I can't understand why people start by assuming that the insulation has to be on the inside when floor space is so precious. Easier to clad the outside and incorporate any type of insulation under that cladding unless the container corrugation is required as the aesthetic which is rare. Most videos just start assuming it has to be inside!
Spraying closed cell insulation on the inside faces is a simple method of achieving the R value. But, you are correct, that putting the insulation on the outside is a good option to consider. Rain screen systems use exactly that concept. Besides the advantage of giving more usable area inside the container, having the insulation on the outside of the faces puts the thermal barrier also outside the building that will help prevent condensation from being inside the building.
Well said. I never understood creating a 2 by 4 frame and building the same wall on the inside with insulation. What’s the point of a container? Space is the most precious and the whole point is to use the steel structure as the envelope. Not building another building on the interior. Insulation needs to be on the exterior which will prevent condensation issues. And I am not a fan of closed cell spray foam as it is flammable. An enclosed box surrounded by flammable materials doesn’t sound safe.
Thank you for the compliment. Insofast is a great product. Just be sure to use their recommended adhesive. Check out a video I did about using Insofast on the outside surface and why it works so well at ruclips.net/video/Az91IZGJGys/видео.html. If you like this then be sure to sign up for the free seminar "6 Step Formula to Design and Build Your Own Shipping Container Home" at 7af4-larry.systeme.io/db50e42f .
I'm going to be building a mushroom grow op using a shipping container and just wondering about maybe insulating the outside walls with spray foam and putting some sort of siding over top of the insulation.
I found this article about Elon Musk's brother using shipping containers as a farm too. I have not read it, so if there is anything controversial in the article, please dont think I have an opinion about it yet, www.businessinsider.com/kimbal-musk-shipping-container-farms-new-york-city-2016-12#yes-i-have-the-ability-to-make-money-but-yes-i-also-have-the-ability-to-change-the-world-he-says-11 Some people use rockwool insulation on the outside of the building envelope as part of a rainscreen system. Here is an article that talks about that: www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/urban-rustic-exterior-insulation-and-a-rainscreen I know you said exterior insulation, but let me share this thought too...Spray foam on the inside of the building might off-gas into your crop if it is not ventilated and covered correctly. With that said, closed cell spray foam is usually the preferred insulation for inside of the building because it provide a great amount of R-value for its thickness. Here is an article that says it is ok to have spray foam on the exterior. I would think that it would need to be a closed cell and not an open cell spray foam for exterior surfaces. insealators.com/residential/closed-cell-vs-open-cell-which-one-is-best-for-me/#:~:text=Since%20closed%20cell%20foam%20can,onto%20the%20exterior%20of%20buildings.
Metal is such a good heat conductor, if you want something to keep the heat/cold out maybe it is better to just build stuff from wood. Like a regular shed and insulate it the regular way.
The material that is used to build a building is based on preferences, budget, available materials, skills, ... With that said, you are right. Metal does conduct energy more than wooden studs between air gaps. Building with shipping containers is not an end all method. It has its pros and cons. Shipping containers can be used to build buildings with its own advantages. Such as availability along coastal areas, fulfilling people's desire to reuse items that were once not fabricated for building instead of leaving fallow to rust away (adaptive reuse), among other reasons that others may have.
Fascinating. Is it possible to combing internal (spray-on) and external (possibly fiberglass/rock wool) insulations to maximize effect and minimize cost? Thanks for all the useful information.
I just found this video, but I never see anyone mentioning that shipping containers can be found with insulation already. Stainless steel interior, exterior, and 2.5 inch foam in floor, walls, ceiling. Reefer containers. Raised aluminum floor makes ideal channels to run electrical conduit, and pex water lines through the floor, could do sub floor heating if you want, or keep it simple and just lay some plywood subfloor over the raised aluminum T channel floor, and then put your finish floor on top. 92 inches wide interior in a high cube reefer.
