Fixing Transit Body leaks! | EP41 | Ford Transit Campervan Build
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 янв 2021
- This episode wouldn’t need to exist if I had fixed these early on. The roof plug and roof rack mounts are a known leaky spot on the Ford Transit Mk8, Additionally much like the Mercedes Sprinter the clips which hold on the side body moulding panels leaks. Both of these leaks having Allowed moisture getting into the wall cavity and eventually condensating on the van is bodywork. In this episode I dry out the walls and fix the leaks using Sikaflex EBT+
Vapour barriers and Condensation! peoples favourite subject disadvantages and advantages of having them and not. Vapour barries are great at stopping Moisture from inside the van getting into the wall cavity but unfortunately once the moisture gets into the wall cavity from the inside or the outside it's very difficult for it to escape and can build up.
I stand by my decision for a vapour barrier in my circumstances I believe living in the van during British winter and having a shower system, a vapour barrier has more advantages to stopping more moisture get into the walls and disadvantages.
Edit* just got reference, A common issue with the Mercedes sprinter are blocked drainage holes in the Sill, the Transit sill are designed differently and don’t have this issue.
eBay listing to the moulding trim clips I used, I’d recommend buying more than just one pack of 10
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANS...
-----------
Gear up for adventure with these exclusive deals:
🔋 ROAMER BATTERIES! Elevate your journey - [Affiliate Link] roamer.com/?aff=16
🔥 AUTOTERM Discount Code: mispronounced5% - [Exclusive 5% off] planarheaters.co.uk/home
🚿 BOBILVANS Hot water ! - [Affiliate Link] www.bobilvans.co.uk/?ref=MPA5
☕️ Support the channel! Grab a coffee, beer, or diesel at: www.buymeacoffee.com/misprono...
🛒 Check out my curated Amazon Store for van build essentials: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/mispron...
Your purchases fuel the adventure. Thanks for being part of the journey! 🌟
Connect with the adventure on social media:
📧 Email: Alex@alexfrood.com
🌐 Expedition Photography Website: www.AlexFrood.com
📸 Instagram: / alexfrood
📘 Facebook: / alexfroodoutdoorinstru...
Stay in the loop and join the exploration! 🌍✨
Disclaimer: Some of these links are affiliate links where I'll earn a small commission if you make a purchase at no additional cost to you. Also as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.⚠️
Welcome to my Ford Transit Mk8 Van build series.
My name is Alex Frood, I’m a UK based Freelance Expedition Leader and Outdoor instructor. During a Uk Covid-19 Lockdown I am converting my 2018 Ford Transit Mk8 L3H3 into a full-time Camper.
These videos are not How-to videos but showing my process for my conversion. feel free to copy me but id always recommend doing your own research as well.
--------------------
Just about to start the insulation on my MK8 transit, thank you for doing this video, I've just ordered extra sealant to make sure I don't come across the same issue! Thanks for your help!
No problem at all. Definitely bits I wish I had known about earlier. All the best with your build!
Awesome, mid build and full time living. Ready for furniture build but seriously need to do exactly what you've shown us. Appreciated 😊
No problem at all. Hope you have found it useful
Concerning Roof leak problems, I’ve used eternabond tape. It’s highly recommended on RV forums and works great. Cheers from Canada...Thanks for Sharing, love the van design!
Thanks for the tip! I look that stuff up
Nice vid. I recently had the exact same on 2017 transit side trims. Still very early in the build though so no walls or insulation yet gave me good access. The same as yours mine was leaking on multiple clips and pooling in the sills. My initial fix was just to run the sealant across the top edge of the trim on the external. I was too cautious/scared of damaging trim/ clips to remove it although seeing your video gives me some more confidence. I did liberally apply sealant on the clips on the inside as an extra measure as I could access them. Although with hindsight that will make removing these trims a lot more difficult in the future (here's hoping i dont need to). My expectation in the long run is that every few years potentially clean the external seal off and reapply if it is no longer watertight. I'm yet to seal up all the roof caps as not fitted roof bars yet but definitely will be before the roof insulation, roof bars, solar etc go on
Glad to see I’m not the only one with the issues! Yeah originally I was worried about breaking the trim clips but then since about £3 for a pack of 10. I wasn’t too bothered and I’ve always found them, even on my previous vehicle trim clips were particular fragile and break easily when removing but that cheap to replace so not too problematic. All the best to no more leaks for me or you!
