Do yourselves a favor too; check the grounds on your engine block!!! About tore the rest of my hair out and washed this overland with 2 gallons of diesel and a road flare! Both wire harness mount bolts on the passenger side of the block removed, terminals sanded, rust converter sprayed and reinstalled everything. Jeep started strong first crank and I’m seeing 13.89 on the multimeter with engine running. Check all of your grounds….
THIS VIDEO SAVED ME A MASSIVE HEADACHE! Turns out the positive battery terminal (which i bought new) was bad because my alternator wasnt receiving the proper voltage. once i swapped the terminal, all life came back to the car. You're truly a life saver!
I think you have helped me find my issue that I have been scouring here to find the a better answer to why after a new battery and rebuilt alternator still getting the "Service Charging System" for my Impala. I had heard about this fusible link but had no idea where to look! This is start in the next direction! Thank you!! You are appreciated!!! Great short video!
Good video and nice troubleshooting task to add to your troubleshooting toolkit. One note, when you measure continuity with a VOM and get 0 OHMS, there us NO resistance. In fact, you want a closed circuit with little or no resistance in your fusible link and the connection between the B term on the alternator and the battery + post.
J Pol I’m having this exact problem replaced battery replaced alternator only needed that one fuse wasted about 500 dollars in the whole ordeal and I did all the work myself (paid 200 battery 190 for alternator)
That fusible link in my car blew but now I have to found what keeps blowing it. I wish there was a video on youtube about tracing the positive and negative battery terminals to the starter and transmission but doesn't seem super hard once I actually get my car back, maybe I'll get lucky and be able to see it visually myself
I don't know if you have a Harbor Freight near you or you can order it online but you can get a 12 volt short finder for around 15 to $30 remove the airbag relay and fuse plug the one in onto your battery turn over your key like you're going to start your engine and then it has another part start tracing your wires from underneath your hood and then once it starts beeping you have found your short take a marker and either mark your fuses where your wire where you find your short but the most important thing is to remove those pieces for the airbags because if you do not before you start with the short finder you'll blow your airbag system make sure you follow that it is in the instructions if you have any questions feel free to reach out
Usually they blow because they are old and have a bad ground or the glass fuses start to break down over time. Always start with the simple things first and diagnose your way down the list!
Good video but when the meter goes from 1 to 0 it means that there is NO resistance, the circuit is closed and current will flow through it. The 1 on the meter indicates infinite resistance, the circuit is open and no current will flow. Otherwise, thanks for the good info!
Actually the term he should be using is continuity. Means checking to see if there is a connection between 2 points. Also used for checked to see if a circuit is shorted to ground which would cause a fuse to blow. Resistance is for a load. Coils, heaters, motor windings etc. I am an AC guy so we have to check continuity constantly. Now if I can find the fusible link on my Cadillac I'll be estactic.
When the battery is bad .. the first thing you check is the alternater charge rate on load ... and id no charge check fuse ... and connections ... but ppl don't realise if the drive belt is loose/ too much slack also causes the alternater not to charge properly
At the beginning of the video your multimeter dial was rotated to the icon for testing diodes, it is not exactly the same as the ohm test option that you want. Instead of measuring ohms, it is measuring the tiny voltage drop across the two leads when a small voltage is applied by the meter. Check your multimeter manual for more detail, it is a setting only useful for testing diodes.
I 91 Toyota Land Cruiser having same problem so I’m going to effort chasing out that fuse able wire from the alternator to the battery I just need a place to start and your video gave me that so thank you posting that: I don’t give you a heads up on how it works out it’s going to be a few days as I am leaving troll trip commercial fishing it’s what I do... ;)
Hey Steve. thanks first! Anyway just a point of contension . It's not resistance you're seeing, it's continuity. The actual resistance should be close to zero ohms to have continuity, or a continuous connection from one point to another. thanks again man.
I appreciate the details, but using the wrong words when discussing electricity can get someone killed - no, seriously, it can. Please understand that every time you said RESISTANCE you were using exactly the opposite terminology - when the meter goes to zero, or nearly there, it is NO resistance, or you could say that there is CONDUCTIVITY, which is the correct terminology. Overall, a good video, bad verbal explanation of resistance vs. conductivity. NOTE: to those who also called Steve on this, but you said 'conduction', you were nearly correct, but conduction is more commonly used when discussing the conduction of heat.
