best tutorial ever !!! No hipster bla bla bla crap with background music and back and forth out of sequence. Here, just the most important and some amazing additional tips ! Thanks !
Can you tell how much milliwats laser you have i am also deciding to buy green laser pointer for astronomy can you tell how much millwats laser is good for astronomy
Thanks! This actually is a revised edit of a video I did in the summer of last year. The other one was too long so I revised it to make it more concise and to the point for the viewer. But yeah come May it will be hot, humid, and loud again lol!
Thanks! I hear that a longer interval would be a good idea to cool down the censor a bit between shots. I do have the star adv pro, good stuff - my biggest issue is still to get the right focus!
On some intervalometers, the interval must be set to your exposure time plus the interval. If you want a three second delay between 1 minute exposures, your interval would be 00:01:03.
That's the same intervalometer that I have. One thing that I did was cut a small nub of plastic and glued it onto the lock and start/stop button. This helped me find it in the dark, seeing that these buttons are flushed to the surface. Another app to use for PA is called Star Adventurer Mini Console. Works well. Question: When you are PA, do you actually see the green laser light through that eyepiece? You didn't say if you did or not.
@@AVAstronomy there's a little hole on the right hand side of the SA below the tracking speed mode dial that u can look through and see polaris to get a rough polar alignment. I hold my laser pointer parallel to the hole and shine my laser through it
You don't have to put the ball head on the declination assembly. Just personal preference, I find it easier to use RA and DEC to find my target. Great video for the beginner though! Keep'em coming!
Hello! This was a very helpful video. I only had one question. Do you not release the clutch before engaging the mount? Do you leave it tightened? Thank you!
Thank you and glad you found it helpful. Keep the clutch tightened after adjustments have been made. This holds the polar alignment. It will track properly this way. Clear skies and God bless!
Thanks! Nah, I have not autogiided with it yet. I’ve found that of your imaging with lens 135mm or wider it’s not really necessary if you have a good polar alignment. The image scale is very forgiving at that focal length.
Nice video! Whats the best way to take a polar-aligned shot when you can't see Polaris from where you are framing a particular spot (if, say, it's obscured by a tree)? Just wing it?
The only other way really is to use a really wide angle lens, high ISO, and maybe 30 second exposures or shorter. You can get away without polar aligning doing it that way but you’ll get much better results if you polar align. 👍
Great question. It’s all about image scale. Generally, full frame will give you a larger imaging circle / wider FOV (depending on the scope you pair it with). Crop will give you a tighter FOV but also depends on which scope you pair it with.
Will an 80mm telescope be too heavy for the mount? I know the 3 lbs redcat works but just curious if a 5.5 lbs 80 mm scope is too much. I don't see videos of anyone testing that limit.
AV I would like your opinion and any one else who would like to chime in. I have a CPC 1100 on a wedge and buggy wheels. I have been thinking to defork it and put it on a Celestron on an CGEM II mount because it is getting to heavy, or should I sell it and purchase a newer one that’s already on a CGEM II mount?. What do you think?
If the budget allows, I’d just sell the CPC 1100 and go for the CGEM II edge hd. The only hold up will be getting a hold of one. The waitlist is like 6 months
@@figzastro-photography well, in that case I’d definitely consider deforking it. You will have a better shot at getting a hold of a good EQ mount than buying a nee scope/mount. Astromart always has mounts up for sale and this way your not having to wait for 6 months or so for a new rig
This is really an issue more of image scale. The more forgiving the image scale the longer you can go without auto guiding assuming you have solid polar or alignment. For instance if I’m imaging with a 50 mm lens on my star tracker that is properly Poehler lined I could easily do 5+ minutes or longer without any trailing.
This is true but I find that with 100mm or wider angle lens it is really helpful. You have the advantage of framing your target first and making the polar alignment last. Something to keep in mind. 👍
@@AVAstronomy You are right, before I only shoot deep objects which framing isn't that an issue, but recently I try to shoot wider, even with some foreground in the image, really need the ball head to level my frame.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Best Star Adventurer video I’ve seen
Thank you Craig!
best tutorial ever !!! No hipster bla bla bla crap with background music and back and forth out of sequence. Here, just the most important and some amazing additional tips ! Thanks !
Thank you! Yeah, I try to keep my videos to the point and concise as possible for my viewers. Glad you enjoyed it!
Can you tell how much milliwats laser you have i am also deciding to buy green laser pointer for astronomy can you tell how much millwats laser is good for astronomy
Nice piece of kit certainly on my list for my camping trips one day.
How have I never thought of using a laser pointer before! Genius! Great video, Aaron!
Thank you Matt! Cheers bud!
Hopefully I will buy this thing one day 😂 First I need a camera 😁 Cool video dude 👍🏻🔥
Thank you! Clear skies!
Great video, thanks! Looks nice and warm where you are. Up here at 51 deg North, I don't hear the crickets!
Thanks! This actually is a revised edit of a video I did in the summer of last year. The other one was too long so I revised it to make it more concise and to the point for the viewer. But yeah come May it will be hot, humid, and loud again lol!
Just got mine a few weeks ago. Great Video thanks man! 🤘🏻
You’re welcome!
Thanks! I hear that a longer interval would be a good idea to cool down the censor a bit between shots. I do have the star adv pro, good stuff - my biggest issue is still to get the right focus!
