First thanks a lot i did the same thing alumicut, but i was doing until no line and no alumicut, to re add new. Anyway ll this to tell this shit works. Use an siminiz polish tool with a 6 hook disk to use my papers saddly can show a picture
I polish stainless steel for a living and I’ve never seen someone use sanding pads with a grinder, but wow did it come up well ! I use wax on a sisal mop on a 6” grinder (car buff/polisher) comes up well
I'm a do-it-yourselfer and I just love working on Me project like this makes me feel good to look at it at the end of the day and feel that I accomplished something thank you for what you have shared
@@SkillsandTrade Question for a beginner, but what is the interface pad? And is that a sanding attachment on a power drill? Or does it need to be a specific type of sander?
Such a amazing finish on a job well done and explained and demonstrated in a manner that everyone can understand, follow and replicate at home. Thank you.
Had to do this to an exhaust tip that I bought from Summit Racing. Its a Stainless works ST2815 thru body tip that looked brilliantly polished in the ad pictures but came in the mail looking like someone just finished up welding it in their garage. Such a nasty build quality but no refund so I kept it and polished it using your procedure. Now it looks amazing on the side of my boat. Thanks for such and educational and informative video.
I used to fabricate stone counter tops and we used up to ten diamond grit pads to achieve a good shine on the raw stone. I will second the tip to never skip a grit, and make sure both the stainless surface and your pads remain clean as possible to avoid making more work for yourself.
Great vid! I didn't know there were sandpapers in that fine of a grit. To see the reflected image at the end, and remember what the metal sheet looked like at the start, just amazing! And your narration was articulate, well-paced, and friendly. Thanks for posting and sharing!
Hello, thanks for the video! Very interesting. Just a little tip, if you do this kind of job frequently, you might want to look into getting a random orbital sander (like from Festool)... they make the job a lot faster and also much more uniform. The secret to a good mirror polish is randomness not going slowly :) You want the fine scratches in the most random pattern possible which will greatly improve the completed finish. Just my .02 and Happy New Year!
I used up to 3000 grit wet and dry on my stuffed bowie knife handle. It's now almost a mirror finished look. Brass handle on ALCE Bowie knife. I was given the knife over 15 years ago approximately! I had to reshape the blade as it had a chip . A brass handle that has been plated in a zinc/ nickel plating. Handle was completely oxidized green as I found out it had copper plated handle too. Awesome how just sandpaper can bring up a beautiful finish! Nice vid.
Years ago .....friend made me a Tomahawk. { Leaf-spring out of Blazer } . Another friend saw it and offered to "polish it " . Everyone thinks it was chromed. lol Still looks real sharp. He told me " it is a process" . These GUYS knew their metal. Both welder/fitters. First one also a Blacksmith . CHEERS
Hi this is Brian I hope you’re well. I see just how good of a job you are doing. I worked for a group in the navy I have not seen things like that for years. Thank you they are real and you are not tripping
You should use a piece of 3/4" MDF with a soft rubber anti slip pad (like drawer liner for toolboxes) to hold the sheet stainless in place, that way you won't have to polish around the vise clamps.
More than impressive! How do/did you deal with the unpolished areas under the clamps? Clamp elsewhere and then polish them as per the rest of the sheet and blend in? Any ideas on how to secure the sheet for polishing without clamping on the work surface?
What I've been doing in my latest videos is using Gorilla Double sided tape underneath the sheet to hold it in place and it's worked much better than a clamp
Beautiful finish here. I haven't done this in such a large scale but I do it pretty regularly with knives I am refurbishing. I actually do almost the exact same process until the buffing which is a bit different. I also finish with a 5000 trizact which to me is such a nice piece to have.
I just sanded these metal plates on the back of my shoe. Went up to 3000 grit. Was still hazy until I hit it with the Flitz. Good god the metal polish turns it into a mirror. It's amazing.
Thank you so much for this full length how to. Amazing results and I can completely envision what I'll be getting into. Any tips on refinishing a brushed look? I'm trying to restore a BBQ with heavy rust spots with pitting and large chipping in a few areas. Even the intact areas have scratches all over.
Can you use an orbital sander to do this or do you need a drill? - If I need to use a drill... what speed should my drill run at, and do I need to purchase the interface pad and the hookit pad?
I just laughed out loud. Omg you would be just a glare going down the road, a bird killer, and probably freak out every person pulling up behind you at a light 🤣🤣🤣 I will gladly donate time to help
What if it goes through a passivate process after gords? Then should it be safe or will passivate mess with the mirror finish??? Or is there just a different polish to use then its safe to Tig On???
