You explain this very well. I'm a beginner taking on an ambitious project - making a wall out of windows for my shipping container house. Finding videos that actually show you other than the presenter in a way I can follow and learn is rare. You're my hero, thanks!
I had to pause the video at :20 to thank you already for actually going over some vocabulary. I've been watching other videos that assume that I already know what these things are. Thanks!
hi. i want to thank you for your excellent videos. they are exactly what i am looking for to help me build a little room under the house and potentially a little tiny house out the back. you've done an excellent job with these pictures to help us understand what you're talking about.
This video was very helpful for me. I recently got my Termite/fungus inspector license with minimal construction background and this was super important to know.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, it never ceases to amaze me just who uses these videos, I would never have thought of Interior designers need to know this.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, I dont think you need to leave quite so much on both sides. these videos may help to clear things up. ruclips.net/video/VU6FNVitXRM/видео.html ruclips.net/video/L1BKnzQcPlY/видео.html
Hi Mate, to be honest I have always found having a left handed person as part of the team is very useful. They can get into some areas, to nail, where righthanders can't. However as for a left handed hammer I think your boss is pulling your leg.
HI Anthony Leily Thanks for your feedback. I have never heard of an actual minimum width however I would imaging that the narrower the sheet the less effective it would be and it would probaly get to a point where it would not be worth putting it on at all. I cant recall using sheets less that 900mm here in NSW, Australia. Personaly I prefer plywood over metal strap. The metal straps are a pain to install and don't really give you a lot of resistance. With Ply all you do is nail it on and you get a lot more resistance. Size is not really an issue as long as the sheets suite the stud spacings, the less cutting you have to do the better.
Our builders installed metal braces in the walls but forgot to nail them down. So you walk around on 1st level and the walls have a metallic vibrate sound. And on the ground floor, the wall mounted clothes dryer makes the metal braces vibrate. I ended up having to pull off sections of the gyprock and screw the brace properly to the studs and noggins. Hey nice video - I never understood that large plyboard - it's a brace! Makes so much more sense now - it just seemed kind of random before. Masteron - I wouldn't recommend them to anyone. Message me if you want more info on my experience building two homes with them.
Thanks for your helpful videos, I'm a graduate structural engineer and I was told that for sheet bracing ( Plywood ) minimum width should be 900 mm to be effective, I was wondering if you use less than 900 mm and do you suggest metal strap or plywood for bracings and what typical sizes are easier to install , thanks
Hey buildsum, thanks heaps for the videos. I am new to carpentry and would like to know more in regards to window positioning while framing. My current boss tries his best to measure where the bricks will be then align the windows closes to where it might be. Even though i think this makes it easier for the brick layers. I think its time consuming and unnecessary. What are your inputs in this?
HI Josif This is a very common practice as it not only saves time with the bricklayer but also looks like a much better job. Have a look at this video it may help ruclips.net/video/L1BKnzQcPlY/видео.html
Great videos, thank you. I have a couple of questions if I may. 1. At doorways is there anything wrong with using jamb studs inside the door studs to support the door head trimmer instead of notching the door stud for the door head trimmer. 2. Can I use more than one noggin between each studs, for a 3m wall I assume I need 2 but was thinking of 3. Can I nail the noggins to the studs before installing them? 4. Can I use a full stud in place of the blocking? Thanks so much.
Hi Steve, remember that standards are the minimum that you are required to do so if you want to put in extra timber there is no problem with that. Everything that you have suggested sounds fine.
here in the USA we never have the floor plate run across the bottom of a doorway, and we have a header over the doors as well as the windows, and all are lumber is 2x4 or 2x6 and so on and we use a 1x4 for angel bracing and it is notched into each stud making for a very strong bracing.
Joel Kerley Hi Joel Thanks for your comments. The plate across the bottom of the door is only temporary during construction and transport, once the wall has been stood and fixed in place it is cut out.Yes we use headers or Lintels over our doors as well but only in load bearing walls. As for timber sizes we commonly used 70 x 35, 70 x 45, 90 x 35 and 90 x 45 but noting larger. The timber brace used to be fairly common however steel bracing and sheet bracing is now being specified by the Structural engineers so we have to used them instead. Again thanks it always great to hear how things are done differently in other parts of the world.
Hi very good video just wondering when you put in the secondary stud, isn't that going to close off the measured space needed for the custom made window size?
Thanks, Masi, the position of the secondary studs is determined by the required window opening and everything else goes outside that. The frame company or the person constructing the frame will know from the span of the Lintel is the second stud is required or not.
so with the panel bracing how is that covered by the cladding if the bracing steps out on the outside wall wont that push the wall cladding out or is that panel recessed into the framing
Thanks for your Vids, just looking for advice on noggins. I can see how it would be easier to stagger the noggins on that centre line of them, but I see some videos where all the noggins are level on the same height (that would be harder to do (skew nailing etc) so if I do them in a staggered format will it be harder to line a room with gyprock, unsure? Thanks for your videos.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, it is standard to have the noggins in the staggered format and it wont make it any easier or harder whichever way you do it. Just be aware some products, like "Blueboard" need to have the edge of the sheet continuously supported. Hope this helps.
Morning Buildsum, Im really learning a lot from your videos they are explained so well,I was just wondering if you have a video on calculating the correct size for a window opening while you are constructing the frame work. Also are there any measurement standard work sheets for this as a lot of windows are different sizes. Cheers Grant
Hi Grant Have a look at this video ruclips.net/video/VU6FNVitXRM/видео.html All window manufacturers have a window schedule that will give you the opening size required for their windows. It should be availble on their website.
That was a great comment about some companies handling the lintel differently, thanks for that. In your example this was a new build, however how is bracing retrofitted to an existing brick veneer wall? For example retrofitting bifold or stacker doors to replace a standard door. There is obviously no longer access to the cavity. There would be an existing timber or perf steel diagonal bracing but that would no longer be possible. I presume the sheet bracing would need to be installed internally?
