This guy is awesome and he helped me redo a time chain on my Ford Explorer, which consisted of removing the damn engine. Worked great ever since. Couldn't have done it without his video. This guy is my RUclips mechanic.
Dude, Thank You! I put a different brand of Red coils in my Expedition, stars with an E.. anyways i did plugsand those POS coil, was great for like 3 months, then started misfiring again! Watched this video and the light bulb came on, thankfully i saved all my old coils, so i put all new plug boots and my old couls in and its running great again, Thanks again!
I had one coil fail on a 4.6 Expedition in 23 years. The bolt broke off in the head. I just stuck a new coil down in the hole and let gravity hold it down. That was about 15 years ago. So far, so good.
I've been a DIY guy for 36 years. I learned long ago that when it comes to electrical and ignition parts, OEM parts are 99.9% of the time way better than the Aftermarket parts. This brought back memories of buying aftermarket coils for an old truck I owned. As soon as I walked out of the parts shop, I tested them with my VOM. They were bad right out of the box, just carelessly made with denting in the coil housing. Pay a little extra and get OEM on electrical and ignition parts!
This video is so true. Great video Brian, something to also put out there is how a aftermarket IGN. coil can and will burn out the driver in the PCM. The drivers will not take over amperage and kick. Most of all the PCM's I have replaced on Fords was due to aftermarket parts, or letting your tune-up go way to long before doing it and the coil is overheating due to the wide gap. But i will agree with Brian, if you keep up with the Spark Plugs and Coil Boots, that coil will last the life of the vehicle. Same as for most ford sensors. Hope your video helps people!
@@ltrs1212 i’ve had amazing success with it over the years. And I get my oil analyzed every single change. I’ve used all the oils and I like what Amsoil has to offer so I just stuck with it if I had to use Rotella or Valvoline, I would too, because they are good oils as well. I also like to use hot shots, but they have been back ordered for sometime.
Absolutely 💯 . No aftermarket junk on my f150. My 2011 3.5 ecoboost pushing 280000 miles. Original coils, boots, timing chain. Only thing i change are the plugs every 55 to 60000 miles. Anything over that and your taking a chance on getting misfires due to cracked spark plug porcelain insulators.
That's impressive! I have a 2011 3.5 Ecoboost as well and I had to replace the timing chain and two of the cam phasers. Replaced water pump as well since they already in there. I bought (actually stole it. Got a good deal😁) it from the dealership with a stretch chain. Paid a hefty price to get it fixed but still came out better than if the dealership would have fixed it. They would have asked double for what they had in it. Nice job on the preventive maintenance!
Totally agree. My original coils on my 2004 5.4 lasted 165,000 miles. I replaced them with MSD and then had one go out after 12,000 miles and then another at 20,000 miles. I replaced with a cheapo coil and traded it in but if I was going to keep it, I would have bit the bullet and paid for OEM. It's sad because back in the day, MSD and Accel were great. Now, not so much.
I think its because on the old vehicles the ignition systems were very basic now everything has to be coded ( i.e injectors and ignition coils calibrated to a certain cylinder) and of course the company cant make it to exact OEM specs due to patents
@@renj6531 - I think also the older products were made in North America. The MSD blasters I got were made in China. I just think when the company was bought in 2004, it went downhill.
I have a relative who worked for Ford as a technician when engines were switched to the "coil on plug" design. He said that when they had vehicles come in under warranty that had issues that were narrowed down to secondary ignition, they would replace the coil, boot and spark plug. Ford sometimes would call the old coils back for analysis and found nothing wrong with them. He said that's when Ford told them to replace the boot as that is what the causes of those misfires is. I've always thought that the ignition coil boots are the most overlooked item when doing a tune-up or diagnosing a misfire problem by certain people. Experienced people don't overlook them.
@@AbcAbc-sp1od : Just like the boots on spark plug wires on older style distributor ignition systems, the rubber or silicone boots break down from heat cycling & age. Thus, the high-voltage spark travels (shorts) through the boot to the nearest piece of metal (ground), rather than through the spark plug electrode within the cylinder, like normal. Thus, the misfire.
@jdtractor man : I often question people's "testing methods". It's a well-known fact that many electrical components can & often do exhibit intermittent failures, but not complete failures. Sometimes, ignition coils will randomly fail from excessive engine heat, or simply too many heat cycles during their "in service" lifetime. I've found that due to the time and money involved, if I have a cylinder misfire due to lack of spark, I will replace either the spark plug or the ignition coil... Most often, both. Very rarely do I bother with replacing only a plug boot, because a new boot always comes with a new coil. Time is money & comebacks are both expensive & damaging to a shop's reputation.
Ok Mr ford technician I have a real question I have a 2018 ford fusion 1.5 cylinder 1 and 4 is miss fireing I know better to put the brand standard on it I was wondering do need buy one motor craft at a time can I just go with the duralast ignition coil 2 for 160 or motor craft 1 for 144$ I need good judgement
Watch the fanboys whine. I tell people to only buy Ford coils also, they don't realize how good they are. I used to be in the automotive testing world and Ford spent a lot of money testing those parts.
I run a 16 RAM 5.7 hemi and had my own coils tested against aftermarket ones years ago and found my own coils actually hold up better than aftermarket in high rpm better and produced better spark to my plugs. So I learned many years ago to stick to OEM. Through the dealer VIN matched parts. And no issues.
155k miles on my 16 3.5eb bought the truck from an older buy with 80k miles so far I've 0 cam phaser rattle 0 issues change the oil every 5k miles with Pennzoil platinum 5w-30 like you suggested with Ford oil filters and run an oil catch can and gapped .26 spark plugs every 20-30k miles. Best channel hands down for Ford information and repairs!
Spot on. Been running original stock coils on my 2013 mustang with 11 psig boost for 6 years with no issues. Save your money for things that really improve the vehicle.
A few months ago I changed plugs on my 2006 F150 5.4 3v at 268,425 miles. I put on aftermarket coil boots because I thought they would need replacing. I reused my 16 year old 268,425 mile coils. Truck runs like a dream. The old boots looked great. I don’t think they actually needed changing.
I love your rants. Soooo true!! If I have a dead coil, I will sometimes go aftermarket, if my customer is broke. My local parts house carries Motorcraft, and that is what I recommend. Love all the vids, especially when u go off on certain oil products. 😂😂😂
Thanks for the video. People also need to know that replacing just one coil can usually remedy the problem as well. I have fixed a lot of engine problems by replacing only 1 spark plug, and nothing else.
Back in the early 2000's in college, our automotive instructor proved to us that the factory coil is better than Accel or MSD. We were young and in disbelief but after seeing the results we learned pretty quick
Yeah I learned the hard way. I bought an mad coil for my 1995 z28 Camaro LT1. Drove a few weeks then out of no where the car shut off while I was driving. Manage to get it started back up after several tries an made it home. Wouldn't start back up. Let car cool off. Went looked sunder hood was thinking what the could it be. Lucky for me I kept my old oem coil that I took off an just decided to start with that since I know some new parts go bad from the box. After putting the old coil back on it crank right up. Didn't have no problems from that anymore since I wrecked the car a year later. Never bought no aftermarket ignition nothing for any car after that. Always open for me.
Unless you are running hi-po drag/track racing stock coil is fine. It's all based on the PCM anyways, it sends out signal to the power required. Just did a tune up last month... my truck feels like it has 20 more hp... actually it probably has back the 20hp it lost due to needing a tune up over the years.
Im not flinging mud at MSD as a company, but this is spot on. I have 98 LS1 Camaro that I put MSD coils on. Almost year later (I didnt drive the car that much it was a weekend cruiser at best) #2 coil failed. Warrantied all the coils, swapped them, 2 years later #6 failed in the same manner. I went back to factor GM coils which have been on flawlessly since 2010. This is spot on - the MSD coils may be OK for drag and road course but the riggers of daily driving just chew through them. The coils have their place, just not needed on daily applications
Hey bro thank you so much. I'm so broke. I lost everything after COVID. And can't do my profession anymore. You literally made it so I can have a vehicle. Blessings to you
Just swapped all six plugs and coils on my 2011 at 126k miles but went all OEM despite the extra cost, and now I'm extra glad I did. Before doing it I spent an hour reading forums like F150online and found nothing but negative comments from other owners who tried fancy 3rd party units like this. Thanks to your other video I made sure they were actual OEM parts and not knockoffs even though I ordered from a trust worthy source. New style bag with breather hole and new coils were a dead match for the old in all the ways your pointed out. Thanks to your videos I'm never afraid to tackle a new maintenance project on my own, and it's made me love my truck all over again.
Agreed 100%. I took my old F150 for a tune up to the shop and asked for Motorcraft coils. He said they used another brand and never had a problem. I let him change them, every coil misfires. He replaced them all to my request at a prorated amount.
Brian, you are the man!!! Fantastic vid. You speak the truth and back it up with real world experience and with your great videos! This is one of my favorite automotive repair channels.
I'm glad Brian clarified that the old 2v coils would indeed fail far too often because I've had my fair share of that happening :) ...swapped coil (left plug alone) and problems solved.