Quick follow up! I did do a mirror finish with GORD'S ALUMINUM POLISH then I did a Passivation to an ASTM certification it pulled all impurities from the 304L stainless I used and the stainless is TIG WELDABLE NOW! I hope this helps some people!
I hope these guys pay you something, You sure sold me, Thank you, Fantastic job, Just bought a steel finder for a motorcycle, I hope it looks as great as this came out.
Excellent job 👍 I’ve done this with all sorts of metals including an AR-15 and a few pistols A bit of wax polish (auto polish) on highly polished steel/iron/alloy really stops any oxidising even after 5+ years.
It should be mentioned that the link to the 220 sand paper is a 'sticky back' and not a hook/loop variety like all the rest. Found that out the hard way it does not work well with the hook and loop interface just fyi! Also I'm not sure if its the alumicut itself or not, but when i use it, i get alot of black smudgey marks that are like tar or something and hard to get off the metal, when the spinning sand paper hits there is starts to slow down and doesnt seem to polish over that are very well, sometimes my sand paper is also suctioning to the metal , how did you avoid all this? if i use too much alumicut it just splatters off the metal...
Couple of questions. Did the video show ALL the sanding that was done or were there more passes done off camera? It seems too easy! Second, how long will the plate remain shiny like that? Does it have to be protected in some way?
Do you have a preference between WD-40 (or similar) and a product like Alumicut? I ask because I've seen you use WD-40 for this task as well if I'm not mistaken. Seems like they'd be comparable minus the eco-friendly aspect.
interested as to why you always sand in the same direction. It's much easier to do a horizontal sand then on the next grit go diagonally.. that will remove the previous abrasive marks much better than running with the previous grit. Just a tip.
Using a linear technique like hand sanding, I'd agree with you, but he's using a rotary motion, so direction doesnt make any difference - a spiral vertically is almost indistinguishable from a spiral horizontally.
Question for a beginner, but what is the interface pad? And is that a sanding attachment on a power drill? Or does it need to be a specific type of sander?
Thank you for the clear and easy steps to follow. Great video, product manufacturers could learn from this video on how to do instructional videos. I thought the process was much more involved than this, great to know I can actually do this and not pay someone.
Nice results ! I would have bet against you using a drill to achieve that finish. Just curious why you used a drill. It seems like an orbital sander or a automotive buffer would get quicker results. Very impressed none the less!
The Cyber Truck probably has some sort of metallic paint and not bare metal. Stainless steel is a very soft steel. Its likely a carbon steel with paint and clear coat over it.
@@SourDonut99 there's several versions of stainless, cybertruck is hardened 300 (30X; X being unknown alloy) series type stainless. No paint and very hard. It's same steel used on spacex rockets.
I'm completely confused by the order you're going in. You use a 2,000-grit abrasive disk . . . and *then* you use a "super-fine" steel wool?! I presume that "super-fine" equals 4/0 ("four-ought"), which is the finest grade usually available. But 4/0 is usually considered to be as abrasive as 400 to 800-grit sandpaper, depending upon who you believe. In my experience, 4/0 is more abrasive than 2,000-grit silicon carbide paper. So it seems to me like going *backwards* to do it in the order you've shown. What am I missing here?
Great video, I have a stainless mirror that my wife decided to clean with a green scouring pad, & the surface is now scratched to hell - what grit / compound would you use & finish with, to remedy this? The scratches aren't that deep, but very noticible
Great job for using a drill it came out really awesome. If I own a business doing metal restoration for Copper, Brass, Stainless and Aluminum he pretty much covered. it
Fantastic video. I was looking for mirror polished stainless steel sheets but they are 4 times the cost of mat. Will definitely be polishing it myself and save a fortune 👍👍👍 thanks
You're welcome Scotty, I'm happy to help, and I'm glad my video helped you. I have Amazon links in my description showing the supplies I used, as well as where I purchased the stainless steel, best of luck on your projects.
yes it looks nice and i had done the same level of polishing on a smaller knife, but i had the same issue like your machete has, the blade is not flat so it counteracts the mirror effect :) (optical distorsion the further the mirrored object is). I would look much better if most of the blade had a plane(flat) surface like your mirror in this video has. This could be achieved by either 3 methods: 1.face milling the biggest 2 sides flat , then sand+polish 2. build the bladeshape yourself from raw material (cut+grind, harden, make a hande, then sand + polish) 3. find and buy a knife with real flat side ,then sand+polish it. :)
Price depends on the thickness of the stainless sheet you use. 1 or 2mm stainless will be cheaper and lighter- but very floppy unless you have a suitable backing surface to support the entire sheet. (glue it to a sheet of plywood) 5mm stainless is quite expensive and very heavy- but won't flop around and can support itself. Also it'll be more dent resistant, and you'll have a few more fixing options such as using countersunk screws. If its going hang on a wall, or being a 'light duty' table [coffee table/makeup table/display unit], then 1mm will be sufficient as long as you can hide the backing plate, otherwise 3mm plate will be stiff enough for smaller projects. If its something heavy duty [dinner table/countertop], or needs the appearence of being 'thin', then the 5mm plate would suit you better. Its fairly stiff; but horizontal spans over 1m might start to sag under load. Aluminium could be an alternative, being a softer and lighter metal its easier to work and install- but it'll be more scratch and dent prone.
