I carry 4 cutting devices: 1. EezyCut Trilobite line cutter (440A steel) in a Flex Pouch inverted on my right shoulder strap above the D-ring. This is my backup line cutter. 2. SpyderCo Salt 2 serrated edge folding knife (titanium coated H2 steel) on an XDeep bolt snap off my right shoulder D-ring. This is for cutting through thick rope. 3. XShear trauma shears (titanium coated 420 steel) in a DiveRite sheath, tied inverted to the corrugated inflator hose on the left. For precision cutting, and cutting people out of their gear. 4. EezyCut Trilobite line cutter (440A steel) in a Harness Pouch, on my left waist strap between the buckle and D-ring. This is my main cutting device. The webbing sheath also functions to hold excess webbing on the waist strap. H2 steel is extremely corrosion resistant. It's unlikely to pick up any rust, even when not looked after. 440A is decently corrosion resistant, but will need to be rinsed in fresh water after a dive. 420 steel is barely corrosion resistant. The titanium coating helps protect the steel, but you really need to look after it. A thorough rinse in fresh water, and drying immediately after a dive will prolong the life of the steel. Note that fabric sheaths will hold salt water, and can corrode the steel even after you rinsed the blade. Make sure you dunk and soak your BCD in fresh water as well if they are semi-permanently attached to your harness, and let them dry out completely before putting the blades back in their sheaths for prolonged periods.
I like the old school dive knives, Shears are great, until you need to cut a large rope or something really big. Its easy to do small jobs with a big knife, but doing BIG jobs with a small knife is major chore or may not work at all.
...mmm maybe I have been very LUCKY since I started Scuba diving 43 years ago but I never ever needed to use my Wenoka 7 inch stainless steel dive knife . it has a blunt tip for prying - a sharp knife edge - a saw tooth top of the blade and a line cutting hook. the top of the handle also has a hammer head surface and the handle is bright yellow so it can easily be seen when needed ! I do remember that it was an expensive knife but it still works if its ever needed and I do strap it on for every dive .
For my personal set up I have a Spiderco Salt rescue knife, a bit on the expensive side but its the best dive knife I've used, for renting I've purchased a couple of Scuba choice foldable and I've pleasantly surprised they have held up really well
I like your series Mark and that you are on SCUBA Diver Magazine. I believe you will find that the "blunt" tip knives originally came out due to breaking pointed tips off while prying. The "safety" angle came many years later with new advertising, and less emphasis on the prying aspect of the blunt blades. I broke several tips off of my knives, "back in the day" and was glad the blunt blades came out. (My metal working skills did not serve me well when trying to reshape the broken blade tips with a flat blunt end...😑) Dive safe. 🙂
On some of my favorite local dive spots, it is illegal to carry an actual knife, so for these spots I only carry an Eezycut. On other places, I have both the Eezycut and another knife that is very similar in design to the DIR Zone Dive knife
I carry a aqualung small squeeze titanium and I love it. The only downside is that for some reason in the titanium version they don’t have a blunt tip option. I thought about grinding the tip off, but I‘m not sure if the knife is massive titanium or steel with a layer of titanium on the outside, in which case I‘d ruin it by grinding off that layer. Good or bad idea? #askmark
Best thing about the DIR Zone knife is the sheath. Throw out the knife before the blade falls out and lets you down. Buy a serrated tomato knife (like the Victorinox) and cut it down and round the edge with a file. Ezycut for fine lines.
What the hell is "ballistic titanium" supposed to be? I have no idea how "ballistic" would fit any material description related to diving (besides "ballistic nylon" for straps, maybe) anyways, unless there are wetsuits with body armor to protect against speargun attacks? 😁
10:07 that tree limb saw is crazy, However if you need to cut two inch thick braided rope under water this beast should make easier work of it. Obviously not for the standard recreational diver but under specific working diver needs that is a bad ass cutting tool. I have cut though a two inch braided rope clearing some trash under water before with an AquaLung squeeze blade and the titanium serrations actually accomplished the task but the short length of the knife sawing at thirty feet deep was a task and a half to say the lest. Obviously these knives are application specific but we appreciate you sharing what's available across a wide range of dive applications. Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
Paracord looks cool but personally its not practical it comes loose over time and can open gaps, and if its survival situation the last thing you need is for it to come loose and get in the way. But for a first time use it should be ok, but would you risk you life on it, its a cheap way for them to finish the knife
There are two types of pouches. The harness pouch, which is made from nylon and you can thread the webbing through perpendicularly. And the flex pouch, which is made from neoprene, and you can fold around webbing lengthwise. The harness pouch is by far the most popular, the most durable, and the most secure. Many people who purchase the flex pouch end up returning it because it wasn't what they expected. The flex pouch is meant to be placed on your shoulder strap. You wrap it around and close it on the back with Velcro. It's soft, doesn't rub on your wetsuit, and the pouch doesn't stick out to the side. It's easy to place and replace since you don't need to unthread the webbing. The harness pouch is meant to be placed on your waist strap. You simply thread the waist strap through the tough nylon loop, and it just hangs straight down.
Been looking for a video like this! Appreciate the quality here
I carry 4 cutting devices:
1. EezyCut Trilobite line cutter (440A steel) in a Flex Pouch inverted on my right shoulder strap above the D-ring. This is my backup line cutter.
2. SpyderCo Salt 2 serrated edge folding knife (titanium coated H2 steel) on an XDeep bolt snap off my right shoulder D-ring. This is for cutting through thick rope.
