This is just what is needed for partial rv backup. Operates the ac and stuff perfectly. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y is quieter than my rv generator. Only suggestion is that it needs a fuel shutoff valve. So it is easier to store.
I am blown away have have had this problem on my Onan. It gets very little use. I have saved ur channel. I couldn’t believe the tech info in ur footnotes. U have made my year.
Thank you Dewayne for your kind comments, I’m glad you found everything to be useful. I recommend downloading and saving the tech documents on your computer if you haven’t done so... just to be safe.
Thank you for recording this video and sharing it. I finally got mine running after cleaning that sensor and it's running smoothly. :) Hallelujah Jesus!
My elderly grandparents were gonna start canceling their July camping trip if they couldn't have the overhead A/C running going down the road. It's a 1981 Fleetwood Southwind with a very similar model of generator to yours. They don't know a ton about these things and while I'm somewhat experienced in this field, I don't know it all. Glad to have people like you to show us these things, it saves time and money to do search around on the ole tube. Thanks a ton bud 👍
My pleasure... I’m not an expert on much of what I post, but I occasionally run into an experience or discovery worth sharing if I feel it’ll help others. Thank you for watching and for your kind feedback.
We have a 1995 Fleetwood Southwind ! Bought it used last year and the generator was not working when we bought it. Has super low hours on it so hoping it's an easy fix and has issues from just not being used or stored for long periods 🙏 can't run the overhead AC units without it
I've been looking for this exact video for weeks... For it being so common the information is not easy to find! It's for a miller trailblazer welder with a performer 20. Thanks for the video!
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
I just bought My Pretested 1986 in a Pretested Gulf Stream. It has Squirrel and Rat Damage. I might pull it out, too. I have to see if The RV runs first. It had a Theft Issue. They stole the Battery's and cut the Cables and took the Cats. I have a Portable Generator. My Propane Lines are Chewed Open. I may need to modify some things.
@@locopilot1 It's a project for sure. It has a broken wire on the 4 wire plug in connector I have to fix. It's been sitting for 9 years and I have to deal with the fuel system. Someone stole the battery's and cut the Cables out. I'll be on the Generator after I test fire the Engine and Transmission.
Jeremy, thank you I will try this, I bought a used AT&T service truck, The oil is new , filter looks new, however, it will start , just not stay running, has 1200 hours, it’s a onan 6500 Thank you
For anyone who can't access the oil pressure sending unit wire as the video explains but can access the control panel, pin number #5 on the control board is the oil sending unit wire. That wire has a crimped wire lug that is connected to a longer wire, I disconnected the wire that is connected to the control board and shorted it to ground to test the oil pressure sending unit.
Nice straight forward video there Jeremy!! Clean description and verification/ trouble shooting of it and getting if fixed!! Damn..you just save a few of us out here a whole lot of money in a shop, (if you can find one to work on it), and a lot of hair pulling. Thanks for the sharing of this as mine won't work and will give this a try. Be really nice if we can figure out how to simply donate a little cash for the trouble & a token of appreciation - lots of people would do this in a heart beat. God bless.
Thanks, I have a 7000 emerald that has the same problem. I salvaged it from a junked rv. I was not able to remove the field wiring into the remote start switch. Thanks.
great video. my issue is when starting the spark plug sparks once and only once then dead. If I press the stop buttom to prime the fuel pum does not run. if I connect direct to the battery it does. my guess is the circuit board. What do you think?
Symptom of the generator I have exactly what you're demonstrating in this video. I do have one question as I'm new to Onan. I replicate the symptoms from inside the cabin of the RV but the switch on the generator itself does not work. Is there a toggle that you switch so you can operate from inside the cabin or on the generator itself or can they be operated either place
I’ve got an emerald plus that’s making high voltage. I believe this started happening after I cleaned the slip rings. High voltage as in 160vac. I did the rotor test at the brushes during cranking and the meter jumps all over the place. If the rotor or stator had a “flying short” it wouldn’t make power at all, correct?
Quick question I see you have green electric tape where the DC fuses go did you have to put something conductive to bridge the two ? I just picked one up and it seems to be missed the fuse cover
@@WestWayz325 good eye! No, the tape was there to hold the fuse cover on… they seem to get brittle and crack from the heat and exposure to the elements. I should have my son 3D print me a batch of them. :)
The most common problem when they exhibit that symptom is not a low oil pressure switch problem. It is loss of AC output. I worked on those old units for 20+ years.....Brushes and slip rings very often are dirty or worn. A bad voltage regulator is also very common.......I found very few machines with bad oil pressure switches. Yes it can be and is an easy test as you demonstrated. Those machines have not been made for over 20 years now. I work on the new types all the time in warmer weather......see fewer and fewer of those old BGE/NHE models. They were good but are old and many parts are not available from Cummins-Onan any longer......
@@petergoodloe6937 Inside the area behind the front panel on most machines. The control board is mounted on the back of that black plastic panel where the start/stop switch is mounted. Some machines like an NHE with electronic governors have the V/R mounted on the base below the stator housing and under the starter area. I’ve fixed them all and know them well. 20 plus years as a Cummins-Onan repair tech
@richb4099 I have a newer genset getting code 14 runs then dies in a few seconds if I restart right away it will run perfectly in no power mode with light flashing fast. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@darrinnorman9373 Check the brushes first. If it’s a 4KY brushes can’t be visually checked but an ohm test usually is good. A 5.5 or 7 KW unit, brushes are accessible and can be checked visually very easily. The ohm test on the 4Ky is done at the connector that goes into the back of the control board. It has to be pulled out. Pins number 9 and 10 at the female end of the connector. The connector is numbered on the back for wire/pin connections.
