About that heat reflectors, you were mixing up two different heat transfer mechanisms there, Dan. Namely convection, which is through movement of warm air, which does indeed get blown away by the wind, and radiation. Radiation you can reflect, not very well with a stone or wood, but partially. A mylar blanket is great for this, see Far North Bushcraft and Survivals videos for this.
He's not just mixing up, but belittling the use of warm air flow. To deflect heat as thermal energy you would need something with high albedo - white and sleek, or better reflective like a mirror. But for warm air shield a high albedo is not a requirement, as the warm air reaches the normal obstacle (i.e. of any color and surface) and, if the object is big enough, the warm air slows near it and can accumulate a bit. That kind of process allows to decrease heat loss. That's why sitting near a campfire with your back against the opening of your tent makes it warmer for you than doing the same in a open area, even if the weather is still.
A space blanket or even a black plastic garbage bag will reflect infrared. If you put a layer of that over the heat reflector, it will work pretty well. I used to use a space blanket on a stick frame about 2.5 ft high as a reflector when I camped. I found that putting it at least 4 ft from the fire would keep it from melting. I would set it up to reflect into my lean-to with the prevailing wind hitting the back of the shelter. It is fairly easy to make it a shallow chevron shape so that it will kind of focus the heat where you want it. That worked really well; even in late winter. It made a good difference to how comfortable it was to sit or cook there when it rained or snowed.
A panel creates a low pressure zone, which will cause the fire to "point" at the wall. Same phenomena responsible for smoke following you around a campfire. Can easily simulate this yourself by blowing on a lighter from behind a piece of paper--the flame counterintuitively moves toward the paper
Well it sounds like we have a wrong term issue. At least the fire " reflector" works. Mean helping heat not to escape much helps. Like a blanket for example. One can say it reflects heat while using that term is incorrect. But blanket basicly traps your body heat and slows it down from escaping the bed to quick. So in bed our body is the heater not the blanket. Hope my english makes sense as its my 2nd language.
My scouts will use a military casualty blanket(tarp grade space blanket w/ grommets) for fire reflectors. They build the frame and mount it shiny side to the fire. Works well and added to a Kochanski type super shelter..they stay toasty.
Love your videos, but i gotta kind of disagree with you on windblocks, as an ex military survival instructor, we used to teach that if possible , while in mountainous terrain, find an area with large boulders too set up a camp fire, that blocks the wind, but the rocks also absorb heat and will radiate the heat back out even after the fire has gone out (as long as the fire has burned for a while), but finding a natural rockfall that is safe enough, or a small depression in the side of a cliff, just have too be careful that while the rocks are absorbing heat they are not going too fall from fracturing due too expansion from the heat, so only certain rocky terrain/boulders, but it works
Rocks absorb heat and re-radiate it. But I doubt that you were teaching that people should take the time and energy build a vertical wall of ROCKS 2-3 feet high, in a survival situation. As you will know, anything that is wet has a very limited capacity to absorb heat because the water evaporates and far more heat is dispersed in that manner than in re-radiation, which pretty much rules out those dinky little porous walls of green sticks. Windblocks, yes. Windchill is a thing.
My 2 pence is, living on the moors all the wood is wet and damp, we were camping in winter and the wood was frozen, it was -8C and we really needed dry wood to burn so the heat reflector acted as a wood dryer of sorts, we would take the logs out of the slots to burn while putting frozen wood back into it to dry it some, this worked and we had a comfortable night ever though it was a faff to do. Sometimes it is good to block the light of your fire if you don't want attention and gives you the feeling of being a little more enclosed.
Some years back, my boys and I were in some colder, wetter conditions than we expected in AZ high country and despite our best efforts, we just couldn't get a fire hot enough to burn well...and rather than retreating to our tents, we grabbed some flashlights and went looking for better wood. Led to an awesome discovery- someone had left behind some scrap plywood pieces that we set up as break/reflectors and it concentrated so much heat, we had a roaring hot fire in no time. So from then on, I carry a sheet of plywood cut up into roughly 2' x 2' sections and we employ that as a starter method in cold weather- never fails, and it gets things hot in a hurry. Makes the sitting by the fire so much more enjoyable!
I know you are in competition with Corporal's Corner, BUT I know you are not in competition with Corporal's Corner. I hope that makes sense. You both teach, but you both teach so diametrically different. You and CC are both great. Thank you. P.S., I certainly have time to learn from each of you!
There is no competition, the corporal is a cry baby spends as much time complaining as he does with his boring videos of builds that nobody will ever copy, so they mean nothing…
Well the other channel only approach survival from a tactically military point of view, not from the point of view of a civilian hiking in the woods that might have got lost.
@@benterwellenI'm sure your comments keep CC up at night 😂 Don't throw the baby out with the bath water. A good majority of CC's videos are super valuable.
I have been outdoor for my whole life and still learn something new🙂 My Granpa kinda went crazy prepper's on our childhood. For me it was playtime. 🥰 Anyhow I allways look for more easy and better improvement for my camp.🤩
Well if you want to set up a heat reflector you need a material that reflects infrared radiation. So you need something shiny or white. A light yellow or light gray color can work too. So if you find a painted plywood board in those colors for an example it can work as a heat reflector. Best option is if you have one of those silvery emergency blankets with you to set up around the fire. PS: You need to place your self between the fire and the heat reflector to gain maximal effect.
If you use one of those make sure it's not too close to the fire because it can melt. I find a couple of long pieces of aluminum foil work well with minimal danger. It also takes up next to no room in your back pack.
Wooden stone or earthen heat reflectors are simply heat dams that stop the flow of heat in undesired directions . They do absorb heat…. But even then much of the heat absorbed with radiate back out in the direction it came with a small portion slowly penetrating through the material …… Its just that calling it a heat reflector is simpler to say than a single word that hasn’t been invented yet…
Meanwhile, I've followed you a long time, just under a different handle. I LOVE the way you do things and your style of explaining. You even make things "I know" interesting and sometimes make me rethink my position on the subject. Then I go out and Do.
Thank you for clarifying how reflectors work. Dark wood or dark rocks, dirt, etc. will not reflect the infrared radiation coming from a fire, but the surface does heat up and in turn radiates heat. Shiny aluminum, stainless steel, mirrors, will actually reflect the heat but you are unlikely to have any material like that.
Hi Dan, I'd just like to thank you for your video. I've been watching and learning from you for a few years now, and I really like your teaching style. I'm an Explorer Scout unit leader in Scotland. I'm hosting a survival camp at the end of November for my Explorers. We have a 5 acre woodland for use, but it is long and narrow, and exposed to strong south westerly winds. Fire 'reflectors' are a great piece of kit for preventing cook fires from being blown flat. My Explorers love nothing more than chopping stuff up and setting fire to it. Braw!
Hit the nail on the head when you mentioned that your shelter blocks the wind, if you set it up right, and the fire is in front of that. I love an 'emergency' type blanket, arcterus/grabber, something like that as a shelter backdrop to radiate the heat it traps from the fire onto me.
Also, bear in mind that CcB is eastern US, It doesn't get dry here but a few weeks a year. Small grass fires are rare and make the local news and will be talked around town for a couple of weeks. This past summer (2023) is the first time I've ever heard of a local government merely asking people to reduce water consumption. This was because we had less than 1/4" (6mm) of rain over the span of a month. I'm not saying we don't take any fire precautions here, just saying it isn't a tinderbox 99% of the time like it can be out west. We can get away with a lot more much more often.
