I run Fuji FS4’s at Ohio Star Forge. We use Timken steel from Timken in Canton, Ohio to forge the inner race and then it gets sent down stream for machining. We don’t do any finishing to the raceway. The rings we turn are considered “green” rings. But in regards to Timken bearings, they are unbeatable in quality and reliability.
I had similar experience, I had to go to three different parts stores till I found Timken bearings for sale....I actually pulled them off one car and used them on another because they were still rock solid
Matt Thank you for taking the time to post on this issue, I am going to replace both rear bearings & hub on my Toyota Highlander and was going to use Moog, the auto parts store said Moog has a high return rate, so I decided to research Moog bearing and thanks to you I will now go with OEM. Thumbs up !!
Proper torque of the axle and bearing assembly is also plays a major role in how long wheel bearing will last. I only run timken or koyo bearings in everything I own, highest quality bearings by far.
I have used SKF wheel bearings and Timken. BOTH are excellent! The manufacturer I work for uses a lot of SKF and Timken in our products. Virtually all products are commercial / industrial use. That means it gets beat and abused. We don't like product failures including bearings.
I'm subscribing just because of this video. I searched and searched for this exact title of video on Google and couldn't find any real advice. This is just what I needed to make my decision.
I just ordered a TIMKEN for my jeep jku and came across your video after ordering it. TIMKEN is all we ever used to replace bearing on pumps and machinery in the plants that I milwrighted at. TIMKEN is a great option and it only cost me $113 on rock auto with ABS sensor.
I just replaced both front wheel bearing assy’s on the front of my 2013 Sierra. It’s been prob 2-3,000miles and so far so good but I’ll def keep my eye on them since this video. Worked for a major Frieght company for 19 years as a mechanic on big rigs and we always used Timken bearings. Good stuff
Never had a Moot failure over 25 years. I'm an ASE tech. I've done the opposite. I've replaced front end parts like Pittman arms etc and seen A/C Delco parts fail in a few weeks. Then installed Moot and they never had issues. Moog is a superior product this is years of wrenching speaking
Hubs/bearings Moog may be good, but it's extremely common to see their tie rod ends and ball joints, suffer rubber boot failure and if not caught early enough, the ball joint inside too. Heck they have changed the boot design at least 3 times on some products trying to counter this, but it never seems to occur to them to just use thicker, silicone rubber instead of cheaping out on the boot.
I was a US Army truck mech..8yrs...I saw bad AC Delco, Bad Bendix, Bad Timken, and Moog. But usually Timken was superior. Moog was next best, and then AC . These companies have all changed people and and owners and things . None are like they used to be. Its like they are new all over again. Some stuff is great and others not. AC Delco is tricky .....some stuff is made here and there. Its a crap shoot. Just search out reviews and see what I mean. Its so sad anymore. China does everything. Excellent and pure garbage. Depends....
@@Rangoslap8 thanks for the co ntribution to the conversation and for the info. I agree with you, too much outsourcing. I got lucky and my Timkens were made in the USA. But you are right ACDelco isn't always. Same with all these companies. Thanks again for sharing your vast experience and thank you for your service!!
@@mattfixesall9000 MOOG and AC Delco are just like Dorman and Beck-n-Arnley, they are RE-BOXER. Hit and miss. What I always check is what the inside. For Bearings: SKF, KOYO, NTN, AISIN, INA/Schaeffler, TIMKEN, SACHS are good. Anything else are garbage. For Balljoints, always get OEM balljoints, they last 10x longer.
Thanks for sharing your experience, getting ready to replace hub / wheel bearing and the fact that Timken is made in America I will purchase brand. God Bless America!
Had similar results after replacing front wheel bearing on 2008 Ford Explorer. Cheapr online purchased failed within about 3k miles. Purchased a Timken., so far so good (4K miles).
Matt if you remove the anti lock sensor you can grease the bearings.... The manufacturer adds just enough grease to get by, as what happened to my 06 Chevy 2500. I learned that if you remove the sensor and add grease through the hole you can fill the hollow cavity with grease let's say Lucas Red & Tacky maybe 20 pumps from your grease gun and you may never have to replace them again......
@@Nate_4545 ,, 06 Chevy 2500 Diesel 4x4, I learned that my ABS light came on after doing this was told the sensor can't read through the grease... Better have a lubed wheel hub and deal with a light 🤔😁
Timken is one of the many OE part manufacturers. They build stuff for many vehicle brands. For ease of parts inventory management, the vehicle maker has their own "brand" (ACDelco, Mopar, FoMoCo, etc.) And the manufacturer of the parts will give them an exclusive part number and it will be boxed under that name. Pretty common. Most aluminum wheels are made by Alcoa, most fuel and ignition parts are made by Delphi or Bosch. Sensors and components are Delphi or Bosch, all of your interior parts are outsourced, and even structural and body components are outsourced. 90% of modern vehicle components are made by companies that are contracted by the Make (GM, Ford, FCA, etc.) And are trucked in to an OEM plant where they're assembled into a final product. Engine/transmission parts as well. Except for a few cases like GM's Allison, or FCAs Aisin transmissions where they are bought as complete units ready to install.
@@mattfixesall9000 no problem! It's not always commonly known information. When I was replacing my spider injector on my old 5.7 vortec, I wanted the updated MPFI spider. I knew Delphi had the most reliable one but the tune of $600 was a bit steep. So I got an ACDelco kit with all the gaskets and such and lo and behold it had Delphi all over it. Even the main head of the spider unit shares the same part number as the old poppet spider setup! I saved a considerable amount of money going this route which was great. At my last job I had various opportunities to see these OEM facilities occasionally and I also visited places where old equipment was stored from OEM facilities. I also know a few people in the industry as well that were able to provide some insight as to how the process of building vehicles actually works.
@@gregorymorrow1730 there are timken made in china and korea. You know that right? Majority of timken are made in china now. If you buy timken even at a reputable online store its not guarantee made in usa. Most likely you will get the made in china one. If you want gurantee made in usa timken then you gotta search for it. Not easy...
Ya. for wheel bearings, OEM is really worth the extra price. There are aftermarket ones that are pretty good, and sometimes even better. But, I always compare OEM to others. Make sure all the tolerances are OK, and any extra performance is then OK. Chinese metal sucks nuts.
Thank you, Brother. I always stick to three brands for my old Volvo XC90: SKF, Toyo and Timken. Unfortunately I bought another Timken two weeks ago. I trusted Timken too much and installed the wheel bearing hub without even checking the country of origins. Today, I cleaned my garage and found out that Timken HA590462 Made in China. If had saw it Made in China before I installed, I would have returned it immediately. I had some experience with the parts Made in China before. Unfortunately, the US auto parts stores or online stores never clearly claim the country of origin of the products they carry. No wonder the price in Rock Auto is almost $100 cheaper than in FCP Europe. Since I have already installed, there will be too much efforts for me to uninstall, replace and reinstall. I learned a lesson in the hard way. Bro, always check the country of origin before you buy or install any parts. Fortunately, my set of brake pads Pagid Made in United Kingdom.
Wait so the rocksuto timken are Chinese? Glad I came to the comments before purchasing it there. Unfortunately I have a Ford. Noel sure where to find hq parts like fcpeuro
I purchased on an OEM Lexus wheel bearing for my LS 430 about 14 months ago. Now it has about 35k miles on it and it’s failing. The original one lasted almost 300k miles. I’m honestly considering going with an aftermarket one now!
thanks Matt. just bought Timken for my Durango. got a great deal at Rock Auto, both front hub assemblies AWD w/ 4 wheel ABS $150 with shipping. steal deal
Did you get the, ‘you installed it wrong’ look from the parts store? (Not saying you did) but I’ve been there. I’ve bought a few MOOG parts I’ve been disappointed in. The China stamp is depressing what it does to companies.
I know the look. Lol. Surprisingly they were very courteous and said that I was not the only one. Made me feel a little better but after all I had gone through I thought a personal experience video needed to be made. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.
