I knew this but never saw it presented this way. Very straightforward and thanks for doing this. Your products work I have The Answer and your fixed blade and replacement blade sharpening kits.
A sharp presentation of what is considered sharp and very helpful to archers age going up and peak draw weight doing the opposite. I worry more about surgical sharpness now than I did when I shot heavy poundage bows.
Very informative! I just purchased your guide, some diamond plates and buffing compound. I have been sharpening things all my life but until last night’s video never knew about the BURR! Wow! The lightbulb went off when I saw the explanation. Makes total sense. So you can get similar results using sandpaper of the same grit as your plates? Very excited about improving the factory edge on broad heads now. Thanks
Quick question. Do you flip sides at each grit or do you finish through the final stage on one side then do the other? Not sure if you only did one side for the sake of time on the video. Thanks
Thanks for this great instructional video! I just ordered the grey jig to sharpen my Buzzcuts. Does it matter what kind of white buffing compound I use?
Do your stay sharp guides work on a curved head like a Maasai? I have not chosen which heads I am going to try first, but I know I want a stay sharp guide!!!
I still cannot get my broadheads that sharp. I don't know what I am doing it wrong. Feel like I'm not getting any burr at all no matter how many times I run it over the sand paper.
Im in same boat. I have them sharp but i cant get hair cutting sharp. Brand new heads never used and went all the way to 3000 grit. I really feel its just the broadhead and the angle they are
I was using diamond plates not sandpaper. If you do use sandpaper it must be wet/dry sandpaper (usually black in color) for metal. DO NOT use sandpaper meant for wood.
I've heard some say that the bur is not what you want but rather sharpen the edge as if you were trying to shave off a slice of the stone. This wouldn't leave a bur obviously. What might be the advantages/disadvantages of doing it that way?
Getting the burr is done by trying to shave a slice off the stone (or diamond plate or sandpaper) We are saying (doing) the same thing. And when you make enough strokes trying to shave a slice off the stone we eventually reach a new metal edge and the burr is created due to that effort. Now flip the guide over and repeat that process on the other side of the blade and get a burr for that side and you are one step closer to a razor's edge. Repeat that with finer and finer grits (each time making a smaller burr) and you end up with a very sharp blade.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 Wouldn't only pushing the blade forward take metal from the edge and pull in back on the side you are sharpening thus causing no chance to create a bur? I am not arguing your point as you know more about this than I do. Also, do those Stay Sharps wear out?
@@samzahaykevitz1840 If you wish to only roll forward, you can do that but our guide and the process works just as well by rolling in both directions. The burr will still be created regardless of the direction rolled as it makes no difference. WE have not had a guide wear out. Ive been using the same one for 5 years and I sharpen more heads than the usual customer would.
I was sharpening my cutthroats tonight. When I was removing the burr, it was being pushed back over to the beveled side. I was doing it like you describe, any thoughts on why the bur was being rolled back over and not sheared off? Thanks!
no, we are swamped and our archery season opens on Sat so there is no time for sharpening other folks heads. This is a skill set all bowhunters must master for themselves.
I knew this but never saw it presented this way. Very straightforward and thanks for doing this. Your products work I have The Answer and your fixed blade and replacement blade sharpening kits.
Then you will like my newest video. ruclips.net/video/9S37yblh6Gc/видео.html
A sharp presentation of what is considered sharp and very helpful to archers age going up and peak draw weight doing the opposite. I worry more about surgical sharpness now than I did when I shot heavy poundage bows.
Then you will like my newest video. ruclips.net/video/9S37yblh6Gc/видео.html
I've been wanting to get this system. I just need to order it. Love the way it gets any blade scary sharp!
Great video. Very informative. Thank you
Very informative! I just purchased your guide, some diamond plates and buffing compound. I have been sharpening things all my life but until last night’s video never knew about the BURR! Wow! The lightbulb went off when I saw the explanation. Makes total sense. So you can get similar results using sandpaper of the same grit as your plates? Very excited about improving the factory edge on broad heads now. Thanks
Products are phenomenal.
Great video. Thanks!!
I was one of those 20 guys a day...should have watched this first!
Quick question. Do you flip sides at each grit or do you finish through the final stage on one side then do the other? Not sure if you only did one side for the sake of time on the video. Thanks
Thanks for this great instructional video! I just ordered the grey jig to sharpen my Buzzcuts. Does it matter what kind of white buffing compound I use?
no just so long as its meant for metal and not plastic buffing compound.
