I have a friend who is the full-time historic parts guy for Baldor (electric motors) here in Greenville, SC. He is effectively a librarian for design information on the older products.
We will never see that kind of support from Taiwanese machines. We have a Mazak Long bed lathe bought new with all the goodies in the early 60's. We tried to get parts for it. Instead we got a letter saying the company no longer supported the older manual machines due to the popularity and efficiency of the CNC machines.
Great Job machining the pulley Keith! In the late 1970’s we had that model DoAll bandsaw, in the sheet metal shop, at George Air Force Base in Victorville, California. It must’ve had more than ten coats or more of gray paint on it. “Hey airman! You have nothing to do?” “Paint the machines!” Not many Airmen knew how to use the weld/anneal accessory on the side, but I did. Even had the weld thickness gauge with the two sided grinding wheel. One of the old timers taught me how to use it and we started buying blade stock in rolls again. It was a great bandsaw and cut a lot of metal keeping those old F105 Thunderchiefs and F4 Phantoms flying. Good ‘ol memories.
Hi Keith, Im in the UK and Ive not long finished rebuilding my 1943 DoAll 'ML' bandsaw, its exactly the same as yours only mines a 16" and made under licence here during the war. Like you I have nothing but praise for DoAll, their manuals are all freely available and i was missing a part like you, that they did not carry in stock but the person I contacted in the company Emailed me drawings (it was the gear that drives the top guide bar up and down). My main drive belt from the motor is not as wide as as the one you need for the pulley you have made (I think mines a standard 'C' section) ..Im sure you are aware but make sure there is an oil cup on the end of the shaft of the variable pulley shaft, seems these get broken off and so it never gets lubricated, its on the spare parts drawing. The one other thing that was missing was the original speed rev counter, i wish i could find one. Love your channel and youve done a great job on the bandsaw :)
It has been my experience that the Parts Departments of most companies I've had the need to call are excellent ambassadors of good will. When you think about it, day in and day out they are called upon to handle routine logistics mostly, but sprinkled in are one-off problems of a perfect stranger who may not have full knowledge of what they are looking for. (Not like our Keith.) If a person doesn't really care to help others and doesn't know much about the parts they are handling, such a person will not last long in the parts department. So by law of natural selection, Parts People are interesting, helpful people who get great satisfaction in what they do. Great shout out to the DoAll crew, Keith. (Full disclosure: They can also make pretty good fathers-in-law....)
Product loyalty takes many forms, DoAll obviously is loyal to their product and end user customer no matter what, this is what "made" American machine tools the envy of the industry until bean counters began to overrule product quality and support.
Actually many countries used to produce and backup really high quality tools and other products. The problems set in when management of these companies is taken over by non engineering staff. This decline is not inevitable but really common. Look at what is happening to Boeing with bean counters at the controls. The design chief of a particular aircraft went on to be the chief salesman. Beyond that it used to be that engineering basically ran the show, but not now.
I agree with your assessment of companies that will go the extra mile to help people/customers. Problem is, not many people take their time to ask company customer services to help. I found most, if not all companies, especially these days, are more then willing to help out if you only give them a chance. I have contacted customer services many times and always get info and parts for their products. Thumbs Up!
That arbor has seen a lot of use lately. Great customer support is the hallmark of a great company. Keeping old American iron in the game is heart warming. I wish we still made machine tools.
I didn't discover the miracle properties of cast iron until I was about 50 years old, when I needed to drill & tap some mounting holes in the lid of a large kettle destined to become a test chamber for some physics experiments. I was pleasantly surprised by the ease of drilling and tapping a dozen 4-40 holes without lubricant. As our Australian cousins would say "Easy, peasy!". Drilling out larger starter holes & filing them to a rectangular shape for some electrical connectors was equally effortless. Now I understand why so many auto engines start with cast iron - who knew ? Hanging my head in shame... LOL
Mr. Rucker I really enjoyed this video I watched it twice from start to finish I love that you took us through every step of the production of that piece I’d really like to see it on the finished bandsaw and I would enjoy seeing the bandsaw actually in service. Once again thank you for a great video!
Dura-Bar is wonderful stuff to work with. The quality and consistency is excellent. I made some large scale model railroad wheels (5.1" dia) using it. The sales people at Dura-Bar were very helpful, and I picked it up in person from their facility in Woodstock, IL. They sawed "pucks" of 5.5" diameter bar for me so I could cut two wheels back to back out of each puck. Don't know if it's still the same, but they would sell to hobbyists with a minimum $100 order at that time.
