I am going to give a tip for people who are doing this for the first time. I dont think you expressed the importance of the flux well enough so I am going to give my 2 cents that people will find helpful You need to clean as as much of the oil and debris paint any clear varnish or lacquer away from the repair area use a stiff wire brush or 120 grit sandpaper and scuff up the aluminum around the area that needs repaired. You want the metal as clean as possible. The flux is a mild acid used to clean aluminum oxide off the aluminum. Aluminum oxide forms very quickly on aluminum and is what gives aluminum it it's ability to resist corrosion. Flux also keeps fresh aluminum oxide from forming while brazing as oxide will cause the repair to not stick and fail. You don't need to use a lot of flux it is probably best to practice on something that is also pure aluminum go to the hardware store. And get a piece of aluminum flat stock that is roughly the same thickness at the metal you are repairing. First practice getting the brazing material to bond to the aliminum stock then put a fee holes in the aluminum stock and practice filling them in this helps you to understand what you are doing and the best way to do it. You need to use just the right amount of flux not too much not too little If you use too much flux when you apply heat to the repair site the flux is suppose to turn from a paste into a liquid and will run and drip and into the pipe you are trying to repair that could cause all sorts of problems for you when yo go to apply the brazing rod it will be drawn to the flux inside the pipe and could cause a blockage or it will drip and run all over place causeing a bigger clean up as you want to remove as much of the flux as possable off the work piece to keep it from for corroding other places on the piece you are working on. Also flux attracts the metal used in brazing rod if you have flux everywher you will draw that metal away from your repair causeing you more work and turning a neat professional looking job into a huge mess that looks like an amature repair. If you use too little it won't keep the aluminum ocide from forming and cause the repair to hold. Practice, practice practice and when you feel confident that you can do it practice one more time. Good luck I hope this helps someone.
@@Mayneverknow I don't know I think it supposed to be like that I went to a supplier and opened a few there all like that I wish they would explain that in the videos you would figure that's a pretty important part
I have an air acetylene torch. I was using a NE180-1 and it wouldn’t get hot enough. I then tried an air acetylene with the blue flame all the way out (carburizing flame) and melted it almost instantly even with my small tip I was using (smith quickbraze). I will try to experiment with a bigger tip - I have a 1-2-3-4. And will see which one melts the aluminum rod easiest.
That is good job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I am going to give a tip for people who are doing this for the first time. I dont think you expressed the importance of the flux well enough so I am going to give my 2 cents that people will find helpful
You need to clean as as much of the oil and debris paint any clear varnish or lacquer away from the repair area use a stiff wire brush or 120 grit sandpaper and scuff up the aluminum around the area that needs repaired. You want the metal as clean as possible. The flux is a mild acid used to clean aluminum oxide off the aluminum. Aluminum oxide forms very quickly on aluminum and is what gives aluminum it it's ability to resist corrosion. Flux also keeps fresh aluminum oxide from forming while brazing as oxide will cause the repair to not stick and fail.
You don't need to use a lot of flux it is probably best to practice on something that is also pure aluminum go to the hardware store. And get a piece of aluminum flat stock that is roughly the same thickness at the metal you are repairing. First practice getting the brazing material to bond to the aliminum stock then put a fee holes in the aluminum stock and practice filling them in this helps you to understand what you are doing and the best way to do it. You need to use just the right amount of flux not too much not too little If you use too much flux when you apply heat to the repair site the flux is suppose to turn from a paste into a liquid and will run and drip and into the pipe you are trying to repair that could cause all sorts of problems for you when yo go to apply the brazing rod it will be drawn to the flux inside the pipe and could cause a blockage or it will drip and run all over place causeing a bigger clean up as you want to remove as much of the flux as possable off the work piece to keep it from for corroding other places on the piece you are working on. Also flux attracts the metal used in brazing rod if you have flux everywher you will draw that metal away from your repair causeing you more work and turning a neat professional looking job into a huge mess that looks like an amature repair. If you use too little it won't keep the aluminum ocide from forming and cause the repair to hold. Practice, practice practice and when you feel confident that you can do it practice one more time. Good luck I hope this helps someone.
I noticed my Flux is a powder is that normal?
i noticed this seems to be a new coil. What needs to be done when the coil has oil on it due to the leak?
The flux will decontaminate the area and disperse the oil. It is made for cleaning the repair area from all contaminates.
Can you use this on mirco channel coils?
I'm from New Zealand were can I get this product
Is the Flux powder form
Just received the product. Also a thick power 🤷♂️
@@Mayneverknow I don't know I think it supposed to be like that I went to a supplier and opened a few there all like that I wish they would explain that in the videos you would figure that's a pretty important part
@@jayquin7336 he did. It’s in 5:23.
The other guy couldn't screw in a light bulb...
Copper coils leak in industrial areas or pollution
I understand that aluminum is a fantastic heat sink
But that turbo torch is over kill it's not necessary, all you need is a map torch
I have an air acetylene torch. I was using a NE180-1 and it wouldn’t get hot enough. I then tried an air acetylene with the blue flame all the way out (carburizing flame) and melted it almost instantly even with my small tip I was using (smith quickbraze). I will try to experiment with a bigger tip - I have a 1-2-3-4. And will see which one melts the aluminum rod easiest.