Your comments on model experience and always doing things the same. Its very rare to hear that but it is SO true! I always try something new with my builds, but it was great to hear it from someone such as yourself!
Very happy to hear that and yes, I can't stand the idea of always doing the same things over and over! Of course, if something works very well I will use it again but I want to develop more and more techniques to add to my big book of magic spells! :D
Man I'm glad I sat through that. Super entertaining from start to finish. Even the wife had a laugh at times listening in while she sat sorting emails. The phrase "That's what she said!" popped up more than once!
haha, awesome! Even though it's a slog to get through the edit, I really enjoy adding the commentary and had a bunch of good laughs myself. Ok, so that's the format then, plenty of good feedback on this one but I don't think they need to be this long... probably 30 to 40mins max I guess. :)
20-30 min chunks are best for me personally as an hour is a bit more tricky to squeeze in, but you do what the Majority wants and what your comfortable doing.
13:28 you're talking about 'flow state'. That moment when all your attention is simultaneously laser precise on what you're doing, but also almost subconscious and not present. It is very much related to the fabled zen state that meditation gurus aspire to. Japanese calligraphers also practice a similar sort of thing I believe. There's a bunch of interesting commentary on it, TED talks and the like.
I always thought spraying primer was like shooting machine guns from helicopters, so thanks for the confirmation! Another great vid, Lin.K. Keep it up!
Want to start air brushing but cost for start out will eat my budget for the next few months, been hand painting for years. My pal let me use his air brush set up for doing work on a guitar I painted because the graphics I wanted needed to be super thin so I could do my clear without having to put layers and layers of lacquer to get a flat surface to polish and it was great. But his set up cost £400. I do a lot of transformer customising and keep getting rubbing around joints and tabs even after sanding them. My other freind got a cheap set up and I used that and it was a pile of crap ( one if those box portable units). Kept spluttering and loosing pressure on long uses. Just not sure what to do models with no little to no moving parts are ok by hand but lots of moving parts is a problem. Any recommendations for a cheaper setup that will do the,job.
Question: Is the shoulder armor “flap”s rear surface and higher part of the slightly hidden should not need to be primed or painted? Always wondered about paint coverage in the method shown…
Loving your channel, I'm just going thru some of your older videos. I hope you dont mind me asking but where do you get the music for your tutorials and do you have to pay for it? I'm really struggling finding good music for my videos. 😎
Hey Lincoln can I ask what you used to thin the Mr. Color paints for brush painting? I always wondered what the differences of Leveling Thinner and regular Mr. Color Thinner were. Thanks!
Hey I recently got into Ma.K kits with some 1/35 prowlers and got a 1/20 raccoon to step things up. I was wondering if you had any tips for painting the polycap parts? I saw that you used epoxy to replace some of them but I don't have that level of confidence in my sculpting skills. Thanks for all the great videos they're super informative!
When preparing kits for primer, do you find that sanding them beforehand helps the primer adhere? I’ve seen arguments for and against it and am interested on your take on the matter. I understand the logic of sanding before priming but am confused as to why some people recommend sanding the primer before paint too.
I'm following along with your paint steps here as best I can on an Axeknight model. I just finished the Tamiya TS7 racing white spray coats. I pretty much used the entire can. Nice light coats, but I'm thinking I went a little too heavy on the white? I certainly didn't get the impression that you used a whole can of paint!
im curious link, is it necessarry to paint double like that, the mahagony and the racing tamiya? what effect will it get? and what the differences between that and directly apply brush of mrcolor to the kit
Hi Gultor, nice to hear from you again. No, no steps are necessary but of course, I do them for specific reasons and because they help and work. In this case, this is for depth of finish and some speed to getting to the heavy, white ceramic armour look. Hope that answer helps!
