What a clutch video, i had the middle mouse loose due to one of the parts that hold it being broken, i hot glued it neatly and clean, now it’s no longer loose, preciate the video boss.
If your looking at this video because your left mouse button double clicks and your not a solder master, I would try to lift a bit the metal plate near the trigger and also put electronic cleaner. The thing that is causing the problem to happen is a buildup of static in the trigger. Try to clean it as much as possible to have less static build up in the future and lifting a bit the metal plate should help with the double click.
This could solve the issue of a while, but in the long run the button needs to be replaced. As for another reason the button not to work goos, is that a part of the metal plate in the button acts as a spring and after heavy use some microfracures are formed which weakens the spring. In this case, replacing the button is the only option.
Could you make the teardown video of the new Deathadder v2 or basilisk V2 .... The ones with the optical button.... Wanna know how durable and replaceable they are
do you by chance know where tf to get a DPI switch for the basilisk ultimate with hypershift? had to disable both since one was freaking out. causing my battery to die pretty quick. (4 years old, but 120 bucks when new. still 100).
I'm heating the mouse pads, as they got a little bent while removing them. The heat is helping to return the flat shape back again. Still, the heat should be no more than 80 C, otherwise, they can melt and deform permanently.
I also have problem with my left mouse button / switch on the Razer Basilisk V2. How do you refix the glide pads properly? Also where can I find the proper replacements switches? Thx :)
Are there any upgraded switches I fould put on the left and right mouse buttons? Mine lasted under a year and I would like my new ones to last for much longer. Its the right click that went bad (i think). In video games it just stops clicking randomly. I just uninstalled all of the drivers and such but I have not tested it yet. Is there anything else to try to make sure it isnt software related?
I guess the buttons of this mouse model were defective or something in general. They should last much longer than they actually do. A good replacement is OMRON D2FC-F-7N 20M which has a lifespan of 20 million cycles. The original switch lifespan is about 5 million cycles.
my Basilisk V1, has switch part code = D2FC-K (50M)-RZ , take care, in this video is D2FC-F-7N. I put this one, and the difference is the sound, is louder then de original :(
can you help me, accidentally soldered the little dot near the soldering part to remove the clicker, was trying to replace my right click that makes the clicker work, trying to find a solution to fix it but no one can answer it
I also needed to repair my own Basilisk. It is a nice mice, but the Chinese "Omron" switches are from poor quality. After ordering japanese made Omron switches, it works like charm.
My model started to having problems with RMB few days ago. It is not noticeable in windows but during gaming when I hold RMB and LMB at the same time RMB often is not "holding" the click. So for example I am unable to zoom and fire. Thus precision fire is very problematic. I bought it about 6 mo ago. What can be wrong?
@@voidsabre_ Its really F up. I paid $50 for this thing. Its my most expensive mouse. I have expected top quality and superior durability. Razer claims that their switches have up to 50 million clicks!! I am disappointed. Will never buy Razer again. :(((( At any rate. I am returning back to Logitech. I ordered cheaper Logitech G 102. None Logitech mouse ever failed me after only 6 months.
If you rule out any software issues, because a software can cause the exact same issue, the buttons need a replacement. I'm fixing the same issue with this one.
@@glab1334 Thank you very much. But I am already using Logitech mice. :-) But the bitter feeling will remain for a long time. Basilisk was my first Razer product. 50 dollars for a mice is a lot so I expected really top notch quality. Sadly I have got disappointment.
I have one that is not working at all. This will help with the disassembly but I doubt the problem will be obvious judging from seeing the parts in this video. I could, of course, just be the cord but I have tried moving it around while plugged in without any success. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
If there is no dirt on the optic, I will go with changing the cord but still, it will be a tricky one to fit in, if you do not have exactly the same cable...
My right click on my Razer Basilisk sometimes clicks twice when I press it only once, the mouse is about 2 years old and i've kept it clean, never opened but rubbed it down every now and again and tried to remove all the gunk with a toothpick and a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Is this something that I can fix without replacing the button ? I don't currently own a soldering iron, and if I need to go get one just to fix my mouse, I would much rather look for a new mouse. Thanks !