Years ago when I had to changed my plugs in my 2006 F-150 I asked my friend should I change my coils. Now, he works for Toyota, and he told me to leave them alone they don't fail often. Even though he doesn't like Ford he said some of their OEM parts are good to great. All I did was change the boots in case they were cracked from the heat per his suggestion!!!
90% of the OE coil problems is the green fuzzy corrosion on the spade terminal where the spring mounts to the coil behind the boot. I've cleaned hundreds of these and they were good for a long long time.
IMO a lot of good coils end up in the trash, something else is what is causing the issue. Like the boot, spring, plug, corrosion etc. But the coil is easy to replace so people just throw the parts cannon at it.
@@sdvten 2017 f250 owned since new, zero dielectric grease on any of my coils from factory, have removed 4 now with massive corrosion. Cleaned the springs and they are usually ok. Did have to replace one though. At 67k.
@@akfury83 Ford usually doesnt use any grease. The 6.2l coils have an issue with the little resister puck inside the coil and spring. The little puck leaks and causes corrosion sometimes ruining the coil and causing the spark to burn a hole in the side of the coil snout and the spark shoots to the engine or fuel rail. I have ran into this problem myself. I put some dielectric grease on the puck to help prevent damage from the puck corroding but not much you can do. Denso makes Motorcraft COPs so you can save a lot of money buying denso COPs from Rockauto.
2019 f150 2.7 I literally was just looking into upgrading my coils, just because it’s got 95000 and wanted to “upgrade”. Thanx for this video bro!!!!! I’ll save my money
Hey Brian good to see your boy working with you while he’s in trade school handing it over to another generation to continue being a fair and honest technician hope to see more of you guys working together soon blessings to you both
I've been following this channel for along time, i remeber watching videos filmed while he was still working for the ford dealer way before he started on his own. I learned alot from his insights. He is the go to ford guy period. I wish he was local to me I'd beg to be his apprentice and work with him, because his ford expertise is worth gold in this industry. He's dedicated his craft to ford and as a tech that works on everything, I know a true specialist when I see one. Sorry for the rant, but good info on ecoboost ignition misfires. I'll keep in mind that stock coils rarely fail. Most service writers will recommend coils once the tech diags a misfire and condems even just one coil. Good info, keep it coming its always appreciated!
Yep, put accel coils on my 18eb to and made it a week before the number 2 coil started misfiring. Swapped it out with the number one coil to verify the misfire. Put the OEM coils back in it, ran like a top.
Thank you for the video. I have had another mechanic who said the same exact thing….when you replace a part, make sure it is a Ford part or you’ll have problems. You have really helped me and I appreciate you.
Good on ya mate Theres plenty of videos on RUclips saying aftermarket coils are a waste of money In fact, OEM ford are considered pretty good. There’s a guy who has a three valve. He basically says nine times out of 10. The coil just needs cleaning and you remove it clean the terminals on the top take the boot off the spring out clean the spade terminals and then buy a kit with a new boot and spring 9.9 times that fixes it. ……. That’s what I’ll be doing save myself 1000 bucks on MSD. All the best from Melbourne Australia
2011 EB @ 60k problems with carbon trking. Ford dealer wanted $480 to change plugs & boots. Changed my own plugs, cleaned the boots and coated inside boots with dielectric grease. $40 and no misfires. Change plugs every 40k,never had another misfire problem. 150k same boots and coils.
Had a V10 Super Duty 2v. I used to keep a pair of spare coils in the door pocket along with a code reader. Seemed like that thing dropped a coil every few months. My friends father was a mechanic for a large rental van company who's policy was replace all coils when one failed, so I had a constant supply of good coils.
The difference is called PPAP. OEM parts are subject to a PPAP inspection. It's an added expense and it's time consuming. It's a step that aftermarket companies don't usually do. One of the reasons they are cheaper. It insures the parts you get meet or exceed the design tolerances and performance specifications required by engineering. In addition Ford is also very good at making design revisions to known failure points so the parts are continually improving if they do find a reoccurring issue.
Many people doing You Tube automotive diagnostics say the same thing. USE ONLY OEM PARTS ESPECIALLY ELECTRONIC OR ELECTRICAL PARTS! The early 5.4L and 6.8L 2 valve engines had upgrades with the ignition coils, but they finally got those right and after that eliminated the misfire problems. The only time I saw misfire problems after that was due to extreme spark plug wear, which meant that high voltage spark had to go somewhere! Good one Brian! Sometimes ranting gets the point across especially when the cost for the OEM coil is quoted. In the end the customer finds out, sometimes the hard way, what works!
Yes! I saw this on my 5.4L. Put in Excel and they failed. Changed multiple and after 4 of 8 I returned to Ford and 60,000 miles never had a problem since.
166k on my 2014 F150 Ecoboost with factory everything. Still 0 problems. Yeah, I do maintenance to replace wear items like plugs and so on, but no engine trouble. I did hear the dreaded timing chain rattle on startup maybe 8 time last winter, but none since then so I'll wait that one out. Anyway, my truck has been very reliable. I do maintenance and that's it. I'm not anal about testing oil, spending $100 on oil every change (around 4k miles for me). I just use normal good name brand synthetic oil, ford oil filter, ford plugs and that's it.
LAST PERSON TO TOUCH IT SYNDROME Common sense isn’t all that common and for the most part the obvious is only so when simply explained !! Good job as always Brian 🙏😁
Appreciate the video. I think there is a fine line between OEM and Aftermarket for different makes and models. I would like to see a video on where you were going with AMSOIL and Blackstone.
I would like to see where he was going with that too I’ve been using Amsoil in my power stroke for going on three years now because I believe it’s a very good synthetic oil I’m not saying it’s the best but I think it’s one of the best and less he can convince me otherwise I am going to stick with using it.
@@walterlundblade well no offense to them but I would trust someone like project farm from RUclips that’s done several comparable tests with all the motor oil’s and AMSOIL is one of the best and what most people don’t know is that they’re one of the few that are actually 100% synthetic where is the other companies that say full synthetic are actually only partial synthetic blended and still mixed with dinosaur oil because legally they can do it I don’t know anything about the Blackstone that he’s referring to but I know in project farms testing of many of the other brands they fall short in burn off and in lubrication and cold temperature flow never owned the eco-boost far as I’m concerned they’ve had problems since day one despite any oil you put in it I wouldn’t say any of the RUclipsrs blew it up just because of adding Amsoil to it but that’s just my opinion for however many videos that are out there from RUclipsrs trying to blame Amsoil for blowing up their eco-boost I could show you 100 other RUclips videos of why the eco-boost fails as a engine period lol
@@DaveofAllTrades75 project farm is pretty good youtuber. The ecoboost engine is pretty reliable and packed with power. Not saying they dont have flaws but every engine does. The biggest issue with the ecoboost 3.5 is the weak chain and the oil cam phasers. Ford has done a lot of upgrades to the failing timing issues. Other than that the 3.5 ecoboost engine is a beast. Now im not sure if amsoil is turbo rated or whats going on but several people i seen on youtube was using amsoil and their engines blew up. There are 2 oils Motorcraft or mobil 1 full synthetic best for the ecoboost never heard a shop say use anything else.
Another problem eco boost owners have is installing tuners and turning up the boost. Anytime you start messing with the OE tune your asking for problems.
I have an 08 F-150 5.4 3v and I try to almost always buy O.E. FoMoCo parts, and this is why. People wanna make fun of me for that but whatever, this is why. Thanks for the demonstration. 😀
So glad you suggested to reuse My factory coils on my 2009 5.4 3v at 235,000 miles when you done my Full timing job , now at 260,000 miles it's still humming right along 😎
Hello, I did that, I changed all 8 then had other issues that were repaired, assumed that is what caused the need to change the coil packs and spark plugs. Then less then a month had to change the other side. So they lasted about one year. I learned the hard way. Thank You for your knowledge and time.
I agree! And I learned from experience about 5 years ago. 10,000 miles on a set of MSDs and one failed. I replaced the whole set with OEMs and learned my lesson. I had used their complete sets two other times years ago and they did ok, but all in all the realization is that the OEM coils are best. I did use Densos on a V10 F250 though as I'm fairly certain they make them for Motorcraft or at least did at that time. The markings were identical. Those were about $10 cheaper per coil and have been running great for years. Still I learned and will only do OEM/Motorcraft or Densos (assuming each time they still pass the quality check! Things change often in the aftermarket world, usually for the worse, so good to not just rely on memories of 2015 parts quality)
Perfect explanation and live time video Proof Brian! Great job. I'm retired and past 70 years old, this has been my method all through my career. I still use OEM on all electrical items. Spend a bit more and do the job once. I drive two ford trucks one is 24 years old and runs like it did when new, the other is a 2006 5.4 three valve and same situation OEM and no repairs by anyone but myself or a trusted ASE technician occasionally. Yes I'm nuts I have my own quality scan tools to make sure its correctly diagnosed. Again great proof video, I'm definitely sharing this.
