Love your fast profiles, use them almost all the time now, saved me many many hours. I can turn around prototype’s quickly and update errors faster. My designs are better now. Many thanks.
It's super nice to have two printers for things like this. Love my LK5 Pro & E2 Pro. It is awesome to have two printers when you have multiple pieces to print! Thank you Chuck for recommending the E2 Pro!
Thanks Chuck! I've been using your fast profiles since you first had them available. Time is money and your are saving people a ton of time. Definitely makes helping out through Patreon well worth it! 💯
I just printed this vise! Sooo jealous how easy all your parts went together lol. But after 2 weeks of reprinting and sanding down multiple parts, I finally got it put together yesterday. I too changed and reprinted the handle longer with a smaller diameter... Also made a slot in the inside to put my little electric screwdriver to it.
Mayve your horizontal expansion setiings are of. Print 2 cubes of different sizes and then measure them with calipers. If they are off by the same ammount (for example 10.1mm and 30.1mm) you have to adjust it by that amount
For the record, I am new to 3d printing... The accuracy was really good on other prints i ahve done. I think what happened is I printed the base in pla with a much bigger layer height than the other parts. The others I did a small layer height and used petg and pla+. With the base being printed different, everything attaching to it was a little off. I got it working tho! Half the reprints were because I dropped them and they broke lol. I appreciate the tips! I'm going to try that out.
Something that should be mentioned is the max acceleration mm/s setting. I've found that you can far exceed the recommendations if your printer isn't floppy and unsupported. I see 60 mm/s as the normally recommended speed, but on my printer print quality actually suffers if I go below 80 mm/s, so for my first layer I do 80 mm/s, and everything else I do 120 mm/s, sometimes going so far as 180 mm/s if I'm printing a wide, very flat part.
So Chuck, just for clarification is the only difference between your .20 and .28 profile the .20 versus .28 layer height? I use your .28 as my daily driver so if I can simply change the layer height to get better quality and don't have to change anything else that's good to know
@@guvenator Not going to start an argument on someone else's channel, I'll simply say there are more settings in Cura beyond just the layer height. This is what I was asking for clarification on.
@@guvenator What if he just had no time to try some things on his own? Or if he is happy wirh what he has and didn't felt any need or desire to aquire those skills. Is it really helpful, to invest much time into learning a skill, if you simply don't really have this time or you have no opportunity or situation, where those skills even could be helpful? Just because you have something that works totally fine without knowledge, would be even more helpful or could be used in many more ways with skill and knowledge, doesn't mean you HAVE to aquire those things. Let him be and do whatever he wants.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks Chuck, I have a few prints over done thus far and they're ok on a new machine, but I'm looking forward to testing with my regular printers soon.
The original version of that pcb holder is one of the first things I printed on my Ender 3 back in 2019. It's a great design and prints really well. I use it a lot at work and it's held up really well. Nice to see one of my favorite models turn up in CHEP video. Great content as always.
My friend printed me your original vice design. To speed up the adjustment, we added a small adaptor into the handle so that fit it to my impact driver. Now it's very quick to adjust
Boy sure glad I found yours and others' videos. Been wanting a 3dP since the dawn of time for 3dPtrs, but the price $$$$ so I shelved the idea for many years till a month ago. The Tech Teach guy said, "Ender 3 good bass model for the price Bang for Buck", when I got the Ender 3 (yes very mechanically inclined but...), the assembly instructions were very vague; I googled it your video was the first to pop up showing how to assemble the Ender 3. The list for the Tuber community goes on but I just want to give you a snip of my appreciation of your crucial- vital informational part to the 3d Printing community and other projects and personally thank you for all you do, Thank you! Glass BED Print well my friend.
@RANDOM_VIDZ Yeah, I see a lot of places in the US getting amazing deals on printers, especially the budget ones. much better to get into printing nowadays than before :P
Me: thank you Chuck! Hot dang that was a good fast print Wife: Did you name your printer? Me: Nope just one awesome man with a super awesome profile. Thank you for all you do good sir
Just using this now using a Creality profile but actually printing on my Fokoos Odin-5 F3 printer, it has cut 3 hours off a five and half hour print and all seems to be printing great!! Thank You from Chris in the UK.....