So are the GM models such as the Malibu and Saturn aura and Pontiac G6 the problem I’m currently having is my car starts and runs fine until the battery drains it does this with old alternator and the new one and I also found my cooling fans are constantly running until the car shuts off from low battery or I turn off the switch they start up when the car starts I’m getting a battery light indicator on the dash and a P0662 code help thanks for any suggestions the car is a 2008 Saturn Aura 3.5 V6 basically a Malibu
You know what you are doing... I thought you may be able to answer my question. I am wondering about the fusable link as my alternator is not working. I used a multimeter and got continuity from alternator plug pins to the battery terminal connectors. Should that mean that the fusable link is intact? It wouldnt seem like that plug could handle the current put out by an alternator so I may be wrong
WELL a mechanic told me my alternator was draining the battery and now the battery was bad as well. Checked it myself and saw a fuse MAGICALLY BROKEN right besides the battery. Changed the fuse myself which was ($4) and the car had no problems anymore. They wanted ($700) for the "fix". I went to autozone to check the battery and alternator and they told me they were good.
Your video didn't show nothing. Im trying to find my fusible link so I can check it . I'm trying to see if that's why my battery light stays on and my gauges stopped working. The truck still runs, no turn signals tail lights or radio.
If your alternator is still charging with everything on and the range on a multimeter is between 13.40 14.20 then its not your alternator are battery check your grounds sometime the grounds on your car are truck are the problem
*2:00* Cable on the B post of the alternator, is that the negative? Because when you do the same test on the good alternator, you switch the + & - with that test.
Steve, non related question. In one of your older videos you did a hard lemonade i think. And in it you said it is easier just to do a sugar wash and add the lemonade at the end. How many concentrates did you use? and how much sugar did you use for he wash?
voltronsupreme I have a video on making wine coolers, I show the math for how many juice containers you'll need how much water. the sugar really depends on how strong you want it. turbo yeast will finish below 1.000. figure out what abv you want and add the sugar until you hit that of. I would start with at least 2kg / 4lbs of sugar
You didn't show the fix... Was it just the one wire, and you put an inline fuse in it, or did you buy another fusible link just like the old one? I have a '89' Celica GT that uses fusible links and for future reference just want to know my options... Thanks!
I replaced the whole wire. Most cars you can solder a new fusible link in the wire, but Jeep has the link fused to the metal plate that attaches to the fuse box so replacing the wire was the easiest choice. Cheers Dano!
@@steve45ca Thank you for the reply! On my 2010 Jeep compass my fusible link runs from the alt to the starter solenoid. Mine was burned in half so I just reconnected the the wire with a metal crimp clip I squeezed with pliers and wrapped in electrical tape and black duck tape. I didn't have shrink wrap and tried to avoid taking out the starter because it was a pita. The alt is charging now and seems to be functioning fine. Do you think what I did was okay?
Hi Steve. Thanks for the video. I'm in desperate need of advice... I hit the back of my positive terminal with a ratchet and it shorted something. I replaced my starter, alternator, and battery. Off the top of your head, would you have any suggestions of what I could have shorted in that process? Any specific fuses or relays to test? My car will not start, it clicks one time from the starter. When I pop the clutch, the car will run fine only until I turn some loads on. Then my battery light comes on, following abs lights, etc. I have heard that it could be my new alternator that's bad, but could something else be causing my drainage during as well as sitting over night?
wow... where to start.... if your battery is draining overnight you have a good short that will need to be tracked down. Hopefully you can find a friend who can help you find it, finding electrical shorts are very time consuming unless you can find a shop that specializes in vehicle electrical systems. Sorry I can't help you further. You could see if there is a video on how to check relays and test those first
Naw, that's excellent man. The reassurance is all I needed honestly. I'm really bad with electronics and will have a friend help me on Wednesday. Thanks again.
Brandon, I know it's been 7 months but did you get it figured out... I once had a bad ground connection at my battery post and my car could start, and run, but with what was basically the battery not being connected, I was running off my alt. (not good), and as soon as I would turn my lights on (put a load on it) the car would start dying out. I would try to restart it and get a click, then nothing. Turned out that my negative post cable which had one of those unscrew type quick-disconnects was not keeping the ground connection on the post. anyway, I took that off my neg. cable and connected it with just the factory connector and everything was fine. What really threw me off is I would disconnect the ground for a few seconds then connect it and it would start, but just until it started going haywire. So by disconnecting the neg cable I thought I was resetting the computer and that is why it would restart and that part really had me worried it was something more serious, when actually I was just loosening the quick connect then when I tightened it back up it was getting enough connection to start the car. Hard to explain, but a word of advise, be aware of those twist type quick connectors... It did last about 4 years though...