Timken is an interesting company with bearings because it really depends on the luck of the draw, they have outsourced Timkens made in China, Taiwan, South Korea, other countries. You can also get them made in USA or sometimes Canada too. I would go to a parts store and ask them to bring you a dozen or so and check each and every one and pick the USA or Canada made Timkens.
Your approach to finding original "Timken Hub Bearing Assemblies Made In The USA or Canada" is spot on! But not many folks would know to do this. I owned an Automotive Parts Store back in the 80's, and I was a witness to the fall of the ACDelco Brand and all of the fake/knock-off, Asian country produced parts that started showing up everywhere at that time. However, when you know what an original ACDelco box looks exactly like from back then and the true colors and numbering system that all ACDelco boxes had, it was easy to spot all the fake/knockoffs! I actually bought some of the fake/knockoff ACDelco stuff (from a major, automotive parts distributing company out of Tenn. at that time) to run test on personally (a lot of ignition stuff especially - but filters and pretty much anything that I knew I could sell), and I was actually shocked at how well the fake/knockoffs performed, even over time. Even gave some to my friends for their vehicles to let them run them and test their performance and life span for me as well. So for the type of customers that just couldn't afford the O.E.M. ACDelco stuff, they settled for the fake/knock-offs that I also carried, just so they could say they bought an ACDelco part, lol. Did I have some fail after a short time? Absolutely! But I just replaced them for FREE because I could buy them so cheaply, and the profit-margin on the fake/knockoffs was 10 times what an original ACDelco part was going to bring me in revenue. So it was a No-Brainer to carry the more popular part numbers in the fake/knockoffs for my CHEAP-O customers. :-)
@@namrednop Well! That was a fun read, thank you for sharing it. I've also had quite good luck with some cheapo China brands that turned out to be quite stout and long lasting at a fraction of the price. For instance on my '01 Maxima my front lower ball joint would always go bad quickly: MOOG, Beck/Arnely, Mevotech -- all failed within 1-2 years each. Warranty was a hassle for me, I just bought a different brand. They all failed until I went cheap and got a Quick Steer joint and that's been good for about 5 years now.
@@jgizzy Every now and then these foreign, automotive parts makers do get it right and make a fairly descent replacement part. I had to carry the Beck/Arnley brand (mostly ignition parts), because the repair shops in my area wouldn't use anything but that brand when it came to replacing any ignition parts. And Beck/Arnley was the most expensive brand there was at the time, specifically made for foreign cars. But they just passed on the cost like everyone did/does. MOOG was a great brand back in the 80's. Not sure about it now, as things have surely changed since I was in the industry. TRW branded stuff went to the dogs at that time during the 80's as well. They just ended up being a re-boxer of everyone else's stuff. It was a time I wouldn't give up for anything. And at the same time, I wouldn't ever want to be back in that industry ever again, lol! Thanks for the reply! :-)
Using SKF on my 1999 GMC SONOMA, 4x4... Premiums.. They Invented Wheel bearing hub assemblies ... They were the first to apply wheel speed sensor technology. They Supply Bearing Assemblies to all New Automotive Manufactures, worldwide.
I just replaced, for the second time, control arms, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Mevotech Chineseium just didn't hold up well at all and was pretty bad almost immediately. Always spend the money for OEM (or equivalent). It's actually cheaper ultimately. Thanks for the video
Sometimes it's easy to damage a new bearing by simply using the wrong tools to install it or a associated component eg is you replace a hub bearing an you tighten the axle nut or hub retainer bolts or even the rim onto the hub with a impact gun. The rapping can easily cause the ball bearing or roll or bearings to get slammed into the race. The moment the ball or roller is scuffed, it's garbage and will eat it self and the race. In very little time usually a humming noise is the first sign eventually play then the seals fail. Some will go for thousands of miles some will fail in 100 miles. Just dropping the bearing can permanently damage it. All bolts that could potentially send vibration into the bearing should be tightened/ removed by using a ratchet by hand. Vibration from the road is absorbed by the tire . A working bearing subjected by vibration will eventually fail. The reason why many 2 stroke engines require crankcase bearings replaced with minimal mileage on them.
Yep good advice for anyone doing the job! Also New Axle nuts. Since they are designed to be used once for most applications. Thanks for the contribution to the page! I’m sure it will save someone some time and effort for many.
Great detail!!! This information was exactly what I needed. 2015 Cadillac SRX Luxury - was just about to purchase the Moog but will now switch to AC Delco.
Thank you, I found bearings for 1/2 the price and figured I was going to get ripped off on the Timkens (a company local to me actually) and this video convinced me not to cancel the order
Excellent video. I wonder about the ride of oem vs aftermarket products. The cost difference can be big. When is that difference worth it? Question answered for this use.
A wheel bearing going bad in 1000 miles is more indicative of improper installation, than a defect in the bearing itself. If you preload the bearing too much... ANY bearing will fail in short order. Are you certain that proper preload was done on the bearing during installation?
Couldn't deciding between a moog and Timken wheel bearing on rockauto but now I know. I'm going with the one made in America. I thought moog was supposed to be a really good after market line but ill take your advice. Thanks for the info!
Hi, good video. Funny thing I ordered a Timken for my 5th gen Dodge Caravan, from RockAuto (dont get me started on that order, they are no Amazon, when it comes to customer service), the bearing was made in Korea like the more expensive Moog, go figure. I installed it about 3 weeks ago, knock on wood no problems so far.
Just installed a Moog Wheel Bearing Hub on my 1997 Pontiac Sunfire Coupe with the 2.2 LN2 and the 3 Speed MD9. So far so good. I sent her a Lil to hard and threw the original 26 year old bearing.
I have been looking at replacement wheel bearing/hub assemblies for a 99 Jeep Wrangler. There are 2 versions of the Moog, a standard "OE" grade and a heavy duty version. Both of those Moog parts are made in Korea. There is only 1 Timken part available, just an "OE" grade, and it is made in China. I was going to go with the Moog HD part because my only experience with Timkin was ordering a pinion seal for an F-150 from them to save a couple bucks over the Ford/Motorcraft part but I returned it instantly because compared to the Motorcraft seal the Timkin was obviously cheap garbage. But now your video has me second guessing Moog too. The actual Mopar OE hub assemblies cost 4 times as much as either the Moog or Timkins, but if you don't have to replace them every year it is more than worth the cost. I think I am going to go with true Mopar parts.
AC DELCO sells other maker's products that meet their oem specifications. I bought some brake hoses from AC DELCO and the hoses in the box were just regular SANSUNG brake hoses.
Matt Fixes All I’m sure quality isn’t as good as it used to be, but at one time they used the best chrome steel and tightest machining tolerances in the world. Dad worked in the railroad division, they had bearings that were kept track of and some went millions of miles.
when you look up a Timken wheel bearing hub assembly for a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 SP500300, Amazon clearly states in the product description the country of origin is China.
I heard nothing about the relative prices of his selected parts. Sure, you can get Timken bearing products....for three or four times the price of the average bearing. I have ordered two Tucarest hub bearings for my 2010 Grand Caravan. I will report back here when I see how well they work. Also, many people beat bearings with a hammer to seat them when an interference fit is involved. Never do this! It leads to early bearing failure. Use the correct tool to press the bearing in.
Thanks for the comment. I agree Proper installation is certainly of the utmost importance when installing any part and wheel bearings very important. The ones that I used were both labeled as premium so the price difference was not substantial between the two, the quality was. Any info you have about your experience with what you ordered is great. Let us know!
Just a tip young man.. When doing wheel bearings NEVER USE any bearings unless they are US,Canadian,Western European or Japanese origin. India is getting better but not there yet. MOOG is no longer(many years) a go to supplier of anything I would trust in car travelling 80mph. Chinese bearings are great and cost effective for bicycles , lawn mowers and lazy Susans.
Bought timken which are supposed to be better had wheel speed sensor issues in less than a year. I replaced it with moog and it’s been on over 5 years and no problems.