What would we do without good ole Chuck to provide us with this great info!? Now go give him a LIKE! Just click the Thumbs Up below the title. Simple, right? 😎🤘
Brilliant work, Chuck! Nicely done! 😃 I bought a 3d printer lead screw to make one from wood. But I didn't do that yet. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I keep being really impressed by the Ender 2 Pro on account of all you're able to do with it. If I didn't already have two printers (and was considering a Sovol SV-04, and plan to get a resin printer someday) I'd probably get one.
Your extra fast profile is a total game changer. It's renewed my interest in 3d printing because things print so much faster. I can print an Ar15 lower receiver in under 13 hours at 30mm/s and 100 percent infill. The same print would've taken over 24 hours previously
5.0 defaults to printing outer walls first, which means a problem you may have already had now shows up somewhere visible rather than inside the print. You can put it back to inside-out wall order, but there are good reasons not to, or you can try to fix the problem. Most likely it's oozing inside the model due to combing and can be fixed by setting Max Comb Distance Without Retract to 1mm and Connect Infill Lines on.
Good comment on the speed relationship. I have 6 printers and only use three, my two Rat Rigs and an Ender 5 Plus. I need the extra print bed area and am willing to print slower for better quality and success
I need to add up what I have in my (formerly) Ender 3 Pro & mods. I was on track to a 25min benchy when poor driver cooling (my fault) caused a layer shift. MKS board TMC2130s Klipper Titan extruder Microswiss hotend Yellow bed springs Petsfang cooling Ezflex Pi3b Assorted printed items for the above. Expensive now, but most items were purchased back in '19.
Have you tried using Klipper on your Ender Pros and V2s? From what I understand, it will allow you to basically double your speeds with no loss in quality... But it's also supposed to be a little more complicated than Marlin.
@@FilamentFriday Klipper's Input Shaping in combination with a $5 ADXL345 board is all about overcoming certain mechanical limits (i.e. those caused by harmonic vibrations). It works so well I find it kind of spooky.
Klipper allows better optimizations but it doesn't just magically make any printer faster. That's a total myth. It's used in printers like the Voron but only because of linear advance and oscillation optimization not because it just runs faster. If the hardware isn't there, the firmware will not help with those things.
@@TechnologistAtWork Obviously if your bearings are howling or your extruder can't push harder, you aren't going faster. But if you can only print at a certain speed because the quality of the print matters, and then Klipper increases the print quality, then you can print faster.
@@beauregardslim1914 that's not how it works. Just because you can improve quality doesn't mean speed automatically increases. You need additional hardware for the vibration calculation anyways so it's not just software and it won't increase speed.
Hi Chuck , Wouldn't it be nice to be able to print that vise as one unit , two colours and two profiles . You could have colour A as the main body , movable jaw and handle and a fast profile and the gears and threaded rods as another colour and a fine profile . I'm not sure if this can even be done but it would be a fantastic thing to be able to do - maybe something that cura could look at in the future .
I can't help to notice you took a swipe at Bambu X1 Carbon 😉 I get what you are saying about price, but there is no comparison to Ender machines and X1 Carbon.
I concur Brett! I have been looking for a new printer, but not a project. The X1 Carbon has features that I want based on my 6 years of experience on my Robo3D r1+ (which has served me well). The current crop of bedslingers are pretty much the same machine in a different costumes and I’ve been watching the reviews and dragging my feet. No longer!!!
Brett’s Reef - I would hope not since you are paying far more than 2x the price for an X1. My point is you can achieve speed in ways other than spending more money. And so far the issues some channel are having along with the speed prints I’m seeing from the X1 at MRRF that were incredibly weak and had layer adhesion issues has me questioning the X1’s value when there are other ways to achieve speed for less and still have good quality solid prints.
@@FilamentFriday I know you are a fan boy of Creality, However, X1 is a new start of innovation and of course there will be issues. Creality has done the same thing for years and sold people the same old crap under different names. It took them forever just to go to direct drive. So to see a different approach to 3d printing, I think its worth backing a company that wants to move forward. By the way, I've seen many failures of all varieties of the Ender line of printers. Plus no need to spend extra cash on tinkering either.
@@FilamentFriday worth the price for you. For me that don't get printers for free, this is a great deal with the AMS. Look at the cost for a Voron you you have to build or the Prusa with mmu. Its a great value with the hardware you get in inside of a enclosed unit. Have a great day.
Yep. I have a $200 Ender 3 original with about $135 in upgrades that can print a high quality 17 minute benchy or a decent 14 minute one. And some $400-500 deltas can definitely do it out of the box.
I like your channel and recommend you often, so I hate to complain; but next time you do an ad can you adjust the volume to match the rest of the video? That was soo loud.
