Joe, I know this is an old video, but you can't believe how valuable your teaching is! I'm a hobby machinist and in process of building my first flame licker engine. Needed some ideas on clamping work to the table, tried glue and tape but eventually the toe clamp was what I needed to see. I always check your youtube first when I need advice and so far you've never failed! Great job and keep it up. I'm sure a LOT of folks get the same help, I just wanted to give a shout out. Truman
Thanks for this video Joe! My memory was ringing and searching for this video payed off. We are a couple of guys that renovates a veteran steam locomotive. Both the cylinders and the cylindrical slide valves have been bored to a larger dimension, needing several parts to be remade. We need to reduce the mass of the new, premade, steam slide valve pistons to half the current weight. The old pistons have 4 cut outs, not going all the way through. I'll post a link of this video to our chief machinist (former oil platform support ship, now a train engineer) and suggest him to have a look. Cross Your fingers Joe! I'll try to come back some day and report.
@@joepie221 Sorry but no shop work, no pics. One member found somebody having a CNC that will do the work for free. Anyway, You and Your videos (2) have been watched by a quite skilled guy.
Thanks Joe sometimes things fall into place e.g. the heart shape, I remember way back in 1974 at school making a pen on the lathe the tool dug in leaving a beautiful spiral shape, with the best chatter mark just where the finger grip is, thank god for the foot brake, the look on the teachers face was priceless, he didn't like me, his comment was "Smith some people will cruise through life" so far its been pretty good cheers from OZ.
Thanks Joe. I just used this video to work out how to make a steering wheel from a slice of bar. 5 spokes, and 1.4" diameter - for a 1/12 steam traction engine. As always its easy when you know how.. And now I know how of course
again very nice. i was surprised on the last video the deflection of the cutter showed up on the inner OD. that why the spring pass, just proves that everything is made of cheese! thanks again, nice work and thought process.
You big soppy, with the hearts ❣Loads of tips as ever, great series, thanks for doing all three versikns, waiting for my mind to be blown on number three (I pretty much worked out the steps, without the finesse, of these first two, got no clue on the third)👍
You Mr. Pie are a master of your craft and you put out some great video content and I for one watch all of it and learn alot of technique. Thank you very much for sharing the wisdom.
I Will Have To Say That This Video Is A # 1 !!! Glitter Factor And Camera Work Ate Much Improving !!! Whats Not To Like , Seventeen Thumbs Up !!! I May Have To Watch It One More Time !!!!
Hello Joe you left a comment on Small Metalworking Machines for the Cheap Drill Press converted to Milling Machine video. I am glad you did. I came over and watched one video and subscribed. Keep up the good work.
Another excellent video to learn from Joe. Can you please tell me what is your choice of blasting media (material,grit size) and what is your primary use for it (finish or paint prep etc.)? Or even better make a video on that subject.
Very interesting, really great video. You never cease to amaze me with your knowledge and craftsmanship. I'm glad you showed us how to do both of these before the third one. Great info on both of them. I can't wait to see the next one. Thank you for sharing this with all of us. Dan
That blast cabinet has been a life saver. Great piece of equipment to have in the shop. Only negative would be the big compressor expense you need to push it.
Sweet vid joe, the heart thing every other spoke is pretty cool lookin. Local newspaper had an add for a cnc job, calling tomorrow hoping to get my feet wet, all the things ive learned from you, ave, this old tony, John saunders, hass, im sure will help me seem like a good fit. Not many jobs that you can do what you love and get paid for it, if all goes well ill be having my fun 6-5 and relaxing at home haha.
Those low profile rims are really cool until you hit a curb.... or a pothole. Hahaha!!! Informative as always. Thanks Joe. A rotary table is the next item on my must have list.