#1 way to spot a tourist camp site here is the stone fire ring… cute… but not going to actually stop the fire. Safer to clear the entire area around the fire of leaves and debris that could catch.
This is what I do. National forests don't even allow the creation of fire rings anyways. I mean if you disperse it when you leave then that's fine but I rarely stay more than one night so, not going to bother. Plus everything I clear from the area is usually decent tinder and kindling.
Hello from romulus Michigan brother thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise and for taking us on your adventure through the woods and GOD-BLESS
Most of the heat that you get from a camp fire is in the form of radiant heat. The properties of objects determine how good they are at adsorbing or reflecting that radiant heat. Good reflectors like mirrors and shiny metal sheets are rare in the bush. Light colors reflect more heat energy dark colors adsorb more. I grew up in Phoenix AZ. I could walk barefoot on concrete in the summertime but not asphalt. There is a huge difference between them and it is all because of the color. If you use logs for a reflector wall split them and face the light color interior to the fire. Or better yet make it out of light color stone. Putting a reflecting wall behind you instead of on the other side of the fire is effective too. Another thing these reflecting walls do it create a draft that pulls the smoke upward instead of toward your eyes.
I'll build a heat reflector when I'm cold weather camping. But I make it actually reflect heat by putting a couple sheets of aluminum foil over it. Works good and the wood you use won't catch on fire, unless you get it really close. Keep it back 6 inches and it is good.
Hello 👋 Dan, greetings from Northern California. Thank you for sharing another informative video. All the best to you and your family. Stay safe out there. 🤗
I dont often do the heat reflector thing they dont really do much to reflect but what they do very well is dry out my next logs to go on the fire. I cut a bunch and rotate them in and out of the wall to dry them out
They work well to make your campfire less visible at night over long distances. They work well against strong winds blowing hot embers around. They work well to hang damp clothes on to speed up drying time. There are many ways that they can be effective.
Mors Kochanski said the wood fire reflectors do not work to reflect heat, I figured the argument was over at that point. Appreciate your reinforcement of what Mors taught.
I used to put my wood in a TP configuration, and someone showed me how to put it in a log cabin setup. 4 layers high, It gives me lots of light and heat, and it also burns for a long time.
Good video & tips. I think the thing with walls or anything that blocks the wind is that it prevents dissipation and not so much the reflection thing. I've used simple mylar blankets to trap the air around the 🔥 and it seemed to work pretty well.
I made my very first wind blocker this last weekend. Looks bushcrafty and gives the impression of a well established and traditional feel to the camp site. It just kinda looks cool if you ask me.
They do indeed reflect heat. Dan got it wrong. This topic comes up about every 3 or 4 years and it is ALWAYS knocked down when people do their own research. It is usually brought back up by someone who read a misleading article that has been debunked multiple times. But people often read something and take it as truth without investigating for themselves. So enjoy your reflector. It works.
@@zippitydoodah5693 I always feel that the gaps in between the sticks / logs should be filled in with mud or clay if you can find a source. I don't know how much more heat you'll get reflected back at you but Psychologically, to me, seeing a gap like that has the notion of not holding or rejecting heat.
Great tips on fire rings snd lays. Here in the PNW we like to suggest adding 4"-6" of mineral dirt on top of the soil so the fire is much less likely to ignite tree roots that will carry ignition back to a tree and become a wildfire, this happens often in our forests.
@@maxsparks5183 I think it's dirt without a lot of organic stuff in it (as opposed to humus, peat, etc). But in normal conditions, it's unlikely for tree roots to catch fire. First, it helps to be a root of a dead tree (otherwise it's essentially green wood), second the root has to be basically in contact with the fire, and finally one end needs to be open to the air so it keeps getting oxygen. A wildfire can cause tree roots to burn, I've seen holes in the ground after a wildfire, where a stump burned out. But the other way around? A campfire causing a wildfire through a root is, IMO, very, very unlikely. Much more likely an ember blew out of the campfire and landed in leaves and stuff. Then somebody tried to blame a root, not their own inattention to nearby leaf piles.
If I'm planning on staying at a base camp for several days, then I carry a roll of aluminum flashing 6 foot by 10 inches with small holes cut along the bottom for air flow to the fire in a horse-shoe shape! There are tabs cut and bent with holes in them so I can stake down the flashing or use rocks to counter the wind! I carry it rolled around my sleeping bag and it weighs very little. If it's only an overnighter, I don't make a campfire, I just use a metal stove inside my tent but only to cook with! If it's cold, then I find and heat up a rock on the stove, wrap it in a small towel and tie it in a small cloth bag (crown royal bag) and place it in the bottom of my sleeping bag! The flashing helps with wind, serves a fair chimney (for it's height) and reflects heats onto my tent!
Another great tool for the tool box!! I have learned lots from you as well as Corporals Corner, making me completely pliable for any situation that may come along!!!!
Your fire needs air. Under normal conditions, placing three thick logs in a U shape that is open to the prevailing wind works well. Use the crisscross method to quickly build a hot bed of coals and catch the logs on fire. In an extremely windy situation, dig a Dakota fire pit. Ensure that the air intake hole faces the prevailing wind. Try it. You'll like it!
The simplest way of making a fire containment that I was taught was to just cut out a double row of tidy divots as a fire pit, maybe 2-4" deep, then use the upturned divots as the fire containement, and when done, just dump the water from any washing buckets/tubs and the fire bucket into the fire pit, flooding it until the water stops boiling, then flip the divots back in to cover the pit and walk around a bit on it to drown any smouldering roots. The end result should look more like a muddy bit of ground that's been visited by a few boars than the remains of a campfire. If a camp stove is used instead,I was taught that ashes and coals is to be dumped in the pissing pit (if it hadn't been used yet, the one who's emptying the stove damn well better need to take a piss too, or have a washing up tub to empty over it.
I Australia it is mandatory to clear at least 3m around your fire in the bush to reduce accidental bushfires. At various times of the year we also have total fire bans, a handy tip is to take lemon juice with you so you can use it to cook any fish you catch. Being Australia we don't need to boil water to drink, we just take plenty of beer. Besides fish fck in water.
One fire I use quite a lot is the keyhole fire, but I generally dont make a ring. Just set up rocks on one side to hold my pot or grating keep a good fire burning and move the coals over to my rocks. Boil water and throw heat with the fire, cook fish/ bannock/ whatever in the "keyhole".
The only heat that reflects is radiant heat. So a wood wall would have some effect if the bark was removed. How effective would need to be tested, but I imagine it would be minimal when compared with the heat being removed from you by the wind convection. Convection is an unrealistic heat transfer mechanism in an un-contained area. Any air that’s heated will simply rise. Conduction is only possible with physical contact. Heating rocks has been a proven method for generations. So a log wall is likely less of a heat reflector and more of a wind breaker.
Do you feel that this is a temperature increase due to the barrier reflecting radiant heat? Or do you think it may be prevention of heat loss via convection (wind chill)? If it’s reflective, then is the bark removed or not? Without you explaining your experiment, I can only fill in the gaps with assumptions. I am assuming that what you have there is a wind break - an important aspect of staying warm.
One thing you didn't mention that I have noticed about a reflector like this is how, in some circumstances, it seems to provide a bit of a chimney effect for smoke in some situations. Any thoughts or observations about that?
