How to Achieve Perfect Baseboards
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- Опубликовано: 27 мар 2020
- How I get clean, crisp, and straight paint lines on my trim.
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Frog Tape - amzn.to/33TuxX1
Wooster Paint Brush - amzn.to/3bvwnzM 
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I've been a Professional Painter since 1980. A professional would never do all this. For one it's ten times more work. 2 you couldn't charge for that because you'd be too slow and you wouldn't make any money and 3 it would cost you way more money to do it with all the extra tape and everything you're doing. What you do is you paint your crown molding first if you have any. Then you paint your door casings and windows. After which you paint your walls and cut back to your casing with your wall paint. You can get a much straighter line by cutting back to your door & window casings free hand with your wall paint vs. cutting the trim paint to the walls. It's much easier plus it looks neater, straitgher and better. You don't have to be as neat When painting your trim because you're going to cover that little bit of paint up when you paint your walls. Lastly you paint your baseboards. You learn how to freehand a straight line just running your baseboard trim paint up onto the wall maybe a 1/32 of an inch higher than the actual baseboard plus it looks much straighter this way. When you're standing up looking down onto the baseboard. You won't need all this tape, water, paper towels, etc plus all the time you waste doing all the extra unnecessary steps. If you paint in this order crown molding, window & door casings, walls then paint your baseboard last you won't have any problems. If you paint the way you're doing you're going to see where you went around the edges with the wall paint. It's going to show up especially when a color is dark as the one in the video even more so if you're using something like eggshell, satin or semi-gloss finish on the walls, anything with a sheen. Flat paint will show up also but not as much. You will be able to look and see where you went around the baseboards, window and door casings with the wall paint after the fact, even if it's out of the very same can. You need to do your wall cut in to the trim with your wall paint before you roll your walls. This way you won't see an outline. If you cut in afterwards you going to be able to see it especially with colors this dark. The only place I use tape is it from painting over carpet to keep the carpet lint out of my paint and it allows me to get right down to the carpet without worrying about touching a little bit here and there because it pushes the carpet down along the baseboard and makes it where you can paint a little bit lower. I never tape anything like you're doing. I can cut a free hand a straight line with either hand it just takes practice. Hope this helps God bless Jimmy in NC....
PS. Make sure you mix all your gallons of wall paint together thoroughly in a 5 gallon bucket preferably putting them into a 5 gallon bucket and pouring them back and forth into a second 5 gallon bucket until you hear a sound like frying bacon then you'll know your pain is mixed thoroughly and you won't have one gallon that has a slight variance than another. if you working with extremely dark walls like navy blue or dark red you may need to cut in and roll one wall at the time after having painted crown molding Door and Window casings breaking it off in the corners before moving on to the next wall.
God Bless!!
Jimmy in NC....
PS. Feel free to contact me at anytime if you need painting/finishing and repair advice.
Email - thepainter.198094@gmail.com
Phone - (910)-818-3279
What type of roller do you recommend for baseboards?
@@30kbulba I usually just brush the baseboards Because by the time you cut in the top Edge and smooth off your excess paint you have already brushed half of them or more. But you can save some time if you're doing it professionally in the new house will there's no carpet and all that if you get a lambskin roller I normally use a three-quarter inch but for someone who is not a professional I would say a half inch would be easier for them. I'm talkin about a regular roller not the little hot dog rollers although a "Whizz" roller will make a great alternative. These are microfiber they are small diameter about the size of a hot dog they have the map on the ends so they cut in corners and they hold a lot of paint like a lambskin roller even though they're very small and by amateur because they're microfiber. when I started out doing all this they didn't even have those. I use them a lot for certain things once they were invented by somebody in Germany. I have come up with several paint tools myself but I tried to patent one and it cost me $700 for a patent search. The lawyer said it was patented but I have never seen anybody use one. My idea is a great idea and it's something that every painter would have in their pocket for it to be brought to Market. 