I am a dozer owner & operator. One of the critical mistake i see with new operators is running the machine hard and then just put it park and kill the machine without letting idle for a few minutes. This mistake burns the seals in the turbo and subsequently fries the engine.
Yup. I'm a 50 year veteran long haul truck driver, and it is surprising how many "pro" drivers do that. That turbo is spinning without oil if you shut it off at high RPM. I drive sports cars, and I had my car at the shop a while ago. When I came to pick it up, I started it and it ran like crap for a minute. At first i thought they destroyed my engine, but then it smoothed out. I know exactly what caused that. They revved the heck out of it, and shut it off! The fuel injected engine was flooded unnecessarily. Why do people do that? There's no rhyme or reason to rev any engine and shut it off!
@@williamfrazier8751 as a heave equipment mechanic. A few minutes idle time giving fluids and hard parts a moment to cool before shutting off the machine is very important with ALL heavy machinery
Take a little extra care armoring the hydraulic system, that's where the guy in Colorado failed. The exit strategy might include a finale pass through a tunnel or a large indoor building so you could hop out unseen and join the onlookers, no use dying in it like he did.
Having been an Equipment Operator for going on 44 years now I can safely say that you are definitely NOT a finish or shaper operator. Yes it takes hours/years to develop finish skills but all the things you say do not do are crucial to finish control over a dozer. It is sad to see the skills which took me over 4 decades to develop can now be duplicated by pressing one button. But GPS Machine Control doesn't always work, if you can't do it the old-school way you might as well stay home.
@@BigBlock632 I believe it, both Topcon and Trimble are good I use both. But I can still finish grade or shape a golf course better than any GPS can and faster. I learned how to operate a dozer when I was 12, a 1953 D5, pony motor, cable blade, direct drive, no ROPs not even an umbrella. That old dozer could finish smoother than anything I've run since...
@@BigBlock632 I don't think this guy runs a school more like an amusement park with iron instead of rides. Good for him but, if he's not a truly qualified operator he should keep his opinions to himself. As it is, qualified operators are very hard to find. At some point there won't be a need for us anymore. The latest Trimble revision will actually steer a dozer.
Well said, I was training a new hand on a D9T. He asked me about the grade control buttons. I said they were broke. Learn the old school, then you can be lazy. But get the skills.
You just saved my job here in South Louisiana,as I have No previous Dozer operator experience and we are Grading and doing a Sanitation dump for a small town. I made every mistake you stated in this video ! Yes sir , Verbatim each mistake I operated by , I was doing exactly as shown. Now I can actually Avoid making the machine overwork and get professional results !! I feel better now I have listened to this Pro today ,this assuring I have a job tommorow,as I know my boss will observe my tractor operation on the D- 9 moving all the clay and dirt. Thank you , Mike Edwards crowley louisiana. Much needed video tutor !!
@@flatheadfletch it depends on the make and year of the bulldozer...mine was a 1988 D- 9 with extra filter cans and a hydrostatic pressure release Valve. Top speed 30 Miles an hour. In the deep Louisiana bayou ..about 5 mpn. Before it sinks in the swamp . Multiple recovers . It sat for two weeks in the march and goop if the mud and sticks.
I am a retired operator,70, my first time running a dozer at 23 the owner told me run it like I wanted, no matter who liked or not my method, Last of the true blue top operators, no gps
The best advice I ever got on a dozer was all the work is done in the seat of the machine. You can feel yourself slipping forward in the seat pull up, if you feel like you are getting pulled back push down. Same thing for side to side.
My dad owns an excavation company. Dozers and blades were always the trickiest for myself and the new guys to operate. Great job and thanks for your videos. Sometimes the little things mean so much.
The first instruction offered me just before running my very first piece of equipment was "know right now that this machine operates at two speeds; dead stop and wide open beginning at a snail's pace". That was the best instruction I ever learned!
I really like it when a new guy asks where all the interlocks are and what quirks the machine has. Makes me feel a little better about their maturity level and the crew doesn't have to stand around laughing for half an hour while the new guy tries to get the machine to move.
The last 9 years I’ve been a paver man everyday but in layoffs, rain days, pre season I would help grade , do Digout stuff /sub grade/drains etc. commercial geothermal climate control loops &wells etc ….. this winter I started doing tree work and got to be crane operator today for the first time. . For the last 5 years (ever since the old man gave me my first master key set) I would finish with my paving work and go jump in the graders, dozers and go “practice” cutting grade trying to get familiar with different machines. but tomorrow I get to spend some time in a nice d9 and cleanup the lot and I came to RUclips to look for tips on the specific model I’ll be using. Grease points, fluids what to inspect etc. I’m always that guy asking those questions everywhere I’ve been and not one time has anyone ever thanked me for being overly inquisitive when I’m about to do something new and unfamiliar it’s usually some shitty response like this isn’t rocket science 😂 now I have spent time learning from some world class experts that are awesome teachers but no one’s ever said hey thanks for asking that and actually giving a shit and wanting to do things correctly efficiently and safely 🙏. I read your comment and immediately thought why couldn’t I have worked for this guy?😂.
Sane here, and if you take a big bite you give lift your foot more. Especially if your high up on a pile at the edge of a drop off, I always use it to control speed.
I agree on the older iron your only choice of speed control was the decelerater, but on the newer machines there's such a finer control that rpms up is better. Especially in the hydrostatic models
Agreed! In fine grading when precision is more important than power the pedal slows down the blade with the machine! Just my personal preference. And also about skimming the top with a empty blade. While fine grading there are set elevations or a FFE. You have to follow so theres not always the need to carry a full blade if the material isn't needed to finish the project! At that point your working yourself twice as hard! Dont be afraid to back drag either BUT ONLY when finishing! I hate to see a dozer make a pass blade down then slam into reverse with the blade on float back dragging with a foot or better from grade
A good operator always shovels out their tracks after their shift ,especially in freezing Temps if soil is left in place the carrier rollers can freeze and the track chain will wear flat spots on the carrier rollers ,and a good operator will look over their machine ever day and look for missing or loose bolts ,and never abuses the equipment ,that equipment pays their wages.
I agree but this is on management to enforce in proper workflow orientation and training with inspection. If you cant show the cause of an issue down to an exact person or thing, then its just maintenance absorbed by the company.
I disagree a good operator gets out of the cab without a run down and jumps into his truck and heads straight to the bar to tell everyone how awesome he is
A good tip I got from an operator in the oil patch was to change your direction of travel when levelling. If you constantly go in the same direction you will never get the ground level. Going on an angle or directly across the previous pass makes for a more level surface without all the frustration.
With regard to the 5th step of dropping your blade, I always with my backhoe move all the levers just a bit in every position to release any hydraulic pressure, even though the bucket or digging bucket are resting on the ground. This is done after I shut off the engine.
@Jeff Harmon Totally agree. Also, a bucket or boom should never be raised in a precarious position since not only can the children bump the controls, but a line could burst, especially on an older machine like mine and could easily kill someone. I always assume a line could burst, so I never allow anyone to get into a position where the boom or bucket could hit them if a line bursts.
Yeah, something I learned from grandad and dad. "Unload the hydraulics so the implement does not unload on someone when a hose breaks. When do hoses break?" Answer: "All the time" (They seem to) Answer: "That is why you unload the hydraulics ALL THE TIME."
Wonderful video! The sound quality is top notch. Each subject is addressed concisely yet brief enough to not be boring. The different camera angles a great aid in understanding. This is by far one of the BEST instructional videos I have seen. Keep up the good work and thank you!
Spot on with this info! I don’t operate a dozer for a living, rather lease machines for a month at a time for dirt work, lane clearing, grubbing, etc. on the ranch. It took me a little while to learn all this by trial, error, and frustration.
The new equipment with cabs and electronics are awesome! It chaps me to see the cab interiors cluttered and filthy, which happens way more than it should. remember, the cab is supposed to keep you out of the grime! I started out on an older dozer also, but I'm also really happy that the technology has advanced so much, because as you mention, most operators today would have no idea how to start a pony start machine or rethread a cable blade when you were a little slow to get out of the cut and snapped it in too.
I’m a new operator and I bought a D6C and it has none of those amenities! I like that it is also so simple that I have to go old school learning to grade etc.
@@carysanders26 I have an old school d3c that I still have to use all of the old lessons, but I am learning to integrate newer technology, i.e., lasers and grade controls, but I also have to truly appreciate the up to date "creature comforts" that come with newer cab dozer that I have as well.......I'm getting long in the tooth, but I am still learning new things all the time, if you want to stay ahead in the earthworks world as it is today you HAVE to keep learning!!!!!!!!
Respect the power of the equipment. I learned early on that when using hydraulic equipment that regardless of the speed in which you could react, the machine could not stop or change motion instantaneously. And no computer control can change this, there is an amount of time the fluid takes to compress or decompress that is a physical property of the fluid, and the heavier the parts you are moving the more force and time it takes to change their motion. With hydraulic equipment their are huge forces involved, needed to move heavy equipment, and materials. Respect.
Liquids are not compressible, a compressible fluid is called a gas. Hydraulic fluid does not change density while the equipment operates, this is one of the main reasons it it used. Flow and pressure regulation would be what causes any lag in movement.
Keep them off ice ,and watch out for logs on steep inclines, especially going dow down over them. I've had a D10 turn into a sled on a log , more than once. Lol
I purchased a little case 310-f dozer a couple months ago.Going over it and correcting lots of issues from the past owners.One item is some one removed the foot brake pedal and linkages.Owner prior to me did not know why.I am planning on using the machine to assist my Kubota Bx23 s in removing trees and stumps and grading in a driveway.Also benching a spot on a 14 percent grade to put my new home.All if not most of my work will be in First and reverse.My suspicion is the person who removed the foot brake was to keep from riding it and wearing out the brake bands.I learned a lot from this video and I thank you for the help!
@@TheDieselndust Though OSHA gets a bit of flak for some of their regulations, I can understand that one. I'm actually surprised there aren't more comments about it, since he didn't mention it in the video.
Great video! For you new guys those conditions in the video are rare. You'll likely start out in a pos with with zero traction or horsepower which means you'll need to operate a little different than in the video to compensate. Without horsepower traction is worthless, without traction horsepower is worthless. The big issue with new operators is not parking on a level spot so the fluids can be properly checked the next day. Be sure to lock out the transmission (set the parking brake) everytime you go to get out like for a piss. A 2 year experienced operator did that, he left the blade up and stood in front of the blade. The dozer ran over him. Wear YOUR SEATBELT AT ALL TIMES. A dozer cutting edge can catch a rock an it will throw you out of the seat.
That would make the advise "piss down wind, but not down hill from the tractor". I work on agricultural tractors and find the parking brakes horrible. I always try and leave an implement attached to stop it from rolling down hill.
Dozer operator here! I been working on Cobblestone mixed with top soil and tree roots for a big project to do final grade for 3 weeks now and let me tell you nothing is more Frustrating. There is times I get off the dozer and just walk away for 15 min and come back to it.. I just subscribed to ur chanel love the videos
Thanks for the comment. First, good call on sometimes just taking a break! Often it's good to step out and even get a different perspective. I will say, that hopefully you got tree roots removed because it will be virtually impossible to get a finish grade if you are dealing with those.
