How to Replace Spark Plug, Jeep Cherokee KL 3.2L
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Parts lists and sponsors in description:
This video is to show you how to replace the spark plugs on a Jeep Cherokee 3.2L. This video goes through all the components that need to be removed and installed to get the job done from start to finish. This is a more advanced job and is not recommended for a mechanic with only the basic skills. If you are unsure about your skills at mechanical work it is recommended that you consult a qualified mechanic before attempting. This job took me approx. 3.5 hours and i have done other jobs similar to this before. As always, these videos are rough cut and in first person. I am not a film editor by trade and the videos are more about the information provided. If you have any questions, comments or concerns please drop them in the comment area of the video and we will answer them as soon as we can. Thanks and we hope this video helps you with your repair.
The links listed below are paid links that help fund the channel. When you make a purchase through them we get a amount small monetary compensation. We have set these list up to make it easier for you to get the job done quickly.
Spark plug options:
Stock OME spark plugs, set of 4, 6 req: amzn.to/3Ksefd1
What we used, Autolite, set of 1, 6 req: amzn.to/41e7HFV
NGK plugs: amzn.to/3nSjSts
Bosch double iridium plugs: amzn.to/40WOnxa
Generic pack of plus and coils: amzn.to/3UoqUSY
Odds and ends:
Spark plug socket set: amzn.to/3UoqUSY
Shop rags: amzn.to/3UoqUSY
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I believe the spark plug torque is 13ft lbs (156in). Also, the bolt holding the bracket in place in the rear of the manifold cover can be removed when taking the manifold cover off. This is the best detailed video for the 3.2L Cherokee. Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Thank you for the compliment and the comment.
This Step by Step saved me $600. Thank you so much for doing it.
Glad to could help. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video... my number 1 cylinder coil failed and I took it to a shop. My favourite shop that I have trusted for years. The mechanic got us in real quick and fixed the problem for $325 of which $185 was labour... the problem was fixed for only minutes. Took it for a drive and it started sputtering again and no acceleration... WTF!?!.. Took it back in, mechanic scanned it and said number 5 is NOW the problem. We didn't have the time or the money to let him have another go. So I went home... found your video and it didn't look so hard. After mustering up the courage I went for it myself. I did it in under an hour (if I had to do it again it would take me 30 minutes or less for sure). I replaced 3 & 5 coils and changed the plugs too. Runs great now. Did I get ripped off with the $185 labour charge????... like, seriously... this can be swamped out in less than half an hour.
Oh, I had a problem getting one connector off... you talk about it at the 3:45 mark... I couldn't get it to open and was scared to break the plastic... turns out you don't need to take that one off because the hose (further to the right) simply slides off then you can just move it all to the side. Easy peasy. It was soooo satisfying to do this myself. Thanks for the awesome video. Couldn't have done it with you. :)
Thank you very much. This is why i make these videos. If i can find a way make things easier for everyone to do mechanical work on their cars, i would do it. Once you know some basics, it just about the tricks that make it easier. I appreciate the compliment and you picked the right day to give because it's my birthday today. If you are not subscribed, make sure to because i have more videos on the KL Cherokee that may be of help to you. Thank you again.
I am a shade tree mech. I’m the Mcgyver of the family, everybody in the fam. says take it to Carlos, my niece jeep, same as this one, #6 coil was bad, the one under the intake, THIS VEDIEO showed me EVERYTHING that I need to know, I wana THANK U for making this one, the job I did was a success, I will be looking for U on my next projects, U DA MAN!
Thanks for watching. Glad the video could help, that's why we make them. Please if you like the video, make sure to subscribe. Every one helps keep our videos higher in the searches.
Awesome, thanks for showing. Took about 3hrs taking my time. Saved a lot. Thanks 👍
Glad we could help that's why we make these videos. Also in the oil cooler video i showed that back bracket notched to get it off and on easier. Thanks for Watching make sure to subscribe if you haven't already.
AWESOME... Thanks so much for your video help! Excellent detail. Here in Colorado Springs they charge $600 to swap out plugs, so I ended up saving about $500 in the labor costs by doing it myself (2 1/2 hours). And you were definitely right... cheap plastic fittings break! As a note, I actually had to completely remove the stud holding the rear bracket to make it work. Thanks again!👍
Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad the video helped. We have a lot more videos on this vehicle on the playlist for it so make sure to subscribe. These are prone to dropping a rocker, which we did videos on. Thanks for watching.