That argument with the vapour barrier, so true! We decided to do a vapour barrier for the reflective side of its benefits but we still get moisture build up!! So frustrating! 🙄
I agree! I think especially in British winter conditions which are fairly damp!. The pros far outweigh the cons. When experimenting with this process of drying out the walls I was impressed to see that if I blew a powerful fan in to the top of the wall cavity in my temporary drying hole I can get a slight amount of air movement at the bottom drying hole. So I am looking at installing a low voltage fan which could be permanently left on or occasionally used to vent the stagnant air in the wall cavity. Which I think is the best of both worlds. Realistic expectations on effectiveness of a vapour barrier preventing the majority of moisture reaching the wall. But also having the option of just giving a slight amount of airflow in the walls to remove any moisture which finds its way in from the inside or the outside.
So this water must be tearing you up with all that hard work you did I feel for you. I am a truck driver and one thing that we know is to run the AC on your vehicle when you drive anywhere it quickly and easily remove moisture don’t know if you know about that or not but thought I’d throw it out there to you. Oh yeah you can also throw key to the AC unit still works OK the AC unit. A lot of people think that it will hurt the AC unit if you put heat to it but it won’t. It is also good if you are wet from a hike or whatever to run the AC to dry you up.
Pretty common issue in the UK. After fixing the leaks it’s no longer much of a problem . As I think I said in the video it’s not so much moist air from inside ( breathing and showering ) getting into the wall cavity but the water coming through the outside and getting stuck in the wall cavity than staying there. With the heater on and the vent which I run on 10% 24/7 nowadays it keeps the humidity levels down to 40% odd
Yes that’s a very good idea basically I was kind of saying that for other folk too and I should add I’m glad you replied that you have to have the AC on recirculating air NOT from outside this should be obvious but. It works extremely fast at removing moisture. I do live in a van like situation but I have a truck camper that separates me from the cabin and it’s one of my biggest regrets not having an AC unit. I’m really enjoying your videos thanks
I recommend doing the front doors as well, water comes in the same way and collects in the pocket under the plastic trim at the bottom of the step. It then ends up on the inside of your windscreen every morning.
Hi mate absolutely loving your van build great job, well done and thanks question would the dehumidifier run off your lithiums? Thanks
Thank you very much! I’m pretty sure you could run some sort of dehumidifier off 12 V if you wanted. But I think dealing with the root cause being the body leaks and then just good ventilation would be a better idea
I was thinking of adding drain holes to the bottom of the sills, I think condensation and water ingress are inevitable, best let it out?
As in the bottom of the cargo area walls? Although it would be a good idea the bottom of those walls it’s so contoured in different areas you would have to fill it with so many holes to actually have a drain effectively. As moisture ingress is inevitable. I’m going to building ventilation into the top and bottom of the walls with maybe the addition of a 12 V fan just to encourage even the slightest amount of airflow .
yay
Will need to apply these to my van also. Cheers buddy 👍
No problem! Better to find it & fix it when it’s only an annoyance and before it becomes an issue
@@MispronouncedAdventures Penny for your thoughts. I wonder if I can just drop some sealant on the plugs from the inside? I haven't insulated or walled up yet.
@@simonomis514 yeah I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t, shouldn’t break any clips like I did. As long as you get can the sealant in the right place to don’t see why not. I might still run a bead of sealant on the top of the panel from outside as well
@@MispronouncedAdventures hi guys, I've been debating whether to seal the clips from the inside or not..and we were waiting "for Alex to put that video on RUclips at some point" (so thank you!)...my argument against sealing from the inside is that
1. It is hard to properly clean out the surface around the clip and probably imposible to remove any dirt that's wedged in between the clip and the van skin.
2. Some of the clips may allow water in only when the van is moving, vibrating.
3. Assuming you manage to get a healthy bead of sikafkex around the clips, any water that comes through the hole will be effectively blocked there. Rust may follow.
I think the way you did it is the proper way since you are keeping water out.
It’s definitely something I should’ve done at the start! yeah I agree with you and I felt applying the sealant from the outside will give the best final result for the clips. As you said you can clean off the paintwork whole and apply a good amount of sealant to a bit of a flat surface before you clip the panel back on, and given the design of the clips themselves have a small gasket which doesn’t seem to work very well this is a good option. It seems on the sprinters it’s common to fill those from the inside, but they do have a different clip design Imagine.
I also think running the bead of sealant along the top edge as a second line of defence is also good idea. Which might be a little bit easier for me as my van is a very dark grey so using black sealant is not very noticeable. Imagine on white or silver models other paint colours a translucent sealant will do a good job at being nearly invisible
Great video to mention some possible issues for camper conversions!