If it were going to be interior in a place with low moisture, use MDF. Perfectly flat surface to bond to. If not, you'd want to use a high quality plywood, not the construction grade.
Hello, i want to learn about lapping stainless to make a reflector. I need to get the way to lapping curved stainless steel sheet. Can i know why did you wipe your sheet at final step and what is that?
@Dom Reale it removes the iron contamination (and others) such that the stainless steel can produce an oxide layer dominated by the chromium present in the material. Stainless steel can and does still rust but passivating it first reduces this considerably. Passivation of stainless steel is not (strictly speaking) the same as anodising aluminium as anodising accelerates oxidation while SS passivation is more of an etch. If passivation was just the same as anodising then it would oxidise all metals present in the stainless steel surface (including the iron).
Passivating SS uses dilute nitric acid to create chromium oxide. It doesn't remove any contamination, just caps the surface with the oxide. Not sure that it wouldn't cloud the surface, but you are correct that there will be rust if left at this stage without some sort of protection.
Wow good polish job that was amazing. Question is can I use turtle wax med or light cut or meguires. I'm broke and don't have any alumicut and only need to polish my scratched up XIKAR cigar cutter. There anything cheap and easy for small jobs I can try?
It's beautiful and everything but I'm curious how many different roughness of sanding paper do you really need? Can't you just go finer straight away? Captain explain pls
You could probably start with a 400 grit or 600 grit but you would need to spend more time with it. You can't skip grits unfortunately because if you do you'll see the sanding marks when you polish the stainless steel
This is something all DeLorean owners are keenly aware of. It's worse with the brushed finish because the finish traps bits of mild steel wool and the bits rust. You can only fix this by getting out all the bits, which takes many rounds of difficult cleaning.
Thank you so much for the beautiful video 🙂 but quick question please, how long it can stay mirror finish, before we need to re-polish it again please?!
Hello, I have 55” stainless steel tank head that I want to get a mirror finish on. Your video was done on a flat surface do u have any suggestions for doing a curved surface? I’ve watched vie Videos where they just cutting pads with compound and got mirrored finish without any sanding. Oh course they didn’t explain the cutting pads or what compound they used, The last one I did I tried alumacut that didn’t come out so good. Please give me any advice. Thank you
This is amazing ! Thanks so much for a great instructional. i've started this on a 1/4" stainless kitchen counter.... i'm between grits 400 and 800 and it's looking good but on one section i have a what looks like a kind of tarnishing, a darker brownish stain . What could have caused this ? i was using a buffing grinder @3000rpms . Did the heat and alumicut/sanding debris stain it ? Did i miss completing the sanding between the 2 grits. Thanks.
You should try putting on a fresh new piece of sand paper and see if that gets rid of the stain, Stainless does get hot really fast as well so that might be part of it
How do you know when to change the grit of your sanding discs? Or is it trial and error to find out when you have the bigger scratches out? How far back do you back step in your grits? I used 320, then 400, 800, 1500, 3000 and up to 5000 now. Is each step up in fineness of grit used to a certain percentage more than the previous grit? I'm seeing lots of scratches still, even though I get a fair reflection. Thanks, Randy
I'm working on a life-support system that is handheld for rope attachment for everything that is done at height now my product is made out of stainless steel and I'm having a hell of a time trying to get it to do what you did
I have a old stainless steel dining room table that I want to clean up. Is it safe for me to to do this process, and then eat/use the table on a regular basis afterwards?
![How To Sand and Polish Aluminum To Mirror Finish [Version 2.0]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bgtW-kbmQwc/mqdefault.jpg)
That was really relaxing to watch - and the results! Holy cow, that looks amazing!
