Thx a lot for all your efforts. I finally decided to only use 3 types of inverters and 2 types of batteries. They are all hybrids and not only eliminate charge controllers, in some cases, combiner boxes and disconnects all together. The Solark 15K, the Schneider XW Pro and the latest EG4 18K-PV which I think is, unbeatable. When it comes to batteries, the Discover AES 42-48-6650 (expensive though. 1, 2 or 4 of them) and the 300 lb EG4 battery, when combined with the 18K (1 or 2 of them) you couldn't possibly go wrong. You might wanna throw in a T-class fuse and be in solar heaven. Thx
I have had 2 of the powmr units through my hands in the last few weeks. Strange behaviors from both. My old one (about 4 years old) works great. New ones get anywhere near voltage limits they start that up and down behavior. Anything over 45-48 amps and they start doing it also. Both got sent back. Not the same thing as the old one!
It's too bad. Good to hear someone else experienced the same thing as me. I will be testing this next batch I just got in. Might not be able to recommend over paneling them like I have in the past!
Can the DC load be set up as a dump load? I've been thinking of getting one of these and using it as a battery maintainer for a tractor. At the same time, I've noticed that 12v heat pumps have gotten affordable. If the DC load can be configured as a dump load... automatic solar climate control, stepping into air conditioned space is always a good thing in Texas.
Great video. Can the battery setting be set to 'User'? I am thinking about getting one but I want to make sure i can set it to charge my LiFePO4 batteries, Thanks!
i just bought 2 of these, i have 20 panels each 100 watt, so im doing groups of 5 for 100 volts for a 48 volt battery bank, i'll do two strings so i get 10 amps at 100 volts. run to this 60 amp controller. people say these cant handle high voltage or it shortens the life of unit. whats the max voltage you have tried with this? im doing 20 agm batterys. any good advice as i set this up??
To use the DC load output with any load use an equal rated to the load relay. Match the relay control circuit to be less or at the same current for the charge controller output.
I just bought 60 amp charger controller the only thing I noticed the fan running continuously which I don’t Ike it’s there a particular setting to control the cooling fan ? Thanks for your video excellent information
MANY THANKS for taking the time to make this video! As you already know, the manual linguistically leaves a bit to be desired, and your presentation cleared up most of my confusion. Their charge terminology (float in particular) seemed a bit misplaced in terms of a lithium battery. My question to you: What would you set the "float" setting on this controller to for charging a "12 volt" lifepo4 battery??? The battery in question recommends 14.4 to 14.6v as the optimal charge range. And... is the charger actually performing a bulk and a float charge (the manual seems to indicate it's "float only" for the lithium setting)??? One more thing: I have the 80 amp model and I contacted the manufacturer to inquire about the MAX DC output available through the "LOAD" output terminals... they responded back and said the LOAD output was rated for 10 amps MAX. Thanks again!
Thanks for the good review and comparison. Quick side question, I see varying response to whether you can or can't simultaneously have the solar panels connected to the charge controller as well as the battery while also running a power inverter with a pretty strong load. Any rules of thumb? Thanks!
Question as someone who is learning about solar. I bought a sailboat and the house is a 12v system and works great with 2 100v panels. But my electric motor is a 48v battery and the previous owners didn’t add solar for that. I’m looking in to this but I have limited space for panels. Am I going to lack charging due to this? Could I also split my existing panels to the 48v system and use those in addition? Thanks for any advice 😊
Looking into 40 amp mppt charge control with 6 volt golf cart batteries teens into 3 ,12 volt batteries what do set the controller at ❓what kind of batteries r golf cart battery
@@BeeneEnergy The panels have VOC of 46.14 and 9.38 short circuit current and 8.87 Imp . The panels are in 3s 2p configuration . I'm using 10 gauge wire from the combiner box to the Ampinvt-Acp 80 @ 138 VOC @ 24v. The batteries are 2 flooded 12v car batteries in series for 24 volts.
I have been using the 40 amp version of the Ampinvt charge controller and it has been working well with my 36 volt lithium batteries and 4x 330 watt solar panels.
I have been using the 5000 watt for charging our EV for the past 6 months. It runs at steady 60% load from 10am to 5pm while charging, in 110deg Texas summer heat, and gets only warm to the touch. Fans are a little loud, but it's in the garage. So far I really like it.