Many of the OE bearings used on GM's were Timken bearings. I've seen those bearings last 200k miles when they're kept clean and maintained. If they're not super expensive, why not go back to the OE bearings for replacements.
1) Because they are super expensive, usually. 2) Because you can get some quality from the original manufacturer instead. 3) OEM aftermarket parts may not be the same thing installed at the factory, just supposed functional equivalent, sometimes called "service grade".
I put Moog in at 38k on a lifted F150 (Fomoco) got 38k before failure. Truck now has 101k and just now is making a little noise. I believe there are different quality levels of all products.
Had same issue with 2008 Ford Explorer front wheel bearing. Cheaper on-line bearing started to fail after about 3k miles..replaced with Timken and so far so good(4k miles).
You have to ask the distributor where each specific bearing is made. Moogs "were" made in USA. They are now all overseas. Timken has moved most of their production to S Korea, however for lower volume bearings they simply repackage an OEM bearing. There are no longer any manufacturers that produce all of their hub bearings in the U.S. (I have an auto repair business, and also an industrial bearing business).
Like you I thought I did my research and bought MOOG for my entire front end setup on my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 and discovered after I put them on that the RK series of control arms are not greaseable and are made in Taiwan. However, I also bought their hub assembly and before I put them on I took a close look at them. They are made by TIMKEN right here in the USA. Apparently MOOG recognized the problem and moved to correct it (hopefully). I just don't understand why they haven't worked through their cheap Taiwan loaded control arms by now also. According to the reviews I will be replacing these in a few months (hopefully not but more than likely will). With MOOG products I have learned to check the manufacturing label going forward.
I was about to purchase Moog RK suspension parts for my Silverado and then discovered they also make a CK line that is far superior. Ordered those and getting ready to install. They are supposed to be better than OEM.
@@mattfixesall9000 will do! So far from mechanics shop to Firestone shop for a front end alignment. Wow feels like a whole new truck at the steering wheel. Definitely feels tighter and more responsive. Can wait to get the little slant out of the steering wheel and get it on the highway. So I can hear the silence.
MOOG, TRW, ACDELCO and others get parts from all over the world. Mexico, China, Korea, and others, many others. The best comes from Japan. It's a Roulette wheel when buying parts these days. I got all 555 from Japan ball joints & tie rod ends for my 79 Datsun 620 KC. I bought each piece from a different seller on ebay to make sure I was getting 555. Lucky for me when I found this out a few months ago, I checked all my bushings, control arm & leaf spring, the all came from Japan in MOOG boxes
@@mattfixesall9000 , A seller on Ebay had a 555 lower ball joint listed for sale in a white TRW box. When the package arrived it was a CT.R, made in Korea in a black & blue FED MOGUL box. I yelled bait & switch and I got the one in the picture. I now have a full set of 555 ball joints & tie rod ends. My RARE PARTS strut rod bushings were made in Japan also
Thanks for.the info. I have an 05 silverado 2wd, bought moog about 6 months ago and after close to 1k miles the noise is there again. What do you recommend these days? Asking cuz this vid is 5 years old. I'm hearing people say that Timken is also made in china these days. Thanks
In wheel/roller bearings only three brands I found have good product quality; Timken, NSK, SKF. All are among the more expensive brands and the price differential between the brands is very small. Once in while I can find an NOS Hyatt bearing was also an excellent brand. Moog quality control has gone down hill in my opinion. Sometimes the product is excellent, other times you just look at and you know it's junk. Cheap parts are a 50-50 proposition; sometimes ok, other times it's junk.
funny... on my application I have had 2 sets of SKF bearings be terrible right out of the box with the current ones (rear) having been on less than a week and have what I'd call dangerous levels of play and movement already...
@@zeroswings2 I'm sorry to hear that; I have installed SKF bearings for over 30 years and never had a problem. Are the current bearings you received made in China? All the above bearings I've gotten (NSK, Timken, SKF and though I didn't list them Bower/BCA are also good. ) I'm sorry that it appears that NSK has lost its quality control and now makes bearings in China and India and doesn't seem to import Japan made units. I will no longer purchase NSK units. If you can find them and sometimes they are really cheap (NOS) New Departure/Hyatt USA bearings have also been a good bet, but New Departure/Hyatt bearings for normal automotive use haven't been manufactured in almost 30 years. Bought some a few years back from old parts store going out of business paid less than a dollar each. New Departure/Hyatt was a GM division.
@@zeroswings2 Old comment, but I had the same issue. I replaced a bad wheel bearing with an SKF, noticeable play in the wheel within a week or two enough to cause the brake drum to begin rubbing/grinding and 'sounding the alarm'. I was sent a new bearing under warranty. The next one also had noticeable play in the wheel within 1-2 weeks. The parts distributor just issued a refund because they weren't sure they could give me a good replacement SKF.
In the mid 1960s I worked at a jobber parts store. Mood was a sacred name in auto and truck parts. None better. I am old now and I read about what people say about Moog and it makes me so sad. My dad would turn over in his grave over what has happened to Moog.
Moog is one of those brands all the parts stores carry so if you need it now you unfortunately have no choice, it's crap. I think there's a reason they never carry OEM brands, or even timken. NAPA has SKF rebranded
I changed the passenger side whb on my crown Vic with a Duralast about a month ago and so far so good. The driver's side is now making noise so I've ordered a Timken. Hope it's good.
Warning! There are different quality levels of AC Delco products, if it says "Advantage," that is their cheaper line and the AC Delco front hub assembly whose part number carries an "a" at the end only has a 12-month warranty... and probably does not include the highest quality bearing.
So it turns out ball-bearing bearings are not good for trucks as they wear out faster. And since that's what moog uses, that's likely the biggest problem you ran into. Still glad I watched your video. Dropped the moogs from my cart and went with a brand that had a roller bearing design.
my OEM NTN has lasted 17 years. i installed on my Infiniti G35 ,Moog, it has 3 years warranty. Timken gives only 1 year. SkF is basically same price as OEM.
@@mattfixesall9000 you are most welcome. Thank you. I just noticed SKF is only for me 10€ cheaper than OEM. In EU SkF ,they have for Nissan 350z bearing too but it does not fit to G35 ,nevertheless they share same oem product code. possibly abs sensor is different. i went on moog because of warranty but moog seem to be stuck( front).not rolling as freely as oem. can you comment that? it is 200g heavier also?
You seem to have a pretty good handle on your vehicle specifications, not sure I could add too much without being there. You could always call the manufacturer and ask them about their specifications for your specific application. They may have some good insight for you :). Hope it goes smoothly. Comment back on your experience!
Went with Timkens on my 2009 accord front and back hub assembly. It was a good choice, SKF would’ve been good too. AC delco tends to Rebox the better aftermarket manufacturers.
Timkin is the best by far! Be cautious about buying AC Delco. GM licenses the name. What you get is not necessarily the same as the original GM part that the car was built with or the part that's sold over the dealership parts counter.
Hi mat So is timken a good product to buy. Looking for a wheel bearing hub assembly for 2007 Chevy uplander. Parts geek has it for $111.00 dollar plus 9.25 for shipping. Or should I get an ACdelco brand?
The casting on my new ACDelco water-pump was a complete wreck (voids and trapped sand.) I ordered a replacement and it was also very bad. It said made in Canada but that probably means assembled in Canada. The casting is probably from China.
Im confused so Ac Delco is Timken? Well im glad i did ordered Ac Delco, i dont like wasting money on junk n after all the bad reviews on moog i changed my mind..thanks guys , wuts crazy is my old moog still good n i had for 3 years now n nothing wrong w it i think i got lucky b4 it changed to china this one was 🇺🇸 U.S.A made.. but im just gonna change em both at the same time to hopefully not have problems for a very long time
For my car ACdelco used a timken bearing. The Timkens can’t be beat. ACdelco may use something different for your make but they source parts from different brands frequently from what I have been told.