Keith, I agree with what you say about cast iron pulleys giving better drive grip than steel. Steel pulleys seem to develop a glaze and then slippage occurs very easily.
Drawings are nice... I needed a part for my Kearney and Trecker tool and die mill....No longer available but an old employee of K&T faxed me the drawing of the part and I made it....As you say, for free and he didn't really have to do it... So nice when people act in this manner.... Cheers from Louisiana.....Mike
It's a rarity to find a company that's willing to go the extra mile to help with parts for old machines these days. This just goes to show the dedication DoAll has to customer service!
Coincidentally I've been making step pulleys to refit my drill press and I used a similar procedure to machine my pulleys though I started with rough aluminum castings that I poured. I didn't have a handy mandrel like you have so I started with a bolt held behind the jaws in the chuck and mounted the casting onto the bolt with a nut. This sort of worked but due to irregularities in the bolt shank and fit in the hole my pulleys didn't turn out as concentric as I wanted them so for my next attempt I bought a tapered mandrel with an expansion collet. I drilled and reamed the rough casting as well as I could for a uniform and exact bore, then mounted it onto the mandrel and expansion collet and then mounted the assembly to the lathe between centers with a driving dog on the mandrel end. I was able to turn and face all important surfaces in the same setup and my pulleys finished out as true and uniform as you could ask for plus the mandrel and collet saved a lot of setup time. A machine shop might need to have a range of expandable collets but those things are a must have in my book now because if I can make a uniform hole through a rough casting then I can quickly and easily turn the rest of the part true to that bore.
I worked with FATA Hunter for a couple of years in Riverside CA. They made an abundance of machines over the years mostly for steel and aluminum processing. I became acquainted with their parts manager and he had the same attitude as the DoAll folks. Anything for a customer even if it was not the original purchaser. Ols school service!
Good companies have always stood behind their products and supported their customers - no matter what. The problem is that so few of them are left. Imagine trying that with who-the-heck-ever supplies Harbour Fright....HAH, good luck with that baby. Well done Do-All!
Glad to see you make a needed part. Besides being a great source of information, part of the reasons for being a subscriber is your can do attitude. Thanks Keith..
I had a job years ago to machine about 40 aluminum cylinders about 3 inch OD and over a foot long. I bought a arbor that had the same taper as the lathe's headstock. Then I made a bushing that slipped in each end to center and clamp the cylinder at the same time. That let me remove the chuck and up the turning speed a lot and get a single cut, end to end while not having to worry about deflection. Made that job easy.
Mr Rucker I'm a volunteer at the Colorado railroad museum and they have a Doall bandsaw like yours bandsaw so you so you might to contact them for your belt.
I just refurbed a 1939 16" doall metalmaster. Same guts as your saw. All you need is a "B" belt for the motor to "transmission" and an "A" belt from the "transmission" to the gear box pulley.
Fantastic relaxing video Mr Keith. I was searching for ways to make my bandsaw a variable speed saw when I ran across your video. Impressed with your work and you have a new sub. The way you take us along is very relaxing and impressive at the same time. I like to pride myself as someone who can do a little of everything. I thought I had a complete shop but the machines you have in your shop is man heaven for me. If the good lord is alright with it I plan to add a full size shop full of machinist equipment to my heavenly mansion once I cross into through those pearly gates. Between praising him and fishing for heaven bass I'd like to continue playing with my projects in the next life :)
It certainly has elements I've not seen before. Firstly the two sides of the pulleys being 'intermittent' so that they can actually overlap each other when slid together and secondly, the idea of having the variable speed occur by moving the shaft so that one belt tightens as the other slackens - although appearing to give a double ratio the fact that the other pulleys are of a fixed nature takes away that benefit. On the whole, therefore, I think only the overlapping pulleys are a positive step - enabling narrower belts to be used. The potential downside of this could be that the belts don't last as long as they may be subject to greater mechanical stresses.
@@darthboren These are used in many applications, For instance many small lawn tractors with 'variable' speed, The Clausing lathes with variable speed, I think the Bridgeport Variable speed mills also use it.
@@millomweb You're actually sliding one side of the pulley. Pierres garage has a decent video and explaination. ruclips.net/video/v5w5jVPfCfI/видео.html
Old belts are very hard to find or cross. I've been trying to find a Delta 49-120 variable speed belt with no luck at all Great machine work, as always!!