Ummm.... that sounds a little beyond my comfort zone but I will be scouring your channel when my mechanic comes back with $4000 or repairs the next, or seemingly every time I get my oil changed. @@SKPcars 😉
You did an absolutely phenomenal job explaining everything in full detail and showing it as you did so
Thanks, i have been trying to speed the videos up a bit because people now days seem to have no patience for long videos. Hopefully none of the needed parts get lost in the process. Thanks for the comment.
@@SKPcars You did a great job on this video and really pointed out the one thing that caught me up yesterday. I was replacing my spark plugs on the Cherokee and that 13mm stud that holds the bracket in place tripped me up. I couldn't find what was holding the rest of the intake manifold down which you pointed out. If you do any more repairs on your Jeep, I'd be happy to see the videos because I do a lot of DIY and I'm looking at doing my brakes next.
@@Nomad-ji6sc We did do the brakes on this one. there is a playlist for the Cherokee. there are a few different size brakes is the biggest thing to watch out for. We should have parts in the description too to make it easier. Also i technically still own this car but it is leased out to a friend who needed a car badly to get his kids around. If you haven't yet make sure to subscribe lots of videos on lots of cars.
Thanks for making this video. Just did my plugs and coils for the first time and your instructions were perfect. 👏
Thank you, always glad to hear our content is helpful. We have a lot more video on this car, so remember to subscribe if you haven't already. Thanks for the comment.
This helps me plenty. I am going to attempt this today.
Glad this could help don't forget to subscribe to our channel, if you haven't done so already.
Nice work and thanks for sharing the knowledge.... going through this now on our Trailhawk.
best of luck, if you have questions let us know. Thanks for watching and if you haven't yet, please subscribe. It really helps out the channel.
This was a great video! I am working on my 2019 Jeep Cherokee now
I could not get the air application in the front off today...I will try again tomorrow.
Thanks!
I'm glad the video could help you. We have a lot more videos on the Cherokee. Make sure to subscribe to see more of them. Thanks for watching.
The shop i went to today was going to charge me $192 for 1 plug and 1 coil - I did all 6 plugs and 1 coil (I know I should have changed all 6) for $80. This video saved the day. P.S. that rear bracked can suck an egg.
I forgot to mention when I got home I noticed the mechanic did not put the bolts back in the 1 & 3 coils and broke the rear mounting bracket on the air box housing along with a harness mount.... fun day.
I am glad our video helped you. The airboxes breaking is really common. The coils they should have known better. Don't forget to subscribe we have more videos that may help you on the Cherokee
Great video thanks for the help. I was able to get it done with almost no experience, has to do to the store a few times for tools though😂
Glad the video could help. Don't feel bad about going to the store a few times. With years of tool buying like me, you will have multiple sets of tools at multiple locations. You still won't be able to find the tool you needed and end up having to go to the store. Haha. Thanks for watching.
thanks for all your jeep cherokee KL 3.2L vids, liked and subbed! looking foward to the drivebelt/coolant change, transmission fluid change
I'm glad you are finding them useful. There probably won't be too many more. i have leased this car out to a friend, who needed a car badly. Unless he wants me to work on it or i get the car back, chances are slim i will have more videos on it. Great car though i liked driving it better than the 2023 civic i have now.
Nice tutorial. I got my spark plugs out on a Cherokee 3.2L and all 6 were gapped at .048. My new plugs haven't arrived yet and they should be pregapped at .044. I will push them down a little to .043.
Glad you liked the video.
Good stuff man, very thorough.
Thank you for posting. Very helpful!
Good explanation.....Thank you.
Glad you liked it thanks for watching.
Ahhhh!thank you
The bracket attached to the manigold has a weird little cone holding a hose to it near the nut and stud attached to the block. How do i detach that to get the bracket off?