Reefers have their advantages. They also have some draw backs. Check out my article on my blog that points some of them out at liveinacontainer.com/what-types-of-shipping-containers-are-best-for-homes/ thank you for your comments.
I have seen their videos. But, I haven't seen the product in person....yet. It appears to be a very well thought out system with interlocking panels and raceways for electric conduits already designed into them. They report that the R-Value is 8.5. In the NE area of the USA I currently am in, the required R-Value for walls is much higher than that. So, I would need to add insulation to the wall design if I used their product. Another minor concern is the thermal bridging that exists between the panels. If I installed an additional layer of continuous insulation on the outside of the building, I could achieve the added R-Value needed and also eliminate the concern about thermal bridging between these panels. Does this system seem to be a one you would use?
Thanks for the comment. I will put together a video with the rankings. In the meantime, I have already listed, ranked, and shared the pros and cons of all sorts of insulation that can be used for shipping container buildings at: liveinacontainer.com/what-is-the-best-way-to-insulate-a-shipping-container-home/
I am in zone 2 USA. in the summer it is hot and humid. Last week the "feels like" temperature was 153. Pressure treated wood on vertical 4x4 posts not in ground contact start to turn black in under 3 years. Regular wood if left outdoors in the rain turns black in 3 weeks. I am running a portable air conditioner on the inside to dry the air. not a mini split because those get stolen in this neighborhood. I am getting Polyiso panels 2.5 inches thick on the walls and 3.5 on the ceiling from InsulationDepot for around a dollar a square foot. I will then mount them to the inside walls using canned spray foam, and seal the gaps with spray foam, either in a can or a froth pack. Spray foam would cost more than the shipping container. This way I get R20 on the walls, and R28 on the ceiling. That would be about $8 a square foot with spray foam, instead of the $1 per square foot I am getting with Polyiso.
I am in zone 5. So, your home experience is a lot different than mine and my clients in this area. Thank you so much for sharing how it is in your part of the country. I really appreciate it.
I am finding that closed cell spray on insulation is used in tropical countries too. Tropics have a bit more humidity in the air and more days that are warmer than other climates. When cooling the interior spaces on a hot day, condensation becomes a concern. When closed cell spray on insulation is applied correctly, it does not leave any voids between the insulation and the shipping container walls. So condensation is not trapped in that area. Proper ventilation is an important factor to consider too. Be sure to check with local architects, mechanical engineers, building officials, and contractors to learn from them about what type of insulation they recommend. Then, let me know in this comment area what you find out. Thank you for reaching out.
Thanks for this. Our container will be primarily used for storage (zone 5 northeast AZ). Living space(s) will be eslewwhere on our property. That said I still want some insulation and am likely going with the flat boards I can glue on. Easy, no frame needed. Do you have advice for going this route? such as how to seal the space between boards, etc.? How to seal and potential spots of leakage from exterior before I glue the boards?
I am not fully understanding what you want to do with the flat boards that you can glue. I am familiar with gluing flat board edge to edge (with butt joints) to build interior furniture. But, not sure what you want to do with it on the outside of the building. Lab joints with exterior siding would be much better of a water protector than butt jointed siding.
I am not doing anything on the outside other than enamel to protect from water/rust. On the inside I am going to put up flat 1" 4'x8' panels of insulation. What is a good way to seal them together is what I was trying to ask? Some sort of tape perhaps? @@liveinacontainer6602
How much of a problem is condensation on the interior face of the container if the dew point is reached when water vapor from the interior reaches the metal skin of the container?
Looking into ways to reduce the dew point inside the home with mechanic units that draw moisture from the air it conditions. Also, having the correct amount of insulation and a vapor barrier to prohibit the line of condensation to be inside of the building is key.
In most cases, I would have the exterior walls insulated before framing the inside walls. That way , you can fill as much of the thermal breaks as possible.
