Nice video. I'm looking here in Brazil. I am learning many things with your teachings of the videos here from youtube. I am technician in industrial maintenance in the area of alimentary machines and my dream and to work with carpentry and carpentry and you do this still to realize even more. Please continue teaching us this wonderful art that And carpentry and American joinery. Parabéns. I'm your fan. 👍🏻
Moving the rail for the bit to cut a slightly wider dado was your preferred method. That does by-pass the very accurate micro-adjust capability of returning the router to the start position then using the micro-adjust to bring the cutter to the second line then routing that area. Ensures that the guide rail remains parallel. Moving the guide rail could shift it out of parallel to the original cut even as much as a sixteenth of an inch, or more, and might not be noticed. The micro-adjust ensures a wider, but parallel, cut.
Thanks. Replacing my 19 year old Bosch 1613 EVS with a Festool. Nearly ruined a very large, very expensive bookshelf component because the plunge on the Bosch has worn out. Not its fault, it's been a reliable worker in the shop -- it's just worn out. These kinds of videos have been helpful planning for use.
You can use the woodpecker parallel guides to set your cut line without measuring and squaring manually. Just remove the guide rail once set and your on the money!!
Hi. I purchased the guide assembly, but it doesn’t have the little black stand or the screw piece to maintain a level. Should it have come in the same package??
I have these items. I would like to make fluted trim. What bit type woyld i use? Ok. Got no answers in months so I got it done on my own. The guide stops for sliding/guiding the router on the rail kept getting stuck on the Festool stickers on the rail and messing up my work. I had to remove all stickers from the rails with wil bond..😡
I liked this video...I am learning on every project and its demands. 15 years ago I collected a few Festools and then life being what it is, had to store them until now. so. I am making a couple small drawers for a vanity rebuild and want to install the bottom of the drawer into a dado in the sides...I am stumped on how to get this done. short, narrow pieces of wood...I am betting its easy but ..... I do have the MFT table, guide rails, both router guide assemblies...the 1400 router....I had no idea what I was purchasing, just found them, liked the weight and quality and safety factor....can you direct me to something?
Hi Susan... why don't you send me an email with a little more description (a photo would help) and I will be happy to offer my two-cent's worth! My email address is: sjohnson@downtoearthwoodworking.com
I don't know, but I'm guessing someone out there knows the answer or maybe even makes a universal plate that could be adapted for use. Sorry I can't answer, but thanks for watching!
Hi, a great video, Festool should really be putting you on the pay roll and I mean that in the nicest possible way. Is it possible to make an extended version showing how to make stopped dados using the guide rail stops? In particular I was wondering when using that system and you making a number of stopped dados and you reposition the rain for the next dado how do you place the rail so that the dado starts and stops at the same point as the last one? If that makes any sense. In other words if I place the rail for the second dado a little bit away from me or near to me then it won’t start or stop at exactly the same points. Is a pencil line on the rail the answer or does Festool have a better solution? Cheers
Hi, Thanks! I understand your question and I think there might be a couple of answers. If there is room, you could clamp a cleat onto the workpiece that would line up one end of the guide rail for each successive dado. If there is not room, you could clamp down the work piece and clamp a cleat to the work bench and accomplish the same thing. If that won't work, however, your best bet is to make a small mark on the guide rail itself and then line that mark up with a line drawn across your workpiece. That will make sure all your "start" and "stop" points will be consistent. Thanks for watching!
@@downtoearthwoodworks I would imagine that the "official" Festool way would be to use the holey rail and the 32mm system stops that come with it? They attach underneath the rail giving a solid registration point. Then you could put "guide stops" on the top of the rail at the start-stop points. This would give you consistency across multiple work pieces.
This video was done as a "sidebar" to the Maple Bookshelf series where you can see the set-up used extensively for dados and rabbets. Thanks for watching!
No, it's not a joke. In Europe they are banned. If someone slices off a finger with a regular blade they can often reattach but not with a dado blade. And they force you to remove other safety features to make them work like blade guards. You can Google it.
Yeah, not the joint itself, though. It is the saw blade that is not available. The saw arbor is too short to make one fit anyway, just in case someone would try it.
The best video I’ve found for using these guides. Thanks so much.
Nice video. I'm looking here in Brazil.
I am learning many things with your teachings of the videos here from youtube. I am technician in industrial maintenance in the area of alimentary machines and my dream and to work with carpentry and carpentry and you do this still to realize even more. Please continue teaching us this wonderful art that And carpentry and American joinery. Parabéns. I'm your fan. 👍🏻
Thanks so much!
Moving the rail for the bit to cut a slightly wider dado was your preferred method. That does by-pass the very accurate micro-adjust capability of returning the router to the start position then using the micro-adjust to bring the cutter to the second line then routing that area. Ensures that the guide rail remains parallel. Moving the guide rail could shift it out of parallel to the original cut even as much as a sixteenth of an inch, or more, and might not be noticed. The micro-adjust ensures a wider, but parallel, cut.