I think I may have a similar problem. I have an 82' Prelude that was garaged for 6+ months and the battery finally died. I tried to recharge it but it wouldn't charge so I bought a new one and as soon I attach the negative lead the main fuse (55a) blows. I've checked for any wires or grounds touching and haven't noticed anything out of place, etc. I've blown three fuses already and am stumped. I tried disconnecting the voltage regulator and the main fuse still blows. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
hi Steve, I just replaced bad alternator on my 2004 pt cruiser. battery good. went to start, nothing, no crank, no start, no clicking, no dash instruments, starter smoked. only wires touched were ones on alternator. wipers on continuously even in off position when key turned on. totally clueless what's going on now. any ideas?
Kristie Nordbye I think your pt cruiser needs an exorcism......lol that's a super bad short for sure. I'd see if there's a shop that specializes in electrical systems for vehicles.
quick question was the Alternator not charging at all? and i am having the same problem i changed the battery and Alternator twice but i think my fuse link is on the starter but the starter does start just no charging could it still be the link?
My fusible link runs from alt to starter as well. It was burned in half so I just reconnected it with a rigged crimp with pliers and wrapped in electrical tape and black duck tape. It's charging now and seems okay.
I had to replace mine on my toyota T100. I had weird issues with the grounding, while the fusible link was broken. Can you give me insight and some assurance that these are not symptoms of something worse. The positive terminal was connected but not the negative. I could touch the negative terminal to frame and it would get sparks. Why/how is the circuit being completed through the frame? Does this mean that there is a bare wire touching off where it shouldn't or just something weird about vehicle grounding the doesn't occur in other circuits? Or what am I not understanding.
If you have sparks when touching negative to frame you have a positive circuit touching ground somehow. Harnesses, block and chassis all tie into ground.
i have a big black wire coming from the back of the alternator screwed on does it go to positive or negative on battery? I have it on negitive and dash gauge for battery shows just a quarter way instead of half way. I put in new battery and the alt but something not right. 99 gmc jimmy.
120 amp fuse in my fusible link holder terminal piece has blown 4 times in the last 6 months. It's an extremely easy fix but now it's in the shop because the fuse blew twice in one day so I gave up. The mechanic told me to buy a new car hahah
You have a bad electrical ground somewhere that the shop hasn’t caught and it’s most likely the the alternator but without the car in front of me to test it I couldn’t say for sure but you definitely need to go to a different shop and go find an actual trained Technician!!!!
Open CCT is high resistance. 0 Ohms is NOT "showing resistance", it's showing a complete or closed CCT. The meter is literally reading zero resistance.
Literally the vid I been looking for the past 2 days been having charging problems and no start issues on my 7.3 and the fusible link that is on my glow plug relay and intake heater relay was chewed and burned .....replaced 2 alternators changed my IPR bc it got messed up and days of in the freezing mother effing the world ....hoping I fix my problem and my truck starts and runs like normal ...how did you fix the fusible link have seen other vids of deleting them and seen others just replace and solder another link in etc
My son had a spare Jeep Cherokee so we just grabbed the whole wiring harness for that bit in the video I just wanted to make sure I could pass electricity through the fusible link to make sure it wasn't broken and it worked great even after he sold it
Hi Steve (or anyone else), I've got a question for you. I tried that first test you did where you tested the resistance between the negative battery terminal and a spot on the body and im not getting a reading. What's that telling me?
is a fuseible link something that can come and go? I dont get a charge over 12 randomly . I say about one every 20 starts. Then it just starts to charge on its own. used meter to make sure.
If the fusible link is corroded bad enough its possible to could cause charging problems, however if you suspect the fusible links you should check them. Cheers!
on a 1999 caddy deville while driving the car heard a pop then the dash went out the car was lossing power made it home put in new battery and alt and it still shows 11.2 volts can any one help me out on this.?