Had the infamous 05 f150 4×4 replaced the front wheel bearings on both sides about 3 times on each . Seems like a yearly thing , so they said they have a "better quality " moog but it's $100 more . I get it and surprisingly it lasted 6 months . Not what I expected for the extra $100
Umm .. I agree 100%. I, like many others, had installed my THIRD set of Chinese-Cheapo hubs/bearings, in 25,000 miles, on my Silverado. So I thought that MOOG, TIMKEN, or AC-DELCO parts would be the best. Looking around at videos, seems my old-days favorite MOOG has fallen off the wagon, as have the smaller TIMKEN bearings (no longer made by TIMKEN .. read the box), and it seems MOOG may not be the best choice for hubs. After much research, wasted money, and waaay too many hours on the garage floor hammering these bastards out, I resolve to purchase only the manufacturer's product; Like, AC-DELCO. Spend the little extra and save yourself a lot of wasted money and valuable time. Trust me on this one. But those damned beautiful, shiny, slick $25 (w/free delivery!) hubs are just soooo damned pretty! But don't be fooled, and don't be a cheap-ass like me. Get the good stuff, the first time around.
@matt fixes all you confused me at the end you said you went with the Timken then AC Delco OEM. So which one did you use I have a 2015 chevy impala lt limited and bought my wheel hub from auto zone and ir went bad so should I get the TIMKEN because I called the dealer and they want 400$ dollars for one
The OEM bearing on my 98 Honda died...so I got a bearing from a big box autoparts store...it failed in under 2 weeks. SO I went on Summit and ordered a Timken bearing...Needless to say no more problems...Avoid Moog and Chinese crap.
Im about to replace them on my wife's 2001 Dodge ram 1500 with a set of Timkens. I had replaced them a little over 50,000 miles ago with the cheap oreillys house brand and they're going bad again but that being said I guess that many miles isn't bad especially with how she drives 😬
Damn..I bought Detroit axel and put them on yesterday...20 inch rims 37" MT tires...Well once I pulled my tire off I realized it was my rotors rubbing slightly on my break pads..Both the ones I pulled out are good and after cleaning them up I saw they are timken made in the USA...Guess I will be holding on to these timkens and putting them back in soon..That's my luck lol
Thank u..I don't have as much faith in the Detroit axel I just put in after watching your video..I will say my truck feels less restricted..Like if I'm costing it feels like it's moving along easier...I'm also shifting at lower rpms again like I did before I put the 37s on...I thought the bigger tire being heavier on stock rear diff was why I was shifting at 2 rpm..I'm back to shifting at 1 1/2 RPM again...My only guess is because maybe my truck felt it was towing because the rotors where Barley touching the pads while driving so it was not moving freely like it is now after I fixed that issue..Honestly I'm kinda stumped on this one
Depends on the car. Searched moogs for GM. they are made in Korea , Searched the GM AC DELCO says they are made in China. Maybe I’ll check out Timken 😂. But I must say 02 GM Tahoe with 280k miles are still going good. I just want to replace as maintenance now. I’m betting the 02 OEM were not made in Korea or China 😂
I bought Timkin for 95 Chevy k-1500 race /bearing/. It failed me in 3 years. Dissembled to find a cheap plastic race for the tapered roller bearings. I was not happy.
We make the superior product for sure. I'm a cnc operator for Timken at their Tyger River plant in SC. Glad you were satisfied with your choice!
I run Fuji FS4’s at Ohio Star Forge. We use Timken steel from Timken in Canton, Ohio to forge the inner race and then it gets sent down stream for machining. We don’t do any finishing to the raceway. The rings we turn are considered “green” rings. But in regards to Timken bearings, they are unbeatable in quality and reliability.
Depends on where they’re made. The timkens for my ‘01 2500hd are trash
You guys make the best even for my Japanese Honda...no substitute for quality TY...
I wish that were the case, the ones for a jeep xj are the same as an skf. I wish they were still made in the USA. Do you still work for timken?
I had similar experience, I had to go to three different parts stores till I found Timken bearings for sale....I actually pulled them off one car and used them on another because they were still rock solid
Matt Thank you for taking the time to post on this issue, I am going to replace both rear bearings & hub on my Toyota Highlander and was going to use Moog, the auto parts store said Moog has a high return rate, so I decided to research Moog bearing and thanks to you I will now go with OEM. Thumbs up !!
Thanks for the feedback! Just wanted to share my experience.
Thank you from Canada! Exactly what I needed to know. Appreciate you taking the time to save us hassles and headaches
Glad to help! Let me know what content you want to see!
Proper torque of the axle and bearing assembly is also plays a major role in how long wheel bearing will last. I only run timken or koyo bearings in everything I own, highest quality bearings by far.
Great comment!
Based on reviews I purchased Timken for my STS. I did put 60k miles on it till I traded it. Never had an issue with it...super quality bearings.
I have used SKF wheel bearings and Timken. BOTH are excellent! The manufacturer I work for uses a lot of SKF and Timken in our products.
Virtually all products are commercial / industrial use. That means it gets beat and abused. We don't like product failures including bearings.
Thanks for the contribution!
FAG is good too, German brand. Going with a cheaper off-brand is just begging for problems on stuff as critical as a wheelbearing.
I'm subscribing just because of this video. I searched and searched for this exact title of video on Google and couldn't find any real advice. This is just what I needed to make my decision.
Thanks so much for the subscription and the comment! I was so frustrated :)
I just ordered a TIMKEN for my jeep jku and came across your video after ordering it. TIMKEN is all we ever used to replace bearing on pumps and machinery in the plants that I milwrighted at. TIMKEN is a great option and it only cost me $113 on rock auto with ABS sensor.
Thanks for the contribution!!!
Timken Made in USA are my choice of bearings. I trust them for my Hog!
Thanks for the contribution!
Timken is all over semi trucks
I work in forklift repair and Timken bearings have always had a reputation for being some of the best in the world.
TC in Annapolis Maryland
From my research every one makes junk bearings now, thanks.
honchoryanc haha I feel the exact same way. Everything is trash
Honestly
Made in China
Or made using Chinese technology
engineered is usa but assembled in china by underpaid laborers who don't give a damn about quality.
I use mostly acdelcos parts. Seem to always work for the time I keep the vehicles.
I just replaced both front wheel bearing assy’s on the front of my 2013 Sierra. It’s been prob 2-3,000miles and so far so good but I’ll def keep my eye on them since this video. Worked for a major Frieght company for 19 years as a mechanic on big rigs and we always used Timken bearings. Good stuff
Thanks for the contributing your experience to the channel!
Never had a Moot failure over 25 years. I'm an ASE tech.
I've done the opposite.
I've replaced front end parts like Pittman arms etc and seen A/C Delco parts fail in a few weeks.
Then installed Moot and they never had issues.
Moog is a superior product this is years of wrenching speaking
Thanks for your contribution!
Yah A/C Delco is bottom of the barrel but if they are just rebranded Timkens then they are fine.
Hubs/bearings Moog may be good, but it's extremely common to see their tie rod ends and ball joints, suffer rubber boot failure and if not caught early enough, the ball joint inside too. Heck they have changed the boot design at least 3 times on some products trying to counter this, but it never seems to occur to them to just use thicker, silicone rubber instead of cheaping out on the boot.
used to be good. PAST TENSE!!
Thanks for this video Matt!! It really helped me out a few months ago. I am in!
Thanks for the feedback and for subscribing!! My hope is to make some helpful content and some entertaining stuff too.
Thanks a lot. Yeah we didn't have the bottom two braces welded when I shot it but it can get all the way on its side.
I was a US Army truck mech..8yrs...I saw bad AC Delco, Bad Bendix, Bad Timken, and Moog. But usually Timken was superior. Moog was next best, and then AC . These companies have all changed people and and owners and things . None are like they used to be. Its like they are new all over again. Some stuff is great and others not.
AC Delco is tricky .....some stuff is made here and there. Its a crap shoot. Just search out reviews and see what I mean. Its so sad anymore. China does everything. Excellent and pure garbage. Depends....