Do your stay sharp guides work on a curved head like a Maasai? I have not chosen which heads I am going to try first, but I know I want a stay sharp guide!!!
yes here is the maasai video. ruclips.net/video/8-jwf5VVlRE/видео.html
We need the a jig to hold a skinny blade like the the ram cat I can do it but its tuff to do
"When you finish with buffing compound", do you mean stropping the edge?
I still cannot get my broadheads that sharp. I don't know what I am doing it wrong. Feel like I'm not getting any burr at all no matter how many times I run it over the sand paper.
are you using black wet/dry sandpaper? Diamonds???? Its a "time served" thing. It takes time. You will know when you get a burr.
Im in same boat. I have them sharp but i cant get hair cutting sharp. Brand new heads never used and went all the way to 3000 grit. I really feel its just the broadhead and the angle they are
@@brandonbrown6158 did you get a burr? what was the most coarse grit you used?
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 yes. I got a burr wirh metal rod , and then went 320 600 800 where i could feel burr then 1200 2500 3000
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 im trying a different angle though to see if that helps
Don't you need to pull back (like using the buffing compound) to get a burr?
do you think its a good idea to keep string wax or chapstick on your edges while you store them in your quiver to maybe keep oxidation off them?
I would use better options but yes, keep them from rusting with oil.
What kind of sandpaper are you using? Is it specific for metal?
How many grits do you recommend?
I was using diamond plates not sandpaper. If you do use sandpaper it must be wet/dry sandpaper (usually black in color) for metal. DO NOT use sandpaper meant for wood.
Your wife’s make up brush when she isn’t home. Hahahaha. Great idea.
Thank you. Same process for a whetstone(spelling)?
WOW, talk about splitting hairs!
Then you will like my newest video. ruclips.net/video/9S37yblh6Gc/видео.html
I've heard some say that the bur is not what you want but rather sharpen the edge as if you were trying to shave off a slice of the stone. This wouldn't leave a bur obviously. What might be the advantages/disadvantages of doing it that way?
Getting the burr is done by trying to shave a slice off the stone (or diamond plate or sandpaper) We are saying (doing) the same thing. And when you make enough strokes trying to shave a slice off the stone we eventually reach a new metal edge and the burr is created due to that effort. Now flip the guide over and repeat that process on the other side of the blade and get a burr for that side and you are one step closer to a razor's edge. Repeat that with finer and finer grits (each time making a smaller burr) and you end up with a very sharp blade.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 Wouldn't only pushing the blade forward take metal from the edge and pull in back on the side you are sharpening thus causing no chance to create a bur? I am not arguing your point as you know more about this than I do. Also, do those Stay Sharps wear out?
@@samzahaykevitz1840 If you wish to only roll forward, you can do that but our guide and the process works just as well by rolling in both directions. The burr will still be created regardless of the direction rolled as it makes no difference. WE have not had a guide wear out. Ive been using the same one for 5 years and I sharpen more heads than the usual customer would.
I purchased some new (sharpened) cutthroats and they are still not as sharp as they need to be. Any idea what grit I should start with?
240 grit diamond plates.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 dang I was hoping I might be able to skip a few since it was already sharpened
I was sharpening my cutthroats tonight. When I was removing the burr, it was being pushed back over to the beveled side. I was doing it like you describe, any thoughts on why the bur was being rolled back over and not sheared off? Thanks!
probably too much pressure on your stroke
Do you make a guide for the grizsly stick massai?
yes, our type C guide.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 I seen after i asked and ordered 😂
Got a link to those sharpening plates?
What do you use for diamond plates? Are they expensive? I recently bought your Stay Sharp guide, by the way.
DMT makes good plates. You can find diamond plates on Ebay as well. We will be offering a line of diamond plates but not for a few weeks yet.
Innovative Outdoorsman I can wait for you. I’m going to use sandpaper in the mean time.
Thanks.
@@paulcrave3112 It must be the black wet dry sandpaper.
That cutthroat cut me just watching this video.....
Hey if I sent u some mech. Heads, Steelheads to be exact could u sharpen them for me? I
no, we are swamped and our archery season opens on Sat so there is no time for sharpening other folks heads. This is a skill set all bowhunters must master for themselves.
Does this work on muzzy 100s