Manufacturers probably have stopped making the wide belts that variable speed drives use because they don't sell enough to make it worthwhile. Cheap equipment uses step pulleys and more expensive equipment uses electronic speed control.
Hi Keith, I hope you will show a video of the variable speed drive in action as I believe many of us expected that the motor shaft needed a spring loaded variable follow pulley just like every other vari-drive that I have experienced. Thanks for all of your great educational videos.
I thought that as well but, I think that springs aren't needed as the centre of the dual pulley is moved up and down to change the speed and the tension of the upper and lower belts is constant
Had the same, and simply took a dual belt pulley and machined off the middle rib. This then replaced the original varispeed as that had suffered from shattered spring tabs, and was no longer available. Then it became a single speed with the original Varispeed belt, as the other side was a integrated clutch mechanism with brake, so changing was going to be difficult. Speed control was going ot be provided anyway by a VFD controlling the motor, as the desired speed was a little below the range of the varispeed anyway, which had spent years at it's highest ratio, contributing to the springs fatigue. When assembling, put a grease fitting in the end of the shaft and grease those splines, so the mechanism runs freely. There should be a threaded hole there already and a set of exit holes for the grease to get into the splines.
How to measure for the correct length belt? Start by making a small block with the cross section of the belt (that should be available online or just make it to fit the pulley you just made) Bring the Variable drive down almost to the bottom (largest diameter for the belt) insert the block near the outer edge (maybe use some rags and a pipe clamp in the back to hold the movable pulley against the block. Now you can measure the distance between the shafts and the pulley diameters and use available belt formulas to calculate the length needed.
i surprised that iron came out so clean. very nice results make me think about other applications. bring yesteryear back with a modern twist. i just want shit to work after a make a part i could careless if it looks old-timey just as long as it is reliable and it don't poke a hole in my hip pocket
That's a nice clean cutting bit of cast iron. The only bit I've ever turned had some really nasty inclusions which made life "quite exciting" with loads of sparks.
Reminds me of a project I'd like to do to my cheap drill press someday. It has one of the variable speped pulley set-ups on the top and a digital speed readout. Problem is is only covers a range of speeds suitable for some wood working use. It won't go slow enough for the recommended speeds on most metal drilling, and not even slow enough for larger forstner bits in hardwoods. Problem is I think it would need an extra gearbox added in to fix it.
I would also have suggested Gates or Fenner for drive belts. They've both been of great help to me in the past with identifying and supplying oddball belts.
Nice plug for Do All. Really helpful would be. “Hey we still have those belts and they are on special with free delivery” Last week they came with a six pack of beer but you missed out on that offer. :) Nice video Kieth. Just the kind of stuff I like watching. I like cast iron too.
Any reason you didn't use any cutting fluid when broaching the keyway? Is it because it's cast iron? I know not really to use any lubrication or cutting fluid when turning or milling cast iron, but i would have thought one would want some oil for an extreme pressure operation like broaching or tapping.
MTD Lawnflite (USA) rider lawnmowers use the same system, as do some older MF combines and older cars like the DAF 55, 66 etc. most of these systems use a very powerful spring too, to keep the belts taut and mechanism working correctly. Sides of the pulleys are called the sheaves in the UK. PS, the MTD's use their own special belts which have an odd angle to their working surfaces.
We have a Doall saw in our shop that looks very similar. Ours has a dial for speed indication and also a bandsaw blade welder attached to it. Ill look at the belt and get you some numbers to see if its close to yours.
A simple question about how you mount the workpiece in the chuck. Wouldn't in make more sense to face the workpiece and also true up at least part of the OD before flipping the part? If you do not, isn't there a chance that the sides are so out of whack that when you flip the part, the face will not sit flush? If you true up the OD, when you flip the part, you know that the sides are perpendicular to the chuck jaws.
You should be able to set one pully open and the other closed and wrap a soft seamstress style tape measure around and get a pretty close number. Fortunately the Gates 1922V belts have pretty large separations between sizes.
Ive been a machinist for 35 years. I would have turned the jaws around and just chuck on about 3/8" then machine the od , groove, face and bore. Then turn it around and face off the extra stock.
Great videos, Keith. I am confused about having a fixed pulley and a variable pulley on what seemed to be fixed shaft distance. With one fixed pulley and one adjustable the shaft to shaft distance has to vary as the diameter on the adjustable changes. Since there are 2 adjustable pulleys on the same shaft, the shaft position is more complicated. Can you explain?
