73 Honda CB750 Custom Build Part 37 - Front brakes
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- Опубликовано: 14 апр 2016
- The 73 CB750 had a single front disc brake. With some modification it can be set up with a dual disc which I attempted in this video.
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I’ve just this month started to work on a newly acquired 73 CB750 that’s been sitting for 32 years. Your videos are awesome and have helped me a great deal. Your attention to detail is commendable! Let me know if you have any parts for a 73 for sale. See you on the flip side.
The drill cylinder hone is a great tip Dino,,,, thanks.
Carl
Great camera work with the close-up stuff. This is something many RUclipsrs with instructional videos struggle with. Your attention to detail is appreciated. I am assembling a 72 CB500 basket case without another bike for reference. Your build is helping me a great deal. Also, you are the first person to detail the front caliper adjustment screw function/assembly. I wish I had seen this before I assembled mine. That took me a bit to figure out believe it or not..
I love the detail that you included in the torque settings for the bolts. Awesome job man. I was stuck on my CB450 but the build is the same so thanks very much. Now I'll be able to proceed with what I thought was going to be a daunting task. Cheers!
The CB750 really needs two brakes on the front. Once that I made the upgrade, it made a huge difference on the track and in the mountains. The stock master cylinder works great. I used a set of Morris Mags which were custom fit just for two brakes. I also put the lower fork sliders on the other sides so that the brakes were mounted behind the forks, which made a noticeable reduction in steering mass. C. Jeff Dyrek.
You are a great mechanic, thanks for all your informative videos, Dino!
I love the hone using Sandpaper that is just a great idea! I will be using that one thanks!
Really love this series Dino - thank you for making them. I have a '72 with a single front brake. My buddy convinced me to scrap the dual front idea and just go with a braided brake line. I'm telling you its 85% better brake feel and power. It is still not a modern feeling front brake - it will not compare to anything made in the last 25 years, but it is a major improvement that keeps the stock look. I would highly recommend this upgrade.
+mtvroadglide That's exactly what I'm doing. :) Made a big difference on my VF700S Sabre.
Thank you. Very helpful. I've just bought a k6 so it was an easy decision to subscribe.
When I did my front brake rebuild I had a a problem bleeding my brakes because I pushed the piston all the way in and couldn't get all of the air out, I noticed you did the same but hopefully things go smoothly for you.
The adjuster on the brake caliper support bracket is to make sure the pads are parallel to the disk. It is not meant to take up the disk to pad gap. The piston will do that once it is used. That is how you get the best stopping power.
My father had a 71 CB750. He put dual front disks on his without switching the master cylinder. He remembers it actually making the breaking worse because he couldn't apply enough pressure through the front breaks. Although I don't have any details on his build because he did it in 72 and he didn't have the bike from much longer because his bike was stolen that year. Regardless, good luck with you project/build
This mod, two disk brakes, has been a popular brake improvement back in the day. I have done it to two of my 750’s with no issues. Not sure why you are having a difficult time but the brakes are symmetrical and can be used on both sides. Also the master cylinder is sized wrong for one brake. Works better with two calipers. Most bikes of the time had the same issue with an oversized master cylinder.
Your fender is out by the thickness of the caliper mount , you should have put the fender mount behind the caliper mount .
DINO !!!!!!!!!!!!! just a reminder ...... i love your channel
Thanks man. Very helpful.
Brakes are not what they're made out to be, anyway! When I use mine, my bike always seem to slow down! Less is more, Dino.
I have a 77 cb750k that I am doing the dual disc conversion on and ran into the same issue with the dust shield. I just to happen to have a set of wheels from a 76 goldwing. That bike, as I'm sure you know, ran a dual disc up front. The gear box retainer, dust shield, and bolts mount up perfect. Didn't need to destroy my factory dust shield incase things don't work out. Haven't rebuilt the caliper yet so I'm not sure how the offset issue will affect things.
