Thankyou Dave indeed to replace a seal. I've been to carbartic they where very helpful. Watching this I'm more confident to do it knowing what I'm looking at. Cheers Franzesca 😁
Good overview Dave, I have the older version with the straight cutters that I upgraded to this cutter head and agree wholeheartedly with you the output is "awesome". Thanks, enjoy
I have an older version of that machine(Sherwood "Timbeconned" not CT) with the standard cutter head had it for about 10yrs and boy do I wish I had a spiral cutter head... absolute PITA to set the blades for a nice unscalloped cut. I recommend throwing the supplied blade set jig as its a waste of time once you have sharpened the blades... havent come across a shapening service that can keep the blades perfectly flat along the cutting edge. I made a jig that straddles each side of the blade that has a dial indicator so I can manipulate the blades(by bending them using the jibs and jack screws)to within .01~.05mm which is tricky because as you tighten the jib screws the cutter head distorts!
David, thank you! I bought a PM15HH about 3 years ago and like an idiot, didn't read the manual and didn't even consider changing the oil! The Carbatec sure looks a lot like the Powermatic! Some good advise, when you pay $3300 for a machine, you may want to maintain it!
This style of planer has been made by so many different brands over the years. All basically the same. I just picked up a Buffalo that other than paint and in and out feed tables looks identical. Mine has in/out rollers. I'll probably replace them at some point. Grizzly and others make this one identical too. So tons of parts out there for them. Mine is from the late 80s early 90s. And is a 2 hp 120/220 motor. Fired up and runs good. Oh I don't have the helical head yet but one of these days I will upgrade it.
I've used a great many types of thicknesser over the year's and I remember when a firm called Grizzly first started importing them from Taiwan to America. It was easily the worst machine I have ever used. Noisy, never fed well or thickenessed evenly and it was impossible to remedy its short comings. The 20 inch version is no better. The newer ones with the sectional head may have eleviated the problems by reducing the cutting pressure and noise but if a hobby guy asked for my advice I would say get a Makita bench top unless you really need to mill big thick long board's. The trouble with this design is that it uses one motor to drive the cutterhead and feed, so if you start milling big stuff it will run out of power. The gear box has two speed's as I remember. The drive belts are long and tend to slap and slip. Over time the four post lift screws tend to go out of adjustment and that's when it becomes a nightmare to use. The dust gets in and causes uneven wear. In short it's a badly designed machine but cheap to make.
A much easier way to do the gearbox oil is to fill from the bottom. Drain it just as you have done. Then get one of the small pump dispensers with a flexible hose an a threaded insert that matches the drain hole. Pump in your 400ml or until it overflows out the top hole. Then screw in the top screw. Next unscrew the hose & cover with your thumb. Then screw in the drain plug. The oil is very viscous and with the top screw in place it will not leak out. This is the same method as for an outboard gearbox and it works great.
Thanks for the input Daniel. My thoughts are that your method requires some dedicated equipment that the majority of people will not have readily available. Then again, they may, lol.
True, but those handy pumps only cost about $15 down at BCF or your local boat dealer. They screw onto a normal 1l oil bottle cap. goo.gl/images/5nZXMH
My infeed roller gouges my timber, can you reduce the downward pressure on the timber? Can you do a video on correct adjustment or setup of infeed and exit rollers. 😉
I have been thinking about that Matthew but for the moment I can measure and also I know how much the machine is capable of per pass. I will see what happens. Thanks for the comment!
G'day Dave, I am interested in your thoughts and some guidance. I am in the process of finally building my wood workshop. I was set on the Jet 12" combo planer/thicknesser with the spiral cutter head. Most of the feedback I have received is that it's better to go with seperate machines. Given the price point the alternative is to go with the combination you have opted for. Final piece of information this will be a hobby but my intention is for the hobby to be financially self sustaining in due course. The shed I am building which will be soley devoted to wood working is 8x7m which is a reasonable sized space but not massive. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
good video Dave. qstn: do you rotate the cutters on a time-defined basis, eg after every 30 hours, or is there a way of judging when they have started to blunt, as distinct from chipped?
Good question Chris. I watch for signs of a fury cut or maybe a bit of tear out. Generally it is a good idea to rotate all 74 cutters at the same time. Thanks for watching!