So in this video, i unscrewed the stud under the cone, 14mm. Until it came out but was still holding what qe are calling the cone. Made it loose enough to pry over that stud in the back. In the oil cooler replacement video. I showed how i removed the bracket and cut a notch in the top of the bracket so i only had to loosen the 14mm and roll the bracket back to clear the stud on the intake. It will come in handy if you have to go in there again. Best of luck.
dielectric grease is an insulator and doesn't conduct electricity. I won't suggest using it on the very tip of the plug
You are correct, i believe when i made this video i couldn't think of the name of the lube they put on the plugs to help make a connection. In fact, right now the name doesn't come to mind. Probably why i said it, in the video though. Die-electric grease is often used to help keep the boots from getting stuck in place.
I changed the spark plugs on my dads truck when I was 13. Cars these days are ridiculous.
I have been working on cars about that long too. Most plugs are easy. I'm going to be doing a cx9 soon that is about as bad as this one. Car manufacturers are making everything cheaper and more compact for their convenience not ours.
I dont seem to have the electric plug that connects to the check valve. Is thag normal? It look like you have one.
The check valve that i am thinking of is right on top? Is that the one you are talking about? Could you give me a time stamp so i can see what you mean?
What a junk .
Will buy the xt5 much easy to work on the gm 3.6 v6.
Big Thanks for the video .
Glad to help and happy you liked the video. The pentastar motor is a pretty reliable motor. Jeep, Dodge and Chrysler use them on a lot of their v6's. This one currently has 161k miles on it. All motors have some flaws you just have to decide which flaws you want to work on.
@@SKPcars any water pump termostate,trans,trans case replaced in the 160k ?
Big thanks
@@qq3528 on this one no, we have none of those issues. That is not to say others may not have had those issues. Oil coolers commonly go out on these engines and they are a pain to do. Similar to doing spark plugs but more work. I have a video on doing that too.
@@SKPcars God bless you !
Good helpful upload man
Glad it helped
hey man which cylinder is number 3 i have a misfire and just want to make it easier on myself
Rear bank is odds, front bank is evens. It should be drivers side rear. We did a video repairing the #1 because of bad rockers
Great thank you
Glad the video helped, we have a lot of videos on this car make sure to subscribe for more.
the worst part of this job for me was that half inch bolt at the back to move that bracket.
Struggling to get this bracket off of a 2019, how’d you get it done?
hi.. do we also need to change the gasket if I will follow your method, thanks for sharing this...? also for 133k kms do I need to change the coil ignition? thanks again
Great question, it doesn't have to do with the method we did for the gaskets. It has to do with the condition of the gaskets. If they are crushed and warped or broken and split.
As for the coils, there isn't really a requirement to replace them that soon. You would replace them at that interval of there is something wrong with them. They will normally pop up a code if there is an issue with them. You can always replace them if you just don't want to have a reason to go back in there. I have had mine for 165,000 mile(not sure what that is in kms) and never replaced a coil.
I should have a full list of parts for this job in the video description. I believe the gaskets and coils are in there and if not let me know and i will add them. Thanks for the comment i hope we were able to help.
First time checking the air filter yesterday as far as I know, there was nothing attached to that rear air tube. But now you have me wondering. Does the 2019 still have that coolant hose connected to the air tube and I didn’t realize it.
I believe it is just an anchor point.
Thanks for a great step by step video!! Following your video I purchased and installed the Auto lite XP5701 plugs into my 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk 3.2 . I gaped them at .043 . The car ran fine before but now I have a check engine light on and it’s idling terrible in gear with little acceleration. Any suggestions on what I could have done wrong? Two ( black clip not red) hold connectors that attach to the coil packs( which I removed in error) broke off, but the connectors themselves are fine. Thanks in advance for any help you could provide.
The first thing you need to do it hook up a reader to your obd2 port under the dash and find out what the code is. That will tell you what area to look at for what may have gone wrong. You may have a broken coil wire, they are very small and dry brittle wires can break. It may also tell you one of the broken connectors isn't on all the way or wires are in the connector. I would guess codes will be a mis-fire on a cylinder and/or bad coil on same cylinder. Code readers if you don't have one are cheap, you normally have to reference the code on the internet for cheaper readers. Otherwise i would look at your wiring really well. Best of luck i hope it helps let me know if you need more info. I will try to help as best i can.