@@liveinacontainer6602 thanks. But will 3 inches of closed cell spray-in cause difficulty in a smooth fit when framing? (I hope that makes sense to you)
Well done video, I am a structural engineer and always prefer to obtain siting info and thermal assembly info from architects. I plan to visit your website and see what I can use there. I am in early stages of research for my eventual SC build in Central Florida. Am definitely going with Spray Urethane Foam now since viewing your video. Patrick Huff, P.E.
@@liveinacontainer6602 Well. my first thought was to frame in rigid, PCV 80. Spray insulation 2/3 inches. I still think/thought I could glue/nail dry wall to the PCV. I am not sure about cost, but I am considering looking at fake brick or stone panels on some parts of the walls.
Love your video's! We have just been shocked by the Building Inspector who denoted we need r7.5 continuous insulation on external of corrugate and other adjoining locations for our five container hybrid build. 1/3 of siding and all windows, doors, brickmold and flashing have been installed and metal cut for remaining. The GC is now awol and we have been left hanging days before the snow flies. Town will declare 3 season if we don't do it which will make us homeless. After COVID wiped our business out, bank was allowed to refuse mortgage renewal after 23 years of spotless payments due to no financials for two years. Had to sell and rebuild from proceeds and was conned by a company and person who is in the container market. This is all potentially devastating. We have a national housing crisis in Canada for many reasons. This is one example. More to the point. We are looking at specialized product like InSoFast CX 44 and regular rigid board. Affixing to container without punching holes is important. Entire internal is spray foamed as are external joins and junctions (except for carport storage contain which is partially done to cover off mudroom). Any advise. Your sure know what you are doing.
I am so sorry for the trouble you been through. Building anything, especially our primary residence, is always stressful and you have had your share of challenges. I made a series of videos about insulation. Please check them out out at the following play list: ruclips.net/p/PLrl5-w_7fqcmqYbQank-jBrh8OYT20zGL Be sure to protect the insulation from the sun and other elements by installing a "rain screen" in front of it while allowing the water to escape from behind the rain screen. I have a video that describes a rain screen at ruclips.net/video/DwiCOb2c3Ig/видео.html. There is one video that is specifically about InSoFast insulation being put on the outside. The video that is about using InSoFast insulation. It can be found in the play list. Here is the link to that particular video: ruclips.net/video/Az91IZGJGys/видео.html May I ask a favor from you? I am thinking about putting together a free online course that covers the basics that people need to know before designing and building their own shipping container building. What do you know now that you wish you knew before you began the journey of building your shipping container home? Here's my email address. It would be so appreciated to hear back from you. Email: liveinacontainer@gmail.com Larry
Did you get email I sent with attachments of the National Comparative Analysis on Minimum Square Footage Bylaws and building Material Definitions I did with UOIT in Canada?@@liveinacontainer6602
Interesting idea. Aircrete would add to the insulation to the home. It can become brittle and crack. Shipping containers do move a bit with lateral forces, so it would need to be installed so that compression would not damage the surfaces. There are probably other considerations about using Aircrete that I am not thinking about right now too.
Closed cell doesn't breath its better for cold weather not humid and hot conditions such as Florida. Closed or open cell also smells horrible for months afterward after being sprayed. I don't see anything about barrier aluminum rolled foam 5M insulation made for metal buildings.
That is an option that will be discussed in future videos. For a preview, there is already a system that provides the insulation on the outside. It is used with rain screens. Having insulation on the outside pushes the contact of the cold and hot environments to the outside of the container. That's a good thing when mitigating the condensation that results at that contact point. Scroll down to "Rigid Foam Board for Insulation" and click on the hyperlink "rainscreen" at liveinacontainer.com/what-is-the-best-way-to-insulate-a-shipping-container-home/ for a little introduction to this system. Thank you for your comment.
What bothers me so much is these charts with numbers. It is stupid. We should have same insulation in very hot as very cold areas. My air cooling bill is ridiculous due to lack of insulation. LA area can and has reached 123 degrees F 55.5 C
Thank you for sharing the video. When installing anything, it must be done to the manufacturer's recommendations. And, be sure that the product, along with the installer, is of the best and proven quality.