Two things people should be aware of concerning campfires. Wet rocks can explode when they get too hot! A friend of mine lost an eye through exactly that. Secondly, your fire can spread above ground as you said, but also underground unseen by the camper. Particularly in woodland & forest areas where the fibrous tree roots can smoulder for weeks before surfacing later and setting fire to the area. It is good practice to dowse the fire pit with copious amounts of water when it has gone out. Also dig down and feel if there is any heat left, if so dowse again.
first time I made fire in the woods I noticed fire getting out away from the fire area the ground catching fire but I was able to smother it also had water. to douse it but that was a lesson about fire safety my experience of building fires in woods is still limited but as long as you use small fire for 2-3 hour duration and douse it out before leaving site with snow or water you are basically safe
About that 'heat reflectors' - wood or rocks don't really reflect heat, you might use some mylar blanket for that (kept at a safe distance), but the main reason to put up a wall behind the fire is to distract the smoke! Smoke is always drawn to obstacles, you might have seen the smoke to follow you, if you're standing close to it. Without a backwall your shelter is the tallest obstacle and the smoke is drawn towards and into it - with a wall higher than your shelter, the smoke rises at the backwall, keeping your shelter free.
Thank you for calling them a wind block, and clearly explaining why they don't work as a reflector. It's nice to see a RUclips Bushcrafter get it right.
Appreciate the info Dan. While I won’t go out of my way to build a fire ring, I’ll sure use an existing one at a campsite provided there is enough deadfall to pick up. Almost every federal/state park/management area I’ve been to in the last year has so much pressure finding wood is a pain. Now at my bushcraft camp at a friends farm? Different story. I have a nice fire ring of low stones and a decent sized piece of shale that I used as a wind block more than a heat reflector. A bushcamp can be changed/upgraded as one sees fit so it’s all in one’s taste. Speaking of taste, while a dehydrated meal will suffice on a multi-day hike, a cast iron seared ribeye and veggies with fresh bread out of a Dutch Oven is where it’s at. Pair with a little KY brownwater and hot coffee afterwards? Yeah I choose the old ways an established, comfortable bushcamp 1 bazillion times over humping trail over multiple days. Whatever your choice, GET IN THE WOODS!!
I've found good value in raising a wind break behind my fire when I'm using a low, open-fronted shelter like a tarp or lean-to, as it allows the smoke to get a few feet higher before the breeze blows it sideways, ideally over my shelter or over head. Ideally I've set things up so the wind is blowing ACROSS the front of the shelter, avoiding any wind eddies taking it inside, but the wind can change. I will make them a good deal larger than the one you have here, and out of the fuel I intend to burn if it's damp, since it will dry decently stacked near the fire a step or so back. Just enough room for a couple tripods to hang pots on a ridge pole. Not necessarily worth doing if its a one-night sight, but if I intend being there for a few days it's nice. Also a nice wall to dry socks, pots, etc. And it definitely gives camp a more settled feel. With fire rings I tend to use a horse-shoe of stone if anything because I find it foolish to cut firewood into stove-length billits if I'm not using a stove. Push logs save a lot of energy and add some utility and a lot of adjustability to the fire.
The "reflector panel, wind shield, fill-in-the-blank-with-your-favorite-name-for-it, is indeed a useful tool if you are gonna be onsite for at least 3 days. It does reflect heat, but not enough to make a difference. ( Use a thermal imaging scope and see ), it might deflect a bit of wind, but you addressed that well enough already - but what it DOES do is direct the heat and smoke toward the surface of your panel/shield ( _I use a standing stone_ ) keeping the smoke out of your face. If you are the tallest thing next to your fire, the smoke will chase you all night. One tombstone style rock will save you from a week's worth of red eyes and coughing. But whaddaIknowaboutit, right?
@@edubs9828 If they did one on this, I am unaware o it. But I have seen the data from a decently run experiment. It showed that the temperature increase _in front_ of the "reflector" was *roughly double* the temperature increase to _the side_ of it. So if it is a bitter cold night you'll be camping in, then it may be worth it to build a "reflector" behind your fire. But I think your energy is best used by building a Mors Kochanski Super Shelter if you have the materials. Nothing beats it for staying warm in the bitter cold, if properly built. But if you don't have the necessary materials for that, and you are "inconvenient camping", a "reflector "will definitely increase the heat between your shelter and your fire , just about by double. That's not a difference I care about when I camp. I am older now and I use modern tricks to stay warm. Old Dan got this one wrong. I think maybe he read an article in which his claim was justified by using the inverse square law of thermodynamics. Unfortunately that article has been disproven, "mythbusted", "destroyed", more than once. The inverse square law only applies if your source of heat is a "point source" - and a campfire is not. It's not even close. Experiments have been done, _with control group data_ , that prove what Dan is saying is . . . . let's say _mistaken_ . But I don't know how old Dan takes being "mistaken" so I don't push the point.
@@zippitydoodah5693 I think reflected heat was used when it should be more of a heat sink that radiates heat back. It probably is more effective when it's really cold with the wind blowing. Even then not everyone would consider it effective especially over night. In a long term camp where the logs have been able to absorb a lot of heat, it would be radiating noticeably when the fire dies down. This would be much like the heavy iron or stone plate at the back of fireplaces of old.
I remember reading in one of my old books (Calvin Rutstrum? Bradford Angiers? Not sure) that these wooden backings are not worth having... unless they are burning. Then they work.
Regarding the stone fire ring, you should Never ever use stones found in any Water. The stones contain water and at a certain temperature they can Explode, AND INJURE someone or kill them. I've heard of that happening, be safe ,and be smart tyvm
There are comments comparing other content creators. I care more about the content. Don’t care how I feel about a person. RUclips is not a social call. The concept is important. I’ve seen people say the Kelly kettle is a waste of time in survival. Since we talking about fire. Personally ; the Kelly kettle is a great tool. I like to hear others opinion. The Kelly kettle blocks wind, portable and uses less wood than a fire ring.
What about the benefits of retaining heat by using a stone backing that absorbs the heat, or a fire up against a rock wall. This would be beneficial if your fire is quite close or part of your shelter.
What about using a Thermal Mass? like the large stone behind you while you were talking about wind blocking and heat refraction. If the stone is absorbing heat from your fire it could continue to radiate heat after the fire dies down at night.
Thank God Pa, gives us every type of fire experience we ever need and all the materials for whatever fire we want when we want......to bad there are more and more citiots expanding into our peaceful forests and dumbing them up thank God your showing them how not to Maui our state
Heat travels by Conduction, Convection and Radiation. It seems the benefit of the of the heat reflector is mostly for radiated heat, and of course as a windblock. Certain materials radiate heat better than others, the wood it seems would not be so great for that.
As a former scoutmaster I agree totally with your opinions in this video. I have found that wind breaks help pull smoke towards them and seem to help manage being smoked out by your fire. What is your opinion on this?
I love the way everyone came to the conclusion reflectors don't work, right after Mors Kochanski came out with it, now all bushcrafters have have suddenly researched the subject and discovered they don't work.😂 Back in the 70s Mors promoted reflectors and everyone used them. So my conclusion is people don't really come to their own conclusion.
well, the only thing that is going to reflect heat is a mylar blanket(it was designed to reflect infrared) which can be useful in cold weather. That said you MIGHT be able to do something similar if you have a lot of charcoal dust on a flat surface as it also reflects infrared pretty well, though how much of a difference that would make I have no idea(I imagine that if it was a situation where you absolutely needed it, it probably wouldn't save you but again, I'm not certain). I would think that stone however would be good at simply retaining heat and acting like a radiator once the fire dies down adding a bit more longevity to the heat(though again, how much I have no idea).