I just replaced my coils with Denso (made in USA), hopefully they will hold up. The coils had been changed before I bought the truck with chinese coils. BTW, the truck has 289,000 miles on the 5.0 engine.
@@flynlow43 Yep that's what I saw on mine. I'm always worried some day that'll change. Hopefully not since Denso does so much with OEs. Still, so many names in the past used to be high quality OE providers but now their consumer stuff is junk. Denso still good for these is great news.
I had a problem with denso O2 from rock auto for my 2003 accord. Crap 30 day warranty on O2’s from rockauto. The obd2 readiness codes for secondary O2 would never set even after 10,000 miles. I eventually bought a Bosch from autozone 1 year warranty and the codes set in a few hundred miles. So it is still hope it work when buying the good name brand lol
OEM coils have definitely improved since the early 2000’s. The coils in my 2001 VW Passat were prone to failure. The ones in my 2016 VW Golf have run for almost 120,000 miles without a problem.
you are correct I work on VW and other European car and the first generation 1.8 T were pretty weak but now the newer cars they are very reliable and the models like the VR6 and 2.0 L 8 valve engine that the coil was bolted to the engine block or head VR6 they tended to crack last week I got into the shop and 2014 Jetta with the 8 V engine it had a misfire in high humidity and it was a new set of NGk plug wires it put a new set of BERU wires made in France they are one of the best if you don't want to go OEM .
I had to get a new coil pack for my mk4 vr6 back around 2006 iirc, probably about 6mo-1yr before they came up with the Ford coil swap for them. Damn thing was 360$ at the time. I've still got the car, and drove it till 2012 or so and parked it in the garage when it needed timing chains. In 2019 I finally got it out and did the chains. The coil looked great, no corrosion or anything. Metal and plastic doesn't mix too good. If the metal corrodes, it acts like a tree when it grows thru the middle of a rock and it's only a matter of time until it's toast. I'm no scientist,but over the years I've seen that ruin alot of sensors and things like that because rust never sleeps. Not sure if I'd do the Ford coil swap or not, it probably depends on how much an oem one is.
@@V10PDTDI it's not a cure ,but an insulator plate can help em from getting the engine heat soak. I coulda made one ,but for 20$ Phenix engineering has a piece of phenolic and longer screws for those vr6 type coils.
You're absolutely correct. If I had my choice OEM would be the only ones. Customers think that cheaper is better. I have a shelf with a pile of used coils and they are better than the aftermarket. Thanks!
I have a 2011 F150 6.2 with 200K, I had sparking. These coils have a terminal for an extra cylinder with a wire. I bought 8 coils on Amazon for under $100. The coils are over $100 from ford each! The boots are serviceable but the OEMs coils were fine, but the boots were disintegrating. But for that price, I changed them out. Have the OEMs in the truck. If they fail I will just use the boots, those are fine. So far 1000s of miles they are fine, truck runs like a bear! ENA brand. Tons of real, good reviews. I think that company is an OEM.
@Shannon Smith It depends on the car , as an example , I can still get new genuine spark plugs , cop for our 14 year old falcon & a genuine coil pack ( VDO ) & plugs for a 22 year old falcon , sometimes it becomes harder to get genuine when no longer available from ford but if the part is from a known manufacturer , it can still be soured , just not through ford .
I tried some once upon a time in my 2012 F-150 Ecoboost.. they must not have been shielded or something but they caused so much EMF interference that the computer went crazy. Idle was crap and wouldn’t rev. Threw a few codes related to PCM fault or something along those lines. Even the headlights were flickering weird. I quickly returned it back to the factory coils and all was good. Glad I didn’t fry it!
Thank you so much for your honesty and straight forward approach to these issues. You’ve helped me diagnose and fix my fords from your very informative videos.
So glad I came across this video as I was about to buy the MSD coils for my 16' 3.5L Ecoboost, wow what timing. FoMoCo coils for me with new plugs. Definitely subbing this channel!!!!
Good decision and very good timing. Very good luck as well, Brian is the best. You can spend all day watching some of these videos and get great advice. He goes into detail and he explains step by step as he shows you and he tells you why he does things. Hands down, I think this is the best channel on RUclips when it comes to car/truck repairs. If you want a ford, especially a truck this channel is essential. I'm not just talking about saving money, I'm talking about something more important, getting peace of mind and knowing you are doing things right. I've actually taken my vehicle to him and I don't live close to there. I planned it out and did a road trip and I'm not the only one, a lot of people here have done the same thing from all over the country, he's a good. Of course I've done a lot of my own work from watching his videos, I've tried things that I might not have otherwise. Good luck to you
I remember buying an Accel Coil for my HEI distributor years ago - always had a high-RPM miss. Went back to my OE GM HEI coil and things went back to normal. I fell for the hype! Go OE or go home! Thanks for reenforcing that belief Brian!
Yes and no from me. Can be hit or miss truthfully, just dont buy the cheapest ones available . Had a few factory coils go after 160k, which is fine with me, but I'm that guy who's been running champion plugs and accell super coils for 120k without issues. This is on a 5.4 3v, brain's favorite engine lol.
I did the same thing, I thought I was "UPGRADING" yup I was wrong about three weeks after installation I started getting a miss I contacted Summit Racing for a replacement set in which they replaced the entire set, Cranked it up everything was fine couple months later the problem came back. I saw your post to stay factory so I went to ford and got OEM its 2 years later and runs like a champ!
I wish I could have gotten OEM when I had to replace mine the first time. I was low on cash at the time so I got some Amazon specials. Well, after 2 months the boots swelled and got stuck as well as become super brittle. So I got a set of MSD coil packs. That was 2 years ago and they still work fine. I do have a full set of new OEM packs in my trunk ready to go for when these go out which they will.
Wow. I've been using a set of MSD coils in my truck. And they have been in my V8 Mercury Mountaineer for almost 2 years. I never had an issue at all.😮 But I'm going back to OEM on my next tune up.
My car had 440,000 miles and I have never changed the coils. This guy is interesting. He says to buy OEM parts and then he makes a video about FAKE OEM parts to watch out for. I was at the dealership the other day and I asked my parts man (that I have done business with for 25 years) if I bought his parts can he guarantee they weren't fake. He said he could. I feel so much better now. Great video!
Yes He was talking about Rock Auto selling parts labeled as GM or Ford or Mopar factory parts and they are really fake Chinese knock offs. If You lay the boxes side by side You can see the box is a copy and a poor one at that. It's really going on they are making fake parts over seas.
Could not agree more about aftermarket parts. Oem are the only way to go for long term consistency in maintaining an optimum running engine. The sensor dept for aftermarket situation is even worse. Even mechanical parts don't escape. The hype is very credible and most people are taken in, only to realise down the road, they've been hoodwinked.
Don’t ever apologize for being passionate and sincere. Anybody with the brain who is also genuinely and sincere will recognize that don’t apologize because idiots feel stupid about paying extra $500 for coils that they didn’t even need. How many perfectly OEM coils do you think it’s thrown out? When I go to the junkyard, I see which coils from Audi use and stuff I can’t help myself but take him out and try to sell them online or something that I need.
I own a auto repair shop, I’ve been a professional automotive technician 20+ years. I 100% agree with using factory coils and plugs. Before I opened my shop a few years ago pretty much every shop I’ve worked for used aftermarket crap and there was always issues with electrical parts and engine parts. The 4.6 and 5.4 engines I swear every time I installed an aftermarket coil it would come back in a week with another coil bad then another one that happened so many times. Coils can also go bad from using aftermarket plugs I use to see this at the Saturn dealer on the 2.2 eco tech where someone put in some junk aftermarket plugs the the Bosch 4 electrode plugs well the resistance was astronomically different so the coil and ignition modules would go bad from the massive difference in ohms. I remember one of my friends brought her cobalt into a shop I worked for, I check it out and sure enough it had some junk plugs like the 4 electrode Bosch and the coil and module were shot, her and her husband come into the shop to talk to me and said he replaced all that stuff 4 times and it keeps happening, so I explained it’s from the wrong plugs, she yells at her husband telling him to stop trying to play mechanic, her husband didn’t believe me, I got my ohm meter out to show him the difference, he didn’t understand what ohms were so I said basically what’s going on is with the plugs u put in it’s like going 100mph in 1st gear that’s what the plugs are doing the the coil and module, he seemed to understand but still did seem confident in what I was saying he said those plugs are supposed to be the best thing to put in the car that’s what the guy at the part store said, I said dude the parts store guys dont professionally work on cars us shops do! The engineers that built and designed this engine are using a certain spark plug for a reason, millions of dollars went into the development of every engine so who do u think knows better the engineers or this 19 year old at the part store? He didn’t wanna spend the money but his wife asked me “is this 100% going to fix the problem “? I said yes and she said fix it. The husband said well it usually starts running like crap within 100 miles so we will see if this fixes it. A few months later they came in for an oil change so I go talk to them to ask how it’s running and she said “it’s running great that definitely fixed it! My husband is no longer allowed to play mechanic anymore. He does it saying shops are too expensive they are a rip off but we paid more with him trying to do it because 2 times we had to pay for a tow truck, the part store only let us warranty the parts once plus I didn’t have my car. Like he wants to do my brakes because the parts are 100 bucks but I would rather pay the shop 350 and the it’s done in an hour and it’s done correctly.” Her husband looked all pissed off but that stuff happens all the time with husbands trying to fix their cars to save money and it ends up costing more
I fell for this back 30 years ago on a new 1995 Ford Probe GT I owned. I was trying to squeeze out 1-2 more HP I guess.?...I replaced the ignition setup with a "high performance" setup and it ruined the plug wires within 5,000 miles. I went back to the original and all was well. Thank you for the video!