Thanks so much for answering back so quickly! Tomorrow morning I will start your great suggestions 😊 Much appreciated and have a good night
Did you figure out what it was?
I'm new to your channel, but I'm definitely going to subscribe. I'm curious as to why you began this lesson with "explaining" how you did a task like remove the air box etc....as opposed to filming the "actual" procedure? You would use about the same video time-since you had to explain it anyway. I would think the teaching-lesson would be better absorbed by the viewer. Serious question.
I try to take all questions seriously. I appreciate the question also. It comes down to, what i think will work out the best. People don't want to hear me grunting through an explaination. That's one reason. Keeping people watching based on time is another. If it took me 10 mins to take it off but 2 mins to explain what to do. 2 mins ends up keeping the younger audiences interested longer. I have a lot of videos, some i remove the parts while explaining and some i dont. It's a tough call to make but i have videos like the clutch job on my xj. I broke the clutch videos in 2 parts, because of time. I also did another video of rear main seal at the same time. Total those videos are probably close to an hour. No one watches the install video because they got most of the info from the removal. I had to do it though because the longer the video the less people are willing to watch unless they need something specific. As time has progressed i have increase how quickly i explain things also because people don't want to wait to hear it. In this video, in most cases it was faster to remove it and talk then showing each step. I hope that answers your question feel free to ask anything you like i try to answer as best i can.
Oh and please make sure to subscribe, doing that, liking and sharing contributes to youtube sharing our videos with more people and the channel growing.
@@SKPcars I appreciate the reasoning---thanks.
@@SKPcars Already did!
Thanks for being a part of the channel, welcome.
If your stuff is broken, maybe still explain how you get off the box?
I did explain it. It pops off the mounts but brittle plastic makes the mounts brake.
Do you need to replace the intake gasket? Does one even exist? My mechanic thought it is needed?
There are 6 gaskets under the intake manifold. As long as they aren't crushed or broken, they can be reused. I think we have a link to some in the description. Mechanics will change them to prevent them going bad after the spark plugs have been changed. They don't want your car back for something like that. Plus, it makes them a little extra money. I have taken mine off 3 time and never changed them, that doesn't mean yours aren't bad though.
So is that box a resonator? Or does it have some other purpose?
I would guess it is that or some sort of flow speed control. Most cars have them now. If you watch the video on the honda passport we just got there are 3 little boxes.
How does one get the bracket on the back of the manifold off? I tried loosening and then unscrewing the mounting stud on the bottom, but there is no room to pull it out due to the hose clip on the bolt (hoses are not flexible) and the silver cylinder to the driver’s side of the bolt and hoses.
I’m tempted to remove the studs on the back of the manifold and replace them with bolts.
I got lucky the first time, i moved it the right way and it fell back into place. When i replaced the oil cooler(also a video) i ended grinding a notch in the top of the bracket. It allowed the bracket to drop right in and still do the job without removing the stud completely on the side.
This is the other video, if you don't want to sit through it look around 18:30 and you can see how i notched it.
ruclips.net/video/zkm1eYtXMts/видео.html
@@SKPcars Thanks for linking to this. That bracket is the only thing stopping me from getting to my spark plugs and coils in front. I would prefer not to notch but might be my only option.
@@ianrutherford1 glad to help, thanks for watching.
13 ft-lbs? (Not inch pounds) Right?
Probably, but i am not sure what that is specifically about. 13in lbs would be 1.1 ft. lbs. That's less then the resistance of the bolt being tightened.
Where did you get that the plugs go 120,000 miles between changes? Isn't it only 100,000 miles?
Yes the normal interval for those is 100k. The plugs that came out were the oem plugs. They didn't look that bad at 120k. I believe i have a list of all the parts in the description. It should have what came out and what went in.
@@SKPcars Then why say they only need to come out after 120,000 miles if you know it's 100,000?
@@LiChoiFungfan because of the condition they come out. They are rated for 100k. They come out fine at 120k. Unless your having an issue, they really don't need to be changed and the job is a pain to do. I held off as long as i thought safe and probably could have left them in longer. You should change them at the interval you feel safe but most forums say 100-120k. Book says 100k.
@@SKPcars If they come out fine, then you could probably file, clean, regap and use them again instead of getting new ones maybe.
