At 11;26 just for info, checking exhaust valves you should remove the rubber piece below to give the feeler guages room to get in from the bottommuch easier.
Another great video GG! So nice that the valve check/adjustments are that accessible, with the boxer engine. Slightly different than a 2 valve Ducati service, lol
Nice vid making it very clear. Removing cams is fraught unless teeth are exactly lined up. The reason I would leave this to a bmw dealer is they do it day in day out and whilst checking spec is easy and worthwhile as is renewing plugs, re shimming is more involved and comes with risk of aligning everything incorrectly. Been there, got the teeshirt! These days with my arthritic hands I’d rather leave it to others but oil and filter changes I’d do myself along with general maintenance.
I agree with you of course, and when it comes to removing the cams one needs to actually take a different approach to finding TDC (as they show in the shop manual). My approximate checks are mainly to see where my gaps are in the allowable range, and if they are moving. So far in 60k miles they are stable. When time comes to add shims I will most likely get a technician to do it since sourcing / buying shims can be a PITA that I am not really interested in. Good garages will have assorted shims on hand and can get it sorted in a couple of hours, especially if I show up and tell them *that is all* I want done on the bike.
Hi GG - my 2016 RS just passed 12K and might have a go with the clearance check. Can you please share the special tools (Plug coil removal, etc.) that you used and where you sourced them? Thanks for your content here and for your work as a moderator on the RS forum!
Thanks for the comment! The puller was probably bought off Amazon - something like this (tinyurl.com/4thkj9d6) shows up in a search for "BMW R1200RS spark plug coil puller". The feeler gauges I have I got a while back and have no idea where they came from but again you can search for "metric feeler gauges for valves" (e.g. tinyurl.com/yav3zjj4). Other than that, a simple socket set and torque wrench are needed to do the job of checking the clearances. Good luck and have fun.
Sourced a kit through Ted Porter's Beemer Shop "SBVTools BMW Add on Pouch " which will go with one I've purchased from them for my KTM. Nice tools I can bundle and take on the road when needed. Somewhat easier (and less expensive) than looking for and then purchasing through a dealer. They are a great resource for all things GS 911 related as well.
If you have a close look at the picture of the add-on set... Here is a quote from Ted: "Yes it’s there, sort of hard to see in the picture. It has the coil puller on one side and an oil cap removal tool on the other and is part of the BMW add-on kit. It’s one of his patented tools." Got the full set for my KTM, compared it to the current offering from motohansa and some others and made the purchase.
Nice video but with a little mistake: The right exhaust valve must also be measured from below. To do this, remove the lower rubber. Greetings from Germany, Bernd
Thanks for the tip. What changes did you see specifically? The NGK LMAR8D-J is the OEM plug and has a heat range of 8 whereas the NGK 6213 SILMAR9A9S has a heat range of 9 (colder for NGK). Geometrically they are similar so fitment is equivalent, but running a colder plug in some engines could cause deposits to form on the electrodes while running a hotter plug could cause knocking and hence damage to valves. I have no knocking problems and the deposits on the plug electrodes are normal, so I am not sure of the advantage to be seen.
@@GrumpyGoat in my 2015 R1200R the difference was night and day. It starts more quickly, runs markedly smoother everywhere, throttle response and acceleration are much crisper. Most noticably I would say is that it pulls from much lower in the rpm range without objecting. The heat range colder hasn't bothered anything and I've been running the bike on 87 octane since I the second tank after I swapped plugs, there is zero difference in performance.
@@GordysGoodworks - Where are you located? Here in Houston TX we get "summer blend" gas so in the summer months many of us get the double / hard start due to crap gas, and this is using 89 AKI (mid grade). In winter the starting is instantaneous. If this plug would improve starting in the summer I would be interested.
@@GrumpyGoat Southern Indiana, we have summer and winter fuels as well, which seem to make no difference to the bike. Mine never has the double start issue, it always springs to life within the first couple cranks.
Wanting to do this but ... can i wait until i do the oil change and spark plug change? And is there a way to determine if there is a problem with my clearance--Thanks for the help!!