10 years or more before they invented the fine finish tip I drew that tip on paper and designed it myself but I never tried to fatten it because I had already had a bad experience and I was afraid to waste more money that I didn't have. To this day I'm kicking myself that I didn't try to patent it. These spray tips for airless sprayers are as common as fleas on the dog now and had I patented it I would be a multi-millionaire then I could use my money to help others especially children. Getting back to the subject at hand use it with the open side down. I used to go run and do the entire house with the roller on the flat side of the baseboard and I had another man coming behind me cutting in the top Edge with the brush. If I were doing it on a real paint job I would probably just do one room with the time. I would first roll all the way around the room and then go back and cut in the top edge with a brush making sure I blended my cut into my roller by smoothing excess paint down as I went. I still say that if you're doing repaint work in a house and you have the carpet tape to keep the lip out of your baseboard by the time you roll a room out and then go back and cut it in I could cut in the baseboard and brushes in the same length of time or possibly even faster and I wouldn't even fool with the roller. the roller is Messier and you're taking more of a chance on getting paint on your carpet. the roller really only helps you when you have a new house the carpets not laid down yet and you can go around really fast and roll out the whole entire house without having to worry about getting paint on the floor because it's only the plywood subfloor that's down. This is where the roller helps you. You really need another good painter who can come behind the roller as you're rolling and cut in the top age with a brush blending into the roll portion of the baseboard with the tip of their brush. if you're only one man by the time you get out of roller roll everything and then switch to the brush it's a waste of time. Plus brushed trim looks much nicer than rolled trim. I only used the ruler on cheap low-end starter homes and Apartments that paid next to nothing for the painting for a novice or even someone with a fair amount of experience that does not do it every day for a living and is not as fast as a professional I would definitely just stick with a brush. I like a 3-inch angled brush or a 2-1/2". A 2-1/2". is probably better for a non-professional. Use a Purdy 2-1/2" Glide XL It's a blend of Tyntex Nylon & Orel Polyester with just the right snap and flex. these are readily available at any paint store bore Lowe's Home Depot and Ace Hardware. A Wooster 2-1/2" purple bristle brush works just as well. They have 2 versions. Make sure you get the one with the Nylon Polyester blend. The all Nylon version loses it's shape too quickly and it's too soft an floppy. Both versions the Wooster brush look the same. They both have purple bristles. Play attention because it's hard to tell them apart if you look on the handle or the brush rapper somewhere on there it will say nylon or nylon and polyester. You want the one that is not allowed in polyester. You don't have that problem with a purdy brush their nylon than polyester has a copper colored metal band holding the bristles to the handle and the bristles look Brown. The nylon one has a silver looking metal band and the bristles look dark Auburn. For really fine work Purdy makes their Syn-tox Brushes which are
Synthetic Ox Hair, a super fine Bristle, but for general purpose use the Brushes I named above are the way to go. I'm sorry for such a long long-winded reply, but I was trying to make what I'm saying makes sense in words. I really hope this helps you. You can call me at 910-818-2379 if you need any further assistance.
God Bless You and Yourn!!
Jimmy in NC....
New construction? $300,000 home? Free hand lines will get you run off the job!
I would happily pay the extra money for laser sharp paint lines. Many high end painters use masking tape to achieve this. You have some good advice for cost savings but you should also consider stepping into the modern age and have an open mind. This masking method is excellent for DIYers and Pros who want sharp lines. I don't know what your issue is when the end result is nicer than cutting in by hand, regardless of time and/or costs. Have a nice day.
@@A-Sidhu My issue is when ever I have used tape to achieve straight-line whenever you pull the tape you always have a little paint bleed under the tape that is if you're brushing up against it or rolling over it. The lines look ready and you have to go back over them with the opposing color. Plus I can make a line free-handed every bit as straight as a piece of tape or straighter. The only time I've ever seen tape make a perfectly straight line with no paint bleed is when you spray. Frog tape helps and you get less paint bleed, but you still have some. Plus Baseboards look straighter if you run your trim paint slightly up onto the wall. It's an optional illusion because your standing up looking down on the baseboards your eyes perceive them straighter when your trim paint is run slightly up onto the wall. I've been doing this since 1972 when I started helping my Grandfather as a boy and Professionally since 1980 I think by now I know what I'm talking about. Serious Professionals would never do all this. A Professional would have the baseboards painted before the person in the video got halfway around the room with tape and probably have the baseboards in a second room painted before they finished the tape in the first room.
God Bless You
and Yourn!!
Jimmy in NC....
This is not painting baseboards. This is painting the wall above the baseboard. But thanks for the tricks. I still learned something.