@@Rangoslap8 thanks for the co ntribution to the conversation and for the info. I agree with you, too much outsourcing. I got lucky and my Timkens were made in the USA. But you are right ACDelco isn't always. Same with all these companies. Thanks again for sharing your vast experience and thank you for your service!!
@@mattfixesall9000 MOOG and AC Delco are just like Dorman and Beck-n-Arnley, they are RE-BOXER. Hit and miss. What I always check is what the inside. For Bearings: SKF, KOYO, NTN, AISIN, INA/Schaeffler, TIMKEN, SACHS are good. Anything else are garbage. For Balljoints, always get OEM balljoints, they last 10x longer.
Thanks for sharing your experience, getting ready to replace hub / wheel bearing and the fact that Timken is made in America I will purchase brand. God Bless America!
Had similar results after replacing front wheel bearing on 2008 Ford Explorer. Cheapr online purchased failed within about 3k miles. Purchased a Timken., so far so good (4K miles).
It's crazy how many people have reached out and shared a similar story. Thanks for commenting.
I installed a timken wheel bearing on a 09 ram 1500 and she’s still running strong!
You are absolutely right, moog didn’t last a month, in front of 08 pathfinder, installed Timken over 2 years now, made in USA
Where did you find made in USA Timkin wheel hubs or bearings? You lucked out!!
Matt if you remove the anti lock sensor you can grease the bearings....
The manufacturer adds just enough grease to get by, as what happened to my 06 Chevy 2500. I learned that if you remove the sensor and add grease through the hole you can fill the hollow cavity with grease let's say Lucas Red & Tacky maybe 20 pumps from your grease gun and you may never have to replace them again......
Wow awesome tip!!!
What wheel hubs do you fun Antman?
@@Nate_4545 ,, 06 Chevy 2500 Diesel 4x4, I learned that my ABS light came on after doing this was told the sensor can't read through the grease... Better have a lubed wheel hub and deal with a light 🤔😁
OEM always has the best R&D and materials. Great video!
I agree with you. Unless its high performance OEM is the way! Thanks for the comment!
My 96 Ford Explorer bought a cheap Chinese wheel bearing assembly lasted one year . Spend the extra money & got Timken no issues
Timken is the best!
Timken is one of the many OE part manufacturers. They build stuff for many vehicle brands. For ease of parts inventory management, the vehicle maker has their own "brand" (ACDelco, Mopar, FoMoCo, etc.) And the manufacturer of the parts will give them an exclusive part number and it will be boxed under that name.
Pretty common. Most aluminum wheels are made by Alcoa, most fuel and ignition parts are made by Delphi or Bosch. Sensors and components are Delphi or Bosch, all of your interior parts are outsourced, and even structural and body components are outsourced. 90% of modern vehicle components are made by companies that are contracted by the Make (GM, Ford, FCA, etc.) And are trucked in to an OEM plant where they're assembled into a final product. Engine/transmission parts as well. Except for a few cases like GM's Allison, or FCAs Aisin transmissions where they are bought as complete units ready to install.
Thanks for contributing. Great information!
@@mattfixesall9000 no problem! It's not always commonly known information. When I was replacing my spider injector on my old 5.7 vortec, I wanted the updated MPFI spider. I knew Delphi had the most reliable one but the tune of $600 was a bit steep. So I got an ACDelco kit with all the gaskets and such and lo and behold it had Delphi all over it. Even the main head of the spider unit shares the same part number as the old poppet spider setup! I saved a considerable amount of money going this route which was great.
At my last job I had various opportunities to see these OEM facilities occasionally and I also visited places where old equipment was stored from OEM facilities.
I also know a few people in the industry as well that were able to provide some insight as to how the process of building vehicles actually works.
I agree that Timken is a good brand, but just because a product is made in the USA does not mean that the steel was made in the USA!
Timken makes there own steel. Canton ohio
Awesome!! USA!
@@gregorymorrow1730 there are timken made in china and korea. You know that right? Majority of timken are made in china now. If you buy timken even at a reputable online store its not guarantee made in usa. Most likely you will get the made in china one. If you want gurantee made in usa timken then you gotta search for it. Not easy...
Ya. for wheel bearings, OEM is really worth the extra price. There are aftermarket ones that are pretty good, and sometimes even better. But, I always compare OEM to others. Make sure all the tolerances are OK, and any extra performance is then OK.
Chinese metal sucks nuts.
Thank you, Brother. I always stick to three brands for my old Volvo XC90: SKF, Toyo and Timken. Unfortunately I bought another Timken two weeks ago. I trusted Timken too much and installed the wheel bearing hub without even checking the country of origins. Today, I cleaned my garage and found out that Timken HA590462 Made in China. If had saw it Made in China before I installed, I would have returned it immediately. I had some experience with the parts Made in China before. Unfortunately, the US auto parts stores or online stores never clearly claim the country of origin of the products they carry.
No wonder the price in Rock Auto is almost $100 cheaper than in FCP Europe. Since I have already installed, there will be too much efforts for me to uninstall, replace and reinstall. I learned a lesson in the hard way. Bro, always check the country of origin before you buy or install any parts.
Fortunately, my set of brake pads Pagid Made in United Kingdom.
Thanks for your contribution!
Wait so the rocksuto timken are Chinese? Glad I came to the comments before purchasing it there. Unfortunately I have a Ford. Noel sure where to find hq parts like fcpeuro
I purchased on an OEM Lexus wheel bearing for my LS 430 about 14 months ago. Now it has about 35k miles on it and it’s failing. The original one lasted almost 300k miles. I’m honestly considering going with an aftermarket one now!
Thats wild. Let us know how it goes!
Thanks Just ordered a Timkin for my silverado..... was thinking about cheap and then found this video thanks....
Thanks for the info..
I've always been under the impression Moog was top Shelf.
But apparently it no longer is.
I know i just put a second moog outer tie rod on my ford edge that was about a year old.
Moog went the way of Optima batteries. Garbage that started with an excellent lineage.
Excellent video, thank you so much for posting, I just ordered 2 Timkens and they cost $3 less lol :) Great job man keep em comin'!
Just ordered some Timken for the front of my truck. Thanks for the advice !
thanks Matt. just bought Timken for my Durango. got a great deal at Rock Auto, both front hub assemblies AWD w/ 4 wheel ABS $150 with shipping. steal deal
Nice! Don't forget new hub nuts
Did you get the, ‘you installed it wrong’ look from the parts store? (Not saying you did) but I’ve been there.
I’ve bought a few MOOG parts I’ve been disappointed in. The China stamp is depressing what it does to companies.
I know the look. Lol. Surprisingly they were very courteous and said that I was not the only one. Made me feel a little better but after all I had gone through I thought a personal experience video needed to be made. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.
Timken is an interesting company with bearings because it really depends on the luck of the draw, they have outsourced Timkens made in China, Taiwan, South Korea, other countries. You can also get them made in USA or sometimes Canada too. I would go to a parts store and ask them to bring you a dozen or so and check each and every one and pick the USA or Canada made Timkens.
Thanks for the contribution!!!
Your approach to finding original "Timken Hub Bearing Assemblies Made In The USA or Canada" is spot on! But not many folks would know to do this.
I owned an Automotive Parts Store back in the 80's, and I was a witness to the fall of the ACDelco Brand and all of the fake/knock-off, Asian country produced parts that started showing up everywhere at that time. However, when you know what an original ACDelco box looks exactly like from back then and the true colors and numbering system that all ACDelco boxes had, it was easy to spot all the fake/knockoffs!
I actually bought some of the fake/knockoff ACDelco stuff (from a major, automotive parts distributing company out of Tenn. at that time) to run test on personally (a lot of ignition stuff especially - but filters and pretty much anything that I knew I could sell), and I was actually shocked at how well the fake/knockoffs performed, even over time. Even gave some to my friends for their vehicles to let them run them and test their performance and life span for me as well.
