My Web Forum! dwillz1995.wix... Mopar 6.4 Non-MDS Camshaft: 5037379BC AMS Racing Non-MDS lifters: www.amsracing.... 6.4 Valve Spring Part # (Per RockAuto): 05037382BC
On the mds solenoids if you give them a whack with a dead blow or rubber mallet an then twist as you pull them out they will almost always come out in one piece.
cleaning , painting and making it neat is a great base - way to go . we all hope you washed and cleaned the anti rust treatment before lube and install ?
I been working on hemis 20 years now and can tell you those springs are cheaper new from my dodge dealer, just a heads up for next time. Also MDS does not kill the cam, plenty of stick shifts and HD rams with bad cams and mds did not hurt the early engines also most of the bad lifters in mds engines are non mds lifters. Dodge was about to go bankrupt in 09 and cheaped out on lifters in 2009-2014 that's when the vast majority of bad lifters were. I hate to tell you but those lifters are the cheap Chinese ones on fleabay, lots of companies buy them and resell them and claim they are their own "upgrade" but are even worse than the latest stock lifters. I agree the 6.4 cam for the money by a long shot though comp will make a tiny bit more power. The dodge dealer only sells one spring now for all hemis and it is the 6.4 spring.
Hello! Thank you for the post, I do have a 2007 hemi wit MDS and since I blown the heads I decided to go for a better performance camshaft, just bought a 6.2 camshaft and I am curious about what lifters and springs do I need to use, thank you in advance for the answer!!
Good info and it reads like you know and not just repeating. What are the chances the dealers will have the old ( bankrupt era) lifters if I go buy them? Not that they stock much but they order from somewhere I’m sure. Just had my 5.7 cam and heads done on an older charger pursuit and the builder insisted on using all oem dealer parts head gaskets timing oil and water pump. I used a parts store thermostat to drop it to 180 and two of em failed in a few weeks so I did learn from that 😂
We got 2022 Durango R/T Interceptors and 1 2023 in at work recently. Been studying this whole lifter thing. Aaaand revisiting why is NOBODY building Gen III dirt track engines!!! I want to shove 1 in a DKM Cyclone modified chassis!!
A couple things, 98% of that grease you put on the cam journals wiped off at the front side of the block journal and was hanging in globs there. Also do roller lifters roll good in assembly grease? I do not think so but that is just me talkin. Assembly oil if it's gonna sit for a minute, engine oil if you are gonna prelude pretty quick.
Very informative video, personally I would only use lubriplate on door hinges and window regulators . I was taught to only assemble an engine with something you would pour in your crank case . Still a very good video !
I saw in earlier video that this is a 2013 engine that you added the non vvt 392 cam. I have a 2013 as well but I also have a 2008 non vvt engine. You know if the 392 will go into the older block? I am giving the mds delete plugs and changing the lifters to the ams racing lifters, springs, etc....
No the 2009 and later cams will not work in the pre-eagle block. The front cam journals on both the block and the camshaft are different in a couple ways and are not interchangeable. 2004 did not have MDS. First came out in cars in 05, but only auto transmission. Trucks did not get MDS until 2009 (along with VVT). So pick a cam for your pre-eagle from a truck for plenty of power and low end torque. Or a car if you want a little more top end but not really much difference. A custom grind for a pre-eagle is gonna be your avenue for the best performance
@@marcociccone9745 Doesn't seem like they have it listed on ebay now. Here is their website! Thanks! stankemotorsports.com/Products.cfm?pn=VVTPlug&pID=1
Why would you remove the Magnets? Clean them and put them back. They catch free metal flowing around in the oil flowing through the lifter galley, how could that be a bad thing?
Was it the lifters eating the cam or was the factory cams wearing out prematurely, or combination of both. Im hesitant to use a factory camshaft but i see the argument with cost and gains. But are the factory camshafts a ticking time bomb especially for high horsepower combinations.
@@MoparManiac cool ! have fun with em ! i am currently watching to swap an eagle in my w100 86. hope i will find some info. only found pre eagle swap, but im not too much into valve seat drop... its more a roll the dice than only a used cam n rollers and switch in worst case scenario
@@MoparManiac I don't wanna mess with a carb if i upgrade my engine. if i go carb ill put a 5.9mag. as ive seen a jeep commander 5.7hemi fit mecanicaly without adding too much feature, But, i am still concerned on the valve seat that drops. thats why i am looking into an eagle. i know its complicated, but its a full restore project
5.7 & 6.4 oil pump only has about 12mm of gear width making for lower oil pressure. Hellcat oil pump has a 16mm wide gear and has much better idle oil pressure. Bolts right on too.