Bugger! Ok thanks, I will need to come up with another solution then as it's not the whole wall that will be stripped. Imagine an open plan kitchen (yes with tiled splashback) adjoining the dining area. It's the dining area that will receive the new opening and the kitchen area (on the same wall) will for now be left untouched. The interior studs will need to remain in their existing plane. I don't think I'm the first to need to do this, so I'm surprised I'm finding it difficult to see how others have coped with this situation. A the moment I'm considering leaving a 450 mm bay in the corner and inserting bracing, basically as a site built "Pryda short Wall Truss". Alternatively, inserting additional framing and fixing some sheet bracing to that frame so the bracing could go internal, and inserting that into the bay, ie that bay would appear as if it had jack studs with double top and bottom plates (if that makes sense) and tying it to the plates with coach bolts. The wall is on timber bearers. Either way I'm wallowing around is a sea of uncertainty as to how either of those brainwaves stand in the eyes of the code! I figure it simply needs to withstand the wind loading, and it shouldn't matter how I get it there. Ha ha ;)
HI Pete To be honest the reason you cant find anything on it is because you are delving into stuff that a structural engineer would normally be consulted on. While you plan sounds feasible and reasonable to me it would need certification.
G'day Buildsum, I've just found your channel and enjoy your videos. If you have the time to respond, I'd love to ask a few questions: I've been waching all the Larry Haun framing videos and now I am trying to 'translate' that info into Australian :) The yanks seem to use 2x4s for studs and floor/top plates. I gather 90x35 is the closest equivalent for a 2x4 - is that what you use? and the same for floor and top plates? Also they don't seem to use noggins - is that an Aus standard thing? When I buy a bundle of H2 or H3 from Bunnings most of them have some bow or twist in them. What's acceptable and what isn't? I know you said use the straightest ones for window and door studs. How do you deal w distorted timber? Do you make all the bows face one way and compensate somehow? I can't find any info on this. Would love your advice. Cheers.
Hi Uri Yes, we commonly use 90 x 35 or 90 x 45 instead of 4 x 2s, yes same for flooring and Top Plates. Not sure about the use of noggins in the US but they are a requirement of Australian Standards ruclips.net/video/UN4Ue8BgkR4/видео.html Page 34 in this document may help www.vba.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/29063/Guide-to-Standards-and-Tolerances-2015.pdf However, this refers to after the straightening process complete, not how you by them out of the store. Personally, I would not buy bulk timber from Bunnings a local timber yard would be better, however, some bowed timber is unavoidable. The worst can be used for the shorter members like the noggins.Yes, all bows should be put in the same direction to make straightening easier as per the How to Straighten a timber wall frame Hope this helps
Uri Auerbach noggins allow you to fix standard plaster sheets on there side. They also stop flex on the stud. Australian sizes will match American measurements as everything originated in imperial before we converted to metric. That why timber comes in lengths of 1200, 1500, 1800, 2100 and so on. It's just feet converted. Our studs are 90x45. That 4"x2".
If that wall is to be load bearing as the beam above the window would suggest then the top and bottom plates need to be doubled. Also the doorway needs a beam above it like the window. For me max stud spacing for 4"x2" shouldn't exceed 16" O/C, 👍 🔨 🇮🇪
Hi Mate, Yes if this was to be a load bearing wall the door would required a lintel however it was just drawn for the purpose of the terminology. However, here in Australia at least, we dont require the double top and bottom plates for load bearing walls as long a certain conditions are met. They are covered in this video. ruclips.net/video/35K_SMW7_kM/видео.html Hope this helps
Great explanation, thank you. Do you have an answer to when a ribbon plate is needed? Does it depend on whether there are joins in the top plate; or does it depend on whether it’s a load bearing wall, tiled roof or a tin roof; does it depend on whether there is a window frame or a door within the stud wall, or the span of the wall?
Hi, it depends on the amount of wind load that will act on the building and the amount of resistance that the bracing unit gives. Some framing companies put a diagonal brace on every wall so it easier to install and plumb the walls.
Hi, Thanks for the video..I was wondering for internal walls here in NSW can you have stud spacings of 600mm and can you use 70 x 35 mm structural pine? Also if doing external stud walls, (I was thinking at 450 centres), is it ok to use 70 x 35 also for that? Thanks, Tony
Tony Adams Hi Tony All timber sizes and spacing are determined using the AS 1684 Timber Framing Code and mainly depend on the size and the weight of the roof and the grade of the timber that you are using. Non load bearing internal walls can be 70 x 35 mm structural pine spaced at 600mm centers as the are taking no weight. However I have never seen or calculated 70 x 35 mm structural pine for External Load bearing walls. The smallest I have seen was 70 x 45 however this was for a corrugated iron roof with no notching to the studs. I would suggest that you get hold of a copy of the Timber framing code applicable to your area and have a look at that or consult with a builder or building consultant.
Hi Sophie, Steel frames would be basically the same however as they need to be engineered it is not something that you would be building onsite yourself.
Goodmorning, thank you very much for this very detailed and well explained video! It helped me a lot in understanding how a wall is build. Me and my wife are in the process of building our own tiny house. I wanted to ask you what you recommend for spacing between the studs. I get a bit mixed information online, from 30cm to 60 cm between the studs.
Hi Samuel, the standard here in Australia is 450mm or 600mm however it really depends on the lining and the cladding that you will be attaching to the studs. Manufacturers will specify the minimum support required so that should be your stud spacing. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum thank you for such a fast response, yes this helps a lot already. Also it clarifies a lot why i found so many different opinions. I will then indeed contact the manufactur, is this normally the manufacur for the lining and cladding? or the manufactur for the studs. anyhow, thank you a lot :)
Thanks mate, fair dinkum explanation. what's the standard spacing for centres? 450mm for external walls and 600mm for internal? you only mentioned the noggins @1350 high. great vid thanks again, just about to go spastic on a building spree on my land!
