Thank you so much for these tutorials Jim. I'm a few weeks into my first one, a 77 Royale. I would definitely have popped my windshield if I didn't watch this.
I notice you don't use a plate inside the bottom of the bogie mount to lift the bogies sooner and not stress the shock absorbers. Do you not recommend using the plate? or is it because of the work you are planning on doing the plate is not needed.
The bogie bar is a good idea for sure. Another option (that I use) is to let a bunch of the air out of the bogie. This will release a lot of pressure from the shocks. Make sure to place your lifting device under first or you may not have enough room after letting the air out!
I was told to use Harbor Freight pry bars under the swingarms (between the pivot point and the jack point) to prevent them from dropping too much and stressing the bag.
Is there any risk of damaging the windshield if you only want to lift the front end up. This of course raising it from the center of the crossmember so no twist is induced?
There is no need to lift the rear, If you just want to lift the front by the center cross member. I think he was focusing on the best practice if you want to lift the entire RV.
The answer is no. When changing a flat front tire, one would lift from the lower control arm to get the tire just off of the ground. I do carry two jacks with me. One little floor jack to get the suspension up enough to get the stronger bottle jack in a position where it can do the lifting. A base for the jack is needed too, unless you are parked on concrete. Another good tip for any vehicle is carry a compressor so you can get it up enough for a jack to get under a good jacking point, or even drive the vehicle to a safe place for repairs. It’s neither safe or enjoyable to work on the edge of a roadway.
could you talk about wheel alignment, more about adjusting camber and caster. There is lots of talk about because of newer tires, not bias ply, that its different then what the book says. Apparently you need more positive caster? any truth to this?
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Thank you so much for these tutorials Jim. I'm a few weeks into my first one, a 77 Royale. I would definitely have popped my windshield if I didn't watch this.
How many tons is jack stands rated for?
You are a legend Jim Bounds
Thank you. I will follow this process.
Why doesn't the windshield pop out when you go over rough terrain. I'm sure it gets a lot of twisting.
Good to know, I’m making note of this
I still want one
I notice you don't use a plate inside the bottom of the bogie mount to lift the bogies sooner and not stress the shock absorbers. Do you not recommend using the plate? or is it because of the work you are planning on doing the plate is not needed.
The bogie bar is a good idea for sure. Another option (that I use) is to let a bunch of the air out of the bogie. This will release a lot of pressure from the shocks. Make sure to place your lifting device under first or you may not have enough room after letting the air out!
I was told to use Harbor Freight pry bars under the swingarms (between the pivot point and the jack point) to prevent them from dropping too much and stressing the bag.
There's all sorts of "helpers" folks come up with. If it works for you super. It's showing the concept to those that may never know this.
How about a video on how to replace headliner without tearing out the whole interior!
Thankyou Jim .I want to sale my gmc
Is there any risk of damaging the windshield if you only want to lift the front end up. This of course raising it from the center of the crossmember so no twist is induced?
There is no need to lift the rear, If you just want to lift the front by the center cross member. I think he was focusing on the best practice if you want to lift the entire RV.
No troubles. Wow, sorry for the delay!
so if you have a flat on the front you have to lift the rear first to change out a front tire
The answer is no. When changing a flat front tire, one would lift from the lower control arm to get the tire just off of the ground. I do carry two jacks with me. One little floor jack to get the suspension up enough to get the stronger bottle jack in a position where it can do the lifting.
A base for the jack is needed too, unless you are parked on concrete. Another good tip for any vehicle is carry a compressor so you can get it up enough for a jack to get under a good jacking point, or even drive the vehicle to a safe place for repairs. It’s neither safe or enjoyable to work on the edge of a roadway.
could you talk about wheel alignment, more about adjusting camber and caster. There is lots of talk about because of newer tires, not bias ply, that its different then what the book says. Apparently you need more positive caster? any truth to this?
I did a video on alignment, if you could look at that and let me know if it answers your question....if not I'll do one. Lemme know
I was very surprised at how much of the radiator was exposed below the bumper.
Very useful for owners or tow truck drivers who think the jacking point at the front is the radiator core support. No!
Has happened. Keep an eye out
Hey Jim what about using ramps on front than lift the rear?
If the wheels are on and the suspension is active ok. The body must be allowed to twist for the rear
How common was it to have two doors in a GMC ?
Actually, three "doors", if you count the engine covers! Always one entry door.
@@TheJeffShadowShow my 75 has 2 doors plus the engines would make 4.