I bought one of those cheap borescope cameras and I couldn't get it to work. What did you do to get it to work for you? When it asked for a credit card for ID purposes, I backed out of the setup.
@@MoparManiac of course you have to watch valve clearance on any after market cam. Usually .580 intake and exhaust lift is a safe bet for most larger cams on the 5.7 with stock pistons. You might have to advance or retard the intake center line if valve clearance is an issue.
Is there an advantage to doing away with the VVT? I have the same cam in my 5.7 with 727 in an '71 Demon, and have no idea how to tune the VVT, and my tuner didn't know either. I'm guessing with a solenoid is either all on (retard) or all off (advanced), and have it set to retard at 4000 RPM. My car has 3.23 gears, and could use more bottom end with that cam, so I may change to a 2500 stall converter. Good info in your video!
There is a HP loss by getting rid of the VVT...but what i lose i figure i can make up with the Carb and Cam! How do you like that cam? Does it sound good? Or is it built more for top end?
Im not really after chop. I was after the top end drag race potential with good streetability. I have a carburetor...but if you want to keep your VVT and have more bottom end. Use a 6.4 intake and wire in the Short Runner Valve!
I got a 5.7 hemi I rebuilt the lower end when I bought the truck it spune number 8 bearings had to get a new crank. It still has the hemi tick is that normal?
With the dreaded "Hemi tick", i just like the added insurance. I realize it doesnt need a break in with hydraulic rollers...but until the initial oil pressure gets there. I like to protect my investment. Thanks for the comment!
@@MoparManiac you might consider a modern assembly grease like the Driven brand, it will mix with motor oil as temp gets in it. The lubriplate turns into paste if it sits for any length of time, and i worry about it clogging up the metering and sticking a hyd lifter. Just MHO
@@MoparManiac you may also consider using the hylift johnson lifters, they actually updated the design and it is much stronger than OE, there is much more material around the axle. When I built my own 5.7, I wanted to address the common failures, the other being dropping intake seats. The factory seat on pre '08 heads is too thin and doesnt have enough press fit.
you would be wrong, sir there is plenty to do on the pre-eagle hemi. cam pistons rods crank I mean for god sakes you can buy the stroker kit and make you a 392 and all of that is made easier without VVT because with DVT you have to limit its rotation or you will destroy the engine piston valve clearance is minuscule so it has to be set up properly and should not be done by any Joe blow unless they have extensive knowledge and practice hell if I’m not mistaken, even Steve Brule on engine masters destroyed in early GEN two I think like a 03 to 08. if I remember correctly.
you know you shouldn’t mix different-based oils right especially that old ass oil just make sure after your first fire up and warm up that you drain that oil completely and fill it with a good oil preferably 10/20 or 10/30 and although I know it’s a roller bearing you should still be abusing a break in oil with high, zinc and phosphorus additives specially, on all this cheap steel
@@MoparManiacI’ve been looking for the specs on that cam. Seems to be some different posts. Some say LSA is 114 and some say LSA is 120. Do you know the full specs? Thanks
Bro i hope you washed that cam i got a non mds factory cam and i break cleaned it and it was so nasty with griding shit and had to soap and water and then break ckran again
if you want that cam and lifters to survive, do yourself a favor and change up your viscosity of oil ditch the 0W’s in the 5W‘s go with a 10 W I’ve been using 10W-30 full synthetic for 13 years. I’ve got over 230,000 miles, the engine runs flawlessly no ticks nothing and now let me tell you why I did this when I bought it brand new like all dodgers when you crank them, you hear a tick. The engines are very noisy that then viscosity oil doesn’t leave enough oil film on the top end of the engine, dust, causing premature, where during cold start ups, also people have said that they go bad because of low oil pressure because they sit in spin. Plenty hours idling well that also isn’t an issue for me with the 10W-30 I thought fish and camp out of my truck. It spins hours idling, and again with the Dodge idle time is detrimental to the transmission so if you’re gonna spend a lot of time idling, you also need to put the transmission in neutral and set your part brake.
Nice work on the video kidd. Keep the hot rod culture alive us old timers are getting tired
On the mds solenoids if you give them a whack with a dead blow or rubber mallet an then twist as you pull them out they will almost always come out in one piece.
