Thank you for educating me on the OAG. I am new on this subject and looking forward to get one in the near future, provided my wife's approval. Take care and again thank you very much for your valuable presentation. I subscribed to your channel.:)
The QHY oag-m, which came with the 268-m camera and cfw-l filter wheel. The documentation shows incorrect spacing for the oag to cfw. The distance should be 14 mm or more, not 6 as listed.
And for my f/ 6.3 reducer I use the Optec one. They made me a custom camera mount to go from the m48 ring to the Optec dovetail on the lens. Only cost $75
At the end when you are setting the focus of the guide camera why is the lower left corner of the frame dark? Is the hole too small for the sensor? In the previous scene where you focus the main camera I see the branch you will use for the guide camera and there is nothing but sky in the back ground. Thanks.
Hi Thanks for watching! The dark area in the lower left is an exposure artifact as the background (sky) is widely overexposed - the OAG image covers the guider chip - there is no vignetting. Again, the background in the main camera is very overexposed. Remember that the main camera here is a a CCD and the guide camera is CMOS and they have different bit depths. Hope that helps! Cheers R
Like lots of things its pretty straightforward but is confused by badly worded 'manuals'.Many thanks for the nice feedback and for watching! Cheers, Ray
Thanks so much for this very good video. I have been looking for a long time a good setup for my OAG. I'll try to do a french to help french language people. You'll be in the Credits for sure
55mm from the flat side (telecsope side) of the OAG, yes, but more importantly 75mm from the flattener (not all of them but a lot of flatteners demands that back focus), that's what's important. For Esprit 120ED owners : carefull, and check if the male part of extender tube (piece "3b" in page 7 of the owner's manual that comes just after the flattener, and sometimes composed of 2 parts screwed together) can be screwed in completely : mine was too long, and, not only once screwed in the OAG, it was impossible to move the stalk of the OAG, but the OAG was tilted and the backfocus wrong (too long) ! => I had to sand the male part of the piece "3b" with a sand paper (it's aluminium and easy to sand), about 1mm. Even now, if I want a correct backfocus, I have to sand the flat side of the OAG by about 0.5mm...
Mine is set up for an m42 thread but it accepts T2 and m42 adapters..so i can fit pretty much any astro camera!!! Hooe that helps, and thanks so much for watching!! Cheers, Ray.
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Thank you for educating me on the OAG. I am new on this subject and looking forward to get one in the near future, provided my wife's approval. Take care and again thank you very much for your valuable presentation. I subscribed to your channel.:)
Glad you found it useful!! Thanks so much for watching and subscribing!!!
Cheers, Ray
My god man, you got me to go insane, my wife is looking for a straightjacket
Oh no!! Sorry it wssnt more helpful....
The QHY oag-m, which came with the 268-m camera and cfw-l filter wheel. The documentation shows incorrect spacing for the oag to cfw. The distance should be 14 mm or more, not 6 as listed.
Thanks for the info!
And for my f/ 6.3 reducer I use the Optec one. They made me a custom camera mount to go from the m48 ring to the Optec dovetail on the lens. Only cost $75
Thanks a lot - was very helpful!
Glad you found it useful. Thanks very much for the comment and for watching!! Cheers, Ray
At the end when you are setting the focus of the guide camera why is the lower left corner of the frame dark? Is the hole too small for the sensor? In the previous scene where you focus the main camera I see the branch you will use for the guide camera and there is nothing but sky in the back ground. Thanks.
Hi Thanks for watching!
The dark area in the lower left is an exposure artifact as the background (sky) is widely overexposed - the OAG image covers the guider chip - there is no vignetting. Again, the background in the main camera is very overexposed. Remember that the main camera here is a a CCD and the guide camera is CMOS and they have different bit depths.
Hope that helps!
Cheers
R
Very informative with some very useful practical point, the ZWO OAG manual is hopeless.
Like lots of things its pretty straightforward but is confused by badly worded 'manuals'.Many thanks for the nice feedback and for watching! Cheers, Ray
Thanks so much for this very good video.
I have been looking for a long time a good setup for my OAG.
I'll try to do a french to help french language people.
You'll be in the Credits for sure
I am very pleased you found this helpful!! Thanks very much for watching!
Ray
55mm from the flat side (telecsope side) of the OAG, yes, but more importantly 75mm from the flattener (not all of them but a lot of flatteners demands that back focus), that's what's important.
For Esprit 120ED owners : carefull, and check if the male part of extender tube (piece "3b" in page 7 of the owner's manual that comes just after the flattener, and sometimes composed of 2 parts screwed together) can be screwed in completely : mine was too long, and, not only once screwed in the OAG, it was impossible to move the stalk of the OAG, but the OAG was tilted and the backfocus wrong (too long) !
=> I had to sand the male part of the piece "3b" with a sand paper (it's aluminium and easy to sand), about 1mm.
Even now, if I want a correct backfocus, I have to sand the flat side of the OAG by about 0.5mm...
Many thanks for the info, and for watching!!
Cheers
Ray
That’s the ZWO OAG, I believe. I thought they could only accept mini (1.25”) cameras, but that look full sized. Am I mistaken?
Mine is set up for an m42 thread but it accepts T2 and m42 adapters..so i can fit pretty much any astro camera!!! Hooe that helps, and thanks so much for watching!! Cheers, Ray.