Did you have any problems with water leaks caused by door handles and locking mechanisms? If so, we’re you able to rectify them?
No noticeable leaks from the doorhandles or mechanisms. However, I wouldn’t be surprised if there are minor ones. at least the doors themselves separate from the rest of the wall cavities
It's a good idea to enclose any of the fibrous insulating materials - Rockwool , Diolen or the re- cycled pet insulation , in layflat pvc tubing and seal it before installation in the lower parts of the van where water would normally collect.
What people don't realise is that although these materials are hydrophobic (do not absorb water), they retain water, either via condensation from within, or water ingress and will ultimately rot the metal.
Did you have to use any other clips when you did the trim?? I see a few longer black clips from the inside that I can’t identify!
I’m trying to remember, I don’t think that longer black ones were clips. More just plastic bits to get alignment correct. I only needed the white ones
Featured snippet from the web
If the water vapor content stays the same and the temperature drops, the relative humidity increases. If the water vapor content stays the same and the temperature rises, the relative humidity decreases. This is because colder air doesn't require as much moisture to become saturated as warmer air.
Yep indeed. I like the towel analogy. If you’re trying to mop up a spill of water on the floor you choose to use a big towel not a small towel. The big towel is warm air, The small towel is the cold air. You use the big towel / warm air to mop up the moisture because it can contain more before it saturated. Hence in the van it’s easier to remove humid air when you keep the inside temperature warm, as the air could contain much more water before it started to condensate/ reached saturation level and the ventilation helps remove the saturated air drawing in less humid.
When that humid air occasionally reaches the wall cavities it quickly cools down, your big towel shrinks to a little towel which means it’s more saturated overall and because of that the water starts to come out / condensation
If you want a high quality vapour barrier. Before you build your van track down and storage company shipping container vapour barrier spraying company as they can spray your van with a moisture resistant foam coating
Crazy that those trim holes leak even on a Merc !!!...Just wondered, money no object, to eliminate condensation issues completely, would you have your van spray foam insulated ???
I don’t think I would personally go spray foam. It’s not an area I’m 100% full research. I but like with my style of build things can always be undone or change it if need be. Spray foam is fully committing. I’ve heard on many occasions it’s brilliant, but I’ve also heard if it’s not done well or if it separates from the van’s metal skin it can lead to issues down the line. It’s money was no object I would go flat bed van with custom build box using a composite insulation board for walls, ( outside, insulation and inside wall ) common construction design on some of the large German ( another countries too ) overland vehicles
@@MispronouncedAdventures totally agree with your insulation comment...I've going back and forth deciding on spray or soft insulation...,and let's not get started on the with or without vapour barrier !!!,.... am currently leaning towards professionally done spray foam and leaving a few empty flexible conduit pipe side to side and back to front in case of missing electrics or additions later on...
This would be a pretty good solution. Spray foam on the panel area is leaving pillars and so on empty for access
Hi, its been a couple of years since the video and the issue with the leaks. How has it been working with the sealing the leaks? I do Mold inspections so, since i see wood in the van also any signs of mold? have notice notice and change in your health? more colds? coughs? FYI You can get cheap test kits from home depot which is just petidish dish that you send back to the lab to testing for mold.
I checked the inside of the walls regularly, their bone dry. As for mold , there is very little untreated, unpainted or unvarnished wood Also a number of temperature & humidity sensors throughout the vehicle, humidity is pretty low, the maxfan is always on is 10%, so there is almost continuous air flow. I very rarely even get condensation on the windows.
What be an interesting test to have a look at
Your insights are so helpful! I just have some questions: do you have a link to the ford trim clips you bought? I need to seal these clips on my transit and want to have spare clips to hand if they break
Also, which sealant did you use to seal the brackets of your roof bars and roof plugs? Seeing lots of different opions on sikaflex, and also tiger seal. I'm about to install ULTI bars on the roof.
Hoping to get all the potential leak issues out of the way early on in my build, fingers crossed!
Sorry, just noticed you posted a link already for the clips!
I just my question on sealing the roof mounting points then. Which sealant did you use, and would you recommend putting the selant in the bolt hold and around the bolt, and then fixing the bracket? Or simply on top of the bolt and around the bracket?
Sealant on the roof I use Sikaflex EBT+, which I know doesn’t have the increased UV resistance like Sikaflex 522 but since those ports are now covered by the solar panels they are mostly in the shade. I would be tempted to install the roof rack using the rubber seals for the brackets as intended and then to seal the exterior around it.
