Easy bottom bracket noise fixed
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Come along with me as I find the source of the awful clicking or clunking sound and easily fix the issue.
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Park Tool AWS-1 3-Way Hex: amzn.to/3YH3fkQ
Repair stand: amzn.to/4fGEzPE
Crank Puller: amzn.to/3X1iwf
Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool: amzn.to/4dDM73O
External Threaded Bottom Bracket Tool: amzn.to/3YGX1Bs
Craftsman metric combination wrench set: amzn.to/3Ajoa3w
Chain Wear Indicator: amzn.to/4dHcd68
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Derailleur Hanger Alignment tool: amzn.to/3AmCpEF
Wheel Truing stand: amzn.to/4djPAEJ
Headset Cup Removal Remover: amzn.to/4cojkz5
Press Fix Bottom Bracket Tool: amzn.to/46KiNpY
Nipple Driver: amzn.to/3SLcVHn
For business inquires: bruce.chastain.YT@gmail.com
If you're into tool reviews and restorations checkout my new second channel here: ruclips.net/channel/UCm4g4GNOTXfr3aVtSFZGMLg
Yeah. My BB had the same problem but when I did what you did the BB got tight and difficult to pedal. I'll take the cash hit and bring it to my friendly and knowledgeable bike shop. They're righteous dudes.
Glad to see you solved the problem. I missed your videos. A tip: I use baby wipes when I maintain my bikes. They are excellent because they remove grease, oil and all dirt quickly and cleanly. A big hug.
Great tip! I have baby wipes to because we have a little toddler in our house.
I have had a clicking noise coming from my steerer tube when I would rotate the bars when turning. It turned out to be a lack of grease in the headset (came that way from the manufacturer). Got it greased up and no more clicking sound. You can never use too much grease, just wipe off excess and squeeze out when you reassemble the headset or bottom bracket, hubs, or whatever else you service. I use Trek bike grease, but I have been known to use automotive as well. Good to have around if you ever need to grease up your wheel bearings on the car- same thing there, can’t use too much. Slop it on like you’re icing a cake.
I use this type of grease too in everything usually marine grades, can be put into a 80-150cc syringe or empty tootpaste toob for the tool box/bag Have to re-tighten my mtb bb every 500 miles
Bruce, after years, I decided to start a casual bike ride scheduled, as a means to exercise. I just this week ran into this clanking type sound on my mountain bike, and ended up here. I'm going to check this you've mentioned, and see if it's causing the noise. Thank you for the tips!
hey Escagedo! glad to see ya, still doing some wood working?
I would recommend losening the non drive side and tighten the drive side first all the way in (the side that is protruding the bottom bracket shell) and then tighten the non-drive side again afterwards. Also when you are already messing with the bottom bracket it is a good idea to completely remove it first, clean the bottom bracket threads and regrease them and the whole bottom bracket. Water often accumulates inside the shell so grease it all up whenever you get the chance :)
Thanks RH. I was also considering greaseing the BB threads too, probably should have. Anyway it's so easy to take apart, I can do it again any time.
yesterday I posted quite a long text about taking off the chainset and wiggling a big screwdriver between the chainwheels. Creak creak! I was convinced I'd found the noise, after cleaning and regreasing everything else (pedals, chainwheels, chainset, bolts, new bottom bracket, new skewers on rear wheel, new chain....). So I posted a long text here. But went out iin the evening, and ..."creak creak". Oh no! This morning I put different rear wheel on and ... no creak! Note that it wasn't the skewers, it must be either the hub, freehub, or cassette. If anyone is interested it's an old Campag Daytona hub with campag 10sp freehub. Hope this helps, and apologies to anyone who read yesterday's post!
Sorted 👍and ready for another big ride. Well done on your 100 miler.
thanks a lot WAL!
I had a noise that only clicked 2 times per complete full cycle, on riding uphill or first few cranks starting out from a complete stop; HARD to find on the stand with no stress!