Hey Chuck- Is the FF 0.20 Fastest Cura 5.0 Profile included with the Long Handle Part? It would be great if your NEW Cura 5.0 Profiles were all released in one file for Patreon Users, instead of attached to models for my Ender-2 Pro. My Ender-2 Pro amazes me at how good it prints each time I use it!
Hey Chuck, can you give some background on why you haven't moved on to Fusion 360? With your teaching style, I'd love to see some of your videos on using Fusion.
I don't want to speak for him but based on what I know of him, he wants to tell us things that nobody else is talking about. There are endless tutorials for fusion 360 so I imagine he doesn't want to bother.
That would be better designed to use metal threaded rods (or even just one). That would get the print time down to a few hours and would take out the most fragile part of the design. It could be cheaper too that way.
Hey Chep!!! I was wondering ir you can make a video about the differences between the configurations un cura 5.0 and 4.13.1. I'm struggling with blobs in the first layers (just the first ones) using 5.0 bit they don't appear using 4.13.1 (yes, i added M413 to the gcode así you suggested a couple days ago). Thank you very much!!!!
5.0 has not been so great. The model already shows up missing sections when I slice it in 5.0 on default settings. Where 4.13.1 comes out as expected and prints as expected. With 5.0 there are too many unwelcomed surprises. I'm waiting for the next version and hopefully they'll fix those issues.
Great job. I have one important comment, it is imperative to use conductive filament or especially formulated filament for ESD (Electric Static Discharge) applications. If you don’t do it, you risk blowing up your electronics components on the PCB. Filaments other than ESD safe can hold thousand of volts which is well above the components ratings. It is not a question of are the components functional or not. The parts in the immediate proximity of the electrical field will be negatively impacted. The real question is when they will fail. BTW, it is not necessary for the electronic part to be touched to be damaged. Just to be in the high voltage electrical field sufficed. Keep up the good work and promote good practices.
After a couple of nights of testing your model with both your exact specifications and with my own profile tweaking, I can confidently say I can half your print time with better quality than what your profile gives me. I have an all metal extruder that comes with the E3 S1 PRO. Say hello to 5x print speeds!
@@FilamentFriday I might just go ahead and upload it for you since it was your videos on this topic that spurred my deep dive into the speed settings. My only request is that you give your honest feedback to me after trying it. I know that RUclips will not allow me to post links, so how can I share it with you in a straightforward manner?
Will you be releasing any Cura 5 settings on your website? I'm running a CR-10s and when I try to load the project it just wants to change it to an ender 3... thanks
@Jason Gunn I print PETG at 235 which is a walk in the park for most printers. Your issues were most likely with your nozzle, or buying crappy PETG. You gave $80 worth of filament away because you couldn't figure out how to print it properly? Brilliant. Everyone should definitely take your advice...
I haven't tried the extra fast profile specifically, but I've added the biggest changes, like line width, to my own profiles and have found no problem printing PETG using a stock Ender 3v2 and $15/kg PETG from Amazon. I do run the nozzle at 235-240. The biggest problem I've found is the stock extruder skips a little when trying to push filament much faster than default, but that's a common complaint for PLA too.
@@dangerous8333 IME PETG @ 235 is only viable very slow and with fan very low or off, which gives poor accuracy and overhangs. Otherwise you get really bad layer adhesion & brittle parts. I used 245 with PTFE lined hotend with decent results, and have much better now with all metal at 260+.
Printing something that small on one printer would still take 12 hours, with technology today that seems soooo slow. I get the feeling the industry is holding back. I can't get behind tech like this that requires a printer farm to complete items in reasonable times. And the tech that can print faster is way too expensive. We get Gutenberg presses to use at home while the rest of the industry gets laser printers, that's what it feels like.
For me I noticed a really big difference when I changed to klipper on my aquila, just got the adxl345 to work and now I print at 3500mm/s accel without any ghosting and up to 10kmm/s accel with minimal ghosting compared to what I had before, just visual ghosting not enough to feel it by rubbing the finger over it. 0.30mm layers at 100mm/s external perimeters and 150mm/s infill. I cut in half most the print times
Hello, 0:51 in the description from Yet ANOTHER Machine Vise by TheGoofy, he have link another horizontally rods. They are very fast and works perfectly. quote: If there are difficulties to print the threaded rods vertically, I've designed a version of the sliding jaw with horizontally printed rods Horizontally printed rods for ANOTHER Machine Vise by TheGoofy February 20, 2017 many greetings juck.