@@bruce_c_in_nz It's not just the money I also have many other interests, I like to build things in and out of the shop. In short I'm moving in many different directions all the time. But thanks for caring and the thought. Richard
Thanks as always Joe. I need to make a couple of new wheels for my bandsaw (wood cutting) I built 20 odd years ago. The current wheels are made from layers of ply wood turned by my late father and the ply is delaminating now. I was thinking of using aluminum plate as you guys call it. Sandwiching layers to get the bearing boss and rim thicknesses etc I can do all the circular machining of the wheels on my lathe but would love to include features like these spokes. I have a mill with a DRO but do not have a rotary table. I could use coordinates and use a boring head to generate the large end of the flared hole, not as pretty as a concentric radius but would look ok I guess. But at some point I would still need to index the part around to machine the spokes. Any thoughts on how similar features could be done without a rotary table? Simple indexing setup? (Actually a thought I just had......mount the plate on a fixture so the wheel can rotate using the center hole of the wheel. Use coordinates to drill index holes around the work (or the fixture?) at a suitable radius. Index the work by rotating it on its center pivot and align the index holes using a pin in the chuck and clamp the work at each position.) Make sense? Any other ideas? Good topic for another video - spoked wheel without a rotary table? Love your channel!
@@CraigsWorkshop I like your idea of the 2 cylindrical squares (or 2 pins or 2 of any type of point, edge etc when you think of it) to constrain rotation referencing off the diameter. Even if there is a center hole it could be easier than setting up the correct diameter pin to rotate on.
Could you do a video on blending tips? When you pointed out that you pull away from the radius to keep the bit from digging in when you stop, I had to back the tape up to see that subtlety. Then I was trying to visualize how it looks on the hand wheels. I assume you backed the Y-axis away while continuing the rotation on the Z-axis. Thanks, Chris
Hi Joe, I've been waiting to see you do this video and compare it to the way I did the flywheel for my engine. However, I had one more challenge, The radius between the spokes at the hub is larger than the radius at the rim end of the spoke. I'd like too see how you would approach this. It took me a day or so of thinking to figure it out. Thanks great series.
Again, you make it look easy and almost sexy! I need to find a rotary table now just to make some chips (yes I know it will take at least 3 trys....lol) trying to make these! Thanks very much Joe! You really are helping out us new (old ) guys!👍👍👍👍
Could you do a video on blending. When you pointed out that you pulled away to keep the bit from digging in while stopping, I had to back the video up to see that subtlety. Then I was trying to visualize how it looked on the hand wheels. I assume that you backed away on the Y-axis while continuing the rotation on the Z-axis. A video that focuses on subtle blending tips like this would probably be a major help to improve results to us novice hobby machinists. Thanks, Chris
Always love your videos. So informative & well produced. Just one question - why do you plunge at each end of a line, then run along the line, instead of just one plunge followed by the line cut. Thanks.
Tool deflection. Moving sideways, the cutting load flexes the cutter then the wall of the corner radius wouldn't be as square to the spindle. A vertical plunge avoids that.
How would you relieve the spokes on the other side of the wheel? Spokes are usually central to the hub not flat on one side. I presume you'd have to put it back on the rotary and indicate it for true rotation and repeat the relieving process? A central hole might have been useful for that (you're probably going to want one anyway).
Sound like an F1 track out there sometimes. I have a redlight 100 yards south of my shop that feeds a 2 mile straight away. My building is 25 feet off the highway. Perfect recipe for heavy feet.
Hey Joe:Instead of using a nice piece of aluminum as a spoil plate try 1/2 or 3/4 MDF. It's remarkably flat and uniform thickness (less than a thou) and is really cheap - well comparatively speaking.Your tip for the day. :-) Thanks for showing your process of the flywheels.
Off topic - Have you done a video on the details of using an edge finder and/or wiggler? I never understood how they worked. It always seemed to me that you should stop when they run true, that continuing until they kick off would be too far. Until I looked really closely and realized that the tool kicks off TO THE SIDE of the direction of travel, due to friction of the parts in contact and the rotation of the tool. At least I think that's what's happening. Love your videos, working my way through them one at a time...
John, I think it may be what's referred to as "motion aftereffect". When the actual motion stops the motion aftereffect tends to look like the reverse motion. My business used to package a lot of computer chips on long reels of tape. It was always fun to watch someone run the machine for the first time. After concentrating on putting parts into the moving tape for a while, the machine would stop and you would swear the tape started moving in the opposite direction. I had one young man grab the tape and yell, "How do I keep it from running back out of the machine!!". Those of us in the know had a good chuckle.
I have always found that a good heavy cut with some WD-40 or other oil gets the old stuff off with the friction of the new stuff. Carbide dry on aluminum is never my first choice.