Just build a "hot wire foam cutter" and you can cut pieces better than the pieces InSoFast sells. If you can't build a "hot wire foam cutter" then you can't build a house, so problem solved ;) You can insulate your container 12 times cheaper that way and much better and with EPS s80 or higher (closed cellfoam) ;) Bit strange there is no vids on YT on that thang??? Where are all handy men!? :)
Your channel is so amazing please don't give up
Thank you.
I can't understand why people start by assuming that the insulation has to be on the inside when floor space is so precious. Easier to clad the outside and incorporate any type of insulation under that cladding unless the container corrugation is required as the aesthetic which is rare. Most videos just start assuming it has to be inside!
Spraying closed cell insulation on the inside faces is a simple method of achieving the R value. But, you are correct, that putting the insulation on the outside is a good option to consider. Rain screen systems use exactly that concept. Besides the advantage of giving more usable area inside the container, having the insulation on the outside of the faces puts the thermal barrier also outside the building that will help prevent condensation from being inside the building.
@@liveinacontainer6602 Only a good option if you are installing protection from the elements as well as insects and rodents.
@@liveinacontainer6602 Is roadway width a concern?
Agreed. My 20’ is for food storage
Well said. I never understood creating a 2 by 4 frame and building the same wall on the inside with insulation. What’s the point of a container? Space is the most precious and the whole point is to use the steel structure as the envelope. Not building another building on the interior. Insulation needs to be on the exterior which will prevent condensation issues. And I am not a fan of closed cell spray foam as it is flammable. An enclosed box surrounded by flammable materials doesn’t sound safe.
Great content! I appreciate you.
What do you think about Insofast?
Thank you for the compliment.
Insofast is a great product. Just be sure to use their recommended adhesive. Check out a video I did about using Insofast on the outside surface and why it works so well at ruclips.net/video/Az91IZGJGys/видео.html.
If you like this then be sure to sign up for the free seminar "6 Step Formula to Design and Build Your Own Shipping Container Home" at 7af4-larry.systeme.io/db50e42f .
I'm going to be building a mushroom grow op using a shipping container and just wondering about maybe insulating the outside walls with spray foam and putting some sort of siding over top of the insulation.
I found this article about Elon Musk's brother using shipping containers as a farm too. I have not read it, so if there is anything controversial in the article, please dont think I have an opinion about it yet, www.businessinsider.com/kimbal-musk-shipping-container-farms-new-york-city-2016-12#yes-i-have-the-ability-to-make-money-but-yes-i-also-have-the-ability-to-change-the-world-he-says-11
Some people use rockwool insulation on the outside of the building envelope as part of a rainscreen system. Here is an article that talks about that: www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/urban-rustic-exterior-insulation-and-a-rainscreen
I know you said exterior insulation, but let me share this thought too...Spray foam on the inside of the building might off-gas into your crop if it is not ventilated and covered correctly. With that said, closed cell spray foam is usually the preferred insulation for inside of the building because it provide a great amount of R-value for its thickness.
Here is an article that says it is ok to have spray foam on the exterior. I would think that it would need to be a closed cell and not an open cell spray foam for exterior surfaces. insealators.com/residential/closed-cell-vs-open-cell-which-one-is-best-for-me/#:~:text=Since%20closed%20cell%20foam%20can,onto%20the%20exterior%20of%20buildings.
Metal is such a good heat conductor, if you want something to keep the heat/cold out maybe it is better to just build stuff from wood. Like a regular shed and insulate it the regular way.
The material that is used to build a building is based on preferences, budget, available materials, skills, ... With that said, you are right. Metal does conduct energy more than wooden studs between air gaps. Building with shipping containers is not an end all method. It has its pros and cons.