Also the smoother you go forward the faster you can go backing up and when these big contractors like Ryan Central or Walsh pile the trucks on and you’re feeding a hoe or placing stone speed is your friend.
Greetings from Vancouver Island British Columbia Canada 🇨🇦 Great video for beginners Built logging roads for 30 years Loved it Ran Dozer, front End loader, rock Drill and excavator
I build logging roads now, been doing it for 5 years. I like figuring out how to manage steep slopes for log trucks to go up. I run a D-8H and a 330B. What did you use?
Well, yep, put those attachments on the ground before exiting the machine. I couldn’t care less about the climbing on and off part, but safety would be my main reason. Nothing like a missing body part because of failed hydraulics. I’ve seen it on the job site, not a pretty picture. What not to do’s in this video are spot on, of course there are countless more. I learned on a D7f over 35 years ago. Glass and a heater in the snow? Ha ha. Joysticks? Not a chance. Try a cable operated with a straight shift and pony motor to start it. My dad learned on one of those in the 50s and 60s. My oh my how heavy equipment has changed. For the better no doubt. Just remember, safety is always first. That will never change.
Thanks for the comment. I would love to be able to try one of those old cable operated units...I'm quite certain it would be entertaining to watch...lol
ExtremeSandbox yeah, dad used to put me on his with him when I was in diapers, really. I ran one for fun years ago. No tilt, no swivel, just up and down. Some of course you could manually lock into a 45 degree angle to windrow. Amazed me they ran off a winch. Simple, but effective.
CHEERS!!! Well I started on "stomp and pull" but worked on cable rigs back from Greenland and even ran cable hoes back then! Yep I agree on grounding anything raised as we had one of the worst ever incidents here in Arizona involving a parked push pull with an elevated can. As you can guess.....an ENTIRE family of farm workers took a siesta/break under the can and it dropped on them (kid accidentally engaged lever) Fatalities info available at OSHA circa 1990> Anyway....this vid is ok I guess but I run skinny lifts regardless of machine type just as instinct to produce max efficiency with compaction for anybody rolling into my track But these kids got no clue and they think 1 foot lifts are really cool....jeeezzz.....if it passes I get it-but I do it faster and skinnier and geo techs dont even check me.....yawwwnnn...blah blah..... CHEERS!
I always tilt my trailer a the end of the day if I'm expecting rain, so that it drains off instead of sitting, but I always put blocks beneath and have it rest on them. Same when you need to work on it; *always* make sure it's resting on something.
I’m a farmer and have never operated a real tracked dozer, but I do have a dozer blade on a John Deere farm tractor. We contour farm with terraces and have to repair them after heavy rains break them. When I have to use my dozer blade on a wheeled tractor, it’s very important to remember my equipment’s limitations and not overload the blade with material. Small bites get the job done and too big of bites causes the wheels to spin and the blade to gouge the ground unevenly and take more time in fixing. Great advise about lowering the blade. Hydraulics can and do fail. People have been maimed or killed trusting hydraulic hoses that can burst at anytime!
One of my regrets in life was not working in this field. I owned a bobcat a small excavator and i did spend a little time on a finish dozer and full size excavator. I absolutely loved it. Trying to get grade with a small dozer ia definitely a lot harder than you might think. Those guys out there are really skilled
I read these comments and I am really honored by the wisdom of my fellow Americans..and to be starting my heavy equipment op training. I opted against OTR CDL last minute to do this. Great comments that will also help me use a dozer to prepare my slab on grade for a new house on land my gf decided to buy in the sticks after she had a dream that China dropped an EMP on us.
One thing I make new operators do Is park dozer on level ground with blade on ground. take notice where top blade is in relation to rest of the dozer, and tell them that's your straight line. And notice how your seat feels, that's your level .
Great advice. We do something like that in our Bulldozer 201 training video where I use a PVC pipe to show them how blade angle relates to their tracks. It seems pretty common sense, but would be shocked how new operators sometimes don't see it right away.
Different tactics for different operational needs. Not everyone is working on level ground. At my operation a level ground or dozer only exists when you exit a very large stockpile with a limited footprint. Workload accumulating 24/7 at massive rates where product turns to concrete if not blended and ripped constantly. Ideal slope is 10-15%, but the misconception that a dozer is a grooming piece of equipment leaves slopes upward to 25-30% due to leaving too much Earth behind and spreading it out. Different tactics for different applications of operation. There is no say all be all when dozing Earth. My best advice for safe operation of a dozer is, "keep the blade FULL at all times".
The guy that taught me to operate took me to a job site that was level within 1/10th over 11 acres. He had me blind folded and directed me via radio were to drive for 1 hr. He then sent to drive with no knowledge to a 2 in cut. That 2 in cut felt like I was rolling that 955. I know the feeling of level. Now when I'm in a basement and below the horizon I'll just stop for a second close my eyes an check level.
Excellent video some of old school operators had the opportunity to learn from older operators that didn't necessarily want to teach new guys but helped the when they made mistakes I learned from a fellow that ran an old d7g he would start out with a shovel full and end with a full blade at the end of his push some operator don't want to teach skills they have acquired
I've never been on a dozer, but a lot of what you're talking about also applies to grading with a skid steer.. Loading the tool (bucket in my case) is critical to getting consistency.. Also, I couldn't agree more about keeping the throttle up and staying OFF of the accelerator pedal.. Although I've had some old school operators suggest otherwise, I always want full power available to my tracks, tool and lift arms.. There's plenty of sensitivity in the joystick of my Cat 299d to track at whatever speed is required..
Same thing applies to loading a front end loader bucket. Go into the pile slow and apply more power as you lift and curl the bucket back. You should get a full bucket every time without digging holes with to much power.
I operate a D9T with 19’wide 12’ tall blade,we build roads for 988 loaders pushing wood chips been doing it for 25yrs.12hr. Days ,operated every kind of crawler made,this new 9T is a dream to operate
New backfiller here, some tips I’ve been told by some pro dozer guys are these 1. Get some dirt in front of that blade, it helps huge to avoid the washboard shit 2. Try to avoid back dragging, “real dozer operators don’t backdrag” 3. Always start on a flat surface 4. Once you get good enough to run in 2nd or 3rd, going faster can make it easier to push grade if you know your machine 5. Sand is the best to learn in because it’s the hardest material to keep smooth , one you master sand everything else is a cakewalk
been dozer operator since 1992 and my father before that since 1968 and we both backdrag to put that sheen on the finished product and I consider myself a professional operator
When you are pushing with a full blade and need to cut around a corner. You can use your blade to help steer the machine by digging the corner bit in on the side you are turning towards and still maintain a full blade.
Blade steering. Absolutely needed in slot dozing. You never ever touch the clutches in a D11 unless you're empty and repositioning. You can make some pretty amazing turns while keeping all your material just by using the blade. Also if your blade is loaded on one end and it starts to pull you that way, you counter it with the blade to help remain straight. We do some amazing finishing work with large dozers and waste blades, all done through feel.
I do that a lot when I am clearing land and pushing a heavy load of trees/brush. Just pop the corner of the blade momentarily into the ground and pull it right back up. The steering correction will be made and I can keep the pile moving in front of the machine.
hey bud, pretty good basics in the video. i been operating 25yrs, about 10 of them in a dozer. everything from a komatsu d21 to a cat D8 with rippers. i'd have to say the one major thing i learned in that time about "new" operators is they forget themselves to quickly after ya teach them to much. so here's a little advice to all new operators, respect Anyone that will take the time to teach you how to better put food on your table and pay your bills. They have spent years accumulating and honing the knowledge they are telling you in the 5 minutes they talk to you. End of lesson.
You are not a boss, you are a leader. Lol. Thank you for your calm and easy to follow demeanor. You would be a breath of fresh air as far as a Forman goes. Your team is fortunate to have you around. God bless my man
I own a small landscaping company, and I have similar issues teaching new employees how to use the mowers. You'd THINK that would be pretty straight forward, but most of the recruits I get aren't property owners and many haven never even used a lawnmower before.
Yeah, I also think us operators that maybe have done it for awhile just assume others should pick it up quicker. It just takes time for anyone learning something new.
@@HeavyMetalLearning Of course, one has to be patient, but still keep an eye on them and correct when nessesary. The last thing you want is for Strata to contact you about one of the owners complaining.
Running a small farm with a tight budget, we tend to have to make equipment last and even on my small tractor, I always put my hydraulic equipment on the ground and after shut down, run through all the different motions with the controls to make sure there isn't any high pressure fluid left in the cylinders to cause leaks or blow seals. It's just the way I was taught and has always served me well, still use the same front end loader we bought in 1998 on the tractor we bought at the same time and haven't had to tear down the cylinders yet
I always drop the blade for safety reasons. Even with the engine turned off, the blade can be lowered. The same goes for excavators, backhoes, skip loaders. All your points on how not to run a crawler were spot on.
@@BurbSK-bi2wh So you are going to assume a hose or a fitting will not give out while the blade, bucket ,or boom is off the ground when you walk away from he machine?
Well done video, for new operators. Might add You can turn with a blade full of dirt "if you are carrying dirt " and not cutting, it does 2 movements when ever adjusting the blade ( when finishing with a dozer that is how it works, no grader to fix anything). I totally agree that one must have dirt in their blade while moving forward, Or there isn't any point. Key point for long pushing jobs is have a FULL FULL blade in rough large material jobs.
A common mistake i see is when stacking material for loading equipment, usually front end loader. Rookies will climb the material trying to stack higher causing it to get packed making the loader having to struggle to get full buckets. Stack it loosely, push into the pile and back up, thats it. Your loader operator will thank you later.
I always found watching other loader guys after fresh material has been dropped they tend to eat up the gravy buckets first, just being to aggressive at the beginning. Less is more get some good smooth slow buckets and try not to really get after a bucket . Later in the pile you will get better consistent buckets because you’ve allowed compaction for traction.
27 years in and he is spot on. Only one itty bitty thing he could have added on speed. The Dozer easily goes to fast for topcon/trimble to keep up. He'll shoot paint balls at me because I'm a decelerator abuser carrying over from Dozers that's not a variable speed (just 3 gears). Thumbs up to those Komatsu's...OMG you can see everything. Want a good laugh? You can always spot the new guy crawling around with the blade in the air as high as it goes. Back dragging King signing out,..salute!
The GPS systems will easily keep up if you know how to tweak your valve tuning on Trimble or gains on Topcon. The newer integrated systems kind of tie your hands on this but the older add on systems it’s pretty simple.
@@knuttsackjones3094 good to know for an owner. Though I stick rule number 1 as a grunt. Liability on equipment I can't afford, I'm not touching anything, especially the old school GPS that came out in 2003-4 that you'll only find parts from a third party.
flippinrawks I know far more about Trimble than anything else. On that you can save your settings before you do any screwing around. Then if you want you just restore settings and it goes right back to what it was before you started pressing buttons. I’ve only ever seen one cb430 box in use. Like I said I don’t know much about topcon but valve speed is called gains. Keep your raise %25 higher than your lower and you’ll be able to run out stone piles in 3rd. I’ve done it with a 6R. If you have any questions let me know👍🏻
Just a heads up, small dressers have the weight farther forward which makes grading a lot harder, but the 1st thing he talked about should help with that.