@@steve45ca Thanks. Everyone I talked with and all research is 50/50. Found link wire and replaced. Pain in the ass!. I would recommend to anybody find a truck at a pull a part and take all wiring from alt,starter and battery if possible. Never want to do that again
So it’s not a ground, it’s not a fusible link Hell I don’t even think the wires are bad, but my alternator is brand new and it’s the third one I’ve bought so I know it’s not bad. I put a new pulley on it, new battery, ran my own ground wires, still can’t figure it out
Steve can you pls help me....i had replaced my alternator 7 times in my 2007 saturn aura and here i am with another low charge alternator...what is cause my perfect condition alternator that i only have every 7 months to go bad....i am replacing new alternators every couple of months i want to know what is causing my alternator to drain out
You've got a weird electrical issue that seems to keep the alternator constantly charging..... I haven't a clue what it could be though. They have mechanic forums for all cars, I'd try and find one and ask there. Cheers
You didn't show what cable you switched out that had the fusible link and more importantly, where you found it. Finding battery cables for the 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee is more difficult than finding a Hemi Cuda in a Barn. The complete harness is discontinued and impossible to find.
Do yourselves a favor too; check the grounds on your engine block!!! About tore the rest of my hair out and washed this overland with 2 gallons of diesel and a road flare! Both wire harness mount bolts on the passenger side of the block removed, terminals sanded, rust converter sprayed and reinstalled everything. Jeep started strong first crank and I’m seeing 13.89 on the multimeter with engine running. Check all of your grounds….
THIS VIDEO SAVED ME A MASSIVE HEADACHE! Turns out the positive battery terminal (which i bought new) was bad because my alternator wasnt receiving the proper voltage. once i swapped the terminal, all life came back to the car. You're truly a life saver!
I think you have helped me find my issue that I have been scouring here to find the a better answer to why after a new battery and rebuilt alternator still getting the "Service Charging System" for my Impala. I had heard about this fusible link but had no idea where to look! This is start in the next direction! Thank you!! You are appreciated!!! Great short video!
I hope you resolve the issue. Cheers!
Good video and nice troubleshooting task to add to your troubleshooting toolkit. One note, when you measure continuity with a VOM and get 0 OHMS, there us NO resistance. In fact, you want a closed circuit with little or no resistance in your fusible link and the connection between the B term on the alternator and the battery + post.
Rc xx DD
Thanks
I'm getting ready to try this on my dodge, just put new alternator on with new battery and still no charge so hopping this works, wish me luck
Yo did it work the fuse able link on yo dodge
@@CameronabeastThuglife yes it did, works great 👍
@@sickofliberals9403 I'm having the same issue I'm gonna try it to thanks
@@CameronabeastThuglife your welcome
Great tip. That's what we need more of....the unusual items that usually aren't the issue. Thanks.
J Pol I’m having this exact problem replaced battery replaced alternator only needed that one fuse wasted about 500 dollars in the whole ordeal and I did all the work myself (paid 200 battery 190 for alternator)
That fusible link in my car blew but now I have to found what keeps blowing it. I wish there was a video on youtube about tracing the positive and negative battery terminals to the starter and transmission but doesn't seem super hard once I actually get my car back, maybe I'll get lucky and be able to see it visually myself
I don't know if you have a Harbor Freight near you or you can order it online but you can get a 12 volt short finder for around 15 to $30 remove the airbag relay and fuse plug the one in onto your battery turn over your key like you're going to start your engine and then it has another part start tracing your wires from underneath your hood and then once it starts beeping you have found your short take a marker and either mark your fuses where your wire where you find your short but the most important thing is to remove those pieces for the airbags because if you do not before you start with the short finder you'll blow your airbag system make sure you follow that it is in the instructions if you have any questions feel free to reach out
Check this video out it might help you find your problem
ruclips.net/video/6xFo_oHFF48/видео.html
Usually they blow because they are old and have a bad ground or the glass fuses start to break down over time. Always start with the simple things first and diagnose your way down the list!
Good video but when the meter goes from 1 to 0 it means that there is NO resistance, the circuit is closed and current will flow through it. The 1 on the meter indicates infinite resistance, the circuit is open and no current will flow. Otherwise, thanks for the good info!
Ya I was thinking do I gotta chuck all I knew about resistance out the window? Because 0 means no resistance!