Paint on Plastic by Lincoln Wright i actually like what you did and i really like color scheme for ma.k thats why i really want to replicate that, although i actually do the painting for gundam model kit. is it good if i use this technic for gundam? and another question, i start to move to mr.color lacquer too like you but should i use the usual thinner or the leveling thinner like you? my usual problem with brush is everytime i add the second layer the first layer sometimes get chip out. is it because of my thinner or the paint? anyway how to get rid of brush stroke too? cause yours look really nice do i need to sand it down. gosh i ask so much question, thank you so much linc for answering every question here. you are one of youtuber who is closed to your audience and its good!! you are awesome linc!
Gultor Azhar hahaha, thanks 🙏🏼 and yes I understand. Suddenly your brain becomes excited with the idea and you need to know right? I am the same. Some of these techniques are ok for Gunpla but we probably need to change them a little bit for the type of model and scale. But the colours are fine to use, no problem. 😃👍🏼
@@PaintonPlasticbyLincolnWright Thank you sir! I just started using it and I figued as much but a second opinion from an expert helps a lot! You have a great week sir!
Hey Lincoln I always have this issue with Mr. Color where if I try to do a second coat,the 1st coat reactivates and is removed Do you know how to remedy this? Does it have to do with the thinner I use?
All kinds of brushes, you know how your collection grows over time? Some are good, some drop out quickly. It also depends on the job. In all my newer videos I make it a point to show the brush brand and size, please check them out. :)
Hey, after watching a lot of your vids, I've been interested in trying out lacquer paint, specifically Mr. Color's stuff. With my testing and whatnot, I would accidentally pick up a layer of lacquer paint underneath the one I am currently painting. It can get rather frustrating after seeing some good results from my first few layers. Do you have any tips in preventing that from happening?
Live in the USA? Check out my favourite kits, tools, paints and books amazon.com/shop/paintonplasticbylincolnwright Get Members Only Content! By becoming a Paint on Plastic Brobot Member you support our show to continue producing content on RUclips and you also gain access to members only Patreon exclusive content and swag! patreon.com/paintonplastic
Me too, I started with 40k back in 3rd Edition. Acrylics is probably the #1 paint I am used to, Citadel and Vallejo. After mastering these, I added enamels and then lacquers. Having experience with 4 paint types has been very useful.
![#51 [プラモデル マシーネン 塗装 筆塗り] Ma.k. ラプター 製作記 塗装編１ Maschinen Krieger "RAPTOR" production notes. Painting 1](/img/1.gif)
Your comments on model experience and always doing things the same. Its very rare to hear that but it is SO true! I always try something new with my builds, but it was great to hear it from someone such as yourself!
Very happy to hear that and yes, I can't stand the idea of always doing the same things over and over! Of course, if something works very well I will use it again but I want to develop more and more techniques to add to my big book of magic spells! :D
Lincoln your wisdom about approaching every model differently was surprisingly eye opening
Thanks mate very happy that idea resonates with you.
the Chips and all the weathering is outstanding realistic!
love the figure.
Robert
thanks Robert!!
Paint on Plastic by Lincoln Wright anytime!
Man I'm glad I sat through that. Super entertaining from start to finish. Even the wife had a laugh at times listening in while she sat sorting emails. The phrase "That's what she said!" popped up more than once!
haha, awesome! Even though it's a slog to get through the edit, I really enjoy adding the commentary and had a bunch of good laughs myself. Ok, so that's the format then, plenty of good feedback on this one but I don't think they need to be this long... probably 30 to 40mins max I guess. :)
20-30 min chunks are best for me personally as an hour is a bit more tricky to squeeze in, but you do what the Majority wants and what your comfortable doing.
yep, am thinking that too. 50+ min was tough on rendering time, upload volume, everything. Half my monthly upload limit in one shot, boom!
The work of a master, thanks for the lessons!
My pleasure Gabriel! More in this series coming soon. :)
Excellent video! And your voice is strangely calming! 😁👍
thanks!
Great video. I have a Sea Pig on order and I’ll be using some of your techniques on my build.