Shipping containers can be used to build buildings with its own advantages. Such as availability along coastal areas, fulfilling people's desire to reuse items that were once not fabricated for building instead of leaving fallow to rust away (adaptive reuse), among other reasons that others may have.
I already have a shipping container that came with our new house. I would like to use it.
Fascinating. Is it possible to combing internal (spray-on) and external (possibly fiberglass/rock wool) insulations to maximize effect and minimize cost? Thanks for all the useful information.
Yes, for most cases, you can combine anytime of insulation that is acceptable by code to achieve the R-value desired.
this is one part i will not cheap out. i want to be comfortable and in the long run, it will be worth it.
Yes, I agree.
I just found this video, but I never see anyone mentioning that shipping containers can be found with insulation already. Stainless steel interior, exterior, and 2.5 inch foam in floor, walls, ceiling. Reefer containers. Raised aluminum floor makes ideal channels to run electrical conduit, and pex water lines through the floor, could do sub floor heating if you want, or keep it simple and just lay some plywood subfloor over the raised aluminum T channel floor, and then put your finish floor on top. 92 inches wide interior in a high cube reefer.
Reefers have their advantages. They also have some draw backs. Check out my article on my blog that points some of them out at liveinacontainer.com/what-types-of-shipping-containers-are-best-for-homes/ thank you for your comments.
Have you looked at the InSoFast system for shipping containers?
I have seen their videos. But, I haven't seen the product in person....yet. It appears to be a very well thought out system with interlocking panels and raceways for electric conduits already designed into them. They report that the R-Value is 8.5. In the NE area of the USA I currently am in, the required R-Value for walls is much higher than that. So, I would need to add insulation to the wall design if I used their product. Another minor concern is the thermal bridging that exists between the panels. If I installed an additional layer of continuous insulation on the outside of the building, I could achieve the added R-Value needed and also eliminate the concern about thermal bridging between these panels. Does this system seem to be a one you would use?
This is helpful but it would have been far more so if you ranked the types of insulation, with their respective pros/cons.
Thanks for the comment. I will put together a video with the rankings. In the meantime, I have already listed, ranked, and shared the pros and cons of all sorts of insulation that can be used for shipping container buildings at: liveinacontainer.com/what-is-the-best-way-to-insulate-a-shipping-container-home/
I am in zone 2 USA. in the summer it is hot and humid. Last week the "feels like" temperature was 153. Pressure treated wood on vertical 4x4 posts not in ground contact start to turn black in under 3 years. Regular wood if left outdoors in the rain turns black in 3 weeks.
I am running a portable air conditioner on the inside to dry the air. not a mini split because those get stolen in this neighborhood.
I am getting Polyiso panels 2.5 inches thick on the walls and 3.5 on the ceiling from InsulationDepot for around a dollar a square foot. I will then mount them to the inside walls using canned spray foam, and seal the gaps with spray foam, either in a can or a froth pack.
Spray foam would cost more than the shipping container. This way I get R20 on the walls, and R28 on the ceiling. That would be about $8 a square foot with spray foam, instead of the $1 per square foot I am getting with Polyiso.
I am in zone 5. So, your home experience is a lot different than mine and my clients in this area. Thank you so much for sharing how it is in your part of the country. I really appreciate it.
Very informative video. Thank you for the information!
Thanks for watching!
For tropical countries...what type of insulations can be used in shipping containers?
I am finding that closed cell spray on insulation is used in tropical countries too. Tropics have a bit more humidity in the air and more days that are warmer than other climates. When cooling the interior spaces on a hot day, condensation becomes a concern. When closed cell spray on insulation is applied correctly, it does not leave any voids between the insulation and the shipping container walls. So condensation is not trapped in that area. Proper ventilation is an important factor to consider too. Be sure to check with local architects, mechanical engineers, building officials, and contractors to learn from them about what type of insulation they recommend. Then, let me know in this comment area what you find out. Thank you for reaching out.
