Oh wow, that's the amp I grew up with, my dad owned this one. One day he gave it to me and after a while it stopped working properly, ended up on the attic and with lack of better understanding I brought it along with more stuff at the local thrift store. That was years ago, but the regret hasn't gone. Simple amp but with the memories and love now for vintage and IMO better quality audio a real miss
This was my first amplifier - bought it back in 1978. It is a budget model, not a high end one. It was a good buy, though. And a great entry point at that time :)
Ah, brilliant. I think its a nice looking amp. I wasn't too sure how high end it was and did think it was probably on the lower side. Just from the internals.
If you look around the 7:29 mark of the video, I point to the one side. I am pretty sure it was the opposite channel fused resistor. Do you have a service repair manual? As it will show the fused resistors on the diagram. This will hopefully show the ones I replaced.
Just to add an advise: when cleaning potentiometers, never use DeoxIT D5 (red label). It will dissolve the carbon resistance layer in the potentiometer. The problem will get worse and the damage to the potentiometer can only be solved by replacing it with a new potentiometer. Instead, use DeoxIT F5 (green label). F5 will clean the carbon layer without damaging it.
@@retfurb I know, I also found out the hard way, ruining a pot. What makes it unclear is that DeoxIT does not mention any warning of use on the product. But F5 is the definitely the one you need for pots.
Not quite sure what you expected inside a basic amplifier with audio processing. This is pretty well what I qould expect on a basic amp with basic tone controls. Just be a warning to people using DEOXIT. There are different versions of DEOXIT. Not just Deoxit, but cleaners in general. Some versions actually eat away the glue that holds the powdered carbon track on your Pot's. Just make sure you choose the right DEOXIT for the job :). Great video though. Some good processes here for people that do not have a schematic for the device. A Schematic would pinpoint, but sometimes you just have to work with what you have.
Thank you. Yeah, I probably was expecting more. After looking inside my TA-1150, I always think they will be similarly full. Will make a note for future videos, regarding the De-Oxit. Always appreciate additional information added to the comments, It further adds to the information. 👍
@@retfurb Yeah, the deoxit thing is something I only found out recently too. Unfortunately I can't remember which colour it is that disolves that glue, I know there are a couple of videos on YT about it. It was a bit of an eye opener for me too,
@@EsotericArctos The Deoxit D5 was the one recommended to me, For this type of use. So hopefully this is the correct one. I did see some others available, But didn't look in to them as specifically looked for the D5.
Hi, Very good video. I'm pretty new to repairing older electronics and I learned something. I wasn't aware that there was such a thing as a fuse resistor. How can you tell the difference between a regular resistor and a fuse resistor? Where is a good place to buy replacement fuse resistors and what wattage? Thanks a lot, Tom
Thank you. They are more common on some units than others. This Sony amplifier has about 8 of them in total. You will need the service manual for the system you are attempting to repair. This will show the location of fuse resistors and what specification they are. 👍
I have fixed a few Sony's etc. with out of spec fusable resistors. In short, although theoretically useful they were a bad choice back then. They drift with temperature so cause a lot of troubleshooting issues, and are actually a fire hazard. It's impossible to get a lot of the values that Sony used. So, I use metal film resistors that match the wattage spec. If they are on a power rail I calculate the max current and put an appropriate fuse in series with the resistor.
Hi there, I have what seems to be the exact same problem with my NAD C316BEE amp. Distortion through both the right speaker channel and also headphone when i plug them in. Can I ask how you know what resistors to. look for? The NAD 316 has loads so trying to narrow it down instead of having to remove them all to test them. Thanks
Yeah, It can be difficult when trying to narrow down a problem. You will need the service manual with circuit diagrams, This will then enable you to narrow down channel circuits. It will need diagnosing checking voltage etc.
@@bflsridersrepublic2999 ah, Atleast you have them to start with. Some ca be more difficult to read, than others. Just need to be safe with it, as it is obviously dangerous working on live components.