It does appear that the motor shaft will have to move toward and away from the variable speed unit to change speeds. It will be interesting to see how Keith addresses that issue.
Well done Keith, the new pulley will outlast both you and the machine. This Do All will be capable of giving you many years of service and will no doubt work for another century. Carl Woy Woy Australia.
One of the reasons i never start a project until i have all the parts. You start something waiting on parts or missing them and it's doom and brimstone. edit: referring to the previous owner, not Keith.
Or at least hang onto all of the parts so you can go back to what you had if you need to. Even a broken belt would have be handy to get the part number, or at least closer to the length required.
Is it okay to slam the milling machine in reverse like you do at 31:42? I used to do that quite often, but one time my boss saw me doing that while tapping a hole, and reamed ME a new hole, saying it was really hard on the mill. What do you guys think? It really helps the functionality of the mill when power tapping at high speed, but if I must, I'll let the mill coast to a stop first.
I'm interested that you trust the angle set on the compound to create the correct included angle and make it symmetrical whereas you invariably check the diameters with the caliper. If you wanted to check the angles how would you go about it?
A sine bar at the correct angle set against the face of the chuck or part, coupled with an indicator mounted on the compound. Once you get no indicator movement with compound travel relative to the sine bar, you’re there.
DoAll band saws and precision surface grinders were manufactured at Continental Machines in Savage, Mn., just south of the Twin Cities. I worked there as a scraper in the surface grinder department in the 70's and 80's. It was a tremendous place to work, over 500 workers in the plant with excellent pay and benefits, two shifts, a huge cafeteria run by the company not a catering firm, company nurse, and profit sharing. We were aware of and proud of DoAll's reputation. It's a shame what has happened to the American machine tool industry but the now ancient machines live on in places like Keith's shop!
Nice project. Ya know, polaris motor sports like the rzr 900 off road 4x4 with a pulley / clutch assembly that looks just like that. Maybe it will work.🤔
Keith, have a look in the Machinest hand book. There are formulas to calculate belt length based on shaft center distance. Not sure if wide belts are listed. Cheers
Your experience with Do-All is the trademark of a quality company.
Three cheers and two thumbs up to DoAll. It warms my heart that a big company would give that much service for a machine that old!
I have a friend who is the full-time historic parts guy for Baldor (electric motors) here in Greenville, SC. He is effectively a librarian for design information on the older products.
Amen. I have a 1943 16" DoAll bandsaw.
We will never see that kind of support from Taiwanese machines. We have a Mazak Long bed lathe bought new with all the goodies in the early 60's. We tried to get parts for it. Instead we got a letter saying the company no longer supported the older manual machines due to the popularity and efficiency of the CNC machines.
Great Job machining the pulley Keith!
In the late 1970’s we had that model DoAll bandsaw, in the sheet metal shop, at George Air Force Base in Victorville, California. It must’ve had more than ten coats or more of gray paint on it.
“Hey airman! You have nothing to do?”
“Paint the machines!”
Not many Airmen knew how to use the weld/anneal accessory on the side, but I did. Even had the weld thickness gauge with the two sided grinding wheel. One of the old timers taught me how to use it and we started buying blade stock in rolls again. It was a great bandsaw and cut a lot of metal keeping those old F105 Thunderchiefs and F4 Phantoms flying. Good ‘ol memories.
Hi Keith, Im in the UK and Ive not long finished rebuilding my 1943 DoAll 'ML' bandsaw, its exactly the same as yours only mines a 16" and made under licence here during the war. Like you I have nothing but praise for DoAll, their manuals are all freely available and i was missing a part like you, that they did not carry in stock but the person I contacted in the company Emailed me drawings (it was the gear that drives the top guide bar up and down). My main drive belt from the motor is not as wide as as the one you need for the pulley you have made (I think mines a standard 'C' section) ..Im sure you are aware but make sure there is an oil cup on the end of the shaft of the variable pulley shaft, seems these get broken off and so it never gets lubricated, its on the spare parts drawing. The one other thing that was missing was the original speed rev counter, i wish i could find one. Love your channel and youve done a great job on the bandsaw :)
It has been my experience that the Parts Departments of most companies I've had the need to call are excellent ambassadors of good will. When you think about it, day in and day out they are called upon to handle routine logistics mostly, but sprinkled in are one-off problems of a perfect stranger who may not have full knowledge of what they are looking for. (Not like our Keith.) If a person doesn't really care to help others and doesn't know much about the parts they are handling, such a person will not last long in the parts department. So by law of natural selection, Parts People are interesting, helpful people who get great satisfaction in what they do.