It depends on how far you are from the oil change / spark plug change. Of the valves are in spec then there is not a problem waiting to check it, but you won’t know of it is in speed until you check it, so best to get it checked off it is due. I don’t understand your last question. You do the valve check to determine if there is a problem. If it is out of speed then adjustments have to be made using shims. I think it’s best if you take your bike to a mechanic if you are not comfortable doing this work.
Grumpy out of interest what are the make of your crash bars? I've unfortunately have the BMW ones and in true BMW design they have to be removed to replace the plug.
Damn I purchased the bike with the OEM bars... the SW Motech stuff is far superior, I purchased SW aluminum panniers in preference to the BM side cases and they are superior in my opinion.
The OEM bars' design are, in my opinion and based on eyeball assessment of load bearing capacity, inferior to the SW Motech design. Just as importantly, the SWM bars are more unobstrusive than the OEM bars, which I wanted. Then there is the good access as you noted (and I know). Lastly, a friend of mine with a GS reported that he bent his OEM bars with a drop off road (based on the design) and got rid of the OEM bars and got a replacement from Touratech I think. No experience with those.
My crash bars by Ilium Works...I feel they're overpriced. I also purchased the highway pegs that fit onto front bars.. just for the set of pegs was $300... that's fairly ridiculous if you ask me. Front bars are 375 or 425 . I forget. Rear are 400... pricey
I agree. The thing is, if you have pricey crash bars and you crash you’ll want to replace them and where is the sense in that. The way I see it what is needed is the least expensive but strong crash bars, and nothing with any fancy finish either. Don’t ask me how I know.
At 11;26 just for info, checking exhaust valves you should remove the rubber piece below to give the feeler guages room to get in from the bottommuch easier.
These videos make things easy, peasy, lemon squeezy.
Another great video GG! So nice that the valve check/adjustments are that accessible, with the boxer engine. Slightly different than a 2 valve Ducati service, lol
Thanks David! Yes, the boxer orientation certainly makes it very easy to do routine maintenance. 😃👍
Nice vid making it very clear. Removing cams is fraught unless teeth are exactly lined up. The reason I would leave this to a bmw dealer is they do it day in day out and whilst checking spec is easy and worthwhile as is renewing plugs, re shimming is more involved and comes with risk of aligning everything incorrectly. Been there, got the teeshirt! These days with my arthritic hands I’d rather leave it to others but oil and filter changes I’d do myself along with general maintenance.
I agree with you of course, and when it comes to removing the cams one needs to actually take a different approach to finding TDC (as they show in the shop manual). My approximate checks are mainly to see where my gaps are in the allowable range, and if they are moving. So far in 60k miles they are stable. When time comes to add shims I will most likely get a technician to do it since sourcing / buying shims can be a PITA that I am not really interested in. Good garages will have assorted shims on hand and can get it sorted in a couple of hours, especially if I show up and tell them *that is all* I want done on the bike.
This was great. Very helpful. I do hope to see the shims replaced at some point for future reference. Thanks.
Noted, Brad. Could be this time around.
Thanks for posting this video Grumpy... really clear and concise.
You are most welcome.
Hi GG - my 2016 RS just passed 12K and might have a go with the clearance check. Can you please share the special tools (Plug coil removal, etc.) that you used and where you sourced them? Thanks for your content here and for your work as a moderator on the RS forum!
Thanks for the comment! The puller was probably bought off Amazon - something like this (tinyurl.com/4thkj9d6) shows up in a search for "BMW R1200RS spark plug coil puller". The feeler gauges I have I got a while back and have no idea where they came from but again you can search for "metric feeler gauges for valves" (e.g. tinyurl.com/yav3zjj4). Other than that, a simple socket set and torque wrench are needed to do the job of checking the clearances. Good luck and have fun.
Sourced a kit through Ted Porter's Beemer Shop "SBVTools BMW Add on Pouch " which will go with one I've purchased from them for my KTM. Nice tools I can bundle and take on the road when needed. Somewhat easier (and less expensive) than looking for and then purchasing through a dealer. They are a great resource for all things GS 911 related as well.