😂 Yeah, it can be a bit bulky at times. But to be fair to it, Its sometimes better than having a cable joined to it. It also heats up a lot quicker than my mains powered iron. 👍
Hello! This happened to me TWICE . First sound Amplifier was *Sankyo SRC-2020* i was just listening music, not so loud, and suddenly it got blown( i think blown) sound is ultra bad and at 100% volume seems like its 2% only. and much distortion. And then i bought a power strip with surge protection (thought it was from home electricity the problem because sometimes we have outages as a small village). Then i got my second Amplifier *AKAI AM-2850* , and suddenly today it got INSANE distortion on sound, and mostly on bass. its like it got blown... it sounds like yours. Now im watching videos how to fix and what can be the problem.. damn i cant live without my amplifier loudness :( Already tried to use a different wall outlet, changed speakers and cables , but no fix. it seems something is blown inside... but theres my question . How this happened twice in 1 week? with different amplifiers? is my home electrical problem? but lights was on, no voltage drop or outage happened when they got "blown" etc. what could be the problem that fcks my amplifiers? can you help me please ?
Ah, Sorry to hear you have had issues. Does sound a bit weird to have it happen so close to each other. Having said that. I would have thought there would be other issues, if there was power surges in the house. Im not sure how you can test for power surge from an outlet? Probably would need a house electrician to test or electrical supplier engineer.
Yes, this is what I now use. At the time, I was told to use that specific de-oxit. But after that video, I was told it is not the recommended one. Previous viewers commented on this also 👍🏻
@@greenfee100 😀 Sorry about that. Will look in to something else. Its always good to get this kind of feedback, As the last thing I want to do is make it annoying. 👍
So much bad technical practice - so little time. So far as I can tell ZERO actual troubleshooting before just tearing into it and doing stuff. How you did not ruin the meters with such careless handling I'll never understand. It was working much better at the end - surprising to me, frankly.
Thanks for the comment. All comments and opinions are welcome. To be honest there was a lot of messing around that was cut out, to save video time. The video would have been a couple hours long, If it was not cut down. Also, I do agree with the comment on the meters, I should have removed these completely. 👍
@@retfurb Sorry if I was harsh. I don't remember if this applies to your video but one thing that bugs me even with some of the best techs on RUclips is that they generally do NOT open for a visual inspection first thing, even before plugging it in. You wouldn't believe some of the things I've seen inside some of this stuff. Safety hazards.
@@mdzacharias No, It's good to get some feedback on the video. I had already had a quick look inside, Just to make sure no obvious issues. Like I said in the last reply, I did cut a lot out. Which I should have explained further in the video. I also did go through all capacitor checks, Which I don't think I mentioned at all (or showed). 👍
Such high quality content needs more viewers.
Thank you for the kind comment.
Superb work back up and running for many more years to come .
Thank you. 🙂
Excellent detailed video, brilliant how you had the patience to fault find
Thank you.
Oh wow, that's the amp I grew up with, my dad owned this one. One day he gave it to me and after a while it stopped working properly, ended up on the attic and with lack of better understanding I brought it along with more stuff at the local thrift store. That was years ago, but the regret hasn't gone. Simple amp but with the memories and love now for vintage and IMO better quality audio a real miss
@@dannyyy1012 ah, that’s a shame it went. It’s always the way, I regret selling a lot of stuff.
This was my first amplifier - bought it back in 1978. It is a budget model, not a high end one. It was a good buy, though. And a great entry point at that time :)
Ah, brilliant. I think its a nice looking amp. I wasn't too sure how high end it was and did think it was probably on the lower side. Just from the internals.
Interesting, i dont know much about electronics but i love watching repairs, especially on retro amps. Just subscribed thanks for your time and work
Ah, Thank you for the kind comments. I am glad you like the videos. 🙂
Take the cover off and run some deoxit on all the switches and knobs I did mine I had a similar problem it's gone
Good work 👌but I always like to see the schematic diagram in videos to see exactly what’s going on and how those components work in the circuit…
@@barbsblogs1563 thank you, appreciate the kind comment.
I will look into to adding links etc, for future audio work.
🙂
Thank you for the video quiet awesome.