I have been using their Inverters and what i found is that they cant charge batteries properly i mean it cant charge at bulk mode and float mode instead it will change at a constant voltage . Does this charge controller also doing the same ?
So what voltage does the load output put out? I'll be connecting to a 24v battery. Does that load output just give you another connection parallel to your batteries?
After a lot of research, i came to the conclusion that for lead acid battery this MPPT is not optimal without tweaking the float voltage setting.In fact all mppt that doenst have timer setting for absorption phase is not optimal for lead acid. My battery bank become chronically undercharged because after raising the batterie voltage to 29 v in MPPT mode (24 volt system), the MPPT switch to float mode wich was set to 27.6 despite the battery not being fully charged. So my hack was to change the voltage for float charging to 29 volt in the setting. So basically my float charging stage is my absorption stage (constant voltage, decreasing current).
Why not jump up from a 24V system to a 48V system. Off grid, lithium batteries. Is balencing cells the problem or because inverters get too pricey? 4x12 or 2x24s parel for 24v is my sirent thinking with 2 controllers. Found anything better? I am looking to have 2-3kws of panels. Great videos thanks Henry in VT
Hey Henry! Most of the systems I do are 48v but sometimes I end up at 24v for customers due to other concerns, like the potential of shocking themselves or the cost of a 12 > 24v charger vs. an 12 > 48v charger in a mobile application, etc. When I calculate things out it's often less expensive to do 48v since expandability is so much better. More inverter options, less charge controllers needed, smaller wire sizes, etc.
When would a solar charge controller ever “cut off” and then come back on with the battery bank now disconnected? That would require a person to turn the controller on without first connecting the batteries. Auto voltage select is a wondrous thing…as long as the batteries are turned on first.
I had a customer with a pair of 12v lithium batteries in series. Best I could tell overnight the batteries would hit low voltage disconnect. Really just one of them and then the inverter would see about 11 volts. It's a 24v inverter. There was a charge controller with auto detect connected that would auto detect 11v and see it as a 12v battery. When the sun came out it wouldn't charge until he turned it off and back on again. The 24v inverter was fine since it would always charge the battery as if it was a 24v battery. That's just my experience, bit of an odd case but a case none the less :).
How do you know it didn’t detect? The numbers in the settings menu will always show as if it’s 12v. You have to double or quadruple in your head for higher voltage batteries.
Question is how long do they last once you get past that 30 day amazon return policy can you get a warranty replacement when dealing with a direct Chinese company.
I've seen a comparison of the MakeSkyBlue vs PowMr chargers. It seems the MakeSkyBlue is a much better build, both hardware and software. Perhaps replace the PowMr charger with the MakeSkyBlue equivalent...
Is there really a big difference between PWM and MPPT equipment? Or is it just a selling point. Every power source whether passive or active gonna have "internal resistance". This internal resistance will have an effect on efficiency. In engineering, the maximum power transferred is when internal or input resistance is equal to the load resistance.
If one is willing to match the solar panel voltage to their battery bank pwm is just fine. But mppt allows running higher voltage solar strings to a lower voltage battery, this is really where it shines.
If you look at how lead acid batteries are to be charged they are in bulk until the voltage of the battery hits say 14.6v, then it enters an absorption stage for a certain number of minutes where it stays at 14.6v, after this time period it drops to 13.5v where there is still current flowing into the batteries but a lot less. They sit in float until dark is the idea. With lithium it's a simpler cccv profile where you charge in bulk to say 14v and you stay at 14v with the current tapering off to near 0 until dark.
Good luck with this cheap chinese made ampinvt controller. .. bought and started using it exactly a year ago (April, 2023) and just stopped charging with "stop" charging fault, so am switching over to a more expensive but industrial grade brand (victron) and should last for decades. Not recommended unless one's ok to waste $272.05 CA for a year's use. Customer support is non existence.
@@BeeneEnergywhat about the full-sun / high voltage cutout bug with Epever? They are great units but I’ve had problems over 5+ units and at least 4 models and I’m watching this because I want an inexpensive alternative that won’t leave my LiFePo batteries insufficient to last overnight.