You're right about getting two printers to do the job of one for much less. However, when you don't have the space or want to print with the same spool then it's not so convenient. Plus maintaining one machine is much better than two.
@@FilamentFriday Chuck, not everybody has the spaces for multiple printers. People just compromise and print everything at the same layer height if they need the details.
I'm truly concern, he does looks tired and sick, like some bad is happening. I love his videos, and his passion to dedicate a hours if not days just to make a few minutes of videos, but again, I'm worry of how bad he looks.
It would be appreciated if you could promote something other than cheap imports. Plus, consider normalizing the audio between your video and the advert.
@@notusingthis600 Ever heard of fair criticism ? I wasted time replying to your insipid comment, next time save us both some time and don't comment on comments where people give criticism and suggestions.
I mean, its kind of the point of the channel to try and make 3d printing more accessible. If all he did was show off $1000+ machines I guarantee someone would comment that he should explore cheaper options.
@@FilamentFriday thank you dearly Chuck!!! I recently have been experimenting with bigger layer heights since I'm currently making the Geodesic Dome Cat House for my kitty. Last night I tried making a 0.32mm profile since that's as tall as you can go with a 0.4 nozzle (80%) and it honestly worked great. You should try it. Cura did all the calculations so I just based myself in the 0.28mm profile my printer's maker gives you (I have a Hellbot Magna SE) and changed the layer height to 0.32, let it calculate the rest using the Fx button, and raised the nozzle temperature (since you need to melt more material) to 220 instead of the 210 for 0.28 I usually do. The result is a bit rougher looking but completely acceptable for a functional print since this piece will be amidst other 124 pieces to make the full dome. Checkit out, because it easily shaved off 30 minutes of print time from a 1 hour 20 minutes print.
Love your fast profiles, use them almost all the time now, saved me many many hours. I can turn around prototype’s quickly and update errors faster. My designs are better now. Many thanks.
It's super nice to have two printers for things like this. Love my LK5 Pro & E2 Pro. It is awesome to have two printers when you have multiple pieces to print! Thank you Chuck for recommending the E2 Pro!
Thanks Chuck! I've been using your fast profiles since you first had them available. Time is money and your are saving people a ton of time. Definitely makes helping out through Patreon well worth it! 💯
Are you planning to release the new Cura 5.0 profiles for Ender machines on your website?
Cannot import the project file it say failed to import profile.
Can you post the cura 5 profile in the site seperately
I just printed this vise! Sooo jealous how easy all your parts went together lol. But after 2 weeks of reprinting and sanding down multiple parts, I finally got it put together yesterday. I too changed and reprinted the handle longer with a smaller diameter... Also made a slot in the inside to put my little electric screwdriver to it.
Mayve your horizontal expansion setiings are of. Print 2 cubes of different sizes and then measure them with calipers. If they are off by the same ammount (for example 10.1mm and 30.1mm) you have to adjust it by that amount
For the record, I am new to 3d printing... The accuracy was really good on other prints i ahve done. I think what happened is I printed the base in pla with a much bigger layer height than the other parts. The others I did a small layer height and used petg and pla+. With the base being printed different, everything attaching to it was a little off. I got it working tho! Half the reprints were because I dropped them and they broke lol. I appreciate the tips! I'm going to try that out.
Something that should be mentioned is the max acceleration mm/s setting. I've found that you can far exceed the recommendations if your printer isn't floppy and unsupported. I see 60 mm/s as the normally recommended speed, but on my printer print quality actually suffers if I go below 80 mm/s, so for my first layer I do 80 mm/s, and everything else I do 120 mm/s, sometimes going so far as 180 mm/s if I'm printing a wide, very flat part.
So Chuck, just for clarification is the only difference between your .20 and .28 profile the .20 versus .28 layer height? I use your .28 as my daily driver so if I can simply change the layer height to get better quality and don't have to change anything else that's good to know
Wtf, dont people try anything at all ny thenselfves ? You can try any height you desire
@@guvenator Not going to start an argument on someone else's channel, I'll simply say there are more settings in Cura beyond just the layer height. This is what I was asking for clarification on.
@@guvenator What if he just had no time to try some things on his own? Or if he is happy wirh what he has and didn't felt any need or desire to aquire those skills.
Is it really helpful, to invest much time into learning a skill, if you simply don't really have this time or you have no opportunity or situation, where those skills even could be helpful?