13:28 you're talking about 'flow state'. That moment when all your attention is simultaneously laser precise on what you're doing, but also almost subconscious and not present. It is very much related to the fabled zen state that meditation gurus aspire to. Japanese calligraphers also practice a similar sort of thing I believe. There's a bunch of interesting commentary on it, TED talks and the like.
Thanks Paul, that's exactly it!
I always thought spraying primer was like shooting machine guns from helicopters, so thanks for the confirmation! Another great vid, Lin.K. Keep it up!
thanks Sticky! This is an older video from The Vault and I hadn't seen it for many months too. I really did LOL at a few gems in this one :D :D
"I've got videos, so I know stuff" lol... No wonder I don't know anything. I need to make some videos. Great video, thank you. 🤙
Haha 😂 did I really say that in this video? It’s been 4 years and feels like a forever ago...
@@PaintonPlasticbyLincolnWright you did and that's how I knew you were a serious professional who must not be questioned or doubted. 😉
😆😆👏 oh man, that’s even funnier now ‼️ Thank you very much for this, made my day!! 🤗
Want to start air brushing but cost for start out will eat my budget for the next few months, been hand painting for years. My pal let me use his air brush set up for doing work on a guitar I painted because the graphics I wanted needed to be super thin so I could do my clear without having to put layers and layers of lacquer to get a flat surface to polish and it was great.
But his set up cost £400.
I do a lot of transformer customising and keep getting rubbing around joints and tabs even after sanding them.
My other freind got a cheap set up and I used that and it was a pile of crap ( one if those box portable units). Kept spluttering and loosing pressure on long uses.
Just not sure what to do models with no little to no moving parts are ok by hand but lots of moving parts is a problem.
Any recommendations for a cheaper setup that will do the,job.
Question: Is the shoulder armor “flap”s rear surface and higher part of the slightly hidden should not need to be primed or painted? Always wondered about paint coverage in the method shown…
Loving your channel, I'm just going thru some of your older videos. I hope you dont mind me asking but where do you get the music for your tutorials and do you have to pay for it? I'm really struggling finding good music for my videos. 😎
The RUclips Music Library and it's FREE!
Hey Lincoln can I ask what you used to thin the Mr. Color paints for brush painting? I always wondered what the differences of Leveling Thinner and regular Mr. Color Thinner were. Thanks!
Levelling thinner has a retarder added. I think the retarder is pretty much the same as Mr Retarder Mild
"Hamedasteru. I was thinking in Japanese and couldn't remember the English word"
Being bi-lingual must be amazing :)
happens in our family almost everyday. Good at 2 things but not great at either one, has it's funny moments!
Hey I recently got into Ma.K kits with some 1/35 prowlers and got a 1/20 raccoon to step things up. I was wondering if you had any tips for painting the polycap parts? I saw that you used epoxy to replace some of them but I don't have that level of confidence in my sculpting skills. Thanks for all the great videos they're super informative!
Nice, welcome to Ma.K. One of the best ways to treat the polyps is not to actually paint them. Or overpaint with a dusty oil paint for example. ^^
When preparing kits for primer, do you find that sanding them beforehand helps the primer adhere? I’ve seen arguments for and against it and am interested on your take on the matter. I understand the logic of sanding before priming but am confused as to why some people recommend sanding the primer before paint too.
Hi Charbley , no I don't. Easy!
I'm following along with your paint steps here as best I can on an Axeknight model. I just finished the Tamiya TS7 racing white spray coats. I pretty much used the entire can. Nice light coats, but I'm thinking I went a little too heavy on the white? I certainly didn't get the impression that you used a whole can of paint!
Thanks! Correct, so far I have used the same can on 4 or 5 different models and still some left. Have fun!
im curious link, is it necessarry to paint double like that, the mahagony and the racing tamiya? what effect will it get? and what the differences between that and directly apply brush of mrcolor to the kit
Hi Gultor, nice to hear from you again. No, no steps are necessary but of course, I do them for specific reasons and because they help and work. In this case, this is for depth of finish and some speed to getting to the heavy, white ceramic armour look. Hope that answer helps!