Great shout out to the DoAll crew, Keith.
(Full disclosure: They can also make pretty good fathers-in-law....)
Product loyalty takes many forms, DoAll obviously is loyal to their product and end user customer no matter what, this is what "made" American machine tools the envy of the industry until bean counters began to overrule product quality and support.
Actually many countries used to produce and backup really high quality tools and other products. The problems set in when management of these companies is taken over by non engineering staff. This decline is not inevitable but really common. Look at what is happening to Boeing with bean counters at the controls. The design chief of a particular aircraft went on to be the chief salesman. Beyond that it used to be that engineering basically ran the show, but not now.
I agree with your assessment of companies that will go the extra mile to help people/customers. Problem is, not many people take their time to ask company customer services to help. I found most, if not all companies, especially these days, are more then willing to help out if you only give them a chance. I have contacted customer services many times and always get info and parts for their products. Thumbs Up!
It's amazing Keith. Not only did you make the pulley your "staff" found the belt size and part numbers and where to look for it. Well done "staff".
Thanks for the zoom out on the key way broaching. Nice to see the overall operation, while reflecting on the up close shots from last time!
That arbor has seen a lot of use lately. Great customer support is the hallmark of a great company. Keeping old American iron in the game is heart warming. I wish we still made machine tools.
I didn't discover the miracle properties of cast iron until I was about 50 years old, when I needed to drill & tap some mounting holes in the lid of a large kettle destined to become a test chamber for some physics experiments. I was pleasantly surprised by the ease of drilling and tapping a dozen 4-40 holes without lubricant. As our Australian cousins would say "Easy, peasy!". Drilling out larger starter holes & filing them to a rectangular shape for some electrical connectors was equally effortless. Now I understand why so many auto engines start with cast iron - who knew ? Hanging my head in shame... LOL
Mr. Rucker I really enjoyed this video I watched it twice from start to finish I love that you took us through every step of the production of that piece I’d really like to see it on the finished bandsaw and I would enjoy seeing the bandsaw actually in service. Once again thank you for a great video!
Great little project, very helpful to get the correct drawing for the pulley.
The bandsaw is a fine example of Late Modernism in industrial design.
One heckuva nice saw you got there, Keith. Thanks for sharing this video showing how to make a durable replacement pulley!
Another flawless part made on-demand. That's freakin MAGIC. Thank you Mr. Rucker.
Dura-Bar is wonderful stuff to work with. The quality and consistency is excellent. I made some large scale model railroad wheels (5.1" dia) using it. The sales people at Dura-Bar were very helpful, and I picked it up in person from their facility in Woodstock, IL. They sawed "pucks" of 5.5" diameter bar for me so I could cut two wheels back to back out of each puck. Don't know if it's still the same, but they would sell to hobbyists with a minimum $100 order at that time.
I really like Do-All machines. I ran many of them during my naval shipyard career. Nice job on the pulley Keith!
Keith, I agree with what you say about cast iron pulleys giving better drive grip than steel. Steel pulleys seem to develop a glaze and then slippage occurs very easily.
Drawings are nice... I needed a part for my Kearney and Trecker tool and die mill....No longer available but an old employee of K&T faxed me the drawing of the part and I made it....As you say, for free and he didn't really have to do it... So nice when people act in this manner.... Cheers from Louisiana.....Mike
It's a rarity to find a company that's willing to go the extra mile to help with parts for old machines these days. This just goes to show the dedication DoAll has to customer service!
Coincidentally I've been making step pulleys to refit my drill press and I used a similar procedure to machine my pulleys though I started with rough aluminum castings that I poured. I didn't have a handy mandrel like you have so I started with a bolt held behind the jaws in the chuck and mounted the casting onto the bolt with a nut. This sort of worked but due to irregularities in the bolt shank and fit in the hole my pulleys didn't turn out as concentric as I wanted them so for my next attempt I bought a tapered mandrel with an expansion collet.
I drilled and reamed the rough casting as well as I could for a uniform and exact bore, then mounted it onto the mandrel and expansion collet and then mounted the assembly to the lathe between centers with a driving dog on the mandrel end. I was able to turn and face all important surfaces in the same setup and my pulleys finished out as true and uniform as you could ask for plus the mandrel and collet saved a lot of setup time.
