I typically just lay under my shitbox and exert all the strength in my body to force these two together while my hands go numb from squeezing so hard and my bodily convulsions rattle every speck of dust and dirt off the bottom of my car and into my eyes face and mouth
Brake flare tool and a caulk gun. So simple and works better than any fancy method I've tried. Just a little grease on the fitting. Don't even have to heat it up.
@osmacar you can spit on it. Just something to get over the first hump.after that it's good. You can do it dry as well just gotta squeeze a little harder and risk a kink.
You have no idea how much better the hot water method is. It's safer for the line, it's heating even front inside and outside, no risk of overheating the line and making it brittle. No second guessing is it hot enough. Just a few moments in boling water put it on and done.
I used this technique to fix seat adjustment cables in BMWS. The service bulletin said to remove a motor so you could pull the core of the cable out then cut an inch out of it use fuel line and 2 hose clamps. The motors were hard to get out and one day I used the heat gun to pull it out of the crimp fitting then pulled the core out and cut it reinstall the core heat the cable and push it back in. Turns a 2 hour job into a 15 minute one.
@@williamvaughan1218 out of genuine curiosity, how do you make money by turning a 2 hour job into a 15 minute one? Is it by charging for a 2 hour job anyway or by getting a small job out of the way so you can get more work done?
@@charliesimpson3658 as a mechanic that works on flag labor ie per job not hourly or you work for yourself many times you find yourself working but not making any money. Either you don't have paying jobs and your doing equipment maintenance or you have a diagnostic job that you couldn't possibly charge the amount of time you have into it to the customer but you just haft to figure it out or fail this all accumulates into what is called unbillable hours. I don't consider myself making money unless I can complete the job under the time the job hours prescribe. That's the only way a mechanic can profit considering all the time working those unbillable hours. So doing the repair correctly and with quality in under the prescribed time is the way to make money. It all averages out.
Just recently explaining what a barrbed fitting was. From auto mechanics, to water irrigation even in discharge condensation lines of HVAC. This fitting has multiples of applications. Good point you brought across @the 340°f temp. Much appreciation in the evaluation on which you placed said such temperature....
I had to do some fuel lines like this, but I only had a hair dryer and I only replaced the fitting on one end so I just did it under the car lol. Sometimes those dumb things I struggled with so much when I was younger are just so funny today.
A guy working at a Napa store told me I needed the fancy tool to install the fitting and that there was no other way to do it. I installed it with a hair dryer underneath a car.
I make the line repairs using boiling water from the microwave. Really works best where you can’t use a heat gun on fuel lines that are still attached to the fuel system.
I caution you, it is unwise to mix the use of kitchen tools with garage tools. There have been fatalities from this practice before. Respect the hazmat. Be safe.
Ford aerostar had this shit. And I'm sure many others. Frickin repair kit says to stick ends in boiling water. It works. Cause you don't want that heat gun anyplace near the fuel line being repaired on the car. Don't blow yourself out from under your car. I guess this is ok for off the car repairs.
Nice ive never heard that. Years ago as an apprintice, my mentor was brazing an oil dipstick on an Areostar and when the cranckcase lit off, blew both rocker covers off, front amd rear main seals. A lot of smoke🎉
It's not rocket science to know that you dip plastic hoses into boiling water to fit them. I shudder the think how complicated a setup this dude would create to fit an end on a garden hose 😅
I making that fuel line. Cooper Standard extrusion plant. the print says Caution Fuel Not Repairable Loperm 3500K ETFE fomoco 11/02/20 09:26 P215 omega symbol. this 3500k tubing was made for Ford(fomoco), with the time being 9 in the morning I vary well may have made this tube. A fun fact 3500K has a conductive inside layer meaning that with a ohm meter you should get almost no resistance, it has 3 different layers of material that makes up the tube. kind of off subject but I had to say it.
I saw a vid where a guy replumbed a British car with rusted lines. The whole system used banjo fittings at every point. Before internet it was impossible to find a supplier for the fittings and crush washers.
Rub some stinging nettle on your hurting areas. It reduces that specific kind of pain/inflammation. It stings a little, but the pain relief is unbelievable. The only caveat is if you are allergic to bee stings. The chemistry is similar, so consider that.
On another video, a fella used a flaring tool to hold the hose, and a caulking gun to push the fitting in... A brilliant and possible way if you ever need to do this...