@@danielkoenes1698 thank you, I kinda figured that out playing around getting a feel for it. From the sound of it you have one of these? I am really enjoying this little machine As for the finish grading I intend on using a tractor and box blade. It more or less gonna be pasture But thank you very much.
@@captnmako I ran one for a couple years, but grading with a box is by far the way to go! That little dresser you have is a great piece though treat her good! Lol
This guy is correct on all he said here. You need to slow down the dozer speed to keep up with the dozer controls. I like to start slow and as the dozer blade gets more material in front it will help stabilize the dozer, to keep the machine from galloping. Far to many operators back drag to much because they can not doze smoothly.
I’m a 40 year experienced operator and first gear is what I use when I want to do a good job your hydraulics cannot respond fast enough in high gears to keep it smooth
Dale Doty so true i run a blade and i wish I could finish in 3rd or 4th gear but it just ain't going to happen trick is make each pass count move material as little as possible. Cut to grade not fill to grade unless you're coming up in a controlled over X. Take care be safe everybody
Cletus I have found you can get on the same machine from a different one and thay just feel different running them at least for me on backhoes. Same machine different feel.
@@rp1645 That's the truth, and to add to that, a good operator should be fluid in going from one machine to the next. After the first few minutes or so, the operator should have most of the little nuances figured out and they should be able to start compensating for it, not going "well on my usual machine."
@@louisianagator95 On a job site we use to have 2 580-C and I ran them both and you could feel the difference in the front bucket controls. The feel of the machine as I drove around the site and you are right after a few, you got good with the machine you where on. CASE use to do a excavator rodeo and had different control patterns on each machine you picked up bowling balls or cones on each station. It was really fun experience.
If you drove around all day with your foot off the deselarator on a real dozer d10 or d11 all u do is burn fuel and spin tracks deselarator is key to control
@Kenneth Schauer for real. I operate a d6 haha. I'm used to being around 7's and 8's but I got on with a company that only has 6's I've never seen a 9, 10, or 11 in person.
On old dozers without hydro drive, and especially straight shifts, you sometimes have to use the decelerator to do slow, precise work. Like right beside a wall or something where you've got to go slow and easy.
I always say and teach to never push with a straight blade with no angle. 6-12” of angle on your blade with offset all of the smallest adjustment bumps on the rollers of the tracks so the machine won’t rock forward and back when it rolls over the “speed bump”. This dramatically helps a consistent smooth grade without having to “start the pass over”.
Not only does dismounting the machine with the blade off the ground make it hard on you or the next guy to get in the cab, it can result in a fine from OSHA if they happen to stop by your site and see unattended machinery with their ground engagement tools in an elevated position.
I’ve had minimal experience with no training on old dozers for personal use no one got hurt no damage was done but it was ugly thinking of buying another dozer for personal use I think I gained a lot from this thank you but I know it’s still gonna be harder than it looks
From a safety stand point, never trust hydraulics! Another good reason to lower all hydraulic equipment to rest. Controls can be hit or bump causing equipment to drop suddenly..
the first key to operating a dozer is to understand how the mechanics of said machine to control grade. I believe the machine wants to maintain a grade, which is either a level grade or a sloped grade, i.e. building roadways. Therefore understand that in order to maintain a grade is to first set up the dozer to sit on the proper plane. if its level/flat set that first, and then go for distance. if building a road set the profile, up down, or cross slope. itsthen just a matter of setting the grade to the ground and with minimum movement of the blade, carry the grade. adjustments are then only needed as the dozer traverses different earth conditions. my adjustments are made only to compensate what is happening under the tracks. So its really by the seat of my pants. No horizon, trying to keep the blade at ground level.... keep material on the blade, let the dozer do its thing and it wants to cut the profile that you set. I like to keep my speed up, which I find that it smooths out the the dozer over the small ups/downs that the tracks encounters which in turn limits my adjustments to the blade, which by nature reduces the divets/speedbumps that are left behind.
I have had many many complain that the dozer just doesn't have any power and my first response is to ask if they cleaned the air filter and the look on their face is priceless. Then they go pull out the filter and you can see the dust pouring out as the filter is removed then when they start tapping it on something there ends up being literally a big pile of dust on the ground and a look of shame and humiliation on their face. Most do not realize if conditions are really dry then there is alot of dust in the air and sometimes that air filter needs cleaned multiple times throughout the day
Too much backblading is what I see often. Dozers are meant to push. I like to leave material at the end of my push to keep road base level and give the trucks something to back up to. Another thing I do is leave the cut a few inches high the trim on last push through.
Trimming and spreading can actually be easier with a little more speed but the key is, is starting from a level area and understand the small blade adjustments required to continue tracking level when the conditions change at the blade. Ie, as depth of fill increases, the degree of material compaction under the tracks increases and without small and correctly anticipated blade adjustments the machine will start to pitch forwards and ramp down. A sudden correction will leave a marked difference in the work surface as well as requiring another 2 correctly gauged and anticipated blade adjustments. *You need to make the adjustment BEFORE you feel the machine pitch change. By the time the tracks roll over the work surface the blade has already covered that ground and it's too late. Handy hint*** If your blade has the ability to roll side to side. A handy way to fix the up-down humps causing the machine to increasingly pitch forward and backwards, is to 'rock' the blade. As in, instead of trying to anticipate and correct blade movements to correct undulations in the work surface caused by machine pitching over previous undulations, (significanly advanced skills required for this, meaning you probably aren't reading this.) you roll you blade from side to side with a small and relatively quick repeated motion until you feel the machine pitching reduce and/or cease. This takes a little practice and is not applicable in every circumstance but where it is and you implicate it quickly enough it is a very handy trick for correcting this situation.
Years ago I played a golf course in Sutherlin Oregon with a few fairways that resembled a washboard road. My dad said this was caused by an inexperienced dozer operator. Hard to forget the experience of driving a golf cart over those fairways and shaking your head at the mess left by the dozer.
Hi my name is Jim I'm a member of local 66 operating engineers that was a very good tutorial there and I like the way you go about it You're not demeaning or anything like that one of the things about turning with a load if you still have more material to cut off you can angle your blade into your turn in other words if you're trying to turn left angle your blade down and then it'll actually help assist you going around the turn if it's just a slight turn anyway thank you for what you're doing I really like your your messaging You're very respectful hey you have a good day and you be careful bye
Hot tip #1, if you are advancing in boggy conditions and you feel the front of the machine start to sink, immediately de-accelerate (try not to apply the brake if possible.) enguage reverse and move off BEFORE raising the blade. It only has to be a very small distance before you start raising it to avoid accumulating material behind it and again start dragging the front lower but keep it where it is for the initial backwards movement then very slightly raise it minimally until most of the track rollers are comfortably back on firm ground. I see this mistake all the time and from some fairly experienced operators too. Such a simple trick avoids many-most situations where the front end has sunk and becoming helplessly bogged is only one or two bad decisions/movements away. If you do start to sink the front and decide you need to retreat and for some reason decides you should lift the blade before reversing, take note off how much worse it makes the already 'too risky too continue' situation. (This is only if you've been considered and cautious enough to be aware of the risk and proceed in a manner that allows you to o stop the MOMENT the front drops enough to cause the machine to become bogged.) Bad feeling when you're already thinking 'ohh, no.... Better try get out of here' As you lift the blade, take note of just how much worse it makes the situation... Hint: It is a LOT.... Now you are faced with the option of trying to reverse with the machine, now technically aready stuck but possibly still able to be saved with correct actions, or lowering the blade and intuitively thinking it will hamper the machines ability to reverse. (It's better to lower it but difficult to now correctly try help take the weight without digging into excessive or relatively solid ground which the blade now has to drag as well.... If youre first attempt at this point fails, don't persevere, before you completely disturbed the ground raise the machine up to let material fall in under the tracks and if the rear section of the tracks is still is decent material, manipulate the machine to lower the rear of the tracks gradually into the material enough so they grab the material and transfernit to under the front. You can lower the machine and attempt moving or you can repeat jacking the machine up and transfer material to the front again , all depends on the situation. And remember, They are heavy things, a little momentum can help alot. So when you feel the tracks do have purchase try capitalize on it. DONT LIFT THE BLADE
So, you must be talking about when a lad lifts the blade and throws it in reverse simultaneously while in the soup. Then we end up with the tail of the tractor facing the sky much like the stern of the Titanic? The you make the tractor do pushups like Jack La Lane believing that will somehow do the situation good. Then you remember Jack La Lane do the breathing thing which actually does help you gain composure before the boss shows up. Been there, done that.
I was told lifting the blade in mud just helps the suction that is already pulling you down. you get STOPPED, back up before you settle while tilting the blade to neutral, and lift it as traction returns.
Good advice. On powershift Cats, operators even experienced ones will doze a heavy load in second gear. Why? It doesn't go any faster if you have a good load on and you just waste fuel and it makes the dozer much harder to handle. Drop them in low gear and let them work. I have 20 years experience and I always doze in low gear. Turning with a load on is hard on them. Always lower any raised equipment when you park no matter what it is.
Basic lessons that use to be taught. People do a one week course and get a certificate and think that’s it. Nothing beats time in the saddle and experienced operator watching on.
Man that thing is Sooooo nice. I've played on crawlers since being a kid. Even been on cable lift blade cats. Only one time being on a joystick dozer. It was worn out , but felt like a dream. The old man knew I had seen me on equipment and was in a bind to finish up several houses. He drove by seeing me gutting firewood and put me to work. It was like mowing grass with a zero turn mower compared to a plain old riding mower. I still have my old Mitsubishi with a manual gear transmission and steering clutches. After a couple hours of using it hard I'm whipped. But his little worn out D4 I covered 8 septic systems and graded all the yards and still felt good to drive home. His dozer looked like a DAWG compared to your plush piece of modern furniture. Like my old Mitsubishi is super tight as far as the pins n bushings are concerned. But it shakes , beats me like a Lifetime movie actress. I've never operated anything like what you were in , but you were talking in normal voice , and we could hear you fine. Nothing I've ever sat on is anything like that. Equipment has really been built to save operators from early deterioration. In college we had an old 2 stroke Detroit Alice Chalmers crawler that we used to push out the landfill on campus. (yes I went to RedNeckTech) We had a work study program. I always volunteered to do landfill , just to play on that antique. My ears would ring for a couple days after pushing with that thing.
One thing I noticed you were talking about was running the dozer or machine at FULL Throttle . As a mechanic and owner , I operate and tell people to operate the dozer or machine at a good 7/8 Throttle and not full throttle = WFO ! That's of course after doing your pre check and maintenance of the dozer or machine and let it warm up before operating and idle down before shutting it off . Why you wonder no doubt ? Because the dozer or machine will last or live longer !! Do you get in your car and run the engine full throttle or wide open ? NO , because you'll blow your engine . You get just about the same power to your drive system with no noticable difference in operation . But the dozer or machine will last longer in life !! Operator's never have to repair or replace anything on heavy equipment or dozer . You just operate it !!