A machine shop might need to have a range of expandable collets but those things are a must have in my book now because if I can make a uniform hole through a rough casting then I can quickly and easily turn the rest of the part true to that bore.
That Arbor looks like the one you turned to do the wheels for Veterans Memorial Railroad the day we were all infesting your shop. Thank you again!
Good job keith and doall
I have found that the better quality the tool, the more the manufacturers take pride in them. Thus providing better customer service when fixing them.
I worked with FATA Hunter for a couple of years in Riverside CA. They made an abundance of machines over the years mostly for steel and aluminum processing. I became acquainted with their parts manager and he had the same attitude as the DoAll folks. Anything for a customer even if it was not the original purchaser. Ols school service!
Good companies have always stood behind their products and supported their customers - no matter what. The problem is that so few of them are left.
Imagine trying that with who-the-heck-ever supplies Harbour Fright....HAH, good luck with that baby.
Well done Do-All!
I think you inadvertently taught us how to make a yo yo.
That is nice surface finish for hand feeding.
the surface finish seems to improve a lot with heavy cuts and higher rpm using carbide inserts.
So long as that Yo-Yo doesn't get dropped on the toes there's hours of fun to be had. Elf'n'safety legislation even covers Yo-Yo's these days.😬
@@howardosborne8647 Dont Give Em Any Ideas
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice. Makes you want to go out and buy a DoAll.
that's really impressive (the DoAll customer service), kudos to them
you have a dream shop full of dream machines. Well done.
Glad to see you make a needed part. Besides being a great source of information, part of the reasons for being a subscriber is your can do attitude.
Thanks Keith..
Going to have to make up some arbors. Very nice work!
I had a job years ago to machine about 40 aluminum cylinders about 3 inch OD and over a foot long. I bought a arbor that had the same taper as the lathe's headstock. Then I made a bushing that slipped in each end to center and clamp the cylinder at the same time. That let me remove the chuck and up the turning speed a lot and get a single cut, end to end while not having to worry about deflection. Made that job easy.
Contact the machine shop of Pasadena City College of Pasadena California. In 1985 they had 2 of them that students were using.
Mr Rucker I'm a volunteer at the Colorado railroad museum and they have a Doall bandsaw like yours bandsaw so you so you might to contact them for your belt.
I just refurbed a 1939 16" doall metalmaster. Same guts as your saw. All you need is a "B" belt for the motor to "transmission" and an "A" belt from the "transmission" to the gear box pulley.
Kudos to the Great American Spirit if Can Do and DoAll!
Good on you DO ALL customers support almost thing of the passed 👏👏👏👏👏
Great fun. Thanks. Much appreciated.
i have had similar experiences working on older American machinery. service and support is just one area where it pays to shop made in the usa.
Fantastic relaxing video Mr Keith. I was searching for ways to make my bandsaw a variable speed saw when I ran across your video. Impressed with your work and you have a new sub. The way you take us along is very relaxing and impressive at the same time. I like to pride myself as someone who can do a little of everything. I thought I had a complete shop but the machines you have in your shop is man heaven for me. If the good lord is alright with it I plan to add a full size shop full of machinist equipment to my heavenly mansion once I cross into through those pearly gates. Between praising him and fishing for heaven bass I'd like to continue playing with my projects in the next life :)
Just like a Shopsmith. Brilliant CVT design
Called a REEVES DRIVE.
@@zzzgz5 neat, didn't know that. I'm amazed at how well it works on my Shopsmith and I'm surprised it isn't used more on drill presses and such
It certainly has elements I've not seen before. Firstly the two sides of the pulleys being 'intermittent' so that they can actually overlap each other when slid together and secondly, the idea of having the variable speed occur by moving the shaft so that one belt tightens as the other slackens - although appearing to give a double ratio the fact that the other pulleys are of a fixed nature takes away that benefit. On the whole, therefore, I think only the overlapping pulleys are a positive step - enabling narrower belts to be used. The potential downside of this could be that the belts don't last as long as they may be subject to greater mechanical stresses.
@@darthboren These are used in many applications, For instance many small lawn tractors with 'variable' speed, The Clausing lathes with variable speed, I think the Bridgeport Variable speed mills also use it.
@@millomweb You're actually sliding one side of the pulley. Pierres garage has a decent video and explaination. ruclips.net/video/v5w5jVPfCfI/видео.html
Saylor Beall is good for supporting their products too. i can still easily get parts for my monster 200 gallon compressor made in 1968!