Hi Mr. Buildsum thanks for this tutorial. my question is about the dimension, for all framing materials I need this or if you can tell where I find referents books. I working for framing company and I just work like a Drawing person but, if I can help for calculate other material is better for me. Thanks Luis.
Luis Melo Hi Luis in Australia we have Australian Standards that help us to calculate the sizes of the framing members the main one being AS 1684 Timber Framing Code. I would imagine that you would have the same. Other wise most material manufacturers produce their own span tables that you can use to work out the size required for thier products
Hello, Im not native english so I'd like to know if the difference between how we name each peace of a frame wall is because of the english speaking (UK vs EEUU for example). I mean, you say "Jack Studs" and i have seen the same with "Cripple Stud", same with "Header" and "Lintel", "Trimmer" and "Jamb Stud", "King Stud" and "Window Stud". ¡Thanks!
Hi Sergio I'm sure that the same member is called many different names depending on where you come from, English speaking or not, even here in Australia we have different names depending on the State or Town you were trained in so it is confusing. The names I have used are written in the Australian Standard AS 1684 - Timber Framing Code.
Hi JOHN, Do you know the software which most framing carpenters use for framing design before they do the job on site? second question is when I brace the frame? after all the wall join together or when each wall still lying on the ground? Thanks. Roger
Hi Roger Personally, i didn't use any software it all comes off the plans. The wall should be braced after they are all stood and plumbed, however, it is common for the bracing to be tacked in place on the ground because it is easier to do then, however, they need to be able to be adjusted if needed once stood.
Hi Raymond, the metal bracing can be used as a tempoary bracing to hold the wall square and plumb while tha ply and the internal lining is installed. Also not all countries sheet the entire out side of the building with ply they only use ply if the metal bracing is not going to be sufficent. Hope this helps.
I have some terrible looking opening head in my house. After watching this video, I assume there is a trimmer and jack stud in side. Do you think I can remove the opening head without affect the building structurally.
Hi Peter, you would have to have a look in the roof and see if there is any supports landing on top of that wall before you start doing anything with it.
Great vid , My Question is , what will determine the position of lentil over window opening? do we have to pre measure window opening then lay lentil over? Thanks in advance
+jivara sulaiman Hi Jivara Yes you will need to know the Stud opening dimensions for your window, you will also need to consider the Drop Off of you eaves if you have one. ruclips.net/video/hr9qw2jbYco/видео.html The lintel should be above this. It is common practice to place the lintel hard up under the top plate and then just frame out to suit the window. Hope this helps
great video mate. just wondering with the ply bracing, is it better to put them on when the wall is flat on the ground, after you get it nice and square, or after it is erected? thanks.
Hi Alex It is easier to attach the ply brace before you erect it however once you stand the wall up you wont be able to plumb it if necessary. I would tack the sheet on in the corners to hold the wall square but still allow you to adjust if after standing if necessary. Thanks for the feedback
Buildsum thanks for replying. what do you mean by plumbing the wall? would you only need to do this if the floor wasnt level? so say it was a timber sub floor, you then erect the wall, and nail the bottom plate down, then, if you havnt attached the ply yet, you have a little bit of lateral movment to get the studs nice and plum, but even if you attach the ply only in the corners you still wouldnt have much lateral movment to play with i think
HI Alex Yes in theory you should only need to plumb the wall if the floor is not level however in practice you always seem to need to adjust slightly. By tacking the corners this will allow you to keep the wall square while you move nd stand the wall and then you can easily release the 2 bottom nails and make the adjustment while the top nails hold the sheet in place. Once all the walls are Plumb you can then go around and nail them all off
Nicely done as always. With very wide lintel, are the multiple jack studs simply nailed together or do they have thin blocking separating each one? When installing a wide lintel into an existing brick veneer wall, it's likely that diagonal bracing will need to be changed for sheet bracing, but I'm not sure how that would be done with the veneer already in place. How is this normally handled, assuming conventional gyprock lining, where you also wouldn't want to affect the wall thickness?
Hi Pete Multiple studs are just nailed to each other, the bottom plate and the lintel itself. As for the bracing i have never really worried about it, the metal diagonal braces contribute very little bracing effect in the whole scheme if things however the only way would be to strip off all the Gyprock on the inside and add the ply brace to that wall then Gryprock back over. There is no way of doing it without increasing the wall thickness thai i know of
Buildsum ok thanks. In the example I was thinking of the plaster will all be coming off anyway, it's a 50 year old house so I may as well straighten the remaining studs as required and hang new gyprock there anyway; a very small cost in the grand scheme of things as I'll definitely be doing all the non-structural work myself anyway. The only way I could think of to sheet brace it would be to pull all the required common and corner stud out too, basically "pre-fab" replacements with the bracing in place, then reinsert into the existing top/bottom plate as one unit, if that makes sense. It would need to be done as the first op, otherwise essentially the whole wall is propped if the lintel is already installed. The only other way I could think of would be to check it in to the front of the studs, but I think that would be very time consuming and not very practical solution.
Hi Mike, If the wall was a load bearing wall then yes you would however they are not required on a non-loadbearing wall. You could make the assumtion that because there is a window in the wall shown then it is most likely an extenal loadbearing wall however it was just drawn to show the members that are in a wall not as an actual wall in a building. Hope this helps
+tamkin pashton Hi Tamkin This seems like a good article that should answer your question www.propertyobserver.com.au/finding/residential-investment/house-and-land/17170-the-13-steps-in-the-construction-phase-of-building-a-new-home-jo-chivers.html
HI Adrian, good luck with that, unless the wall is going to be connected to the ceiling at both ends then there is no chance of not having it move side to side.