Just because you have something that works totally fine without knowledge, would be even more helpful or could be used in many more ways with skill and knowledge, doesn't mean you HAVE to aquire those things.
Let him be and do whatever he wants.
RoXolid Productions - Yes, I only changed that setting. Like MasterOfToasting said, just try it.
Let me know your results.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks Chuck, I have a few prints over done thus far and they're ok on a new machine, but I'm looking forward to testing with my regular printers soon.
The original version of that pcb holder is one of the first things I printed on my Ender 3 back in 2019. It's a great design and prints really well. I use it a lot at work and it's held up really well. Nice to see one of my favorite models turn up in CHEP video. Great content as always.
My friend printed me your original vice design. To speed up the adjustment, we added a small adaptor into the handle so that fit it to my impact driver. Now it's very quick to adjust
Wow great video! I love all your Cura videos, hope more are coming!
I changed out the gears. The big ones for the treads to the handle, and the one from the handle to the treads.
Boy sure glad I found yours and others' videos. Been wanting a 3dP since the dawn of time for 3dPtrs, but the price $$$$ so I shelved the idea for many years till a month ago. The Tech Teach guy said, "Ender 3 good bass model for the price Bang for Buck", when I got the Ender 3 (yes very mechanically inclined but...), the assembly instructions were very vague; I googled it your video was the first to pop up showing how to assemble the Ender 3. The list for the Tuber community goes on but I just want to give you a snip of my appreciation of your crucial- vital informational part to the 3d Printing community and other projects and personally thank you for all you do, Thank you! Glass BED Print well my friend.
400$ for a CR-10, oh man.. really is insane compared to 2-300$ printers nowadays, and from all sorts of brands
@RANDOM_VIDZ Yeah, I see a lot of places in the US getting amazing deals on printers, especially the budget ones. much better to get into printing nowadays than before :P
Good Work Chuck! Thanks! Have you published your Cura 5.0 Profiles yet?
His old profiles still work on 5.0
Me: thank you Chuck! Hot dang that was a good fast print
Wife: Did you name your printer?
Me: Nope just one awesome man with a super awesome profile.
Thank you for all you do good sir
Just using this now using a Creality profile but actually printing on my Fokoos Odin-5 F3 printer, it has cut 3 hours off a five and half hour print and all seems to be printing great!! Thank You from Chris in the UK.....
That's a nice upgrade Chuck! I'll be printing this one.
What would we do without good ole Chuck to provide us with this great info!? Now go give him a LIKE! Just click the Thumbs Up below the title. Simple, right? 😎🤘
Brilliant work, Chuck! Nicely done! 😃
I bought a 3d printer lead screw to make one from wood. But I didn't do that yet.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I'm using your .28 fast profile on my bone stock Ender 3 to print a dozen paint pyramids (3 at a time) and it's working great. Thanks for sharing it.
I keep being really impressed by the Ender 2 Pro on account of all you're able to do with it. If I didn't already have two printers (and was considering a Sovol SV-04, and plan to get a resin printer someday) I'd probably get one.
awesome, i'm going to print the vise. thanks Chuck!
Sir where can I find your new cura 5 profiles thank you
Your extra fast profile is a total game changer. It's renewed my interest in 3d printing because things print so much faster. I can print an Ar15 lower receiver in under 13 hours at 30mm/s and 100 percent infill. The same print would've taken over 24 hours previously
Tried cura 5.0 but retraction is a consistent problem. Switched back to 4.8 and everything works as it should
5.0 defaults to printing outer walls first, which means a problem you may have already had now shows up somewhere visible rather than inside the print. You can put it back to inside-out wall order, but there are good reasons not to, or you can try to fix the problem. Most likely it's oozing inside the model due to combing and can be fixed by setting Max Comb Distance Without Retract to 1mm and Connect Infill Lines on.
Do you still use the printed spacer with Capricorn tubing in the extruder? Is that upgrade still working?
Thanks Chep.
Yay thanks for the new profiles... They need very little tweaks to make them work on an A20m geeetech (in single filament mode).
Good comment on the speed relationship. I have 6 printers and only use three, my two Rat Rigs and an Ender 5 Plus. I need the extra print bed area and am willing to print slower for better quality and success
I need to add up what I have in my (formerly) Ender 3 Pro & mods. I was on track to a 25min benchy when poor driver cooling (my fault) caused a layer shift.
MKS board
TMC2130s
Klipper
Titan extruder
Microswiss hotend
Yellow bed springs
Petsfang cooling
Ezflex
Pi3b
Assorted printed items for the above.