So for the type of customers that just couldn't afford the O.E.M. ACDelco stuff, they settled for the fake/knock-offs that I also carried, just so they could say they bought an ACDelco part, lol. Did I have some fail after a short time? Absolutely! But I just replaced them for FREE because I could buy them so cheaply, and the profit-margin on the fake/knockoffs was 10 times what an original ACDelco part was going to bring me in revenue. So it was a No-Brainer to carry the more popular part numbers in the fake/knockoffs for my CHEAP-O customers. :-)
@@namrednop Well! That was a fun read, thank you for sharing it. I've also had quite good luck with some cheapo China brands that turned out to be quite stout and long lasting at a fraction of the price. For instance on my '01 Maxima my front lower ball joint would always go bad quickly: MOOG, Beck/Arnely, Mevotech -- all failed within 1-2 years each. Warranty was a hassle for me, I just bought a different brand. They all failed until I went cheap and got a Quick Steer joint and that's been good for about 5 years now.
@@jgizzy Every now and then these foreign, automotive parts makers do get it right and make a fairly descent replacement part. I had to carry the Beck/Arnley brand (mostly ignition parts), because the repair shops in my area wouldn't use anything but that brand when it came to replacing any ignition parts. And Beck/Arnley was the most expensive brand there was at the time, specifically made for foreign cars. But they just passed on the cost like everyone did/does.
MOOG was a great brand back in the 80's. Not sure about it now, as things have surely changed since I was in the industry. TRW branded stuff went to the dogs at that time during the 80's as well. They just ended up being a re-boxer of everyone else's stuff.
It was a time I wouldn't give up for anything. And at the same time, I wouldn't ever want to be back in that industry ever again, lol! Thanks for the reply! :-)
Thanks, this is a serious problelm ~ every bit of information based on real in service testing is gold, and could save a life.
Using SKF on my 1999 GMC SONOMA, 4x4... Premiums.. They Invented Wheel bearing hub assemblies ... They were the first to apply wheel speed sensor technology. They Supply Bearing Assemblies to all New Automotive Manufactures, worldwide.
I have a Dodge Rams with 2 moog front wheel bearings with 80000 miles on them no issues
Great!! Thanks for your contribution!!!
I just replaced, for the second time, control arms, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Mevotech Chineseium just didn't hold up well at all and was pretty bad almost immediately. Always spend the money for OEM (or equivalent). It's actually cheaper ultimately. Thanks for the video
Thanks for commenting and contributing to the conversation! I am with you, Time is money too!
Yes you change the wheel bearing out but did you change everything else out that was worn out to keep the wheel bearing from going out quicker?
Sometimes it's easy to damage a new bearing by simply using the wrong tools to install it or a associated component eg is you replace a hub bearing an you tighten the axle nut or hub retainer bolts or even the rim onto the hub with a impact gun. The rapping can easily cause the ball bearing or roll or bearings to get slammed into the race. The moment the ball or roller is scuffed, it's garbage and will eat it self and the race. In very little time usually a humming noise is the first sign eventually play then the seals fail. Some will go for thousands of miles some will fail in 100 miles. Just dropping the bearing can permanently damage it. All bolts that could potentially send vibration into the bearing should be tightened/ removed by using a ratchet by hand. Vibration from the road is absorbed by the tire . A working bearing subjected by vibration will eventually fail. The reason why many 2 stroke engines require crankcase bearings replaced with minimal mileage on them.
Yep good advice for anyone doing the job! Also New Axle nuts. Since they are designed to be used once for most applications. Thanks for the contribution to the page! I’m sure it will save someone some time and effort for many.
Amen
Dude, thank you for posting this. I was just looking at wheel bearings. This has helped solve my what to do dilemma.
No problem! Don't forget to get new axle nuts too.
Great detail!!! This information was exactly what I needed. 2015 Cadillac SRX Luxury - was just about to purchase the Moog but will now switch to AC Delco.
Glad to help. Wish I had this info before I started my journey.
Thank you, I found bearings for 1/2 the price and figured I was going to get ripped off on the Timkens (a company local to me actually) and this video convinced me not to cancel the order
Brendan Callery what website
How did they work out
Excellent video. I wonder about the ride of oem vs aftermarket products. The cost difference can be big. When is that difference worth it? Question answered for this use.
@@shawnpa thanks for commenting and adding to the conversation!
A wheel bearing going bad in 1000 miles is more indicative of improper installation, than a defect in the bearing itself. If you preload the bearing too much... ANY bearing will fail in short order. Are you certain that proper preload was done on the bearing during installation?
It was all done to spec! I agree with you!
BCA bearings by NTN are top notch as well..they actually build most of the oem hubs.
Big nod to the boognish my friend!
There are ac Delco parts that cost 5 times the price of the popular Amazon brands. For bearings Timken/SKF have been name brands globally for ages!!!
Thanks for contributing to the conversation!
Couldn't deciding between a moog and Timken wheel bearing on rockauto but now I know. I'm going with the one made in America. I thought moog was supposed to be a really good after market line but ill take your advice. Thanks for the info!
They were like 3 years ago, but they sold the company so now the parts are crap.
Hi, good video. Funny thing I ordered a Timken for my 5th gen Dodge Caravan, from RockAuto (dont get me started on that order, they are no Amazon, when it comes to customer service), the bearing was made in Korea like the more expensive Moog, go figure. I installed it about 3 weeks ago, knock on wood no problems so far.
Just installed a Moog Wheel Bearing Hub on my 1997 Pontiac Sunfire Coupe with the 2.2 LN2 and the 3 Speed MD9. So far so good. I sent her a Lil to hard and threw the original 26 year old bearing.
Sweet! Sounds fun! Thanks for the contribution!!!
@@mattfixesall9000 Man I really like your content. Expect me to comment where I can. Super cool folks.
Thank you very much! I appreciate it! Let me know if you ever have any content requests ill try to make it happen if i get the chance!
I have been looking at replacement wheel bearing/hub assemblies for a 99 Jeep Wrangler. There are 2 versions of the Moog, a standard "OE" grade and a heavy duty version. Both of those Moog parts are made in Korea. There is only 1 Timken part available, just an "OE" grade, and it is made in China. I was going to go with the Moog HD part because my only experience with Timkin was ordering a pinion seal for an F-150 from them to save a couple bucks over the Ford/Motorcraft part but I returned it instantly because compared to the Motorcraft seal the Timkin was obviously cheap garbage. But now your video has me second guessing Moog too. The actual Mopar OE hub assemblies cost 4 times as much as either the Moog or Timkins, but if you don't have to replace them every year it is more than worth the cost. I think I am going to go with true Mopar parts.
Thanks for adding to the conversation
AC DELCO sells other maker's products that meet their oem specifications. I bought some brake hoses from AC DELCO and the hoses in the box were just regular SANSUNG brake hoses.
Thanks for your contribution to the conversation
My moog is made in Taiwan. I just got done installing it about 5 minutes ago, so I hope it works out
Timken is superior, maybe because my Dad worked there for 37 yrs
They are the best!!
Matt Fixes All I’m sure quality isn’t as good as it used to be, but at one time they used the best chrome steel and tightest machining tolerances in the world. Dad worked in the railroad division, they had bearings that were kept track of and some went millions of miles.
@@deborahchesser7375 Timkin is the bearing that did the job and is the most durable. It's the only way to go.
It has been a cpl of years. Is the wheel bearing still holding up?
when you look up a Timken wheel bearing hub assembly for a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 SP500300, Amazon clearly states in the product description the country of origin is China.
That sucks. Thanks for sharing the info for others!
I heard nothing about the relative prices of his selected parts. Sure, you can get Timken bearing products....for three or four times the price of the average bearing. I have ordered two Tucarest hub bearings for my 2010 Grand Caravan. I will report back here when I see how well they work.
Also, many people beat bearings with a hammer to seat them when an interference fit is involved. Never do this! It leads to early bearing failure. Use the correct tool to press the bearing in.