Hi David, just wondering how the thicknesses holds up against real aus hardwoods, i've got a dewalt DW735 and it really struggles, thinking of upgrading to this model, cheers.
It is pretty good. The knives are all % tungsten and have 4 edges per knife. The latest model has all the blades at a slight angle so they all slice rather than chop. I have run a fair bit of spotted gum through mine and it performed well. The 20 inch 3 phase is the best and keeps the power up to the cutter head. Of course you need a 3 phase supply to run it. The model I have is 15 amp and I find I have to watch the cut depth on full 15 inch wide slabs.
No. The powermatic has the other style of helical head I mention in the video. A lot of the machines look very similar but there are a few differences.
Hi Nathan. Sorry to have upset you re metric and imperial. This machine was built for the American market simply because there are so many American woodworkers in the world. In Australia we have been riding on the back of these machines so their manuals and names are imperial, not metric. The advantage is we get these machines relatively cheaper in comparison to how much they were 10 to 20 years ago. I have no idea of your age, but I am in my 60's and metric was somerhing introduced in the 70's so I was taught both measurement systems at school. Pretty fortunate really as it allows me to tollerate other people who I share this planet with.
Thankyou Dave indeed to replace a seal. I've been to carbartic they where very helpful. Watching this I'm more confident to do it knowing what I'm looking at. Cheers Franzesca 😁
Glad it helped
Thanks for the video. Very informative for anyone with that machine. I'd love to see one on the pros and cons of the combination machine.
Good overview Dave, I have the older version with the straight cutters that I upgraded to this cutter head and agree wholeheartedly with you the output is "awesome". Thanks, enjoy
good choice for solo work Dave! safe and productive is a win win 👍
I'm living the dream!
+David Stanton until the camera tripod goes for walks on you.. hehe thats a classic one to watch every now and then for S and G!
I have an older version of that machine(Sherwood "Timbeconned" not CT) with the standard cutter head had it for about 10yrs and boy do I wish I had a spiral cutter head... absolute PITA to set the blades for a nice unscalloped cut. I recommend throwing the supplied blade set jig as its a waste of time once you have sharpened the blades... havent come across a shapening service that can keep the blades perfectly flat along the cutting edge.
I made a jig that straddles each side of the blade that has a dial indicator so I can manipulate the blades(by bending them using the jibs and jack screws)to within .01~.05mm which is tricky because as you tighten the jib screws the cutter head distorts!
The helical heads are a joy.
Very informative Dave, useful video - thanks
Thanks Scumbags, hope it addresses all the questions anyone may have!
David, thank you! I bought a PM15HH about 3 years ago and like an idiot, didn't read the manual and didn't even consider changing the oil!
The Carbatec sure looks a lot like the Powermatic!
Some good advise, when you pay $3300 for a machine, you may want to maintain it!
Yep, maintenance is the key Terry!
This style of planer has been made by so many different brands over the years. All basically the same. I just picked up a Buffalo that other than paint and in and out feed tables looks identical. Mine has in/out rollers. I'll probably replace them at some point. Grizzly and others make this one identical too. So tons of parts out there for them. Mine is from the late 80s early 90s. And is a 2 hp 120/220 motor. Fired up and runs good. Oh I don't have the helical head yet but one of these days I will upgrade it.
Also thanks for the info
No problem!
I've used a great many types of thicknesser over the year's and I remember when a firm called Grizzly first started importing them from Taiwan to America.
It was easily the worst machine I have ever used. Noisy, never fed well or thickenessed evenly and it was impossible to remedy its short comings. The 20 inch version is no better. The newer ones with the sectional head may have eleviated the problems by reducing the cutting pressure and noise but if a hobby guy asked for my advice I would say get a Makita bench top unless you really need to mill big thick long board's.
The trouble with this design is that it uses one motor to drive the cutterhead and feed, so if you start milling big stuff it will run out of power. The gear box has two speed's as I remember. The drive belts are long and tend to slap and slip. Over time the four post lift screws tend to go out of adjustment and that's when it becomes a nightmare to use.
The dust gets in and causes uneven wear.
In short it's a badly designed machine but cheap to make.
This is the exact same one used in the woodwork room at my high school
Did you like it ?