I have a question. In the episode titled 7 Bushcraft Skills for the frontier with Jon Townsend. Where do I get a wool blanket the size of the one in where you showed how to cover up in a diamond shape. Mine is no where near that big. Thanks for the help. Joe W.
Trust me, fire has a way of waking you up out of the deadest sleep.We used to burn cedar in our teepee and those embers would pop out something fierce, randomly in the middle of the night and land on your sleeping bag. You knew to sleep lightly, because you better jump up and get on it and figure out where that burning coal landed when you hear that pop!
Also, isnt a bigger danger from sparks flitting off to dry brush, unawares, than tree rootscatching fire? Deprnding on the wood species, popping flying sparks are dangerous.
ANY "heat" reflected by a backstop will be 10-15 feet up when it "reaches you" on the other side of a fire. It's basic physics. A simple pool table side view would prove it to you. IF you have a lean-to to "catch it", you'd get "some" benefit. Meanwhile, a wind block can help in some circumstances. Build it up wind. Don't make it vertically perpendicular. Set it up three feet away and lean it toward the fire about 25-35 degrees. Any air will ramp up and make an O2 feed into the fire. If you slant it away, it'll make a breaker, but the edge eddies will blow sparks and coals everywhere if it's gusty. Don't take my word, try it. 😊
Reminds me of an article I once read in a Men's Magazine, re. What to Do If Lost in the Woods. The Experts said "It's late, and the Weather is going to shįt. Gather a large amount of Logs to burn & keep you warm during the Night". I thought "Wait, wtf ! You're gonna waste all your Energy to drag Logs around the forest; then sleep out in the Open ?! How about saving Energy by building a Debris Shelter, gather Sticks for a small Fire; and have more Time left to Rest & Sleep ?!".
Great video Thanks! I like the way you present these ideas. After reading some of the comments I find it demeaning to try and prop YOU up by putting someone else down. I find you, Dan, quite able to stand on your own two feet. Your instruction and demonstrations are first class. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the next video!
It was about the way CC would take the time to make a more extensive shelter and the person would not do that. My reply was not meant to be a gimmick. I like and sub both Sean and Dan.@@sinisterthoughts2896
Yep, I found that if you need a wall built to block wind you either set up wrong/wrong place or it’s windy enough that little wall isn’t going to make any difference.
If one's going to make the effort of building a wall, it's time to considder if it's not better to just go all in and build a small hut or cabin anyway.
In the United States, nearly nine out of 10 wildfires are caused by people not being careful. Help Smokey prevent these types of fires by learning to be careful and helping others do the same. Make sure that the grownups building your next campfire follow all the rules below, and tell them to check out Campfire Safety to learn even more. Make sure you are at a site that allows campfires. Make sure there are no burn bans and it's not too windy. Dig a pit away from overhanging branches. Circle the pit with rocks. Clear a 10-foot area around the pit down to the dirt, removing anything that could catch on fire. Stack extra wood upwind and away from fire. After lighting, throw the match into the fire. Never leave a campfire unattended; an adult should supervise the campfire at all times. Keep a bucket of water and shovel nearby. Never put anything but wood into the fire. Do not pull sticks out of the fire. Do not sit on the fire ring or rocks around the campfire. They will heat up quickly and they'll stay hot for a long time. When it's time to put the fire out, dump lots of water on it, stir it with a shovel, then dump more water on it. Make sure it is COLD before leaving the campsite. If it's too hot to touch, it's too hot to leave!
I've noticed a fire ring tall enough to keep more than 3/4 of the fire protected barely gapping the area between the ring and the ground to help control sir flow to save on firewood add more of a gap to get more air flow for when you need the fire hot other than that like he's saying a lot of these are to help prevent the fire from spreading also like a fire ring for setting cooking grates on I like a tripod to cook with but the ring and grate setup is better because the pan and grate won't be swinging and moving around like on the tripod just depends on how and what you're cooking.
Great video, Dan! Has anyone used a mylar emergency blanket or car windshield sun reflector as a heat reflector by the fire? (I am curious about the efficacy of these materials for cold weather camping or emergency/survival situations.) Thanks & Happy Trails! 🇺🇸 🦅
Cody Lundin made a shelter with Dave Canterbury on dual survival. The back wall (the one away from the fire) was a mylar blanket, clear plastic sheeting on the front.
Coming from a dry climate with a high fire risk…. There is no substitute for removing dry fuel if your intention is to prevent fire spread. A little ring of rocks IS NOT ENOUGH. Rake the leaves and debris away for at least a few feet.
About that heat reflectors, you were mixing up two different heat transfer mechanisms there, Dan. Namely convection, which is through movement of warm air, which does indeed get blown away by the wind, and radiation. Radiation you can reflect, not very well with a stone or wood, but partially. A mylar blanket is great for this, see Far North Bushcraft and Survivals videos for this.
Came here to say this, thank you
Shout out Far North Bushcraft.
Lonnie and Connie are the best!
He's not just mixing up, but belittling the use of warm air flow.
To deflect heat as thermal energy you would need something with high albedo - white and sleek, or better reflective like a mirror.
But for warm air shield a high albedo is not a requirement, as the warm air reaches the normal obstacle (i.e. of any color and surface) and, if the object is big enough, the warm air slows near it and can accumulate a bit. That kind of process allows to decrease heat loss. That's why sitting near a campfire with your back against the opening of your tent makes it warmer for you than doing the same in a open area, even if the weather is still.
A space blanket or even a black plastic garbage bag will reflect infrared. If you put a layer of that over the heat reflector, it will work pretty well. I used to use a space blanket on a stick frame about 2.5 ft high as a reflector when I camped. I found that putting it at least 4 ft from the fire would keep it from melting. I would set it up to reflect into my lean-to with the prevailing wind hitting the back of the shelter. It is fairly easy to make it a shallow chevron shape so that it will kind of focus the heat where you want it. That worked really well; even in late winter. It made a good difference to how comfortable it was to sit or cook there when it rained or snowed.
A panel creates a low pressure zone, which will cause the fire to "point" at the wall. Same phenomena responsible for smoke following you around a campfire. Can easily simulate this yourself by blowing on a lighter from behind a piece of paper--the flame counterintuitively moves toward the paper
You are totally right. I often use a natural leantoo so I do not get a backdraft that pulls the smoke at my camp.
Exactly. A "fire reflector" is actually a smoke diverter from your shelter.
It only also becomes a "reflector" (radiator) as well if it's stone.
Wheres my lighter? Hehe
So now we must make a plan to get smoke not to follow me 😂
Well it sounds like we have a wrong term issue. At least the fire " reflector" works. Mean helping heat not to escape much helps. Like a blanket for example. One can say it reflects heat while using that term is incorrect. But blanket basicly traps your body heat and slows it down from escaping the bed to quick. So in bed our body is the heater not the blanket. Hope my english makes sense as its my 2nd language.
My scouts will use a military casualty blanket(tarp grade space blanket w/ grommets) for fire reflectors. They build the frame and mount it shiny side to the fire. Works well and added to a Kochanski type super shelter..they stay toasty.
Yes. We learned so much in the scouts. I loved going to D-A in Michigan for scout camp.