@@dcgo44r it depends on the plastic. Any Themo setting plastic will be fine unless you overheat it, at which point it starts to break down and all bets are off. Other plastics, silicon and natural rubber....no
I do something similar, but I use my brake flare tool to hold the line, I lubricate the barbed fitting before pressing it in, and I use a 5. 5 mm quarter inch socket on an extension with the heat gun, to flare the line slightly so I can insert the barbed fitting easier
pretty sure it says not to heat it up to install. at least the stuff we use at work. have to use a tool to exspand the end and quickly shove the end on and wait for it to shrink tight
@@isaackvasager9957 no not at all buddy but with the product we use at the dealership in the warning section it states do not heat, heating product can cause failure. I'm not denying your claim at all, all I said was what was said in the warning section
Used everywhere in the heavy duty truck industry. You need to leave the heatgun on the line, without spinning the gun, while you insert the fittings. This has been used for at least 20 years.
Heat is what I would have used provided a test fitting proved the tubing shrank back to its original or near original size and made a leak free connection. But knowing the temperature provided you have an adjustable temp heat gun or infrared thermometer to ascertain the correct temp is great to know.
Whenever I saw these I would grumble and slide a piece of line over it with like 6 clamps. It’s just my personal vehicles no somebody else’s but now I know how to do it thank you
Better trick. And I've done the heat before. This works better. Use the brake line flare tool. Just part that clamps the line in. And a wood working clamp. It presses right on and you can do it on the car.
The fittings with the metal crimp ring are way easier to install. No heating needed. Put the ring on the line then shove the fitting on by hand. Crimp the ring and your done.
Yeah I saw that too. Very good idea, will have to try it out! Of course that method will only work with straight fittings though. You would need a fixture of some sort to hold the angle fittings square.
Works better and faster if you have two people. I did it the exact same way. But someone held the heat gun at 350 and I pushed it into the line. Worked fast and great. 👍
You cant get it too hot,,or its done. It will go brittle as soon as it cools. A few psi then could cause it to shatter or split. Another trick is to chill the barb fitting, and use a induction heating loop for preheating the tubing. Make sure to use Ancor Marine Grade heat shrink last step, for no seepers. The Ancor has extra adhesive inside of the shrink tube, when shrunk properly, this glue ooze's out the ends of the shrink tube and latches onto the surface it covers. Sealing insurance, Saltwater proof, oil and fuel proof, Extra high temp proof, high pressure at-the-fitting proof. Extra insurance for those incredibly hard to reach fittings.
If it’s a straight fitting, I’ll use my drill. Chuck up the fitting, or fixture to hold and spin the fitting. The friction of the fitting spinning into the line warms the nylon just enough to get the fitting in and seated. It seals perfectly. It’s limited to straight fittings though, but it makes for a quick and reliable repair.
Lol it's definitely a helpful hint and I've used this myself many times with many different types of pipe and sizes of pipe,. But the funniest part is when you say it's easy and your hand is shaking you're putting so much force l o l😂
We use lines like this for watering on our pheasant farm for the auto waterers. We have to disconnect them every fall and reinstall them every Spring. We use boiling water.
Did you try other temps or research the material? Just curious. Thanks for the tips. Busted my return hardline on the filter in my prelude yesterday. Wooo 🎉
This same "crappy" Nylon line abraded and sprayed gas in her engine compartment. I smelled it and repaired it before the Land Rover burned to the ground. Mis-alignment of dust shield was the cause, warranty changed the line. Stainless steel or steel are far better.
Is that hose your using ETFE 8x6 or another size? Reason I ask im trying to make a line for a Kawasaki, original cost $80 plus shipping, made yourself I can imagine $10.
A smidge of dielectric grease leaving thin layer on the barbs, and a torch paying very close attention to the nylon tubing. When its ready push! Get too hot ? Cut it off and start over😊
I use the hair dryer sprayed the plastic part with WD-40 my son held the hair dryer I pushed it in together on my fuel system on the car it was on top my fuel line
or you simply use the clamp that you already have for brake/fuel line, clamp the poly line and simply shove the fitting in hassle free every time no heat necessary
I've used "Help!" brand nylon fuel line repair kits. No joke, the instructions tell you to hold the nylon tubing in warm water to soften it 🤣🤣🤣. obviously you have to be careful with how you heat a line that has had fuel running through it and is still connected to the fuel pump, but hot water doesn't do shit.