I have run all kinds of equipment. I have my own dozer, trackhoe, farm tractor, motorcycle etc. No mater what it is always review the basics of operation and you have a good chance of staying out of trouble and doing a good job. Thanks for the video !!
Been operating 34 years only made it to step 3 and you have been right on so far these young ones want to go balls to the wall slow down make one good pass and work off that but just slow down
one of the most important things ,maybe most important is to stay focused and cool minded,very often situations ,emotions ,some in vain hurry, or pressure from other people can obscure the mind of the operator and cause fatal mistakes ,for example when i get in the cab of the dozer or excavator i leave everything out of the cab ,if there is something that bothers me , i mean i am not thinking for this or that or some rubbish stuff at all ,just stay focused ,examine very carefully the area and is the ground stable ,than get up in the cab and enjoy the work with this mighty boy with shovel ,or other big vehicle and drive safely .the hurry gets us nowhere .
Set your blade down and ease into your cut. Once you start seeing the material flowering off your blade. You start adjusting your cut based on flow. That is a very tiny Komatsu 61px, the smallest I used was the 65 Komatsu. Then we use 8D Cats and 10 D Cats. I did have my hands on a D7 Electric for about 6 months under trial.
On bigger dozers, D9-D10 size, I'd disagree with the speed thing. From what I've seen training new guys, they put it in 1st and end up over thinking every move and washboarding. I tell them to put it in second once the get a feel for moving the machine and learn to blade in second. But large dozers are a whole different animal than one of those little lawn and garden dozers.
Great video. One of the biggest mistakes I’ve been taught Dozer operators do is, back dragging the blade. The blade is designed to push, not pull. Would you agree or what’s your input on that.
Yes, agree that we could do better at that. These machines have a great rear view camera so visibility is pretty good but I agree it is always a good practice to look over your shoulder as well.
Don't stand behind a operating piece of equipment is a rule on my job.. operators can't always see people on foot, its up to people on foot to stay clear of the equipment, works both ways.. yes operators should look but they are limited fov
I deal with a lot of new, young, and inexperienced operators, and I agree with point #1 100%. I see a lot of newer guys with only a few hours of experience on the machine start to get overconfident and up the speed well beyond what their skill level is capable of handling. "Washboarding" the cut/grade is the usual result. I have to pull these "operators" repeatedly and tell them to slow down, and explain how it will help them with the result. There is a bit of a macho thing with the newer operators, they think they need to show off to the super, or other operators on the site. Either that or they see a more-experienced operator make smooth cuts faster than them. It takes a lot of instruction to get these guys out of the "need for speed" habit, so hard for them to accept the fact that they just aren't at that level yet. The other thing I see on occasion is overloading cuts. Newer guys want to take 12" or better cuts on small dozers and end up having the same washboards. More experienced guys make 4-6" cut passes and have excellent results.
Point #1 is the same in pretty much any field. I work in landscaping, and I constantly need to tell people not to mow at high speed. If the mower is jumping around, you're not going to make a good cut. If the machine doesn't have time to chew it's food, you're not going to make a good cut.
its a testosterone issue with young guys. its across the board doesnt matter what industry it is..theres that drive for speed. . . and thats possibly where the old saying orriginated about the tortoise and the hare.
I currently operate a d11t and most of the common mistakes I see is gouging and then trying to raise the blade too fast creating ups and downs. A lot of people I work with often times will backdrag everything because they can't cut a road properly so they end up with a smooth roller coaster road. Also we do a lot of slot dozing due to mining and moving a lot of overburden, if they have a slot they shave the top layer completely across as apposed to short large deep bites and then carrying the material off the pit. That dozer weights above 200000 lbs so every time you track across the fresh ripped ground your compacting it making it harder to get a blade full also your not using the full potential of the blade by using your slot side to keep material in front of your blade. There's a whole lot more I could go into but I don't have the time for it. Hope this helps.
U-blades can be a trick. Good "Okee" dozing (back-dragging) can be a art form for technical reasons though would I agree that most are not very good at it. They just put it in float and wear out undercarriage.
I’m learning to operate a wheel dozer on a mine site. I’ve had a few months of mainly pushing off tipheads but am getting used to floor clean ups and general work. Thanks for some of the tips. I can put them into practice tomorrow
You have a much much more sophisticated dozer than I have, but I bought an old JD 450D just to do stuff on my own property. The guy I bought it from gave me a few tips (knowing I didn't know the first thing about dozing). But one thing he said was the blade was my only break and always (when stopped) make sure it was on the ground firmly enough it couldn't roll away even if you only hop off it for a second. Within the first few days I had it, I was going up a narrow path that goes diagonally up a steep bank. I ran over a wet (maybe 4" diam.) dead tree that was covered with leaves so I didn't see it. I only slid sideways about a foot (toward the bank of course), but I thought it was the end for me and I thought "NOT ALREADY!!!"
side cutting piles and loose bank material where the material falls into the tracks or the side of the track is riding on a ridge of material rather than staying in a flat cut. I know it happens but it's hard on the undercarriage and I avoid doing it and fuss at anyone running my equipment. It's especially important on loaders where the bucket is barely wider than the tracks to begin with.
Yep, i dont operate equipment other than a farm tractor once in a blue moon shredding land. Do plan on getting a dozer in the future. interesting to watch..
I have been a mechanic for linder komatsu for 26 years my biggest is fire up cold equipment and run it full bore till end of day you dont always need the full tilt power
You have to use your decelerator on regular transmission dozers. This one is hydrostatic which does not require deceleration......also tell all new operators to look behind them constantly when backing up.
I'm not experienced with dozers, but even on hydrostats, you cause excessive wear by starting and stopping too fast. They're not cheap to replace on any piece of equipment.
I've been in the dozer business all my life,it takes a few years to get fairly good,dozers are not intended to travel fast,a dozer didn't even need a3rd gear,you will become seasoned operator in about 20 years if you make it that long,don't forget maintenance, a new undercarriage is about 20 thousand,don't forget your truck and lowboy ,all I can say is try it you can always sell it
Ive graded plenty in 3rd gear on a d6. Day after day. Some people are just better than others. Spread 3 or 400 loads of dirt a day and you will use 3rd gear a lot.
I am a dozer owner & operator. One of the critical mistake i see with new operators is running the machine hard and then just put it park and kill the machine without letting idle for a few minutes. This mistake burns the seals in the turbo and subsequently fries the engine.
Yup. I'm a 50 year veteran long haul truck driver, and it is surprising how many "pro" drivers do that. That turbo is spinning without oil if you shut it off at high RPM. I drive sports cars, and I had my car at the shop a while ago. When I came to pick it up, I started it and it ran like crap for a minute. At first i thought they destroyed my engine, but then it smoothed out. I know exactly what caused that. They revved the heck out of it, and shut it off! The fuel injected engine was flooded unnecessarily. Why do people do that? There's no rhyme or reason to rev any engine and shut it off!
@@williamfrazier8751 as a heave equipment mechanic. A few minutes idle time giving fluids and hard parts a moment to cool before shutting off the machine is very important with ALL heavy machinery
Yeah I have definitely heard that, that is the case for cars or just cars and trucks with turbos in general.
Great video! One thing I learned back in the 1970's, as far as speed goes, if it's rough on you, it's rough on the machine.
I just bought a D9 and I'm just about done welding the armored,cement filled operators cab together...
well that should be interesting to see
@@HeavyMetalLearning that was a tongue in cheek reference to "kill dozer"...the disgruntled guy who armored up a dozer...
Sexy Beast
Yeah, and that guy had every right to do what he did.
@A Lost Pilgram's Journey Roger that!
Take a little extra care armoring the hydraulic system, that's where the guy in Colorado failed. The exit strategy might include a finale pass through a tunnel or a large indoor building so you could hop out unseen and join the onlookers, no use dying in it like he did.
Having been an Equipment Operator for going on 44 years now I can safely say that you are definitely NOT a finish or shaper operator. Yes it takes hours/years to develop finish skills but all the things you say do not do are crucial to finish control over a dozer. It is sad to see the skills which took me over 4 decades to develop can now be duplicated by pressing one button. But GPS Machine Control doesn't always work, if you can't do it the old-school way you might as well stay home.
@@BigBlock632 I believe it, both Topcon and Trimble are good I use both. But I can still finish grade or shape a golf course better than any GPS can and faster. I learned how to operate a dozer when I was 12, a 1953 D5, pony motor, cable blade, direct drive, no ROPs not even an umbrella. That old dozer could finish smoother than anything I've run since...
@@BigBlock632 I don't think this guy runs a school more like an amusement park with iron instead of rides. Good for him but, if he's not a truly qualified operator he should keep his opinions to himself. As it is, qualified operators are very hard to find. At some point there won't be a need for us anymore. The latest Trimble revision will actually steer a dozer.
Well said, I was training a new hand on a D9T. He asked me about the grade control buttons. I said they were broke. Learn the old school, then you can be lazy. But get the skills.
I agree with you 100%
Do you know he’s talking to beginners don’t you
You just saved my job here in South Louisiana,as I have No previous Dozer operator experience and we are Grading and doing a Sanitation dump for a small town. I made every mistake you stated in this video ! Yes sir , Verbatim each mistake I operated by , I was doing exactly as shown. Now I can actually Avoid making the machine overwork and get professional results !! I feel better now I have listened to this Pro today ,this assuring I have a job tommorow,as I know my boss will observe my tractor operation on the D- 9 moving all the clay and dirt. Thank you , Mike Edwards crowley louisiana. Much needed video tutor !!
A D9 only has a decelerator not hydrostatic like this junk kamatsu !
@@flatheadfletch it depends on the make and year of the bulldozer...mine was a 1988 D- 9 with extra filter cans and a hydrostatic pressure release Valve. Top speed 30 Miles an hour. In the deep Louisiana bayou ..about 5 mpn. Before it sinks in the swamp . Multiple recovers . It sat for two weeks in the march and goop if the mud and sticks.
@@michaeledwards4715 those old cats are great machines. we have a d3, d6c and d8k all 1970s and still run like a top.
@@michaeledwards4715 30 mph??😭😭 That one must just fly lol..
I am a retired operator,70, my first time running a dozer at 23 the owner told me run it like I wanted, no matter who liked or not my method, Last of the true blue top operators, no gps
The best advice I ever got on a dozer was all the work is done in the seat of the machine. You can feel yourself slipping forward in the seat pull up, if you feel like you are getting pulled back push down. Same thing for side to side.
Thanks for the comment!
My dad owns an excavation company. Dozers and blades were always the trickiest for myself and the new guys to operate. Great job and thanks for your videos. Sometimes the little things mean so much.
Appreciate that! Thanks!
Hello sir
Marvin Stewart & @Dru Stewart!
Well brother,,you your self where a new guy as well..as we all where when we first stared out…you only get better with more & more seat time…
The first instruction offered me just before running my very first piece of equipment was "know right now that this machine operates at two speeds; dead stop and wide open beginning at a snail's pace". That was the best instruction I ever learned!