Love your videos, but i gotta kind of disagree with you on windblocks, as an ex military survival instructor, we used to teach that if possible , while in mountainous terrain, find an area with large boulders too set up a camp fire, that blocks the wind, but the rocks also absorb heat and will radiate the heat back out even after the fire has gone out (as long as the fire has burned for a while), but finding a natural rockfall that is safe enough, or a small depression in the side of a cliff, just have too be careful that while the rocks are absorbing heat they are not going too fall from fracturing due too expansion from the heat, so only certain rocky terrain/boulders, but it works
You are correct.
Rocks absorb heat and re-radiate it. But I doubt that you were teaching that people should take the time and energy build a vertical wall of ROCKS 2-3 feet high, in a survival situation.
As you will know, anything that is wet has a very limited capacity to absorb heat because the water evaporates and far more heat is dispersed in that manner than in re-radiation, which pretty much rules out those dinky little porous walls of green sticks.
Windblocks, yes. Windchill is a thing.
He mentioned finding a location like you said.
There is no one best way to do anything. My number one rule for anything outdoors is assessment.
My 2 pence is, living on the moors all the wood is wet and damp, we were camping in winter and the wood was frozen, it was -8C and we really needed dry wood to burn so the heat reflector acted as a wood dryer of sorts, we would take the logs out of the slots to burn while putting frozen wood back into it to dry it some, this worked and we had a comfortable night ever though it was a faff to do.
Sometimes it is good to block the light of your fire if you don't want attention and gives you the feeling of being a little more enclosed.
Some years back, my boys and I were in some colder, wetter conditions than we expected in AZ high country and despite our best efforts, we just couldn't get a fire hot enough to burn well...and rather than retreating to our tents, we grabbed some flashlights and went looking for better wood. Led to an awesome discovery- someone had left behind some scrap plywood pieces that we set up as break/reflectors and it concentrated so much heat, we had a roaring hot fire in no time. So from then on, I carry a sheet of plywood cut up into roughly 2' x 2' sections and we employ that as a starter method in cold weather- never fails, and it gets things hot in a hurry. Makes the sitting by the fire so much more enjoyable!
I know you are in competition with Corporal's Corner, BUT I know you are not in competition with Corporal's Corner. I hope that makes sense. You both teach, but you both teach so diametrically different. You and CC are both great. Thank you. P.S., I certainly have time to learn from each of you!
There is no competition, the corporal is a cry baby spends as much time complaining as he does with his boring videos of builds that nobody will ever copy, so they mean nothing…
It would be great to see them come together and collaborate
Well the other channel only approach survival from a tactically military point of view, not from the point of view of a civilian hiking in the woods that might have got lost.
@@benterwellenI'm sure your comments keep CC up at night 😂 Don't throw the baby out with the bath water. A good majority of CC's videos are super valuable.
I have been outdoor for my whole life and still learn something new🙂 My Granpa kinda went crazy prepper's on our childhood. For me it was playtime. 🥰
Anyhow I allways look for more easy and better improvement for my camp.🤩
Well if you want to set up a heat reflector you need a material that reflects infrared radiation. So you need something shiny or white. A light yellow or light gray color can work too. So if you find a painted plywood board in those colors for an example it can work as a heat reflector. Best option is if you have one of those silvery emergency blankets with you to set up around the fire.
PS: You need to place your self between the fire and the heat reflector to gain maximal effect.
If you use one of those make sure it's not too close to the fire because it can melt. I find a couple of long pieces of aluminum foil work well with minimal danger. It also takes up next to no room in your back pack.
Wooden stone or earthen heat reflectors are simply heat dams that stop the flow of heat in undesired directions . They do absorb heat…. But even then much of the heat absorbed with radiate back out in the direction it came with a small portion slowly penetrating through the material ……
Its just that calling it a heat reflector is simpler to say than a single word that hasn’t been invented yet…
@@MrSheckstr I think the word you are looking for is: thermal radiation.
Dribrom I use tin foil 😅it works man
Just dont cook yourself
Meanwhile, I've followed you a long time, just under a different handle. I LOVE the way you do things and your style of explaining. You even make things "I know" interesting and sometimes make me rethink my position on the subject. Then I go out and Do.
All the times I’ve been camping, I’ve never come across a perfectly cut square rock slab like that!
Looks to be a paver of some kind, doesn't it?
I've come close using the hammer of my tomahawk and wierd layered shale crap we had near my old house.
Need to camp in a graveyard! But not if your a heavy sleeper
The other side says "RIP Mom" !
They're pretty common here in PA.
Thank you for clarifying how reflectors work. Dark wood or dark rocks, dirt, etc. will not reflect the infrared radiation coming from a fire, but the surface does heat up and in turn radiates heat. Shiny aluminum, stainless steel, mirrors, will actually reflect the heat but you are unlikely to have any material like that.
Space blanket. Everyone should have one or two in their kit.
Hi Dan, I'd just like to thank you for your video. I've been watching and learning from you for a few years now, and I really like your teaching style. I'm an Explorer Scout unit leader in Scotland. I'm hosting a survival camp at the end of November for my Explorers. We have a 5 acre woodland for use, but it is long and narrow, and exposed to strong south westerly winds. Fire 'reflectors' are a great piece of kit for preventing cook fires from being blown flat. My Explorers love nothing more than chopping stuff up and setting fire to it. Braw!
Watch out for the midges, Kristian :) .
Hit the nail on the head when you mentioned that your shelter blocks the wind, if you set it up right, and the fire is in front of that. I love an 'emergency' type blanket, arcterus/grabber, something like that as a shelter backdrop to radiate the heat it traps from the fire onto me.
Also, bear in mind that CcB is eastern US, It doesn't get dry here but a few weeks a year. Small grass fires are rare and make the local news and will be talked around town for a couple of weeks. This past summer (2023) is the first time I've ever heard of a local government merely asking people to reduce water consumption. This was because we had less than 1/4" (6mm) of rain over the span of a month.
I'm not saying we don't take any fire precautions here, just saying it isn't a tinderbox 99% of the time like it can be out west. We can get away with a lot more much more often.
#1 way to spot a tourist camp site here is the stone fire ring… cute… but not going to actually stop the fire. Safer to clear the entire area around the fire of leaves and debris that could catch.
This is what I do.
National forests don't even allow the creation of fire rings anyways. I mean if you disperse it when you leave then that's fine but I rarely stay more than one night so, not going to bother. Plus everything I clear from the area is usually decent tinder and kindling.
Hello from romulus Michigan brother thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise and for taking us on your adventure through the woods and GOD-BLESS
Most of the heat that you get from a camp fire is in the form of radiant heat. The properties of objects determine how good they are at adsorbing or reflecting that radiant heat. Good reflectors like mirrors and shiny metal sheets are rare in the bush. Light colors reflect more heat energy dark colors adsorb more. I grew up in Phoenix AZ. I could walk barefoot on concrete in the summertime but not asphalt. There is a huge difference between them and it is all because of the color. If you use logs for a reflector wall split them and face the light color interior to the fire. Or better yet make it out of light color stone. Putting a reflecting wall behind you instead of on the other side of the fire is effective too. Another thing these reflecting walls do it create a draft that pulls the smoke upward instead of toward your eyes.
I'll build a heat reflector when I'm cold weather camping. But I make it actually reflect heat by putting a couple sheets of aluminum foil over it. Works good and the wood you use won't catch on fire, unless you get it really close. Keep it back 6 inches and it is good.
My backyard fire ring is a semi circle made of bricks. The smoke hugs the wall and doesn't chase me. My clothes don't even smell like smoke.