Joe Pie-I guess I just don't understand all the math and what goes with it in all the cnc stuff but it is impressive to watch. I wish I had your channel 20 years ago when I was trying to teach myself machining with my old mill and lathe but I was able to build a few models. Now my eyes are mostly gone and the machines are rusting away.
Carbide end mill the center out. Slowly peck at it by raising the table in small increments, not dropping the quill. Remove the excess as you go. Pick out the big chunks or they will jam and break your cutter.
Actually the cannon wheels I need to make are 7 segments with 2 spokes in each segment. Those wheels were not one piece. They were complex assemblies. I am trying to be accurate with the model. I'll record the build, but it will be a while.
is there a way to smoothly incline the spokes to the center on the mill (thicker at the center than at the rim). I'm currently transferring a very flat 3 degree cone part from the lathe then bring it to the mill to make the radial features. 2 setups are killing me haha
What project do you have in mind to use these spoked wheels, it's a shame to waste them... I have trouble many times with the camera, when the cutter is turning in the wrong direction I come out of my seat, I know better, but can not accept it without momentary panic.. Thanks for your time and efforts. Aloha
I am located on the east side of the big island, if you get bored I would love to have an eyeball QSO and talk story, if not enjoy, Hawaii has some good diving, not as good as the Cook Is. in my view, but better than most. my phone is 808-982-7563 what ever works out for you. Enjoy, He pomaika`i `ia mai ke Akua, Chuck...Ah7y
Two questions. I noticed that you ran the cuter twice through the same cut when making the spokes. I also noticed that even the second pass removed material. Was this because of the nature of a climb cut versus a conventional cut? Or was this spring cut such as that which would be done on a lathe to remove material left behind due to the spring of the material or cutter durring the initial cut? . My second question is - how did you chuck that part up in your lathe such that you could polish the outside of the rim? Thanks for your videos. I always learn a lot when I watch them.
Excellent questions. In a climb cut, the cutter will always flex in the direction of rotation. technically this leave material behind, but also leaves a slightly tapered surface because of the flex. the second cut allows for the cutter to relax and form the vertical as well as removing the extra bit of material left behind. when I did the OD of this rim, I actually put the small center boss in a collet. You could also pressure turn the OD and achieve the same result.
It always surprises me how a big tough hardened tool steel cutter can flex, especially cutting something soft like Aluminium. But of course it does, and now I understand more about why. As for the other question I think I need to spend more time understanding collets, as they can do more with less material than I thought they could. I had totaly forgotten about pressure turning, but I could have sworn I had learned somthing about it in the past. A quick Google reminded me that I had, from another of your videos no less! Thanks for all the great videos. Its nice to know that you don't need a cnc machine for everything. Now I just need to find an affordable rotary table. Cheers, Leo.
Thank you Joe for the awesome video as usual. One thing I'd like to say though is to a non machinist or a novice machinist this is stillVudu to watch we don't know what the hell you're doing LOL. For example do you pre calculate all of the plunge points write them down and then go to those points based off of a dro? It seems to me you would have to have this entire object mapped outand we didn't really see this in the video although I miss the very beginning maybe I should go back. I was taking my dog outside LOL
In my experience, which is not that much - I am an apprentice machinist - once you have a look at the geometry of a circular part with fairly symmetrical features on the drawing, and work out a few measurements you can often see a pattern you follow, based around the center 0, 0 DRO position (the centre of the part), that is largely repeated for each quarter, or eight of the circle. For example, you might move the DRO to X 20, Y 20, and then the next symmetrical feature might be at X-20, Y20, the next at X -20 Y -20, and the last at X 20, Y -20. And the same goes for the geometry of the features you make at these points - they will have fairly similar DRO movements to make and numbers to hit. This is not always the case, but in alot of cases this kind if working where you repeat the same macro set of movements, but just starting in different quadrants of the circle can leave you with a part that looks very very complicated to try and think about how it was made. So it is good to work out all your DRO locations to hit before you start cutting, but sometimes you only need to do this once for the basic pattern and then work out the starting point for where to repeat this pattern again - rather than having DRO points explicitly written for every single feature.
I would imagine you have to pay close attention to backlash on this part. When cutting the windows, the centre axis of the rotary table is never in line with spindle centre. It looks like you should have to line up rotary table centre with either x or y axis to prevent a cosine error on final OD (if its important). Am I right or just taking rubbish there?
