BMW 540i E39 `02 w M62TU eng pt.4 VANOS, timing chains guides lower timing cover rem special tools
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- Опубликовано: 20 мар 2016
- Description: pt.4 BMW 540i E39 M62TU engine VANOS, timing chains guides upper lower timing covers removal, oil pan, special tools overview. Installing 1 style of cam locking tools, and tensioner arm support block, removing and installing secondary chains, tensioners, vanos cam sprockets.
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I have a 2001 540 m sport six speed. It has 235000 miles on it and I have owned it since new. It had a new clutch at 165K radiator and expansion chamer at 180. Still on original chain guides, brakes, control arms and struts. It just came from its checkup and aside from a new passenger side turn signal bulb holder, it needed nothing. Amazing. I never beat the shit out of it and I always change the oil every 5K miles, and it doesnt use a drop between changes. I guess this must be the exception or it shows if you take care of BMW cars, they take care of you...I been driving BMW;s since the 70's
i just wanna say thank you so much for making the videos of this engine i have the same one in my 2001 740il and by watching all your videos over and over again i just finished mine 2 weeks ago,runs perfect.i replaced my whole pcv system and whole cooling system as well.im in california and she passed smog test already too.ready for the road.thanks again.
no problem, thanks for the comment. Good luck with it.
Great Video. Cheers heaps mate. My Mechanic does not want to do that job anymore because he thinks its not worth it, because he found debris in some oil feed ports.
Thanks for watching
Thanks again! Your videos were very helpful. Everything's running good but it looks like my vanos units need new seals since the engine sounds slightly like a diesel and there's also a slight rattle on the start up
Amazing Job! Thank you so much for taking your time to film those videos. Very helpful, detail oriented videos.
+tim manusov i got the same engine and ive been reading and looking at videos and forums every were. one thing they said and makes sense is to remove again after you finish the job the lower oil pan and change oil filter again after about 100 miles youll will see more guide pieces in the pick up screen and or oil filter. if you dont you risk blowing a bottom end bearing.
+rey0176 I already put 2k miles , everything's fine.
wont hurt to check it.
+rey0176 true. But I did a few things that not everyone else does , I took apart the oil pump and cleaned all of the guide debris, I also took compressed air and blew all the ones that were stuck in the oil channels running down the engine. If it didn't clog up it 2,500 miles - I'm guessing the engine is good. I am doing an oil change in 500 , so I'll double check. Thanks for the advice.
cool.. is there a adjustment on the oil pump chain.? they all have alot of slack on that chain and ive seen other older v8 models were they adjust the slack it caused oil psi to drop.
Really helped to get some details of the way
+tim manusov Hi Tim, great to hear some positive feedback. From 1 of the 500 that viewed it so far. I`m sure that others we`re helped as well. This BMW has been doing well, it did end up needing the spark plug boots replaced as well. Because of the previously leaking valve covers had several of the spark plug holes filled with oil, which damaged them. And caused a cyl 1 miss under hard accel. Good luck with it.
+Auto Dr+ I'll let you know when mine fires up :)
tim manusov Great. Oh, did your reversing rail skin come off as well?
+Auto Dr+ my u shaped guide scattered after I put a new tensioner in. I only have 136k miles on my 2003 540 m sport. I love that thing
Sounds like what they do alright. Be sure and clean out the oil pump pick-up sump. The plastic will be in it causing a blockage. And metal particles in the oil filter cartridge as well.
The cam slips when you remove the cam block on passenger side intake cam...is it normal or is the the bolt bad ??
Hi, I'm about to tackle this job was hoping you could help I see its been a while since this was posted. Do you remember the torque values for timing guides and camshaft tensioners and oiling rails?
Thanks Dan
It's all in 1 of the 8 or 10 videos of this job. Mouse over the white (l) on video to see the next section of videos. Thanks for watching.
I have completed my timing, but now I am getting knock sensor bank 3,4 error? Any help would be appreciated!
This video is about timing chain procedures on a 4.4l engine. Knock sensor issues, while common are a different problem entirely. You would have to know the exact codes, and what they are referencing, that the problem is. And can range from bad sensors, bad connections, (ie wiring corrosion, at connectors, to replacing the sensors, installed at the exact same angle in-which they were removed from) to bad gas, low octane, or carbon build-up in the cylinders, to pecking, damaged rocker arms, or any consistent engine noise at a given rpm range. Depending on the codes given, even the vanos solenoids, could be a consideration, provided the proper weight, type of oil, and condition of the oil are considered. Thanks for watching
Can you please show us in any of your video that How to replace exhaust manifold gaskets? Thanks
Do not have, on the BMW series. Thanks for watching.
@@AutoDrdiy Thanks for your reply.
When I was reinstalling the VANOS unit onto the camshaft, the VANOS hub came out and rotated quite a bit. Every video I've seen about rebuilding the VANOS says to make sure to mark where the hub and the unit meet to ensure they're reassembled correctly. I can't seem to find any literature on how to reassemble if you don't know the original position of the hub relative to the unit. Do you have any advice or tips for correcting this mistake? Thank you again for your fantastic videos.
I would just buy a reman unit, and it will be set already. Thanks is for watching.