Mine is made of grass
mine is made of *fire*
Hello 👋 Dan, greetings from Northern California. Thank you for sharing another informative video. All the best to you and your family. Stay safe out there. 🤗
I really appreciate your online manners. Thanks for all the tips and tricks.
I dont often do the heat reflector thing they dont really do much to reflect but what they do very well is dry out my next logs to go on the fire. I cut a bunch and rotate them in and out of the wall to dry them out
They work well to make your campfire less visible at night over long distances. They work well against strong winds blowing hot embers around. They work well to hang damp clothes on to speed up drying time. There are many ways that they can be effective.
Mors Kochanski said the wood fire reflectors do not work to reflect heat, I figured the argument was over at that point. Appreciate your reinforcement of what Mors taught.
I used to put my wood in a TP configuration, and someone showed me how to put it in a log cabin setup. 4 layers high, It gives me lots of light and heat, and it also burns for a long time.
I’ve never used them as a reflector or wind block. I only use them to guide the smoke up and out of my face.
Good video & tips. I think the thing with walls or anything that blocks the wind is that it prevents dissipation and not so much the reflection thing. I've used simple mylar blankets to trap the air around the 🔥 and it seemed to work pretty well.
I made my very first wind blocker this last weekend. Looks bushcrafty and gives the impression of a well established and traditional feel to the camp site. It just kinda looks cool if you ask me.
Nice one tonytootuff😊
Congrats!!
A semi permanent Camp🥰 I love makeing em. Grats finishing it🤗
They do indeed reflect heat. Dan got it wrong. This topic comes up about every 3 or 4 years and it is ALWAYS knocked down when people do their own research. It is usually brought back up by someone who read a misleading article that has been debunked multiple times. But people often read something and take it as truth without investigating for themselves. So enjoy your reflector. It works.
@@zippitydoodah5693
I always feel that the gaps in between the sticks / logs should be filled in with mud or clay if you can find a source.
I don't know how much more heat you'll get reflected back at you but Psychologically, to me, seeing a gap like that has the notion of not holding or rejecting heat.
Great tips on fire rings snd lays. Here in the PNW we like to suggest adding 4"-6" of mineral dirt on top of the soil so the fire is much less likely to ignite tree roots that will carry ignition back to a tree and become a wildfire, this happens often in our forests.
What’s mineral dirt?
@@maxsparks5183 I think it's dirt without a lot of organic stuff in it (as opposed to humus, peat, etc). But in normal conditions, it's unlikely for tree roots to catch fire. First, it helps to be a root of a dead tree (otherwise it's essentially green wood), second the root has to be basically in contact with the fire, and finally one end needs to be open to the air so it keeps getting oxygen.
A wildfire can cause tree roots to burn, I've seen holes in the ground after a wildfire, where a stump burned out. But the other way around? A campfire causing a wildfire through a root is, IMO, very, very unlikely. Much more likely an ember blew out of the campfire and landed in leaves and stuff. Then somebody tried to blame a root, not their own inattention to nearby leaf piles.
If I'm planning on staying at a base camp for several days, then I carry a roll of aluminum flashing 6 foot by 10 inches with small holes cut along the bottom for air flow to the fire in a horse-shoe shape! There are tabs cut and bent with holes in them so I can stake down the flashing or use rocks to counter the wind! I carry it rolled around my sleeping bag and it weighs very little. If it's only an overnighter, I don't make a campfire, I just use a metal stove inside my tent but only to cook with! If it's cold, then I find and heat up a rock on the stove, wrap it in a small towel and tie it in a small cloth bag (crown royal bag) and place it in the bottom of my sleeping bag! The flashing helps with wind, serves a fair chimney (for it's height) and reflects heats onto my tent!
Another great tool for the tool box!! I have learned lots from you as well as Corporals Corner, making me completely pliable for any situation that may come along!!!!
I would double check his info.
Your fire needs air. Under normal conditions, placing three thick logs in a U shape that is open to the prevailing wind works well. Use the crisscross method to quickly build a hot bed of coals and catch the logs on fire. In an extremely windy situation, dig a Dakota fire pit. Ensure that the air intake hole faces the prevailing wind. Try it. You'll like it!
I have learned so much for my "toolbox " from this channel!
The simplest way of making a fire containment that I was taught was to just cut out a double row of tidy divots as a fire pit, maybe 2-4" deep, then use the upturned divots as the fire containement, and when done, just dump the water from any washing buckets/tubs and the fire bucket into the fire pit, flooding it until the water stops boiling, then flip the divots back in to cover the pit and walk around a bit on it to drown any smouldering roots.
The end result should look more like a muddy bit of ground that's been visited by a few boars than the remains of a campfire.
If a camp stove is used instead,I was taught that ashes and coals is to be dumped in the pissing pit (if it hadn't been used yet, the one who's emptying the stove damn well better need to take a piss too, or have a washing up tub to empty over it.
I Australia it is mandatory to clear at least 3m around your fire in the bush to reduce accidental bushfires. At various times of the year we also have total fire bans, a handy tip is to take lemon juice with you so you can use it to cook any fish you catch. Being Australia we don't need to boil water to drink, we just take plenty of beer. Besides fish fck in water.
One fire I use quite a lot is the keyhole fire, but I generally dont make a ring. Just set up rocks on one side to hold my pot or grating keep a good fire burning and move the coals over to my rocks. Boil water and throw heat with the fire, cook fish/ bannock/ whatever in the "keyhole".
Great instruction. As always, thank you.
The only heat that reflects is radiant heat. So a wood wall would have some effect if the bark was removed. How effective would need to be tested, but I imagine it would be minimal when compared with the heat being removed from you by the wind convection.
Convection is an unrealistic heat transfer mechanism in an un-contained area. Any air that’s heated will simply rise.
Conduction is only possible with physical contact. Heating rocks has been a proven method for generations.
So a log wall is likely less of a heat reflector and more of a wind breaker.
The temperature increase in front of a "reflector" is approximately double the temperature increase to the sides of it.
Do you feel that this is a temperature increase due to the barrier reflecting radiant heat? Or do you think it may be prevention of heat loss via convection (wind chill)? If it’s reflective, then is the bark removed or not?
Without you explaining your experiment, I can only fill in the gaps with assumptions. I am assuming that what you have there is a wind break - an important aspect of staying warm.
One thing you didn't mention that I have noticed about a reflector like this is how, in some circumstances, it seems to provide a bit of a chimney effect for smoke in some situations. Any thoughts or observations about that?
That is the reason I use them. It does not take much. And the air turbulence around it draws the smoke to it.
Two things people should be aware of concerning campfires.
Wet rocks can explode when they get too hot! A friend of mine lost an eye through exactly that.
Secondly, your fire can spread above ground as you said, but also underground unseen by the camper. Particularly in woodland & forest areas where the fibrous tree roots can smoulder for weeks before surfacing later and setting fire to the area. It is good practice to dowse the fire pit with copious amounts of water when it has gone out. Also dig down and feel if there is any heat left, if so dowse again.
I’m always shaking my head at peoples fire rings.
For blocking wind, try 4x15 canvas drop cloths and push pins.
first time I made fire in the woods I noticed fire getting out away from the fire area the ground catching fire but I was able to smother it also had water. to douse it but that was a lesson about fire safety my experience of building fires in woods is still limited but as long as you use small fire for 2-3 hour duration and douse it out before leaving site with snow or water you are basically safe
About that 'heat reflectors' - wood or rocks don't really reflect heat, you might use some mylar blanket for that (kept at a safe distance), but the main reason to put up a wall behind the fire is to distract the smoke! Smoke is always drawn to obstacles, you might have seen the smoke to follow you, if you're standing close to it. Without a backwall your shelter is the tallest obstacle and the smoke is drawn towards and into it - with a wall higher than your shelter, the smoke rises at the backwall, keeping your shelter free.