Hi Worth. A true carriage wheel for my cannon is actually a 7 segment outer wheel with 2 spokes in each segment. This results in a 14 spoke wheel. Did I forget to mention they were also dished about 5 degrees? I started doing the math on these requirements and gained a new respect for the guys that did this without computers or CAD back in the day. True craftsman. And you are correct. LOTS of numbers !! LOTS.
nice work as always!
Hey Tony. Thanks for stopping by. I appreciate the comment.
Your channel is really awesome! I always look forward to seeing what you can show us beginners! Really appreciate ya!
I learn so much from just watching you work. Thank you.👍
Joe, I know this is an old video, but you can't believe how valuable your teaching is!
I'm a hobby machinist and in process of building my first flame licker engine. Needed some ideas on clamping work to the table, tried glue and tape but eventually the toe clamp was what I needed to see.
I always check your youtube first when I need advice and so far you've never failed! Great job and keep it up. I'm sure a LOT of folks get the same help, I just wanted to give a shout out.
Truman
Thanks Truman. I appreciate the trust.
Really cool Joe I watch this one every time I use the rotary table
Thanks for this video Joe! My memory was ringing and searching for this video payed off.
We are a couple of guys that renovates a veteran steam locomotive. Both the cylinders and the cylindrical slide valves have been bored to a larger dimension, needing several parts to be remade.
We need to reduce the mass of the new, premade, steam slide valve pistons to half the current weight. The old pistons have 4 cut outs, not going all the way through. I'll post a link of this video to our chief machinist (former oil platform support ship, now a train engineer) and suggest him to have a look. Cross Your fingers Joe! I'll try to come back some day and report.
Interesting. Keep me posted and feel free to ask video specific questions if they come up. I have a lot of filter control and a heck of a memory.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe! Sure I'll do! You helped my earlier, how to cut fine, left hand threads and it turned out perfectly.
@@joepie221 I certainly will do so. Hopefully sending some pics when we've done the job.
@@joepie221 Sorry but no shop work, no pics. One member found somebody having a CNC that will do the work for free.
Anyway, You and Your videos (2) have been watched by a quite skilled guy.
Thanks Joe sometimes things fall into place e.g. the heart shape, I remember way back in 1974 at school making a pen on the lathe the tool dug in leaving a beautiful spiral shape, with the best chatter mark just where the finger grip is, thank god for the foot brake, the look on the teachers face was priceless, he didn't like me, his comment was "Smith some people will cruise through life" so far its been pretty good cheers from OZ.
Thanks Joe. I just used this video to work out how to make a steering wheel from a slice of bar. 5 spokes, and 1.4" diameter - for a 1/12 steam traction engine. As always its easy when you know how.. And now I know how of course
Check out the emblem video I made for Chuck Tipton, then go look at his traction engine video. WOW.
Sigh. Would have never dawned on me to manipulate the clamps as you did to make this part. So simple too. Thanks for another great lesson
again very nice. i was surprised on the last video the deflection of the cutter showed up on the inner OD. that why the spring pass, just proves that everything is made of cheese! thanks again, nice work and thought process.
You big soppy, with the hearts ❣Loads of tips as ever, great series, thanks for doing all three versikns, waiting for my mind to be blown on number three (I pretty much worked out the steps, without the finesse, of these first two, got no clue on the third)👍
Great stuff & enjoying learning about this.
FWIW, in the Jewellery trade we'd call that kind of pattern a "Hearts & Arrows".
regards Colin
You Mr. Pie are a master of your craft and you put out some great video content and I for one watch all of it and learn alot of technique. Thank you very much for sharing the wisdom.
thank you.
Great series with the rotary table! Thanks Joe.
Great stuff Joe, I learn something every time.
I Will Have To Say That This Video Is A # 1 !!! Glitter Factor And Camera Work Ate Much Improving !!! Whats Not To Like , Seventeen Thumbs Up !!! I May Have To Watch It One More Time !!!!
Thank you. This one took a lot of editing to keep it moving along.
Hello Joe you left a comment on Small Metalworking Machines
for the Cheap Drill Press converted to Milling Machine video. I am glad you did. I came over and watched one video and subscribed. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the sub and support. Much appreciated.