Expensive now, but most items were purchased back in '19.
That's awesome. I printed one of the "original" vices a few years ago, time for an upgrade I think... :D
Glad to see you embracing the need for speed. 😎😂
thanks to your profile i'm printing right now a file that should took me 20 hours of printing instead i'm printing it in just 7 hours and 40 minutes.
Where are those extra fast profiles? Thank you.
Have you tried using Klipper on your Ender Pros and V2s?
From what I understand, it will allow you to basically double your speeds with no loss in quality... But it's also supposed to be a little more complicated than Marlin.
I haven’t. I have my doubts though that firmware can overcome the mechanical limits of the Ender design.
@@FilamentFriday Klipper's Input Shaping in combination with a $5 ADXL345 board is all about overcoming certain mechanical limits (i.e. those caused by harmonic vibrations). It works so well I find it kind of spooky.
Klipper allows better optimizations but it doesn't just magically make any printer faster. That's a total myth. It's used in printers like the Voron but only because of linear advance and oscillation optimization not because it just runs faster. If the hardware isn't there, the firmware will not help with those things.
@@TechnologistAtWork Obviously if your bearings are howling or your extruder can't push harder, you aren't going faster. But if you can only print at a certain speed because the quality of the print matters, and then Klipper increases the print quality, then you can print faster.
@@beauregardslim1914 that's not how it works. Just because you can improve quality doesn't mean speed automatically increases. You need additional hardware for the vibration calculation anyways so it's not just software and it won't increase speed.
Hi Chuck ,
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to print that vise as one unit , two colours and two profiles . You could have colour A as the main body , movable jaw and handle and a fast profile and the gears and threaded rods as another colour and a fine profile . I'm not sure if this can even be done but it would be a fantastic thing to be able to do - maybe something that cura could look at in the future .
Thank You sir.
Pretty cool
Will this profile work on different 3D printers?
Yes
I can't help to notice you took a swipe at Bambu X1 Carbon 😉 I get what you are saying about price, but there is no comparison to Ender machines and X1 Carbon.
I concur Brett! I have been looking for a new printer, but not a project. The X1 Carbon has features that I want based on my 6 years of experience on my Robo3D r1+ (which has served me well). The current crop of bedslingers are pretty much the same machine in a different costumes and I’ve been watching the reviews and dragging my feet. No longer!!!
Brett’s Reef - I would hope not since you are paying far more than 2x the price for an X1. My point is you can achieve speed in ways other than spending more money. And so far the issues some channel are having along with the speed prints I’m seeing from the X1 at MRRF that were incredibly weak and had layer adhesion issues has me questioning the X1’s value when there are other ways to achieve speed for less and still have good quality solid prints.
@@FilamentFriday I know you are a fan boy of Creality, However, X1 is a new start of innovation and of course there will be issues. Creality has done the same thing for years and sold people the same old crap under different names. It took them forever just to go to direct drive. So to see a different approach to 3d printing, I think its worth backing a company that wants to move forward. By the way, I've seen many failures of all varieties of the Ender line of printers. Plus no need to spend extra cash on tinkering either.
I have one coming to test. I’ll see if it’s worth the price.
@@FilamentFriday worth the price for you. For me that don't get printers for free, this is a great deal with the AMS. Look at the cost for a Voron you you have to build or the Prusa with mmu. Its a great value with the hardware you get in inside of a enclosed unit. Have a great day.
Hi Chep, could you share your 0.20 Extra Fast profile? thanks
"How I printed something twice as fast using just CURA and a second printer"
Great video as usual but I disagree that you have to spend over a thousand dollars to have a machine that prints a 17-minute benchy.
Yep. I have a $200 Ender 3 original with about $135 in upgrades that can print a high quality 17 minute benchy or a decent 14 minute one. And some $400-500 deltas can definitely do it out of the box.
I like your channel and recommend you often, so I hate to complain; but next time you do an ad can you adjust the volume to match the rest of the video? That was soo loud.
Will this profile work with the ender3 v2??
Yes, it does. I'm using his 0.28 fast profile on my Ender 3-V2.
Hey Chuck- Is the FF 0.20 Fastest Cura 5.0 Profile included with the Long Handle Part?
It would be great if your NEW Cura 5.0 Profiles were all released in one file for Patreon Users, instead of attached to models for my Ender-2 Pro.
My Ender-2 Pro amazes me at how good it prints each time I use it!