That is a common issue when the button starts to whear out. You could try to open the button itself and clean the contacts, but this is very delicate operation that require steady hands and really fine tweezers. There are some small clips on the sides which can be pulled gently to open the button cover. Inside the button are basically two parts, a little plastic pin, the one that shows from the top of the button, and a metal spring. Both of them you can lose very easily. You need to clean the contacts on the metal spring and the metal pin below the spring with some alcohol (isopropyl) or some contact cleaner and hope of the best. This whole operation is very risky, the chance of success is low and you can make it worse very easily.
@@glab1334 i finally got some better tools ( ifixit toolkit) and opened that sucker up and fixed my right mouse button and learned how mouse buttons work in general.. all through my endeavour i was watching your video on the teardown. i noticed that the metal blade was bent downwards kinda and straightened it out and that fixed my faulty right click issue. thx once again for the video.
I own one for about 7 months and I have problems with clicking and dragging on my left clicker. I suspect that it has turned faulty. Can you advise which particular part of the mouse that I can buy and replace in order to get it working properly again?
The click and drag issues usually are signs of worn button in the mouse. It's possible the issue to be software related, so to be sure, you can test the mouse on a different computer to rule this out. The original buttons for this mouse are OMRON D2FC-F-7N, you can get them from eBay. You can use any regular mouse micro-switch, but those are more durable with longer life. However, as you can see from the video, in order to replace the button, it is required to have some soldering skills and a suitable soldering iron.
@@glab1334 Sorry for the late reply. RUclips didn't notify me of any updates for this comment for some reason. I did a little research and I'm keen on getting the kailh buttons since my left clicker button has really been worn out, the clicks arent registering smoothly... Appreciate the reply. Love these disassembly videos! Please keep making them if you get the chance to repair different types of mice!
@@glab1334 Hey man, will any soldering iron do the job? Like one for 35 euro or so, buying an iron and the switches is cheaper for me than buying a good mouse again.
@@TheTribes44 any iron will do if the tip size is more or less like a dull pencil. Some kind of temperature regulation is also a good to have, otherwise you could burn out the PCB and to crew the copper traces. No more than 60W. I think you could find such soldering irons in aliexpress for less than $5. Also, you will need flux, otherwise the soldering will be a mess. If you are on a budget, you can use citric acid or aspirin for flux (grinding and mix with water to make some kind of a paste), but the smell of those will make your brain scream like never before :)
@@glab1334 Nice one I appreciate it, pretty much all of the irons on Amazon are 60w so should be fine, just gotta get the flux and sensors and I should be good to go tbh, this doesn't seem like too much of a tough job after watching your video
I have a similar video for fixing a scroll wheel: ruclips.net/video/yhvHt-kCzuc/видео.html . The general idea is to clean the sensor with isopropyl alcohol or any spray contact cleaner (suitable for electronics) like DeoxIT
A soldering iron is a hand tool used to heat solder, usually from an electrical supply at high temperatures above the melting point of the metal alloy. This allows for the solder to flow between the workpieces needing to be joined. And the metal he used is generic 2mm 60/40 Flux 2.0% Solder wire. Hope this answered your question, sorry about the compicated english.
The "top" is for the battery compartment, which is held by magnets. If you wish to take out any other part, you need to disassemble the whole mouse. There are 4 hidden screws under the bottom pads.
Screwdriver - Klearlook/EZARC Precision Screwdriver Set, 57 in 1 Soldering Iron - TS100 Solder Sucker - Engineer SS-02 Tweezers - PIXNOR Precision Tweezer Set 7Pcs ESD All of those you can find on eBay or Amazon
What a clutch video, i had the middle mouse loose due to one of the parts that hold it being broken, i hot glued it neatly and clean, now it’s no longer loose, preciate the video boss.
Welcome back to Hardware Unboxed!
THANK you! This fixed my problem as well. Jammed a bit of duct tape in behind the square box and glued it in there. Works perfectly now.
Wellcome to Harbour Unboxed!
Yup the music is hardware unboxed intro!
This is freaking brilliant, it works!