It's not nylon. It clearly says on the side of it "PTFE". You should probably make that clear, so people don't actually try to use nylon tubing for pressurized fuel. It's also special tubing made for fuel, that's slightly conductive, as to not allow a static charge buildup.
Where do you find the 90° auto battery vent tube elbow fitting like these (2), can only find single entire tube assemblies for $$. instead of just the elbows for ¢¢\$. Old ends slipped over a proprietary 😖ac/Delco oval nipple extending from batt top, now all batt's have sm hole for fitting to press into 😩 just need to replace tube ends 😭🤬😵💫
Why would you bother replacing with the same stuff it just gets brittle cracks and causes leaks I've always just replaced it with rubber vacuum hose and never had an issue
call me old-fashioned, but I don't see what was wrong with metal fuel lines - apart from companies' profit margins apparently (the poor saps who live in areas where they salt the roads may feel differently)
![Megan Thee Stallion - Mamushi (feat. Yuki Chiba) [2024 London Performance]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pxTCJUuorKc/mqdefault.jpg)
I typically just lay under my shitbox and exert all the strength in my body to force these two together while my hands go numb from squeezing so hard and my bodily convulsions rattle every speck of dust and dirt off the bottom of my car and into my eyes face and mouth
This is the way.
In other words, the proper way😎
Don't forget the cramps in your neck while trying hold your head up of the rocky ground lol
@sNazy 777 thank you😂 also forgot about the gas still in the line running up your sleeve making you a little hesitant to light that next smoke
Pro tip
At 350° It "easily" slides over the barbs.... as you're pushing so hard your hands are shaking like an earthquake. I feel ya, brother!
Brake flare tool and a caulk gun. So simple and works better than any fancy method I've tried. Just a little grease on the fitting. Don't even have to heat it up.
@@zacharybsmith1987 need a video on this. Please.
@@zacharybsmith1987 greasing a friction fit...
@osmacar you can spit on it. Just something to get over the first hump.after that it's good. You can do it dry as well just gotta squeeze a little harder and risk a kink.
@Paul Bumgarner ruclips.net/user/shortsd-ujDEPuRsE?feature=share
Guy does it kind of sloppy but you get the idea.
Dip It in boiling water for a minute or si and then install the fitting
@@Mr_Instant_erection boiling water is plenty hot enough. That how I do it. This guy didn’t actually get that tubing to 350
@@dwolf97 ohh.. oops
The boiling point for water is 212° prob hot enough.
@@Mr_Instant_erection yes it would. Done it before. It's actually the recommended way.
You have no idea how much better the hot water method is. It's safer for the line, it's heating even front inside and outside, no risk of overheating the line and making it brittle. No second guessing is it hot enough.
Just a few moments in boling water put it on and done.
I used this technique to fix seat adjustment cables in BMWS. The service bulletin said to remove a motor so you could pull the core of the cable out then cut an inch out of it use fuel line and 2 hose clamps. The motors were hard to get out and one day I used the heat gun to pull it out of the crimp fitting then pulled the core out and cut it reinstall the core heat the cable and push it back in. Turns a 2 hour job into a 15 minute one.
Great tip!
And that's how you make money!
@@williamvaughan1218 out of genuine curiosity, how do you make money by turning a 2 hour job into a 15 minute one? Is it by charging for a 2 hour job anyway or by getting a small job out of the way so you can get more work done?
@@charliesimpson3658 as a mechanic that works on flag labor ie per job not hourly or you work for yourself many times you find yourself working but not making any money. Either you don't have paying jobs and your doing equipment maintenance or you have a diagnostic job that you couldn't possibly charge the amount of time you have into it to the customer but you just haft to figure it out or fail this all accumulates into what is called unbillable hours. I don't consider myself making money unless I can complete the job under the time the job hours prescribe. That's the only way a mechanic can profit considering all the time working those unbillable hours. So doing the repair correctly and with quality in under the prescribed time is the way to make money. It all averages out.
We do the same on semi trucks. It puts up a fight no matter what but you are 100%
Just recently explaining what a barrbed fitting was.
From auto mechanics, to water irrigation even in discharge condensation lines of HVAC.
This fitting has multiples of applications. Good point you brought across @the 340°f temp.
Much appreciation in the evaluation on which you placed said such temperature....
Yep. That's how it's done. Been doing just this for years!!
The dorman kit is by far the easiest way to do this
I do this with pool hoses, but I don't have a fancy tempt display, so I go till a faint bit of smoke comes up.