First thanks a lot i did the same thing alumicut, but i was doing until no line and no alumicut, to re add new. Anyway ll this to tell this shit works. Use an siminiz polish tool with a 6 hook disk to use my papers saddly can show a picture
I polish stainless steel for a living and I’ve never seen someone use sanding pads with a grinder, but wow did it come up well ! I use wax on a sisal mop on a 6” grinder (car buff/polisher) comes up well
I'm a do-it-yourselfer and I just love working on Me project like this makes me feel good to look at it at the end of the day and feel that I accomplished something thank you for what you have shared
No problem, thank you for watching.
@@SkillsandTrade Question for a beginner, but what is the interface pad? And is that a sanding attachment on a power drill? Or does it need to be a specific type of sander?
Good job man! Heat is the bane of most polishes. Good job recognizing and showing the problem.
FWIW, Alumicut is primarily kerosene with a bit of tung/linseed oil added. Much cheaper to make your own.
Got the recipe?
Such a amazing finish on a job well done and explained and demonstrated in a manner that everyone can understand, follow and replicate at home. Thank you.
Had to do this to an exhaust tip that I bought from Summit Racing. Its a Stainless works ST2815 thru body tip that looked brilliantly polished in the ad pictures but came in the mail looking like someone just finished up welding it in their garage. Such a nasty build quality but no refund so I kept it and polished it using your procedure. Now it looks amazing on the side of my boat. Thanks for such and educational and informative video.
Dude, very good tutorial. I've worked with a lot of stainless, but never had to polish it. Now I want to try it.
I used to fabricate stone counter tops and we used up to ten diamond grit pads to achieve a good shine on the raw stone. I will second the tip to never skip a grit, and make sure both the stainless surface and your pads remain clean as possible to avoid making more work for yourself.
I find an air compressor is very helpful. Blowing out the pad is essential. And there’s so many different applications for polishing/sanding.
Totally awesome, my husband is a welder fabricator so I can comprehend this. You are an excellent narrator as well.
Thank you very much Cheryl, I really appreciate it.
SUPER HIGH QUALITY RESULT!! I personally appreciate it when people strive for excellence in their work, and you have certainly done that!
Thank you very much.
Great camera angle. You could actually see the reflection improve at each stage.
An honest description; it is exciting to watch and learn from your video!
Great vid! I didn't know there were sandpapers in that fine of a grit. To see the reflected image at the end, and remember what the metal sheet looked like at the start, just amazing! And your narration was articulate, well-paced, and friendly. Thanks for posting and sharing!
Thank you David
Hello, thanks for the video! Very interesting. Just a little tip, if you do this kind of job frequently, you might want to look into getting a random orbital sander (like from Festool)... they make the job a lot faster and also much more uniform. The secret to a good mirror polish is randomness not going slowly :) You want the fine scratches in the most random pattern possible which will greatly improve the completed finish. Just my .02 and Happy New Year!
Thanks man! I've been looking for a video like this for about three(3) years now!
I used up to 3000 grit wet and dry on my stuffed bowie knife handle. It's now almost a mirror finished look. Brass handle on ALCE Bowie knife. I was given the knife over 15 years ago approximately! I had to reshape the blade as it had a chip . A brass handle that has been plated in a zinc/ nickel plating. Handle was completely oxidized green as I found out it had copper plated handle too. Awesome how just sandpaper can bring up a beautiful finish! Nice vid.
Years ago .....friend made me a Tomahawk. { Leaf-spring out of Blazer } . Another friend saw it and offered to "polish it " . Everyone thinks it was chromed. lol Still looks real sharp. He told me " it is a process" . These GUYS knew their metal. Both welder/fitters. First one also a Blacksmith . CHEERS
I just wanted to get some stains out and I got a steel to mirror tutorial. Good job.
Hi this is Brian I hope you’re well. I see just how good of a job you are doing. I worked for a group in the navy I have not seen things like that for years. Thank you they are real and you are not tripping
You should use a piece of 3/4" MDF with a soft rubber anti slip pad (like drawer liner for toolboxes) to hold the sheet stainless in place, that way you won't have to polish around the vise clamps.
OR SUCTION CUPS
OR A MAGNET
______x except majority of stainless steel is non magnetic 🧲
@@sverduijn1 Most stainless is magnetic to a degree ,but its very week, and not enough to hold down sheet for polishing.
Okay, that was something to reflect on!
😂
that was.......punny.
Cipriano Ortiz and you
Scott Jostad and you
@Ken Scurrah (Strange thing to say.. YIKE!) I take it you hate your father?
More than impressive! How do/did you deal with the unpolished areas under the clamps? Clamp elsewhere and then polish them as per the rest of the sheet and blend in? Any ideas on how to secure the sheet for polishing without clamping on the work surface?