Ha....love it...thanks for sharing!
I really like it when a new guy asks where all the interlocks are and what quirks the machine has. Makes me feel a little better about their maturity level and the crew doesn't have to stand around laughing for half an hour while the new guy tries to get the machine to move.
The last 9 years I’ve been a paver man everyday but in layoffs, rain days, pre season I would help grade , do Digout stuff /sub grade/drains etc. commercial geothermal climate control loops &wells etc ….. this winter I started doing tree work and got to be crane operator today for the first time. . For the last 5 years (ever since the old man gave me my first master key set) I would finish with my paving work and go jump in the graders, dozers and go “practice” cutting grade trying to get familiar with different machines. but tomorrow I get to spend some time in a nice d9 and cleanup the lot and I came to RUclips to look for tips on the specific model I’ll be using. Grease points, fluids what to inspect etc. I’m always that guy asking those questions everywhere I’ve been and not one time has anyone ever thanked me for being overly inquisitive when I’m about to do something new and unfamiliar it’s usually some shitty response like this isn’t rocket science 😂 now I have spent time learning from some world class experts that are awesome teachers but no one’s ever said hey thanks for asking that and actually giving a shit and wanting to do things correctly efficiently and safely 🙏. I read your comment and immediately thought why couldn’t I have worked for this guy?😂.
Start flat stay flat. I’ve lived by the term and it’s always helped me. In all equipment
i was an operator for 40 years mostly fine grading stone . i used the deselarater pedal to control speed, much more control
Yeah, I think a lot do it for fine grading so to each his own.
Sane here, and if you take a big bite you give lift your foot more. Especially if your high up on a pile at the edge of a drop off, I always use it to control speed.
I agree on the older iron your only choice of speed control was the decelerater, but on the newer machines there's such a finer control that rpms up is better. Especially in the hydrostatic models
Agreed! In fine grading when precision is more important than power the pedal slows down the blade with the machine! Just my personal preference. And also about skimming the top with a empty blade. While fine grading there are set elevations or a FFE. You have to follow so theres not always the need to carry a full blade if the material isn't needed to finish the project! At that point your working yourself twice as hard! Dont be afraid to back drag either BUT ONLY when finishing! I hate to see a dozer make a pass blade down then slam into reverse with the blade on float back dragging with a foot or better from grade
The only time I use decelerator pedal is when I'm fine grading or changing direction
A good operator always shovels out their tracks after their shift ,especially in freezing Temps if soil is left in place the carrier rollers can freeze and the track chain will wear flat spots on the carrier rollers ,and a good operator will look over their machine ever day and look for missing or loose bolts ,and never abuses the equipment ,that equipment pays their wages.
I agree but this is on management to enforce in proper workflow orientation and training with inspection. If you cant show the cause of an issue down to an exact person or thing, then its just maintenance absorbed by the company.
This video isn't about operator responsibilities
I disagree a good operator gets out of the cab without a run down and jumps into his truck and heads straight to the bar to tell everyone how awesome he is
That is what 20-year-olds are for.
A good operator cleans their tracks so they don't have to do it later when the dirt gets rock hard
A good tip I got from an operator in the oil patch was to change your direction of travel when levelling. If you constantly go in the same direction you will never get the ground level. Going on an angle or directly across the previous pass makes for a more level surface without all the frustration.
Excellent tip. We cover that a little in our Bulldozer 201 video. Thanks!
We used to do that panning off in scrapers
Back blade helps
@@pepelapew2724 we would be called “back draggers” and run off a job for back blading, real guys doze moving forward.
dragging blade in a figure of eight
With regard to the 5th step of dropping your blade, I always with my backhoe move all the levers just a bit in every position to release any hydraulic pressure, even though the bucket or digging bucket are resting on the ground. This is done after I shut off the engine.
Good practice
@Jeff Harmon Totally agree. Also, a bucket or boom should never be raised in a precarious position since not only can the children bump the controls, but a line could burst, especially on an older machine like mine and could easily kill someone. I always assume a line could burst, so I never allow anyone to get into a position where the boom or bucket could hit them if a line bursts.
Yeah, something I learned from grandad and dad. "Unload the hydraulics so the implement does not unload on someone when a hose breaks. When do hoses break?"
Answer: "All the time" (They seem to)
Answer: "That is why you unload the hydraulics ALL THE TIME."
Wonderful video! The sound quality is top notch. Each subject is addressed concisely yet brief enough to not be boring. The different camera angles a great aid in understanding. This is by far one of the BEST instructional videos I have seen. Keep up the good work and thank you!
Greatly appreciate it! Thanks for the comment! Make sure to check out our other training videos under our LEARN playlist.
Spot on with this info! I don’t operate a dozer for a living, rather lease machines for a month at a time for dirt work, lane clearing, grubbing, etc. on the ranch. It took me a little while to learn all this by trial, error, and frustration.
thanks for the comment...yes, they can be tricky machines to learn.
The new equipment with cabs and electronics are awesome! It chaps me to see the cab interiors cluttered and filthy, which happens way more than it should. remember, the cab is supposed to keep you out of the grime!
I started out on an older dozer also, but I'm also really happy that the technology has advanced so much, because as you mention, most operators today would have no idea how to start a pony start machine or rethread a cable blade when you were a little slow to get out of the cut and snapped it in too.
Pisses me off when you have a operator who chews tobacco and spits in the cab'!
@@jamesbenedict7206 me too! That machine pays their wages, take some pride in it.
Agreed...thanks for the comment!
I’m a new operator and I bought a D6C and it has none of those amenities! I like that it is also so simple that I have to go old school learning to grade etc.
@@carysanders26 I have an old school d3c that I still have to use all of the old lessons, but I am learning to integrate newer technology, i.e., lasers and grade controls, but I also have to truly appreciate the up to date "creature comforts" that come with newer cab dozer that I have as well.......I'm getting long in the tooth, but I am still learning new things all the time, if you want to stay ahead in the earthworks world as it is today you HAVE to keep learning!!!!!!!!
Respect the power of the equipment. I learned early on that when using hydraulic equipment that regardless of the speed in which you could react, the machine could not stop or change motion instantaneously. And no computer control can change this, there is an amount of time the fluid takes to compress or decompress that is a physical property of the fluid, and the heavier the parts you are moving the more force and time it takes to change their motion. With hydraulic equipment their are huge forces involved, needed to move heavy equipment, and materials. Respect.
Liquids are not compressible, a compressible fluid is called a gas. Hydraulic fluid does not change density while the equipment operates, this is one of the main reasons it it used. Flow and pressure regulation would be what causes any lag in movement.
Keep them off ice ,and watch out for logs on steep inclines, especially going dow down over them. I've had a D10 turn into a sled on a log , more than once. Lol
Thanks for the comment!
Why more than once? I am also a slow learner lol. Two or three at least
I purchased a little case 310-f dozer a couple months ago.Going over it and correcting lots of issues from the past owners.One item is some one removed the foot brake pedal and linkages.Owner prior to me did not know why.I am planning on using the machine to assist my Kubota Bx23 s in removing trees and stumps and grading in a driveway.Also benching a spot on a 14 percent grade to put my new home.All if not most of my work will be in First and reverse.My suspicion is the person who removed the foot brake was to keep from riding it and wearing out the brake bands.I learned a lot from this video and I thank you for the help!
That is a very unusual modification, I would be cautious with that thing. Thanks for the comment!
ALWAYS put your implements on the ground before leaving a machine !! Nice video !
#5 Either way, it's really not ideal to park with anything hanging on hydraulics at all.
Agreed! Thanks for the comment!
I agree with that. In the industry we call it hanging on a 5 cent seal. Heavy steel coming down kills
I worked in an underground coal mine and if anyone left anything hanging on the hydraulics, they would be fired.
OSHA rules say all hydraulics must be at “rest” when leaving the machine.
@@TheDieselndust Though OSHA gets a bit of flak for some of their regulations, I can understand that one. I'm actually surprised there aren't more comments about it, since he didn't mention it in the video.
Great video! For you new guys those conditions in the video are rare. You'll likely start out in a pos with with zero traction or horsepower which means you'll need to operate a little different than in the video to compensate. Without horsepower traction is worthless, without traction horsepower is worthless. The big issue with new operators is not parking on a level spot so the fluids can be properly checked the next day. Be sure to lock out the transmission (set the parking brake) everytime you go to get out like for a piss. A 2 year experienced operator did that, he left the blade up and stood in front of the blade. The dozer ran over him. Wear YOUR SEATBELT AT ALL TIMES. A dozer cutting edge can catch a rock an it will throw you out of the seat.
Thanks for the tips!
That would make the advise "piss down wind, but not down hill from the tractor". I work on agricultural tractors and find the parking brakes horrible. I always try and leave an implement attached to stop it from rolling down hill.
Dozer operator here! I been working on
Cobblestone mixed with top soil and tree roots for a big project to do final grade for 3 weeks now and let me tell you nothing is more Frustrating. There is times I get off the dozer and just walk away for 15 min and come back to it.. I just subscribed to ur chanel love the videos
Thanks for the comment. First, good call on sometimes just taking a break! Often it's good to step out and even get a different perspective. I will say, that hopefully you got tree roots removed because it will be virtually impossible to get a finish grade if you are dealing with those.
Slow is smooth....smooth is fast. Going back to fix mistakes takes time and burns fuel.
Thanks for the comment!
100% incorrect, you are very fat and stupid
@@manlystyleunder50 lol smooth
@@Grandprixguffaw obviously you have acute vaginosis
Also the smoother you go forward the faster you can go backing up and when these big contractors like Ryan Central or Walsh pile the trucks on and you’re feeding a hoe or placing stone speed is your friend.
Greetings from Vancouver Island British Columbia Canada 🇨🇦
Great video for beginners
Built logging roads for 30 years
Loved it
Ran Dozer, front End loader, rock Drill and excavator
I build logging roads now, been doing it for 5 years. I like figuring out how to manage steep slopes for log trucks to go up. I run a D-8H and a 330B. What did you use?
Well, yep, put those attachments on the ground before exiting the machine. I couldn’t care less about the climbing on and off part, but safety would be my main reason. Nothing like a missing body part because of failed hydraulics. I’ve seen it on the job site, not a pretty picture. What not to do’s in this video are spot on, of course there are countless more. I learned on a D7f over 35 years ago. Glass and a heater in the snow? Ha ha. Joysticks? Not a chance. Try a cable operated with a straight shift and pony motor to start it. My dad learned on one of those in the 50s and 60s. My oh my how heavy equipment has changed. For the better no doubt. Just remember, safety is always first. That will never change.
Thanks for the comment. I would love to be able to try one of those old cable operated units...I'm quite certain it would be entertaining to watch...lol
ExtremeSandbox yeah, dad used to put me on his with him when I was in diapers, really. I ran one for fun years ago. No tilt, no swivel, just up and down. Some of course you could manually lock into a 45 degree angle to windrow. Amazed me they ran off a winch. Simple, but effective.
My dad also ran a cable dozer he also said u can’t turn while your blade is loaded. So the comment about turning brought back old memories
CHEERS!!! Well I started on "stomp and pull" but worked on cable rigs back from Greenland and even ran cable hoes back then!