Get a laser thermometer from HF. They have many uses. And ur cats will love the red dot too! 😁
I had to do some fuel lines like this, but I only had a hair dryer and I only replaced the fitting on one end so I just did it under the car lol. Sometimes those dumb things I struggled with so much when I was younger are just so funny today.
A guy working at a Napa store told me I needed the fancy tool to install the fitting and that there was no other way to do it. I installed it with a hair dryer underneath a car.
Idk how other people do it, but that way when the nylon cools and the molecules condense again, it likely creates one kickass seal
I make the line repairs using boiling water from the microwave. Really works best where you can’t use a heat gun on fuel lines that are still attached to the fuel system.
Also works great on garden hoses when installing a new fitting. I use a creme brûlée torch though 😂
I caution you, it is unwise to mix the use of kitchen tools with garage tools. There have been fatalities from this practice before. Respect the hazmat. Be safe.
Put the end in boiling water works better than heating and doesn't leave it brittle from pulling out the oils in it
Coolant at 50 50 at 225 in a deep fryer. Works for lots of stuff. Coolant acts as a lubricant for the penatration.....
That is scuffed as shit but I think that genius
I’ve always heated them up, I thought everyone did it?
great way to improvise a gas chamber
@@Alex-X854 slava russia. Ukraine is gay🇷🇺
@@maxmoritz5065 nah man says the killers of children
Ford aerostar had this shit. And I'm sure many others. Frickin repair kit says to stick ends in boiling water. It works. Cause you don't want that heat gun anyplace near the fuel line being repaired on the car. Don't blow yourself out from under your car. I guess this is ok for off the car repairs.
Nice ive never heard that. Years ago as an apprintice, my mentor was brazing an oil dipstick on an Areostar and when the cranckcase lit off, blew both rocker covers off, front amd rear main seals. A lot of smoke🎉
I like this!
It's not rocket science to know that you dip plastic hoses into boiling water to fit them. I shudder the think how complicated a setup this dude would create to fit an end on a garden hose 😅
Great plan !
I use the line holding tool from my flaring kit in a vise. Put rag on the palm of my had and push it in cold.
I making that fuel line. Cooper Standard extrusion plant. the print says Caution Fuel Not Repairable Loperm 3500K ETFE fomoco 11/02/20 09:26 P215 omega symbol. this 3500k tubing was made for Ford(fomoco), with the time being 9 in the morning I vary well may have made this tube. A fun fact 3500K has a conductive inside layer meaning that with a ohm meter you should get almost no resistance, it has 3 different layers of material that makes up the tube. kind of off subject but I had to say it.
I saw a vid where a guy replumbed a British car with rusted lines. The whole system used banjo fittings at every point. Before internet it was impossible to find a supplier for the fittings and crush washers.
As somebody with rheumatoid arthritis, there's no *way* I'd be able to apply that much pressure to the fitting to get it onto the tube.
You got that right. Same here.
Rub some stinging nettle on your hurting areas. It reduces that specific kind of pain/inflammation. It stings a little, but the pain relief is unbelievable. The only caveat is if you are allergic to bee stings. The chemistry is similar, so consider that.
On another video, a fella used a flaring tool to hold the hose, and a caulking gun to push the fitting in... A brilliant and possible way if you ever need to do this...
Lube both ends with alcohol. It will help the tubing slide and will evaporate quickly with no residue like spit or grease would leave.
Will that stuff get harder where it was heated thereby making it more susceptible to breaking at that point once cooled?
Not on most plastic! Definitely not on nylon!
@@dcgo44r it depends on the plastic. Any Themo setting plastic will be fine unless you overheat it, at which point it starts to break down and all bets are off. Other plastics, silicon and natural rubber....no
U do that very nice even though everyone hates plastic fuel lines
I usually use an open flame torch and melt it
Yes I did it with a cigarette lighter the one time I had to do it. Surprisingly it’s still working like two years later👍
Cool 😎 tip Thanks 😊
I do something similar, but I use my brake flare tool to hold the line, I lubricate the barbed fitting before pressing it in, and I use a 5. 5 mm quarter inch socket on an extension with the heat gun, to flare the line slightly so I can insert the barbed fitting easier
pretty sure it says not to heat it up to install. at least the stuff we use at work. have to use a tool to exspand the end and quickly shove the end on and wait for it to shrink tight
100% says do not heat. Heating causes failure😂😂😂😂
@@outsidebuffalo716 It literally gets installed in an engine bay.