Good tips , thank you for sharing fr Hongkong
Thank you for calling them a wind block, and clearly explaining why they don't work as a reflector. It's nice to see a RUclips Bushcrafter get it right.
nice tips.... I use a peace of alu foil weight few and space almost nothing as an reflector works fantastic
Your shelter is the wind block. Didn't think of it till now. Brilliant common sense.
Appreciate the info Dan. While I won’t go out of my way to build a fire ring, I’ll sure use an existing one at a campsite provided there is enough deadfall to pick up. Almost every federal/state park/management area I’ve been to in the last year has so much pressure finding wood is a pain. Now at my bushcraft camp at a friends farm? Different story. I have a nice fire ring of low stones and a decent sized piece of shale that I used as a wind block more than a heat reflector. A bushcamp can be changed/upgraded as one sees fit so it’s all in one’s taste. Speaking of taste, while a dehydrated meal will suffice on a multi-day hike, a cast iron seared ribeye and veggies with fresh bread out of a Dutch Oven is where it’s at. Pair with a little KY brownwater and hot coffee afterwards? Yeah I choose the old ways an established, comfortable bushcamp 1 bazillion times over humping trail over multiple days. Whatever your choice, GET IN THE WOODS!!
I found that with the stone reflector for lack of a better term draws the smoke up the face side of it so your not taking so much smoke in the face.
I've found good value in raising a wind break behind my fire when I'm using a low, open-fronted shelter like a tarp or lean-to, as it allows the smoke to get a few feet higher before the breeze blows it sideways, ideally over my shelter or over head. Ideally I've set things up so the wind is blowing ACROSS the front of the shelter, avoiding any wind eddies taking it inside, but the wind can change. I will make them a good deal larger than the one you have here, and out of the fuel I intend to burn if it's damp, since it will dry decently stacked near the fire a step or so back. Just enough room for a couple tripods to hang pots on a ridge pole. Not necessarily worth doing if its a one-night sight, but if I intend being there for a few days it's nice. Also a nice wall to dry socks, pots, etc. And it definitely gives camp a more settled feel.
With fire rings I tend to use a horse-shoe of stone if anything because I find it foolish to cut firewood into stove-length billits if I'm not using a stove. Push logs save a lot of energy and add some utility and a lot of adjustability to the fire.
Pro tip: pack one of those reflective windshield umbrellas type things. You can use it as a heat reflector and dont have to build anything
Too lightweight, too flammable and too easy to tear up!
The "reflector panel, wind shield, fill-in-the-blank-with-your-favorite-name-for-it, is indeed a useful tool if you are gonna be onsite for at least 3 days. It does reflect heat, but not enough to make a difference. ( Use a thermal imaging scope and see ), it might deflect a bit of wind, but you addressed that well enough already - but what it DOES do is direct the heat and smoke toward the surface of your panel/shield ( _I use a standing stone_ ) keeping the smoke out of your face. If you are the tallest thing next to your fire, the smoke will chase you all night. One tombstone style rock will save you from a week's worth of red eyes and coughing. But whaddaIknowaboutit, right?
👍👍👍 Absolutely!
Isn't there a myth-busters style video about this somewhere?
@@edubs9828 If they did one on this, I am unaware o it. But I have seen the data from a decently run experiment. It showed that the temperature increase _in front_ of the "reflector" was *roughly double* the temperature increase to _the side_ of it. So if it is a bitter cold night you'll be camping in, then it may be worth it to build a "reflector" behind your fire. But I think your energy is best used by building a Mors Kochanski Super Shelter if you have the materials. Nothing beats it for staying warm in the bitter cold, if properly built. But if you don't have the necessary materials for that, and you are "inconvenient camping", a "reflector "will definitely increase the heat between your shelter and your fire , just about by double. That's not a difference I care about when I camp. I am older now and I use modern tricks to stay warm. Old Dan got this one wrong. I think maybe he read an article in which his claim was justified by using the inverse square law of thermodynamics. Unfortunately that article has been disproven, "mythbusted", "destroyed", more than once. The inverse square law only applies if your source of heat is a "point source" - and a campfire is not. It's not even close. Experiments have been done, _with control group data_ , that prove what Dan is saying is . . . . let's say _mistaken_ . But I don't know how old Dan takes being "mistaken" so I don't push the point.
Lonnie from Farnorthbushcraft tested it out proved the reflector doesn't reflect , but it does draw up the smoke !
@@zippitydoodah5693 I think reflected heat was used when it should be more of a heat sink that radiates heat back. It probably is more effective when it's really cold with the wind blowing. Even then not everyone would consider it effective especially over night. In a long term camp where the logs have been able to absorb a lot of heat, it would be radiating noticeably when the fire dies down. This would be much like the heavy iron or stone plate at the back of fireplaces of old.
I remember reading in one of my old books (Calvin Rutstrum? Bradford Angiers? Not sure) that these wooden backings are not worth having... unless they are burning. Then they work.
Some of the heat is reflected back from a lean-to. A lean-to is good as long as you have a fire going.
The bottom of your fire pit works best if it's "bowl" shaped. The coals fall in to the center and the wood stays held up
Regarding the stone fire ring, you should Never ever use stones found in any Water. The stones contain water and at a certain temperature they can Explode, AND INJURE someone or kill them. I've heard of that happening, be safe ,and be smart tyvm
Plus you usual set up your tent with the back facing the wind coming in if you can, which creates a wind block for the fire in the front.
There are comments comparing other content creators. I care more about the content. Don’t care how I feel about a person. RUclips is not a social call. The concept is important. I’ve seen people say the Kelly kettle is a waste of time in survival. Since we talking about fire. Personally ; the Kelly kettle is a great tool. I like to hear others opinion. The Kelly kettle blocks wind, portable and uses less wood than a fire ring.
What about the benefits of retaining heat by using a stone backing that absorbs the heat, or a fire up against a rock wall. This would be beneficial if your fire is quite close or part of your shelter.
Great information as always. Thank you.
Thank you for explaining all that about campfires! So much info that is not often said. Thanks!!! ❤
What about using a Thermal Mass? like the large stone behind you while you were talking about wind blocking and heat refraction. If the stone is absorbing heat from your fire it could continue to radiate heat after the fire dies down at night.
Interesting to learn about the science behind those wind blocks and heat reflectors. Thanks Dan
Straight up no BS info love it
Thank God Pa, gives us every type of fire experience we ever need and all the materials for whatever fire we want when we want......to bad there are more and more citiots expanding into our peaceful forests and dumbing them up thank God your showing them how not to Maui our state
Heat travels by Conduction, Convection and Radiation.
It seems the benefit of the of the heat reflector is mostly for radiated heat, and of course as a windblock. Certain materials radiate heat better than others, the wood it seems would not be so great for that.
As a former scoutmaster I agree totally with your opinions in this video. I have found that wind breaks help pull smoke towards them and seem to help manage being smoked out by your fire. What is your opinion on this?