Brother...you have got a talent...first your voice is Hypnotical , and I'm not been condescending , and second , your explanation is clear and to the point without frills . Greatly enjoyable , Thanks!
Thank you for the kind words!
Loved the satin finish of the baseboards. Cleanest lines I’ve seen 👌🏻
Thank you very much! 🙏
This is great for DIYers. Thank you!
You’re the man! I did this and it turned out perfect. I’m stoked! Thank you!
Nice! Isn’t frog tape amazing?
Such a great video!! Thank you for your help.
You are so welcome!
This is great for diy. Thank you
This works if you can’t cut in a line I suppose but you can get just as great results by cutting in with a brush and not bother with the time it takes to tape off. Anyway, if you are going to use tape, then I would also recommend to try to use as few pieces as possible, as in: don’t tear off short sections at a time. Leave the tape on the roll and press the tape onto the trim as you go. When you get to the corners press your tape into the corner gently with your 5in1 then run the tape up the wall about 2” or so. Press your 5in1 flat into the corner and tear off the tape and it will make a nice straight 90 degree edge in the corner for you, if that makes sense. Hopefully that translates well into what I’m saying. Then when you start a new section of tape you will also be starting with a nice straight piece of tape again.
"This works if you can’t cut in a line I suppose but you can get just as great results by cutting in with a brush and not bother with the time it takes to tape off. Anyway..."
Translation: Hi DIYers, my name is Jared and I'll be your resident prick today! My strong traits are passive aggression and condescension!
@@phroz3n you must have missed the part where I give the nice little tip on using tape huh? But, speaking of passive aggression & condescending behavior, do you happen to own a mirror?
@Jared Peterson did you just pull a "I know you are, but what am I?" Mr. "I thumbs up my own comments."
@@phroz3n lol. Ok, I’ll give you credit when due, good catch. Apparently I did, however, unintentional. But, I don’t expect a sharp cookie such as yourself to believe others make mistakes, rather purposeful acts of “aggression” w/ varying degrees of passiveness & pure “condescension.” No no, you’re one who focuses on the negatives in life…glass half empty kinda person, as some call it.
Gosh, I must decide now. You got me on the ropes here. Do I: un-thumbs it up & give you satisfaction of a *win* in your eagle eyed life? …Or… leave it just in spite as now I know it must bug you? Hmm, guess you’ll just see what I’ve so *fiercely* aggressive, but passively as a sad set of puppy eyes, chose for you.
:-} Merry Christmas & Happy New Year you beautiful person you.
@@OVRxNxOUT Why waste time say lot word when few word do trick? You could have just said, "I'm an incredibly insecure individual."
I will have to try this trick. I've never had so much bleeding as i did with this green frog tape. I'll give this a try with the damp paper towel 🤞🏼🤞🏼
Frog tape is a really good product. Usually don’t even need the water trick, but it is good insurance. Make sure whatever you’re painting is clean.
Just what I needed to know. Thank you
The results are worth the effort!
Like the water technique 🤜🏻👍🏻
Nice job! look smooth like glass :)
That looks beautiful
Excellent. I did everything the same except the wet cloth. Thank you so much, I am going to do it right now 🥳🥳🥳
You can do it!
I too was a bit confused as to why the frog tape was on the portion that was being painted. I was looking for a video on how to paint baseboards and came across this one. The finished product looks really good but perhaps, you can take a look at the title of this video. :)
I get it. But if you paint the wall color on the wall and baseboard first. And then tape, and then paint the baseboard white. The wall color will bleed through. That’s why I like my order of operations shown in the video. I’m not saying it’s the only way to do this but it’s the way I like to do it.
I love Frog tape and Zibra brushes
Beautiful!
Thank you! 😍
I'm thinking you could use a small 4 in. roller to paint that also. Fast and no brush marks-hat banding.
You're painting a wall, not the baseboard! I need to retitle this one friend :-) I want to learn how to paint the baseboard the white part near the floor
When painting down to the floor, take a 10" trowel blade and put it under the baseboard slightly and paint. Move along accordingly with the 10" trowel when you finish an area. I've tried this technique too recently and it works beautifully, you still may get some paint on your floor, but minimal.