Use a long bolt or threaded rod at the front of cam and you will have something to hold on to when the cams. almost in
Great video bro, I’ve just scored my first 5.7 Hemi myself. Good to see AMS stuff, especially since I’m local.
cleaning , painting and making it neat is a great base - way to go . we all hope you washed and cleaned the anti rust treatment before lube and install ?
Shes gonna be a beast! Love to see it
I added Lucas oil stabilizer to my oil when I let my lifters soak. I even used a oiler too add oil through the oil hole...
I been working on hemis 20 years now and can tell you those springs are cheaper new from my dodge dealer, just a heads up for next time. Also MDS does not kill the cam, plenty of stick shifts and HD rams with bad cams and mds did not hurt the early engines also most of the bad lifters in mds engines are non mds lifters. Dodge was about to go bankrupt in 09 and cheaped out on lifters in 2009-2014 that's when the vast majority of bad lifters were. I hate to tell you but those lifters are the cheap Chinese ones on fleabay, lots of companies buy them and resell them and claim they are their own "upgrade" but are even worse than the latest stock lifters. I agree the 6.4 cam for the money by a long shot though comp will make a tiny bit more power. The dodge dealer only sells one spring now for all hemis and it is the 6.4 spring.
Hello!
Thank you for the post, I do have a 2007 hemi wit MDS and since I blown the heads I decided to go for a better performance camshaft, just bought a 6.2 camshaft and I am curious about what lifters and springs do I need to use, thank you in advance for the answer!!
@@grajedjc the 6.2 cam will not work in an 07 engine.
As a former tech for mopar I agree
I got new lifters and they gave out in about 4k milles lmao I have a 6.4 cam
Good info and it reads like you know and not just repeating. What are the chances the dealers will have the old ( bankrupt era) lifters if I go buy them? Not that they stock much but they order from somewhere I’m sure. Just had my 5.7 cam and heads done on an older charger pursuit and the builder insisted on using all oem dealer parts head gaskets timing oil and water pump. I used a parts store thermostat to drop it to 180 and two of em failed in a few weeks so I did learn from that 😂
We got 2022 Durango R/T Interceptors and 1 2023 in at work recently. Been studying this whole lifter thing.
Aaaand revisiting why is NOBODY building Gen III dirt track engines!!! I want to shove 1 in a DKM Cyclone modified chassis!!
A couple things, 98% of that grease you put on the cam journals wiped off at the front side of the block journal and was hanging in globs there.
Also do roller lifters roll good in assembly grease? I do not think so but that is just me talkin.
Assembly oil if it's gonna sit for a minute, engine oil if you are gonna prelude pretty quick.
Very informative video, personally I would only use lubriplate on door hinges and window regulators . I was taught to only assemble an engine with something you would pour in your crank case . Still a very good video !
Installed height for 6.4 springs is different from 5.7s. 1.990 vs 2.051 if memory serves...
$250 for lifters is cheap. A good set of johnsons are $800😊
I saw in earlier video that this is a 2013 engine that you added the non vvt 392 cam. I have a 2013 as well but I also have a 2008 non vvt engine. You know if the 392 will go into the older block? I am giving the mds delete plugs and changing the lifters to the ams racing lifters, springs, etc....
No the 2009 and later cams will not work in the pre-eagle block. The front cam journals on both the block and the camshaft are different in a couple ways and are not interchangeable.
2004 did not have MDS. First came out in cars in 05, but only auto transmission. Trucks did not get MDS until 2009 (along with VVT).
So pick a cam for your pre-eagle from a truck for plenty of power and low end torque. Or a car if you want a little more top end but not really much difference. A custom grind for a pre-eagle is gonna be your avenue for the best performance
hi watched your video super informative but you forgot to remove the magnets under the mds it looks like a cross shaped black cup
I got em actually. They were stuck to the bottom! Good catch. 👍
@@MoparManiac do you have a link for the block off plate vvt? i looked it up and there no listing on ebay
@@marcociccone9745
Doesn't seem like they have it listed on ebay now. Here is their website! Thanks!
stankemotorsports.com/Products.cfm?pn=VVTPlug&pID=1
Why would you remove the Magnets? Clean them and put them back. They catch free metal flowing around in the oil flowing through the lifter galley, how could that be a bad thing?