Nice tools. Maybe I should pick up a set of road tools. These aren’t going to help with the valve check though. 😁
If you have a close look at the picture of the add-on set... Here is a quote from Ted: "Yes it’s there, sort of hard to see in the picture. It has the coil puller on one side and an oil cap removal tool on the other and is part of the BMW add-on kit. It’s one of his patented tools." Got the full set for my KTM, compared it to the current offering from motohansa and some others and made the purchase.
@@sciencewithcharlotte7677 OK that makes sense and you get a bunch of other tools as well as the puller.
Yeah. Glad you replaced the plugs. Treat it like an airplane.
Thank you for sharing Grumpy!
Thank you Grumpy Goat 👍
Thanks Grumpy ,,, I'm getting ready to do that on my RS,,, Sorry to have missed you in Helen Ga. Was that a visit here or are you local ?
Nice video but with a little mistake: The right exhaust valve must also be measured from below. To do this, remove the lower rubber. Greetings from Germany, Bernd
Thanks.
Switch to NGK 6213's and be amazed at how much happier it runs
Thanks for the tip. What changes did you see specifically?
The NGK LMAR8D-J is the OEM plug and has a heat range of 8 whereas the NGK 6213 SILMAR9A9S has a heat range of 9 (colder for NGK). Geometrically they are similar so fitment is equivalent, but running a colder plug in some engines could cause deposits to form on the electrodes while running a hotter plug could cause knocking and hence damage to valves. I have no knocking problems and the deposits on the plug electrodes are normal, so I am not sure of the advantage to be seen.
@@GrumpyGoat in my 2015 R1200R the difference was night and day. It starts more quickly, runs markedly smoother everywhere, throttle response and acceleration are much crisper. Most noticably I would say is that it pulls from much lower in the rpm range without objecting. The heat range colder hasn't bothered anything and I've been running the bike on 87 octane since I the second tank after I swapped plugs, there is zero difference in performance.
@@GordysGoodworks - Where are you located? Here in Houston TX we get "summer blend" gas so in the summer months many of us get the double / hard start due to crap gas, and this is using 89 AKI (mid grade). In winter the starting is instantaneous. If this plug would improve starting in the summer I would be interested.
@@GrumpyGoat Southern Indiana, we have summer and winter fuels as well, which seem to make no difference to the bike. Mine never has the double start issue, it always springs to life within the first couple cranks.
@@GordysGoodworks Thanks. I may try these plugs too.
Wanting to do this but ... can i wait until i do the oil change and spark plug change? And is there a way to determine if there is a problem with my clearance--Thanks for the help!!
It depends on how far you are from the oil change / spark plug change. Of the valves are in spec then there is not a problem waiting to check it, but you won’t know of it is in speed until you check it, so best to get it checked off it is due.
I don’t understand your last question. You do the valve check to determine if there is a problem. If it is out of speed then adjustments have to be made using shims. I think it’s best if you take your bike to a mechanic if you are not comfortable doing this work.
Grumpy out of interest what are the make of your crash bars? I've unfortunately have the BMW ones and in true BMW design they have to be removed to replace the plug.
The crash bars are made by SW MOTECH. www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/sw-motech-crash-bars-bmw-r1200r-r1200rs-2015-2017
Damn I purchased the bike with the OEM bars... the SW Motech stuff is far superior, I purchased SW aluminum panniers in preference to the BM side cases and they are superior in my opinion.
The OEM bars' design are, in my opinion and based on eyeball assessment of load bearing capacity, inferior to the SW Motech design. Just as importantly, the SWM bars are more unobstrusive than the OEM bars, which I wanted. Then there is the good access as you noted (and I know). Lastly, a friend of mine with a GS reported that he bent his OEM bars with a drop off road (based on the design) and got rid of the OEM bars and got a replacement from Touratech I think. No experience with those.
who is a producer of a crash bars ? heed?
There are many producers of crash bars. I have bars by SW MOTECH.
My crash bars by Ilium Works...I feel they're overpriced. I also purchased the highway pegs that fit onto front bars.. just for the set of pegs was $300... that's fairly ridiculous if you ask me. Front bars are 375 or 425 . I forget. Rear are 400... pricey
I agree. The thing is, if you have pricey crash bars and you crash you’ll want to replace them and where is the sense in that. The way I see it what is needed is the least expensive but strong crash bars, and nothing with any fancy finish either. Don’t ask me how I know.