3. XShear trauma shears (titanium coated 420 steel) in a DiveRite sheath, tied inverted to the corrugated inflator hose on the left. For precision cutting, and cutting people out of their gear.
4. EezyCut Trilobite line cutter (440A steel) in a Harness Pouch, on my left waist strap between the buckle and D-ring. This is my main cutting device. The webbing sheath also functions to hold excess webbing on the waist strap.
H2 steel is extremely corrosion resistant. It's unlikely to pick up any rust, even when not looked after.
440A is decently corrosion resistant, but will need to be rinsed in fresh water after a dive.
420 steel is barely corrosion resistant. The titanium coating helps protect the steel, but you really need to look after it. A thorough rinse in fresh water, and drying immediately after a dive will prolong the life of the steel.
Note that fabric sheaths will hold salt water, and can corrode the steel even after you rinsed the blade. Make sure you dunk and soak your BCD in fresh water as well if they are semi-permanently attached to your harness, and let them dry out completely before putting the blades back in their sheaths for prolonged periods.
I like the old school dive knives, Shears are great, until you need to cut a large rope or something really big. Its easy to do small jobs with a big knife, but doing BIG jobs with a small knife is major chore or may not work at all.
...mmm maybe I have been very LUCKY since I started Scuba diving 43 years ago but I never ever needed to use my Wenoka 7 inch stainless steel dive knife . it has a blunt tip for prying - a sharp knife edge - a saw tooth top of the blade and a line cutting hook. the top of the handle also has a hammer head surface and the handle is bright yellow so it can easily be seen when needed ! I do remember that it was an expensive knife but it still works if its ever needed and I do strap it on for every dive .
For my personal set up I have a Spiderco Salt rescue knife, a bit on the expensive side but its the best dive knife I've used, for renting I've purchased a couple of Scuba choice foldable and I've pleasantly surprised they have held up really well
I like your series Mark and that you are on SCUBA Diver Magazine.
I believe you will find that the "blunt" tip knives originally came out due to breaking pointed tips off while prying. The "safety" angle came many years later with new advertising, and less emphasis on the prying aspect of the blunt blades. I broke several tips off of my knives, "back in the day" and was glad the blunt blades came out. (My metal working skills did not serve me well when trying to reshape the broken blade tips with a flat blunt end...😑)
Dive safe. 🙂
That makes a lot of sense. I have a couple de-pointed knives now after trying to use them as a prying tool...
The variation in design is unbelievable when it comes to dive knives.
I need a dive knife for spear fishing.
1. cutting rope / cordage / seaweed
2. Braining fish
3. Deterring sharks
What should I get?
On some of my favorite local dive spots, it is illegal to carry an actual knife, so for these spots I only carry an Eezycut. On other places, I have both the Eezycut and another knife that is very similar in design to the DIR Zone Dive knife
👍more good stuff 👍
I carry a aqualung small squeeze titanium and I love it. The only downside is that for some reason in the titanium version they don’t have a blunt tip option. I thought about grinding the tip off, but I‘m not sure if the knife is massive titanium or steel with a layer of titanium on the outside, in which case I‘d ruin it by grinding off that layer. Good or bad idea? #askmark
Best thing about the DIR Zone knife is the sheath. Throw out the knife before the blade falls out and lets you down. Buy a serrated tomato knife (like the Victorinox) and cut it down and round the edge with a file. Ezycut for fine lines.
What the hell is "ballistic titanium" supposed to be? I have no idea how "ballistic" would fit any material description related to diving (besides "ballistic nylon" for straps, maybe) anyways, unless there are wetsuits with body armor to protect against speargun attacks? 😁
10:07 that tree limb saw is crazy, However if you need to cut two inch thick braided rope under water this beast should make easier work of it. Obviously not for the standard recreational diver but under specific working diver needs that is a bad ass cutting tool. I have cut though a two inch braided rope clearing some trash under water before with an AquaLung squeeze blade and the titanium serrations actually accomplished the task but the short length of the knife sawing at thirty feet deep was a task and a half to say the lest. Obviously these knives are application specific but we appreciate you sharing what's available across a wide range of dive applications. Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
Paracord looks cool but personally its not practical it comes loose over time and can open gaps, and if its survival situation the last thing you need is for it to come loose and get in the way. But for a first time use it should be ok, but would you risk you life on it, its a cheap way for them to finish the knife
Dudes seriously explaining how a sheath works. ".... And there's no moving parts, just grab it and pull it out"
But why is the trilobytes vide segment called "Flex"? :D
There are two types of pouches.
The harness pouch, which is made from nylon and you can thread the webbing through perpendicularly.
And the flex pouch, which is made from neoprene, and you can fold around webbing lengthwise.
The harness pouch is by far the most popular, the most durable, and the most secure. Many people who purchase the flex pouch end up returning it because it wasn't what they expected.
The flex pouch is meant to be placed on your shoulder strap. You wrap it around and close it on the back with Velcro. It's soft, doesn't rub on your wetsuit, and the pouch doesn't stick out to the side. It's easy to place and replace since you don't need to unthread the webbing.
The harness pouch is meant to be placed on your waist strap. You simply thread the waist strap through the tough nylon loop, and it just hangs straight down.
After watching this I went to have a look how expensive that Scubapro Jawz thing is….wow 😂 Who on earth would buy that thing at that price?!