Old belts are very hard to find or cross. I've been trying to find a Delta 49-120 variable speed belt with no luck at all
Great machine work, as always!!
Manufacturers probably have stopped making the wide belts that variable speed drives use because they don't sell enough to make it worthwhile. Cheap equipment uses step pulleys and more expensive equipment uses electronic speed control.
Didn't I see that center drill move a lot at 12:20?....Like it's not properly tightened in the tailstock chuck?
Two that deserve all our respect and support: Mr K.Rucker (love your channel) and DoAll.
Amazing! First bandsaw I've seen with a CVT!!!
I have always had a good response from DoAll. Kudos to them. Great video, Keith.
Hi Keith, I hope you will show a video of the variable speed drive in action as I believe many of us expected that the motor shaft needed a spring loaded variable follow pulley just like every other vari-drive that I have experienced. Thanks for all of your great educational videos.
I thought that as well but, I think that springs aren't needed as the centre of the dual pulley is moved up and down to change the speed and the tension of the upper and lower belts is constant
I love the way your garage door is set to cat height!
Had the same, and simply took a dual belt pulley and machined off the middle rib. This then replaced the original varispeed as that had suffered from shattered spring tabs, and was no longer available. Then it became a single speed with the original Varispeed belt, as the other side was a integrated clutch mechanism with brake, so changing was going to be difficult. Speed control was going ot be provided anyway by a VFD controlling the motor, as the desired speed was a little below the range of the varispeed anyway, which had spent years at it's highest ratio, contributing to the springs fatigue.
When assembling, put a grease fitting in the end of the shaft and grease those splines, so the mechanism runs freely. There should be a threaded hole there already and a set of exit holes for the grease to get into the splines.
How to measure for the correct length belt? Start by making a small block with the cross section of the belt (that should be available online or just make it to fit the pulley you just made) Bring the Variable drive down almost to the bottom (largest diameter for the belt) insert the block near the outer edge (maybe use some rags and a pipe clamp in the back to hold the movable pulley against the block. Now you can measure the distance between the shafts and the pulley diameters and use available belt formulas to calculate the length needed.
i surprised that iron came out so clean. very nice results make me think about other applications. bring yesteryear back with a modern twist. i just want shit to work after a make a part i could careless if it looks old-timey just as long as it is reliable and it don't poke a hole in my hip pocket
When you center drilled it the bit looked loose in the chuck.
Another project well done.
I got the impression his tailstock is off centre. All the drills looked off !
It looked like it was stuck in the jaw. When he retracted the tailstock the bit moved.
Nicely done as always
Man, you are living the dream.
That cast iron sure makes a nice sound when being machined.
I love making chips on my little lathe, but because I tend to be a bit lazy, I'd rather watch Keith make chips. Thanks for another great video.
That's a nice clean cutting bit of cast iron. The only bit I've ever turned had some really nasty inclusions which made life "quite exciting" with loads of sparks.
Good morning Keith
Could you please share the specs of the new motor you used.
Thanks & Great Job!
We have a similar Do-All band saw with the blade welder. It's old but it's a work horse.
Happy Thanksgiving Keith.
You appreciate parts more when you make them yourself...nice job 👍 Keith
Reminds me of a project I'd like to do to my cheap drill press someday. It has one of the variable speped pulley set-ups on the top and a digital speed readout. Problem is is only covers a range of speeds suitable for some wood working use. It won't go slow enough for the recommended speeds on most metal drilling, and not even slow enough for larger forstner bits in hardwoods. Problem is I think it would need an extra gearbox added in to fix it.
vfd
The belt style you need is a Gates series 1922V probably a 1922V321for the lower drive belt, external circumference is 33.01in, hope this helps
I would also have suggested Gates or Fenner for drive belts. They've both been of great help to me in the past with identifying and supplying oddball belts.
Nice plug for Do All. Really helpful would be. “Hey we still have those belts and they are on special with free delivery”
Last week they came with a six pack of beer but you missed out on that offer. :)
Nice video Kieth. Just the kind of stuff I like watching. I like cast iron too.
Hey, your live center is wobbling.
Nice saw.
Thanks for all videos, Keith. May I ask you to make a video about how you keep your drill bits sharp in your shop?
i almost want to go out and buy a new bandsaw, but i really have no need of one . thumbs up to doall
Any reason you didn't use any cutting fluid when broaching the keyway? Is it because it's cast iron? I know not really to use any lubrication or cutting fluid when turning or milling cast iron, but i would have thought one would want some oil for an extreme pressure operation like broaching or tapping.