Interesting! I will have to check out the clips on my van as well. Where did you get the replacement clips from?
eBay. That’s a very good point. I’ll add that too the description. Ford moulding / trim clips I believe. It’s seems Ford use that type on a number of vehicle models
@@MispronouncedAdventures hi Alex, if you have a chance to drop a link to those clips, that would be fantastic. Are there multiple moulding clip types that you had to buy?
Here the eBay listing I used. They sell a large packs well than just 10, I would recommend a larger pack unless you’re feeling particularly bold. As I used the whole pack
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT-SIDE-MOULDING-DOOR-BODY-TRIM-PANEL-CLIPS-from-2014-4th-Generation-/193250319201?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Can i just ask have you had any more issues with this after sealing the clips?
I sealed my clips up and still have water ingress, maybe ive not done it correctly 😅
Its annoying because i need to get my insulation installed and get on with my build.
Never had a issue again after this video
@MispronouncedAdventures did you have an issue with the seam sealer as well or have I read that somewhere else?
Rather than pulling all of those panels off, wouldnt it be much easier to just run a line of sikaflex aling the top of the panel to stop any water running down? Means there is no need to rip them off and deal with all that hassle?
I did both, but probably on the next van I just run a bead along the top
@MispronouncedAdventures I commented prematurely whilst watching your video 😓. I see you went on and run that line of sika flex too. I think that's what I'll do on mine. I have the exact same van as yours 😊
@woodside223 I think the top bead probably does 90% of the work. The main issue is the water which runs down the side of the van and behind the panel.
@@MispronouncedAdventures agreed 👍
You should call this the far too much sealant channel :)
I think I used the right amount for once! Well apart from the roof plugs! I just put loads on
So the left side is pushed on with the clips, but the right side are bolted on?
The main body of the van so the entire driver-side was clipped, the rear of the passenger-side is clipped. But the sliding door which takes up the majority of the passenger-side appears to be bolted
@@MispronouncedAdventures thanks for the reply. Surprised you haven’t got more sub’s tbh!
Hi. Middle panels entirely clips in or there is some sort of screw. Should I start open up from wheel arches? Thanks
Yeah. the wheel arch and connecting panel have two white screwed in clips..... which I didn’t know about on the driver side just pulled them off..... turned out on the passenger side when I unscrew them from the screw on the inside of the wheel arch rim it made life a lot easier.
Sorry miss read part of your comment. I found the entirety of the long panel and the short panels in front of the wheel arches only clipped on, The wheel arch trim had some plastic clips with a metal screw as well as normal clips. The sliding door appears to be bolted/screwed and clipped
@@MispronouncedAdventures Thank you so much
No problem at all
@@MispronouncedAdventures I did exactly the same thing with the wheel arch trim even though I'd read your comment 🤦🏻♂️😂 Needless to say passenger side was alot easier after I removed the two screws. Been enjoying your videos, thanks for all the tips and insight 🤙🏻
Have you checked your drain hole mine were blocked? Once unblocked and dried out I sprayed wax oil into all of the cavities.
Which model vehicle do you have? a sprinter? The drain holes blocking on the sprinter sills / skirt is one I know about but The mK8 transit seems a different design, bottem of the skirts ( under van floor level are open with large holes. but internally the bottem on the wall cavities doesn’t seem to have an drain holes.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Hi, I have a Crafter I assumed they all had some form of drainage in those cavities. Over Christmas my sliding door drain froze up allowing the step cavity fill with water then freeze.
Ah I see. Yeah the crafter and sprinter have little drain holes at the bottom of sills and the doors. The transit has more open sills but does have drain holes in the doors.
Oh no I hope there wasn’t any damage to your van! I didn’t consider that a temporary blockage could be water freezing in the drain hole.
Good old Ford's know wonder transits rusted out . Iv driven this mk 8 with currier work in the past liked them alot and was economical aswell
Indeed but for the most part the rust issue of the Mk7 and before has been fixed in the MK8
@@MispronouncedAdventures Thanks was hoping that was the case still was a shame to see your van leaking after all the hard work
Hi great information on your build. Just noticed you changed the color or your alloy wheels. I have exactly the same van and wheels but yours look far better in the darker color. Can i ask did you do them yourself, how and what color. Thanks Jeff
Glad you are enjoying the build. Yeah my alloys were originally silver. My brother and I took them off, keyed up the surface ( light sanded ), 2 coats etch primer and then 2 coat a of Matt black alloy paint. all from Amazon and cheap as chips to do for a pretty big Visual difference.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Definitely more stealth/aggressive looking. Ive had mine re mapped as well to 190 bhp massive difference with weight.