BigPhil Harris you still need to caulk baseboard to wall and fill and sand nail holes, then paint the whole surface completely, it’s a much better and even looking finish in the end. Unless it’s a rental, then Hell, who cares! 😂😂😂
@@tundrawhisperer4821 you are correct I just meant I paint it first and then hit with the second coat after I caulk and fill nail holes . If it's a good quality paint then it normally turns out pretty good I'm still learning though
BigPhil Harris oh, okay. Do you find sanding over the paint when knocking down the spackle a bit grabby, rather than sanding over primer?
Do you supposed to put a protective coat on the baseboards or painted and leave it how it is
What happened to the grey wall paint that was on the skirting?
ah yes. i just watched your video. we do share some of the same ideas and techniques. scary. but I've never tried the water. someone else commented on my video about water helping frog tape. cool video.
I just finished painting my baseboards I primed them first then paint them but should I put a protective coat on them so they won’t get as dirty or leave it like that
If you used a good quality semi-gloss paint on your trim, then you should be fine.
Two things, love your OCD technique and won't the 'baseboard' paint if a satin or gloss leave a margin appearance if wall paint is flat? I had shadowed edges in my old house because trim on doors and baseboards were sprayed with a different sheen than walls painted? Please respond anyone.
The bathroom in the video came out very good. FYI, the paint was satin and the baseboard was semi-gloss. And yes, when the wall paint is flat, SOMETIMES I have to give it 2 coats.
Achievement unlocked: Perfect Baseboard
Is it necessary to prime a baseboard bofore painting. Actually I'm making a breakfast nook from white mdf and it needs baseboards on the corner. Just wondering if only paint would work. I don't mind oil or water based. Please let me know what you suggest.
If it’s white mdf, it’s primed already. You can use whatever you want on top of it.
I tried this technique and it works beautifully! Thank you so much for the tip with the water. I used to tape like this, but never knew about the water and never could get crisp lines like I do now, so cool!
Frog tape is making a killing these days.
I wonder how many frogs they kill
The old trick before frog tape water sealed edges... was to simply seal the edge of the tape. There's a variety of ways to do that. One way is to use the trim paint... tape to the trim to make your line, then paint the wall with the trim paint (just along the tape). That way, the bleed through the tape is the trim paint color and once that paint dries, the edge of the tape is sealed, so no more bleed. Then paint with wall color, pull tape. Trimming to wood cabinets, can use a clear... sometimes even spray clear to seal the tape.... or caulking works because its thick enough to not bleed. As a rule of thumb, never brush to taped lines... but those are some tricks to keep the lines clean if you have to brush and roll to them. Otherwise, just spray to your masking and it won't bleed. Its when you tool it, it pushes the paint into the edge of the tape and bleeds some... even with Frog tape. Oh, so much to it. lol Funny watching these vids on "how to paint" on youtube!
Agree with what you’re saying! Thanks for watching!
I'm smack in the middle of a big LVP/baseboard project for my entire upstairs, and this part is giving me fits. I've found that his way is the best way so far, for us mere mortals who can't paint a perfectly straight line with a trim brush. That said....when you say "spray" your masking, are you talking about a spray gun?? Because, I agree....I've found using a brush along the tape line is a recipe for disaster, but it's next to impossible to *not* do that (at least to some degree).
@@phillamoore157 Yeah, spray with a spay gun against the masking (don't flood it, or it might weep through and get a blurry edge... better two light coats to make sure it doesn't bleed). Typically I spray the trim first (if its painted trim)... doing thorough prep with plasti wood filler, sand, vacuum, vacuum, vacuum... primer, sand again, go over again with bright light and use automotive red finish putty for any remaining imperfections... that way, can see where you put the putty, its red on white primer... red putty dries real fast, doesn't shrink.... go back and sand those, spot with a rattle can spray primer.... vacuum, vacuum, vacuum... sometimes even wipe with tack cloth to make sure no dust after final sanding.... then spray trim with an airless sprayer, fine filters on it and the gun, with a .010 tip (usually a 310 tip for the narrow fan).... then mask the trim after its dried, spray the walls, roll the corners using a corner roller or "weeny roller" in the to give corners where big roller won't touch, the same texture as the rest of the walls, roll out the main parts of the walls, staying about a half inch off the masked trim. After that dries, I run 1.5 inch blue tape around the top of the walls (assuming the lid is a different color/sheen than the walls), sticking only the top edge of the tape... pulling out some extra tape, sticking the roll of tape to the wall and letting it hang there while moving the ladder... go around whole room masking the top of the wall along the ceiling..... leaving the bottom edge of the tape loose, adding a little extra piece going around outside corners... so that can come back and stick top edge of plastic under that tape and drape it down covering the newly painted walls and trim that's still masked.... spray and backroll ceiling.... again, not bumping roller against the tape, but leaving just the spray against the tape (again, two light coats if coverage needed, rather than one heavy coat that might bleed).... then pull all that masking and viola! Best possible interior paint finish.