Pro tip: when installing the cam, put the lube on the last surfaces of the can only when they are going in. Cleaner hands, better grip 👍
Very good tip! 👍
It was already on my hands. I comitted 😂
Pro tip my ass. Ever hear of a cam install handle.
Was it the lifters eating the cam or was the factory cams wearing out prematurely, or combination of both. Im hesitant to use a factory camshaft but i see the argument with cost and gains. But are the factory camshafts a ticking time bomb especially for high horsepower combinations.
Lack of oil at idle. Change to a high volume oil pump not likely to have the problem again. It's not because of MDS like everyone thinks.
Yes you got more left. Hope you have the room for that lift.
nice your pretty funny and good info in your video. thanks ! was a pleasure to watch
Appreciate the support! Have lots of personal stuff to wrap up but plan on making more videos. Enjoy!
@@MoparManiac cool ! have fun with em ! i am currently watching to swap an eagle in my w100 86. hope i will find some info. only found pre eagle swap, but im not too much into valve seat drop... its more a roll the dice than only a used cam n rollers and switch in worst case scenario
@@kevinparent8843 i think of youre wanting simple...this carb conversion is the best route. Because you can run a TBI if wanted
@@MoparManiac I don't wanna mess with a carb if i upgrade my engine. if i go carb ill put a 5.9mag. as ive seen a jeep commander 5.7hemi fit mecanicaly without adding too much feature, But, i am still concerned on the valve seat that drops. thats why i am looking into an eagle. i know its complicated, but its a full restore project
Did you add a Hellcat oil pump? Wouldn't hurt anything since you ditched the VVT & MDS solenoids.
5.7 & 6.4 oil pump only has about 12mm of gear width making for lower oil pressure. Hellcat oil pump has a 16mm wide gear and has much better idle oil pressure. Bolts right on too.
I did not....for the simple fact that it will stay over 3,000 rpm driving anyway for sufficient oiling.
I bought one of those cheap borescope cameras and I couldn't get it to work. What did you do to get it to work for you? When it asked for a credit card for ID purposes, I backed out of the setup.
tbh you might as well spend the extra $400 and get a proper cam for that engine. that $400 is worth at least 60hp over the 392 cam
Also gotta watch valve/piston clearance with those big ones...
@@MoparManiac of course you have to watch valve clearance on any after market cam. Usually .580 intake and exhaust lift is a safe bet for most larger cams on the 5.7 with stock pistons. You might have to advance or retard the intake center line if valve clearance is an issue.
@moparmaniac that’s what a limiter/lockout is for. That extra 4-500$ on a proper cam is well worth it. Now that’s some Mopar cheaper secrets.
Hello, I got a 5.7 2007 MDS, I am trying to upgrade to a 6.2 camshaft, does this fit and if so, what lifters and springs should I use?
6.2 camshafts are VVT, they won't work because 2007 engines don't have VVT
Question! What kind of pushrods will work with your setup? And can you go with a larger stall converter on this set up ? Thanks
Eagle pushrods! And i would go 2500-3,000. 👍
Cab someone explain why the vvt delete was done?
Is there an advantage to doing away with the VVT? I have the same cam in my 5.7 with 727 in an '71 Demon, and have no idea how to tune the VVT, and my tuner didn't know either. I'm guessing with a solenoid is either all on (retard) or all off (advanced), and have it set to retard at 4000 RPM. My car has 3.23 gears, and could use more bottom end with that cam, so I may change to a 2500 stall converter. Good info in your video!
There is a HP loss by getting rid of the VVT...but what i lose i figure i can make up with the Carb and Cam! How do you like that cam? Does it sound good? Or is it built more for top end?
Smooth idle, more top end oriented. I think if you want a bit of chop, a tuner can make that happen, . @@MoparManiac
Im not really after chop. I was after the top end drag race potential with good streetability. I have a carburetor...but if you want to keep your VVT and have more bottom end. Use a 6.4 intake and wire in the Short Runner Valve!
Bothers me so much to see the Cam so high....
You're going to want to run a nice heavy oil. 5/20 mfg recommend is for fuel millage. Get some 10/40 in there minimum.
I got a 5.7 hemi I rebuilt the lower end when I bought the truck it spune number 8 bearings had to get a new crank. It still has the hemi tick is that normal?
Could be just a cracked manifold. Go away when its warm?
Great info, I do not use lubriplate, could I ask your reason for using it on a roller cam?