I bought a Dorman transfer case motor a month ago just to get me back on the road. First snow storm- NOTHING. Took it to my local shop guy to check out the electrics, everything was good. It was the shift motor that arrived defective and I installed it that way. SO I got a motorcraft one and had him install it. I learned my lesson- only OEM on these trucks for important functioning parts.
Not only on the newer models. This isn’t a new thing. Back in the early 2000s, these aftermarket coils were junk on our Lightning trucks. Brands like MSD, Accel and Granatelli Motorsports. Not just coils, aftermarket mass airflow meters too. O2 sensors too.
As a shop, we have very good luck with the Amazon brand performance coils for the fords. Can’t speak for the newer motors but the 2v and 3v motors they work great
I worked on a '15 F150 3.5L Ecoboost and the CarFax showed a dealer had put in spark plugs about 20k miles before we got it. It had misfires under light boost high-gear loading and we really didn't know why it was happening, OEM coils and replaced plugs, etc. Pulled plugs to check for carbon tracking, but nothing was wrong. Come to find out that that dealer had installed plugs for the N/A 3.5L. 😮😮😮😮
Your video answered my question thank you. Have an intake leak, car going into the shop intake coming off, decided to change the plugs. Was going to put aftermarket coils on until I saw your video. I was kind of in the researching phase. Your video drove it home. my research is over as I said thank you. I'm just going to leave the coils the way they are if it isn't broke don't fix it. And I will be subscribing.
I fell for the MSD coils and put them on my 2016 F150 5.0. 6 months later one failed on cyl 3 and fried the ignition driver in the the ECM. I ended up having to replace the ECM which cost me 600 dollars. After I replaced the coils with MSD which cost 300 dollars. Never will I ever make that mistake again.
100%!!! I've had the same problems with EVERY aftermarket ignition coils I've used on my 2012 Ecoboost. The stock coils are the best for this application.
I never buy aftermarket parts for any ignition, emission, or timing parts. In the long run it always turns out to cost more and causes different issues.
I've been using cheap eBay parts for years on all of my cars and never had any issues and don't even know anyone that's had any issues using the cheap eBay coil packs I just put one in my pathfinder with 60,000 Mi because the OEM One failed at 60,000 MI
Hey Brian. Great video. Could you elaborate more on Amsoil and Blackstone Labs? I don't use Amsoil but I can't see why it would be bad besides it being expensive when other oils would perform similarly. Blackstone Labs seems to give good data for the price. What's your take on them?
I'm in the same as you. I found this video from him about Amsoil: ruclips.net/video/ttGQW217wTM/видео.html His complaint appears to be that it's a waste of money. But nothing on Blackstone Labs. I wonder what he means by that. I've used Blackstone labs like once or twice and I thought they were pretty awesome. Maybe he's going to say that doing a periodic check is a waste of money, maybe some people think they have to have their oil analyzed every oil change. I only did an analysis when I had a decent transmission leak for a long time to check of there was any damage and the analysis checked it was all good.
I personally wouldn’t put Amsoil in a lawn mower. Heard and witnessed problems after using this oil. The neighbor is still chasing problems from use it. Yes it was the proper oil for his application.
One potential issue with Blackstone is potentially people using the results to justify super long oil change intervals that are much higher than the manufacturer recommends.
@@RobertHancock1 I've seen manufacturers (Mini specifically) recommend 20K+ mile oil change intervals via their dynamic oil indicator so I'd trust Blackstone results vs what the manufacturer recommends. Safest bet is to just change it every 5K for the life of the vehicle (normal daily driver, not work or track use) as I'm not aware of any synthetic oil that is depleted prior to that.
Cheap parts are always more expensive than quality ones. Pay a little now but a lot more later. I learned that lesson the hard way with eBay brake parts. And, change your spark plugs on time. Too-wide gaps are murder on coils. Lastly, MSD and Accel used to make a quality product years ago. That ended when they changed their country of manufacture. You can guess where.
Awesome video and you're not being unfair to MSG. Lots of aftermarket junk floats areound out there, and this video shows how easy it can be to diagnose with IDS. You fix it and 1/2 hour later at the most you're back on the road.
The exact coil in this video left me stranded on a family vacation towing my RV. Thought I was doing smart routine maintenance by replacing all the stock ones out with these MSD's. Truck had 140k miles on it at the time and figured it couldn't hurt. Well, lost an MSD coil only 6 months later.. truck couldn't get out of its own way and engine bucking hard.. dash lights flashing.. it wasn't happy. VERY stressful situation where it happened and when it happened. Swapped the coil out with a Standard brand (only one I could get at the store in a rush.). Fortunately 3 years and 27k miles later the other 5 are still good... But... I keep the old stock spares with me in the bed just in case. TO be fair though... In that original 140k miles.. I had two of the OEM's fail too. One when the truck was 2 years old and the other 3. Both covered under original warranty.
It seems coils claiming to be upgrade and better than OEMs fail very often. Yet, after market general replacement coils don't fail as often (with exception of cheapo no-name ones on eBay or Amazon.). My truck has been running Autozone duralast coil replaced by previous owner, and they ran just fine. I just replaced them with Delphi coils, but kept old ones.
This guy is awesome and he helped me redo a time chain on my Ford Explorer, which consisted of removing the damn engine. Worked great ever since. Couldn't have done it without his video. This guy is my RUclips mechanic.
4.0?
@@quintonnava1441 yes had to pull the damn engine.
Dude, Thank You! I put a different brand of Red coils in my Expedition, stars with an E.. anyways i did plugsand those POS coil, was great for like 3 months, then started misfiring again! Watched this video and the light bulb came on, thankfully i saved all my old coils, so i put all new plug boots and my old couls in and its running great again, Thanks again!
This is why I always keep my old parts also. He could easily throw the OEM coil back on if he would have kept them.
I had one coil fail on a 4.6 Expedition in 23 years. The bolt broke off in the head. I just stuck a new coil down in the hole and let gravity hold it down. That was about 15 years ago. So far, so good.
That was the old 2 valve motor? Brian said those were known to fail and the new ones are much better.
I put the MSD coils on my 14 F150 5.0 about 20,000 miles ago and no problems. But good thing I didn’t throw away the factory Ford ones.
I've been a DIY guy for 36 years. I learned long ago that when it comes to electrical and ignition parts, OEM parts are 99.9% of the time way better than the Aftermarket parts. This brought back memories of buying aftermarket coils for an old truck I owned. As soon as I walked out of the parts shop, I tested them with my VOM. They were bad right out of the box, just carelessly made with denting in the coil housing. Pay a little extra and get OEM on electrical and ignition parts!
Totally! 100% especially for electrical/ignition equipment
Agreed, I've done the same- I always test before installing. And keep a spare coil and old wiper blades with the spare tire :)
If they come from a country that starts with "C" and ends in "A", most likely the parts are crap.
Best to pay for OEM quality parts on ignition coils, alternators, starters. Bosch, Denso, Delphi, etc.
Your right, I'm always use oem Ford one, never bought performance shit again.
Good advice. I have had 2 F150's and an Expedition. All lasting well over 300,000 miles. Proper maintenance and driving is key to it all.
This video is so true. Great video Brian, something to also put out there is how a aftermarket IGN. coil can and will burn out the driver in the PCM. The drivers will not take over amperage and kick. Most of all the PCM's I have replaced on Fords was due to aftermarket parts, or letting your tune-up go way to long before doing it and the coil is overheating due to the wide gap. But i will agree with Brian, if you keep up with the Spark Plugs and Coil Boots, that coil will last the life of the vehicle. Same as for most ford sensors. Hope your video helps people!
True but I see the PCM coil drivers fail way less often than the coils themselves.
I'd give you 10 thumbs up but the computer lets me give one only.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on amsoil & blackstone.
Agreed. I use all oils really but if he has input then talk about it.
Amsoil is one of the best. I'd love to hear his "thoughts" otherwise.
@@ltrs1212 amsoil is full of strange marketing and more people would use it if they sold it at parts stores like autozone.
@@ltrs1212 i’ve had amazing success with it over the years. And I get my oil analyzed every single change. I’ve used all the oils and I like what Amsoil has to offer so I just stuck with it if I had to use Rotella or Valvoline, I would too, because they are good oils as well. I also like to use hot shots, but they have been back ordered for sometime.
I didn’t get his comment either , Amsoil is really good, probably he’s talking about the marketing in extended periods of service.