Hi I have a a 1991 onan 4000 emerald plus gen set. It runs fine and powers the rv for 5minutes. Then surges, the house power goes out, it stays running but makes a loud clanking sound like there are loose screws jumping around inside of it. When it calms down (idling) the house power comes back on.
Jeremy- I just watched your video and I am excited to clean up the oil pressure sensor and see if that is why my generator won't run without my finger on the start switch. I bought a deep socket 1 1/16" and it is too big. It is the 12 point socket. Do I need to use a regular 6 point socket instead? I tried a 1" socket and too small. Help?
John, I ran out and double checked what I used, and it was a 1-1/16” 12 pt deepwell. I grabbed a 6 pt 1-1/16” standard socket and it fits as well, but you may not be able to grab enough of the sensor once the socket is mounted to a wrench or extension. It’s entirely possible that the oil pressure switch was replaced at some point and the replacement was slightly different. Sorry I can’t be of more help… I can only confirm what was on my own equipment. Best wishes, and hope cleaning the sensor works for you.
So Jeremy- I did the oil pressure sensor wire bypass and grounded the wire end to the frame- and generator still shut off after I released the start toggle switch. Any ideas you have that would be a next step troubleshoot would be appreciated!
Just bought an RV and the original owners said the generator ran great. Got it home and it won’t crank at all. Looks just like this one. But white wires coming out the circuit breaker on the right side are cut and capped off. I can hear some noise when I hit the start button and nothing else. No cranking.
Good to know, but it's not an issue mine has at the moment. I suspect mine is just carb related since it got better after I ran it a while with fresh gas with B12 chemtool, and cleaned the heavily carboned spark plugs. The NGK V shaped electrode ones it has may be part of the problem. I need to get the proper Champion RS17YX plugs for $2/each from Advance Auto and it with them. The Motorcraft FL400S oil filter fits my 1985 Emerald 1 (BGE) 4.0 generator perfectly. They are cheap and easy to get at Walmart ($4) and O'Relly. They are used on the Ford Vulcan (3.0L V6 OHV) that Ford made for 22 years (86-08) so they are still in high usage. I like it because it's white and you can easily take a black sharpie and write when your next oil change is needed based on the hour meter. No losing your note or forgetting when it's written right on the filter.
So mine just turns and turns but never fires. I still haven’t tried grounding out like recommended in this video, but could this be the fuel pump or other issue?
Correct… you’ll have to run through the basics of combustion engine troubleshooting. Check for spark, verify you have fuel, etc. If it is motorhome mounted, ensure you have more than a 1/4 tank of fuel… most manufacturers mount the fuel pickup high in the main fuel tank to prevent one from stranding themselves running their generators.
I use 15W-40 full synthetic oil or synthetic blend of varying brands... mostly depends on what is available at the time. Never really noticed a difference performance wise, and ONAN comments that synthetic is fine to use as long as you stick to the recommended oil change cycle (every 100 hours of use.)
Hi Jose! In the description section of the video is a troubleshooting guide that has a lot of items listed to check for a “no start” condition. That’s my best reference and advice for a place to start since so many variables exist for this condition. Best of luck to you my friend. www.flightsystems.com/pdf/onan-rv-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
We have been trying to get ours going, 99 Fleetwood bounder. Just replaced the fuel pump but the line is accessible so I guess that's the problem will probably just put a second fuel tank underneath hopefully that works.
Is it possible it could be the board when I push the switch and let go it turns off if I keet the switch pushed for 10 seconds it also turns off oil pressur switch was replaceed.
Hey there can you help me? Have the same generator. It starts and idles on an even up down type idles and shuts off as soon as I put a load on it. Turn off the load and it starts up and idles at a up down idle.. I put a Napa fuel pump rated at 5.5 to 9 psi and not an Oman 149-2269 model if that makes a difference.
Mine starts only when I add starter (ether) to the carb. System was cleaned out. Any other ideas to this issue? Thanks for the video and in advance to the reply.
I have a 1978 Onan 5000 GenSet that I’ve changed the oil and filter, spark plug, fuel filter and air filter. Now I just checked the oil pressure switch and it was good because the bypass didn’t work. I don’t have a idea what to do next
Correct… and in most cases a generator won’t run if the RV has less than a 1/4 tank of fuel to prevent you from stranding yourself. This is usually accomplished by pickup tube placement.
I have the same generator (in Ford Jamboree 1992), it was running good all winter but now it stops after 20-30min. Usually if I wait about 5-10 min it starts again but quit after while again. Not sure where is the problem. Last maintenance was done before winter last year but now is stationary so I cannot bring it to service.
Martini... I have yet to experience that problem myself, but I have heard this symptom many times from others. A common resolution to this has been to lower the oil level slightly below the “full” line. If the engine is overfilled with oil, the excess oil may be transferred to the air cleaner case and air filter causing the engine to choke out and stall. Other possibilities are a dirty fuel filter, and / or an overheating fuel pump. I’m sorry I can’t be of more assistance on this issue. I have linked some service manuals and trouble shooting guides in the description of this video, they may be of additional help to you.
Thanks for the informative videos, I have an Onan Quiet Diesel 7500 that I would like to rewire for a 2 phase 240v set up. I am having trouble getting info on the wiring of the inverter to see if this is possible. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Greg… this link will take you to the manufacturer of that regulator. (They are located close to where I live.) Browse their site and give them a call… they have great tech support. www.flightsystems.com/troubleshoot?TROUBLEPAGE=COMBINED
My Onan Emerald 6300 does the same thing, Now, when iam holding the start button, the engine runs But, it isn't generating power, is there a safety device somewhere that disabled the generator head from producing power until the problem is resolved????, Also my generator get used daily, I do regular oil changes. Plugs, filters, air cleaners etc... My generator gets used alot.