The fast pro file does work on ender 3v2 ?because is used it but didnt work, i test in cr10 e3pro e3pro max
Hey Chuck, can you give some background on why you haven't moved on to Fusion 360? With your teaching style, I'd love to see some of your videos on using Fusion.
I don't want to speak for him but based on what I know of him, he wants to tell us things that nobody else is talking about.
There are endless tutorials for fusion 360 so I imagine he doesn't want to bother.
That would be better designed to use metal threaded rods (or even just one). That would get the print time down to a few hours and would take out the most fragile part of the design. It could be cheaper too that way.
Hey Chep!!! I was wondering ir you can make a video about the differences between the configurations un cura 5.0 and 4.13.1.
I'm struggling with blobs in the first layers (just the first ones) using 5.0 bit they don't appear using 4.13.1 (yes, i added M413 to the gcode así you suggested a couple days ago).
Thank you very much!!!!
5.0 has not been so great. The model already shows up missing sections when I slice it in 5.0 on default settings. Where 4.13.1 comes out as expected and prints as expected. With 5.0 there are too many unwelcomed surprises. I'm waiting for the next version and hopefully they'll fix those issues.
Profiles will not load into my cura v5. Is it because I have aa CR6 se and these profiles are for another machine?
Great job. I have one important comment, it is imperative to use conductive filament or especially formulated filament for ESD (Electric Static Discharge) applications.
If you don’t do it, you risk blowing up your electronics components on the PCB. Filaments other than ESD safe can hold thousand of volts which is well above the components ratings.
It is not a question of are the components functional or not. The parts in the immediate proximity of the electrical field will be negatively impacted. The real question is when they will fail.
BTW, it is not necessary for the electronic part to be touched to be damaged. Just to be in the high voltage electrical field sufficed.
Keep up the good work and promote good practices.
Been doing this for many many years without a single failure so I would love to see proof of your hypothesis.
I can't get my threads to look that good 😞
Good improvement but extremely misleading title. But it's RUclips right, gotta do that to get the clicks.
Yeah, I can't wait for the Chuck wacky face thumbnails.
Hi chuck, how do i find the magic 0.2 profile?
After a couple of nights of testing your model with both your exact specifications and with my own profile tweaking, I can confidently say I can half your print time with better quality than what your profile gives me. I have an all metal extruder that comes with the E3 S1 PRO. Say hello to 5x print speeds!
Where do you share your profile so I can try it?
@@FilamentFriday I might just go ahead and upload it for you since it was your videos on this topic that spurred my deep dive into the speed settings. My only request is that you give your honest feedback to me after trying it. I know that RUclips will not allow me to post links, so how can I share it with you in a straightforward manner?
Email. chelleb1 at yahoo
@@FilamentFriday It's been sent now, good luck with testing. Looking forward to hearing about your results. :)
I don’t see it. What was the subject so I can search.
Can you help? How do I take a flat black and white image and give it depth so I can print it? What programs can do this?
Look up how to make a lithophane. I'm sure the techniques will be very similar 👍
Will you be releasing any Cura 5 settings on your website? I'm running a CR-10s and when I try to load the project it just wants to change it to an ender 3... thanks
Maybe at some point. Once you load the .3MF the profile should be available for all Creality machines.
Chuck have you tried the extra fast profiles with PETG? I've found PETG to be picky at being printed fast...
@Jason Gunn I print PETG at 235 which is a walk in the park for most printers.
Your issues were most likely with your nozzle, or buying crappy PETG.
You gave $80 worth of filament away because you couldn't figure out how to print it properly?
Brilliant.
Everyone should definitely take your advice...
I print PETG at 150 mm/s on an Ender 3 v2.
Edit:
Using a genuine Micro Swiss hot end.
I haven't tried the extra fast profile specifically, but I've added the biggest changes, like line width, to my own profiles and have found no problem printing PETG using a stock Ender 3v2 and $15/kg PETG from Amazon. I do run the nozzle at 235-240. The biggest problem I've found is the stock extruder skips a little when trying to push filament much faster than default, but that's a common complaint for PLA too.
@@dangerous8333 IME PETG @ 235 is only viable very slow and with fan very low or off, which gives poor accuracy and overhangs. Otherwise you get really bad layer adhesion & brittle parts. I used 245 with PTFE lined hotend with decent results, and have much better now with all metal at 260+.
time to add a stepper motor, drive and connections to the arduino board you are holding with the clamp.... well maybe not.
lol your advise to print faster is to use two printer? lol why not use 4 printers? you'll do it in 3 hrs!