Yep I agree on grounding anything raised as we had one of the worst ever incidents here in Arizona involving a parked push pull with an elevated can.
As you can guess.....an ENTIRE family of farm workers took a siesta/break under the can and it dropped on them (kid accidentally engaged lever)
Fatalities info available at OSHA circa 1990>
Anyway....this vid is ok I guess but I run skinny lifts regardless of machine type just as instinct to produce max efficiency with compaction for anybody rolling into my track
But these kids got no clue and they think 1 foot lifts are really cool....jeeezzz.....if it passes I get it-but I do it faster and skinnier and geo techs dont even check me.....yawwwnnn...blah blah.....
CHEERS!
I always tilt my trailer a the end of the day if I'm expecting rain, so that it drains off instead of sitting, but I always put blocks beneath and have it rest on them. Same when you need to work on it; *always* make sure it's resting on something.
I’m a farmer and have never operated a real tracked dozer, but I do have a dozer blade on a John Deere farm tractor. We contour farm with terraces and have to repair them after heavy rains break them. When I have to use my dozer blade on a wheeled tractor, it’s very important to remember my equipment’s limitations and not overload the blade with material. Small bites get the job done and too big of bites causes the wheels to spin and the
blade to gouge the ground unevenly and take more time in fixing.
Great advise about lowering the blade. Hydraulics can and do fail. People have been maimed or killed trusting hydraulic hoses that can burst at anytime!
Thanks for the comment!
One of my regrets in life was not working in this field. I owned a bobcat a small excavator and i did spend a little time on a finish dozer and full size excavator. I absolutely loved it. Trying to get grade with a small dozer ia definitely a lot harder than you might think. Those guys out there are really skilled
Thanks for the comment...never hold on to regrets...you can only change the future not the past!
Number 6 of what not to do:
Leaving the cab door open during a snow storm. LoL 😂
I read these comments and I am really honored by the wisdom of my fellow Americans..and to be starting my heavy equipment op training. I opted against OTR CDL last minute to do this. Great comments that will also help me use a dozer to prepare my slab on grade for a new house on land my gf decided to buy in the sticks after she had a dream that China dropped an EMP on us.
You are not really an operator until you have loaded trucks a Northwest 25D with a bent drum shaft.
Very good to know I'm in Heavy Equipment at Shasta college all these videos are definitely helpful thank you,
One thing I make new operators do Is park dozer on level ground with blade on ground. take notice where top blade is in relation to rest of the dozer, and tell them that's your straight line. And notice how your seat feels, that's your level .
Great advice. We do something like that in our Bulldozer 201 training video where I use a PVC pipe to show them how blade angle relates to their tracks. It seems pretty common sense, but would be shocked how new operators sometimes don't see it right away.
Some people have some people will never have it.
Different tactics for different operational needs. Not everyone is working on level ground. At my operation a level ground or dozer only exists when you exit a very large stockpile with a limited footprint. Workload accumulating 24/7 at massive rates where product turns to concrete if not blended and ripped constantly. Ideal slope is 10-15%, but the misconception that a dozer is a grooming piece of equipment leaves slopes upward to 25-30% due to leaving too much Earth behind and spreading it out. Different tactics for different applications of operation. There is no say all be all when dozing Earth. My best advice for safe operation of a dozer is, "keep the blade FULL at all times".
The guy that taught me to operate took me to a job site that was level within 1/10th over 11 acres. He had me blind folded and directed me via radio were to drive for 1 hr. He then sent to drive with no knowledge to a 2 in cut. That 2 in cut felt like I was rolling that 955. I know the feeling of level. Now when I'm in a basement and below the horizon I'll just stop for a second close my eyes an check level.
@@rolandmohler7785 wow you dont need to be blindfolded to feel if the ground is level. Yall must be doing some secret ninja dirt moves or something.
Excellent video some of old school operators had the opportunity to learn from older operators that didn't necessarily want to teach new guys but helped the when they made mistakes I learned from a fellow that ran an old d7g he would start out with a shovel full and end with a full blade at the end of his push some operator don't want to teach skills they have acquired
Thanks for the comment!
I've never been on a dozer, but a lot of what you're talking about also applies to grading with a skid steer.. Loading the tool (bucket in my case) is critical to getting consistency..
Also, I couldn't agree more about keeping the throttle up and staying OFF of the accelerator pedal.. Although I've had some old school operators suggest otherwise, I always want full power available to my tracks, tool and lift arms.. There's plenty of sensitivity in the joystick of my Cat 299d to track at whatever speed is required..
Good points, and you are correct. Can apply a lot of the same principles. Thanks for the comment!
Same thing applies to loading a front end loader bucket. Go into the pile slow and apply more power as you lift and curl the bucket back. You should get a full bucket every time without digging holes with to much power.
Never been on a dozer? Don't worry, listening to a turbo charged D342 engine all day with no hearing protection makes you dumb.
I operate a D9T with 19’wide 12’ tall blade,we build roads for 988 loaders pushing wood chips been doing it for 25yrs.12hr. Days ,operated every kind of crawler made,this new 9T is a dream to operate
Thanks for the comment!
I'd tow your butt around in my case 450. LOL
fishgrub spinners lol
It has 8” grawsers I doubt it,but it would be fun tryin
New backfiller here, some tips I’ve been told by some pro dozer guys are these
1. Get some dirt in front of that blade, it helps huge to avoid the washboard shit
2. Try to avoid back dragging, “real dozer operators don’t backdrag”
3. Always start on a flat surface
4. Once you get good enough to run in 2nd or 3rd, going faster can make it easier to push grade if you know your machine
5. Sand is the best to learn in because it’s the hardest material to keep smooth , one you master sand everything else is a cakewalk
been dozer operator since 1992 and my father before that since 1968 and we both backdrag to put that sheen on the finished product and I consider myself a professional operator
Why do you think there's the float on dozers?
Try doing parking lots for a asphalt company with 1% fall, it’s definitely tricky!
When you are pushing with a full blade and need to cut around a corner. You can use your blade to help steer the machine by digging the corner bit in on the side you are turning towards and still maintain a full blade.
That’s a good tip....never tried that. Thanks for sharing!
Blade steering. Absolutely needed in slot dozing. You never ever touch the clutches in a D11 unless you're empty and repositioning. You can make some pretty amazing turns while keeping all your material just by using the blade. Also if your blade is loaded on one end and it starts to pull you that way, you counter it with the blade to help remain straight. We do some amazing finishing work with large dozers and waste blades, all done through feel.
I do that a lot when I am clearing land and pushing a heavy load of trees/brush. Just pop the corner of the blade momentarily into the ground and pull it right back up. The steering correction will be made and I can keep the pile moving in front of the machine.
That’s the experienced way of doin it
That's where the Cat R's are nice. They don't brake one side to turn, they increase power to the other side.
Just want to say thank you for the video it's good to go back on when you end up going down wrong paths and it makes things alot more clear.
hey bud, pretty good basics in the video. i been operating 25yrs, about 10 of them in a dozer. everything from a komatsu d21 to a cat D8 with rippers. i'd have to say the one major thing i learned in that time about "new" operators is they forget themselves to quickly after ya teach them to much. so here's a little advice to all new operators, respect Anyone that will take the time to teach you how to better put food on your table and pay your bills. They have spent years accumulating and honing the knowledge they are telling you in the 5 minutes they talk to you. End of lesson.
Thanks for the comment!
You are not a boss, you are a leader. Lol. Thank you for your calm and easy to follow demeanor. You would be a breath of fresh air as far as a Forman goes. Your team is fortunate to have you around. God bless my man
I own a small landscaping company, and I have similar issues teaching new employees how to use the mowers. You'd THINK that would be pretty straight forward, but most of the recruits I get aren't property owners and many haven never even used a lawnmower before.
Yeah, I also think us operators that maybe have done it for awhile just assume others should pick it up quicker. It just takes time for anyone learning something new.
@@HeavyMetalLearning Of course, one has to be patient, but still keep an eye on them and correct when nessesary. The last thing you want is for Strata to contact you about one of the owners complaining.
Running a small farm with a tight budget, we tend to have to make equipment last and even on my small tractor, I always put my hydraulic equipment on the ground and after shut down, run through all the different motions with the controls to make sure there isn't any high pressure fluid left in the cylinders to cause leaks or blow seals. It's just the way I was taught and has always served me well, still use the same front end loader we bought in 1998 on the tractor we bought at the same time and haven't had to tear down the cylinders yet
I always drop the blade for safety reasons. Even with the engine turned off, the blade can be lowered. The same goes for excavators, backhoes, skip loaders. All your points on how not to run a crawler were spot on.
Actually , on some modern pieces of equipment , blade cannot be lowered unless engine is running . Да это так
@@BurbSK-bi2wh So you are going to assume a hose or a fitting will not give out while the blade, bucket ,or boom is off the ground when you walk away from he machine?
Yeah, good practice to have. Thanks for the comment!
Well done video, for new operators. Might add You can turn with a blade full of dirt "if you are carrying dirt " and not cutting, it does 2 movements when ever adjusting the blade ( when finishing with a dozer that is how it works, no grader to fix anything). I totally agree that one must have dirt in their blade while moving forward, Or there isn't any point. Key point for long pushing jobs is have a FULL FULL blade in rough large material jobs.
Thanks for the tip!
A common mistake i see is when stacking material for loading equipment, usually front end loader. Rookies will climb the material trying to stack higher causing it to get packed making the loader having to struggle to get full buckets. Stack it loosely, push into the pile and back up, thats it. Your loader operator will thank you later.
Good tip...thanks for sharing!
When I ran a 992 loader all the time I hated a dozer around me I'd tell them to take a nap or go somewhere else
Jeremy Grubb bbY
I always found watching other loader guys after fresh material has been dropped they tend to eat up the gravy buckets first, just being to aggressive at the beginning. Less is more get some good smooth slow buckets and try not to really get after a bucket . Later in the pile you will get better consistent buckets because you’ve allowed compaction for traction.
27 years in and he is spot on. Only one itty bitty thing he could have added on speed. The Dozer easily goes to fast for topcon/trimble to keep up. He'll shoot paint balls at me because I'm a decelerator abuser carrying over from Dozers that's not a variable speed (just 3 gears). Thumbs up to those Komatsu's...OMG you can see everything.
Want a good laugh? You can always spot the new guy crawling around with the blade in the air as high as it goes.
Back dragging King signing out,..salute!
Backdragging king...love it...lol. Thanks for the comment!
The GPS systems will easily keep up if you know how to tweak your valve tuning on Trimble or gains on Topcon. The newer integrated systems kind of tie your hands on this but the older add on systems it’s pretty simple.
@@knuttsackjones3094 good to know for an owner. Though I stick rule number 1 as a grunt. Liability on equipment I can't afford, I'm not touching anything, especially the old school GPS that came out in 2003-4 that you'll only find parts from a third party.
flippinrawks I know far more about Trimble than anything else. On that you can save your settings before you do any screwing around. Then if you want you just restore settings and it goes right back to what it was before you started pressing buttons. I’ve only ever seen one cb430 box in use. Like I said I don’t know much about topcon but valve speed is called gains. Keep your raise %25 higher than your lower and you’ll be able to run out stone piles in 3rd. I’ve done it with a 6R. If you have any questions let me know👍🏻
Some of those thing you talk about you can do with experience I've a operator for over 20+ years trust me it takes time . Great video
Thanks for the comment!