@@Forlornguild Outstanding...you're a god send. I'm using that DAP drywall filler (the pink stuff that dries white), but painting over is has been a pain for some reason. I may wind up spraying the molding outside, then going back and touching up the nail holes once installed. I'm using quarter roud, as well. Trying to paint that once installed is a HUGE pain in the ass. So, I either need to find a way to not paint it at all (I'm using the PVC, that has a nice clean, white finish)....or paint that outside as well. Glad to hear you confirm that it's tried and true. My #1 concern is over-spray on $5K worth of high-end LVP. I've used the sprayer on some walls on some remodeling, but never in an otherwise finished room, so I'm a bit hesitant in that capacity. Not sure it matters, but I'm just using a med-level (Wagner Spraytech 0529017 PaintREADY Station HVLP Stationary Paint Sprayer). Thanks a million for the reply....that info is worth its weight in gold.
@@phillamoore157 Yeah, for the best finish, how I explained is the process I evolved to over many years and countless projects (sometimes 400+ unit luxury apartment complexes both new and remodel.. plus commercial such as schools, office buildings, government buildings.. etc and of course dozens and dozens of custom homes). Your best results are going to be spraying that trim in place. Have never had much luck with PVC trim. Paint doesn't like to stay put long term on it long term, and its so flexible, its easy to have it end up looking wavy, especially the quarter round to the floor. Granted, the quarter round is to even out the gap to the floors, but I tend to use real wood quarter round, or actually the stuff I like is like 3/4" x 1/2" "quarter round" type trim. As far as protecting the floors, typically I put the trim on after the hard flooring/before carpet flooring. All of the hard surface floors get covered with butcher paper that comes in rolls in the paint section.... its just like thick masking paper that comes in rolls about 3 feet wide. I cover the floors entirely, then keep up on any tears in that paper, by putting some maskign tape over breaks/tears when vacuuming. I run that wide paper out in strips, taping it down with good tape... at least that scotch blue, but prefer IPG/Intertape PG5. Definitely do not use cheap tape, or will have trouble getting it back off when all is done. Run the wide paper to within a couple/few inches of the finished base (and quarter round)... then masking paper from a hand masker to just near the base... like within a half inch of it... then tape right up to the base.... when masking to the base (or quarter round if using that)... error on the side of up past the base 1/16th of an inch so the tape is actually running up the base a tiny bit rather than falling short.... nobody will see that tiny 1/16th of an inch... particularly if the base is primed white and the finish is white. Might want to be absolutely perfect in masking if diff. color.... or try to tuck it best you can under the base a hair... but will still probably have to go back with a utility knife and scratch off a hairline of overspray along the floor. If base is a hair off the floor, I'll take short pieces of tape and tuck them under enough so no overspray will get on floor. But yeah... I definitely spray it all in place.... a sprayed "mill pack" they call it... short for "millwork package". Its the best finish and by now for me, its just habit... anything short of that lacks the perfection. I'll write another response will full details on how I do just the mill pack or "trim"... then refer back to walls next, lids last to complete the process.
Does the water trick only work on FrogTape, or on Blue Painter's tape as well?
Frog tape.
What brand and color is that paint ? It’s a great color
Valspar Signature, Urban Sunrise. I really like the color. It’s gray with a very slight blue undertone.
If you caulk your tape it will be faster.. also watering frog tape doesn’t stop bleed through..get better laser straight lines with caulking..but good video 😇
I’ve tried the caulking trick, but it wasn’t my thing. Whatever works for you! 👍
I just painted my trim. How long do I have to wait before I can apply tape on it?
Refer to the paint can instructions. You can put tape on the trim color somewhere on the wall and see if it peels off the paint or not.