Thanks for the comment. I agree Proper installation is certainly of the utmost importance when installing any part and wheel bearings very important. The ones that I used were both labeled as premium so the price difference was not substantial between the two, the quality was. Any info you have about your experience with what you ordered is great. Let us know!
Just a tip young man..
When doing wheel bearings NEVER USE any bearings unless they are US,Canadian,Western European or Japanese origin.
India is getting better but not there yet.
MOOG is no longer(many years) a go to supplier of anything I would trust in car travelling 80mph.
Chinese bearings are great and cost effective for bicycles , lawn mowers and lazy Susans.
Awesome. Thanks for the contribution!!!
Bought timken which are supposed to be better had wheel speed sensor issues in less than a year. I replaced it with moog and it’s been on over 5 years and no problems.
Thanks for sharing your experience
Many of the OE bearings used on GM's were Timken bearings. I've seen those bearings last 200k miles when they're kept clean and maintained. If they're not super expensive, why not go back to the OE bearings for replacements.
1) Because they are super expensive, usually. 2) Because you can get some quality from the original manufacturer instead. 3) OEM aftermarket parts may not be the same thing installed at the factory, just supposed functional equivalent, sometimes called "service grade".
if I'm bothering to remove a bearing to repack, it's getting replaced!
Acdelco and GM wheel hubs made by Timken?
I put Moog in at 38k on a lifted F150 (Fomoco) got 38k before failure. Truck now has 101k and just now is making a little noise. I believe there are different quality levels of all products.
There are for sure. I had OEM ratings for all of mine. Thanks for commenting and sharing your experience! It enriches the convo for sure!👍
Had same issue with 2008 Ford Explorer front wheel bearing. Cheaper on-line bearing started to fail after about 3k miles..replaced with Timken and so far so good(4k miles).
Japanese bearings are excellent too.
You have to ask the distributor where each specific bearing is made. Moogs "were" made in USA. They are now all overseas. Timken has moved most of their production to S Korea, however for lower volume bearings they simply repackage an OEM bearing. There are no longer any manufacturers that produce all of their hub bearings in the U.S. (I have an auto repair business, and also an industrial bearing business).
Great stuff. I agree. It is important to know where it is from. Thanks for your contribution to the conversation.
I bought kryptonite hubs for my 02 Sierra and they seem to be holding up well they are USA made and have a lifetime warranty
Like you I thought I did my research and bought MOOG for my entire front end setup on my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 and discovered after I put them on that the RK series of control arms are not greaseable and are made in Taiwan. However, I also bought their hub assembly and before I put them on I took a close look at them. They are made by TIMKEN right here in the USA. Apparently MOOG recognized the problem and moved to correct it (hopefully). I just don't understand why they haven't worked through their cheap Taiwan loaded control arms by now also. According to the reviews I will be replacing these in a few months (hopefully not but more than likely will). With MOOG products I have learned to check the manufacturing label going forward.
Hopefully it is all good. Thanks for the contribution.
I was about to purchase Moog RK suspension parts for my Silverado and then discovered they also make a CK line that is far superior. Ordered those and getting ready to install.
They are supposed to be better than OEM.
Im getting both front bearing's done right now... Going with Timkin for my 15 ram 1500 Hemi.
Let us know how they do!
@@mattfixesall9000 will do! So far from mechanics shop to Firestone shop for a front end alignment. Wow feels like a whole new truck at the steering wheel. Definitely feels tighter and more responsive. Can wait to get the little slant out of the steering wheel and get it on the highway. So I can hear the silence.
I have also heard the FLEET (black) by NAPA is also pretty good. A bit expensive but good!
MOOG, TRW, ACDELCO and others get parts from all over the world.
Mexico, China, Korea, and others, many others.
The best comes from Japan.
It's a Roulette wheel when buying parts these days.
I got all 555 from Japan ball joints & tie rod ends for my 79 Datsun 620 KC.
I bought each piece from a different seller on ebay to make sure I was getting 555.
Lucky for me when I found this out a few months ago, I checked all my bushings,
control arm & leaf spring, the all came from Japan in MOOG boxes
Thanks for the contribution
555 ball joints have great reviews except for the people that use them in the poorly designed
Path finders and Four runners
@@mattfixesall9000 ,
A seller on Ebay had a 555 lower ball joint listed for sale in a white TRW box.
When the package arrived it was a CT.R, made in Korea in a black & blue
FED MOGUL box.
I yelled bait & switch and I got the one in the picture.
I now have a full set of 555 ball joints & tie rod ends. My RARE PARTS strut rod bushings were made in Japan also
Thanks for.the info. I have an 05 silverado 2wd, bought moog about 6 months ago and after close to 1k miles the noise is there again. What do you recommend these days? Asking cuz this vid is 5 years old. I'm hearing people say that Timken is also made in china these days. Thanks
I have met quite a few guys that work for Timken recently. They still make some of them on our shores. They all swear by their quality and tolerances.
You just saved my day! God bless you sir!
Thanks so much for the comment. God bless you!
In wheel/roller bearings only three brands I found have good product quality; Timken, NSK, SKF. All are among the more expensive brands and the price differential between the brands is very small. Once in while I can find an NOS Hyatt bearing was also an excellent brand. Moog quality control has gone down hill in my opinion. Sometimes the product is excellent, other times you just look at and you know it's junk. Cheap parts are a 50-50 proposition; sometimes ok, other times it's junk.
funny... on my application I have had 2 sets of SKF bearings be terrible right out of the box with the current ones (rear) having been on less than a week and have what I'd call dangerous levels of play and movement already...
@@zeroswings2 I'm sorry to hear that; I have installed SKF bearings for over 30 years and never had a problem. Are the current bearings you received made in China? All the above bearings I've gotten (NSK, Timken, SKF and though I didn't list them Bower/BCA are also good. ) I'm sorry that it appears that NSK has lost its quality control and now makes bearings in China and India and doesn't seem to import Japan made units. I will no longer purchase NSK units.
If you can find them and sometimes they are really cheap (NOS) New Departure/Hyatt USA bearings have also been a good bet, but New Departure/Hyatt bearings for normal automotive use haven't been manufactured in almost 30 years. Bought some a few years back from old parts store going out of business paid less than a dollar each. New Departure/Hyatt was a GM division.
@@oldguy2082 mixed bag really... sometimes they are from China & some I've had in the past were excellent... these last 2 sets though were horrible...
@@zeroswings2 Old comment, but I had the same issue. I replaced a bad wheel bearing with an SKF, noticeable play in the wheel within a week or two enough to cause the brake drum to begin rubbing/grinding and 'sounding the alarm'. I was sent a new bearing under warranty. The next one also had noticeable play in the wheel within 1-2 weeks. The parts distributor just issued a refund because they weren't sure they could give me a good replacement SKF.
@West-Wind Wow. Its super frustrating. I feel your pain. I hope you get something that works for it!
In the mid 1960s I worked at a jobber parts store. Mood was a sacred name in auto and truck parts. None better. I am old now and I read about what people say about Moog and it makes me so sad. My dad would turn over in his grave over what has happened to Moog.
Moog is one of those brands all the parts stores carry so if you need it now you unfortunately have no choice, it's crap. I think there's a reason they never carry OEM brands, or even timken. NAPA has SKF rebranded
I changed the passenger side whb on my crown Vic with a Duralast about a month ago and so far so good. The driver's side is now making noise so I've ordered a Timken.
Hope it's good.
How did it go?
@@mattfixesall9000 The noise stopped on it's own 🤣.
But I have the part when for when it's needed.
Awesome! Ill take the self healing all day every day !!!
Warning! There are different quality levels of AC Delco products, if it says "Advantage," that is their cheaper line and the AC Delco front hub assembly whose part number carries an "a" at the end only has a 12-month warranty... and probably does not include the highest quality bearing.
Thanks for the Contribution Mega Man!
I bought a GSP hub assembly, and it uses a timken bearing, but the timken hub bearing was $119 and the GSP hub assembly was $48.
Thats wildly inexpensive! You will have to let us know how it goes
I put Timken wheel bearings on my Titan five years ago and they're running like new.