Actually the term he should be using is continuity. Means checking to see if there is a connection between 2 points. Also used for checked to see if a circuit is shorted to ground which would cause a fuse to blow. Resistance is for a load. Coils, heaters, motor windings etc. I am an AC guy so we have to check continuity constantly. Now if I can find the fusible link on my Cadillac I'll be estactic.
When the battery is bad .. the first thing you check is the alternater charge rate on load ... and id no charge check fuse ... and connections ... but ppl don't realise if the drive belt is loose/ too much slack also causes the alternater not to charge properly
"& you can't just splice it." Well... you can, it's just a really bad idea, long term. Fuses/links are there for a very good reason. (🔥)
At the beginning of the video your multimeter dial was rotated to the icon for testing diodes, it is not exactly the same as the ohm test option that you want. Instead of measuring ohms, it is measuring the tiny voltage drop across the two leads when a small voltage is applied by the meter. Check your multimeter manual for more detail, it is a setting only useful for testing diodes.
I 91 Toyota Land Cruiser having same problem so I’m going to effort chasing out that fuse able wire from the alternator to the battery I just need a place to start and your video gave me that so thank you posting that: I don’t give you a heads up on how it works out it’s going to be a few days as I am leaving troll trip commercial fishing it’s what I do... ;)
Thank you. Never even thought about that.
Oh man you saved me I was looking like crazy for a fuse box on my 1972 Dodge now I just have to untape the wires
Hey Steve. thanks first! Anyway just a point of contension . It's not resistance you're seeing, it's continuity. The actual resistance should be close to zero ohms to have continuity, or a continuous connection from one point to another. thanks again man.
Cheers!
To be even more contentious..... he is reading both continuity and the small resistance of the circuit wire...ha ha... so he is still right
So how do you fix it...
I appreciate the details, but using the wrong words when discussing electricity can get someone killed - no, seriously, it can. Please understand that every time you said RESISTANCE you were using exactly the opposite terminology - when the meter goes to zero, or nearly there, it is NO resistance, or you could say that there is CONDUCTIVITY, which is the correct terminology.
Overall, a good video, bad verbal explanation of resistance vs. conductivity.
NOTE: to those who also called Steve on this, but you said 'conduction', you were nearly correct, but conduction is more commonly used when discussing the conduction of heat.
Good to see someone else catch on!
Ahhh, the Fusible Links.....Elusive, but Deadly!!.....Jeeps Are Known for This!!
Can you please explain what you meant by elusive but deadly??
So are the GM models such as the Malibu and Saturn aura and Pontiac G6 the problem I’m currently having is my car starts and runs fine until the battery drains it does this with old alternator and the new one and I also found my cooling fans are constantly running until the car shuts off from low battery or I turn off the switch they start up when the car starts I’m getting a battery light indicator on the dash and a P0662 code help thanks for any suggestions the car is a 2008 Saturn Aura 3.5 V6 basically a Malibu
You know what you are doing... I thought you may be able to answer my question. I am wondering about the fusable link as my alternator is not working. I used a multimeter and got continuity from alternator plug pins to the battery terminal connectors. Should that mean that the fusable link is intact? It wouldnt seem like that plug could handle the current put out by an alternator so I may be wrong
Did you solve your issue?
You just saved me from replacing an ecu👍
Cheers!
WELL a mechanic told me my alternator was draining the battery and now the battery was bad as well.
Checked it myself and saw a fuse MAGICALLY BROKEN right besides the battery. Changed the fuse myself which was ($4) and the car had no problems anymore.
They wanted ($700) for the "fix". I went to autozone to check the battery and alternator and they told me they were good.
Leave no stone unturned. Glad my video helped you. Cheers!
Your video didn't show nothing. Im trying to find my fusible link so I can check it . I'm trying to see if that's why my battery light stays on and my gauges stopped working. The truck still runs, no turn signals tail lights or radio.
If your alternator is still charging with everything on and the range on a multimeter is between 13.40 14.20 then its not your alternator are battery check your grounds sometime the grounds on your car are truck are the problem
So change these
This sounds exactly what is wrong with my 97 Nissan Hardbody. New battery/alternator…still not holding a charge!
*2:00* Cable on the B post of the alternator, is that the negative? Because when you do the same test on the good alternator, you switch the + & - with that test.
no.what he did was right.hes checking resistance.basically he just checked for continuity.does matter which probes went on the b terminal.
