bro! you're awesome, people say that e36 are death, but thats not truth, your videos are very usefull for me and for the people in Panama that still have an e36, thanks man! keep rolling and tuned!
👊🏾 much much thanks bro. Didn't think it would be THAT simple as hand rotating lol. Among my timing being off, I'm a little pissed at then results of the head i had machined. I would think it would look new like the one you have in this video but it kinda looks like they jus threw lube on it, and wrapped it up pretty to make it look like somethin was done. I've waited a while for this and I'd be pissed if somethin happens again..
getting the head pressure checked and decked is really all you need, I had them throw in new valve guides, retainers, and a full valve job so they did alot of extra work on my cylinder head, just getting it decked the face will be clean, but the cylinders and valves wont be as clean. it doesnt have to look pretty, as long as it works hah
M3NACE hope you don't mind all these questions but I appreciate how quick to answer them 👏🏾 I watched the vid when you were explaining the timing from scratch when you get it back from machined. You also didn't have the arches on there either, so I'm still kinda stuck. I don't wanna scratch anything if I use a wrench or somethin. Or would it help if I put the gears on from the previous head and try to time it that way?
the camshafts need to be on the cylinder head for them to be timed. they need to be bolted down and in place, then they can be rotated into position. you can time them and then try bolting them down, but you risk breaking the cams on install. this video was figurative, its meant to explain how the cams are timed. when you are timing the cams for real, they need to be bolted into the cylinder head in place. once they are bolted down, you will then time them. the camshafts will need to be rotated by a wrench, because they are too hard to rotate by hand.
The Grube absolutely. You do not need to remove the cams to remove or install the head. Watch my head removal video, I explain how you slide the tools past the cams to remove headbolts. Installing the head is the same thing but backwards
the only thing that is if you get the head machined (highly reccomended) before you install it, depending on the shop, they might ask you to remove the cams or if they want to do it themselves then they will charge you labor for it.
The reason I ask is I have a donor engine that had a cracked rod bearing. I don't believe it had overheated, the residual coolant in it was nice and green. I'm hoping I can pull off the donor head and if the gasket looks fine I can just put it on my original engine which I know had a blown head gasket. Make sense?
you definitely should be able to use the head. here is where I cannot emphasize the importance of machine work. the machine shop will re-deck the head, making it a perfect mating surface for the NEW headgasket. they will also tell you if the head is good. you will never know if the head is cracked or has a bad valve seal until the motor is put together and you have a misfire. the shop will outright tell you if its good or bad. as for the headgasket and headbolts: you need new ones.factory headbolts are stretch bolts, once they are used they stretch into their final torque and once they are stretched, they are done. if you re-use them, they will not have the same clamping force and either the head will lift off the block and you will loose compression or the headbolts will break. all bad. as for the headgasket, it is a crush gasket. what forces the gasket to seal is the metal and material of the gasket gets sandwitched between the block and the head, and the headgasket seals. once that seal is broken, its done. you will need new ones. headgaskets and headbolts are not too pricey, but you cannot reuse the gasket or the bolts even if they look good.
Hey I set everything to TDC everything was in timing out everything back together cranked no start a couple pops and smoke out the intake not the exhaust! Redid it three more times watch a video step by step by step for two hours! I for sure have it in time crank but no start this time sprayed some starting fluid through the intake boot and some fire puffed out the boot what’s going on I lined up all the dots and got the harmonic balancer in time as well replaces camshaft position sensor replaced tensioner still a crank but no start it sounds like she wants to go but she isn’t I here the fuel pump engaging and even pushed on the nipple at the end of the fuel rail and it squirted fuel please help!!!!
M3NACE yes it did then I was driving one day and the car died on me looked further into it it got knocked out of timing because the timing guide rail broke but I also realized I was driving with a blown head gasket so I also redid that as well
M3NACE also I got new ignition coils and spark plugs the spark plugs were pregap but the ignition coils I got were cheap eBay ones could this be a cause of bad ignition coils and if that’s a possibility how would I test not just the ignition coils but the ignition coil harness as well
bro! you're awesome, people say that e36 are death, but thats not truth, your videos are very usefull for me and for the people in Panama that still have an e36, thanks man! keep rolling and tuned!
Deslher Flores thanks man! Dont forget to like, subscribe and share to support the channel! I come out with new videos every week my friend!
good i need the vanos video, thats where i always screw up, cant wait.