With the dreaded "Hemi tick", i just like the added insurance. I realize it doesnt need a break in with hydraulic rollers...but until the initial oil pressure gets there. I like to protect my investment. Thanks for the comment!
@@MoparManiac you might consider a modern assembly grease like the Driven brand, it will mix with motor oil as temp gets in it. The lubriplate turns into paste if it sits for any length of time, and i worry about it clogging up the metering and sticking a hyd lifter. Just MHO
@@scotts439 never thought of that. I appreciate the feedback!
@@scotts439 i do go out to spin it every now and again to keep everything in motion
@@MoparManiac you may also consider using the hylift johnson lifters, they actually updated the design and it is much stronger than OE, there is much more material around the axle. When I built my own 5.7, I wanted to address the common failures, the other being dropping intake seats. The factory seat on pre '08 heads is too thin and doesnt have enough press fit.
What cam should I get for the 5.7 hemi truck....2008
Non mds for sure. Stage 1 comp for those. No spring change required
This pre-eagle? You can't really do much with any 5.7 hemi before 2009😢
you would be wrong, sir there is plenty to do on the pre-eagle hemi. cam pistons rods crank I mean for god sakes you can buy the stroker kit and make you a 392 and all of that is made easier without VVT because with DVT you have to limit its rotation or you will destroy the engine piston valve clearance is minuscule so it has to be set up properly and should not be done by any Joe blow unless they have extensive knowledge and practice hell if I’m not mistaken, even Steve Brule on engine masters destroyed in early GEN two I think like a 03 to 08. if I remember correctly.
6.1 cam
The 6.4 hemi cam will go right into the 6.1? More lift?
Right into the 5.7s. Should go into a 6.1 as well. Justbmake sure its non-MDS
Hello, I got a 5.7 2007 MDS, I am trying to upgrade to a 6.2 camshaft, does this fit and if so, what lifters and springs should I use?
@@grajedjc 6.2 as in hellcat?
Or meaning the 6.4?
6.4 cam will NOT fit a 6.1
@@grajedjc6.2 cam will NOT fit an 07 motor
you know you shouldn’t mix different-based oils right especially that old ass oil just make sure after your first fire up and warm up that you drain that oil completely and fill it with a good oil preferably 10/20 or 10/30 and although I know it’s a roller bearing you should still be abusing a break in oil with high, zinc and phosphorus additives specially, on all this cheap steel
Surely those duration figures aren't at .050?
As far as I know, they should be.
I used the same cam in my 5.7, it is 221 intake 225 exhaust at 0.050" on a 114 LSA .571/.536" lift - I picked mine up on ebay for about US$200
@@RustyNutsGarage pretty good bang for the buck option
@@RustyNutsGarage That sounds more like it
@@MoparManiacI’ve been looking for the specs on that cam. Seems to be some different posts. Some say LSA is 114 and some say LSA is 120. Do you know the full specs? Thanks
Bro i hope you washed that cam i got a non mds factory cam and i break cleaned it and it was so nasty with griding shit and had to soap and water and then break ckran again
Im mr dob 4 26 HEMI Jake Thomas Blegen Sr AKA pow Mia here I am glory to God
if you want that cam and lifters to survive, do yourself a favor and change up your viscosity of oil ditch the 0W’s in the 5W‘s go with a 10 W I’ve been using 10W-30 full synthetic for 13 years. I’ve got over 230,000 miles, the engine runs flawlessly no ticks nothing and now let me tell you why I did this when I bought it brand new like all dodgers when you crank them, you hear a tick. The engines are very noisy that then viscosity oil doesn’t leave enough oil film on the top end of the engine, dust, causing premature, where during cold start ups, also people have said that they go bad because of low oil pressure because they sit in spin. Plenty hours idling well that also isn’t an issue for me with the 10W-30 I thought fish and camp out of my truck. It spins hours idling, and again with the Dodge idle time is detrimental to the transmission so if you’re gonna spend a lot of time idling, you also need to put the transmission in neutral and set your part brake.
Be careful with that box we can all see your address
Made sure to cover it. Its not my address. Its the dealership
before getting soaked overnight you should boil them for 10 minutes, duh
its basic knowledge
Mopar Non MDS lifters are better than chineez lifters.
I am arroused 🤣🤣🤣🤣🫶🫡🤟🏽
Hey man. Whatever gets the views. 🤣 and this takes no subscription fee