Time decorating for 45 years , No 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 I would never have earned a living!
Did you remove the tape when paint was still wet. I think I let my paint dry and when I removed the tape some paint got removed with it :(
Yup. Remove within 10 min. Also, don’t forgot about the water trick in the video!
@@chicagohandyman Thanks for reply.
If your paint is dry when you pull tape off, use a razor blade and cut carefully as you remove it! I always try to avoid this, but it does work if done carefully
When you paint the bottom wall with the trim paint. Then paint over with the wall color. Isn’t one semigloss other not. Wouldn’t you have adhesion issues. That’s what I’ve always been told and seen ?
I have heard of that as well, but I have had no issues with my way. I am painting so little of the white semi gloss trim paint onto the wall, there is no problem. I also think that because the wall paint goes on top of the white paint before it has a chance to fully cure, the wall paint can make a good bond.
Side note, painting different sheens of paint on top of each other can cause flashing issues, but like I said, there is so little trim paint getting on the wall, any effects are minimal or none.
Could you use a mini roller ?
U could, but I wouldn’t recommend it.
What kind of paint/brand did you use?
This one was Valspar Signature from Lowe’s. Satin on the walls. Semi on the trim.
Why do you paint the wall first? Why not just paint the trim, then the entire wall? (Great tip about the frog tape!)
For such a small room like in this video, I prefer the order shown. I can roll the wall faster without the baseboard. (Also, the baseboards weren’t installed at that time.) You can do it in the order you mentioned. If you do, cover all of your white trim well bc you’ll get tons of tiny wall paint splatter all over them.
Ah, yes-does make sense for a small room :) thx!!
Tricia F s
I"m smack in the middle of doing an LVP/baseboard project for my entire upstairs, and I've found this is FAR easier in the long run, than trying to paint the tops of these baseboards perfectly with a brush, without using the tape. I watch the pro's do it, and God bless them being able to keep their hand THAT steady along an entire wall. I tried several times, and always wind up getting paint on the walls, then have to go back and touch up anyway. And, masking the wall off while painting the baseboards is a whole different set of problems. So, I'm glad I watched this. It confirms my original plans.
Glad it helped!
Great job man. You can get rid of the jagginess of your final line by letting the paint completely dry beFORE you pull your tape. PLUS......it's not so messy that way. Pullin' the tape AFTER the paint is dry, you don't run the risk of getting wet paint off the tape onto you and/or things around you where you DON'T want that paint. This is a biggy, especially when you have a lot of tape to pull off. Nonetheless, great job. Better than 99% of the "pro"-done DIY videos out there. Your inside corners are the BOMB and those corners are among the biggest downfalls of MOST so-called "pro's" .....tape or NO tape. If someone can't do a tight corner like yours, they are NOT A PRO! PERIOD! And you'd be surprised how many fail at this.
Appreciate the compliments and input!!
If you wait for the paint to dry first before pulling do you run the risk of the paint “bridging” and pulling paint off the wall a bit? Thx
Hey bud your not sealing the tape with the water, in frog tape there is a blocker in it, as soon as it gets wet from the paint it swells and activates,
i would have just gotten drunk and finished it on monday!!!
😂
Hahaha
What color is that grey paint?
Urban sunrise by valspar
@@chicagohandyman thank you!
Cheap and fast work is bad quality
Fast and good quality is expensive
Cheap and good quality is going to take some time
This may take a person a while but the quality is definitely good!
By the time you have taped up one skirting I would have finished the whole room by cutting in with a paint brush and get the same results.
Just cut-in & save all that faffing and expense!
You didn’t paint the baseboard! I wasted my time waiting for it. Augh!!!
what he's saying is the line is more clean looking when you paint the baseboard first then use the wall paint to create a straight line it looks better that way
Huh ?
That way takes up way too much time. I'll show you how to cut a line without no tape so much faster!
has nothing to do with how to paint my baseboard.
Wow, not how pro's would do it
Oddly enough, this video is aimed at average homeowners ... not professionals. I know, mindblowing, right?
This is NOT how to paint baseboards! Did you confuse baseboard and wall?
I like to do the baseboards then walls if I’m rolling.
@@chicagohandyman Oh okay. The title of your video is kind of misleasding.
tape is just a waste of time