Nice! That must be a bit of power. Mine is the 170bp version. Never I thought about remapping
Mispronounced Adventures yes quick but more important you don’t have to think about taking over in 6 th it’s there when you want it. Wish I would have seen your vid on lowering the tank paid £900 last yr to have new fuel pump fitted !! Robbed 😩😡
Yeah I do remember when the van was empty before I started work on it. The 170bp made it pretty quick. Less so now with the extra weight.
Ah that’s a shame, I’m not familiar with the location of the fuel pump I presume it’s pretty near the tank?
One question, since DVLA seemingly has tightened the rules regarding changing vehicle type to motor caravan on the V5, have you already done this or when you're planning to do it what are you going to do regarding the graphics/awning? Or you are not bothered about changing the type? Keep up the good work and I am start a conversion very soon it's inspirational
I’m personally not bothered to change it with the DVLA to a motor caravan on the V5. It seems since about 2009 that’s been almost impossible. In my case my Insurance company specialised modified & self build without a change to the V5. I had the same with my last van and found no issues in 6 years of owning. Glad you are enjoying my build series
Thanks for the reply I will look into that too! So far all the insurance I have looked at all said they need the V5 to be right, may I ask which company have you gone for if you don't mind?
Brentacre. Been with them for about 7 years now. Great customer service I’ve had. Not personally ever made a claim with them. But also seems good things online and I know many others with them
You need to clean out the drains. The better way to do this I used black silicon search youtube for "Water In The Sills & More Rust SPRINTER Overlander CAMPER VAN Build" he's made a video on it
Completely different model of vehicle, The transit sills are huge and mostly open at the bottom, unlike the sprinter with which a mostly closed with small drain holes which are a known issue. On the transit there is no connection between the sills and cargo area, they are separated. On the transit the bottom row of moulding panels clips leads into the sills which is below the van’s floor height, whist the top row lead into bottom the cargo areas walls, they are no drain holes in that area ( apart particular on the sliding door )
I feel the producers of these vans definitely neglect these kind of things, I mean they just drill holes in the vans to place protection panels creating a much worse problem in the process. Feels like a recipe to tear down vans quicker.
Yeah, but all vehicles with
Plastic body panels use trim clips like this. Just usually with cars people don’t take them apart as much
I don't get the no vapour barrier argument.
Without the barrier the warm moist air might find its way through small gaps and that moisture condesates becoming liquid. How can the water thats mixed in with insulation then get back into the living space. There isn't any airflow behind the walls to speak of so how can the water evapourate out, plus heat wants to move from hot to cold.
IMO the best thing is use a vapour barrier and if you've used the correct insulation there should be a thin void against the van wall where any water can run down the walls and out the factory drain holes.
Vapour barries is also an interesting argument, which is a big part of it comes down use of the vehicle and your general on climate. In my case here is isn’t really moisture from the inside of the van living space getting into wall ( although I imagine some of it obviously will, as creating a proper vapour barrier isn’t possible in a bit in my opinion. ) but the most of liquid was getting into between the outside wall and the vapour barrier from the leaking moulding clips.
With my wording of evaporate out and mean in respect that vapour barrier in a van are never 100% and in summer the due point won’t let its condensate on the metal, whilst the air mass will stay moist and hopefully over time make its way out due the vapour Barrier not being 100%.
Doing some experimentation with creating airflow in the wall panels with low and high vents and maybe a fan to assist.
I’m definitely in the field of for my use the vapour barrier has been a good move. given the shower room and full time. even if it only eliminate 95% of the moist air getting behind the walls. Im have to deal with the 5% by venting the walls occasionally. I think British winter weather no vapour barrier would lead to a serious amount of condensation behind the walls, far more then could easily evaporate out.
Unfortunately this model of transit do not have factory drain holes are the bottom of the inside cargo area wall panels.
@@MispronouncedAdventures my bad, the video was about body leaks but when i heard vapour barrier i went a little off topic.
You fixed the body panels nicely and the roof leak was an over sight.
Your point about allowing access to dry out voids in the wall is a good one. I did think about something similar, maybe vents that can open and close when needed.
I'm suprised the Transit doesn't have drain holes though, i thought they all did.