Really enjoy the videos Dan keep'em coming bud. Wishing you and yours the best. Stay safe and be well brother. 👊😎🤙🔥🍻🇺🇸
I love the way everyone came to the conclusion reflectors don't work, right after Mors Kochanski came out with it, now all bushcrafters have have suddenly researched the subject and discovered they don't work.😂
Back in the 70s Mors promoted reflectors and everyone used them. So my conclusion is people don't really come to their own conclusion.
well, the only thing that is going to reflect heat is a mylar blanket(it was designed to reflect infrared) which can be useful in cold weather. That said you MIGHT be able to do something similar if you have a lot of charcoal dust on a flat surface as it also reflects infrared pretty well, though how much of a difference that would make I have no idea(I imagine that if it was a situation where you absolutely needed it, it probably wouldn't save you but again, I'm not certain). I would think that stone however would be good at simply retaining heat and acting like a radiator once the fire dies down adding a bit more longevity to the heat(though again, how much I have no idea).
I've been under the impression that the reflector has the effect of creating an updraft. this will inturn draw the smoke away from your shelter.
I have a question. In the episode titled 7 Bushcraft Skills for the frontier with Jon Townsend. Where do I get a wool blanket the size of the one in where you showed how to cover up in a diamond shape. Mine is no where near that big. Thanks for the help. Joe W.
Trust me, fire has a way of waking you up out of the deadest sleep.We used to burn cedar in our teepee and those embers would pop out something fierce, randomly in the middle of the night and land on your sleeping bag. You knew to sleep lightly, because you better jump up and get on it and figure out where that burning coal landed when you hear that pop!
Also, isnt a bigger danger from sparks flitting off to dry brush, unawares, than tree rootscatching fire? Deprnding on the wood species, popping flying sparks are dangerous.
Throw some Mylar over the "heat reflector", makes a huge difference when it's below 20 and you need to make your camp into an easy game oven.
You should have included to clean up any dry leaves or dry material just outside the fire ring... Thanks for the video... The Frye Guy..
That big slab of stone behind you is a heat reflector.Heat that thing up,thermal mass.I would let the fire go out and sleep next to that thing.
Clearly expalined & practical in utility!
and wrong
Thanks Dan!
Good morning from Syracuse NY brother and thank you for sharing your wood lore
Gm
Good morning young lady
Good morning! I'm just a bit west of Syracuse, myself!
Good morning my friend
What are the markings for on back of your axe? Measurements??
Fire ring to prevent the fire from spreading and to stop you from a misstep into the fire or if sleeping close to the fire scorching your sleeping bag
If it's real windy an X with a depression at the center. Or a Dakota fire hole. All fires should be on Mineral soil not forest duff.
You can hang a piece of reflective material on it and IT DOES work using less wood !
ANY "heat" reflected by a backstop will be 10-15 feet up when it "reaches you" on the other side of a fire. It's basic physics. A simple pool table side view would prove it to you.
IF you have a lean-to to "catch it", you'd get "some" benefit.
Meanwhile, a wind block can help in some circumstances. Build it up wind. Don't make it vertically perpendicular. Set it up three feet away and lean it toward the fire about 25-35 degrees. Any air will ramp up and make an O2 feed into the fire. If you slant it away, it'll make a breaker, but the edge eddies will blow sparks and coals everywhere if it's gusty.
Don't take my word, try it. 😊
Love your videos they’re awesome. Also, 0:10 sounds like the video game Halo CE haha.
Reminds me of an article I once read in a Men's Magazine, re. What to Do If Lost in the Woods. The Experts said "It's late, and the Weather is going to shįt. Gather a large amount of Logs to burn & keep you warm during the Night". I thought "Wait, wtf ! You're gonna waste all your Energy to drag Logs around the forest; then sleep out in the Open ?! How about saving Energy by building a Debris Shelter, gather Sticks for a small Fire; and have more Time left to Rest & Sleep ?!".
Makes sense to me. You wouldn’t put your lean-to downwind of the fire so why not use it as your windbreak.
Great video Thanks! I like the way you present these ideas. After reading some of the comments I find it demeaning to try and prop YOU up by putting someone else down. I find you, Dan, quite able to stand on your own two feet. Your instruction and demonstrations are first class. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the next video!
? I saw the one guy talk about loving corporals corner, what comments do you refer to?
It was about the way CC would take the time to make a more extensive shelter and the person would not do that. My reply was not meant to be a gimmick. I like and sub both Sean and Dan.@@sinisterthoughts2896
Yep, I found that if you need a wall built to block wind you either set up wrong/wrong place or it’s windy enough that little wall isn’t going to make any difference.
If one's going to make the effort of building a wall, it's time to considder if it's not better to just go all in and build a small hut or cabin anyway.
Been my experience as well, if it's that windy, it's probably too windy.
Would a mylar sos type blanket reflect the heat back if hung from a wind block?
Build that wind block and then cover it with a space blanket...THEN you'll be doing some reflecting.
Naw, a reflector especially if it is rock makes a big difference. A piece of tin or even some green sticks.
In the United States, nearly nine out of 10 wildfires are caused by people not being careful. Help Smokey prevent these types of fires by learning to be careful and helping others do the same.
Make sure that the grownups building your next campfire follow all the rules below, and tell them to check out Campfire Safety to learn even more.
Make sure you are at a site that allows campfires.
Make sure there are no burn bans and it's not too windy.
Dig a pit away from overhanging branches.
Circle the pit with rocks.
Clear a 10-foot area around the pit down to the dirt, removing anything that could catch on fire.
Stack extra wood upwind and away from fire.
After lighting, throw the match into the fire.
Never leave a campfire unattended; an adult should supervise the campfire at all times.
Keep a bucket of water and shovel nearby.
Never put anything but wood into the fire.
Do not pull sticks out of the fire.
Do not sit on the fire ring or rocks around the campfire. They will heat up quickly and they'll stay hot for a long time.
When it's time to put the fire out, dump lots of water on it, stir it with a shovel, then dump more water on it. Make sure it is COLD before leaving the campsite. If it's too hot to touch, it's too hot to leave!
Soooo they're not caused by ⚡ ⚡ Lightening? Downed Power lines ? Worsened by bone dry unmanaged forests? fanned by liberal climate propaganda....?
UNICORN FARTS???
I've noticed a fire ring tall enough to keep more than 3/4 of the fire protected barely gapping the area between the ring and the ground to help control sir flow to save on firewood add more of a gap to get more air flow for when you need the fire hot other than that like he's saying a lot of these are to help prevent the fire from spreading also like a fire ring for setting cooking grates on I like a tripod to cook with but the ring and grate setup is better because the pan and grate won't be swinging and moving around like on the tripod just depends on how and what you're cooking.
This was from Nessmuk's book Woodcraft from 1920
Great video, Dan!
Has anyone used a mylar emergency blanket or car windshield sun reflector as a heat reflector by the fire?
(I am curious about the efficacy of these materials for cold weather camping or emergency/survival situations.)
Thanks & Happy Trails!
🇺🇸 🦅
Cody Lundin made a shelter with Dave Canterbury on dual survival. The back wall (the one away from the fire) was a mylar blanket, clear plastic sheeting on the front.
@@budwilliams6590 Thanks for that tip! I'll check it out.
Have a safe & spook-tacular Halloween! 🌕🦇🎃🕸🐈⬛️
Coming from a dry climate with a high fire risk…. There is no substitute for removing dry fuel if your intention is to prevent fire spread. A little ring of rocks IS NOT ENOUGH. Rake the leaves and debris away for at least a few feet.