No problem at all. Thank you very much for taking the time to write this, It is really appreciated. 🙂
Good work. Though I am surprised, that you did not adjust the bias current on the power amps, while the lid was off anyway...
Thank you. I didn’t think of that at the time 👍🏻
Excellent work my fellow holic 🤙
Thank you. The comment is appreciated. 👍
Do you remember which resistors you replaced, I have the exact problem with one channel on this amplifier.
If you look around the 7:29 mark of the video, I point to the one side. I am pretty sure it was the opposite channel fused resistor. Do you have a service repair manual? As it will show the fused resistors on the diagram. This will hopefully show the ones I replaced.
Just to add an advise: when cleaning potentiometers, never use DeoxIT D5 (red label). It will dissolve the carbon resistance layer in the potentiometer. The problem will get worse and the damage to the potentiometer can only be solved by replacing it with a new potentiometer.
Instead, use DeoxIT F5 (green label). F5 will clean the carbon layer without damaging it.
Thanks for the comment. I will bear this in mind. I previously was advised to use this type deoxit?
@@retfurb
I know, I also found out the hard way, ruining a pot. What makes it unclear is that DeoxIT does not mention any warning of use on the product. But F5 is the definitely the one you need for pots.
@@KolfMAKER Ok, Thank you. I will look in to getting some.
Not quite sure what you expected inside a basic amplifier with audio processing. This is pretty well what I qould expect on a basic amp with basic tone controls. Just be a warning to people using DEOXIT. There are different versions of DEOXIT. Not just Deoxit, but cleaners in general. Some versions actually eat away the glue that holds the powdered carbon track on your Pot's. Just make sure you choose the right DEOXIT for the job :).
Great video though. Some good processes here for people that do not have a schematic for the device. A Schematic would pinpoint, but sometimes you just have to work with what you have.
Thank you. Yeah, I probably was expecting more. After looking inside my TA-1150, I always think they will be similarly full. Will make a note for future videos, regarding the De-Oxit. Always appreciate additional information added to the comments, It further adds to the information. 👍
@@retfurb Yeah, the deoxit thing is something I only found out recently too. Unfortunately I can't remember which colour it is that disolves that glue, I know there are a couple of videos on YT about it. It was a bit of an eye opener for me too,
@@EsotericArctos The Deoxit D5 was the one recommended to me, For this type of use. So hopefully this is the correct one. I did see some others available, But didn't look in to them as specifically looked for the D5.
Hi,
Very good video. I'm pretty new to repairing older electronics and I learned something. I wasn't aware that there was such a thing as a fuse resistor. How can you tell the difference between a regular resistor and a fuse resistor? Where is a good place to buy replacement fuse resistors and what wattage?
Thanks a lot, Tom
Thank you. They are more common on some units than others. This Sony amplifier has about 8 of them in total. You will need the service manual for the system you are attempting to repair. This will show the location of fuse resistors and what specification they are. 👍
@@retfurb Thanks so much for the quick reply. I should be able to find a service manual online, I would think.
@@THOMMGB No problems. If you need any help, Please let me know. They are relatively easy to find.
I have fixed a few Sony's etc. with out of spec fusable resistors. In short, although theoretically useful they were a bad choice back then. They drift with temperature so cause a lot of troubleshooting issues, and are actually a fire hazard. It's impossible to get a lot of the values that Sony used. So, I use metal film resistors that match the wattage spec. If they are on a power rail I calculate the max current and put an appropriate fuse in series with the resistor.
@@peterlarkin762 Thank you for this information. 🙂👍
Nice vid....cheers.
Thank you for the kind comment.👍
Hi there, I have what seems to be the exact same problem with my NAD C316BEE amp. Distortion through both the right speaker channel and also headphone when i plug them in. Can I ask how you know what resistors to. look for? The NAD 316 has loads so trying to narrow it down instead of having to remove them all to test them. Thanks
Yeah, It can be difficult when trying to narrow down a problem. You will need the service manual with circuit diagrams, This will then enable you to narrow down channel circuits.
It will need diagnosing checking voltage etc.