@@isaackvasager9957 read the products info sheet before you decide you wanna be a keyboard warrior
@@outsidebuffalo716 are you denying that it gets installed in engine bays? Because that's the only claim I made, genius.
@@isaackvasager9957 no not at all buddy but with the product we use at the dealership in the warning section it states do not heat, heating product can cause failure. I'm not denying your claim at all, all I said was what was said in the warning section
Used everywhere in the heavy duty truck industry. You need to leave the heatgun on the line, without spinning the gun, while you insert the fittings.
This has been used for at least 20 years.
Good content, thanks man!
Heat is what I would have used provided a test fitting proved the tubing shrank back to its original or near original size and made a leak free connection. But knowing the temperature provided you have an adjustable temp heat gun or infrared thermometer to ascertain the correct temp is great to know.
That’s something I’ll never have to do!🤔
Whenever I saw these I would grumble and slide a piece of line over it with like 6 clamps. It’s just my personal vehicles no somebody else’s but now I know how to do it thank you
Better trick. And I've done the heat before. This works better. Use the brake line flare tool. Just part that clamps the line in. And a wood working clamp. It presses right on and you can do it on the car.
Thank you for showing us YOUR way..I don't know what we would have done without you!
Used to do this 40 years ago when replacing fuel lines on snowmobiles.
The fittings with the metal crimp ring are way easier to install. No heating needed. Put the ring on the line then shove the fitting on by hand. Crimp the ring and your done.
Tubing flaring vise block, stick it in a caulking gun, ratchet the gun and hold it straight. It pushes the fitting into the line without heat.
Yeah I saw that too. Very good idea, will have to try it out! Of course that method will only work with straight fittings though. You would need a fixture of some sort to hold the angle fittings square.
Works better and faster if you have two people. I did it the exact same way. But someone held the heat gun at 350 and I pushed it into the line. Worked fast and great. 👍
I had a hell of a time with mine I had to use a brass barb to rubber fuel line so I could heat the brass and insert it into the nylon hose.
You cant get it too hot,,or its done. It will go brittle as soon as it cools. A few psi then could cause it to shatter or split. Another trick is to chill the barb fitting, and use a induction heating loop for preheating the tubing. Make sure to use Ancor Marine Grade heat shrink last step, for no seepers. The Ancor has extra adhesive inside of the shrink tube, when shrunk properly, this glue ooze's out the ends of the shrink tube and latches onto the surface it covers. Sealing insurance, Saltwater proof, oil and fuel proof, Extra high temp proof, high pressure at-the-fitting proof. Extra insurance for those incredibly hard to reach fittings.
Great tip!
Sure, this works great, until you're doing a fuel line with fuel still in it. I'll just reach for the FMSI tool kit. 😂
Thank you that’ll help I will make a set up
Easily? That tube still putting up a fight, man's hand is shaking
Insert (pun intended) favorite "your mom/sister/wife/daughter joke"
Thank god bro... been looking for this fix all morning. 😂
What is the name of that fitting? SUPER IMPORTANT I FIGURE IT OUT SOON!!!
If it’s a straight fitting, I’ll use my drill. Chuck up the fitting, or fixture to hold and spin the fitting. The friction of the fitting spinning into the line warms the nylon just enough to get the fitting in and seated. It seals perfectly. It’s limited to straight fittings though, but it makes for a quick and reliable repair.
Interesting method and the logic is solid
Lol it's definitely a helpful hint and I've used this myself many times with many different types of pipe and sizes of pipe,. But the funniest part is when you say it's easy and your hand is shaking you're putting so much force l o l😂
That really has the potential to over heat the tubing.
IDK what material it's made of, but a lot of plastics become fluid below 350 degrees.
Dorman 800-301 fuel line repair tool. pushes those togeather in seconds
We use lines like this for watering on our pheasant farm for the auto waterers. We have to disconnect them every fall and reinstall them every Spring. We use boiling water.
I do the same thing with coolant hoses in the winter time.
I use hot water.. just under boiling
Just use the tool for installing the ends it takes 2 seconds and you get a much better seal.
I've always dipped it in a cup of boiling water and it works real good
Hot tap water works great too!!!
Always used a deep fryer and oil to do mine. Worked like a dream. Just use gloves to keep hands cool.