Have enjoyed these so far by the way, so many familiar parts of my thirty plus years doing Honda parts that ended in 2013. I've just started another job working with BSA and Ariel parts, which is f course similar but somehow very different.
+keepitrunning I'll bet you know some of the common part numbers by wrote. :)
+Dean Segovis Oh yes, so very many in my head up until 2000 anyway after that it gets all a bit messy and harder to recall as I missed 6 years of models and then had to cope with cars as well which I struggled with. Not much use to me now with Ariel and BSA but I only have to pick and pack those for 3 hours a day so that doesn't matter do much for now.
Hoo! Just purchased a '73 CB450. No idea what i am doing. None. Learning, I am. Now how do I fix the blinkers? Ha! Seriously? I am binging with pen and paper. Rode it today for first time after spark plug dud, removing frozen caliper and points cleanse (points! wtf are those?)...this blankety blank se grin is killing me!
Great, live savers
Hey Dino, might not apply for your cb750 but I know on the cb500 from that year the two fork-end clamps that hold the front axel on are uni-directional. Might be worth checking. Cheers and thanks for all your videos.
+Puffin Tyler Thanks!
Great Stuff as usual Dino, you really should turn all this series (and the Sabre) into a DVD, would be a good way to earn some extra money for the next project :)
+yankee doodle Exactly my plan.
Ichiban says that master cylinder hone was "badass".
I assume it's the same as my 550, but the bottom fork caps should have the gap at the back. The front is tightened to spec so there's no gap and the rear is tightened to spec so there is a gap. At the 20:20 mark is where you can see the cap you're putting on is backwards. Does it matter? No idea, but Honda specifically mentions this in the manual...at least for the 550 k4. I've been following since the beginning of the Sabre, awesome seeing these videos and following your progress!
+Susan Barbier Thanks! Someone on the SOHC4 forum mentioned this as well. I'll check it out and mention it in a future video.
ichi ban would use hes manual hand drill!!
Bummer, I'm dying to see how that dual disk goes on now.
+eljohn3 You have to shim the mounting arm so that it sets about 5mm closer to the wheel. Then there's the difficulty of routing the steel brake line to it. That side of the fender sits very close to the fork.
I just love your videos but damn you make it look easy! I'd go crosseyed with the numerous bolts, washers, and nuts from a basket case motorcycle build. Would you mind telling us your process of organization and how much you allow yourself to spend on hardware with a build like this ? Thanks Dino!
+beau danner I use the parts diagrams that the suppliers web pages provide as a guide. Every nut bolt and washer has a specification of its size so that helps me determine if I have the bolt on my available stock. If it's a special bolt I'll buy an original Honda part. If it's just a common bolt I use stainless steel replacements from my local hardware store.
So looking at your box of parts you're able to use the guide and determine "yeah that looks to be the one"?
+beau danner Yes by knowing the diameter and length.
YAAAYYY!!!
good work :) itchiban rulez :)
Where did you take the drawing sheet for the cb ?
What torque wrench is that? I need to get me one and don't want to spend that much money, anybody have any suggestions on which one to buy?
is the disc guard really necessary??
You should send that hone to ichiban I'm sure he'd add it to his toolbox
Can the front rotor be turned on theses bikes
Dean, I am not sure about using anything other than brake fluid as lube on the seals and piston. I'm honestly not sure how having the silicone lube in there will affect it. Just wanted to point out in case you have any better knowledge then awesome. Just don't want you to go pull the brakes and have none, lol
+Robert Craft The small amount that's there won't hurt anything. There are silicone based brake fluids available for racing applications.
What kinda of tires are those and size?
Are you planning to replace the brake lines at all? those rubber ones are usually no good after a few years, manuals usually spec their replacement
+osamarama Yes. I already have the new upper one in hand. I found a supplier on Ebay that has reasonable prices and you can order them in custom lengths and colors and get the exact fittings you want. www.ebay.com/itm/231569649883?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=530806917347&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Are the 2 powder coated mounts mirror images of the non powder coated ones. I.e. did they powder coat one from each set and got it wrong?