On some intervalometers, the interval must be set to your exposure time plus the interval. If you want a three second delay between 1 minute exposures, your interval would be 00:01:03.
Good point. 👍
That's the same intervalometer that I have. One thing that I did was cut a small nub of plastic and glued it onto the lock and start/stop button. This helped me find it in the dark, seeing that these buttons are flushed to the surface. Another app to use for PA is called Star Adventurer Mini Console. Works well. Question: When you are PA, do you actually see the green laser light through that eyepiece? You didn't say if you did or not.
Yes, I can see the laser pointing at the star but another viewer also suggested pointing the laser through the polar scope.
@@AVAstronomy there's a little hole on the right hand side of the SA below the tracking speed mode dial that u can look through and see polaris to get a rough polar alignment. I hold my laser pointer parallel to the hole and shine my laser through it
@@cbellasbusta4643 I have noticed that as well and wondered if the laser would work shinning through that hole.
You don't have to put the ball head on the declination assembly. Just personal preference, I find it easier to use RA and DEC to find my target. Great video for the beginner though! Keep'em coming!
Thanks Paul! Clear skies!
@@AVAstronomy clear skies to you too!
Hello! This was a very helpful video. I only had one question. Do you not release the clutch before engaging the mount? Do you leave it tightened? Thank you!
Thank you and glad you found it helpful. Keep the clutch tightened after adjustments have been made. This holds the polar alignment. It will track properly this way. Clear skies and God bless!
My ballhead doesn't go on that L bracket. I have a Dolica tripod, what can i do in this case? do i need an adapter for that?
shoot me an email with some more details and I'd be glad to help. avastronomy@gmail.com
Great review and setup, have you used the Star Aventurer with a star guider?
Thanks! Nah, I have not autogiided with it yet. I’ve found that of your imaging with lens 135mm or wider it’s not really necessary if you have a good polar alignment. The image scale is very forgiving at that focal length.
Nice video! Whats the best way to take a polar-aligned shot when you can't see Polaris from where you are framing a particular spot (if, say, it's obscured by a tree)? Just wing it?
The only other way really is to use a really wide angle lens, high ISO, and maybe 30 second exposures or shorter. You can get away without polar aligning doing it that way but you’ll get much better results if you polar align. 👍
Cool vid, nice explanations
Thank you sir! Glad you found it helpful!
Question: Why not just use the app to set up exposures and ditch the intervalometer? The shutter release cable is about $5.
Great idea, but the intervalometer has excellent battery life, simple, compact, and gets the job done. Guess, I'm just kind of old school
crop/full frame which are best for deep space shoot ?
Great question. It’s all about image scale. Generally, full frame will give you a larger imaging circle / wider FOV (depending on the scope you pair it with). Crop will give you a tighter FOV but also depends on which scope you pair it with.
It looks like you found the straight line of a nearby house in the viewfinder, then went on to the intervalometer. Did you make an adjustment?
Hi, nah, I left it alone after that. Once I get it aligned like that then I leave it.
Will an 80mm telescope be too heavy for the mount? I know the 3 lbs redcat works but just curious if a 5.5 lbs 80 mm scope is too much. I don't see videos of anyone testing that limit.
It should work. I believe the total payload capacity of this mount is about 10 lbs. so, I’d say go for it.
AV I would like your opinion and any one else who would like to chime in. I have a CPC 1100 on a wedge and buggy wheels. I have been thinking to defork it and put it on a Celestron on an CGEM II mount because it is getting to heavy, or should I sell it and purchase a newer one that’s already on a CGEM II mount?. What do you think?
If the budget allows, I’d just sell the CPC 1100 and go for the CGEM II edge hd. The only hold up will be getting a hold of one. The waitlist is like 6 months
@@AVAstronomy I forgot to mention that the CPC 1100 is an HD Edge also.
@@figzastro-photography well, in that case I’d definitely consider deforking it. You will have a better shot at getting a hold of a good EQ mount than buying a nee scope/mount. Astromart always has mounts up for sale and this way your not having to wait for 6 months or so for a new rig
If you put 2 batteries in the illuminator, you can see the polar reticle more clearly.
Yeah it’s time for some new batteries.
I new at this Astro is for tracking Stars , Solar is for plants, celestial is for galaxy on the dial?
It exactly sure what you are asking? Are you referring to the different dial settings on the star adventurer mount?
So what is the maximum exposure length without an autoguider?
This is really an issue more of image scale. The more forgiving the image scale the longer you can go without auto guiding assuming you have solid polar or alignment. For instance if I’m imaging with a 50 mm lens on my star tracker that is properly Poehler lined I could easily do 5+ minutes or longer without any trailing.
You don't really need the ball head Btw, the Declination mount will get you point to anywhere on the sky
This is true but I find that with 100mm or wider angle lens it is really helpful. You have the advantage of framing your target first and making the polar alignment last. Something to keep in mind. 👍
@@AVAstronomy You are right, before I only shoot deep objects which framing isn't that an issue, but recently I try to shoot wider, even with some foreground in the image, really need the ball head to level my frame.
Using a Redcat 51, do you think i should still use a ballhead with it to align my target or just for proper framing?
That's not balanced
I agree, wasn't perfectly balanced but for this type of imaging it's not a deal breaker and will still yield solid results. Clear Skies!