In Kenya we go with EPS foam 2 inches thick (walls) and gypsum insulation (ceiling). Some container houses have timber cladding on the outside.
Thanks for this. Our container will be primarily used for storage (zone 5 northeast AZ). Living space(s) will be eslewwhere on our property. That said I still want some insulation and am likely going with the flat boards I can glue on. Easy, no frame needed. Do you have advice for going this route? such as how to seal the space between boards, etc.? How to seal and potential spots of leakage from exterior before I glue the boards?
I am not fully understanding what you want to do with the flat boards that you can glue. I am familiar with gluing flat board edge to edge (with butt joints) to build interior furniture. But, not sure what you want to do with it on the outside of the building. Lab joints with exterior siding would be much better of a water protector than butt jointed siding.
I am not doing anything on the outside other than enamel to protect from water/rust. On the inside I am going to put up flat 1" 4'x8' panels of insulation. What is a good way to seal them together is what I was trying to ask? Some sort of tape perhaps? @@liveinacontainer6602
How much of a problem is condensation on the interior face of the container if the dew point is reached when water vapor from the interior reaches the metal skin of the container?
Looking into ways to reduce the dew point inside the home with mechanic units that draw moisture from the air it conditions. Also, having the correct amount of insulation and a vapor barrier to prohibit the line of condensation to be inside of the building is key.
Thank you for this information!!
Any time!
Do you suggest framing after blown in insulation, or before?
In most cases, I would have the exterior walls insulated before framing the inside walls. That way , you can fill as much of the thermal breaks as possible.
@@liveinacontainer6602 thanks. But will 3 inches of closed cell spray-in cause difficulty in a smooth fit when framing? (I hope that makes sense to you)
Well done video, I am a structural engineer and always prefer to obtain siting info and thermal assembly info from architects. I plan to visit your website and see what I can use there. I am in early stages of research for my eventual SC build in Central Florida. Am definitely going with Spray Urethane Foam now since viewing your video. Patrick Huff, P.E.
Thank you,, Patrick. Are there other topics you would like me to cover?
Can you use PVC piping for framing the interior or exterior of container home?
PVC piping is round. How will you attach gypsum wallboard or any other panel upon it to create flat walls? Or, maybe, you don't want flat walls?
@@liveinacontainer6602 Well. my first thought was to frame in rigid, PCV 80. Spray insulation 2/3 inches. I still think/thought I could glue/nail dry wall to the PCV. I am not sure about cost, but I am considering looking at fake brick or stone panels on some parts of the walls.
Excellent video thanks for the information
Thank you. Let me know if you would like me to cover any other topics.
Love your video's! We have just been shocked by the Building Inspector who denoted we need r7.5 continuous insulation on external of corrugate and other adjoining locations for our five container hybrid build. 1/3 of siding and all windows, doors, brickmold and flashing have been installed and metal cut for remaining. The GC is now awol and we have been left hanging days before the snow flies. Town will declare 3 season if we don't do it which will make us homeless. After COVID wiped our business out, bank was allowed to refuse mortgage renewal after 23 years of spotless payments due to no financials for two years. Had to sell and rebuild from proceeds and was conned by a company and person who is in the container market. This is all potentially devastating. We have a national housing crisis in Canada for many reasons. This is one example.
More to the point. We are looking at specialized product like InSoFast CX 44 and regular rigid board. Affixing to container without punching holes is important. Entire internal is spray foamed as are external joins and junctions (except for carport storage contain which is partially done to cover off mudroom). Any advise. Your sure know what you are doing.
I am so sorry for the trouble you been through. Building anything, especially our primary residence, is always stressful and you have had your share of challenges.
I made a series of videos about insulation. Please check them out out at the following play list:
ruclips.net/p/PLrl5-w_7fqcmqYbQank-jBrh8OYT20zGL
Be sure to protect the insulation from the sun and other elements by installing a "rain screen" in front of it while allowing the water to escape from behind the rain screen. I have a video that describes a rain screen at ruclips.net/video/DwiCOb2c3Ig/видео.html.