Ok cool, I have the service manual with the circuit diagrams. I guess I need to learn how to read them ;) @@retfurb
@@bflsridersrepublic2999 ah, Atleast you have them to start with.
Some ca be more difficult to read, than others.
Just need to be safe with it, as it is obviously dangerous working on live components.
I laughed when I saw the Milwaukie soldering iron,bet that was arse heavy
😂 Yeah, it can be a bit bulky at times. But to be fair to it, Its sometimes better than having a cable joined to it. It also heats up a lot quicker than my mains powered iron. 👍
Hello! This happened to me TWICE .
First sound Amplifier was *Sankyo SRC-2020*
i was just listening music, not so loud, and suddenly it got blown( i think blown)
sound is ultra bad and at 100% volume seems like its 2% only. and much distortion.
And then i bought a power strip with surge protection (thought it was from home electricity the problem because sometimes we have outages as a small village).
Then i got my second Amplifier *AKAI AM-2850* ,
and suddenly today it got INSANE distortion on sound, and mostly on bass. its like it got blown... it sounds like yours.
Now im watching videos how to fix and what can be the problem.. damn i cant live without my amplifier loudness :(
Already tried to use a different wall outlet, changed speakers and cables , but no fix. it seems something is blown inside...
but theres my question .
How this happened twice in 1 week? with different amplifiers? is my home electrical problem? but lights was on, no voltage drop or outage happened when they got "blown" etc.
what could be the problem that fcks my amplifiers? can you help me please ?
Ah, Sorry to hear you have had issues. Does sound a bit weird to have it happen so close to each other.
Having said that. I would have thought there would be other issues, if there was power surges in the house.
Im not sure how you can test for power surge from an outlet? Probably would need a house electrician to test or electrical supplier engineer.
okay! thanks for fast reply!!
What about amplifier? it needs a professional hand too? or its something that i can solder/replace? @@retfurb
@@6ixss It would need someone who knows what they are looking at. Obviously it is a safety hazard, If you don't know what you are doing.
well you're right..@@retfurb
Handling on those needle exposed VU meters is not ideal. Those are fragile, just desolder wires, don't remove from the front panel.
Yeah, I agree. In hindsight, I should have removed them. I won't make the same mistake again, When working with similar meters. 👍
Easiest way to calibrate the VU meters is use a signal generator, not that these would have been very accurate from new!
Ah, ok. Thanks or the additional info 🙂. I have not worked with them previously, So I tried to do it the best I could by manually adjusting. 👍
Do not use D5 on pots!! Use F5 instead!
Yes, this is what I now use.
At the time, I was told to use that specific de-oxit. But after that video, I was told it is not the recommended one. Previous viewers commented on this also 👍🏻
Great video but that bloody up and down music is so annoying.
Thank you. Do you mean the background music? 🙂. I am looking in to getting something different set up soon.
@@retfurb yes it's so annoying.
Your video is otherwise great😊👍👍👍
@@greenfee100 😀 Sorry about that. Will look in to something else.
Its always good to get this kind of feedback, As the last thing I want to do is make it annoying. 👍
What music would suit you better?
? @@ChillToMusic87
So much bad technical practice - so little time. So far as I can tell ZERO actual troubleshooting before just tearing into it and doing stuff. How you did not ruin the meters with such careless handling I'll never understand. It was working much better at the end - surprising to me, frankly.
Thanks for the comment. All comments and opinions are welcome. To be honest there was a lot of messing around that was cut out, to save video time. The video would have been a couple hours long, If it was not cut down.
Also, I do agree with the comment on the meters, I should have removed these completely. 👍
@@retfurb Sorry if I was harsh. I don't remember if this applies to your video but one thing that bugs me even with some of the best techs on RUclips is that they generally do NOT open for a visual inspection first thing, even before plugging it in. You wouldn't believe some of the things I've seen inside some of this stuff. Safety hazards.
@@mdzacharias No, It's good to get some feedback on the video. I had already had a quick look inside, Just to make sure no obvious issues. Like I said in the last reply, I did cut a lot out. Which I should have explained further in the video. I also did go through all capacitor checks, Which I don't think I mentioned at all (or showed). 👍