Wish you had shown how to do all that. I'm a complete novice.
very good advise thanks.
Keep up the good work brother, love your videos.
Thank you! Cheers
My fusible link is fine. It is a big wire if it blows usually there is an electrical crisis high amp draw serious problems.
Some good info... but wasted opportunity to show the repair of the actual problem. C-
TANK YOU
IM WORKING ON A 85 DODGE RAM D-350 FLAT BED TRK 360/727 60 THOUSAND MILES ON TRK
thank you for you're video 🙏
If the fusible link is burnt then you will not have battery amperage at the alternator? And PCM controlled alternators use a fusible link?
If the fusible links are bad no power gets to your fuse box and nothing gets powered
So how would you do this test if your battery is located under the rear floor of a saturn outlook and the fuse box is in the engine compartment?
LAWL
Thank you and God bless you.
Jesus is The Way, The Truth, and The Life.
Steve, non related question. In one of your older videos you did a hard lemonade i think. And in it you said it is easier just to do a sugar wash and add the lemonade at the end. How many concentrates did you use? and how much sugar did you use for he wash?
voltronsupreme I have a video on making wine coolers, I show the math for how many juice containers you'll need how much water. the sugar really depends on how strong you want it. turbo yeast will finish below 1.000. figure out what abv you want and add the sugar until you hit that of. I would start with at least 2kg / 4lbs of sugar
You didn't show the fix... Was it just the one wire, and you put an inline fuse in it, or did you buy another fusible link just like the old one? I have a '89' Celica GT that uses fusible links and for future reference just want to know my options... Thanks!
I replaced the whole wire. Most cars you can solder a new fusible link in the wire, but Jeep has the link fused to the metal plate that attaches to the fuse box so replacing the wire was the easiest choice. Cheers Dano!
@@steve45ca I'm really curious how you replaced the whole wire? Where does it run from?
@@phillippardo5712 it runs from the alternator to the fuse box
@@steve45ca Thank you for the reply! On my 2010 Jeep compass my fusible link runs from the alt to the starter solenoid. Mine was burned in half so I just reconnected the the wire with a metal crimp clip I squeezed with pliers and wrapped in electrical tape and black duck tape. I didn't have shrink wrap and tried to avoid taking out the starter because it was a pita. The alt is charging now and seems to be functioning fine. Do you think what I did was okay?
So the " plate on the fuse box" is the other end of the alternator cord? I think mine goes straight to the battery.
Yes I believe so, I have the same setup and will have to open up all the wires.
It depends on the vehicle.
Mine goes from alt to starter solenoid.
whats your voltage under load, turning on lights and heater ect ect
nice test
1:10 your welcome
Hi Steve. Thanks for the video. I'm in desperate need of advice... I hit the back of my positive terminal with a ratchet and it shorted something. I replaced my starter, alternator, and battery. Off the top of your head, would you have any suggestions of what I could have shorted in that process? Any specific fuses or relays to test? My car will not start, it clicks one time from the starter. When I pop the clutch, the car will run fine only until I turn some loads on. Then my battery light comes on, following abs lights, etc. I have heard that it could be my new alternator that's bad, but could something else be causing my drainage during as well as sitting over night?
wow... where to start.... if your battery is draining overnight you have a good short that will need to be tracked down. Hopefully you can find a friend who can help you find it, finding electrical shorts are very time consuming unless you can find a shop that specializes in vehicle electrical systems. Sorry I can't help you further. You could see if there is a video on how to check relays and test those first
Naw, that's excellent man. The reassurance is all I needed honestly. I'm really bad with electronics and will have a friend help me on Wednesday. Thanks again.
Brandon, I know it's been 7 months but did you get it figured out... I once had a bad ground connection at my battery post and my car could start, and run, but with what was basically the battery not being connected, I was running off my alt. (not good), and as soon as I would turn my lights on (put a load on it) the car would start dying out. I would try to restart it and get a click, then nothing. Turned out that my negative post cable which had one of those unscrew type quick-disconnects was not keeping the ground connection on the post. anyway, I took that off my neg. cable and connected it with just the factory connector and everything was fine. What really threw me off is I would disconnect the ground for a few seconds then connect it and it would start, but just until it started going haywire. So by disconnecting the neg cable I thought I was resetting the computer and that is why it would restart and that part really had me worried it was something more serious, when actually I was just loosening the quick connect then when I tightened it back up it was getting enough connection to start the car. Hard to explain, but a word of advise, be aware of those twist type quick connectors... It did last about 4 years though...