Have you tried the trouble shooting guide that is linked in the description section of this video? It should help narrow down the cause of your output power issue.
@@jeremy_rigged That's exactly where iam going to. I just finished trying the oil pressure wire to ground and had no results unfortunately. Yesterday, I took my RV to flush the tanks and after a 3mi drive I started the generator without issue, mind you before I left the house, I tried to start it and it wouldn't, then after the short drive, it worked with power output, iam thinking that there is an electrical gremlin somewhere??? Anyways, thank you for your time, I appreciate it.
I have a 6500 marques propane generator that cranks over but won't fire. Replaced plugs oil and air filter and oil change and still won't start up and run.
Hi. Just swapped the control board because it was only sending 7 volts to the 12v fuel pump. Now the starter stays engaged even after I remove my finger from the starter. I have to press stop to disengage. Any thoughts?
@@jeremy_rigged No. It's a bucket truck with a starter on the back of the truck and the bucket itself. However, this problem just started after I swapped boards so I attribute it to wonky wiring. But there's a relay that has been added to it; when I disconnected it a few minutes ago it went back to normal. I'll check the other switches, maybe one is stuck.
Every Repair Shop I call tells me it's the "Slip Rings" that are fouled up and need cleaning. What's your opinion ?? Since it runs any at all, I'd tend to believe that the "Slip Rings" (brushes) are making contact!!!?
My generator looks way different than yours..mine is a onan 4000 it has a new fuel pump, fuel filter and spark plug but it won’t start and run unless I spray brake cleaner in the air filter? Could I have an oil filter problem? The fuel was replaced on the rv at the Ford shop everything else I did at home. Thank you,
@@brettsalling I was afraid of that. I'm a little iffy about testing into the carb myself. However, I don't want to take it back to the shop... Too expensive. My husband is out of town for work, so it looks like in going to have to do that. I am mechanically inclined and have done my fair share of working on things. So I think I could do it? Do I want to? No 😁
Use a 2 gallon gas can put about 10 ounces or more of seafoam add the rest gasoline disconnect your fuel line and run it into the can see from works great!
Hello Eric, the regulator and control board are directly behind the black panel where the start switch is located. In the description section of this video I provided a link for the troubleshooting guide that will assist you in diagnosing a regulator or control board issue. The guide covers various years and models as well. Hope this helps!
@@jeremy_rigged I’m thinking it does go out on these generators.....but I’m gonna start all back over again.....it’s definitely not a fuel pump problem
Could be a few things... an over heating / failing fuel pump, oil level too high or too low, and wrong oil viscosity are the more common simple reasons. How soon after it turns off are you able to restart it?
My generator starts fine but I have no electricity within the RV. This is the first time this has happened and I'm just trying to troubleshoot the problem
If it is an Onan unit, some of the trouble shooting documents I linked in the description should be of some help. Typically no power output from the generator, start at your main fuse panel in your coach and work backwards. I like to trip and reset all of the breakers, especially the little tandem breakers. If your generator has a physical AC plug and is plugged into your RV, make sure that didn’t vibrate loose. Lastly most ONANs have a main output breaker located on the unit… usually close to the start / stop switch… make sure that one isn’t tripped. If all breakers check good, you may have a failed regulator or inverter. The linked documentation in the description can help narrow that down. Given the unit runs fine, my money is on your main output breaker is tripped on the unit. Let me know how you make out!
There is a switch on the right side of the Emerald Plus 4000. There's a possibility it is in the off position which would not allow power to be delivered to the rv. Make sure it is in the ON position.
Hello everybody I also have a Onan genset Emerald 1 and I'm having generator problems and it doesn't start doesn't stay start I only can get it running with the starter fluid and it stays constant and consistent but as soon as I stop spraying it dies sounds good it sounds like it runs strong been sitting for about five years about to take out the carburetor but I see that little on and off switch I don't know if I push it to be on or if I pull it to be on
I’m by far not an expert on generators, but in my personal experience, every time I’ve had a load that didn’t exceed the continuous duty rating of the generator and still cause the generator to shut down, or switch off the output completely, the output regulator or the control board was at fault. In the video description there is a troubleshooting guide linked... this guide will cover the control board and regulator in your 7000, and will indicate test points to test, with illustrations. I’d start there to get familiar with the overall inner workings of your unit.
Hi Lonzo, the Onan recommended oil is SAE30 or 15W-40, full synthetic. I use Pennzoil Platinum 15W-40 full synthetic, only because it’s what’s available locally to me… I’m not a fan of any specific brand. Thanks for watching!
Im new to Onan, but in cars they use Relays to connect low power (key switch) to connect high power (car battery) to starter motor. I would begin my search there... Bad Relay
Look at his troubleshooting description... CHECK CRANKING Try to start the engine. If it does not crank, check the control fuse (5A Slo Blo, except models with electronic governor 10A). If the fuse is good, jumper the positive battery post to the coil terminal on the start so- lenoid. If the engine cranks, there is a poor connection, wiring damage or the control board is defective. If the engine cranks when the BATTERY POSITIVE pin is jumpered to the START SOLENOID pin on the control board, the board is defective. NOTE: The battery voltage should not go below 9.5 VDC during cranking.
good info , but half way there. If you ground the oil switch wire it will do the same thing, you will have to press the start switch twice, once to get it running then let off and press it again and let off ,it will now run.looking for solutions! thanks
Replaced oil sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter and spark plugs and onan 5500 marquis generator in our 2005 fiesta Rv and it still runs for 20 minutes and shuts off. Can someone help me? Thanks in advance..