Absolutely 💯 .
No aftermarket junk on my f150.
My 2011 3.5 ecoboost pushing 280000 miles. Original coils, boots, timing chain. Only thing i change are the plugs every 55 to 60000 miles. Anything over that and your taking a chance on getting misfires due to cracked spark plug porcelain insulators.
Synthetic or blend and what interval are you changing, Mike. You are definitely doing it right.👍
No wonder you've got 280k on the clock. Oem is the key success.
That's impressive! I have a 2011 3.5 Ecoboost as well and I had to replace the timing chain and two of the cam phasers. Replaced water pump as well since they already in there. I bought (actually stole it. Got a good deal😁) it from the dealership with a stretch chain. Paid a hefty price to get it fixed but still came out better than if the dealership would have fixed it. They would have asked double for what they had in it. Nice job on the preventive maintenance!
Totally agree. My original coils on my 2004 5.4 lasted 165,000 miles. I replaced them with MSD and then had one go out after 12,000 miles and then another at 20,000 miles. I replaced with a cheapo coil and traded it in but if I was going to keep it, I would have bit the bullet and paid for OEM. It's sad because back in the day, MSD and Accel were great. Now, not so much.
I think its because on the old vehicles the ignition systems were very basic now everything has to be coded ( i.e injectors and ignition coils calibrated to a certain cylinder) and of course the company cant make it to exact OEM specs due to patents
@@renj6531 - I think also the older products were made in North America. The MSD blasters I got were made in China. I just think when the company was bought in 2004, it went downhill.
@@dewrus2153 YUP!
MSD means might suddenly die.
@@jesse75 another tarnished reputation due to outsourcing I remember back in the 90s early 2000s MSD was all the rage
True...I started putting my old ford coils back in one at a time almost immediately..misfires galore from the aftermarket knockoffs
I have a relative who worked for Ford as a technician when engines were switched to the "coil on plug" design. He said that when they had vehicles come in under warranty that had issues that were narrowed down to secondary ignition, they would replace the coil, boot and spark plug. Ford sometimes would call the old coils back for analysis and found nothing wrong with them. He said that's when Ford told them to replace the boot as that is what the causes of those misfires is. I've always thought that the ignition coil boots are the most overlooked item when doing a tune-up or diagnosing a misfire problem by certain people. Experienced people don't overlook them.
What goes wrong with the boot?
@@AbcAbc-sp1od : Just like the boots on spark plug wires on older style distributor ignition systems, the rubber or silicone boots break down from heat cycling & age.
Thus, the high-voltage spark travels (shorts) through the boot to the nearest piece of metal (ground), rather than through the spark plug electrode within the cylinder, like normal. Thus, the misfire.
@@turbodiesel4709 thanks! 🙏
@jdtractor man : I often question people's "testing methods".
It's a well-known fact that many electrical components can & often do exhibit intermittent failures, but not complete failures.
Sometimes, ignition coils will randomly fail from excessive engine heat, or simply too many heat cycles during their "in service" lifetime.
I've found that due to the time and money involved, if I have a cylinder misfire due to lack of spark, I will replace either the spark plug or the ignition coil... Most often, both.
Very rarely do I bother with replacing only a plug boot, because a new boot always comes with a new coil.
Time is money & comebacks are both expensive & damaging to a shop's reputation.
Ok Mr ford technician I have a real question I have a 2018 ford fusion 1.5 cylinder 1 and 4 is miss fireing I know better to put the brand standard on it I was wondering do need buy one motor craft at a time can I just go with the duralast ignition coil 2 for 160 or motor craft 1 for 144$ I need good judgement
Watch the fanboys whine. I tell people to only buy Ford coils also, they don't realize how good they are. I used to be in the automotive testing world and Ford spent a lot of money testing those parts.
Good to know, thanks
Truth
Reeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!
@@submarineaudiollcI bought aftermarket Denso coils for my 3.0L and the Ford part number was covered up by a marker
@@mechtechtools838 what was the price difference per coil ?
I run a 16 RAM 5.7 hemi and had my own coils tested against aftermarket ones years ago and found my own coils actually hold up better than aftermarket in high rpm better and produced better spark to my plugs. So I learned many years ago to stick to OEM. Through the dealer VIN matched parts. And no issues.
I one hundred percent agree with you on this. I’ve seen so many aftermarket coils go out within a year of replacing them for no reason.
155k miles on my 16 3.5eb bought the truck from an older buy with 80k miles so far I've 0 cam phaser rattle 0 issues change the oil every 5k miles with Pennzoil platinum 5w-30 like you suggested with Ford oil filters and run an oil catch can and gapped .26 spark plugs every 20-30k miles. Best channel hands down for Ford information and repairs!
Spot on. Been running original stock coils on my 2013 mustang with 11 psig boost for 6 years with no issues. Save your money for things that really improve the vehicle.
A few months ago I changed plugs on my 2006 F150 5.4 3v at 268,425 miles. I put on aftermarket coil boots because I thought they would need replacing. I reused my 16 year old 268,425 mile coils. Truck runs like a dream. The old boots looked great. I don’t think they actually needed changing.
I love your rants. Soooo true!! If I have a dead coil, I will sometimes go aftermarket, if my customer is broke. My local parts house carries Motorcraft, and that is what I recommend. Love all the vids, especially when u go off on certain oil products. 😂😂😂
Thanks for the video. People also need to know that replacing just one coil can usually remedy the problem as well. I have fixed a lot of engine problems by replacing only 1 spark plug, and nothing else.
Back in the early 2000's in college, our automotive instructor proved to us that the factory coil is better than Accel or MSD. We were young and in disbelief but after seeing the results we learned pretty quick
Yeah I learned the hard way. I bought an mad coil for my 1995 z28 Camaro LT1. Drove a few weeks then out of no where the car shut off while I was driving. Manage to get it started back up after several tries an made it home. Wouldn't start back up. Let car cool off. Went looked sunder hood was thinking what the could it be. Lucky for me I kept my old oem coil that I took off an just decided to start with that since I know some new parts go bad from the box. After putting the old coil back on it crank right up. Didn't have no problems from that anymore since I wrecked the car a year later. Never bought no aftermarket ignition nothing for any car after that. Always open for me.
Unless you are running hi-po drag/track racing stock coil is fine. It's all based on the PCM anyways, it sends out signal to the power required. Just did a tune up last month... my truck feels like it has 20 more hp... actually it probably has back the 20hp it lost due to needing a tune up over the years.
How did he prove oem coils were better? The upgrades claim to put out higher voltage, that would make them better.
@@keithbellair9508did you watch the video?
@@donniev8181 you could show a video of anything failing once..
Im not flinging mud at MSD as a company, but this is spot on. I have 98 LS1 Camaro that I put MSD coils on. Almost year later (I didnt drive the car that much it was a weekend cruiser at best) #2 coil failed. Warrantied all the coils, swapped them, 2 years later #6 failed in the same manner. I went back to factor GM coils which have been on flawlessly since 2010. This is spot on - the MSD coils may be OK for drag and road course but the riggers of daily driving just chew through them. The coils have their place, just not needed on daily applications
Hey bro thank you so much. I'm so broke. I lost everything after COVID. And can't do my profession anymore. You literally made it so I can have a vehicle. Blessings to you
Just swapped all six plugs and coils on my 2011 at 126k miles but went all OEM despite the extra cost, and now I'm extra glad I did.
Before doing it I spent an hour reading forums like F150online and found nothing but negative comments from other owners who tried fancy 3rd party units like this. Thanks to your other video I made sure they were actual OEM parts and not knockoffs even though I ordered from a trust worthy source. New style bag with breather hole and new coils were a dead match for the old in all the ways your pointed out.
Thanks to your videos I'm never afraid to tackle a new maintenance project on my own, and it's made me love my truck all over again.
Agreed 100%. I took my old F150 for a tune up to the shop and asked for Motorcraft coils. He said they used another brand and never had a problem. I let him change them, every coil misfires. He replaced them all to my request at a prorated amount.
Brian, you are the man!!! Fantastic vid. You speak the truth and back it up with real world experience and with your great videos! This is one of my favorite automotive repair channels.
I'm glad Brian clarified that the old 2v coils would indeed fail far too often because I've had my fair share of that happening :) ...swapped coil (left plug alone) and problems solved.
Is there an OEM upgrade to the DG 508?
Same here on an 01 F150 5.4 2V
your channel is always getting better and better, you saved me thousand of dollars in my 2008 expedition and I always will be grateful for that.
I was a Ford tech for many years and I always use OEM always Ford engineers designed these products to work on Fords
Years ago when I had to changed my plugs in my 2006 F-150 I asked my friend should I change my coils. Now, he works for Toyota, and he told me to leave them alone they don't fail often. Even though he doesn't like Ford he said some of their OEM parts are good to great. All I did was change the boots in case they were cracked from the heat per his suggestion!!!
90% of the OE coil problems is the green fuzzy corrosion on the spade terminal where the spring mounts to the coil behind the boot. I've cleaned hundreds of these and they were good for a long long time.