I wish I'd have seen this before I bought my dozer. I made every one of those mistakes early on. It took much longer to fix than it did to cause.
I just bought a older dresser TD8E to clear some land I have.
Never owning a dozer before
Seems like a common sense
Video.
And good advice.
Thanks
Thanks for the comment...good luck with the dozer! Safety first!
@@HeavyMetalLearning I'm a merchant mariner chief engineer
I live by saftey first!
Thanks
Just a heads up, small dressers have the weight farther forward which makes grading a lot harder, but the 1st thing he talked about should help with that.
@@danielkoenes1698 thank you, I kinda figured that out playing around getting a feel for it.
From the sound of it you have one of these?
I am really enjoying this little machine
As for the finish grading I intend on using a tractor and box blade.
It more or less gonna be pasture
But thank you very much.
@@captnmako I ran one for a couple years, but grading with a box is by far the way to go!
That little dresser you have is a great piece though treat her good! Lol
This guy is correct on all he said here. You need to slow down the dozer speed to keep up with the dozer controls. I like to start slow and as the dozer blade gets more material in front it will help stabilize the dozer, to keep the machine from galloping. Far to many operators back drag to much because they can not doze smoothly.
Thanks for the comment!
I’m a 40 year experienced operator and first gear is what I use when I want to do a good job your hydraulics cannot respond fast enough in high gears to keep it smooth
Dale Doty so true i run a blade and i wish I could finish in 3rd or 4th gear but it just ain't going to happen trick is make each pass count move material as little as possible. Cut to grade not fill to grade unless you're coming up in a controlled over X. Take care be safe everybody
Every operator is different only seat time is going to make em or break em
1000% agree....thanks for the comment!
Cletus
I have found you can get on the same machine from a different one and thay just feel different running them at least for me on backhoes. Same machine different feel.
Not picking nits...but first you gotta ..........want .......it pretty bad ,like anything worthwhile.
@@rp1645 That's the truth, and to add to that, a good operator should be fluid in going from one machine to the next. After the first few minutes or so, the operator should have most of the little nuances figured out and they should be able to start compensating for it, not going "well on my usual machine."
@@louisianagator95
On a job site we use to have 2 580-C and I ran them both and you could feel the difference in the front bucket controls. The feel of the machine as I drove around the site and you are right after a few, you got good with the machine you where on.
CASE use to do a excavator rodeo and had different control patterns on each machine you picked up bowling balls or cones on each station. It was really fun experience.
If you drove around all day with your foot off the deselarator on a real dozer d10 or d11 all u do is burn fuel and spin tracks deselarator is key to control
Interesting perspective...thanks for sharing!
@Kenneth Schauer for real. I operate a d6 haha. I'm used to being around 7's and 8's but I got on with a company that only has 6's I've never seen a 9, 10, or 11 in person.
Yep, spinning tracks is unnecessary wear and tear. Throttle down to prevent spinning and use the blade under load to control steer.
On old dozers without hydro drive, and especially straight shifts, you sometimes have to use the decelerator to do slow, precise work. Like right beside a wall or something where you've got to go slow and easy.
@@oceanwaves83 we have plenty of d10s and d11s around me. Civil constructors,lojac etc have them.
I always say and teach to never push with a straight blade with no angle. 6-12” of angle on your blade with offset all of the smallest adjustment bumps on the rollers of the tracks so the machine won’t rock forward and back when it rolls over the “speed bump”. This dramatically helps a consistent smooth grade without having to “start the pass over”.
Totally agree....thanks for sharing!
Not only does dismounting the machine with the blade off the ground make it hard on you or the next guy to get in the cab, it can result in a fine from OSHA if they happen to stop by your site and see unattended machinery with their ground engagement tools in an elevated position.
Thanks for the comment!
Important, glad to find this site.
Never run one in my life but it was an interesting video.
I have no idea what I'll do with this knowledge, but props to you for effective teaching.
Ya just never know when it will come in handy! Thanks for the comment!
I’ve had minimal experience with no training on old dozers for personal use no one got hurt no damage was done but it was ugly thinking of buying another dozer for personal use I think I gained a lot from this thank you but I know it’s still gonna be harder than it looks
Yes it is....thanks for the comment!
From a safety stand point, never trust hydraulics! Another good reason to lower all hydraulic equipment to rest. Controls can be hit or bump causing equipment to drop suddenly..
Agreed...thanks for the comment!
Gud advice..! Gess I've made the mistake of using the throttle to control speed.. you are spot on.. great video..
One thing you should always do is keep atleast 3 points of contact when climbing in or out of any tractor or machine.
Absolutely....great advice!
@@HeavyMetalLearning I am a retired truck driver. I am going to try and learn about more heavy equipment stuff.
Pro tip, make sure the grade is super compacted. Makes for a glass finish
the first key to operating a dozer is to understand how the mechanics of said machine to control grade. I believe the machine wants to maintain a grade, which is either a level grade or a sloped grade, i.e. building roadways. Therefore understand that in order to maintain a grade is to first set up the dozer to sit on the proper plane. if its level/flat set that first, and then go for distance. if building a road set the profile, up down, or cross slope. itsthen just a matter of setting the grade to the ground and with minimum movement of the blade, carry the grade. adjustments are then only needed as the dozer traverses different earth conditions. my adjustments are made only to compensate what is happening under the tracks. So its really by the seat of my pants. No horizon, trying to keep the blade at ground level.... keep material on the blade, let the dozer do its thing and it wants to cut the profile that you set. I like to keep my speed up, which I find that it smooths out the the dozer over the small ups/downs that the tracks encounters which in turn limits my adjustments to the blade, which by nature reduces the divets/speedbumps that are left behind.
Excellent info! Thanks for sharing!
I have had many many complain that the dozer just doesn't have any power and my first response is to ask if they cleaned the air filter and the look on their face is priceless. Then they go pull out the filter and you can see the dust pouring out as the filter is removed then when they start tapping it on something there ends up being literally a big pile of dust on the ground and a look of shame and humiliation on their face. Most do not realize if conditions are really dry then there is alot of dust in the air and sometimes that air filter needs cleaned multiple times throughout the day
Millions of kids out there never seen a man doing man shit. And trying to give some knowledge to us all. What a legend!
hmmmm....not sure how to respond to this one....but I do like "man shit"!
Too much backblading is what I see often. Dozers are meant to push. I like to leave material at the end of my push to keep road base level and give the trucks something to back up to. Another thing I do is leave the cut a few inches high the trim on last push through.
Thanks for the comment!
Trimming and spreading can actually be easier with a little more speed but the key is, is starting from a level area and understand the small blade adjustments required to continue tracking level when the conditions change at the blade. Ie, as depth of fill increases, the degree of material compaction under the tracks increases and without small and correctly anticipated blade adjustments the machine will start to pitch forwards and ramp down. A sudden correction will leave a marked difference in the work surface as well as requiring another 2 correctly gauged and anticipated blade adjustments. *You need to make the adjustment BEFORE you feel the machine pitch change. By the time the tracks roll over the work surface the blade has already covered that ground and it's too late.
Handy hint***
If your blade has the ability to roll side to side. A handy way to fix the up-down humps causing the machine to increasingly pitch forward and backwards, is to 'rock' the blade. As in, instead of trying to anticipate and correct blade movements to correct undulations in the work surface caused by machine pitching over previous undulations, (significanly advanced skills required for this, meaning you probably aren't reading this.)
you roll you blade from side to side with a small and relatively quick repeated motion until you feel the machine pitching reduce and/or cease. This takes a little practice and is not applicable in every circumstance but where it is and you implicate it quickly enough it is a very handy trick for correcting this situation.
Years ago I played a golf course in Sutherlin Oregon with a few fairways that resembled a washboard road. My dad said this was caused by an inexperienced dozer operator. Hard to forget the experience of driving a golf cart over those fairways and shaking your head at the mess left by the dozer.
This was a great summary of operator mistakes! Excellent content!
I never operated a dozer before. But if I ever have to, you can bet that I will be reading the operaters manual.
Good call!
Bad news, the operator Manual tells you about the machine function, it doesn't tell you how to operate
I'm an operator,it's always good going over the fundamentals. Every days a rehearsal. People FIRST, MACHINES second.
Love that...thanks!
I wish we had dirt that nice to work with here in Missouri.
Yeah...our Texas site is pretty rough to grade.
Missouri dirt and clay sucks. Ran dozer and cable plow down there for years. Hard to clean out of trucks and gets rock hard when it dries.
Many corner post holes dug by hand because of the rock and clay here in swmo
I like the new GPS dozers, set elevation, set blade, hold forward.
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. When comes to machinery that is a good thought to keep in mind.
1000% agree....thanks for the comment!
Slow is also easier on the undercarriage
And navel seals
True
It's the same with landscaping. Go fast with a lawn mower and you'll get it cut, but it won't look good, and the customer won't be happy.
Hi my name is Jim I'm a member of local 66 operating engineers that was a very good tutorial there and I like the way you go about it You're not demeaning or anything like that one of the things about turning with a load if you still have more material to cut off you can angle your blade into your turn in other words if you're trying to turn left angle your blade down and then it'll actually help assist you going around the turn if it's just a slight turn anyway thank you for what you're doing I really like your your messaging You're very respectful hey you have a good day and you be careful bye
Thanks for the comment!
My name is waldo, local 103,,, retired...
Hot tip #1, if you are advancing in boggy conditions and you feel the front of the machine start to sink, immediately de-accelerate (try not to apply the brake if possible.) enguage reverse and move off BEFORE raising the blade. It only has to be a very small distance before you start raising it to avoid accumulating material behind it and again start dragging the front lower but keep it where it is for the initial backwards movement then very slightly raise it minimally until most of the track rollers are comfortably back on firm ground. I see this mistake all the time and from some fairly experienced operators too.
Such a simple trick avoids many-most situations where the front end has sunk and becoming helplessly bogged is only one or two bad decisions/movements away.
If you do start to sink the front and decide you need to retreat and for some reason decides you should lift the blade before reversing, take note off how much worse it makes the already 'too risky too continue' situation.
(This is only if you've been considered and cautious enough to be aware of the risk and proceed in a manner that allows you to o stop the MOMENT the front drops enough to cause the machine to become bogged.)
Bad feeling when you're already thinking 'ohh, no.... Better try get out of here'
As you lift the blade, take note of just how much worse it makes the situation...
Hint: It is a LOT....