It will be coming soon my brotha hah
dope!
👊🏾 much much thanks bro. Didn't think it would be THAT simple as hand rotating lol. Among my timing being off, I'm a little pissed at then results of the head i had machined. I would think it would look new like the one you have in this video but it kinda looks like they jus threw lube on it, and wrapped it up pretty to make it look like somethin was done. I've waited a while for this and I'd be pissed if somethin happens again..
getting the head pressure checked and decked is really all you need, I had them throw in new valve guides, retainers, and a full valve job so they did alot of extra work on my cylinder head, just getting it decked the face will be clean, but the cylinders and valves wont be as clean. it doesnt have to look pretty, as long as it works hah
pretty sure i should drain the engine oil before i pull the head shouldnt i? lol i feel like thats a stupid question
its up to you, I didn't drain the oil until after the head was off. it does need to be drained but it really doesn't matter when it get drained.
M3NACE hope you don't mind all these questions but I appreciate how quick to answer them 👏🏾 I watched the vid when you were explaining the timing from scratch when you get it back from machined. You also didn't have the arches on there either, so I'm still kinda stuck. I don't wanna scratch anything if I use a wrench or somethin. Or would it help if I put the gears on from the previous head and try to time it that way?
the camshafts need to be on the cylinder head for them to be timed. they need to be bolted down and in place, then they can be rotated into position. you can time them and then try bolting them down, but you risk breaking the cams on install. this video was figurative, its meant to explain how the cams are timed. when you are timing the cams for real, they need to be bolted into the cylinder head in place. once they are bolted down, you will then time them. the camshafts will need to be rotated by a wrench, because they are too hard to rotate by hand.
I was wondering,Do you think it's possible to swap an M50 head from one engine to another WITHOUT removing the cams?
The Grube absolutely. You do not need to remove the cams to remove or install the head. Watch my head removal video, I explain how you slide the tools past the cams to remove headbolts. Installing the head is the same thing but backwards
the only thing that is if you get the head machined (highly reccomended) before you install it, depending on the shop, they might ask you to remove the cams or if they want to do it themselves then they will charge you labor for it.
The reason I ask is I have a donor engine that had a cracked rod bearing. I don't believe it had overheated, the residual coolant in it was nice and green. I'm hoping I can pull off the donor head and if the gasket looks fine I can just put it on my original engine which I know had a blown head gasket. Make sense?
you definitely should be able to use the head. here is where I cannot emphasize the importance of machine work. the machine shop will re-deck the head, making it a perfect mating surface for the NEW headgasket. they will also tell you if the head is good. you will never know if the head is cracked or has a bad valve seal until the motor is put together and you have a misfire. the shop will outright tell you if its good or bad. as for the headgasket and headbolts: you need new ones.factory headbolts are stretch bolts, once they are used they stretch into their final torque and once they are stretched, they are done. if you re-use them, they will not have the same clamping force and either the head will lift off the block and you will loose compression or the headbolts will break. all bad. as for the headgasket, it is a crush gasket. what forces the gasket to seal is the metal and material of the gasket gets sandwitched between the block and the head, and the headgasket seals. once that seal is broken, its done. you will need new ones. headgaskets and headbolts are not too pricey, but you cannot reuse the gasket or the bolts even if they look good.
Hey I set everything to TDC everything was in timing out everything back together cranked no start a couple pops and smoke out the intake not the exhaust! Redid it three more times watch a video step by step by step for two hours! I for sure have it in time crank but no start this time sprayed some starting fluid through the intake boot and some fire puffed out the boot what’s going on I lined up all the dots and got the harmonic balancer in time as well replaces camshaft position sensor replaced tensioner still a crank but no start it sounds like she wants to go but she isn’t I here the fuel pump engaging and even pushed on the nipple at the end of the fuel rail and it squirted fuel please help!!!!
Btw I have an m52b28 single vanos and didn’t watch this exact video watched a different one for my engine but they are both the same way to time
@@josephvillarreal1001 did the car run before you did the timing?
M3NACE yes it did then I was driving one day and the car died on me looked further into it it got knocked out of timing because the timing guide rail broke but I also realized I was driving with a blown head gasket so I also redid that as well
M3NACE also I got new ignition coils and spark plugs the spark plugs were pregap but the ignition coils I got were cheap eBay ones could this be a cause of bad ignition coils and if that’s a possibility how would I test not just the ignition coils but the ignition coil harness as well