MTD Lawnflite (USA) rider lawnmowers use the same system, as do some older MF combines and older cars like the DAF 55, 66 etc. most of these systems use a very powerful spring too, to keep the belts taut and mechanism working correctly. Sides of the pulleys are called the sheaves in the UK. PS, the MTD's use their own special belts which have an odd angle to their working surfaces.
Nice Job
Muy buen trabajo..gracias por tu tiempo
We have a Doall saw in our shop that looks very similar. Ours has a dial for speed indication and also a bandsaw blade welder attached to it. Ill look at the belt and get you some numbers to see if its close to yours.
A simple question about how you mount the workpiece in the chuck. Wouldn't in make more sense to face the workpiece and also true up at least part of the OD before flipping the part? If you do not, isn't there a chance that the sides are so out of whack that when you flip the part, the face will not sit flush? If you true up the OD, when you flip the part, you know that the sides are perpendicular to the chuck jaws.
Nice job 👍🏻
A few minutes of "Customer Service" is worth a truckload of goodwill.
Great job, Keith! I always learn something here.
You should be able to set one pully open and the other closed and wrap a soft seamstress style tape measure around and get a pretty close number. Fortunately the Gates 1922V belts have pretty large separations between sizes.
Good morning from St John Parish, Louisiana 20 Nov 20.
Great customer service! Rare these days!!
Ive been a machinist for 35 years. I would have turned the jaws around and just chuck on about 3/8" then machine the od , groove, face and bore. Then turn it around and face off the extra stock.
Great videos, Keith. I am confused about having a fixed pulley and a variable pulley on what seemed to be fixed shaft distance. With one fixed pulley and one adjustable the shaft to shaft distance has to vary as the diameter on the adjustable changes. Since there are 2 adjustable pulleys on the same shaft, the shaft position is more complicated. Can you explain?
It does appear that the motor shaft will have to move toward and away from the variable speed unit to change speeds. It will be interesting to see how Keith addresses that issue.
Well done Keith, the new pulley will outlast both you and the machine. This Do All will be capable of giving you many years of service and will no doubt work for another century. Carl Woy Woy Australia.
One of the reasons i never start a project until i have all the parts. You start something waiting on parts or missing them and it's doom and brimstone.
edit: referring to the previous owner, not Keith.
Or at least hang onto all of the parts so you can go back to what you had if you need to. Even a broken belt would have be handy to get the part number, or at least closer to the length required.
Is it okay to slam the milling machine in reverse like you do at 31:42?
I used to do that quite often, but one time my boss saw me doing that while tapping a hole, and reamed ME a new hole, saying it was really hard on the mill.
What do you guys think? It really helps the functionality of the mill when power tapping at high speed, but if I must, I'll let the mill coast to a stop first.
It's good to see somebody help without charging. Very rare now a days. Thumbs up to DoAll.
Hopefully once it's all together again we can see it working in a video.
I'm interested that you trust the angle set on the compound to create the correct included angle and make it symmetrical whereas you invariably check the diameters with the caliper. If you wanted to check the angles how would you go about it?
A sine bar at the correct angle set against the face of the chuck or part, coupled with an indicator mounted on the compound. Once you get no indicator movement with compound travel relative to the sine bar, you’re there.
We need a shop cat update!
Hey, good job, but what about your 12:21 center drill? It seems like it's not tensioned and moving properly, is that right?
20:48 Making some lovely bangles out of that cast iron - be a bit sharp to wear 'em though lol
Like the shield Guess I'll make like a cat and copy it
DoAll band saws and precision surface grinders were manufactured at Continental Machines in Savage, Mn., just south of the Twin Cities. I worked there as a scraper in the surface grinder department in the 70's and 80's. It was a tremendous place to work, over 500 workers in the plant with excellent pay and benefits, two shifts, a huge cafeteria run by the company not a catering firm, company nurse, and profit sharing. We were aware of and proud of DoAll's reputation. It's a shame what has happened to the American machine tool industry but the now ancient machines live on in places like Keith's shop!
Nice project. Ya know, polaris motor sports like the rzr 900 off road 4x4 with a pulley / clutch assembly that looks just like that. Maybe it will work.🤔
Good job Keith !!
Do you recycle the metal clippings, and do you separate different metal types as well?
Keith, have a look in the Machinest hand book. There are formulas to calculate belt length based on shaft center distance. Not sure if wide belts are listed. Cheers