Terrible system friend; panels 80 volts, batteries 28 volts!! that poor MPPT is spilling its guts, always In HEAT!!! MATCH those 2 voltages... either parallel panels ( to down volts) or series ,or buy more, the batteries(to up volts). The way you have it, is WASTEFUL, bet the MPPT fan never stops.
It’s actually quite common to run a much higher pv voltage than battery. My hybrid inverters at home do up to 500v input down to a 48v battery. In my own testing running a higher voltage actually increases efficiency.
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
Great review! Time will tell about longevity, but I hope for the best. Thanks for the plug :)
I've been using the 80 amp version before I bought it I checked all the reviews everyone loves them I've had zero issues
How is it so far since your last post a year ago
Thx a lot for all your efforts. I finally decided to only use 3 types of inverters and 2 types of batteries. They are all hybrids and not only eliminate charge controllers, in some cases, combiner boxes and disconnects all together. The Solark 15K, the Schneider XW Pro and the latest EG4 18K-PV which I think is, unbeatable. When it comes to batteries, the Discover AES 42-48-6650 (expensive though. 1, 2 or 4 of them) and the 300 lb EG4 battery, when combined with the 18K (1 or 2 of them) you couldn't possibly go wrong. You might wanna throw in a T-class fuse and be in solar heaven. Thx
The Ampinvt will limit out around 61.5. Also It is the best CC for low light conditions
I have had 2 of the powmr units through my hands in the last few weeks. Strange behaviors from both. My old one (about 4 years old) works great. New ones get anywhere near voltage limits they start that up and down behavior. Anything over 45-48 amps and they start doing it also. Both got sent back. Not the same thing as the old one!
It's too bad. Good to hear someone else experienced the same thing as me. I will be testing this next batch I just got in. Might not be able to recommend over paneling them like I have in the past!
Experiencing the same thing also, the newer one are definitely not like the old ones
Just bought the 80 amp version. Thanks!
Can the DC load be set up as a dump load? I've been thinking of getting one of these and using it as a battery maintainer for a tractor. At the same time, I've noticed that 12v heat pumps have gotten affordable.
If the DC load can be configured as a dump load... automatic solar climate control, stepping into air conditioned space is always a good thing in Texas.
Thanks for the great reviews
Great video. Can the battery setting be set to 'User'? I am thinking about getting one but I want to make sure i can set it to charge my LiFePO4 batteries, Thanks!
Are your solar panels in series for what Volts?
i just bought 2 of these, i have 20 panels each 100 watt, so im doing groups of 5 for 100 volts for a 48 volt battery bank, i'll do two strings so i get 10 amps at 100 volts. run to this 60 amp controller. people say these cant handle high voltage or it shortens the life of unit. whats the max voltage you have tried with this? im doing 20 agm batterys. any good advice as i set this up??
Yep biggest problem with PowMr is this auto sense for 48v systems, it starts at 36v , so you have to manually do it even there new orange model
To use the DC load output with any load use an equal rated to the load relay. Match the relay control circuit to be less or at the same current for the charge controller output.
I just bought 60 amp charger controller the only thing I noticed the fan running continuously which I don’t Ike it’s there a particular setting to control the cooling fan ? Thanks for your video excellent information
MANY THANKS for taking the time to make this video! As you already know, the manual linguistically leaves a bit to be desired, and your presentation cleared up most of my confusion. Their charge terminology (float in particular) seemed a bit misplaced in terms of a lithium battery. My question to you: What would you set the "float" setting on this controller to for charging a "12 volt" lifepo4 battery??? The battery in question recommends 14.4 to 14.6v as the optimal charge range. And... is the charger actually performing a bulk and a float charge (the manual seems to indicate it's "float only" for the lithium setting)???
One more thing: I have the 80 amp model and I contacted the manufacturer to inquire about the MAX DC output available through the "LOAD" output terminals... they responded back and said the LOAD output was rated for 10 amps MAX.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the good review and comparison. Quick side question, I see varying response to whether you can or can't simultaneously have the solar panels connected to the charge controller as well as the battery while also running a power inverter with a pretty strong load. Any rules of thumb? Thanks!