In addition to dado cutting, the OF1400 + guide stop + guide rail is also a great setup for making MFT style evenly spaced dogholes in a workbench
Thanks. Replacing my 19 year old Bosch 1613 EVS with a Festool. Nearly ruined a very large, very expensive bookshelf component because the plunge on the Bosch has worn out. Not its fault, it's been a reliable worker in the shop -- it's just worn out. These kinds of videos have been helpful planning for use.
Steve, Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Great video, look forward to the next one. Cheers Leigh
Great Video, I have the same set up. I like using it on my mft3 table works excellent that way as well. Keep up the GREAT videos.
You can use the woodpecker parallel guides to set your cut line without measuring and squaring manually. Just remove the guide rail once set and your on the money!!
Also with using stops on the track great for making hidden dados in cabinets which would be very difficult to do on a table saw
Hi. I purchased the guide assembly, but it doesn’t have the little black stand or the screw piece to maintain a level. Should it have come in the same package??
I have these items.
I would like to make fluted trim.
What bit type woyld i use?
Ok. Got no answers in months so I got it done on my own.
The guide stops for sliding/guiding the router on the rail kept getting stuck on the Festool stickers on the rail and messing up my work. I had to remove all stickers from the rails with wil bond..😡
Does all of the guide rails support the Festool dovetail clamps?
What is your preferred method for making sure your guide rail is square to the workpiece but also cutting exactly where you want it to cut? Thank you.
What do you guys think about dados being outlawed in places in Europe? Seems like quite a drag!
I liked this video...I am learning on every project and its demands. 15 years ago I collected a few Festools and then life being what it is, had to store them until now. so. I am making a couple small drawers for a vanity rebuild and want to install the bottom of the drawer into a dado in the sides...I am stumped on how to get this done. short, narrow pieces of wood...I am betting its easy but ..... I do have the MFT table, guide rails, both router guide assemblies...the 1400 router....I had no idea what I was purchasing, just found them, liked the weight and quality and safety factor....can you direct me to something?
Hi Susan... why don't you send me an email with a little more description (a photo would help) and I will be happy to offer my two-cent's worth! My email address is:
sjohnson@downtoearthwoodworking.com
Great explanation - Thanks
Nice video - especially when speeded up to 1.25x
Holy Crap. What a huge tip. lol
can the guide rail and guide stop be used on different routers. I have a Trend T5. Thanks
I don't know, but I'm guessing someone out there knows the answer or maybe even makes a universal plate that could be adapted for use. Sorry I can't answer, but thanks for watching!
Great video, the audio however is different....
I had a small technical glitch with my audio mixer that i think is corrected now. It's tough sometimes being "one man show." :)
Hi, a great video, Festool should really be putting you on the pay roll and I mean that in the nicest possible way. Is it possible to make an extended version showing how to make stopped dados using the guide rail stops? In particular I was wondering when using that system and you making a number of stopped dados and you reposition the rain for the next dado how do you place the rail so that the dado starts and stops at the same point as the last one? If that makes any sense. In other words if I place the rail for the second dado a little bit away from me or near to me then it won’t start or stop at exactly the same points. Is a pencil line on the rail the answer or does Festool have a better solution? Cheers
Hi, Thanks! I understand your question and I think there might be a couple of answers. If there is room, you could clamp a cleat onto the workpiece that would line up one end of the guide rail for each successive dado. If there is not room, you could clamp down the work piece and clamp a cleat to the work bench and accomplish the same thing. If that won't work, however, your best bet is to make a small mark on the guide rail itself and then line that mark up with a line drawn across your workpiece. That will make sure all your "start" and "stop" points will be consistent. Thanks for watching!
@@downtoearthwoodworks I would imagine that the "official" Festool way would be to use the holey rail and the 32mm system stops that come with it? They attach underneath the rail giving a solid registration point. Then you could put "guide stops" on the top of the rail at the start-stop points. This would give you consistency across multiple work pieces.
It seems to me the router base is not flush. Part is on the rail and part is not. Is it not tilted slightly?
The "foot" or outrigger support on the router base can be adjusted to keep the router level when using the guide rail.
Thanks Love all your videos.
And there was I, thinking I would see it work.
This video was done as a "sidebar" to the Maple Bookshelf series where you can see the set-up used extensively for dados and rabbets. Thanks for watching!
speed up to 1.5x much better
“ Dado sets are not allowed in some European countries” Was that a joke? I’m seriously asking.
No, it's not a joke. In Europe they are banned. If someone slices off a finger with a regular blade they can often reattach but not with a dado blade. And they force you to remove other safety features to make them work like blade guards. You can Google it.
Yeah, not the joint itself, though. It is the saw blade that is not available. The saw arbor is too short to make one fit anyway, just in case someone would try it.
@@MyGarageWorkshop - Ok, wow. Very interesting. Well you learn something every day.
...unfortunately a little out of my budget.. ;-)
What happen with your voice?