Yes it's super good we're making a dartboard cabinet
Great info David.
Thanks for watching Ian!
A much easier way to do the gearbox oil is to fill from the bottom. Drain it just as you have done. Then get one of the small pump dispensers with a flexible hose an a threaded insert that matches the drain hole. Pump in your 400ml or until it overflows out the top hole. Then screw in the top screw. Next unscrew the hose & cover with your thumb. Then screw in the drain plug. The oil is very viscous and with the top screw in place it will not leak out. This is the same method as for an outboard gearbox and it works great.
Thanks for the input Daniel. My thoughts are that your method requires some dedicated equipment that the majority of people will not have readily available. Then again, they may, lol.
True, but those handy pumps only cost about $15 down at BCF or your local boat dealer. They screw onto a normal 1l oil bottle cap. goo.gl/images/5nZXMH
Mine is a CTJ - 508
My infeed roller gouges my timber, can you reduce the downward pressure on the timber? Can you do a video on correct adjustment or setup of infeed and exit rollers. 😉
I will look into it for you.
Any luck with the roller adjustment video mate?
Hi Dave. Same problem here. What is the fix ? Thx!
nice machine!
Thanks Lion! It is a very nice machine.
Hey mate thank you so much for the video. What oil do I use to replace the oil in the gearbox? Cheers
Is motor oil fine?
I tell you in the video what oil to use. Did you skip through it quickly?
@@DavidStanton sorry I had forgot it at the end of vid and didn’t have time then to rewatch. Will have a look soo . Thanks mate
Always informative! Have you considered adding a digital depth gauge or do you find the 'iron sights' good enough?
I have been thinking about that Matthew but for the moment I can measure and also I know how much the machine is capable of per pass. I will see what happens. Thanks for the comment!
G'day Dave, I am interested in your thoughts and some guidance. I am in the process of finally building my wood workshop. I was set on the Jet 12" combo planer/thicknesser with the spiral cutter head. Most of the feedback I have received is that it's better to go with seperate machines. Given the price point the alternative is to go with the combination you have opted for. Final piece of information this will be a hobby but my intention is for the hobby to be financially self sustaining in due course. The shed I am building which will be soley devoted to wood working is 8x7m which is a reasonable sized space but not massive. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Ross. Given the space you will have, going with the two separate machines is my preference.
I work on this lil fellas grandfather I could plane your planer
Have you added a digital gauge to this machine? If so, what brand did you choose?
Hi Sidney. No digital height gauge.
good video Dave. qstn: do you rotate the cutters on a time-defined basis, eg after every 30 hours, or is there a way of judging when they have started to blunt, as distinct from chipped?
Good question Chris. I watch for signs of a fury cut or maybe a bit of tear out. Generally it is a good idea to rotate all 74 cutters at the same time. Thanks for watching!
thanks Dave. I've gone for the Powermatic 15" and am waiting delivery. Maybe compare notes down the track?
Regards.
Hi David, just wondering how the thicknesses holds up against real aus hardwoods, i've got a dewalt DW735 and it really struggles, thinking of upgrading to this model, cheers.
It is pretty good. The knives are all % tungsten and have 4 edges per knife. The latest model has all the blades at a slight angle so they all slice rather than chop. I have run a fair bit of spotted gum through mine and it performed well. The 20 inch 3 phase is the best and keeps the power up to the cutter head. Of course you need a 3 phase supply to run it. The model I have is 15 amp and I find I have to watch the cut depth on full 15 inch wide slabs.
I wonder if this is the same machine as the Powermatic?
No. The powermatic has the other style of helical head I mention in the video. A lot of the machines look very similar but there are a few differences.
Same as a Grizzly 15" inch.
Thumb down for the imperial references. Why pander to the US system, time to educate them in metric.
Hi Nathan. Sorry to have upset you re metric and imperial. This machine was built for the American market simply because there are so many American woodworkers in the world. In Australia we have been riding on the back of these machines so their manuals and names are imperial, not metric. The advantage is we get these machines relatively cheaper in comparison to how much they were 10 to 20 years ago. I have no idea of your age, but I am in my 60's and metric was somerhing introduced in the 70's so I was taught both measurement systems at school. Pretty fortunate really as it allows me to tollerate other people who I share this planet with.