No mate, it will have to be attached to the ceiling at least both ends regardless of height. The connection does not have to be the wall continuing all the way up, you could use decorative features to make the connection and keep the open look going.
Hi Mate, that is a pretty subjective question as it will differ depending on the type of timber you are using, the length of the studs, whether the wall is loadbearing or not, roof loads, the country you are in and other factors. However as a rule of thunmb, any opening that is wider than the stud spacing being used will require a Header (Lintel) of some sort and nowdays it is quicker to use a Jamb Stud to support is rather that checking the Lintel into the single Window stud. Hope this helps
@@Buildsum hi mate thx you for your reply ,i see what you mean ,i try to get answer as is so hard a carpernter to do you work now days ,thx for the help
Thank you for your prompt reply! I actually just realised by going into your channel which clearly states Google SketchUp is being used. Love you channel - very informative, straightforward and clear.
HI Mate Actually there is no need for a double top plate unless your trusses or rafters fall more than 1.5 time the depth of the top plate away from the stud. The other reason you commonly see double top plates is to lift trusses above internal walls however you could just make the internal walls shorter and achieve the same result. ruclips.net/video/_T5UPm0tuSE/видео.html&lc=z12iitxyiuibs111u23igvqqhs2rddsgn04 As for the lintel, while technically, not correct for a load bearing wall it is acceptable for a non load bearing wall and i had already shown a lintel in the video. Other than that thanks for your comments.:)
Hi Jason, all of my videos and terminology are as per the relevent Australian standards, that door opening is pretty typical for a non load bearing wall here in Australia. I can imagine that America would have stricter requirements due to some of the extreme weather that you get. As far as real world experiance I worked as a contractor for 15 years and now teach carpentry.
finally found a aussie specs you tube site, good illustrations and wordings as im new to the wood speak framing language..thank's mate
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, I hope you find the the videos useful.
You explain this very well. I'm a beginner taking on an ambitious project - making a wall out of windows for my shipping container house. Finding videos that actually show you other than the presenter in a way I can follow and learn is rare. You're my hero, thanks!
Hi Chandra, thanks for your comment, I'm glad you like the videos.
This was FANTASTIC!! Great explanation on how to 'think' through the build 'by purpose'. Thank you!
Thanks Axetone, I'm glad you like them, thanks for your kind comments.
I had to pause the video at :20 to thank you already for actually going over some vocabulary. I've been watching other videos that assume that I already know what these things are. Thanks!
+West L Thanks glad you like it
😎👍👍
Again thank you for this... absolutely brilliant👍
Thanks mate, I'm glad you like it.
Great video, thanks. Very clear and useful info.
Fantastic info so helpful. Thank for takeing the time and effort to make this vid👍👍👍
David Smith 👑 I'm with you on that
Great video! Thanks for posting!
Thanks Nader
hi. i want to thank you for your excellent videos. they are exactly what i am looking for to help me build a little room under the house and potentially a little tiny house out the back. you've done an excellent job with these pictures to help us understand what you're talking about.
Thanks Mate, good luck with your projects.
This video was very helpful for me. I recently got my Termite/fungus inspector license with minimal construction background and this was super important to know.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, glad to here it helps.
thank you for a clear concise and fabulous video- it has tremendously helped me as an interior design senior student.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, it never ceases to amaze me just who uses these videos, I would never have thought of Interior designers need to know this.
Very helpful, have watched it several times.
Hi Ed, thanks for your comment, I'm glad you like it.
Really useful stuff mate. Thanks for this.
Thanks, Jean, Glad you like them.
now I understand why should I keep clear 100mm to each side of a window in my drawings. Great job, Thank you.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, I dont think you need to leave quite so much on both sides. these videos may help to clear things up.
ruclips.net/video/VU6FNVitXRM/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/L1BKnzQcPlY/видео.html
Simply the best presentation.
Thanks Mate, glad you like it.
This was really helpful thank you!
Thanks Mate Glad you like them
Perfect job, nice and smooth terminology. Complied with the current AS and BCA. Well done.
Thanks, James, Glad you like it.
Thank you for the detailed figure showing the terms for each things
Thanks Mate, I'm glad it was helpful!
Great video. Well done!
Thanks Mate, I'm glad you like it.
This type of things it's what really help!
Thanks, Mate, Glad you like it.
thanks for this.... really helpful!
Love your explanations
Thanks Mate, Glad you like them!
Awesome video mate. Finally a video that's useful for aussies
Thanks Mate, glad you like it.
Thanks for the videos, they are very educational, and way better then Taff courses.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment although as a TAFE teacher I would hope that the course is at least as good as the videos.
I am trying to get my builder license, so your information is very important.
If you have any advise please share it with us.
Thanks
very helpful, thanks for the vid!
ok cool video, but boss says something about a left hand hammer being a important part of the wall frame and you guys don't even mention it
Hi Mate, to be honest I have always found having a left handed person as part of the team is very useful. They can get into some areas, to nail, where righthanders can't. However as for a left handed hammer I think your boss is pulling your leg.
well done mate, thanks for the tips. Please upload more
Hi Omer, there are over 200 up at the moment and i still have a few on the drawing board.
Bookmarked and subscribed thankyou mate
Welcome aboard!
Good stuff mate...well explained
Thanks, mate, I'm glad you like it.
Good work and thanks mate. these video are helping me through my studies.
Thanks mate, Great to hear!
Well explained Thank you so much Buildsum
V Kirisome 👑
HI Anthony Leily Thanks for your feedback. I have never heard of an actual minimum width however I would imaging that the narrower the sheet the less effective it would be and it would probaly get to a point where it would not be worth putting it on at all. I cant recall using sheets less that 900mm here in NSW, Australia. Personaly I prefer plywood over metal strap. The metal straps are a pain to install and don't really give you a lot of resistance. With Ply all you do is nail it on and you get a lot more resistance. Size is not really an issue as long as the sheets suite the stud spacings, the less cutting you have to do the better.