What I've been doing in my latest videos is using Gorilla Double sided tape underneath the sheet to hold it in place and it's worked much better than a clamp
@@SkillsandTrade I was wondering if suitably anchored, pro-grade suction clamps on the underside would work.
That would probably work fine
Man I work with a lot of stainless steel and I had absolutely no idea you could polish it up like this
Beautiful finish here. I haven't done this in such a large scale but I do it pretty regularly with knives I am refurbishing. I actually do almost the exact same process until the buffing which is a bit different. I also finish with a 5000 trizact which to me is such a nice piece to have.
I just sanded these metal plates on the back of my shoe. Went up to 3000 grit. Was still hazy until I hit it with the Flitz. Good god the metal polish turns it into a mirror. It's amazing.
Would this method work on a vintage airstream camper trailer?
Saw this on reddit and can't believe you made steel look like glass
Please tell me that you polished the 2 points where the levers are attached. Great job btw !
Dang that end result gives a perfect reflection! 😃👍
I like how you explained all the steps and i want to try this on an old aluminum satellite dish to try and make a parabolic mirror
Thank you so much for this full length how to. Amazing results and I can completely envision what I'll be getting into. Any tips on refinishing a brushed look? I'm trying to restore a BBQ with heavy rust spots with pitting and large chipping in a few areas. Even the intact areas have scratches all over.
Can you use an orbital sander to do this or do you need a drill? - If I need to use a drill... what speed should my drill run at, and do I need to purchase the interface pad and the hookit pad?
Im gonna do this to a delorian
That sounds cool. Good luck.
I just laughed out loud. Omg you would be just a glare going down the road, a bird killer, and probably freak out every person pulling up behind you at a light 🤣🤣🤣 I will gladly donate time to help
Zippy TheChicken That’d be class
I already did that to mine
what about those bumpers? they are not made of stainless steel.
Can you Tig Weld on this finish??? Or does that gords stuff create an impurity on the stainless surface???
I would Tig weld first because the Gords Aluminum Polish will contaminate the metal
What if it goes through a passivate process after gords? Then should it be safe or will passivate mess with the mirror finish??? Or is there just a different polish to use then its safe to Tig On???
Quick follow up! I did do a mirror finish with GORD'S ALUMINUM POLISH then I did a Passivation to an ASTM certification it pulled all impurities from the 304L stainless I used and the stainless is TIG WELDABLE NOW! I hope this helps some people!
Thank you so much for this detailed video!
It’s gonna be great to save so much money polishing my own rig from now on!
I hope these guys pay you something, You sure sold me, Thank you, Fantastic job, Just bought a steel finder for a motorcycle, I hope it looks as great as this came out.
Excellent job 👍
I’ve done this with all sorts of metals including an AR-15 and a few pistols
A bit of wax polish (auto polish) on highly polished steel/iron/alloy really stops any oxidising even after 5+ years.
The_ Joker how do you sand hard to reach areas that aren’t flat? Is there a special product the conforms to odd shapes?
It should be mentioned that the link to the 220 sand paper is a 'sticky back' and not a hook/loop variety like all the rest. Found that out the hard way it does not work well with the hook and loop interface just fyi!
Also I'm not sure if its the alumicut itself or not, but when i use it, i get alot of black smudgey marks that are like tar or something and hard to get off the metal, when the spinning sand paper hits there is starts to slow down and doesnt seem to polish over that are very well, sometimes my sand paper is also suctioning to the metal , how did you avoid all this? if i use too much alumicut it just splatters off the metal...
Couple of questions. Did the video show ALL the sanding that was done or were there more passes done off camera? It seems too easy! Second, how long will the plate remain shiny like that? Does it have to be protected in some way?
The video showed all the sanding. The steel will last for months, even more if you apply wax.
also you can still bring it easily to shine aagain with just one pass of polishing
@@hyperhektor7733 Yes, definitely
Do you have a preference between WD-40 (or similar) and a product like Alumicut? I ask because I've seen you use WD-40 for this task as well if I'm not mistaken. Seems like they'd be comparable minus the eco-friendly aspect.
How it's made: Jail mirrors
Go to the corner right now 👉👉👉lmao
Higor Guedes pretty much lol
Also military mirrors 😂
Underrated comment lol
Accurate
interested as to why you always sand in the same direction. It's much easier to do a horizontal sand then on the next grit go diagonally.. that will remove the previous abrasive marks much better than running with the previous grit. Just a tip.
Using a linear technique like hand sanding, I'd agree with you, but he's using a rotary motion, so direction doesnt make any difference - a spiral vertically is almost indistinguishable from a spiral horizontally.
Direction makes a major difference, it's how light refracts off the surface.
cross hatch
Reflects.