+Henry Mounser No. They're all the same.
How did you get the snap ring out of the master? Its insane. Ive tried a variety of dentist hooks,3 pair of snap ring pliers...no luck.
.
You have to pry it inwards with one screwdriver, then get a second screwdriver behind it and pry out and up. It's tricky.
29:08 would a manual drill work for this application?
+Jaime Flores I don't see why not.
You do realise that the 3 in K3 does not denote a 1973 model as such. It just happens to be coincidental on this model. The K means revision, from some Japanese word. So this was the third revised model. Some people refer to various K0 models but that technically means nothing. So my CL175K6 is the sixth revised model and is a 1972 model year bike. The odd thing with some series, like the various 175's is that they start with the basic model like CL175 but the next one there is I could ever find listed was the K3. I have yet to work out what happened there I just assume for some reason they were never marketed. The last K type numbering I know is the CB750K8 which of course was 1979 then Honda started on a whole new system of letters, starting with Z for 1979 then following through A for 1980 etc. By the time they got to Y it was 2000 so 2001 to 2009/used just 1 to 9 then started with A again in 2010.
It will probably handle better without the added unsprung weight of the additional caliper and disk.
(caliper is Australian spelling)
+MikMech I totally agree! These discs are really heavy so there's also the gyroscopic effect to consider.
The honing attachment...where’d ya get it?
Auto parts store.
Hey Dino are you going to paint the tank?
+Richard Powell Yes at a later date. I want to get it on the road first.
I would have used 49/128ths bit.
+truantray Yep!! :p
No locking taps on the axle holder nuts things?
+muh1h1 No tabs, just lock washers.
***** wierd, would have made alot of sense there, wouldn't it? imagine that thing ratteling lose :D
+muh1h1 Not really under any kind of stress to make it loosen up. All of the forces are on the fork not the cap. I usually put a paint mark on bolts like that and check them before I ride. My BMW has red dots on all the critical suspension and brake bolts.
Do you plan on restoring the gas tank also?
+Rodney Wienke Eventually. I'll just ride it around rat ride style for a while. :)
+Dean Segovis I did the same. My bike looked kinda cool with a rustic look.
if i have spark and gas but it wont start what could it be?
+Gino H Ignition timing, wrong amount of gas (too rich too lean) fouled spark plugs, valves out of adjustment, leaky or cracked carb mount boot.....
1979- 1982 cb750f has the duel front brakes. Rob the whole front braking system off that model.
Can't find the video on bleeding brakes .I've got a CBX 750 that is proving to be an absolute bastard.
+Alan Williams Coming up next Friday! :) They can be tricky.
Thanks,Dean.I'll look out for it.
You should be able to bleed the brakes without cracking the bleed screw by just slowly bringing the lever back and seeing the bubbles come up from master cylinder. You do not need to bring the lever all the way to the bar. You just want the air to come out. This will bleed the master and most of the system. Takes time but is effective. Once you get all the bubbles out using this method do a final bleed at the bleeder screw.
Just leave the chrome ring out now that it has been cut it doesn't do anything anymore
Is that pad between your brake pad and your piston a stock component? I don't see it in the Clymer manual's schematic, and none of the rebuild kits seem to have it, either.
ruclips.net/video/GPXLyqhUleg/видео.html
hatsune,miku
You gave up??? I had 2 disc in a front, had no problems doing it??? Mine was -74-75? model, can send you couple photoes, just need your e-mail address !!=)
what differently did you do to make it work?
shame dual disc didn't work. looks way better :(
fyi not finished the episode, maybe you got it to work :p
That's a really weird brake design...
+Kenny Downs Yeah it has it's drawbacks.
But back in 1974 we all thought it was awesome,not quite the stopping power of my Busa or ZX14 nowadays but back then it was too of the line. I have a K4 up on a bench,halfway through restoration,brings back some great memories every time I work on it.
are you greek?