I used a fast profile and stayed within $400. Four printers would cost more than $400.
The files on your page are all old
Where is the extra fast .20 profile? Just changing the .28 to .20 has about the sameresult. Crappy.
It's funny how my comments about Cura 5 are getting deleted/not published. Why is that?
Printing something that small on one printer would still take 12 hours, with technology today that seems soooo slow. I get the feeling the industry is holding back. I can't get behind tech like this that requires a printer farm to complete items in reasonable times. And the tech that can print faster is way too expensive. We get Gutenberg presses to use at home while the rest of the industry gets laser printers, that's what it feels like.
For me I noticed a really big difference when I changed to klipper on my aquila, just got the adxl345 to work and now I print at 3500mm/s accel without any ghosting and up to 10kmm/s accel with minimal ghosting compared to what I had before, just visual ghosting not enough to feel it by rubbing the finger over it.
0.30mm layers at 100mm/s external perimeters and 150mm/s infill.
I cut in half most the print times
Could you teach us to work with Tinkercad as well? 🙂
Here’s my whole playlist of Tinkercad videos. ruclips.net/p/PLRFPlUhDTTllAprh8GbHJw0NjHKWT7Yzs
@@FilamentFriday Thank you!!
@5:29 you are right. speed DOES cost money. say NO to drugs, people!
💕👍
Hello,
0:51 in the description from Yet ANOTHER Machine Vise by TheGoofy, he have link another horizontally rods. They are very fast and works perfectly.
quote:
If there are difficulties to print the threaded rods vertically, I've designed a version of the sliding jaw with horizontally printed rods
Horizontally printed rods for ANOTHER Machine Vise
by TheGoofy February 20, 2017
many greetings
juck.
You're right about getting two printers to do the job of one for much less. However, when you don't have the space or want to print with the same spool then it's not so convenient. Plus maintaining one machine is much better than two.
Then just save 5 hours on one bed and print everything at 0.2 and not save 11hrs. It’s your choice.
@@FilamentFriday Chuck, not everybody has the spaces for multiple printers. People just compromise and print everything at the same layer height if they need the details.
17 min benchy ... Bambulab X1 🤪
reserved for furter commenr
①
Bro, you look awful, what happened to you? Need some rest and take care of your health.
Not nice man
I'm truly concern, he does looks tired and sick, like some bad is happening. I love his videos, and his passion to dedicate a hours if not days just to make a few minutes of videos, but again, I'm worry of how bad he looks.
It would be appreciated if you could promote something other than cheap imports. Plus, consider normalizing the audio between your video and the advert.
It's easier if you just don't click his videos. Don't like it, don't watch it. Plus you save yourself (and us) the pointless complaining.
@@notusingthis600 Ever heard of fair criticism ? I wasted time replying to your insipid comment, next time save us both some time and don't comment on comments where people give criticism and suggestions.
@@notusingthis600 Easier for who? I often comment on videos; it's a nice feature on RUclips.
I mean, its kind of the point of the channel to try and make 3d printing more accessible. If all he did was show off $1000+ machines I guarantee someone would comment that he should explore cheaper options.
Bernard Tarver - What machines would you recommend?
I will try to adjust the audio in RUclips editor.
Hello! I really want to try this but it doesn't prompt me to add the new printer profile after importing the file in cura. What am I doing wrong?
It may have already added it.
@@FilamentFriday it didn't no, I just checked. Could you upload the curaprofile file? I really want to try it!
There all inked in this video: ruclips.net/video/zAEjGEvtL28/видео.html
@@FilamentFriday thank you dearly Chuck!!! I recently have been experimenting with bigger layer heights since I'm currently making the Geodesic Dome Cat House for my kitty. Last night I tried making a 0.32mm profile since that's as tall as you can go with a 0.4 nozzle (80%) and it honestly worked great. You should try it.
Cura did all the calculations so I just based myself in the 0.28mm profile my printer's maker gives you (I have a Hellbot Magna SE) and changed the layer height to 0.32, let it calculate the rest using the Fx button, and raised the nozzle temperature (since you need to melt more material) to 220 instead of the 210 for 0.28 I usually do. The result is a bit rougher looking but completely acceptable for a functional print since this piece will be amidst other 124 pieces to make the full dome.
Checkit out, because it easily shaved off 30 minutes of print time from a 1 hour 20 minutes print.