@Dom Reale Very true. Using a random orbital sander also would have helped as the head vibrates in random directions as well as elliptically.
WOWWW, well done mate, looks incredible, you must be very proud watching it hang somewhere, good on ya
WTF !!!! IT'S MAGIC !!!! I LOVE IT
Question for a beginner, but what is the interface pad? And is that a sanding attachment on a power drill? Or does it need to be a specific type of sander?
How long will it last? Will it dull over time?
It will stay pretty shiny, but not perfectly. You should use a metal polish like Blue Magic to keep it shiny.
U never worked in a Kitchen huh? Or in the NAVY? Or Marines? Stainless steel gets maintenance like anything else..
Thank you for the clear and easy steps to follow. Great video, product manufacturers could learn from this video on how to do instructional videos. I thought the process was much more involved than this, great to know I can actually do this and not pay someone.
Nice results ! I would have bet against you using a drill to achieve that finish. Just curious why you used a drill. It seems like an orbital sander or a automotive buffer would get quicker results. Very impressed none the less!
Thank you. I mostly used a drill because, I wanted to save a few dollars and show it could be done.
nonetheless is one word :)
@@ShadowPoet True but "none", "the", and "less" are also words which, together, convey a similar meaning :-)
Thank you for showing me how to get the mirrors back to the way they were at a school I clean. Many thank's
Thanks a great video .I tried the same method and I got a great mirror finish
Thanks, I'm glad it worked out for you.
أريد البديل لل ألوميكت
Thanks!
Thank you very much!!!
I’m doing this to my cyber truck when I get it
I think that’s illegal idk tho lmao it sounds hella illegal to me
The Cyber Truck probably has some sort of metallic paint and not bare metal. Stainless steel is a very soft steel. Its likely a carbon steel with paint and clear coat over it.
@@SourDonut99 there's several versions of stainless, cybertruck is hardened 300 (30X; X being unknown alloy) series type stainless. No paint and very hard. It's same steel used on spacex rockets.
exactly why i searched this, make sure to place ur orders with full self driving before the price increase on Jul 1st!
I searched this thinking on doing it to cybertruck
Tarnish? What factory finish did you start with? So you start polishing by scratching with 220? No old school polishing rouge used?
I'm completely confused by the order you're going in. You use a 2,000-grit abrasive disk . . . and *then* you use a "super-fine" steel wool?! I presume that "super-fine" equals 4/0 ("four-ought"), which is the finest grade usually available. But 4/0 is usually considered to be as abrasive as 400 to 800-grit sandpaper, depending upon who you believe. In my experience, 4/0 is more abrasive than 2,000-grit silicon carbide paper. So it seems to me like going *backwards* to do it in the order you've shown. What am I missing here?
Good point. Steel wool would take the shine right off.
@@robj2704 also using steel wool on stainless steel will contaminate it and it will rust...
@@olivierleger2530no it will not
Needed a way to polish some stainless steel bookmarks I’m making for a gift and this was very helpful thanks!
Will this process polish turds effectively?
Only if you believe in yourself
Ya try it on your head it does work on turds .
No, but you can roll them in glitter.
Put a lot of effort in - it will still be a turd!
Yes, but a word of caution!! You DO NOT wanna use Alumicut on turds!! You wanna use Grey Poopon Musturd instead!!.........
.
.
.
.
.
😁
I want to make some stainless steel furniture with my Everlast welder but didn't know how to polish the final product. With your video now I know!
Will the WD-40 mentioned early in the video still work?
Just dont skip grits and it'll come out amazing
Excellent work. Can you please share some tips for square tubing mirror finish?
Ha,ha,ha....is that a real mirror at the end 😂😂😂
Well, its the stainless steel polished to a mirror finish.
Exactly why not do half of it. LMAO
I do this for my job..deffinitely not a mirror..
Technically it is a real mirror. Thanks captain obvious.
That's exactly what I thought as well! 🤣
Great video, I have a stainless mirror that my wife decided to clean with a green scouring pad, & the surface is now scratched to hell - what grit / compound would you use & finish with, to remedy this? The scratches aren't that deep, but very noticible
Just start going back from the last step until you find the step that takes out the scratches, then go forward from that step
Great job for using a drill it came out really awesome. If I own a business doing metal restoration for Copper, Brass, Stainless and Aluminum he pretty much covered. it
Thank you very much, I'm happy to hear that you liked the video.
Fantastic video. I was looking for mirror polished stainless steel sheets but they are 4 times the cost of mat.
Will definitely be polishing it myself and save a fortune 👍👍👍 thanks
You're welcome Scotty, I'm happy to help, and I'm glad my video helped you.