Got a 97 5000w emerald plus in a RV we bought used. HOlding any of the gen starter buttons it just clicks. Never turns over. Pulled fuel lines, no clogs, pulled pump and it pumping gas. Pulled carb and cleaned it. Still not even firing up. Anyone got ideas to try ?
I can’t speak for your exact setup, but my Class C RV with an E-350 van body has a separate starter solenoid under the hood for the generator, and the house battery (the one that runs the 12 volt accessories in the RV) is also the generator cranking battery. I would verify that the starter solenoid is ok as well as all of the connections. Also try jumping the cranking battery. A clicking sound is usually a poor electrical connection somewhere, or insufficient current.
Russell the number one thing that comes to mind is a failing / overheating fuel pump. If you told me it would run for 30 minutes and quit I’d tell you to remove about a pint of oil through the fill hole. But if it only runs about 2 minutes, it sounds like a pump going bad.
@@thatjdmkid8170 There are trouble shooting guides linked in the video description. I’m just an average Joe-Do-it-yourselfer that shares information and fixes as I come across them. Not a professional mechanic or ONAN specialist… but you may find the trouble shooting guides and information linked in the video description helpful to point you to your problem. Here’s one link. www.flightsystems.com/pdf/onan-rv-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
There not a dime a dozen. Though they aren't worth 5 cents a 100. Don't know why in the world RV factories, don't just don't go back too; pull the rope system for less trouble shooting. Think about it; (1) you always end up OUTSIDE, trying too figure out why it quit or won't start. (2) much easier/cheaper, to remove or replace a Generac or other unit f the RV manufacturers put a fold away ramp in that compartment. (3) there Junk because; Onnan knows there the source for FUTURE SALES.
This is just what is needed for partial rv backup. Operates the ac and stuff perfectly. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y is quieter than my rv generator. Only suggestion is that it needs a fuel shutoff valve. So it is easier to store.
I am blown away have have had this problem on my Onan. It gets very little use. I have saved ur channel. I couldn’t believe the tech info in ur footnotes. U have made my year.
Thank you Dewayne for your kind comments, I’m glad you found everything to be useful. I recommend downloading and saving the tech documents on your computer if you haven’t done so... just to be safe.
Thank you for recording this video and sharing it. I finally got mine running after cleaning that sensor and it's running smoothly. :) Hallelujah Jesus!
Amen brother Ches… happy to assist! 😊
My elderly grandparents were gonna start canceling their July camping trip if they couldn't have the overhead A/C running going down the road. It's a 1981 Fleetwood Southwind with a very similar model of generator to yours. They don't know a ton about these things and while I'm somewhat experienced in this field, I don't know it all. Glad to have people like you to show us these things, it saves time and money to do search around on the ole tube. Thanks a ton bud 👍
My pleasure... I’m not an expert on much of what I post, but I occasionally run into an experience or discovery worth sharing if I feel it’ll help others. Thank you for watching and for your kind feedback.
We have a 1995 Fleetwood Southwind ! Bought it used last year and the generator was not working when we bought it. Has super low hours on it so hoping it's an easy fix and has issues from just not being used or stored for long periods 🙏 can't run the overhead AC units without it
I've been looking for this exact video for weeks... For it being so common the information is not easy to find! It's for a miller trailblazer welder with a performer 20. Thanks for the video!
Happy to help!
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF....
"I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR"
It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person.
I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!!
Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!!
For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel).
Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed.
Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!!
After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV.
Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!!
I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared.
If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
Wow! Thanks for sharing Locopilot!
@@jeremy_rigged you welcome!!!
I just bought My Pretested 1986 in a Pretested Gulf Stream. It has Squirrel and Rat Damage. I might pull it out, too. I have to see if The RV runs first. It had a Theft Issue. They stole the Battery's and cut the Cables and took the Cats. I have a Portable Generator. My Propane Lines are Chewed Open. I may need to modify some things.
Wow, looks like it's a challenging project, let me know what did you found in your generator Christopher, cheers!!!
@@locopilot1 It's a project for sure. It has a broken wire on the 4 wire plug in connector I have to fix. It's been sitting for 9 years and I have to deal with the fuel system. Someone stole the battery's and cut the Cables out. I'll be on the Generator after I test fire the Engine and Transmission.
216lbs!! I can’t believe I hoisted that damn thing out of the RV myself. Thanks for the info bro. 👍🏽
Jeremy, thank you I will try this, I bought a used AT&T service truck, The oil is new , filter looks new, however, it will start , just not stay running, has 1200 hours, it’s a onan 6500 Thank you
For anyone who can't access the oil pressure sending unit wire as the video explains but can access the control panel, pin number #5 on the control board is the oil sending unit wire. That wire has a crimped wire lug that is connected to a longer wire, I disconnected the wire that is connected to the control board and shorted it to ground to test the oil pressure sending unit.
THANK YOU!!!!
Struggled with this problem. Cleaned generator slip rings, etc, etc, etc ad infinitum!!!!
Life saving video!
Awesome! Thank you for the feedback Brian, I’m happy the video helped you!
