@@jmack428 If you mean right behind the rear windows on that panel that connects to the roof, then yes. It was really rotted there. I still need to do some finishing work on that area.
Good work my friend, just subscribed... Doing an off the frame restoration on an all matching number original 70 SS 396 with build sheet.... You do have that welder tuned in perfect!!!!
Great restoration work and an awesome video. I’m fairly certain I will be doing similar cowl repairs on my 1968 Malibu wagon sometime in the future. In the interest of reducing the rust between now and then can you tell me where the cowl drains out? I had someone else state that the cowl drains water into the rockers and then exits by the rear wheel arch. Is that correct? Thanks!
There is a place for water to drain out at the bottom of the cowl, and some of that water can get into the rockers however there are drain holes in the rockers if water reaches that far. The main reason the cowl rusts is because of the dirt, leaves and debris that collects there and holds the moisture.
Thank you for the reply. Mine are definitely full of leaves and crud which can be seen from the inside cowl vents. I will clean them out and assess the rust once it warms up a bit. Thanks again!
I'll be getting a 70 396 matching numbers car myself soon that needs some restoration. I'll have someone do the the interior, but really would like to try the body work. I have all the right tools just worried about messing it up.
Thats an awesome car. Don't worry about messing it up, I learned from my projects that after bodywork and block sanding if it doesn't look good. You can always if needed, add a bit more body filler and sand/prime/blocksand all over again to make it perfect. good luck with your project.
@@soolegarage Thanks, your videos made me want to try it myself even more and save money while doing it. At what point do you make the decision to just purchase a new panel vs patching?
@@mstang61 repairing small areas of rust I always recommend but when a panel looks like Swiss cheese replace it. Or if there is a panel that has been damaged in an accident and you are unable to get it straight which will require a lot of body filler, replace it.
I’m getting ready to change out the passenger inner and putter cowl as well as the rocker to cowl reinforcement, do you have any advice, I got the seam chisels and air hammer, getting a little nervous as I will be starting to drill out the welds. Any help would be appreciated. 70 Chevelle
My only advice would be drill out as many spot welds as you can. The air chisel works great for separating the panels after drilling. The air chisel can also tear things up. Also good prep before spot welding everything back together. Clean metal and I usually use a weld through primer on all bare metal that gets spot welded together. I always take some before pics if there are any reassembly questions.
I would always recommend welding in new metal where there is rust that has eaten through. After wedding in new metal I will usually add a thin coat of fiberglass filler over the ground off welds. That allows me to sand and get a good finish before priming.
I have an Atlanta built 70 chevelle SS with build sheet; about to start working on it, and was checking out your Millermatic 211, thats what I have in mind. In a couple days I'll be making that purchase for sheet metal welding, whats your thought?
You will love the versatility of the 211, I became a better welder with the 211. I do have a Hobart handler 140 and used it for a long time but didn't have the ability to weld 1/4 inch or frame material. With the 211 auto set you can dial in your thickness and always get a good weld.
Just binged all the episodes. Great work! I'm working on my 70 Chevelle 4 door and I'm taking a lot of notes!
I am in the process of restoring a 4 door 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass! Can't find many videos about them. 4 doors are underated!
@@13eldrjosh37 I'm working on custom metal work for the lower corners of the rear windows. Is yours rusted out there too?
@@jmack428 If you mean right behind the rear windows on that panel that connects to the roof, then yes. It was really rotted there. I still need to do some finishing work on that area.
Nice video James. Really look forward to these. Want more faster....
Working on it! My other job keeps getting in the way.
Good work my friend, just subscribed... Doing an off the frame restoration on an all matching number original 70 SS 396 with build sheet.... You do have that welder tuned in perfect!!!!
Great restoration work and an awesome video. I’m fairly certain I will be doing similar cowl repairs on my 1968 Malibu wagon sometime in the future. In the interest of reducing the rust between now and then can you tell me where the cowl drains out? I had someone else state that the cowl drains water into the rockers and then exits by the rear wheel arch. Is that correct? Thanks!
There is a place for water to drain out at the bottom of the cowl, and some of that water can get into the rockers however there are drain holes in the rockers if water reaches that far. The main reason the cowl rusts is because of the dirt, leaves and debris that collects there and holds the moisture.
Thank you for the reply. Mine are definitely full of leaves and crud which can be seen from the inside cowl vents. I will clean them out and assess the rust once it warms up a bit. Thanks again!
I'll be getting a 70 396 matching numbers car myself soon that needs some restoration. I'll have someone do the the interior, but really would like to try the body work. I have all the right tools just worried about messing it up.
Thats an awesome car. Don't worry about messing it up, I learned from my projects that after bodywork and block sanding if it doesn't look good. You can always if needed, add a bit more body filler and sand/prime/blocksand all over again to make it perfect. good luck with your project.
@@soolegarage Thanks, your videos made me want to try it myself even more and save money while doing it. At what point do you make the decision to just purchase a new panel vs patching?
@@mstang61 repairing small areas of rust I always recommend but when a panel looks like Swiss cheese replace it. Or if there is a panel that has been damaged in an accident and you are unable to get it straight which will require a lot of body filler, replace it.
I’m getting ready to change out the passenger inner and putter cowl as well as the rocker to cowl reinforcement, do you have any advice, I got the seam chisels and air hammer, getting a little nervous as I will be starting to drill out the welds. Any help would be appreciated. 70 Chevelle
My only advice would be drill out as many spot welds as you can. The air chisel works great for separating the panels after drilling. The air chisel can also tear things up. Also good prep before spot welding everything back together. Clean metal and I usually use a weld through primer on all bare metal that gets spot welded together. I always take some before pics if there are any reassembly questions.
On the A pillar, is there a specific reason to use fiberglass filler instead of all metal?
Im doing a 70 2dr coupe, just wondering the benefits.
I would always recommend welding in new metal where there is rust that has eaten through. After wedding in new metal I will usually add a thin coat of fiberglass filler over the ground off welds. That allows me to sand and get a good finish before priming.
@@soolegarage i meant 'all metal', the metallic version of bondo. 2 part mixes like bondo but magnet sticks to it.
@@andrewturner1714 ooops, sorry. I have heard good things about All Metal but have never used it?
I have an Atlanta built 70 chevelle SS with build sheet; about to start working on it, and was checking out your Millermatic 211, thats what I have in mind. In a couple days I'll be making that purchase for sheet metal welding, whats your thought?
You will love the versatility of the 211, I became a better welder with the 211. I do have a Hobart handler 140 and used it for a long time but didn't have the ability to weld 1/4 inch or frame material. With the 211 auto set you can dial in your thickness and always get a good weld.
Also wanted to say that I am impressed with your chevelle project where did you find it?
@@soolegarage I have a Holbart 140, will that be good enough for body work? If needed I'll borrow my friends Miller for frame work.
@@mstang61 Yes Hobart 140 will be excellent for welding body panels. I own the same welder.
Brother I’m restoring a 72 Chevelle. I have a question, think u can put the link to where u got the inner and outer cowl?
www.autometaldirect.com/body-components-cowl-section-c-23_102.html?pager=2