I have Amazon links in my description showing the supplies I used, as well as where I purchased the stainless steel, best of luck on your projects.
That's obviously an actual mirror at the end dude
What's obvious is that you don't know shit about metal polishing. You likely know plenty about knob polishing but nothing about metal polishing.
Did you really not understand joke?
narkatameister ,no but I do now. Sorry, long week m8
They always pull the switch off camera.
@@yorkazuna5934
You could see your reflection in my knob. 😉
How many passes per sanding pad did you do? The video show one pass per grit, but I would expect it was many more. Thanks
this done with a big knife blade would look surreal
Then you are going to love this: ruclips.net/video/I35UIoO7UOs/видео.html
yes it looks nice and i had done the same level of polishing on a smaller knife, but i had the same issue like your machete has, the blade is not flat so it counteracts the mirror effect :) (optical distorsion the further the mirrored object is).
I would look much better if most of the blade had a plane(flat) surface like your mirror in this video has.
This could be achieved by either 3 methods:
1.face milling the biggest 2 sides flat , then sand+polish
2. build the bladeshape yourself from raw material (cut+grind, harden, make a hande, then sand + polish)
3. find and buy a knife with real flat side ,then sand+polish it.
:)
I'm thinking of high level rays sunlight if this paint coating is going to withstand and definitely not get cleaned again !?
brilliant, how much the whole mirror will costs at the end , I'm serious, as I have something in mind as a project.
Price depends on the thickness of the stainless sheet you use.
1 or 2mm stainless will be cheaper and lighter- but very floppy unless you have a suitable backing surface to support the entire sheet. (glue it to a sheet of plywood)
5mm stainless is quite expensive and very heavy- but won't flop around and can support itself. Also it'll be more dent resistant, and you'll have a few more fixing options such as using countersunk screws.
If its going hang on a wall, or being a 'light duty' table [coffee table/makeup table/display unit], then 1mm will be sufficient as long as you can hide the backing plate, otherwise 3mm plate will be stiff enough for smaller projects.
If its something heavy duty [dinner table/countertop], or needs the appearence of being 'thin', then the 5mm plate would suit you better. Its fairly stiff; but horizontal spans over 1m might start to sag under load.
Aluminium could be an alternative, being a softer and lighter metal its easier to work and install- but it'll be more scratch and dent prone.
If it were going to be interior in a place with low moisture, use MDF. Perfectly flat surface to bond to. If not, you'd want to use a high quality plywood, not the construction grade.
no to mdf , the steel and the mdf expand and contract thru heat and humidity fluctuations at different rates, breaking glue bonds
Uh, that's why I said INTERIOR, with a LOW level of humidity... And there are adhesives with a degree of flexibility that won't break a bond.
ffjsb That's what I thought also, good luck.
It'll help if you put metal on both sides of the substrate
Hello, i want to learn about lapping stainless to make a reflector. I need to get the way to lapping curved stainless steel sheet. Can i know why did you wipe your sheet at final step and what is that?
As a final step you should consider passivating the surface to remove any iron near the surface that will eventually tarnish the stainless steel.
@Dom Reale it removes the iron contamination (and others) such that the stainless steel can produce an oxide layer dominated by the chromium present in the material. Stainless steel can and does still rust but passivating it first reduces this considerably. Passivation of stainless steel is not (strictly speaking) the same as anodising aluminium as anodising accelerates oxidation while SS passivation is more of an etch. If passivation was just the same as anodising then it would oxidise all metals present in the stainless steel surface (including the iron).
Passivating SS uses dilute nitric acid to create chromium oxide. It doesn't remove any contamination, just caps the surface with the oxide. Not sure that it wouldn't cloud the surface, but you are correct that there will be rust if left at this stage without some sort of protection.
Is it posible to make Stainless Steel more wigter?I am making things from wire and it will be very hard to polish it like that. Thank you
Dude that came out freaking awesome ! Thanks bro
You're welcome. Glad you liked my video.
JOGO s
Wow good polish job that was amazing. Question is can I use turtle wax med or light cut or meguires. I'm broke and don't have any alumicut and only need to polish my scratched up XIKAR cigar cutter. There anything cheap and easy for small jobs I can try?
I did make a video about sanding and polishing by hand that might be more helpful for you. Good luck on your project
Now let’s do it to a Cybertruck!
It's beautiful and everything but I'm curious how many different roughness of sanding paper do you really need? Can't you just go finer straight away? Captain explain pls
You could probably start with a 400 grit or 600 grit but you would need to spend more time with it. You can't skip grits unfortunately because if you do you'll see the sanding marks when you polish the stainless steel
Do you know that steel wool into (SS)stainless steel will rust. You should have used SS steel wool.