Now you are faced with the option of trying to reverse with the machine, now technically aready stuck but possibly still able to be saved with correct actions, or lowering the blade and intuitively thinking it will hamper the machines ability to reverse. (It's better to lower it but difficult to now correctly try help take the weight without digging into excessive or relatively solid ground which the blade now has to drag as well.... If youre first attempt at this point fails, don't persevere, before you completely disturbed the ground raise the machine up to let material fall in under the tracks and if the rear section of the tracks is still is decent material, manipulate the machine to lower the rear of the tracks gradually into the material enough so they grab the material and transfernit to under the front. You can lower the machine and attempt moving or you can repeat jacking the machine up and transfer material to the front again , all depends on the situation. And remember, They are heavy things, a little momentum can help alot. So when you feel the tracks do have purchase try capitalize on it.
DONT LIFT THE BLADE
So, you must be talking about when a lad lifts the blade and throws it in reverse simultaneously while in the soup. Then we end up with the tail of the tractor facing the sky much like the stern of the Titanic? The you make the tractor do pushups like Jack La Lane believing that will somehow do the situation good. Then you remember Jack La Lane do the breathing thing which actually does help you gain composure before the boss shows up. Been there, done that.
I was told lifting the blade in mud just helps the suction that is already pulling you down. you get STOPPED, back up before you settle while tilting the blade to neutral, and lift it as traction returns.
Tilt? Do you mean Roll or Pitch?
Good advice. On powershift Cats, operators even experienced ones will doze a heavy load in second gear. Why? It doesn't go any faster if you have a good load on and you just waste fuel and it makes the dozer much harder to handle. Drop them in low gear and let them work. I have 20 years experience and I always doze in low gear. Turning with a load on is hard on them. Always lower any raised equipment when you park no matter what it is.
Thanks for the comment!
Basic lessons that use to be taught. People do a one week course and get a certificate and think that’s it. Nothing beats time in the saddle and experienced operator watching on.
Man that thing is Sooooo nice. I've played on crawlers since being a kid. Even been on cable lift blade cats. Only one time being on a joystick dozer. It was worn out , but felt like a dream. The old man knew I had seen me on equipment and was in a bind to finish up several houses. He drove by seeing me gutting firewood and put me to work. It was like mowing grass with a zero turn mower compared to a plain old riding mower. I still have my old Mitsubishi with a manual gear transmission and steering clutches. After a couple hours of using it hard I'm whipped. But his little worn out D4 I covered 8 septic systems and graded all the yards and still felt good to drive home. His dozer looked like a DAWG compared to your plush piece of modern furniture. Like my old Mitsubishi is super tight as far as the pins n bushings are concerned. But it shakes , beats me like a Lifetime movie actress. I've never operated anything like what you were in , but you were talking in normal voice , and we could hear you fine. Nothing I've ever sat on is anything like that. Equipment has really been built to save operators from early deterioration. In college we had an old 2 stroke Detroit Alice Chalmers crawler that we used to push out the landfill on campus. (yes I went to RedNeckTech) We had a work study program. I always volunteered to do landfill , just to play on that antique. My ears would ring for a couple days after pushing with that thing.
One thing I noticed you were talking about was running the dozer or machine at FULL Throttle . As a mechanic and owner , I operate and tell people to operate the dozer or machine at a good 7/8 Throttle and not full throttle = WFO ! That's of course after doing your pre check and maintenance of the dozer or machine and let it warm up before operating and idle down before shutting it off . Why you wonder no doubt ? Because the dozer or machine will last or live longer !! Do you get in your car and run the engine full throttle or wide open ? NO , because you'll blow your engine . You get just about the same power to your drive system with no noticable difference in operation . But the dozer or machine will last longer in life !! Operator's never have to repair or replace anything on heavy equipment or dozer . You just operate it !!
I have run all kinds of equipment. I have my own dozer, trackhoe, farm tractor, motorcycle etc. No mater what it is always review the basics of operation and you have a good chance of staying out of trouble and doing a good job. Thanks for the video !!
Well said!
Been operating 34 years only made it to step 3 and you have been right on so far these young ones want to go balls to the wall slow down make one good pass and work off that but just slow down
one of the most important things ,maybe most important is to stay focused and cool minded,very often situations ,emotions ,some in vain hurry, or pressure from other people can obscure the mind of the operator and cause fatal mistakes ,for example when i get in the cab of the dozer or excavator i leave everything out of the cab ,if there is something that bothers me , i mean i am not thinking for this or that or some rubbish stuff at all ,just stay focused ,examine very carefully the area and is the ground stable ,than get up in the cab and enjoy the work with this mighty boy with shovel ,or other big vehicle and drive safely .the hurry gets us nowhere .
Totally agree...thanks for the comment!
ExtremeSandbox dt
I agree 100%. Also don't listen to every guy on the ground. YOU are in the machine, you can feel the grade, not them.
Ivan Divan best comment definately clear head and stopping before blade empties. I usually try to work in 50 to 100’ sections.
Wise words ! Unless you are in the rock truck, then the only thing to leave at the door is common sense lol
Set your blade down and ease into your cut. Once you start seeing the material flowering off your blade. You start adjusting your cut based on flow. That is a very tiny Komatsu 61px, the smallest I used was the 65 Komatsu. Then we use 8D Cats and 10 D Cats. I did have my hands on a D7 Electric for about 6 months under trial.
Interesting...thanks for sharing!
On bigger dozers, D9-D10 size, I'd disagree with the speed thing. From what I've seen training new guys, they put it in 1st and end up over thinking every move and washboarding. I tell them to put it in second once the get a feel for moving the machine and learn to blade in second. But large dozers are a whole different animal than one of those little lawn and garden dozers.
Interesting perspective...thanks for sharing!
Great video. One of the biggest mistakes I’ve been taught Dozer operators do is, back dragging the blade. The blade is designed to push, not pull. Would you agree or what’s your input on that.
If Cat or Komatsu etc, were intended for back-blading..They would have mounted a blade on the back of their dozers..😂😂
No1 rule ur not doing is always look behind you as u reverse, regardless its a open area. ALWAYS LOOK BEHIND
Yes, agree that we could do better at that. These machines have a great rear view camera so visibility is pretty good but I agree it is always a good practice to look over your shoulder as well.
Rearview mirror
Or camera. But I always look out of habit anyway!
Don't stand behind a operating piece of equipment is a rule on my job.. operators can't always see people on foot, its up to people on foot to stay clear of the equipment, works both ways.. yes operators should look but they are limited fov
I deal with a lot of new, young, and inexperienced operators, and I agree with point #1 100%. I see a lot of newer guys with only a few hours of experience on the machine start to get overconfident and up the speed well beyond what their skill level is capable of handling. "Washboarding" the cut/grade is the usual result. I have to pull these "operators" repeatedly and tell them to slow down, and explain how it will help them with the result. There is a bit of a macho thing with the newer operators, they think they need to show off to the super, or other operators on the site. Either that or they see a more-experienced operator make smooth cuts faster than them. It takes a lot of instruction to get these guys out of the "need for speed" habit, so hard for them to accept the fact that they just aren't at that level yet. The other thing I see on occasion is overloading cuts. Newer guys want to take 12" or better cuts on small dozers and end up having the same washboards. More experienced guys make 4-6" cut passes and have excellent results.
Excellent advice...thanks for sharing!
Point #1 is the same in pretty much any field. I work in landscaping, and I constantly need to tell people not to mow at high speed. If the mower is jumping around, you're not going to make a good cut. If the machine doesn't have time to chew it's food, you're not going to make a good cut.
its a testosterone issue with young guys. its across the board doesnt matter what industry it is..theres that drive for speed. . . and thats possibly where the old saying orriginated about the tortoise and the hare.
Here's a couple of rookie things. Twisting and turning too much and tearing up the road lol. And back-dragging literally everything lol.
Yeah...good point
I currently operate a d11t and most of the common mistakes I see is gouging and then trying to raise the blade too fast creating ups and downs. A lot of people I work with often times will backdrag everything because they can't cut a road properly so they end up with a smooth roller coaster road. Also we do a lot of slot dozing due to mining and moving a lot of overburden, if they have a slot they shave the top layer completely across as apposed to short large deep bites and then carrying the material off the pit. That dozer weights above 200000 lbs so every time you track across the fresh ripped ground your compacting it making it harder to get a blade full also your not using the full potential of the blade by using your slot side to keep material in front of your blade. There's a whole lot more I could go into but I don't have the time for it. Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing! Appreciate it!
U-blades can be a trick. Good "Okee" dozing (back-dragging) can be a art form for technical reasons though would I agree that most are not very good at it. They just put it in float and wear out undercarriage.
I’m learning to operate a wheel dozer on a mine site. I’ve had a few months of mainly pushing off tipheads but am getting used to floor clean ups and general work. Thanks for some of the tips. I can put them into practice tomorrow
Great to hear bulldozers take time to get the feel it comes to you after time
You have a much much more sophisticated dozer than I have, but I bought an old JD 450D just to do stuff on my own property. The guy I bought it from gave me a few tips (knowing I didn't know the first thing about dozing). But one thing he said was the blade was my only break and always (when stopped) make sure it was on the ground firmly enough it couldn't roll away even if you only hop off it for a second.
Within the first few days I had it, I was going up a narrow path that goes diagonally up a steep bank. I ran over a wet (maybe 4" diam.) dead tree that was covered with leaves so I didn't see it. I only slid sideways about a foot (toward the bank of course), but I thought it was the end for me and I thought "NOT ALREADY!!!"
side cutting piles and loose bank material where the material falls into the tracks or the side of the track is riding on a ridge of material rather than staying in a flat cut. I know it happens but it's hard on the undercarriage and I avoid doing it and fuss at anyone running my equipment. It's especially important on loaders where the bucket is barely wider than the tracks to begin with.
Good advice....thanks for sharing!
Thanks getting a small dozer for my farm and this was helpful
Yep, i dont operate equipment other than a farm tractor once in a blue moon shredding land. Do plan on getting a dozer in the future. interesting to watch..
Thanks for the comment!
I have been a mechanic for linder komatsu for 26 years my biggest is fire up cold equipment and run it full bore till end of day you dont always need the full tilt power
Thanks for the comment!
You have to use your decelerator on regular transmission dozers. This one is hydrostatic which does not require deceleration......also tell all new operators to look behind them constantly when backing up.
Yes; Backing up is also I never walk backwards anymore since ¼ million hours showed me that • in my era cabs and ROP were nearly unheard of;
Yes, excellent advice. Thanks for sharing!
Yep, every machine is different. Makes it hard to do a one fits all video.
I'm not experienced with dozers, but even on hydrostats, you cause excessive wear by starting and stopping too fast. They're not cheap to replace on any piece of equipment.
Trimble guided dozers are the thing nowadays. I operate a D6K2 and it feels godlike.
Yes, Komatsu makes an awesome Intelligent Machine Control which uses TopCon. Awesome!
we need some topcon and trimble videos. Most equipment is going GPS.
I've been in the dozer business all my life,it takes a few years to get fairly good,dozers are not intended to travel fast,a dozer didn't even need a3rd gear,you will become seasoned operator in about 20 years if you make it that long,don't forget maintenance, a new undercarriage is about 20 thousand,don't forget your truck and lowboy ,all I can say is try it you can always sell it
Thanks for the comment!
Ive graded plenty in 3rd gear on a d6. Day after day. Some people are just better than others. Spread 3 or 400 loads of dirt a day and you will use 3rd gear a lot.