Buildsum
Our builders installed metal braces in the walls but forgot to nail them down. So you walk around on 1st level and the walls have a metallic vibrate sound.
And on the ground floor, the wall mounted clothes dryer makes the metal braces vibrate. I ended up having to pull off sections of the gyprock and screw the brace properly to the studs and noggins.
Hey nice video - I never understood that large plyboard - it's a brace! Makes so much more sense now - it just seemed kind of random before.
Masteron - I wouldn't recommend them to anyone. Message me if you want more info on my experience building two homes with them.
Great video. Thanks
Thanks Joey, Glad you liked it!
Good vids, very helpful for an owner builder :)
Thank you 👍🏽
Love it
Brilliant. Thanks.
Thanks JB
do you use the force to make the top plate float up in the air like that? You probably could use it for much more useful things than framing a wall...
Great video...thanks very helpful..
Thanks for your comment Peter, I'm glad you like it.
Good vid. Interesting to see the American vs British differences in jargon.
Hi Stefan, Yes there are plenty of different names for the members depending on the country, state or town you work in.
Thanks for the explanation
Thanks, Mate.
Hi +Kim Bucina All the terminology in this video are correct as per the Australian Standard AS 1684 Timber Framing Code and are not slang
good video. Thanks
Thanks Mate, Glad you liked it!
THANK YOU
Thanks for your helpful videos, I'm a graduate structural engineer and I was told that for sheet bracing ( Plywood ) minimum width should be 900 mm to be effective, I was wondering if you use less than 900 mm and do you suggest metal strap or plywood for bracings and what typical sizes are easier to install , thanks
Thanks!
Hi Steve, thanks Mate.
GREAT
Hey buildsum, thanks heaps for the videos.
I am new to carpentry and would like to know more in regards to window positioning while framing. My current boss tries his best to measure where the bricks will be then align the windows closes to where it might be. Even though i think this makes it easier for the brick layers. I think its time consuming and unnecessary. What are your inputs in this?
HI Josif
This is a very common practice as it not only saves time with the bricklayer but also looks like a much better job.
Have a look at this video it may help
ruclips.net/video/L1BKnzQcPlY/видео.html
Great videos, thank you. I have a couple of questions if I may. 1. At doorways is there anything wrong with using jamb studs inside the door studs to support the door head trimmer instead of notching the door stud for the door head trimmer. 2. Can I use more than one noggin between each studs, for a 3m wall I assume I need 2 but was thinking of 3. Can I nail the noggins to the studs before installing them? 4. Can I use a full stud in place of the blocking? Thanks so much.
Hi Steve, remember that standards are the minimum that you are required to do so if you want to put in extra timber there is no problem with that. Everything that you have suggested sounds fine.
thanks Buildsum
here in the USA we never have the floor plate run across the bottom of a doorway, and we have a header over the doors as well as the windows, and all are lumber is 2x4 or 2x6 and so on and we use a 1x4 for angel bracing and it is notched into each stud making for a very strong bracing.
Joel Kerley Hi Joel Thanks for your comments. The plate across the bottom of the door is only temporary during construction and transport, once the wall has been stood and fixed in place it is cut out.Yes we use headers or Lintels over our doors as well but only in load bearing walls. As for timber sizes we commonly used 70 x 35, 70 x 45, 90 x 35 and 90 x 45 but noting larger. The timber brace used to be fairly common however steel bracing and sheet bracing is now being specified by the Structural engineers so we have to used them instead.
Again thanks it always great to hear how things are done differently in other parts of the world.
Nice one.
Thanks!
Hi very good video just wondering when you put in the secondary stud, isn't that going to close off the measured space needed for the custom made window size?
Thanks, Masi, the position of the secondary studs is determined by the required window opening and everything else goes outside that. The frame company or the person constructing the frame will know from the span of the Lintel is the second stud is required or not.
Thanks mate
Thank You, Hossein
@@Buildsum can you please sharing some info about how to contact each walls
Hey, love your videos very informative. Can you please do the same way for tiling on wall and floor?
Hi Mate, sorry im not a tiler.
so with the panel bracing how is that covered by the cladding if the bracing steps out on the outside wall wont that push the wall cladding out or is that panel recessed into the framing
Hi David any clad wall with a bracing panel would need to be packed out the same thickness as the bracing sheet
Thanks for your Vids, just looking for advice on noggins. I can see how it would be easier to stagger the noggins on that centre line of them, but I see some videos where all the noggins are level on the same height (that would be harder to do (skew nailing etc) so if I do them in a staggered format will it be harder to line a room with gyprock, unsure? Thanks for your videos.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, it is standard to have the noggins in the staggered format and it wont make it any easier or harder whichever way you do it. Just be aware some products, like "Blueboard" need to have the edge of the sheet continuously supported. Hope this helps.
Awesome, do you have video of how to install & finish window openings after the rough framing & the process of interior and exterior sliding doors?
Hi Mate, again i dont but this channel may help
ruclips.net/channel/UCRVvh18wdBhwaBLplQ2XZaw
Buildsum cheers!
thanks maite
Morning Buildsum, Im really learning a lot from your videos they are explained so well,I was just wondering if you have a video on calculating the correct size for a window opening while you are constructing the frame work. Also are there any measurement standard work sheets for this as a lot of windows are different sizes. Cheers Grant
Hi Grant
Have a look at this video
ruclips.net/video/VU6FNVitXRM/видео.html
All window manufacturers have a window schedule that will give you the opening size required for their windows. It should be availble on their website.
That was a great comment about some companies handling the lintel differently, thanks for that.