You are amazing! May God continue the good work He has begun in you.🎉🎉🎉
Nice straight forward video there Jeremy!! Clean description and verification/ trouble shooting of it and getting if fixed!! Damn..you just save a few of us out here a whole lot of money in a shop, (if you can find one to work on it), and a lot of hair pulling. Thanks for the sharing of this as mine won't work and will give this a try. Be really nice if we can figure out how to simply donate a little cash for the trouble & a token of appreciation - lots of people would do this in a heart beat. God bless.
Thank you for the kind feedback... hopefully this info helps with your repair! God bless my friend.
Thanks, I have a 7000 emerald that has the same problem. I salvaged it from a junked rv. I was not able to remove the field wiring into the remote start switch. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip & the links. I tore into the electronics in my haste & now it won't even turn over! Need to get back to square one.
THANK YOU JEREMY! You just saved me a bunch of time. Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
Glad you found it useful Tim! Thanks for the comment.
Was your generator issue the same as explained in Jeremy's video?
I have exactly those symptoms on an Emerald III (except it hasn't set for a long time without running)-- Will try this and report back! Thank you!
beware of too much oil as well which will cause this.
great video. my issue is when starting the spark plug sparks once and only once then dead. If I press the stop buttom to prime the fuel pum does not run. if I connect direct to the battery it does. my guess is the circuit board. What do you think?
Symptom of the generator I have exactly what you're demonstrating in this video. I do have one question as I'm new to Onan. I replicate the symptoms from inside the cabin of the RV but the switch on the generator itself does not work. Is there a toggle that you switch so you can operate from inside the cabin or on the generator itself or can they be operated either place
Normally they can be operated from either place… simply two momentary toggle switches wired in parallel.
I’ve got an emerald plus that’s making high voltage. I believe this started happening after I cleaned the slip rings. High voltage as in 160vac. I did the rotor test at the brushes during cranking and the meter jumps all over the place. If the rotor or stator had a “flying short” it wouldn’t make power at all, correct?
Quick question I see you have green electric tape where the DC fuses go did you have to put something conductive to bridge the two ? I just picked one up and it seems to be missed the fuse cover
@@WestWayz325 good eye! No, the tape was there to hold the fuse cover on… they seem to get brittle and crack from the heat and exposure to the elements. I should have my son 3D print me a batch of them. :)
You are the man. Solved my problem. Ty for the taking the time to make this and all the detail.
My pleasure Ben... glad it helped. Thanks for the feedback.
The most common problem when they exhibit that symptom is not a low oil pressure switch problem. It is loss of AC output. I worked on those old units for 20+ years.....Brushes and slip rings very often are dirty or worn. A bad voltage regulator is also very common.......I found very few machines with bad oil pressure switches. Yes it can be and is an easy test as you demonstrated. Those machines have not been made for over 20 years now. I work on the new types all the time in warmer weather......see fewer and fewer of those old BGE/NHE models. They were good but are old and many parts are not available from Cummins-Onan any longer......
Where is the voltage regulator?
@@petergoodloe6937 Inside the area behind the front panel on most machines. The control board is mounted on the back of that black plastic panel where the start/stop switch is mounted. Some machines like an NHE with electronic governors have the V/R mounted on the base below the stator housing and under the starter area. I’ve fixed them all and know them well. 20 plus years as a Cummins-Onan repair tech
@richb4099 I have a newer genset getting code 14 runs then dies in a few seconds if I restart right away it will run perfectly in no power mode with light flashing fast. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@darrinnorman9373 Check the brushes first. If it’s a 4KY brushes can’t be visually checked but an ohm test usually is good. A 5.5 or 7 KW unit, brushes are accessible and can be checked visually very easily. The ohm test on the 4Ky is done at the connector that goes into the back of the control board. It has to be pulled out. Pins number 9 and 10 at the female end of the connector. The connector is numbered on the back for wire/pin connections.
@richb4099 it is the 5500 thank you I will look tonight. It's strange though sometimes it will just run fine with no problem at all.
Hi I have a a 1991 onan 4000 emerald plus gen set. It runs fine and powers the rv for 5minutes. Then surges, the house power goes out, it stays running but makes a loud clanking sound like there are loose
screws jumping around inside of it. When it calms down (idling) the house power comes back on.
Jeremy- I just watched your video and I am excited to clean up the oil pressure sensor and see if that is why my generator won't run without my finger on the start switch. I bought a deep socket 1 1/16" and it is too big. It is the 12 point socket. Do I need to use a regular 6 point socket instead? I tried a 1" socket and too small. Help?
John, I ran out and double checked what I used, and it was a 1-1/16” 12 pt deepwell. I grabbed a 6 pt 1-1/16” standard socket and it fits as well, but you may not be able to grab enough of the sensor once the socket is mounted to a wrench or extension. It’s entirely possible that the oil pressure switch was replaced at some point and the replacement was slightly different. Sorry I can’t be of more help… I can only confirm what was on my own equipment. Best wishes, and hope cleaning the sensor works for you.
I appreciate you following up and checking on your generator. I just need to find the right socket size!@@jeremy_rigged
So Jeremy- I did the oil pressure sensor wire bypass and grounded the wire end to the frame- and generator still shut off after I released the start toggle switch. Any ideas you have that would be a next step troubleshoot would be appreciated!
Just bought an RV and the original owners said the generator ran great. Got it home and it won’t crank at all. Looks just like this one. But white wires coming out the circuit breaker on the right side are cut and capped off. I can hear some noise when I hit the start button and nothing else. No cranking.