@@AutoDrdiy I attempted to reassemble it based on some photos I had taken before I pulled the unit off the camshaft, and I believe it's close to the original spot. If it were off by one or two helical gears, does it make a difference? We rotate the hub anyway to get continuity, so is it a matter of being in the right section? Not sure how to better phrase that question. Or is the fact that the hub popped out so easily a sign it needs to be rebuilt? I've sourced a reman unit but they're more than $400, which is outside my budget. Thanks again.
@@andig28 Not sure about it being out. But the it is so sensitive to it being off time, and the fact what it would do to the valves, even if doesn't hit them, rolling ut over, it may when the computer advances it. And if it fell apart, someone was prob in there and it wasn't right anyway. Also, I never had much luck with rebuilding them, as they go bad soon after. And the reman units aren't pristine, but will last longer, (usually) than a kit will. Thanks for watching.
@@AutoDrdiy Okay, thanks for the advice. I'll do some more research but it seems like getting remanufactured units is the more cost effectively reliable way to go.
Hey, nice job with the videos! But unfortunately i have a question that i can't find the answer on the internet... :/
so about the lower timing case cover... i lost somewhere a bolt that goes in to that water pump area and i can't find part number or at least the thread specs so i could just match it somewhere. Maybe you could help me out with it? I would really appreciate that ;)
A BMW dealership will have a break down of that area on file, but you will have to know exactly which bolt you`re missing. Or call around to an import junk yard and see if they have a core engine that you can take parts off of.
+Auto Dr diy Thanks, well dealership couldn't find any info on that bolt but bimmerfest forum helped me out with a simple solution. If any one will encounter with this problem i got the solution on this thread www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=917007
P.S thumbs up for the videos :)
Thanks, usually the service people in the back of the dealership will have a ton of bolts, clips, connectors, just laying around. They been through it all already.
Sir I follow your video and did the timing. Car runs, but getting the both cam shaft position sensor error... please any advise...
You can put timing alignment tools back in place, and verify location of each cams target plate. But, more than likely, you left slack in the chain, when setting up vanos with volt meter, and didnt verify their position, a second time, correctly. If vanos timing is off, the entire process would have to be repeated, correctly, thanks for watching
@@AutoDrdiy Sir I need to open it back. When I ZipTie do I need to leave it before putting the timing chain? When I cut the zip tied chain slack? Please let me know... Thanks
@@Shas4Ever Yes, you will need to open it back up. This is why every action on timing has to be followed carefully, and then rechecked, before putting it back together. Remove the fan clutch and shroud. I would then remove the head covers, remove the oil lines. Roll crank at direction of normal rotation, to TDC on #1 cyl, just as before, insert crank timing pin. Remove chain tensioner plunger from upper cover, then remove both upper chain covers. Remove both sensor gear plates, (left threads). Be sure to hold cams with wrench, on cams, while loosening torx bolts. Slacken both ex sprocket bolts 1/2 turn, then both intake cam bolts 1/2 turn. Align special tool blocks to back of cams, make sure they are flat against head. Or you will be doing it again. Install special tool against chain tensioner rail, and screw down to tensioner rail, just enough to take up slack in chain, for now. No loading chain yet. Attach special tool to cyl 5-8 vanos unit, and move to counter-clockwise stop, apply about 40 Nm. Attach ohm meter to any of the 3 brass pins on vanos unit, and ground other lead on engine. And verify it's at -0- ohms. If not, vanos is not at full left stop, and it should be rotated back and forth with special tool till it is at -0- ohms. Once 0 is reached, snug torx bolt down to 15 Nm, then loosen 1/4 turn. Turn ex spocket bolt as well to 15 Nm, then loosen 1/4 turn. Do the same exact thing for bank 1-4. To its left hand stop and -0- ohms. Now turn screw, in special tool, against tensioner rail, to about 0.8 Nm. (There should be moderate thumb pressure being applied to tensioner rail.) From screw. Once again, with ohm meter installed, cyl 5-8 bank, install special tool to vanos unit and turn to left hand stop at 40 Nm. Hold cam with wrench, and tighten int cam bolt down to 110 Nm. Left threads. Tighten ex sprocket to 125 Nm. Do cyl 1-4 bank cams the exact same way. Install cam sensor plate, on bank 1 intake cam. Run retainer nut down just touching sensor plate, install cam sensor alignment special tool for bank 1, and align it to the sensor plate. Hold cam, tighten retainer nut to 40 Nm. Do bank 2, the exact same way. Remove all special tools, except the chain tensioner tool. Cams may jump as tools are removed, but is normal. Rotate engine in normal direction, by hand, until TDC on #1 cyl is reached again. Watch cams bank 1 for both front lobes facing up and inward at each other slightly. Reinstall all special tools, and check for -0- ohms on both vanos units, brass pin. And that the cam sensor plates are aligned. If ok, remove all special tools, install tensioner plunger, finished. If anything is not aligned automatically, with tools installed, after rotating engine, then the process will need to be repeated, from step 1. That means no helping vanos reach 0 ohms by turning one slightly, close dont count. Re do it. I would even be inclined to remove the tools again, and rotate engine, reinstall, and check ohms again, for a problem one. Thanks for watching.
@@AutoDrdiy God Bless you for such a great detailed comment.
@@AutoDrdiy last question: I don't have pins on my sprockets? How do I check ohms now? Thanks