I used this to fix my jammed scroll wheel thanks so much!!!
uf those bending fingernails, almost needs a trigger warning :D
But anyways, really good video. Appreciate your work! Good Content!
If your looking at this video because your left mouse button double clicks and your not a solder master, I would try to lift a bit the metal plate near the trigger and also put electronic cleaner. The thing that is causing the problem to happen is a buildup of static in the trigger. Try to clean it as much as possible to have less static build up in the future and lifting a bit the metal plate should help with the double click.
This could solve the issue of a while, but in the long run the button needs to be replaced. As for another reason the button not to work goos, is that a part of the metal plate in the button acts as a spring and after heavy use some microfracures are formed which weakens the spring. In this case, replacing the button is the only option.
@@glab1334 Didn't know of that issue, good to know
Thanks, i was wondering where that 4th screw was
Same here!
I have same mouse but it looks different inside. Anyway your video did help me to start :)
Could you make the teardown video of the new Deathadder v2 or basilisk V2 .... The ones with the optical button.... Wanna know how durable and replaceable they are
Would love to do it, as long as someone brings me a broken one in order to fix it :)
@@glab1334 Will wait eagerly for that teardown :-)
voila un bon plan ! la il y a la Razer DeathAdder Essential 6400 dpi, 5 boutons sur amazon a 29 euros amzn.to/3ouSihY
Thank you!! this really helped me fix my side button
Thank you man, it's work for me
do you by chance know where tf to get a DPI switch for the basilisk ultimate with hypershift? had to disable both since one was freaking out. causing my battery to die pretty quick. (4 years old, but 120 bucks when new. still 100).
What are you doing exactly at 18:30 ? Heating the plastic ?
its better if the gliders are heated up before applying them. but i dont do it.
I'm heating the mouse pads, as they got a little bent while removing them. The heat is helping to return the flat shape back again. Still, the heat should be no more than 80 C, otherwise, they can melt and deform permanently.
I also have problem with my left mouse button / switch on the Razer Basilisk V2. How do you refix the glide pads properly? Also where can I find the proper replacements switches? Thx :)
Any recommendations for a middle mouse click microswitch replacement?
If I'm not mistaken, they are all the same.
Както вычкочила пружинка регулировки жескости колеса, собрал по этому видосу
Are there any upgraded switches I fould put on the left and right mouse buttons? Mine lasted under a year and I would like my new ones to last for much longer. Its the right click that went bad (i think). In video games it just stops clicking randomly. I just uninstalled all of the drivers and such but I have not tested it yet. Is there anything else to try to make sure it isnt software related?
I guess the buttons of this mouse model were defective or something in general. They should last much longer than they actually do. A good replacement is OMRON D2FC-F-7N 20M which has a lifespan of 20 million cycles. The original switch lifespan is about 5 million cycles.
@@glab1334 Thanks for the help and info, I already subscribed :)
my Basilisk V1, has switch part code = D2FC-K (50M)-RZ , take care, in this video is D2FC-F-7N. I put this one, and the difference is the sound, is louder then de original :(
can you help me, accidentally soldered the little dot near the soldering part to remove the clicker, was trying to replace my right click that makes the clicker work, trying to find a solution to fix it but no one can answer it
I have a Razer basilisk x hyper speed and the dpi adjustment doesn’t work well/ light up if I do this will that fix it
I also needed to repair my own Basilisk. It is a nice mice, but the Chinese "Omron" switches are from poor quality. After ordering japanese made Omron switches, it works like charm.
Hey have u tried any other switches apart from the omron ones? I need to get mine replaced so I was considering other switches like kailh.
I did not use other than omron. Anyway, I'm pretty sure there are better ones, as the omron start to fail so quickly.
My model started to having problems with RMB few days ago. It is not noticeable in windows but during gaming when I hold RMB and LMB at the same time RMB often is not "holding" the click. So for example I am unable to zoom and fire. Thus precision fire is very problematic.
I bought it about 6 mo ago.
What can be wrong?
That's crazy, mine just started having the exact same problem today
@@voidsabre_ Its really F up. I paid $50 for this thing. Its my most expensive mouse. I have expected top quality and superior durability.