Another excellent video to learn from Joe. Can you please tell me what is your choice of blasting media (material,grit size) and what is your primary use for it (finish or paint prep etc.)? Or even better make a video on that subject.
Nice part. The finish after the blaster looks good. I'm going to attempt this for my brass Canon. Thanks!
Very interesting, really great video. You never cease to amaze me with your knowledge and craftsmanship. I'm glad you showed us how to do both of these before the third one. Great info on both of them. I can't wait to see the next one. Thank you for sharing this with all of us. Dan
Thanks Dan. Thats about 2 videos away.
Great work and content Joe. The blast cabinet is very nice.
That blast cabinet has been a life saver. Great piece of equipment to have in the shop. Only negative would be the big compressor expense you need to push it.
Excellent Joe. Thanks for the demo, I can now get to making the flywheel for my traction engine. I'll not have any hearts though if that's OK?
Great video Joe! Wheel turned out super nice.👍👍
Thanks. I should have stacked 2 pieces and finished with a set.
Sweet vid joe, the heart thing every other spoke is pretty cool lookin. Local newspaper had an add for a cnc job, calling tomorrow hoping to get my feet wet, all the things ive learned from you, ave, this old tony, John saunders, hass, im sure will help me seem like a good fit. Not many jobs that you can do what you love and get paid for it, if all goes well ill be having my fun 6-5 and relaxing at home haha.
Good luck.
Wonderful Joe - thanks again for another great demo.
Those low profile rims are really cool until you hit a curb.... or a pothole. Hahaha!!! Informative as always. Thanks Joe. A rotary table is the next item on my must have list.
Fun project, interesting result. Thanks Joe.
we need to see the 7 segment ones Joe!
The best I can come up with is 51 degrees and 45 minutes right now and it is off.
Sould be something under 30 minutes not 45.
Forgot to convert .5 degrees to minutes.
They will take a lot of effort. I do plan to shoot it, but those will be a while. Thanks for stopping by Emma.
Nice! I only wish I had a mill... but then there is the tooling I'd have to buy. But at 73 all I can do is dream.... Thank you!
That's about the age I was when I bought my first mill. And I'm not loaded with $$$$.
@@bruce_c_in_nz It's not just the money I also have many other interests, I like to build things in and out of the shop. In short I'm moving in many different directions all the time. But thanks for caring and the thought. Richard
Thanks as always Joe.
I need to make a couple of new wheels for my bandsaw (wood cutting) I built 20 odd years ago. The current wheels are made from layers of ply wood turned by my late father and the ply is delaminating now.
I was thinking of using aluminum plate as you guys call it. Sandwiching layers to get the bearing boss and rim thicknesses etc
I can do all the circular machining of the wheels on my lathe but would love to include features like these spokes.
I have a mill with a DRO but do not have a rotary table.
I could use coordinates and use a boring head to generate the large end of the flared hole, not as pretty as a concentric radius but would look ok I guess. But at some point I would still need to index the part around to machine the spokes.
Any thoughts on how similar features could be done without a rotary table? Simple indexing setup?
(Actually a thought I just had......mount the plate on a fixture so the wheel can rotate using the center hole of the wheel. Use coordinates to drill index holes around the work (or the fixture?) at a suitable radius. Index the work by rotating it on its center pivot and align the index holes using a pin in the chuck and clamp the work at each position.)
Make sense? Any other ideas?
Good topic for another video - spoked wheel without a rotary table?
Love your channel!
@@CraigsWorkshop I like your idea of the 2 cylindrical squares (or 2 pins or 2 of any type of point, edge etc when you think of it) to constrain rotation referencing off the diameter. Even if there is a center hole it could be easier than setting up the correct diameter pin to rotate on.
How about a router with a carbide cutter and a template ??
Small bites and a squirt of wd40 or kerosene and I'd say it would work !
😎👍☘️
Excellent demo mate, much appreciated
Could you do a video on blending tips? When you pointed out that you pull away from the radius to keep the bit from digging in when you stop, I had to back the tape up to see that subtlety. Then I was trying to visualize how it looks on the hand wheels. I assume you backed the Y-axis away while continuing the rotation on the Z-axis. Thanks, Chris
Hi Joe, I've been waiting to see you do this video and compare it to the way I did the flywheel for my engine. However, I had one more challenge, The radius between the spokes at the hub is larger than the radius at the rim end of the spoke. I'd like too see how you would approach this. It took me a day or so of thinking to figure it out.