Question as someone who is learning about solar. I bought a sailboat and the house is a 12v system and works great with 2 100v panels. But my electric motor is a 48v battery and the previous owners didn’t add solar for that. I’m looking in to this but I have limited space for panels. Am I going to lack charging due to this? Could I also split my existing panels to the 48v system and use those in addition? Thanks for any advice 😊
Looking into 40 amp mppt charge control with 6 volt golf cart batteries teens into 3 ,12 volt batteries what do set the controller at ❓what kind of batteries r golf cart battery
I have the 80 amp version. And can't seem to get the mppt to produce the full 80 amps. Any suggestions?
Tell me about what panels you have, how they are configured series vs parallel, gauge of wire you are using, battery voltage, and what battery.
@@BeeneEnergy The panels have VOC of 46.14 and 9.38 short circuit current and 8.87 Imp . The panels are in 3s 2p configuration . I'm using 10 gauge wire from the combiner box to the Ampinvt-Acp 80 @ 138 VOC @ 24v. The batteries are 2 flooded 12v car batteries in series for 24 volts.
Aside from the better screen, and higher amp output, it appears to permit higher panel total watts and voltage for a 24V system than the PowMr.
I have been using the 40 amp version of the Ampinvt charge controller and it has been working well with my 36 volt lithium batteries and 4x 330 watt solar panels.
What are your thoughts on one of the Ampinvt in 48v? I'd like to see the panels set up and see what it puts out!! Great video! Thank you for posting!
Great video. Do you by chance have any experience with Ampinvt low frequency inverters?
I have been using the 5000 watt for charging our EV for the past 6 months. It runs at steady 60% load from 10am to 5pm while charging, in 110deg Texas summer heat, and gets only warm to the touch. Fans are a little loud, but it's in the garage. So far I really like it.
Could you point me to the parts for your shunt meter setup?
My friend what’s the better setting to protect my battery? I running 24v
I have been using their Inverters and what i found is that they cant charge batteries properly i mean it cant charge at bulk mode and float mode instead it will change at a constant voltage . Does this charge controller also doing the same ?
Again when that fan goes, the thing is toast unless it throttles and you have replacement fans.
Can the Ampinvt handle two 455 watt panels at 49.5 volts while using a 24 volt battery?
Seems reasonable. I think it’s 105v max when on a 24v battery so I’d keep the panels in parallel.
So what voltage does the load output put out? I'll be connecting to a 24v battery. Does that load output just give you another connection parallel to your batteries?
Every charge controller I've tested this on it's battery voltage that comes out. They don't typically have a DC to DC converter outputting 12v.
After a lot of research, i came to the conclusion that for lead acid battery this MPPT is not optimal without tweaking the float voltage setting.In fact all mppt that doenst have timer setting for absorption phase is not optimal for lead acid. My battery bank become chronically undercharged because after raising the batterie voltage to 29 v in MPPT mode (24 volt system), the MPPT switch to float mode wich was set to 27.6 despite the battery not being fully charged. So my hack was to change the voltage for float charging to 29 volt in the setting. So basically my float charging stage is my absorption stage (constant voltage, decreasing current).
Why not jump up from a 24V system to a 48V system. Off grid, lithium batteries. Is balencing cells the problem or because inverters get too pricey? 4x12 or 2x24s parel for 24v is my sirent thinking with 2 controllers.
Found anything better?
I am looking to have 2-3kws of panels.
Great videos thanks Henry in VT
Hey Henry! Most of the systems I do are 48v but sometimes I end up at 24v for customers due to other concerns, like the potential of shocking themselves or the cost of a 12 > 24v charger vs. an 12 > 48v charger in a mobile application, etc. When I calculate things out it's often less expensive to do 48v since expandability is so much better. More inverter options, less charge controllers needed, smaller wire sizes, etc.
Como se desactiva lo del modo flotante?
Gracias por tu ayuda
Change the battery type from Pb to Lithium
DO have this MPPT WEB server to see everything on-line ?
I don't. Should look up and get some of the communications for it but haven't yet.
When would a solar charge controller ever “cut off” and then come back on with the battery bank now disconnected? That would require a person to turn the controller on without first connecting the batteries. Auto voltage select is a wondrous thing…as long as the batteries are turned on first.