IMO a lot of good coils end up in the trash, something else is what is causing the issue. Like the boot, spring, plug, corrosion etc. But the coil is easy to replace so people just throw the parts cannon at it.
wd you mind maybe doing a video on this
How do you clean it? You have to take it apart?
@@sdvten 2017 f250 owned since new, zero dielectric grease on any of my coils from factory, have removed 4 now with massive corrosion. Cleaned the springs and they are usually ok. Did have to replace one though. At 67k.
@@akfury83 Ford usually doesnt use any grease. The 6.2l coils have an issue with the little resister puck inside the coil and spring. The little puck leaks and causes corrosion sometimes ruining the coil and causing the spark to burn a hole in the side of the coil snout and the spark shoots to the engine or fuel rail. I have ran into this problem myself. I put some dielectric grease on the puck to help prevent damage from the puck corroding but not much you can do. Denso makes Motorcraft COPs so you can save a lot of money buying denso COPs from Rockauto.
2019 f150 2.7 I literally was just looking into upgrading my coils, just because it’s got 95000 and wanted to “upgrade”. Thanx for this video bro!!!!! I’ll save my money
Hey Brian good to see your boy working with you while he’s in trade school handing it over to another generation to continue being a fair and honest technician hope to see more of you guys working together soon blessings to you both
I have 263thousand miles on my 2014 coyote and still have the original coil packs with no misfire issues 😎
I've been following this channel for along time, i remeber watching videos filmed while he was still working for the ford dealer way before he started on his own. I learned alot from his insights. He is the go to ford guy period. I wish he was local to me I'd beg to be his apprentice and work with him, because his ford expertise is worth gold in this industry. He's dedicated his craft to ford and as a tech that works on everything, I know a true specialist when I see one. Sorry for the rant, but good info on ecoboost ignition misfires. I'll keep in mind that stock coils rarely fail. Most service writers will recommend coils once the tech diags a misfire and condems even just one coil. Good info, keep it coming its always appreciated!
Yep, put accel coils on my 18eb to and made it a week before the number 2 coil started misfiring. Swapped it out with the number one coil to verify the misfire. Put the OEM coils back in it, ran like a top.
Thank you for the video. I have had another mechanic who said the same exact thing….when you replace a part, make sure it is a Ford part or you’ll have problems. You have really helped me and I appreciate you.
Brian is the man! If he says it, he knows what he's talking about
Good on ya mate
Theres plenty of videos on RUclips saying aftermarket coils are a waste of money
In fact, OEM ford are considered pretty good. There’s a guy who has a three valve. He basically says nine times out of 10. The coil just needs cleaning and you remove it clean the terminals on the top take the boot off the spring out clean the spade terminals and then buy a kit with a new boot and spring 9.9 times that fixes it. …….
That’s what I’ll be doing save myself 1000 bucks on MSD. All the best from Melbourne Australia
2011 EB @ 60k problems with carbon trking. Ford dealer wanted $480 to change plugs & boots. Changed my own plugs, cleaned the boots and coated inside boots with dielectric grease. $40 and no misfires. Change plugs every 40k,never had another misfire problem. 150k same boots and coils.
Couldn’t agree more. I tried MSD coil never worked right since new and the accel was a dud right out of the box. Never again. Good video
Had a V10 Super Duty 2v. I used to keep a pair of spare coils in the door pocket along with a code reader. Seemed like that thing dropped a coil every few months. My friends father was a mechanic for a large rental van company who's policy was replace all coils when one failed, so I had a constant supply of good coils.
The difference is called PPAP. OEM parts are subject to a PPAP inspection. It's an added expense and it's time consuming. It's a step that aftermarket companies don't usually do. One of the reasons they are cheaper. It insures the parts you get meet or exceed the design tolerances and performance specifications required by engineering. In addition Ford is also very good at making design revisions to known failure points so the parts are continually improving if they do find a reoccurring issue.
Many people doing You Tube automotive diagnostics say the same thing. USE ONLY OEM PARTS ESPECIALLY ELECTRONIC OR ELECTRICAL PARTS!
The early 5.4L and 6.8L 2 valve engines had upgrades with the ignition coils, but they finally got those right and after that eliminated the misfire problems. The only time I saw misfire problems after that was due to extreme spark plug wear, which meant that high voltage spark had to go somewhere!
Good one Brian! Sometimes ranting gets the point across especially when the cost for the OEM coil is quoted. In the end the customer finds out, sometimes the hard way, what works!
Yes! I saw this on my 5.4L. Put in Excel and they failed. Changed multiple and after 4 of 8 I returned to Ford and 60,000 miles never had a problem since.
166k on my 2014 F150 Ecoboost with factory everything. Still 0 problems. Yeah, I do maintenance to replace wear items like plugs and so on, but no engine trouble. I did hear the dreaded timing chain rattle on startup maybe 8 time last winter, but none since then so I'll wait that one out. Anyway, my truck has been very reliable. I do maintenance and that's it. I'm not anal about testing oil, spending $100 on oil every change (around 4k miles for me). I just use normal good name brand synthetic oil, ford oil filter, ford plugs and that's it.
LAST PERSON TO TOUCH IT SYNDROME
Common sense isn’t all that common and for the most part the obvious is only so when simply explained !! Good job as always Brian 🙏😁
191,000+ miles on my 2006 4.6 coils.
Changed plugs twice, boots once. Original coils working fine.
Appreciate the video. I think there is a fine line between OEM and Aftermarket for different makes and models. I would like to see a video on where you were going with AMSOIL and Blackstone.
I would like to see where he was going with that too I’ve been using Amsoil in my power stroke for going on three years now because I believe it’s a very good synthetic oil I’m not saying it’s the best but I think it’s one of the best and less he can convince me otherwise I am going to stick with using it.
Most people that used amsoil in their ecoboost ended up blowing their engine. A few youtube videos with guys replacing their engine because of amsoil.
@@walterlundblade well no offense to them but I would trust someone like project farm from RUclips that’s done several comparable tests with all the motor oil’s and AMSOIL is one of the best and what most people don’t know is that they’re one of the few that are actually 100% synthetic where is the other companies that say full synthetic are actually only partial synthetic blended and still mixed with dinosaur oil because legally they can do it I don’t know anything about the Blackstone that he’s referring to but I know in project farms testing of many of the other brands they fall short in burn off and in lubrication and cold temperature flow never owned the eco-boost far as I’m concerned they’ve had problems since day one despite any oil you put in it I wouldn’t say any of the RUclipsrs blew it up just because of adding Amsoil to it but that’s just my opinion for however many videos that are out there from RUclipsrs trying to blame Amsoil for blowing up their eco-boost I could show you 100 other RUclips videos of why the eco-boost fails as a engine period lol
@@DaveofAllTrades75 project farm is pretty good youtuber. The ecoboost engine is pretty reliable and packed with power. Not saying they dont have flaws but every engine does. The biggest issue with the ecoboost 3.5 is the weak chain and the oil cam phasers. Ford has done a lot of upgrades to the failing timing issues. Other than that the 3.5 ecoboost engine is a beast. Now im not sure if amsoil is turbo rated or whats going on but several people i seen on youtube was using amsoil and their engines blew up. There are 2 oils Motorcraft or mobil 1 full synthetic best for the ecoboost never heard a shop say use anything else.
Another problem eco boost owners have is installing tuners and turning up the boost. Anytime you start messing with the OE tune your asking for problems.
I have an 08 F-150 5.4 3v and I try to almost always buy O.E. FoMoCo parts, and this is why. People wanna make fun of me for that but whatever, this is why. Thanks for the demonstration. 😀
So glad you suggested to reuse My factory coils on my 2009 5.4 3v at 235,000 miles when you done my Full timing job , now at 260,000 miles it's still humming right along 😎
Hello,
I did that, I changed all 8 then had other issues that were repaired, assumed that is what caused the need to change the coil packs and spark plugs. Then less then a month had to change the other side. So they lasted about one year. I learned the hard way. Thank You for your knowledge and time.
I agree! And I learned from experience about 5 years ago. 10,000 miles on a set of MSDs and one failed. I replaced the whole set with OEMs and learned my lesson. I had used their complete sets two other times years ago and they did ok, but all in all the realization is that the OEM coils are best. I did use Densos on a V10 F250 though as I'm fairly certain they make them for Motorcraft or at least did at that time. The markings were identical. Those were about $10 cheaper per coil and have been running great for years.
Still I learned and will only do OEM/Motorcraft or Densos (assuming each time they still pass the quality check! Things change often in the aftermarket world, usually for the worse, so good to not just rely on memories of 2015 parts quality)
MSD probably changed to cheaper China imitation plugs and just painted them red, lol.
i put a new set of accels on my 99 f259 5.4 and a couple failed .now i have my old oem in place of the failed accels
Perfect explanation and live time video Proof Brian! Great job. I'm retired and past 70 years old, this has been my method all through my career. I still use OEM on all electrical items. Spend a bit more and do the job once. I drive two ford trucks one is 24 years old and runs like it did when new, the other is a 2006 5.4 three valve and same situation OEM and no repairs by anyone but myself or a trusted ASE technician occasionally. Yes I'm nuts I have my own quality scan tools to make sure its correctly diagnosed. Again great proof video, I'm definitely sharing this.