Thanks great series.
Hi Chuck. Good to hear from you. Sounds like a job for 2 cutters and a little more math. I believe that is how I would do it.
Hey Joe, I wish the camera was on the column looking straight at the front. Just saying, you make awesome & informative videos.
Denny Skerb , It would be nice to see what joes view is. Like a helmet camera.
I actually also had a GoPro rolling on this one directly in my line of sight. I had considered posting it, but it would be long.
Again, you make it look easy and almost sexy! I need to find a rotary table now just to make some chips (yes I know it will take at least 3 trys....lol) trying to make these! Thanks very much Joe! You really are helping out us new (old ) guys!👍👍👍👍
Could you do a video on blending. When you pointed out that you pulled away to keep the bit from digging in while stopping, I had to back the video up to see that subtlety. Then I was trying to visualize how it looked on the hand wheels. I assume that you backed away on the Y-axis while continuing the rotation on the Z-axis. A video that focuses on subtle blending tips like this would probably be a major help to improve results to us novice hobby machinists. Thanks, Chris
thanks for these videos i have some handles to do soon.
these have helped big time now time to start doing them
Always love your videos. So informative & well produced. Just one question - why do you plunge at each end of a line, then run along the line, instead of just one plunge followed by the line cut. Thanks.
Tool deflection. Moving sideways, the cutting load flexes the cutter then the wall of the corner radius wouldn't be as square to the spindle. A vertical plunge avoids that.
It also allow for a relaxed resting area at the end of the cut. No chatter and better finish.
Excellent, informative and much appreciated video.
How would you relieve the spokes on the other side of the wheel? Spokes are usually central to the hub not flat on one side. I presume you'd have to put it back on the rotary and indicate it for true rotation and repeat the relieving process? A central hole might have been useful for that (you're probably going to want one anyway).
Do it in the lathe.
Nice to watch. So did Texas DOT run a road through the back of your shop?
Sound like an F1 track out there sometimes. I have a redlight 100 yards south of my shop that feeds a 2 mile straight away. My building is 25 feet off the highway. Perfect recipe for heavy feet.
Hey Joe:Instead of using a nice piece of aluminum as a spoil plate try 1/2 or 3/4 MDF. It's remarkably flat and uniform thickness (less than a thou) and is really cheap - well comparatively speaking.Your tip for the day. :-)
Thanks for showing your process of the flywheels.
Off topic - Have you done a video on the details of using an edge finder and/or wiggler? I never understood how they worked. It always seemed to me that you should stop when they run true, that continuing until they kick off would be too far. Until I looked really closely and realized that the tool kicks off TO THE SIDE of the direction of travel, due to friction of the parts in contact and the rotation of the tool. At least I think that's what's happening. Love your videos, working my way through them one at a time...
Hey Joe ; Is there a name for the phenomenon of the appearance that the workpiece is still rotating after you have stopped turning the rotary table?
John, I think it may be what's referred to as "motion aftereffect". When the actual motion stops the motion aftereffect tends to look like the reverse motion. My business used to package a lot of computer chips on long reels of tape. It was always fun to watch someone run the machine for the first time. After concentrating on putting parts into the moving tape for a while, the machine would stop and you would swear the tape started moving in the opposite direction. I had one young man grab the tape and yell, "How do I keep it from running back out of the machine!!". Those of us in the know had a good chuckle.
I know there is. Tanda may be right. I see it while doing this, and usually have to quick check the index marks to confirm its just an illusion.
Thanks Joe another great video
That was really cool. Thank you for sharing.
Wow, got this in too,,,🤐 Ugh,,here comes my bride,,will finish later,,great looking wagon,,loved the heart in it,Bear
That heart was an unexpected feature.
At 2:08 IT screamed "please dont drill my eye!" Lol. Cool peoject
An other excellent video.Thank you.
Hey Joe, how do you go about cleaning the aluminum from you carbide mills? Oh, cool videos, I always love watching.
I have always found that a good heavy cut with some WD-40 or other oil gets the old stuff off with the friction of the new stuff. Carbide dry on aluminum is never my first choice.