Razer claims that their switches have up to 50 million clicks!! I am disappointed. Will never buy Razer again. :((((
At any rate. I am returning back to Logitech. I ordered cheaper Logitech G 102.
None Logitech mouse ever failed me after only 6 months.
If you rule out any software issues, because a software can cause the exact same issue, the buttons need a replacement. I'm fixing the same issue with this one.
@@glab1334 Thank you very much. But I am already using Logitech mice. :-)
But the bitter feeling will remain for a long time. Basilisk was my first Razer product.
50 dollars for a mice is a lot so I expected really top notch quality. Sadly I have got disappointment.
Yea, I bought mine a year ago and am having the same problems :(
my mouse button doesnt hold itself up anymore so clicking isnt even an option its not stuck its just not holding itself up
I have one that is not working at all. This will help with the disassembly but I doubt the problem will be obvious judging from seeing the parts in this video. I could, of course, just be the cord but I have tried moving it around while plugged in without any success. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
If there is no dirt on the optic, I will go with changing the cord but still, it will be a tricky one to fit in, if you do not have exactly the same cable...
My right click on my Razer Basilisk sometimes clicks twice when I press it only once, the mouse is about 2 years old and i've kept it clean, never opened but rubbed it down every now and again and tried to remove all the gunk with a toothpick and a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Is this something that I can fix without replacing the button ? I don't currently own a soldering iron, and if I need to go get one just to fix my mouse, I would much rather look for a new mouse.
Thanks !
That is a common issue when the button starts to whear out. You could try to open the button itself and clean the contacts, but this is very delicate operation that require steady hands and really fine tweezers.
There are some small clips on the sides which can be pulled gently to open the button cover. Inside the button are basically two parts, a little plastic pin, the one that shows from the top of the button, and a metal spring. Both of them you can lose very easily. You need to clean the contacts on the metal spring and the metal pin below the spring with some alcohol (isopropyl) or some contact cleaner and hope of the best.
This whole operation is very risky, the chance of success is low and you can make it worse very easily.
@@glab1334Thank you for taking the time to explain this to me.
@@glab1334 i finally got some better tools ( ifixit toolkit) and opened that sucker up and fixed my right mouse button and learned how mouse buttons work in general.. all through my endeavour i was watching your video on the teardown.
i noticed that the metal blade was bent downwards kinda and straightened it out and that fixed my faulty right click issue.
thx once again for the video.
Btw. Are the side buttons the same type of omrons as the main left and right clickers? Like a one type fits all situation?
No, they are not the same, as their legs are for right angle mounting. I think it's something like OMRON D2F-A but not 100% sure.
My brother gave me a mouse, but the left-click button is popped out. How do I fix it?
wow, what brand clean flux
Soldering Paste
Kingbo
Gosh I wish this would work with me, but I'm so particular that I'll "feel" like it's still not right no matter how well I can reassemble it.
Screw placement is identical on the razer basilisk essential
I own one for about 7 months and I have problems with clicking and dragging on my left clicker. I suspect that it has turned faulty. Can you advise which particular part of the mouse that I can buy and replace in order to get it working properly again?
The click and drag issues usually are signs of worn button in the mouse. It's possible the issue to be software related, so to be sure, you can test the mouse on a different computer to rule this out. The original buttons for this mouse are OMRON D2FC-F-7N, you can get them from eBay. You can use any regular mouse micro-switch, but those are more durable with longer life. However, as you can see from the video, in order to replace the button, it is required to have some soldering skills and a suitable soldering iron.
@@glab1334 Sorry for the late reply. RUclips didn't notify me of any updates for this comment for some reason. I did a little research and I'm keen on getting the kailh buttons since my left clicker button has really been worn out, the clicks arent registering smoothly... Appreciate the reply. Love these disassembly videos! Please keep making them if you get the chance to repair different types of mice!
@@glab1334 Hey man, will any soldering iron do the job? Like one for 35 euro or so, buying an iron and the switches is cheaper for me than buying a good mouse again.