I think I may have a similar problem.
I have an 82' Prelude that was garaged for 6+ months and the battery finally died. I tried to recharge it but it wouldn't charge so I bought a new one and as soon I attach the negative lead the main fuse (55a) blows. I've checked for any wires or grounds touching and haven't noticed anything out of place, etc. I've blown three fuses already and am stumped. I tried disconnecting the voltage regulator and the main fuse still blows. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
You sure that ground was actually ground? Sounds like it wasnt. Constantly blowing the main should tell you something.
hi Steve, I just replaced bad alternator on my 2004 pt cruiser. battery good. went to start, nothing, no crank, no start, no clicking, no dash instruments, starter smoked. only wires touched were ones on alternator. wipers on continuously even in off position when key turned on. totally clueless what's going on now. any ideas?
Kristie Nordbye I think your pt cruiser needs an exorcism......lol that's a super bad short for sure. I'd see if there's a shop that specializes in electrical systems for vehicles.
I would have just took a voltage reading at the end of the link, if no volts, then it's blown.
For regular cable or you. Find a link fused cable?
quick question was the Alternator not charging at all? and i am having the same problem i changed the battery and Alternator twice but i think my fuse link is on the starter but the starter does start just no charging could it still be the link?
My fusible link runs from alt to starter as well. It was burned in half so I just reconnected it with a rigged crimp with pliers and wrapped in electrical tape and black duck tape. It's charging now and seems okay.
Was i seeing wrong or did he switch the leads when he"went to the good one"!!??
Great tip, thank you
Replaced alternator, replaced battery.
$400 later it doesn’t crank and I realize it’s a fusible link 😢
I had to replace mine on my toyota T100. I had weird issues with the grounding, while the fusible link was broken. Can you give me insight and some assurance that these are not symptoms of something worse.
The positive terminal was connected but not the negative. I could touch the negative terminal to frame and it would get sparks. Why/how is the circuit being completed through the frame? Does this mean that there is a bare wire touching off where it shouldn't or just something weird about vehicle grounding the doesn't occur in other circuits? Or what am I not understanding.
Did you fixed the problème
If you have sparks when touching negative to frame you have a positive circuit touching ground somehow. Harnesses, block and chassis all tie into ground.
Thanks for your video. I found it helpful.
Good work....enjoyed!!!!!!!
1990 dodge Dakota altanotor not charging battery
Thats great. But 13.4v is way to low.
That's what I thought too.
i have a big black wire coming from the back of the alternator screwed on does it go to positive or negative on battery? I have it on negitive and dash gauge for battery shows just a quarter way instead of half way. I put in new battery and the alt but something not right. 99 gmc jimmy.
Excellent!
120 amp fuse in my fusible link holder terminal piece has blown 4 times in the last 6 months. It's an extremely easy fix but now it's in the shop because the fuse blew twice in one day so I gave up. The mechanic told me to buy a new car hahah
That's not good you have something hooked up wrong and your mechanic is an idiot if he keeps replacing them without finding the cause.
You have a bad electrical ground somewhere that the shop hasn’t caught and it’s most likely the the alternator but without the car in front of me to test it I couldn’t say for sure but you definitely need to go to a different shop and go find an actual trained Technician!!!!
nah i learn the hard way replace the alternator then decide you know what.. bet its the fuseable link
Thanks.
Hi, Instead of using the word resistance when describing o ohms on your multimeter ,use the word continuity. Just a suggestion. j
Open CCT is high resistance. 0 Ohms is NOT "showing resistance", it's showing a complete or closed CCT. The meter is literally reading zero resistance.
yes, he means continuity
Literally the vid I been looking for the past 2 days been having charging problems and no start issues on my 7.3 and the fusible link that is on my glow plug relay and intake heater relay was chewed and burned .....replaced 2 alternators changed my IPR bc it got messed up and days of in the freezing mother effing the world ....hoping I fix my problem and my truck starts and runs like normal ...how did you fix the fusible link have seen other vids of deleting them and seen others just replace and solder another link in etc
My son had a spare Jeep Cherokee so we just grabbed the whole wiring harness for that bit in the video I just wanted to make sure I could pass electricity through the fusible link to make sure it wasn't broken and it worked great even after he sold it
Hi Steve (or anyone else), I've got a question for you. I tried that first test you did where you tested the resistance between the negative battery terminal and a spot on the body and im not getting a reading. What's that telling me?