I just replaced my coils with Denso (made in USA), hopefully they will hold up. The coils had been changed before I bought the truck with chinese coils. BTW, the truck has 289,000 miles on the 5.0 engine.
That is the only other brand I trust.
Same here on a V10 F250 - and I hope Densos remain good quality. Assuming they are or at least were building them for many OEs
Denso is the actual maker of Motorcraft coils. Only difference is the MC branding on the coil.
@@flynlow43 Yep that's what I saw on mine. I'm always worried some day that'll change. Hopefully not since Denso does so much with OEs. Still, so many names in the past used to be high quality OE providers but now their consumer stuff is junk. Denso still good for these is great news.
I had a problem with denso O2 from rock auto for my 2003 accord. Crap 30 day warranty on O2’s from rockauto.
The obd2 readiness codes for secondary O2 would never set even after 10,000 miles.
I eventually bought a Bosch from autozone 1 year warranty and the codes set in a few hundred miles.
So it is still hope it work when buying the good name brand lol
Brian, I don't care what they say about you when you are not around! You are the best!!!
Thanks again for all the useful tips and walkthroughs.
My truck is almost restored thanks to your library.
Merry Christmas!
OEM coils have definitely improved since the early 2000’s. The coils in my 2001 VW Passat were prone to failure. The ones in my 2016 VW Golf have run for almost 120,000 miles without a problem.
you are correct I work on VW and other European car and the first generation 1.8 T were pretty weak but now the newer cars they are very reliable and the models like the VR6 and 2.0 L 8 valve engine that the coil was bolted to the engine block or head VR6 they tended to crack last week I got into the shop and 2014 Jetta with the 8 V engine it had a misfire in high humidity and it was a new set of NGk plug wires it put a new set of BERU wires made in France they are one of the best if you don't want to go OEM .
GM trucks have had awesome coils since the new body style came out in 99..
I had to get a new coil pack for my mk4 vr6 back around 2006 iirc, probably about 6mo-1yr before they came up with the Ford coil swap for them.
Damn thing was 360$ at the time.
I've still got the car, and drove it till 2012 or so and parked it in the garage when it needed timing chains.
In 2019 I finally got it out and did the chains.
The coil looked great, no corrosion or anything.
Metal and plastic doesn't mix too good.
If the metal corrodes, it acts like a tree when it grows thru the middle of a rock and it's only a matter of time until it's toast.
I'm no scientist,but over the years I've seen that ruin alot of sensors and things like that because rust never sleeps.
Not sure if I'd do the Ford coil swap or not, it probably depends on how much an oem one is.
@@V10PDTDI it's not a cure ,but an insulator plate can help em from getting the engine heat soak.
I coulda made one ,but for 20$ Phenix engineering has a piece of phenolic and longer screws for those vr6 type coils.
Great video Brian. I agree on the aftermarket crap, leave it on the shelf.
I sell auto parts and what I find really funny is how many customer insist on replacing all the coils for a tune up. Doesn't matter make or model.
You're absolutely correct. If I had my choice OEM would be the only ones. Customers think that cheaper is better. I have a shelf with a pile of used coils and they are better than the aftermarket. Thanks!
I have a 2011 F150 6.2 with 200K, I had sparking. These coils have a terminal for an extra cylinder with a wire. I bought 8 coils on Amazon for under $100. The coils are over $100 from ford each! The boots are serviceable but the OEMs coils were fine, but the boots were disintegrating. But for that price, I changed them out. Have the OEMs in the truck. If they fail I will just use the boots, those are fine. So far 1000s of miles they are fine, truck runs like a bear! ENA brand. Tons of real, good reviews. I think that company is an OEM.
@@alb12345672 Thanks!
@Shannon Smith That's awful when you're so limited. Thanks for sharing!
@Shannon Smith That's because you guys are upside down!
@Shannon Smith It depends on the car , as an example , I can still get new genuine spark plugs , cop for our 14 year old falcon & a genuine coil pack ( VDO ) & plugs for a 22 year old falcon , sometimes it becomes harder to get genuine when no longer available from ford but if the part is from a known manufacturer , it can still be soured , just not through ford .
I tried some once upon a time in my 2012 F-150 Ecoboost.. they must not have been shielded or something but they caused so much EMF interference that the computer went crazy. Idle was crap and wouldn’t rev. Threw a few codes related to PCM fault or something along those lines. Even the headlights were flickering weird. I quickly returned it back to the factory coils and all was good. Glad I didn’t fry it!
Thank you so much for your honesty and straight forward approach to these issues. You’ve helped me diagnose and fix my fords from your very informative videos.
Thanks for sharing that with us, Brian. I could tell how you were genuinely wound up over that!
So glad I came across this video as I was about to buy the MSD coils for my 16' 3.5L Ecoboost, wow what timing. FoMoCo coils for me with new plugs. Definitely subbing this channel!!!!
Good decision and very good timing. Very good luck as well, Brian is the best. You can spend all day watching some of these videos and get great advice. He goes into detail and he explains step by step as he shows you and he tells you why he does things. Hands down, I think this is the best channel on RUclips when it comes to car/truck repairs. If you want a ford, especially a truck this channel is essential. I'm not just talking about saving money, I'm talking about something more important, getting peace of mind and knowing you are doing things right. I've actually taken my vehicle to him and I don't live close to there. I planned it out and did a road trip and I'm not the only one, a lot of people here have done the same thing from all over the country, he's a good. Of course I've done a lot of my own work from watching his videos, I've tried things that I might not have otherwise. Good luck to you
I remember buying an Accel Coil for my HEI distributor years ago - always had a high-RPM miss. Went back to my OE GM HEI coil and things went back to normal. I fell for the hype! Go OE or go home! Thanks for reenforcing that belief Brian!
Yes and no from me. Can be hit or miss truthfully, just dont buy the cheapest ones available . Had a few factory coils go after 160k, which is fine with me, but I'm that guy who's been running champion plugs and accell super coils for 120k without issues. This is on a 5.4 3v, brain's favorite engine lol.
I did the same thing, I thought I was "UPGRADING" yup I was wrong about three weeks after installation I started getting a miss I contacted Summit Racing for a replacement set in which they replaced the entire set, Cranked it up everything was fine couple months later the problem came back. I saw your post to stay factory so I went to ford and got OEM its 2 years later and runs like a champ!
It happens all the time! When a costumer comes with after market part I told them I won't do the job because of the reason.
What kind of costume were they wearing?
Customer
learned this with honda. carried that lesson into my 5.4 2009 nine F150. still running great.
I wish I could have gotten OEM when I had to replace mine the first time. I was low on cash at the time so I got some Amazon specials. Well, after 2 months the boots swelled and got stuck as well as become super brittle. So I got a set of MSD coil packs. That was 2 years ago and they still work fine. I do have a full set of new OEM packs in my trunk ready to go for when these go out which they will.
I put 8 coil paks on 2008 E250/4.6, one of major auto parts supplier. Lasted 4 years, Just bought FYP for $16 a piece and runs fine again.
Wow.
I've been using a set of MSD coils in my truck. And they have been in my V8 Mercury Mountaineer for almost 2 years. I never had an issue at all.😮
But I'm going back to OEM on my next tune up.
Your are 100 percent correct Brian! I have been burnt by these ignition coils myself!
My car had 440,000 miles and I have never changed the coils. This guy is interesting. He says to buy OEM parts and then he makes a video about FAKE OEM parts to watch out for. I was at the dealership the other day and I asked my parts man (that I have done business with for 25 years) if I bought his parts can he guarantee they weren't fake. He said he could. I feel so much better now. Great video!
Yes He was talking about Rock Auto selling parts labeled as GM or Ford or Mopar factory parts and they are really fake Chinese knock offs. If You lay the boxes side by side You can see the box is a copy and a poor one at that. It's really going on they are making fake parts over seas.
Looking into swapping my coils in my victory. I'm glad I ran into this video. I don't want to waste money, just to pull the tank again in 6 months.
Could not agree more about aftermarket parts. Oem are the only way to go for long term consistency in maintaining an optimum running engine. The sensor dept for aftermarket situation is even worse. Even mechanical parts don't escape. The hype is very credible and most people are taken in, only to realise down the road, they've been hoodwinked.
Don’t ever apologize for being passionate and sincere. Anybody with the brain who is also genuinely and sincere will recognize that don’t apologize because idiots feel stupid about paying extra $500 for coils that they didn’t even need. How many perfectly OEM coils do you think it’s thrown out? When I go to the junkyard, I see which coils from Audi use and stuff I can’t help myself but take him out and try to sell them online or something that I need.
I’m so glad you posted this video. I almost got suckered into buying those “new coils. And a programmer. For better horsepower👍🏻
I have cr performance exhaust manifolds and turbos. Intake (dry), turbosmart ebov and tuned. The power is out of this world.