In your example this was a new build, however how is bracing retrofitted to an existing brick veneer wall? For example retrofitting bifold or stacker doors to replace a standard door. There is obviously no longer access to the cavity. There would be an existing timber or perf steel diagonal bracing but that would no longer be possible. I presume the sheet bracing would need to be installed internally?
Yes Pete The bracing would have to be fitted internally and the rest of the stud packed out to match.
Bugger! Ok thanks, I will need to come up with another solution then as it's not the whole wall that will be stripped. Imagine an open plan kitchen (yes with tiled splashback) adjoining the dining area. It's the dining area that will receive the new opening and the kitchen area (on the same wall) will for now be left untouched. The interior studs will need to remain in their existing plane.
I don't think I'm the first to need to do this, so I'm surprised I'm finding it difficult to see how others have coped with this situation. A the moment I'm considering leaving a 450 mm bay in the corner and inserting bracing, basically as a site built "Pryda short Wall Truss". Alternatively, inserting additional framing and fixing some sheet bracing to that frame so the bracing could go internal, and inserting that into the bay, ie that bay would appear as if it had jack studs with double top and bottom plates (if that makes sense) and tying it to the plates with coach bolts. The wall is on timber bearers. Either way I'm wallowing around is a sea of uncertainty as to how either of those brainwaves stand in the eyes of the code! I figure it simply needs to withstand the wind loading, and it shouldn't matter how I get it there. Ha ha ;)
HI Pete
To be honest the reason you cant find anything on it is because you are delving into stuff that a structural engineer would normally be consulted on. While you plan sounds feasible and reasonable to me it would need certification.
Thanks
G'day Buildsum, I've just found your channel and enjoy your videos. If you have the time to respond, I'd love to ask a few questions: I've been waching all the Larry Haun framing videos and now I am trying to 'translate' that info into Australian :)
The yanks seem to use 2x4s for studs and floor/top plates. I gather 90x35 is the closest equivalent for a 2x4 - is that what you use? and the same for floor and top plates?
Also they don't seem to use noggins - is that an Aus standard thing?
When I buy a bundle of H2 or H3 from Bunnings most of them have some bow or twist in them. What's acceptable and what isn't? I know you said use the straightest ones for window and door studs. How do you deal w distorted timber? Do you make all the bows face one way and compensate somehow? I can't find any info on this. Would love your advice. Cheers.
Hi Uri
Yes, we commonly use 90 x 35 or 90 x 45 instead of 4 x 2s, yes same for flooring and Top Plates.
Not sure about the use of noggins in the US but they are a requirement of Australian Standards
ruclips.net/video/UN4Ue8BgkR4/видео.html
Page 34 in this document may help
www.vba.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/29063/Guide-to-Standards-and-Tolerances-2015.pdf
However, this refers to after the straightening process complete, not how you by them out of the store. Personally, I would not buy bulk timber from Bunnings a local timber yard would be better, however, some bowed timber is unavoidable. The worst can be used for the shorter members like the noggins.Yes, all bows should be put in the same direction to make straightening easier as per the How to Straighten a timber wall frame
Hope this helps
Thanks heaps. Yes I saw that video after I commented - great work thank you and happy new year :)
Uri Auerbach noggins allow you to fix standard plaster sheets on there side. They also stop flex on the stud. Australian sizes will match American measurements as everything originated in imperial before we converted to metric. That why timber comes in lengths of 1200, 1500, 1800, 2100 and so on. It's just feet converted. Our studs are 90x45. That 4"x2".
If that wall is to be load bearing as the beam above the window would suggest then the top and bottom plates need to be doubled. Also the doorway needs a beam above it like the window. For me max stud spacing for 4"x2" shouldn't exceed 16" O/C, 👍 🔨 🇮🇪
Hi Mate, Yes if this was to be a load bearing wall the door would required a lintel however it was just drawn for the purpose of the terminology. However, here in Australia at least, we dont require the double top and bottom plates for load bearing walls as long a certain conditions are met. They are covered in this video. ruclips.net/video/35K_SMW7_kM/видео.html
Hope this helps
Great explanation, thank you. Do you have an answer to when a ribbon plate is needed? Does it depend on whether there are joins in the top plate; or does it depend on whether it’s a load bearing wall, tiled roof or a tin roof; does it depend on whether there is a window frame or a door within the stud wall, or the span of the wall?
Hi Darren hope this helps
ruclips.net/video/35K_SMW7_kM/видео.html
Perfect, thank you!
Great explanation, What is the nail size re 90 x 35 frame and 90 x 45 frame. Thanks.
Hi Mate, nowadays you need to use 90mm nails for nailing the plates to the studs.
Hi, how much of the wall needs to be covered by diagonal or sheet bracing?
Hi, it depends on the amount of wind load that will act on the building and the amount of resistance that the bracing unit gives.
Some framing companies put a diagonal brace on every wall so it easier to install and plumb the walls.
Re Nails, Had some say 75 or 90mm.
Hi, Thanks for the video..I was wondering for internal walls here in NSW can you have stud spacings of 600mm and can you use 70 x 35 mm structural pine? Also if doing external stud walls, (I was thinking at 450 centres), is it ok to use 70 x 35 also for that?
Thanks,
Tony
Tony Adams Hi Tony All timber sizes and spacing are determined using the AS 1684 Timber Framing Code and mainly depend on the size and the weight of the roof and the grade of the timber that you are using.
Non load bearing internal walls can be 70 x 35 mm structural pine spaced at 600mm centers as the are taking no weight.
However I have never seen or calculated 70 x 35 mm structural pine for External Load bearing walls. The smallest I have seen was 70 x 45 however this was for a corrugated iron roof with no notching to the studs.
I would suggest that you get hold of a copy of the Timber framing code applicable to your area and have a look at that or consult with a builder or building consultant.
