@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 I would to buy you knife jig set for centering blade with different thickness . what I have to do? I haven't found it on your shop. thank you. sorry but I don't speak English very well!😁
Many problems solved! Thanks. You are the best in this field and on this planet. You offer so much inspiration for all of us. Awesome and keep em coming.
We're a relatively small community, us Tormek geeks. But to us, you're going to be remembered as one of the godfathers of perfectionist knife sharpening. Just measured my SVM-45 (2.17mm) and SVM-140 (3.10mm). Both were bought here in New Zealand.
Absolutely fantastic video! Thank you so very much for the information. I'll be measuring all my jigs today and modifying them accordingly. I also subscribed to your channel and I'm looking forward to seeing more from your shop. Thanks again for helping me solve a problem in my shop.
I have never used a Tormek but the problem I see is keeping the knife edge perfectly even, perfectly balanced left-to-right, on the wheel. Any variation would produce a concave spot, wouldn't it? I tried a very simple grinding wheel (wet) to remove some chips and almost totally messed up the knife, leaving an uneven edge that I had to work back to straight by hand on a coarse grit whetstone. Also, if you have a knife like a Santoku with a gently curving edge (convex), won't grinding it on a wheel reduce that curve, making it closer to straight? Wouldn't you have to judge how much to lift the blade, and somehow get that same degree of lift on the opposite side?
I have seen homemade jigs that do not have a fixed jaw, rather both of the jaws are "floating", being squeezed together with a thumb screw. The ends of the jaws opposite the ends that are clamping the knife are loosely riveted to a piece that is attached to the rod.
Thanks again for a great video and instruction. I was curious if instead of using the Triton jig, you milled some out of the top of the tormek jig as well as the bottom?
Outstanding sir! I am just getting started with a small home based sharpening business. I could only afford the Wen system at this time and was wondering about this issue. I should be able to correct this now that I've watched another one of your amazing videos. I hope to find a way to order a kangaroo strop for US sale sometime.
Do you use our applet for WEN to grind and deburr the edge? One of our customers in the US who has the BESS sharpness tester wrote to me that with our applet he gets a 90 BESS edge on the WEN, an extremely sharp edge.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 I plan to buy that and your book very soon. Waiting so I can pay for them on the business account. Almost there, just getting some practice and looking forward to buying a Tormek and building your paper wheel setup. still need a Roo strop.....?
We finish sharpening either with a paper wheel with pure chromium oxide, or the Kangaroo tail hanging strop, and generally but not always, the chromium oxide works better. Generally, the rock-hard felt wheel followed by the chromium oxide wheel complete deburring, and the Kangaroo tail hanging strop cannot improve sharpness any further. On the WEN BG4270 you can use our deburring methods - it is actually the only slow wet grinder other than Tormek, suitable for our methods thanks to the WEN bi-directional rotation. Our applet for WEN includes both the grinding and honing modes.
It seems like Tormek should sell a jig that can center a 5mm knife, (or maybe thicker or thinner, I'm not sure), and then sell a variety of cheap plastic shims that clip over the spine to accommodate knives of different thicknesses. Not only would the shim center the knife but it would also protect the knife from scratches from the jig. So instead of putting tape on the knife you simply slide on a plastic shim of the appropriate thickness. The blade is centered and the finish of the knife is protected.
Clever thinking - yes, we can do with only one modified jig that we call #3 in this video, that has 1mm milled off the fixed clamp jaw, and use shims or cloth tape. It will work with blades 3 to 5 mm at the spine.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 Perhaps the shim would need a thin layer of rubber for better grip? Plain rubber seems like it would be too soft, it might compress too much.
Would it not be possible to switch the knife if the blade is not centered? In that case, you could "copy the offset" to the other side which should then create a symmetric bevel. I assume it just would not be very practical if you have to sharp a lot of knives. Greetings from Switzerland.
Sure I tried flipping the blade in the jig. The bevels grind more symmetric, but the sharpness drops. Sharpness is the matter of a fraction of micron at the edge apex, and when we flip the blade, the apex position changes and it comes less sharp.