Never knew one could use barbed fittings on pressurized fuel lines
Did you try other temps or research the material? Just curious. Thanks for the tips. Busted my return hardline on the filter in my prelude yesterday. Wooo 🎉
I tried many different Temps in 10 degree increments and this seemed to be the goldilocks temperature
This same "crappy" Nylon line abraded and sprayed gas in her engine compartment. I smelled it and repaired it before the Land Rover burned to the ground. Mis-alignment of dust shield was the cause, warranty changed the line. Stainless steel or steel are far better.
you can also just boil or near boil some water, dip it in there for a minute, then it slides in nice and easy. In a jam, Dunkin Donuts coffee....
That's tefzel. Teflon bonded to nylon. I got to know the guy who invented it. Pretty awesome stuff.
I use a Bic lighter.
Works every time but the first 12 or so!!!😂😂
Is that hose your using ETFE 8x6 or another size? Reason I ask im trying to make a line for a Kawasaki, original cost $80 plus shipping, made yourself I can imagine $10.
A smidge of dielectric grease leaving thin layer on the barbs, and a torch paying very close attention to the nylon tubing. When its ready push! Get too hot ? Cut it off and start over😊
I would double up on that with some heat shrink and the tiniest hose clamp I could find, or a crimp clamp
I use the hair dryer sprayed the plastic part with WD-40 my son held the hair dryer I pushed it in together on my fuel system on the car it was on top my fuel line
maybe heat will cause the pastic age faster
or you simply use the clamp that you already have for brake/fuel line, clamp the poly line and simply shove the fitting in hassle free every time no heat necessary
wow thank u... it doesnt hurt the line?
We did this in a printer manufacturer for years
I've used "Help!" brand nylon fuel line repair kits. No joke, the instructions tell you to hold the nylon tubing in warm water to soften it 🤣🤣🤣. obviously you have to be careful with how you heat a line that has had fuel running through it and is still connected to the fuel pump, but hot water doesn't do shit.
What I do is grab a pair of needle nose and push them in and twist to flare the end of the tubing then push it in.
Doesn't this decrease the elasticity (thus squeeze) because you partly make it rubber fase?
It's not nylon. It clearly says on the side of it "PTFE". You should probably make that clear, so people don't actually try to use nylon tubing for pressurized fuel. It's also special tubing made for fuel, that's slightly conductive, as to not allow a static charge buildup.
I bet they probably do something similar at the factory
Does it compromise the Integrity of the tubing or when it cools down does it shrink and retain its strength
Cup of hot water does the same job. Even flicking a lighter flame over it will soften it enough to slip over.
Just need the tube and fitting? No gear clamps?
Where do you find the 90° auto battery vent tube elbow fitting like these (2), can only find single entire tube assemblies for $$. instead of just the elbows for ¢¢\$. Old ends slipped over a proprietary 😖ac/Delco oval nipple extending from batt top, now all batt's have sm hole for fitting to press into 😩 just need to replace tube ends 😭🤬😵💫
There's not need to go around the tube with the heater and if you're patient 70° is enough heat to make it soft and retain it's plastic memory.
In the amount of time to make this video... I would've already had the fitting installed with the kit they provide for such lines...
I wonder, although the screen says 340 F , what the tube actually melts at. This particular tube in question.
Softens *
My fast and easy way is buying the whole thing and that's it
It's easy, huh? 5 seconds in, I already need $600 worth of equipment. 😂
BIC lighter enters the chat
Heat 1" water pipe basically same process use hand propane torch heat inside the pipe 1st.
My line bends IMMEDIATELY! ive done everything I can think of
On our semi trucks we use airline compression fittings because we dare not have fire
Boiling water, and I always throw an oetiker clamp on for good measure.
Do you need a metal or plastic clamp to make that a "never coming off" fitting?
No the barbs hold the line just fine. The OEMs never use clamps on them.
So these won’t pop off? No need for clamps?
Boiling water or a conservatively used lighter. Vice and heat gun just overcomplicates things and takes far longer than necessary.
Nice ! But I would still get hurt 😂
Would it work on neoprene line's?
Why would you bother replacing with the same stuff it just gets brittle cracks and causes leaks I've always just replaced it with rubber vacuum hose and never had an issue
call me old-fashioned, but I don't see what was wrong with metal fuel lines - apart from companies' profit margins apparently
(the poor saps who live in areas where they salt the roads may feel differently)
Drip of oil on the tip, reduces the time of heating. yw.