I had a customer with a pair of 12v lithium batteries in series. Best I could tell overnight the batteries would hit low voltage disconnect. Really just one of them and then the inverter would see about 11 volts. It's a 24v inverter. There was a charge controller with auto detect connected that would auto detect 11v and see it as a 12v battery. When the sun came out it wouldn't charge until he turned it off and back on again. The 24v inverter was fine since it would always charge the battery as if it was a 24v battery. That's just my experience, bit of an odd case but a case none the less :).
would not auto detect 24 powMR both I have two I could not use 24 V at all how do I fix this?
How do you know it didn’t detect? The numbers in the settings menu will always show as if it’s 12v. You have to double or quadruple in your head for higher voltage batteries.
i was not getting any watts in 24 vold setup so I got the new orange one@@BeeneEnergy
POWMR DON,T SEEM TO CHARGE THE BATTERY OVER 13.2 800 WATTS OF PANELS 12V SYSTEM , MAY I SHOULD GO TO 24V ON PANELS?
I have 48v system and have seen 2600w on my powmr
Question is how long do they last once you get past that 30 day amazon return policy can you get a warranty replacement when dealing with a direct Chinese company.
I’ll be honest, I don’t count on that for any Chinese product. If I wanted actual warranty I’d choose something based here in the states.
@@BeeneEnergy what is your floating charge in the controller? I am using lithium
What to set in controller floating voltage? I am using lithium
I set float to the same as bulk on lithium batteries.
@@BeeneEnergy so 14.2-14.6?
I've seen a comparison of the MakeSkyBlue vs PowMr chargers. It seems the MakeSkyBlue is a much better build, both hardware and software. Perhaps replace the PowMr charger with the MakeSkyBlue equivalent...
Hard to get makeskyblue anything..
@@williamkn621 Seems to be plenty on Ali.
@@CollinBaillie yes, no us distribution anymore. No warranty
Is there really a big difference between PWM and MPPT equipment? Or is it just a selling point. Every power source whether passive or active gonna have "internal resistance".
This internal resistance will have an effect on efficiency. In engineering, the maximum power transferred is when internal or input resistance is equal to the load resistance.
If one is willing to match the solar panel voltage to their battery bank pwm is just fine. But mppt allows running higher voltage solar strings to a lower voltage battery, this is really where it shines.
@@BeeneEnergy understood
it's night and day ... don't go for pwm
With PWM a 350 watt panel acts like a 100 watt panel in a 12 volt system.
what does float mode mean /????
If you look at how lead acid batteries are to be charged they are in bulk until the voltage of the battery hits say 14.6v, then it enters an absorption stage for a certain number of minutes where it stays at 14.6v, after this time period it drops to 13.5v where there is still current flowing into the batteries but a lot less. They sit in float until dark is the idea. With lithium it's a simpler cccv profile where you charge in bulk to say 14v and you stay at 14v with the current tapering off to near 0 until dark.
Very informative thanks Man!
HEY i eed switch like then testers , sand me a link
US government is going to have to reinvest in their fire services given the number of videos like this there are on YT 😅
Good luck with this cheap chinese made ampinvt controller. .. bought and started using it exactly a year ago (April, 2023) and just stopped charging with "stop" charging fault, so am switching over to a more expensive but industrial grade brand (victron) and should last for decades. Not recommended unless one's ok to waste $272.05 CA for a year's use. Customer support is non existence.
you dont like epever ?
I know, an unpopular opinion. The epevers perform great. Personally my biggest beef, if I can call it that, is the user interface that is clunky.
@@BeeneEnergywhat about the full-sun / high voltage cutout bug with Epever? They are great units but I’ve had problems over 5+ units and at least 4 models and I’m watching this because I want an inexpensive alternative that won’t leave my LiFePo batteries insufficient to last overnight.
Terrible system friend; panels 80 volts, batteries 28 volts!! that poor MPPT is spilling its guts, always In HEAT!!!
MATCH those 2 voltages... either parallel panels ( to down volts) or series ,or buy more, the batteries(to up volts).
The way you have it, is WASTEFUL, bet the MPPT fan never stops.
It’s actually quite common to run a much higher pv voltage than battery. My hybrid inverters at home do up to 500v input down to a 48v battery. In my own testing running a higher voltage actually increases efficiency.