Paint on Plastic by Lincoln Wright i actually like what you did and i really like color scheme for ma.k thats why i really want to replicate that, although i actually do the painting for gundam model kit. is it good if i use this technic for gundam? and another question, i start to move to mr.color lacquer too like you but should i use the usual thinner or the leveling thinner like you? my usual problem with brush is everytime i add the second layer the first layer sometimes get chip out. is it because of my thinner or the paint? anyway how to get rid of brush stroke too? cause yours look really nice do i need to sand it down. gosh i ask so much question, thank you so much linc for answering every question here. you are one of youtuber who is closed to your audience and its good!! you are awesome linc!
Gultor Azhar hahaha, thanks 🙏🏼 and yes I understand. Suddenly your brain becomes excited with the idea and you need to know right? I am the same. Some of these techniques are ok for Gunpla but we probably need to change them a little bit for the type of model and scale. But the colours are fine to use, no problem. 😃👍🏼
Lincoln, would Milliput work 4 the weld lines?
Yes it would, rolled nice and thin. :)
@@PaintonPlasticbyLincolnWright Thank you sir! I just started using it and I figued as much but a second opinion from an expert helps a lot! You have a great week sir!
Are these the lacquer paint and are you sending them to a certain point before brushing
Yes these are the same lacquer paints - sometimes I sand, yes but not always. Just paint!
Paint on Plastic by Lincoln Wright Are you thinning the paint as well
Hey Lincoln
I always have this issue with Mr. Color where if I try to do a second coat,the 1st coat reactivates and is removed
Do you know how to remedy this? Does it have to do with the thinner I use?
Hi Danny, no it's about the technique. I have many follow up videos about this now, such as this one www.patreon.com/posts/32108194
Amazing video. Looking forward to checking out the rest of your channel. Sub’d.
Welcome aboard!
What primer do you use ?
This ones was rattle can :)
what kind of brushes do you use?
All kinds of brushes, you know how your collection grows over time? Some are good, some drop out quickly. It also depends on the job. In all my newer videos I make it a point to show the brush brand and size, please check them out. :)
Hey, after watching a lot of your vids, I've been interested in trying out lacquer paint, specifically Mr. Color's stuff. With my testing and whatnot, I would accidentally pick up a layer of lacquer paint underneath the one I am currently painting. It can get rather frustrating after seeing some good results from my first few layers. Do you have any tips in preventing that from happening?
Yes, it's to do with the thickness of the paint and our speed. Please check my blog and search on 'hand brushing" - www.paintonplastic.com
@@PaintonPlasticbyLincolnWright Thank you for the help.
Do you sand your model before painting?? Cause lot of people says sand first??
I imagine it’d be best to sand first so that the paint job will help cover the visible abrasions left by sanding.
Live in the USA? Check out my favourite kits, tools, paints and books amazon.com/shop/paintonplasticbylincolnwright
Get Members Only Content! By becoming a Paint on Plastic Brobot Member you support our show to continue producing content on RUclips and you also gain access to members only Patreon exclusive content and swag! patreon.com/paintonplastic
I assumed Tamiya used the name Racing White, because Honda has copy write on Championship White (Type-R only color)
Even for a million dollars, I'd never switch to lacquer paint from acrylic.
Gosh well ok then, I guess I'll have to close my offer! Just kidding, I also used only acrylics on my latest finish, they are fine paints too. :)
@@PaintonPlasticbyLincolnWright yeah. I'm primarily a 40k painter, so it's what I'm used to.
Me too, I started with 40k back in 3rd Edition. Acrylics is probably the #1 paint I am used to, Citadel and Vallejo. After mastering these, I added enamels and then lacquers. Having experience with 4 paint types has been very useful.
I don't fully understand why the white on mahogany