@@LiChoiFungfan so on an older car you can get away with that because of the thickness of the electrode and the wide gaps from the h.e.i. system. On newer cars they use much thinner electrodes. Attempting to old school file plugs is not a good idea. You can ruin the electrode material. The metal it arcs to would still be ok but you may not get the power to come from the plug to make the arc properly. It's not the best thing to try. Look at iridium electrode verses an older copper core or even the platinum which is, copper coated in platinum. None of the modern type are made to be filed.
Great video...thank you. Is cylinder #2 towards the grill passenger side? I am getting a P0302 code.
I'm sorry i don't have a good answer for you. It is either that or the middle one. I would disconnect the coil from the plug and run it if you get a code for another cylinder number you are on the wrong one. If i can find it in the manual tomorrow i will update this but that is my best answer for the moment.
@@SKPcars That is actually a great idea...thank you! One more quick question. If the cylinder is at the front of the car, would I still have to disconnect all the stuff towards that back that you did in the beginning of the video?
@@derekmilligan unfortunately you would have to remove stuff and then put it back or you going to get other trouble codes. You could probably leave off the air box and hose. I don't think there is a sensor reading pressure in the box. The intake has to be back in place. Again i would have to double check tomorrow and see what can be left off. If there is a sensor on it. It will read wrong and run worse or not at all.
Better answer now that i have had time to dig into it. The 3.2l is base off of the 3.6l block. The cylinder order and firing order should be the same. Left bank passenger side or front of engine furthest towards passenger side. You are correct it should be the one you are thinking. If you are going to test for which one it is. It will require all the parts back on except, the air cleaner box and the hose just behind it. Everything else has sensors. Their is an air flow sensor just in front of the throttle body, that reads air flow coming it. It has to be connected. I hope this helps get you through the issue.
You are amazing. Thank you so much. Subbed! So if I go directly to cylinder 2 (assuming we have the location correct), would I still have to disconnect all the things near the rear, or can I save time and heartache by skipping some of that since that cylinder is up front?
My intake manifold won’t come up
That is a tough problem without some context. There are many bolts that hold it down. I would guess that bracket towards the back. I ended notching the metal out when i did the video for the oil cooler.
Can you show how to remove the top cover over the air intake. You had taken it off before the video started and om having a little trouble getting mine off. I have a 2017 Cherokee btw. Thank you.
The cover that sits over the whole engine? It has 4 rubber grommets that sit on the block. The cover has 4 plastic balls. They are pulled straight up and normally come out of the grommets.if you mean the intake itself. There are a bunch of bolts 7-8, once back off(won't come all the way out)lift the front up and pull towards the front at an angle. I hope that helps.
Making a video of that right now would require me to take apart a running vehicle i need to use to get to work.
@@SKPcars thank you so much for the info!
Put a little dielectric grease on the tabs. We are the engine cover fits on. It’ll come off easier next time.
@SanityKillerProjects thank you much is the stick to check transmission fluid would be under the cover?
TORQUE ON SPARK PLUIGS ?????????????????///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Ok, this is a good question because people should know things like this but really who torques spark plugs. Any smaller diameter spark plugs is going to have torque it the range of 7-15 lbs. Which is generally what people call snug. Any larger diameter plug is going to be in the range of 10-20 lbs or just past snug. Any with a crush washer is going to have a slightly higher torque. No spark plug under any circumstance goes above 40 lbs. In most case the general rule is just make them snug or you rip the thread out. If you don't you will never get them out next time you change it. I can safely say in all my years i have never seen anyone torque wrench a spark plug. Just be smart, when it hits the deck go a little tighter and stop. I hope that answers the question.
Wrong kind plugs for Chrysler products
While they may not be the ones listed as the manufacturers original equipment. I promise that they are the correct fit and type for the jeep cherokee. Those are the ones i choose for the quality because they are in the vehicle for upto 120,000 miles. Thanks for the comment.
Will never own a jeep again lmao
To each their own. I think i have 4 right now. Haha
You waste too much time on pointless chatter
Thanks i will keep that in mind, i try to keep the pointless chatter to a minimum. Especially since these are all unscripted and the info i give is all from memory. I believe my videos have gotten better and shorter when it comes to that as time goes on.