I do now, thank you. I will make sure in the future to use SS steel wool
This is something all DeLorean owners are keenly aware of. It's worse with the brushed finish because the finish traps bits of mild steel wool and the bits rust. You can only fix this by getting out all the bits, which takes many rounds of difficult cleaning.
wow. as someone who has tried grinding etc on all kinds of metal... does alumacut make the biggest difference.. on any steel?
mygarz polishing pad!
I love this! Learn something new. This is great way to have mirrors my kids can't break
Anytime you wax or polish, it's to be done IN A NICE COOL SHADE! KEY WORD, COOL SHADE NOT IN THE BLISTERING HOT SUN! LMAO! YOU SILLY RABBIT!
Thank you so much for the beautiful video 🙂 but quick question please, how long it can stay mirror finish, before we need to re-polish it again please?!
I just wanna rack up a line of coke from end to end
fuck right
I'm a Pepsi guy myself haha
Irn Bru is wayyy better.
Jesus Christ, Bro. But, the more I think about it......okay, okay you're right.
Shit I thought I'd be the only one thinking that. Than there you were. Tears... and stuffy noses.
Hello, I have 55” stainless steel tank head that I want to get a mirror finish on. Your video was done on a flat surface do u have any suggestions for doing a curved surface?
I’ve watched vie
Videos where they just cutting pads with compound and got mirrored finish without any sanding. Oh course they didn’t explain the cutting pads or what compound they used,
The last one I did I tried alumacut that didn’t come out so good.
Please give me any advice. Thank you
Yeah. Sure...
Nice beveled edges on that actual glass mirror at the end...
imgur.com/a/7gb1nzq
Jelly you dont have the ambition or patience.
boom roasted
That's exactly what I was thinking. It's a damn mirror
yep-i saw that and paused to check it.
Just wondering how would head of an engine being resurfaced to mirror finnish? Will it perform better? Trying to to use the glass + sandpaper method
Can I try this on my stainless steel flask with laser engrave, or will the sandpaper scrape it away?
Great. I've seen beautifully polished SS but didn't know how it was done. the Trizact pads, and the Gords Aluminum Polish were new to me. Thanks
Can u do this to home appliances ?
Yes you can. In the future I will do another video showing how to achieve a mirror finish for stainless steel by hand.
This is amazing ! Thanks so much for a great instructional. i've started this on a 1/4" stainless kitchen counter.... i'm between grits 400 and 800 and it's looking good but on one section i have a what looks like a kind of tarnishing, a darker brownish stain . What could have caused this ? i was using a buffing grinder @3000rpms . Did the heat and alumicut/sanding debris stain it ? Did i miss completing the sanding between the 2 grits. Thanks.
You should try putting on a fresh new piece of sand paper and see if that gets rid of the stain, Stainless does get hot really fast as well so that might be part of it
@@SkillsandTrade wow, that was a rapid response, i'll try another sheet of sandpaper, i'll have to go back down a step i'd imagine ?
@@SkillsandTrade thanks again
Hello. hope you have overcome this problem. if so would you please share your experience and tell me what the problem was. thank you in advance
هل الألوميكت جيد وماهي تركيبته وأين يباع وماهو البديل عنه
Could this be done to the lid doors and cabinet of a stainless steel gas grille?
How do you know when to change the grit of your sanding discs? Or is it trial and error to find out when you have the bigger scratches out? How far back do you back step in your grits? I used 320, then 400, 800, 1500, 3000 and up to 5000 now. Is each step up in fineness of grit used to a certain percentage more than the previous grit? I'm seeing lots of scratches still, even though I get a fair reflection.
Thanks,
Randy
How long should you expect the stainless steel to hold that level of shine for?
I'm working on a life-support system that is handheld for rope attachment for everything that is done at height now my product is made out of stainless steel and I'm having a hell of a time trying to get it to do what you did
Do you need to start with 220? The steel already looked more glossy than what 220 sanding did.
Do you follow all of the steps after you think you've finished, on the two missed spots under the clamped parts?
You can, or you find a way to hold the steel down without using clamps.
If you were going to cut table legs from a sheet of stainless, would you polish the stainless first, or after you've welded them into legs?
I would do it after personally
I have a old stainless steel dining room table that I want to clean up. Is it safe for me to to do this process, and then eat/use the table on a regular basis afterwards?
This is beautiful! is it possible to do this on a brass instrument like a saxphone?
what about passivation? does the sanding interfere with its ability to resist corrosion?