Thanks for the answer.
I appreciate it
Thanks
Tony
Tony Adams 👀
Very helpful video. Have you got any for calculating steel frames?
Hi Sophie, Steel frames would be basically the same however as they need to be engineered it is not something that you would be building onsite yourself.
Goodmorning, thank you very much for this very detailed and well explained video! It helped me a lot in understanding how a wall is build. Me and my wife are in the process of building our own tiny house. I wanted to ask you what you recommend for spacing between the studs. I get a bit mixed information online, from 30cm to 60 cm between the studs.
Hi Samuel, the standard here in Australia is 450mm or 600mm however it really depends on the lining and the cladding that you will be attaching to the studs. Manufacturers will specify the minimum support required so that should be your stud spacing. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum thank you for such a fast response, yes this helps a lot already. Also it clarifies a lot why i found so many different opinions.
I will then indeed contact the manufactur, is this normally the manufacur for the lining and cladding? or the manufactur for the studs. anyhow, thank you a lot :)
Hi Sam, no problem, You should be able to get hold of the installation manual for what ever Cladding or Lining you decide to use.
settings, playback speed, 1.75x
Thanks mate, fair dinkum explanation. what's the standard spacing for centres? 450mm for external walls and 600mm for internal? you only mentioned the noggins @1350 high. great vid thanks again, just about to go spastic on a building spree on my land!
Hi Mate, the spacing depends on the lining materail and could be 450m or 600mm for any of the walls.
Hi Mr. Buildsum thanks for this tutorial. my question is about the dimension, for all framing materials I need this or if you can tell where I find referents books. I working for framing company and I just work like a Drawing person but, if I can help for calculate other material is better for me. Thanks Luis.
Luis Melo Hi Luis in Australia we have Australian Standards that help us to calculate the sizes of the framing members the main one being AS 1684 Timber Framing Code. I would imagine that you would have the same. Other wise most material manufacturers produce their own span tables that you can use to work out the size required for thier products
Where is you Trimmer for the door?
Hello, Im not native english so I'd like to know if the difference between how we name each peace of a frame wall is because of the english speaking (UK vs EEUU for example). I mean, you say "Jack Studs" and i have seen the same with "Cripple Stud", same with "Header" and "Lintel", "Trimmer" and "Jamb Stud", "King Stud" and "Window Stud". ¡Thanks!
Also "nogging" and "Blocking" (or "Fire Blocking") :)
Hi Sergio
I'm sure that the same member is called many different names depending on where you come from, English speaking or not, even here in Australia we have different names depending on the State or Town you were trained in so it is confusing.
The names I have used are written in the Australian Standard AS 1684 - Timber Framing Code.
Thank you!
Good to know.
do you have to make sure that the 2x6 in the bottom plate split a stud where they end?
Hi Jon
This video might help
ruclips.net/video/Xw018GiKWuw/видео.html&lc=Ugw8Uq2CJBnP1eX3WmF4AaABAg
9
Hi JOHN,
Do you know the software which most framing carpenters use for framing design before they do the job on site?
second question is when I brace the frame? after all the wall join together or when each wall still lying on the ground?
Thanks.
Roger
Hi Roger
Personally, i didn't use any software it all comes off the plans.
The wall should be braced after they are all stood and plumbed, however, it is common for the bracing to be tacked in place on the ground because it is easier to do then, however, they need to be able to be adjusted if needed once stood.
is than mean the floor plan is enough for you?
Hi Roger
The floor plan and the elevations should give you all the information that you need when used with AS 1684.2
Get frame dimension off plan to build your own. If being made at factory use MiTek 20/20.
Why do you need metal bracing if you are going to cover the outside with plywood and the interior with sheetrock?
Hi Raymond, the metal bracing can be used as a tempoary bracing to hold the wall square and plumb while tha ply and the internal lining is installed. Also not all countries sheet the entire out side of the building with ply they only use ply if the metal bracing is not going to be sufficent. Hope this helps.
I have some terrible looking opening head in my house. After watching this video, I assume there is a trimmer and jack stud in side. Do you think I can remove the opening head without affect the building structurally.
Hi Peter, you would have to have a look in the roof and see if there is any supports landing on top of that wall before you start doing anything with it.
@@Buildsum thank you. Will do so.
Great vid , My Question is , what will determine the position of lentil over window opening? do we have to pre measure window opening then lay lentil over? Thanks in advance
+jivara sulaiman Hi Jivara Yes you will need to know the Stud opening dimensions for your window, you will also need to consider the Drop Off of you eaves if you have one.
ruclips.net/video/hr9qw2jbYco/видео.html
The lintel should be above this.
It is common practice to place the lintel hard up under the top plate and then just frame out to suit the window.
Hope this helps
+Buildsum Thanks that is helpful!!
jivara sulaiman 👀
Can we do a German braising here?
What type of program do you use?
Hi Vinnie, I use Sketch Up for all my drawings
Hi Mr builder. which software do you use to draft those walls?
Hi luis, I use SketchUp for all my drawings
great video mate. just wondering with the ply bracing, is it better to put them on when the wall is flat on the ground, after you get it nice and square, or after it is erected? thanks.
Hi Alex
It is easier to attach the ply brace before you erect it however once you stand the wall up you wont be able to plumb it if necessary. I would tack the sheet on in the corners to hold the wall square but still allow you to adjust if after standing if necessary.
Thanks for the feedback
Buildsum thanks for replying. what do you mean by plumbing the wall? would you only need to do this if the floor wasnt level? so say it was a timber sub floor, you then erect the wall, and nail the bottom plate down, then, if you havnt attached the ply yet, you have a little bit of lateral movment to get the studs nice and plum, but even if you attach the ply only in the corners you still wouldnt have much lateral movment to play with i think
HI Alex
Yes in theory you should only need to plumb the wall if the floor is not level however in practice you always seem to need to adjust slightly. By tacking the corners this will allow you to keep the wall square while you move nd stand the wall and then you can easily release the 2 bottom nails and make the adjustment while the top nails hold the sheet in place. Once all the walls are Plumb you can then go around and nail them all off
usually they nail the ply wood after the wall is erected
Nicely done as always. With very wide lintel, are the multiple jack studs simply nailed together or do they have thin blocking separating each one?
