Citroen Berlingo B9 Engine Removal
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- The process of removing the engine, and generally removing as many front end components from my written off 2011 Citroen Berlingo 1.6 HDi.
Given i have removed more than what was necessary for just an engine removal process, you can decide what you may not need to remove if doing a similar job. This will hopefully give an overview of how the various parts come off.
For any questions ask in the comments or alternatively
PC2CV
0:00 Introduction
0:20 Lifting front end
1:20 DPF / Catalytic Converter Removal
7:34 Turbo Removal
9:50 Battery Removal
10:06 Fuse box removal
14:10 Battery tray removal
16:25 Reverse switch disconnection
17:00 Clutch slave cylinder
17:38 Earth cable
17:50 Heater matrix hoses
18:18 Gear linkage cables
19:52 Gearbox oil
20:22 Fuel Filter
20:46 Front suspension
23:34 Driveshaft clamp
24:55 Brake servo vacuum line
25:13 Scuttle panel and wipers
30:41 Front struts
31:26 Lower radiator support bar
32:10 Bonnet
32:20 Lower rear engine mount
33:10 Subframe
40:40 Attaching lifting chain
41:19 Unbolting engine mounts
42:48 Engine removal
43:48 Gearbox removal 
Авто/Мото
This is extraordinary. You have a real knack for not only mechanical disassembly, but also being able to explain what you are doing. Once again, many thanks!
Thanks for the comment.
you are doing a good job and a good video...my berlingoXTR is the same as the one you are disassembling, the only difference between the 2 vehicles is that my berlingo is new and that one is worn out...regards
Thanks for the comment,
Damaged beyond repair but i would not describe the engine or gearbox worn out, before the crash it had the potential to do a lot more miles. The new berlingos especially in higher specs are superb to drive.
that's right my friend, the new berlingos are very good as well as my car...very modern, well equipped and work very well...greetings from Spain and thanks for the video.you do a great job...thank you friend.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Nice vedio
Excellent video (and very useful)! Impact wrench vs breaker bar, which one is better to avoid the possibility of breaking loose the captive nut?
Hi there, thanks for the comment.
Ordinarily the impact wrench is the best for stubborn bolts, if the captive nut had a good dose of wd40 or oil around it and left overnight it would definitely help, wire brushing the threads of the bolt that are behind the nut would also help it spin off easier. Breaker bars ive tried in the past expecting them to be easier on the captive nut but the bolt will still unthread to the same rusty patch of threads and require more torque than the captive element can hold against. On the plus side they can be replaced thanks to the hole to reach them, on the likes of the 406 it was necessary to cut the chassis leg open to get at the nut and weld the area back up. Copper grease is definitely useful for reassembly.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the explanation! All the best!
How long did this take you in total? I am looking for a new engine in my partner van and wanted rough guide on time?
I was not really working to a schedule, i parked this berlingo on axle stands and just tackled it a few hours in the evening after work. Ive had engines out in less than a day, this isnt too bad a one to remove.
As im not a mechanic by trade i dont really record the time jobs take.
They say bmw is hard to work on hhhh I'm doing them like a piece of cake .yet I find this crazy
Its all down to what your used to i suppose