@@joepie221 Good morning, thanks for that info. I've never used carbide end mills, it will happen eventually.
Great. Looks very nice. Lesson learned.
It looks great! Thank you.
I enjoy watching your videos, especially the tiny parts but the CnC stuff makes my brain hurt. You do great work!!!
It can make my brain hurt as well. thanks for watching and for the compliment.
Joe Pie-I guess I just don't understand all the math and what goes with it in all the cnc stuff but it is impressive to watch. I wish I had your channel 20 years ago when I was trying to teach myself machining with my old mill and lathe but I was able to build a few models. Now my eyes are mostly gone and the machines are rusting away.
Looks very good Joe. Do you have any tricks up your sleeve on how to extract broken taps seams to be the story of my life lately.
Carbide end mill the center out. Slowly peck at it by raising the table in small increments, not dropping the quill. Remove the excess as you go. Pick out the big chunks or they will jam and break your cutter.
Thanks Joe! Are you going to make a 7 spoke demo? It would be non-symmetrical and might show other skills. Thanks again!
Actually the cannon wheels I need to make are 7 segments with 2 spokes in each segment. Those wheels were not one piece. They were complex assemblies. I am trying to be accurate with the model. I'll record the build, but it will be a while.
@@joepie221 Sound great!
is there a way to smoothly incline the spokes to the center on the mill (thicker at the center than at the rim). I'm currently transferring a very flat 3 degree cone part from the lathe then bring it to the mill to make the radial features. 2 setups are killing me haha
Would it have been more difficult to cut 4 slots... 2 on each side of center, at a time, instead of indexing each spoke one at a time?
Not at all. that would have worked just fine. More numbers to keep track of, but 4 cuts instead of 8 for sure. Good call.
What project do you have in mind to use these spoked wheels, it's a shame to waste them... I have trouble many times with the camera, when the cutter is turning in the wrong direction I come out of my seat, I know better, but can not accept it without momentary panic.. Thanks for your time and efforts. Aloha
Aloha?? I'm headed to Maui in a few weeks.
I am located on the east side of the big island, if you get bored I would love to have an eyeball QSO and talk story, if not enjoy, Hawaii has some good diving, not as good as the Cook Is. in my view, but better than most. my phone is 808-982-7563 what ever works out for you. Enjoy, He pomaika`i `ia mai ke Akua, Chuck...Ah7y
Two questions. I noticed that you ran the cuter twice through the same cut when making the spokes. I also noticed that even the second pass removed material. Was this because of the nature of a climb cut versus a conventional cut? Or was this spring cut such as that which would be done on a lathe to remove material left behind due to the spring of the material or cutter durring the initial cut?
.
My second question is - how did you chuck that part up in your lathe such that you could polish the outside of the rim?
Thanks for your videos. I always learn a lot when I watch them.
Excellent questions. In a climb cut, the cutter will always flex in the direction of rotation. technically this leave material behind, but also leaves a slightly tapered surface because of the flex. the second cut allows for the cutter to relax and form the vertical as well as removing the extra bit of material left behind. when I did the OD of this rim, I actually put the small center boss in a collet. You could also pressure turn the OD and achieve the same result.
It always surprises me how a big tough hardened tool steel cutter can flex, especially cutting something soft like Aluminium. But of course it does, and now I understand more about why. As for the other question I think I need to spend more time understanding collets, as they can do more with less material than I thought they could. I had totaly forgotten about pressure turning, but I could have sworn I had learned somthing about it in the past. A quick Google reminded me that I had, from another of your videos no less! Thanks for all the great videos. Its nice to know that you don't need a cnc machine for everything. Now I just need to find an affordable rotary table.
Cheers,
Leo.
Young inexperienced manufacturing engineers get bit by this fact everyday. you wouldn't think cutters flex, but they sure do.
If I ever build a miniature Cadillac Escalade, you’ll be my wheel man
I'm in.
Nicely done.
very cool , nice work and great lesson, thanks ,,
Joe your wheel genometery would make the Flint Stones jelious all's they had is hammer and STONES .🔔🔔🔔🙌. Hello Nick the pootch .
Thanks for sharing great job!!!
I see is a fly reel spool plate. Very cool.
So Cool!!! Thanks for sharing!