I was thinking about getting one of those extending inspection cameras. It could work really well for checking behind walls.
No problem at all I do you mentioning the word vapour barrier was always going to lead to comments about it. Although the videos about fixing leak, vapour barrier discussion is definitely relevant to the effects of those leaks. I also find it quite strange about the drain holes but I confirmed with two of my subscribers who also have Mk8 transits but yet to do their walls to have a look let in case I miss them and they couldn’t see any evidence of drainage holes. Definitely going to go forward with the ventilation idea
It would appear that there are two types of holes in most vehicles - ones that let water in (especially window seals on the front doors) and ones that let water out, but why do the latter seldom work or get blocked?
Agree that your insulation should not rot, but what about mould growing if it is constantly wet/moist and warm?
I know right! The bottom of the wall cavities to the van floor level don’t appear to have any type of drainage option. The wall sills under the van level are open and have large holes so don’t have the same issue as this printer is with those drain holes being block. There are some larger vent holes located at the bottom of pillars but generally not in the main sections of panel.
The wet insulation issue of this video happened quite a few weeks ago now, since sealing and having the fan ventilating most of the time I haven’t seen a recurring problem with of the walls wetting out.
Something which I didn’t get across in the video very well was, The insulation as a W hole wasn’t soaked, just the surface which was touching be outside metal of the van.
Thanks for the detailed replies and clarification. I’m in “camp have a vapour barrier” personally - so long as it’s on the inside of the insulation, as I understand that humidity is relative to temperature, and reducing the air temperature will cause condensation at some point. Not an issue as you note if you can keep (warm) air moving to reduce the build up of moisture behind the wall panels, and with the 5Kw heater you are not short of heat to counter the losses via conduction through the van body to the outside.
Yes it’s been pretty impressive after more experimenting how much I can effect and control the humidity in a positive way inside the van. I generally leave the roof vent circulating on its lowest setting all the time and at the minute the heating is on most of the time. It’s not difficult to get the humidity in the air in the van to 30 or 40% whilst the outside can be 99% humidity. I definitely am in the vapour barrier camp considering my usage and being based on the damp UK winter but I think having ways to deal with the limitations of the vehicle vapour barrier such as options for venting the walls passively or actively is a good option
Doh. I was fortunate to stumble across this video at the start of our build. ruclips.net/video/2o4sdk7zNhE/видео.html I'll have to check my roof grommets but not had any issues so thanks for that tip. Another place i found was around the door handles (sliding side and rear). I added a bit of silicon around the rubber but not the best design. There might be a drain in the bottom of door - i cant remember.
Yeah, easy fix for you! I know black rock outfitter video. It’s a great example for the sprinter issue. I did think the transit has same issue as the sill are a different design but clips are still an issue.
From my understanding doors do a drain Hoes but those have been all dry for me
Also remembered while i was testing water tightness...where the two parts of the rear van are joined together there is a silicon joint. This is drivers side but half way down the side of the van (imagine where the rear part of the sliding door would be). I had a pin prick hole in the dark grey silicon where it meets the roof. I filled the hole and added a small bead of extra silicon along the whole joint
I know exactly what you’re speaking about to! The body seams on my driver-side between the main body panel and the rear body panel. It seems they spot weld the panels together and then seal the rest of the seam sealant . There was a tiny hole in mine which leaked, I too I filled that in with sealant. Luckily I noticed that one at the very start of the van build
For any side plastic trims remove them and seal all the plugs and holes, same issue as the sprinters. Check out blackrock outfitters channel, he has agreat video on this issue.
Aye Ivd seen blackrock outdfitters video, it’s a helpful one. It’s not a massive known issue on the transits unlike the sprinters. The transit has a different design from the sprinter so you don’t have the issue of water pooling are the drains & getting blocked. But on the transit you can’t do the trim clips individually.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Its made me think about side panels when i eventually get a van. love the vids very informative and at last a uk van build
Much appreciated! I think to be honest all van models I going to have some sort of leak or water ingress in those body panels, unless they are sealed up with sealant
Another interesting video but boy you need a new microphone!
Yeah unfortunately the old build video stuff has crap audio which was fixed later on with different equipment
Christ, how can Ford designers get away with a van design that leaks from the top and sides? Bloody terrible.
It’s is the same with quite a few of the vans where the body trim clips are on leaking point
@@MispronouncedAdventures Designed to fail. I am an egineer of sorts and hate this sort of thing where a company/peson is not silling to learn from it's mistakes.