You’ve got a grounding problem.
Thank you!
What is a fusable link? You didn't say.
3:20 is where the fusible link is shown
positive volt drop test from +battery terminal to Alternator B post would of shown you your voltage loss
Where's alternator b located
1990 dodge dakota
You have continuity.
Not resistance.
you don't have resistance, you have continuity
is a fuseible link something that can come and go? I dont get a charge over 12 randomly . I say about one every 20 starts. Then it just starts to charge on its own. used meter to make sure.
If the fusible link is corroded bad enough its possible to could cause charging problems, however if you suspect the fusible links you should check them. Cheers!
on a 1999 caddy deville while driving the car heard a pop then the dash went out the car was lossing power made it home put in new battery and alt and it still shows 11.2 volts
can any one help me out on this.?
Okay
I can't even find the fuse link on my VS commodore
can that cause the headlight and dashboard and also the lights from the radio to blinks
it could
Hi.i have an Nissan almera Tino and the alternator is not charging.funy thing the red battery light NOT appears at all even with engine running.ideas?
Your problem is fix ? I had the same problem and it was the ground under the battery plat he was broken i change it and now everything number one
Is there a way to replace the fusible link with in line fuse. Have a 03 f20 6.0.
Thanks
I don't know to be honest. I don't think I'd try it. Cheers
@@steve45ca Thanks. Everyone I talked with and all research is 50/50. Found link wire and replaced. Pain in the ass!. I would recommend to anybody find a truck at a pull a part and take all wiring from alt,starter and battery if possible. Never want to do that again
Ryan wilkins...you may want to see how this guy went about the fusible link..type...fusible link repaired my way...here on you tube...cheers.
Basic things
Very good
That alternator is still on its way out. Should be at least 14v at the battery
Or the battery is low
Alright,😀
So it’s not a ground, it’s not a fusible link Hell I don’t even think the wires are bad, but my alternator is brand new and it’s the third one I’ve bought so I know it’s not bad. I put a new pulley on it, new battery, ran my own ground wires, still can’t figure it out
You ever figure it out? In a similar boat
Do you cut the link fuse and replace the cable?
You said "So let's see what this looks like on a good one"....and that's the one you fixed?!?!
Hunter must think he is Cherokee since he bought a jeep Cherokee?
When he tested for the alternator, I thought the black was supposed to be grounded instead of the red.
No polarity isnt a problem
Is this common on a f150 2005 someone lmk before I burn my truck down
Steve can you pls help me....i had replaced my alternator 7 times in my 2007 saturn aura and here i am with another low charge alternator...what is cause my perfect condition alternator that i only have every 7 months to go bad....i am replacing new alternators every couple of months i want to know what is causing my alternator to drain out
You've got a weird electrical issue that seems to keep the alternator constantly charging..... I haven't a clue what it could be though. They have mechanic forums for all cars, I'd try and find one and ask there. Cheers
You didn't show what cable you switched out that had the fusible link and more importantly, where you found it. Finding battery cables for the 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee is more difficult than finding a Hemi Cuda in a Barn. The complete harness is discontinued and impossible to find.
He needs to buy a new volt meter. keeps on jumping around . he does not understand basic terms for electricity. uses a bad meter . also wrong terms .
DID HE SAY A "FORD GRAND CHEROKEE?? "
5 months ago but "2004 Grand cherokee"
Fusible links serve a purpose....just sayin!
Yes they do. Cheers!
Al-N-ator
try this test.. i.imgur.com/kviX0VQ.jpg this is the different leg of the electrical triangle..
my positive cable that goes to the alternator is showed continuity to ground with cable disconnected from batt and alt
sounds link a short bud or perhaps the disconnected wires touching ground
Ok so what
only showed the end, after he fixed it....video description not accurate..nice enough guy, but no actionable information
Could be, maybe, not sure. So many shad tree mechanics on RUclips to miss lead viewers.
True enough however after replacing the battery and replacing the alternator this was a lesson learned cheers thanks for watching
1990 dodge dakota