@@TheTribes44 any iron will do if the tip size is more or less like a dull pencil. Some kind of temperature regulation is also a good to have, otherwise you could burn out the PCB and to crew the copper traces. No more than 60W. I think you could find such soldering irons in aliexpress for less than $5. Also, you will need flux, otherwise the soldering will be a mess. If you are on a budget, you can use citric acid or aspirin for flux (grinding and mix with water to make some kind of a paste), but the smell of those will make your brain scream like never before :)
@@glab1334 Nice one I appreciate it, pretty much all of the irons on Amazon are 60w so should be fine, just gotta get the flux and sensors and I should be good to go tbh, this doesn't seem like too much of a tough job after watching your video
my mouse wheel is broken how to fix that by the way my mouse wheel is at a slant
Never mind i fixed it with legos and scotch tape
Could you do a scroll wheel repair guide. The scroll wheel on my basilisk has stopped working
I have a similar video for fixing a scroll wheel: ruclips.net/video/yhvHt-kCzuc/видео.html . The general idea is to clean the sensor with isopropyl alcohol or any spray contact cleaner (suitable for electronics) like DeoxIT
10:37 how is it called that item he use to melt this metal?
It's called "soldering iron". This exact model is TS-100, you can google for more info.
A soldering iron is a hand tool used to heat solder, usually from an electrical supply at high temperatures above the melting point of the metal alloy. This allows for the solder to flow between the workpieces needing to be joined. And the metal he used is generic 2mm 60/40 Flux 2.0% Solder wire. Hope this answered your question, sorry about the compicated english.
Were you heating up the plastic parts on the bottom that you took off earlier to put them back on?
The pads were bend while peeled them off, so I apply little heat to them to soften the plastic and return the flat shape
nice one!
Can i take the top off my basilisk x hyperspeed? or is there some other way
The "top" is for the battery compartment, which is held by magnets. If you wish to take out any other part, you need to disassemble the whole mouse. There are 4 hidden screws under the bottom pads.
@@glab1334 ok, also what i meant by the top was what you did in the video, disassembling it but thanks anyway
What are the name of your tools ? I'd like to buy them
Screwdriver - Klearlook/EZARC Precision Screwdriver Set, 57 in 1
Soldering Iron - TS100
Solder Sucker - Engineer SS-02
Tweezers - PIXNOR Precision Tweezer Set 7Pcs ESD
All of those you can find on eBay or Amazon
Thanks a lot !
Thanks a lot for a video!
Could somebody tell me please how to find new middle micro switch?
How about this one - EVQP0E07K? www.tme.eu/en/details/evqp0e07k/microswitches-tact/panasonic/
@@glab1334 thank you very match!
Does it original or analog?
@@RainbowForDC It's analog, as Razer usually uses Omron switches, but this Panasonic one is a good substitute.
@@glab1334 could you help me please, is Omron B3M-6009 original in this basilisk V1?
@@RainbowForDC Sorry, can't tell for sure.
Can you give me the serial number of the micro switch? Thanks
The full serial number is "1565C21-D2FC-F-7N" or only "D2FC-F-7N" by OMRON
can you help me about a double clicking problem on my razer basilisk i had it about a year now
i have the same problem and i genuinely just had to learn to ignore it
Only replacing (soldering) of new Omron switches can help.
Muchas Gracia...
Yeah, nice one!!!
Thank u for the tutorial, where can i buy this part of the mouse?
For any electrical parts, my favorite ones are TME and Mouser, otherwise eBay :)
welp, lmb still double-click... rmb feels less pushy
same
Yep junk mouse my left button is defective just after 2 years, guess I will have to try to locate a button
2 years is good for a mouse
My right mouse button went bad (I think) after just one year :(
Anyone else having struggle with taking off the scroll wheel?
did u ever get it off
The dumb scroll wheel wont do anything when i pressed i hate razer products
anything for scroll wheel? mine not working :(
theres no fucking way he rips out the middle mouse scroll wheel
AHAH my shit used to clck a bit now i fucked it up imma just buy one honestly
Worst mouse I ever bought.
Maybe not the worst, but definitely not the best one :)