Does it not possibly burn out the starter by holding starter button down
Good to know, but it's not an issue mine has at the moment. I suspect mine is just carb related since it got better after I ran it a while with fresh gas with B12 chemtool, and cleaned the heavily carboned spark plugs. The NGK V shaped electrode ones it has may be part of the problem. I need to get the proper Champion RS17YX plugs for $2/each from Advance Auto and it with them.
The Motorcraft FL400S oil filter fits my 1985 Emerald 1 (BGE) 4.0 generator perfectly. They are cheap and easy to get at Walmart ($4) and O'Relly. They are used on the Ford Vulcan (3.0L V6 OHV) that Ford made for 22 years (86-08) so they are still in high usage. I like it because it's white and you can easily take a black sharpie and write when your next oil change is needed based on the hour meter. No losing your note or forgetting when it's written right on the filter.
What is the P/N for the Oil Sensor or compatible aftermarket???
Thanks for watching! SKU: 309-0322 , getrvparts.com sells it for $19.63. getrvparts.com/genuine-onan-cummins-309-0322-oil-pressure-sender-switch/
@@jeremy_rigged Thank you so much for all you do!!!
Anytime… more videos coming soon, channel’s finally growing, please subscribe of you haven’t already!
Thank you! I will try this on mine to see if it stays running.
So mine just turns and turns but never fires. I still haven’t tried grounding out like recommended in this video, but could this be the fuel pump or other issue?
Correct… you’ll have to run through the basics of combustion engine troubleshooting. Check for spark, verify you have fuel, etc. If it is motorhome mounted, ensure you have more than a 1/4 tank of fuel… most manufacturers mount the fuel pickup high in the main fuel tank to prevent one from stranding themselves running their generators.
I ha e the same RV and for some reason mine the starter turns over but the generator itself won't start. Like there's no compression
Thank you very much ,just save me a whole lot of time
Happy to help Pete… thank you for taking the time to comment.
This is so common it seems. Thanks for sharing this!
Thanks for help, what oil do you use ?
I use 15W-40 full synthetic oil or synthetic blend of varying brands... mostly depends on what is available at the time. Never really noticed a difference performance wise, and ONAN comments that synthetic is fine to use as long as you stick to the recommended oil change cycle (every 100 hours of use.)
How many quarts do you put in these 4000 emerald plus
@@rudysanchez5176 3.5 qts
I have the same generator as this video but when I try and turn my on only the starter comes on but it won’t start up any tips ? Thanks I’m advance
Hi Jose! In the description section of the video is a troubleshooting guide that has a lot of items listed to check for a “no start” condition. That’s my best reference and advice for a place to start since so many variables exist for this condition. Best of luck to you my friend. www.flightsystems.com/pdf/onan-rv-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
We have been trying to get ours going, 99 Fleetwood bounder. Just replaced the fuel pump but the line is accessible so I guess that's the problem will probably just put a second fuel tank underneath hopefully that works.
Is it possible it could be the board when I push the switch and let go it turns off if I keet the switch pushed for 10 seconds it also turns off oil pressur switch was replaceed.
Probably not putting out 120
RV switch has to be open??
I have a similar generator..the onan 5000... when i press the start button solenoid just clicks and doesnt turn over... any ideas? Thanks!
You need a new solenoid
I have a 6300 LP same age as yours. I have a few questions. Is there a way I can contact you?
Do you have to remove the oil filter and oil to change the oil pressure switch?
Hey there can you help me? Have the same generator. It starts and idles on an even up down type idles and shuts off as soon as I put a load on it. Turn off the load and it starts up and idles at a up down idle.. I put a Napa fuel pump rated at 5.5 to 9 psi and not an Oman 149-2269 model if that makes a difference.
Mine starts only when I add starter (ether) to the carb. System was cleaned out. Any other ideas to this issue? Thanks for the video and in advance to the reply.
I have a 1978 Onan 5000 GenSet that I’ve changed the oil and filter, spark plug, fuel filter and air filter. Now I just checked the oil pressure switch and it was good because the bypass didn’t work. I don’t have a idea what to do next
I'm a new RV Owner So the Generator gets it fuel from the Rv?
Correct… and in most cases a generator won’t run if the RV has less than a 1/4 tank of fuel to prevent you from stranding yourself. This is usually accomplished by pickup tube placement.
I have a 1996 Coleman generator does not put out
Brilliant brother.. I'll be checking mine tomorrow
I'm having problems with my generator almond generator not putting out
I have the same generator (in Ford Jamboree 1992), it was running good all winter but now it stops after 20-30min. Usually if I wait about 5-10 min it starts again but quit after while again. Not sure where is the problem. Last maintenance was done before winter last year but now is stationary so I cannot bring it to service.
Martini... I have yet to experience that problem myself, but I have heard this symptom many times from others. A common resolution to this has been to lower the oil level slightly below the “full” line. If the engine is overfilled with oil, the excess oil may be transferred to the air cleaner case and air filter causing the engine to choke out and stall. Other possibilities are a dirty fuel filter, and / or an overheating fuel pump. I’m sorry I can’t be of more assistance on this issue. I have linked some service manuals and trouble shooting guides in the description of this video, they may be of additional help to you.
Try adjusting the choke out a little
try to pull some oil out of the crankcase, when the oil expands it will shutdown the generator.
Great video. I'll add this "ace" up my sleeve.
Excellent video!
Thank you sir!
@@jeremy_rigged absolutely!
Thanks for the informative videos, I have an Onan Quiet Diesel 7500 that I would like to rewire for a 2 phase 240v set up. I am having trouble getting info on the wiring of the inverter to see if this is possible. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Greg, I’ll see what I can dig up for you… stay tuned. Thanks for watching!