Turbos are modified factory borgwarner turbos that can produce 24psi of boost. My truck will light the tires with ease.
I own a auto repair shop, I’ve been a professional automotive technician 20+ years. I 100% agree with using factory coils and plugs. Before I opened my shop a few years ago pretty much every shop I’ve worked for used aftermarket crap and there was always issues with electrical parts and engine parts. The 4.6 and 5.4 engines I swear every time I installed an aftermarket coil it would come back in a week with another coil bad then another one that happened so many times. Coils can also go bad from using aftermarket plugs I use to see this at the Saturn dealer on the 2.2 eco tech where someone put in some junk aftermarket plugs the the Bosch 4 electrode plugs well the resistance was astronomically different so the coil and ignition modules would go bad from the massive difference in ohms. I remember one of my friends brought her cobalt into a shop I worked for, I check it out and sure enough it had some junk plugs like the 4 electrode Bosch and the coil and module were shot, her and her husband come into the shop to talk to me and said he replaced all that stuff 4 times and it keeps happening, so I explained it’s from the wrong plugs, she yells at her husband telling him to stop trying to play mechanic, her husband didn’t believe me, I got my ohm meter out to show him the difference, he didn’t understand what ohms were so I said basically what’s going on is with the plugs u put in it’s like going 100mph in 1st gear that’s what the plugs are doing the the coil and module, he seemed to understand but still did seem confident in what I was saying he said those plugs are supposed to be the best thing to put in the car that’s what the guy at the part store said, I said dude the parts store guys dont professionally work on cars us shops do! The engineers that built and designed this engine are using a certain spark plug for a reason, millions of dollars went into the development of every engine so who do u think knows better the engineers or this 19 year old at the part store? He didn’t wanna spend the money but his wife asked me “is this 100% going to fix the problem “? I said yes and she said fix it. The husband said well it usually starts running like crap within 100 miles so we will see if this fixes it. A few months later they came in for an oil change so I go talk to them to ask how it’s running and she said “it’s running great that definitely fixed it! My husband is no longer allowed to play mechanic anymore. He does it saying shops are too expensive they are a rip off but we paid more with him trying to do it because 2 times we had to pay for a tow truck, the part store only let us warranty the parts once plus I didn’t have my car. Like he wants to do my brakes because the parts are 100 bucks but I would rather pay the shop 350 and the it’s done in an hour and it’s done correctly.” Her husband looked all pissed off but that stuff happens all the time with husbands trying to fix their cars to save money and it ends up costing more
I fell for this back 30 years ago on a new 1995 Ford Probe GT I owned. I was trying to squeeze out 1-2 more HP I guess.?...I replaced the ignition setup with a "high performance" setup and it ruined the plug wires within 5,000 miles. I went back to the original and all was well.
Thank you for the video!
Then the transmission barfed.....
Wouldnt that mean it was working though?
@@BuddyTheWolfYT The wires were also part of the kit....not the OEM.
@@daveharness70 Ok. Did you gap the plugs higher? Some of the kits say to do that.
@@BuddyTheWolfYT I likely did whatever the kit said. It's been a minute...I don't recall the details.
I've been running delphi branded coils over 6 months now... no problems yet. However, I agree OEM are always the best choice.
I bought a Dorman transfer case motor a month ago just to get me back on the road. First snow storm- NOTHING. Took it to my local shop guy to check out the electrics, everything was good. It was the shift motor that arrived defective and I installed it that way. SO I got a motorcraft one and had him install it. I learned my lesson- only OEM on these trucks for important functioning parts.
Yep. I put Accel coils on my 4.6 and it ran terrible after less than a week. Put the factory coils back on and all was good.
Not only on the newer models. This isn’t a new thing. Back in the early 2000s, these aftermarket coils were junk on our Lightning trucks. Brands like MSD, Accel and Granatelli Motorsports. Not just coils, aftermarket mass airflow meters too. O2 sensors too.
I really value your videos…even if they don’t apply to me. You’re genuinely concerned, for the consumer. Thank you!
Indeed! However, did he say that Amsoil is all hype compared to other synthetic engine oils?!🤔
As a shop, we have very good luck with the Amazon brand performance coils for the fords. Can’t speak for the newer motors but the 2v and 3v motors they work great
I worked on a '15 F150 3.5L Ecoboost and the CarFax showed a dealer had put in spark plugs about 20k miles before we got it.
It had misfires under light boost high-gear loading and we really didn't know why it was happening, OEM coils and replaced plugs, etc.
Pulled plugs to check for carbon tracking, but nothing was wrong. Come to find out that that dealer had installed plugs for the N/A 3.5L. 😮😮😮😮
Your video answered my question thank you. Have an intake leak, car going into the shop intake coming off, decided to change the plugs. Was going to put aftermarket coils on until I saw your video. I was kind of in the researching phase. Your video drove it home. my research is over as I said thank you. I'm just going to leave the coils the way they are if it isn't broke don't fix it. And I will be subscribing.
I fell for the MSD coils and put them on my 2016 F150 5.0. 6 months later one failed on cyl 3 and fried the ignition driver in the the ECM. I ended up having to replace the ECM which cost me 600 dollars. After I replaced the coils with MSD which cost 300 dollars. Never will I ever make that mistake again.
I'm avoiding that by canceling my order with American Truck
100%!!! I've had the same problems with EVERY aftermarket ignition coils I've used on my 2012 Ecoboost. The stock coils are the best for this application.
I never buy aftermarket parts for any ignition, emission, or timing parts. In the long run it always turns out to cost more and causes different issues.
I've been using cheap eBay parts for years on all of my cars and never had any issues and don't even know anyone that's had any issues using the cheap eBay coil packs I just put one in my pathfinder with 60,000 Mi because the OEM One failed at 60,000 MI
2006 Mustang GT 4.6L 3V, 186,000+ miles, still on original FoMoCo coils, runnin' like a top.
Now I've jinxed it, haven't I? :(
Have used accel coils for years with no problems 😊 never tried msd
Hey Brian. Great video. Could you elaborate more on Amsoil and Blackstone Labs? I don't use Amsoil but I can't see why it would be bad besides it being expensive when other oils would perform similarly. Blackstone Labs seems to give good data for the price. What's your take on them?
I'm in the same as you. I found this video from him about Amsoil:
ruclips.net/video/ttGQW217wTM/видео.html
His complaint appears to be that it's a waste of money.
But nothing on Blackstone Labs. I wonder what he means by that. I've used Blackstone labs like once or twice and I thought they were pretty awesome. Maybe he's going to say that doing a periodic check is a waste of money, maybe some people think they have to have their oil analyzed every oil change. I only did an analysis when I had a decent transmission leak for a long time to check of there was any damage and the analysis checked it was all good.
I personally wouldn’t put Amsoil in a lawn mower.
Heard and witnessed problems after using this oil. The neighbor is still chasing problems from use it. Yes it was the proper oil for his application.
One potential issue with Blackstone is potentially people using the results to justify super long oil change intervals that are much higher than the manufacturer recommends.
I have the same question. Oil analysis can sometimes help you find an issue before you know it, like small amounts of coolant or fuel in the oil.
@@RobertHancock1 I've seen manufacturers (Mini specifically) recommend 20K+ mile oil change intervals via their dynamic oil indicator so I'd trust Blackstone results vs what the manufacturer recommends. Safest bet is to just change it every 5K for the life of the vehicle (normal daily driver, not work or track use) as I'm not aware of any synthetic oil that is depleted prior to that.
Cheap parts are always more expensive than quality ones. Pay a little now but a lot more later. I learned that lesson the hard way with eBay brake parts. And, change your spark plugs on time. Too-wide gaps are murder on coils. Lastly, MSD and Accel used to make a quality product years ago. That ended when they changed their country of manufacture. You can guess where.
Awesome video and you're not being unfair to MSG. Lots of aftermarket junk floats areound out there, and this video shows how easy it can be to diagnose with IDS. You fix it and 1/2 hour later at the most you're back on the road.
The exact coil in this video left me stranded on a family vacation towing my RV. Thought I was doing smart routine maintenance by replacing all the stock ones out with these MSD's. Truck had 140k miles on it at the time and figured it couldn't hurt. Well, lost an MSD coil only 6 months later.. truck couldn't get out of its own way and engine bucking hard.. dash lights flashing.. it wasn't happy. VERY stressful situation where it happened and when it happened. Swapped the coil out with a Standard brand (only one I could get at the store in a rush.). Fortunately 3 years and 27k miles later the other 5 are still good... But... I keep the old stock spares with me in the bed just in case.
TO be fair though... In that original 140k miles.. I had two of the OEM's fail too. One when the truck was 2 years old and the other 3. Both covered under original warranty.
It seems coils claiming to be upgrade and better than OEMs fail very often. Yet, after market general replacement coils don't fail as often (with exception of cheapo no-name ones on eBay or Amazon.). My truck has been running Autozone duralast coil replaced by previous owner, and they ran just fine. I just replaced them with Delphi coils, but kept old ones.
Yeah, I've run duralast coils and haven't had many problems with them either!