When installing a wide lintel into an existing brick veneer wall, it's likely that diagonal bracing will need to be changed for sheet bracing, but I'm not sure how that would be done with the veneer already in place. How is this normally handled, assuming conventional gyprock lining, where you also wouldn't want to affect the wall thickness?
Hi Pete
Multiple studs are just nailed to each other, the bottom plate and the lintel itself.
As for the bracing i have never really worried about it, the metal diagonal braces contribute very little bracing effect in the whole scheme if things however the only way would be to strip off all the Gyprock on the inside and add the ply brace to that wall then Gryprock back over. There is no way of doing it without increasing the wall thickness thai i know of
Buildsum ok thanks. In the example I was thinking of the plaster will all be coming off anyway, it's a 50 year old house so I may as well straighten the remaining studs as required and hang new gyprock there anyway; a very small cost in the grand scheme of things as I'll definitely be doing all the non-structural work myself anyway. The only way I could think of to sheet brace it would be to pull all the required common and corner stud out too, basically "pre-fab" replacements with the bracing in place, then reinsert into the existing top/bottom plate as one unit, if that makes sense. It would need to be done as the first op, otherwise essentially the whole wall is propped if the lintel is already installed. The only other way I could think of would be to check it in to the front of the studs, but I think that would be very time consuming and not very practical solution.
Is this also applicable with metal studs and tracks?
Hi Ryan, yes it is the essentually the same for metal frames.
Code for window and door studs 90x35x2 or 90x45x2? Thanks
AS 1684 in Australia.
Don't you need a header above the door as well. Can you please explain? Thank you
Hi Mike, If the wall was a load bearing wall then yes you would however they are not required on a non-loadbearing wall. You could make the assumtion that because there is a window in the wall shown then it is most likely an extenal loadbearing wall however it was just drawn to show the members that are in a wall not as an actual wall in a building. Hope this helps
What software is this?
+Alex Scott (AlexDesign) Hi Alex It's Google SketchUp
hello @buildsum can you tell me the phase of building a house please I need to know this.
+tamkin pashton Hi Tamkin
This seems like a good article that should answer your question
www.propertyobserver.com.au/finding/residential-investment/house-and-land/17170-the-13-steps-in-the-construction-phase-of-building-a-new-home-jo-chivers.html
+Buildsum thank you very much sir. I really appreciate it. I always watch your videos.
T S very good question👏👏👏
Hi, how can I bulid a free-standing wall (3mts X 3 Mts high) so it does not move side to side, as there is not top plate fixed to the ceiling ?Ta
HI Adrian, good luck with that, unless the wall is going to be connected to the ceiling at both ends then there is no chance of not having it move side to side.
@@Buildsum is there a Max wall height limit at which it can be done?
No mate, it will have to be attached to the ceiling at least both ends regardless of height. The connection does not have to be the wall continuing all the way up, you could use decorative features to make the connection and keep the open look going.
@@Buildsum Thanks for the advice
Do you need double jack if you do 1600 opening for a door ? And header
Hi Mate, that is a pretty subjective question as it will differ depending on the type of timber you are using, the length of the studs, whether the wall is loadbearing or not, roof loads, the country you are in and other factors. However as a rule of thunmb, any opening that is wider than the stud spacing being used will require a Header (Lintel) of some sort and nowdays it is quicker to use a Jamb Stud to support is rather that checking the Lintel into the single Window stud. Hope this helps
@@Buildsum hi mate thx you for your reply ,i see what you mean ,i try to get answer as is so hard a carpernter to do you work now days ,thx for the help
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🔥🔥🔥
Thanks Mate
Hi Buildsum, what software did you use to draw and demonstrate the frame?
+Chunyang Tai Hi Chunyany i use Google SketchUp for all my drawings
Thank you for your prompt reply! I actually just realised by going into your channel which clearly states Google SketchUp is being used. Love you channel - very informative, straightforward and clear.
Which is the correct framing method?
Stagger noggins
Level noggins, centered between top and bottom plate
Buildsum Ok cheers, can't afford the AS 1684.2, so as a first time renovator just making sure everything I do is to standards
Thanks very helpfull
Michael Manning 👍
Hi mate,
What software do you use ? Is it sketch up ?
Hi Mate, yes I use SketchUp for all my drawings
there should be two top plates(double) and u also forgot a lintel(header) on top of the door frame. other than that, good video :)
HI Mate
Actually there is no need for a double top plate unless your trusses or rafters fall more than 1.5 time the depth of the top plate away from the stud. The other reason you commonly see double top plates is to lift trusses above internal walls however you could just make the internal walls shorter and achieve the same result.
ruclips.net/video/_T5UPm0tuSE/видео.html&lc=z12iitxyiuibs111u23igvqqhs2rddsgn04
As for the lintel, while technically, not correct for a load bearing wall it is acceptable for a non load bearing wall and i had already shown a lintel in the video.
Other than that thanks for your comments.:)
what program are you using
Hi Mate I use SketchUp for all my drawings.
@@Buildsum thanks so much
Did you say plate, or plank?
Hi Mate, plate.
Lintel aka header
Hi Jason, all of my videos and terminology are as per the relevent Australian standards, that door opening is pretty typical for a non load bearing wall here in Australia. I can imagine that America would have stricter requirements due to some of the extreme weather that you get. As far as real world experiance I worked as a contractor for 15 years and now teach carpentry.