Greg… this link will take you to the manufacturer of that regulator. (They are located close to where I live.) Browse their site and give them a call… they have great tech support. www.flightsystems.com/troubleshoot?TROUBLEPAGE=COMBINED
My Onan Emerald 6300 does the same thing, Now, when iam holding the start button, the engine runs But, it isn't generating power, is there a safety device somewhere that disabled the generator head from producing power until the problem is resolved????, Also my generator get used daily, I do regular oil changes. Plugs, filters, air cleaners etc... My generator gets used alot.
Have you tried the trouble shooting guide that is linked in the description section of this video? It should help narrow down the cause of your output power issue.
@@jeremy_rigged That's exactly where iam going to. I just finished trying the oil pressure wire to ground and had no results unfortunately. Yesterday, I took my RV to flush the tanks and after a 3mi drive I started the generator without issue, mind you before I left the house, I tried to start it and it wouldn't, then after the short drive, it worked with power output, iam thinking that there is an electrical gremlin somewhere??? Anyways, thank you for your time, I appreciate it.
Thank you for sharing👏👏👏 very helpful
Glad to help Liz!
Voltage regulator is generally 75 percent of the time what causes this issue (same symptom).
I have a 6500 marques propane generator that cranks over but won't fire. Replaced plugs oil and air filter and oil change and still won't start up and run.
Carb is suspect then. Also fuel pump.
I will check this out and see if that is my problem 😬
Excellent video thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting Robert!
What's problem #2?
I have power, but can't even turn it off from inside any more.
Hi. Just swapped the control board because it was only sending 7 volts to the 12v fuel pump. Now the starter stays engaged even after I remove my finger from the starter. I have to press stop to disengage. Any thoughts?
Do you only have one start switch, or is their one in the cabin remotely as well? Do you have the same symptom with both if so?
@@jeremy_rigged No. It's a bucket truck with a starter on the back of the truck and the bucket itself. However, this problem just started after I swapped boards so I attribute it to wonky wiring. But there's a relay that has been added to it; when I disconnected it a few minutes ago it went back to normal. I'll check the other switches, maybe one is stuck.
Every Repair Shop I call tells me it's the "Slip Rings" that are fouled up and need cleaning. What's your opinion ?? Since it runs any at all, I'd tend to believe that the "Slip Rings" (brushes) are making contact!!!?
Big 👍 thanks for the info
Anytime my friend!
Thanks brother!
Anytime Dustin!
Thanks one million 😮
My generator looks way different than yours..mine is a onan 4000 it has a new fuel pump, fuel filter and spark plug but it won’t start and run unless I spray brake cleaner in the air filter? Could I have an oil filter problem? The fuel was replaced on the rv at the Ford shop everything else I did at home. Thank you,
Sounds like you need to clean the carburetor
@@brettsalling I was afraid of that. I'm a little iffy about testing into the carb myself. However, I don't want to take it back to the shop... Too expensive. My husband is out of town for work, so it looks like in going to have to do that. I am mechanically inclined and have done my fair share of working on things. So I think I could do it? Do I want to? No 😁
It is probably the auto choke. take the air assembly off, manually close the choke with a screwdriver and see if that gets it started.
@@roberthollingsworth3545 hey thank you.
Use a 2 gallon gas can put about 10 ounces or more of seafoam add the rest gasoline disconnect your fuel line and run it into the can see from works great!
Mine runs great cold but after five minutes or so it starts stumble and then dies. It will restart but won't run more than a minute
Have you changed the oil recently or checked the oil? That’s also a symptom of a failing / overheating fuel pump. (About a $25 part on Amazon)
Where is the voltage regulator on this model??
Hello Eric, the regulator and control board are directly behind the black panel where the start switch is located. In the description section of this video I provided a link for the troubleshooting guide that will assist you in diagnosing a regulator or control board issue. The guide covers various years and models as well. Hope this helps!
@@jeremy_rigged I’m thinking it does go out on these generators.....but I’m gonna start all back over again.....it’s definitely not a fuel pump problem
Mine runs for a couple minutes maybe then turns off. What’s wrong with it?
Could be a few things... an over heating / failing fuel pump, oil level too high or too low, and wrong oil viscosity are the more common simple reasons. How soon after it turns off are you able to restart it?
@@jeremy_rigged instantly
@@jeremy_rigged sometimes stays on for hours other times stays on for 2 minutes
Have a 1996 old man generators that does not put out power
My onan want start no fire to plug. by
Very helpful - thanks!!
My generator starts fine but I have no electricity within the RV. This is the first time this has happened and I'm just trying to troubleshoot the problem
If it is an Onan unit, some of the trouble shooting documents I linked in the description should be of some help. Typically no power output from the generator, start at your main fuse panel in your coach and work backwards. I like to trip and reset all of the breakers, especially the little tandem breakers. If your generator has a physical AC plug and is plugged into your RV, make sure that didn’t vibrate loose. Lastly most ONANs have a main output breaker located on the unit… usually close to the start / stop switch… make sure that one isn’t tripped. If all breakers check good, you may have a failed regulator or inverter. The linked documentation in the description can help narrow that down. Given the unit runs fine, my money is on your main output breaker is tripped on the unit. Let me know how you make out!
There is a switch on the right side of the Emerald Plus 4000. There's a possibility it is in the off position which would not allow power to be delivered to the rv. Make sure it is in the ON position.