Should it not be better/possible to make a self-centering jig? Sure this would require som enginering but I would gladly pay a premium price for it. Strange Tormek has not yet announced this when they seem to want to make it as easy and available as possible for a wide user group to use their machines.
Because the knife jig must adjust to the blade taper both towards the edge and the tip, engineering a proper self-centering knife jig is not simple, and in my estimate would come triple as expensive as the current Tormek knife jig. Also knife jigs do not last forever under commercial sharpening load, and who is willing to pay big $ for the jig every 3-5 years?
Tormek have now replaced the SVM-45 and SVM-140 with two new centring knife jigs. The much-improved design of the KJ-45 and KJ-140 need no adjustments and knives of any thickness held in them will have equal bevels on both sides of those blades' edges.
I have used knives with asymmetrical sides by .001 mm to cut tomatoes, and I had to throw away the salad because the tomatoes taste awful due to the asymmetry of the edges of the knife that was used to prepare the salad. 😂✌️
@@redangrybird7564 Who are these clowns? Where can we find them? Nobody cares about 0.001 mm bevels. But the difference can result in extra grinding next time, so rather important they are even.
So glad to see your videos popping up again... By far the best sharpening content on RUclips!
Thank you Brad.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 I would to buy you knife jig set for centering blade with different thickness . what I have to do? I haven't found it on your shop. thank you. sorry but I don't speak English very well!😁
We do not modify knife jigs for sale. See Part IV of this video how to modify yourself.
I never even thought about the jig relationship to knife thickness, thank you for posting this
Many problems solved! Thanks. You are the best in this field and on this planet. You offer so much inspiration for all of us. Awesome and keep em coming.
So nice of you
Thank you for the comprehensive video Vadim. I really had trouble fitting the Knives. Now everything is clear to me. Thank you again.
Glad it helped, Todor. I also thank you for your email.
Ahhh, another great video. That was something I had not thought of. Thanks
We're a relatively small community, us Tormek geeks. But to us, you're going to be remembered as one of the godfathers of perfectionist knife sharpening.
Just measured my SVM-45 (2.17mm) and SVM-140 (3.10mm). Both were bought here in New Zealand.
Absolutely fantastic video! Thank you so very much for the information. I'll be measuring all my jigs today and modifying them accordingly. I also subscribed to your channel and I'm looking forward to seeing more from your shop. Thanks again for helping me solve a problem in my shop.
He passed away last year.
At 1:30 you say Triton has no offset - but doesn't the recess at the end of the jaw constitute an offset?
How does the new tormeck compare with top and bottom recessed?
Sadly, Vadim is no longer with us. He is greatly missed.
Thank you Vadim. Again you provide os whit good sharpening tips/information so wee all can be better sharpeners..
you are the best🔪🔪
spare my blushes, Jan
How does an asymmetric bevel cut? Will it drift off to one side?
I have never used a Tormek but the problem I see is keeping the knife edge perfectly even, perfectly balanced left-to-right, on the wheel. Any variation would produce a concave spot, wouldn't it? I tried a very simple grinding wheel (wet) to remove some chips and almost totally messed up the knife, leaving an uneven edge that I had to work back to straight by hand on a coarse grit whetstone. Also, if you have a knife like a Santoku with a gently curving edge (convex), won't grinding it on a wheel reduce that curve, making it closer to straight? Wouldn't you have to judge how much to lift the blade, and somehow get that same degree of lift on the opposite side?
At 1:50 it appears there IS offset built into the nose of that clamp (a dropped recess across width of clamp) ..., no?
This is the recess of 3 mm that I milled. The stock Triton jig does not have it.
I have seen homemade jigs that do not have a fixed jaw, rather both of the jaws are "floating", being squeezed together with a thumb screw. The ends of the jaws opposite the ends that are clamping the knife are loosely riveted to a piece that is attached to the rod.