I just bought for my brother, a practically new bike from someone that never found time to ride it. I knew it was not a tired bottom bracket or anything serious of course; I found it was a loose nut on the back wheel; looks like it never got assembled right; there's only 300 miles on this bike, and it has a loose wheel nut? Not tightened to spec from the bike shop or factory. It was only on the left side away from the gears; was quite loose, without much play in it however; but not even finger tight.. 3/4 inch nut, or mm equiv.
The loud click was from the loose nut and the lock washer caught between nut and main washer. Wheel did not come off when riding; but I'm amazed original owner did not see that, before selling it to me. It made all the difference to fix one thing at a time; test ride it, and I could tell instantly I had my culprit!
Had to re-align the back caliper too; glad I just purchased a rotor alignment shoe that fits over the rotor when adjusting; worked like a charm; I find them difficult to adjust properly otherwise. It was definitely out of alignment once the wheel was on tight; it would not spin for long when on a stand, without realignment, and when I loosened the caliper, took it out of the equation; all was well... nice to have a bike stand, can't recommend it enough; if you like bikes, get a stand.
yeah it's shocking how often bicycles are not assembled correctly.
Thank you for teaching us this it helped me fix the sound as you said it would thank you
Glad it helped
My trek also has this problem when I go on long rides. Clunking noise from the crank. I will try and fix it doing the exact same thing you did to your bike
hey there SF, good luck on it. I really didn't think that would be the problem, I thought the bearings themselves were bad.
did it work?
Thanks 🙏
You’re welcome 😊
Bruce, lol not too long ago I was asking if you could do an update on this bike.. I guess I got it, glad you were able to get it fixed. I don't work on bikes but curious is it always right to tighten and left to loosen on bikes like everything else or it ever in reverse?
Yeah I was thinking about your other comment Timothy. As far as the turn direction, on bike sometimes they have reverse threads like on pedals for example so that there isn't a chance that you can turn the pedal off by actually pedaling. Like if the bearings sized up somewhat, it could otherwise start to un-thread the pedals, as it is it will only try to tighten them.
My problem ended up being a clunking, clicking left pedal. All it needed was some oil.
Nice!
That doesn’t seem correct. Another video I viewed said do not put grease on spindle. Depending on the bottom bracket, you shouldn’t grease unless you have loose or caged bearings. If you have sealed bearings then grease is not necessary but can be put on the threads of the BB. Also grease does matter. Which type I mean. Some grease can withstand high heat but others can’t. O well nice video and hope you find the problem.
I'm not a pro or anything, but I've had another instance where I was getting a lot of creaking and it resolved completely after I greased the tapered spindle. So I'm going with greasing it, but I'm open to be corrected if required.
Awesome & Thanks :)
Good job!
Thanks!
Hmm dunno man.. I was watching an RJ the bike guy video and he recommended not putting grease where the crank arm attaches to the spindle.. but that nut/bolt should keep it in place no? If it works it works 🤗
interesting, I've always done it like that. In fact once had a creaky crank, I tried tightening it but that didn't help, after I applied some grease the noise went away. However I did just do a search and it seems like this is a big point of disagreement. singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/to-grease-or-not-to-grease-a-square-taper-bottom-bracket-axle/
Those shoes are really cool. Do you remember what they are?
the cycling shoes?
This is best case scenario 😃
yeah totally! I was glad to get away with so little work.
return it
I pressed this video on my old account and this was posted 15 seconds ago lol
haha hey there Hunter!
auto zone has lil grease packs
good thought!
Any automotive grease is fine, "bike grease" is just a scam. Even the Phil Wood grease is just overpriced sh%t. You can get a kilogram of high quality NLGI#2 SKF grease for like what 8-10 USD? The only special grease you need is carbon paste on carbon components, thinner grease (NLGI#0 or #1) on freehub bodies and Slickoelum or similar for suspension forks or systems.
right I knew about the carbon grease was something special, but so far I've had no issues with the cheap grease on aluminum steal stuff.