Which is the on way
Hello everybody I also have a Onan genset Emerald 1 and I'm having generator problems and it doesn't start doesn't stay start I only can get it running with the starter fluid and it stays constant and consistent but as soon as I stop spraying it dies sounds good it sounds like it runs strong been sitting for about five years about to take out the carburetor but I see that little on and off switch I don't know if I push it to be on or if I pull it to be on
My Marquis 7000 runs until I turn on the 15,000 BTU AC system. Any suggestions?
I’m by far not an expert on generators, but in my personal experience, every time I’ve had a load that didn’t exceed the continuous duty rating of the generator and still cause the generator to shut down, or switch off the output completely, the output regulator or the control board was at fault. In the video description there is a troubleshooting guide linked... this guide will cover the control board and regulator in your 7000, and will indicate test points to test, with illustrations. I’d start there to get familiar with the overall inner workings of your unit.
Great Video
Thank you... hope there was useful information in it for you.
agreed
Have no status light coming on on my Onan generator and it won't start
What about a clicking solenoid. Replaced control board, starter, solenoid and batteries topped off. No changes.
Did you figure it out?
@@benhodge8128 nope
What kinda oil are you using?
Hi Lonzo, the Onan recommended oil is SAE30 or 15W-40, full synthetic. I use Pennzoil Platinum 15W-40 full synthetic, only because it’s what’s available locally to me… I’m not a fan of any specific brand. Thanks for watching!
very good video, great fix
Thank you sir!
My generator won’t start. But you can jump it and it will start. What could it be?
Im new to Onan, but in cars they use Relays to connect low power (key switch) to connect high power (car battery) to starter motor. I would begin my search there... Bad Relay
Look at his troubleshooting description...
CHECK CRANKING Try to start the engine. If it does not crank, check the control fuse (5A Slo Blo, except models
with electronic governor 10A). If the fuse is good, jumper the positive battery post to the coil terminal on the start so-
lenoid. If the engine cranks, there is a poor connection, wiring damage or the control board is defective. If the engine
cranks when the BATTERY POSITIVE pin is jumpered to the START SOLENOID pin on the control board, the board
is defective. NOTE: The battery voltage should not go below 9.5 VDC during cranking.
Thank you !! Very helpful..
You’re welcome Sandra! :)
Thanks!
You’re most welcome!
0:47 isn't it crazy that you can break things by not using them lol
Thank you!
My pleasure!
Thank you
Thanks for the info . gotta change those generator mounts too :p
good info , but half way there. If you ground the oil switch wire it will do the same thing, you will have to press the start switch twice, once to get it running then let off and press it again and let off ,it will now run.looking for solutions! thanks
Yes.. they're a bit saggy. :D
@@larrybuffkin5640 that's an interesting problem. I'll look into it...
Replaced oil sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter and spark plugs and onan 5500 marquis generator in our 2005 fiesta Rv and it still runs for 20 minutes and shuts off. Can someone help me? Thanks in advance..
@@sylviagarza2921 some rvs have a limit for gas usage in the generators
So if your tank is ubder 3/4 it shuts off so you dont run out of gas ? Idk
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼✌🏽
You're welcome Mark... :)
My gen will not spark until you let off start button
Got a 97 5000w emerald plus in a RV we bought used. HOlding any of the gen starter buttons it just clicks. Never turns over. Pulled fuel lines, no clogs, pulled pump and it pumping gas. Pulled carb and cleaned it. Still not even firing up. Anyone got ideas to try ?
I can’t speak for your exact setup, but my Class C RV with an E-350 van body has a separate starter solenoid under the hood for the generator, and the house battery (the one that runs the 12 volt accessories in the RV) is also the generator cranking battery. I would verify that the starter solenoid is ok as well as all of the connections. Also try jumping the cranking battery. A clicking sound is usually a poor electrical connection somewhere, or insufficient current.
Try turning the big heavy wheel in the cage on the bottom with a screw driver until it seems free and then press the button.
Can you please help me with my onan generator? I will appreciate it thanks
Ramiro… I can try but I’m just a do it yourself guy who shares things that I learn… I’m not a mechanic by trade. What’s your symptoms?
Mine turns off after 2 minutes. What could be wrong?
Russell the number one thing that comes to mind is a failing / overheating fuel pump. If you told me it would run for 30 minutes and quit I’d tell you to remove about a pint of oil through the fill hole. But if it only runs about 2 minutes, it sounds like a pump going bad.
@@jeremy_rigged I changed the altitude and it works but only stays on for about 2 hours
@@russelljennings4065 after it runs for 2 hours and dies, how long does it take for it to restart?
What if that’s not the problem
@@thatjdmkid8170 There are trouble shooting guides linked in the video description. I’m just an average Joe-Do-it-yourselfer that shares information and fixes as I come across them. Not a professional mechanic or ONAN specialist… but you may find the trouble shooting guides and information linked in the video description helpful to point you to your problem. Here’s one link. www.flightsystems.com/pdf/onan-rv-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
2 thumbs up, subbed. :)
Thx!
Is this considered to be a pain in the a$$, or is it as reliable as the others?
There not a dime a dozen. Though they aren't worth 5 cents a 100.
Don't know why in the world RV factories, don't just don't go back too; pull the rope system for less trouble shooting. Think about it;
(1) you always end up OUTSIDE, trying too figure out why it quit or won't start.
(2) much easier/cheaper, to remove or replace a Generac or other unit f the RV manufacturers put a fold away ramp in that compartment.
(3) there Junk because; Onnan knows there the source for FUTURE SALES.
That’s a pretty big socket
Got this same generator.. i changed the oil, i ran it for hours on our first night camping.. the next day it would not stay on.. gonna try this..
SWEET. THANKS BROTHER