Thanks again for a great video and instruction. I was curious if instead of using the Triton jig, you milled some out of the top of the tormek jig as well as the bottom?
Outstanding sir! I am just getting started with a small home based sharpening business. I could only afford the Wen system at this time and was wondering about this issue. I should be able to correct this now that I've watched another one of your amazing videos. I hope to find a way to order a kangaroo strop for US sale sometime.
Do you use our applet for WEN to grind and deburr the edge? One of our customers in the US who has the BESS sharpness tester wrote to me that with our applet he gets a 90 BESS edge on the WEN, an extremely sharp edge.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 I plan to buy that and your book very soon. Waiting so I can pay for them on the business account. Almost there, just getting some practice and looking forward to buying a Tormek and building your paper wheel setup. still need a Roo strop.....?
We finish sharpening either with a paper wheel with pure chromium oxide, or the Kangaroo tail hanging strop, and generally but not always, the chromium oxide works better. Generally, the rock-hard felt wheel followed by the chromium oxide wheel complete deburring, and the Kangaroo tail hanging strop cannot improve sharpness any further.
On the WEN BG4270 you can use our deburring methods - it is actually the only slow wet grinder other than Tormek, suitable for our methods thanks to the WEN bi-directional rotation. Our applet for WEN includes both the grinding and honing modes.
Are the chinese WEN jigs identical to the Tormek jigs with regard to the offset?
It seems like Tormek should sell a jig that can center a 5mm knife, (or maybe thicker or thinner, I'm not sure), and then sell a variety of cheap plastic shims that clip over the spine to accommodate knives of different thicknesses. Not only would the shim center the knife but it would also protect the knife from scratches from the jig.
So instead of putting tape on the knife you simply slide on a plastic shim of the appropriate thickness. The blade is centered and the finish of the knife is protected.
Clever thinking - yes, we can do with only one modified jig that we call #3 in this video, that has 1mm milled off the fixed clamp jaw, and use shims or cloth tape. It will work with blades 3 to 5 mm at the spine.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158
Perhaps the shim would need a thin layer of rubber for better grip? Plain rubber seems like it would be too soft, it might compress too much.
How much
Would it not be possible to switch the knife if the blade is not centered? In that case, you could "copy the offset" to the other side which should then create a symmetric bevel. I assume it just would not be very practical if you have to sharp a lot of knives. Greetings from Switzerland.
Sure I tried flipping the blade in the jig. The bevels grind more symmetric, but the sharpness drops. Sharpness is the matter of a fraction of micron at the edge apex, and when we flip the blade, the apex position changes and it comes less sharp.
My offset is 1.125 mm. Thank you for this informations.
I agree with Brad
Should it not be better/possible to make a self-centering jig? Sure this would require som enginering but I would gladly pay a premium price for it. Strange Tormek has not yet announced this when they seem to want to make it as easy and available as possible for a wide user group to use their machines.
Because the knife jig must adjust to the blade taper both towards the edge and the tip, engineering a proper self-centering knife jig is not simple, and in my estimate would come triple as expensive as the current Tormek knife jig. Also knife jigs do not last forever under commercial sharpening load, and who is willing to pay big $ for the jig every 3-5 years?
Very well explained, thanks!
I sure like the 45 model better than the new Tormek. Too much plastic.
Tormek have now replaced the SVM-45 and SVM-140 with two new centring knife jigs. The much-improved design of the KJ-45 and KJ-140 need no adjustments and knives of any thickness held in them will have equal bevels on both sides of those blades' edges.
I have used knives with asymmetrical sides by .001 mm to cut tomatoes, and I had to throw away the salad because the tomatoes taste awful due to the asymmetry of the edges of the knife that was used to prepare the salad.
😂✌️
You are revealing you simply do not get it.
@@elbuggo I'm just making fun of clowns who get very particular about asymmetrical bevels of just 0.001 mm 😁
@@redangrybird7564 Who are these clowns? Where can we find them? Nobody cares about 0.001 mm bevels. But the difference can result in extra grinding next time, so rather important they are even.