I learned something today and I did not want to. Super
Very nice Joe.
Awesome video
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Watching in Alabama
Thanks.
Looks ace
Very nice
Hi Mike. Those coasters you sent me get a lot of use and are holding up very well. Hope all is well with you and your crew.
Thank you Joe . My wife & I just got our confirmation on the summer bash . Hope too meet you there.
I look forward to it.
Any suggestions on a good beginner ro-tab? ~Britt from Houston.
I like these Phase II tables.
How did you chuck that up in the lathe to clean up the edges?
Pressure turned with a live center
What blast media are you using? I'm having a hard time finding media I like. Thanks.
#6 glass
Thanks for sharing..
Thank you Joe for the awesome video as usual. One thing I'd like to say though is to a non machinist or a novice machinist this is stillVudu to watch we don't know what the hell you're doing LOL. For example do you pre calculate all of the plunge points write them down and then go to those points based off of a dro? It seems to me you would have to have this entire object mapped outand we didn't really see this in the video although I miss the very beginning maybe I should go back. I was taking my dog outside LOL
In my experience, which is not that much - I am an apprentice machinist - once you have a look at the geometry of a circular part with fairly symmetrical features on the drawing, and work out a few measurements you can often see a pattern you follow, based around the center 0, 0 DRO position (the centre of the part), that is largely repeated for each quarter, or eight of the circle. For example, you might move the DRO to X 20, Y 20, and then the next symmetrical feature might be at X-20, Y20, the next at X -20 Y -20, and the last at X 20, Y -20. And the same goes for the geometry of the features you make at these points - they will have fairly similar DRO movements to make and numbers to hit. This is not always the case, but in alot of cases this kind if working where you repeat the same macro set of movements, but just starting in different quadrants of the circle can leave you with a part that looks very very complicated to try and think about how it was made.
So it is good to work out all your DRO locations to hit before you start cutting, but sometimes you only need to do this once for the basic pattern and then work out the starting point for where to repeat this pattern again - rather than having DRO points explicitly written for every single feature.
Hi Joe
Will spoke design continue to evolve or has it reached a so called "zenith"?
Many cast spokes were curved as you now . . .
Know.
Great work Joe.
Out of interest could you make a " 24 Spoke Indian Flag Wheel" say 500mm Diameter?
I looked it up. I could, but WOW. that would be a project.
Yip it would be for sure ~ but very interesting; a project and a half!
Thanks for your answer anyhow . . .
Theres an Indian Consulate in Houston - who knows perhaps they would be enthusiastic if they knew you could?
I would imagine you have to pay close attention to backlash on this part. When cutting the windows, the centre axis of the rotary table is never in line with spindle centre. It looks like you should have to line up rotary table centre with either x or y axis to prevent a cosine error on final OD (if its important). Am I right or just taking rubbish there?
ruclips.net/video/s0HfNx9FdRc/видео.html 16:32 I conditionally agree with your observation.
👍thanks
I would of never believed it if I had not seen it.
Nice!
I have saved these to a folder so that I can refer to them as I make model steam engines so that I can add some class to the flywheels.
That would be a nice enhancement.
would it be considered cheating to use a dividing head/indexing plates on the table to cut 7 spokes?
A person would sure have to keep track of things.
Hi Worth. A true carriage wheel for my cannon is actually a 7 segment outer wheel with 2 spokes in each segment. This results in a 14 spoke wheel. Did I forget to mention they were also dished about 5 degrees? I started doing the math on these requirements and gained a new respect for the guys that did this without computers or CAD back in the day. True craftsman. And you are correct. LOTS of numbers !! LOTS.
Alloys next?
Mighty pretty
Could you do curved spokes?
Yep. Thats next.
I would probably turn that table in the wrong direction in the very end.
That is very easy to do.
Some idea for those that are building something like a flywheel for a steam engine and don't have a foundry like mr pete.
It would be nice to have text labeling your moves... X,Y, rotary. Hard to understand so close up.
Your canon's gonna by stylin bro.
OK, I'll stop trying to be cool... and I am assuming some of these will be for your brass canon pair.
I plan to make them 7 segment 14 spoke assemblies. I haven't decided on wood or brass. Wood would look better, but brass would POP.
I'm first wahoo.
Just because I paused it.