There is one video that is specifically about InSoFast insulation being put on the outside. The video that is about using InSoFast insulation. It can be found in the play list. Here is the link to that particular video:
ruclips.net/video/Az91IZGJGys/видео.html
May I ask a favor from you?
I am thinking about putting together a free online course that covers the basics that people need to know before designing and building their own shipping container building. What do you know now that you wish you knew before you began the journey of building your shipping container home? Here's my email address. It would be so appreciated to hear back from you. Email: liveinacontainer@gmail.com
Larry
Absolutely! Give me a couple of days to collect my thoughts. @@liveinacontainer6602
Did you get email I sent with attachments of the National Comparative Analysis on Minimum Square Footage Bylaws and building Material Definitions I did with UOIT in Canada?@@liveinacontainer6602
I've come to the conclusion on everything that you have stated.
Glad you found the same to be true. Thank you for your comment.
What if you covered the outside of the shipping container with aircrete?
Interesting idea. Aircrete would add to the insulation to the home. It can become brittle and crack. Shipping containers do move a bit with lateral forces, so it would need to be installed so that compression would not damage the surfaces. There are probably other considerations about using Aircrete that I am not thinking about right now too.
Spoiler alert, TLDR: Closed Cell Spray Foam is the video’s Theme.
DIY is possible with purchasable kits 👍🏽
TLDR? Would it be better if the videos were shorter and with a smaller chuck of content?
@@liveinacontainer6602 no! I like the explanation in the video
Closed cell doesn't breath its better for cold weather not humid and hot conditions such as Florida. Closed or open cell also smells horrible for months afterward after being sprayed. I don't see anything about barrier aluminum rolled foam 5M insulation made for metal buildings.
Everything has its pros and cons. Have you had a good experience using aluminum rolled foam 5M insulation?
Why no insulate the outside?
That is an option that will be discussed in future videos. For a preview, there is already a system that provides the insulation on the outside. It is used with rain screens. Having insulation on the outside pushes the contact of the cold and hot environments to the outside of the container. That's a good thing when mitigating the condensation that results at that contact point. Scroll down to "Rigid Foam Board for Insulation" and click on the hyperlink "rainscreen" at liveinacontainer.com/what-is-the-best-way-to-insulate-a-shipping-container-home/ for a little introduction to this system. Thank you for your comment.
Then it's outsulation.
What bothers me so much is these charts with numbers. It is stupid. We should have same insulation in very hot as very cold areas. My air cooling bill is ridiculous due to lack of insulation. LA area can and has reached 123 degrees F 55.5 C
Yeah, Jim. Each climate zone behaves differently. But, as you pointed out, they all need their own type of insulation to keep the heat in or out.
1000 cans of Great Stuff and I can do it cleanly myself! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good for you.
Before sprayfoam insulation watch this video:
ruclips.net/video/0Hh5MYv7lWc/видео.html
Thank you for sharing the video. When installing anything, it must be done to the manufacturer's recommendations. And, be sure that the product, along with the installer, is of the best and proven quality.
@@liveinacontainer6602👍🏻✌🏻🌞
3" of sprayfoam will cost more than the container.
Thank you for your input.
Just build a "hot wire foam cutter" and you can cut pieces better than the pieces InSoFast sells.
If you can't build a "hot wire foam cutter" then you can't build a house, so problem solved ;) You can insulate your container 12 times cheaper that way and much better and with EPS s80 or higher (closed cellfoam) ;)
Bit strange there is no vids on YT on that thang??? Where are all handy men!? :)
That's showing great initiative and ingenuity. Thank you for the comments.
Are you saying spray on or spray own??
Yea, my Texas drawl got in the way of me pronouncing it correctly. Sorry.
Styroaircrete. Will fill all the gaps, its very cheap, and it's fire proof.
Thank you for the information. I will check it out.