So it turns out ball-bearing bearings are not good for trucks as they wear out faster. And since that's what moog uses, that's likely the biggest problem you ran into. Still glad I watched your video. Dropped the moogs from my cart and went with a brand that had a roller bearing design.
Thanks for your contribution!
my OEM NTN has lasted 17 years. i installed on my Infiniti G35 ,Moog, it has 3 years warranty. Timken gives only 1 year. SkF is basically same price as OEM.
17 years is a nice run! Thanks for jumping into the conversation!
@@mattfixesall9000 you are most welcome. Thank you. I just noticed SKF is only for me 10€ cheaper than OEM. In EU SkF ,they have for Nissan 350z bearing too but it does not fit to G35 ,nevertheless they share same oem product code. possibly abs sensor is different. i went on moog because of warranty but moog seem to be stuck( front).not rolling as freely as oem. can you comment that? it is 200g heavier also?
You seem to have a pretty good handle on your vehicle specifications, not sure I could add too much without being there. You could always call the manufacturer and ask them about their specifications for your specific application. They may have some good insight for you :). Hope it goes smoothly. Comment back on your experience!
Went with Timkens on my 2009 accord front and back hub assembly. It was a good choice, SKF would’ve been good too. AC delco tends to Rebox the better aftermarket manufacturers.
Thanks for contributing to the conversation!
Thank you, sir, for your honest review
Great video! Unfortunately I didn’t see this until it was too late.😢 I bought Moog hubs and ran into the same issue! 🤬
Ugh. Hopefully you can get a fix that works for you!
Timkin is the best by far! Be cautious about buying AC Delco. GM licenses the name. What you get is not necessarily the same as the original GM part that the car was built with or the part that's sold over the dealership parts counter.
True! Thanks for the comment!
Hi mat
So is timken a good product to buy.
Looking for a wheel bearing hub assembly for 2007 Chevy uplander.
Parts geek has it for $111.00 dollar plus 9.25 for shipping.
Or should I get an ACdelco brand?
Sorry for t he delayed reply. I bought an AC Delco which happened to be manufactured by Timken. It is still in good shape as i write this.
Matt Fixes All thank you Matt bought ACdelco so far no problem thanks
Great! Hopefully you get the kind of miles out of it that the factory bearing gave you. What kind of warranty did it have if you don't mind me asking?
@GOD OVER MONEY Auto Correct was probably very confused
On popular automotive parts site Timken $109 AC Delco OEM 206. I think I might try the Timken and save $100.
The casting on my new ACDelco water-pump was a complete wreck (voids and trapped sand.) I ordered a replacement and it was also very bad. It said made in Canada but that probably means assembled in Canada. The casting is probably from China.
Good to know. Thanks for contributing to the conversation!!
That s nuts
Did he just say on the AC Delco it’s stamped Timken USA on it?
Thats what i heard
Yes it was.
thank you for your video, what do you prefer? Timken o Mevotech?
My Timken experiences have all been good.
Im confused so Ac Delco is Timken? Well im glad i did ordered Ac Delco, i dont like wasting money on junk n after all the bad reviews on moog i changed my mind..thanks guys , wuts crazy is my old moog still good n i had for 3 years now n nothing wrong w it i think i got lucky b4 it changed to china this one was 🇺🇸 U.S.A made.. but im just gonna change em both at the same time to hopefully not have problems for a very long time
For my car ACdelco used a timken bearing. The Timkens can’t be beat. ACdelco may use something different for your make but they source parts from different brands frequently from what I have been told.
Sounds like you got a good bearing!
Thank you yeah ima keep it, as an emergency part minds well
Had the infamous 05 f150 4×4 replaced the front wheel bearings on both sides about 3 times on each . Seems like a yearly thing , so they said they have a "better quality " moog but it's $100 more . I get it and surprisingly it lasted 6 months . Not what I expected for the extra $100
Wheel hubs and bearings for FORD have to be replaced with MotorCraft, OEM
Umm .. I agree 100%. I, like many others, had installed my THIRD set of Chinese-Cheapo hubs/bearings, in 25,000 miles, on my Silverado. So I thought that MOOG, TIMKEN, or AC-DELCO parts would be the best. Looking around at videos, seems my old-days favorite MOOG has fallen off the wagon, as have the smaller TIMKEN bearings (no longer made by TIMKEN .. read the box), and it seems MOOG may not be the best choice for hubs. After much research, wasted money, and waaay too many hours on the garage floor hammering these bastards out, I resolve to purchase only the manufacturer's product; Like, AC-DELCO. Spend the little extra and save yourself a lot of wasted money and valuable time. Trust me on this one. But those damned beautiful, shiny, slick $25 (w/free delivery!) hubs are just soooo damned pretty! But don't be fooled, and don't be a cheap-ass like me. Get the good stuff, the first time around.
Thanks for sharing. They are not fun jobs to do let alone redo.
@matt fixes all you confused me at the end you said you went with the Timken then AC Delco OEM. So which one did you use I have a 2015 chevy impala lt limited and bought my wheel hub from auto zone and ir went bad so should I get the TIMKEN because I called the dealer and they want 400$ dollars for one
AC delco used a timken bearing fir my application. No problems after that
I’ve had 2 Moog bearing fail within two weeks. They both had under 300 miles. I’m stranded right now
Ugh. Thats brutal. I feel your pain.
The OEM bearing on my 98 Honda died...so I got a bearing from a big box autoparts store...it failed in under 2 weeks. SO I went on Summit and ordered a Timken bearing...Needless to say no more problems...Avoid Moog and Chinese crap.
Thanks for your contribution!
are you sure your timken is not made in china? If not it doesn’t matter now cause over 90% of timken is made in china now
Mine was USA made for sure.
Thanks for posting this .
Thanks for the feedback!
Im about to replace them on my wife's 2001 Dodge ram 1500 with a set of Timkens. I had replaced them a little over 50,000 miles ago with the cheap oreillys house brand and they're going bad again but that being said I guess that many miles isn't bad especially with how she drives 😬
Thanks for sharing! Sounds like a fun car ti be a passenger in!
I got the Detroit Axles... but man, i may just take that 80 dollar loss and order OEM ones from Ebay at 99.99 per wheel bearings. Still a good deal.
How did they do?
Damn..I bought Detroit axel and put them on yesterday...20 inch rims 37" MT tires...Well once I pulled my tire off I realized it was my rotors rubbing slightly on my break pads..Both the ones I pulled out are good and after cleaning them up I saw they are timken made in the USA...Guess I will be holding on to these timkens and putting them back in soon..That's my luck lol
Thanks for sharing your experience with this community! Let us know how it goes!
Thank u..I don't have as much faith in the Detroit axel I just put in after watching your video..I will say my truck feels less restricted..Like if I'm costing it feels like it's moving along easier...I'm also shifting at lower rpms again like I did before I put the 37s on...I thought the bigger tire being heavier on stock rear diff was why I was shifting at 2 rpm..I'm back to shifting at 1 1/2 RPM again...My only guess is because maybe my truck felt it was towing because the rotors where Barley touching the pads while driving so it was not moving freely like it is now after I fixed that issue..Honestly I'm kinda stumped on this one
Wow this is interesting! Glad to hear you got it fixed!
Depends on the car. Searched moogs for GM. they are made in Korea , Searched the GM AC DELCO says they are made in China. Maybe I’ll check out Timken 😂. But I must say 02 GM Tahoe with 280k miles are still going good. I just want to replace as maintenance now. I’m betting the 02 OEM were not made in Korea or China 😂
Thanks for commenting and your contribution! I bet you are right you will have to post back and let us know when you pull the old ones!
I bought Timkin for 95 Chevy k-1500 race /bearing/. It failed me in 3 years.
Dissembled to find a cheap plastic race for the tapered roller bearings. I was not happy.
Wow. Thanks for sharing!
Did you get an alignment after the swap-out? Wondering if that might have contributed.
Yep alignment is good.