If you position the pins on the insulation board first and poke the pins in, then push the board and pins to the roof.. Then use something like a piece of wood to push the pin against the metal roof. It's a load easier. ;)
Easier than holding it up for ages, yes 😂 We did start utilizing that technique, but in all honestly, we just didn't have enough tall wood to keep them all up, so we had to pick which ones needed them the most. As for the actual stickpin adhesive, it seems the batch we got was defective. 😑
Hi, once again a suggestion for an issue you experienced in the past but hopefully useful to others. I have seen telescoping support poles utilised by other van builders to hold up ceiling insulation / cladding whilst adhesive goes off.
Oh man you must have got a batch of crappy stick pins . We had had to take a few of ours off and man they didn’t wanna come off . But we used a lot of stick pins as well . We also used 25mm insulation as well which made the beams perfect for the cladding . Hopefully yours don’t give you any problems if they do blame sam. You don’t need foam there up fine and the corners will move a little . Don’t forget to go over them with 50mm silver tape get it from screw fix and that stuffs propper sticky that will take alll the wobble and seal the vapor barrier . You don’t need reflective on the roof remember cos the insulation already had it
Just our luck to get the crappy stick pins 😂 The foil tape is ready to go, just adding a few things to the ceiling beforehand. Since we are going from Arctic to Sahara temperatures we though 50mm insulation would be wise, though it would have been soooo much easier with 25mm. Oh, it's always Sam's fault 😂 - I mean it's not like I cut a notch in our headliner shelf on the wrong side - while he was 'distracted' making dinner 👼😈... not at all.
PIR board looks like trouble to install because it is flat and is being affixed to a radius surface. Maybe if you had used a thinner board it would have had just the right amount of flex to conform to the surface of the ceiling. May have been worth the reduced R value. Still you are doing a great job with all these annoying frustrations. Good video and looking forward to next one.
We were quite happy with the way it curved to the roof (with the chiselling, of course), our problem was just finding an efficient way of sticking them which kept them up there, especially when the roof was boiling hot. We were just trying to use what we had leftover instead of buying yet more stuff, as we have plenty of stuff to use. 🙂 And personally losing the R-value for us is not ideal, as we are going arctic (one day).
i did mine like yours, once that part is dome I then put wood bonded then wood of 5mm ply board all with the auto screws to metal then put up adisiver tiles well to tiles it looks like wood flooring but on the roof LOL
Remember, packing it in too tightly will cause that annoying squeaking sound like at time marker 12:20. Better to have it loose and fill in the gaps with recycled plastic or closed cell spray foam. I guess it depends if you like squeaking whilst driving.
Precisely! We've had it in a few weeks, no squeaking but you're right that if they do losen, they will start to squeak, so as we said, we might end up filling the gaps with spray foam to jam them in even more because we don't have enough room to stuff in recycled plastic insulation like on the walls. 😜
If you run a circular saw through a board, but set to half of the depth of the board, then it will bend a bit... (you mount it with the cuts facing upwards). It's a great way to make the board fit the contour of the roof and it doesn't break the foil seal of the insulation. I did this with the roofing battens that I mounted on the ribs too - two cuts across it and it bends to match the contour of the ceiling. Great guide to doing this here! ruclips.net/video/-aeanzxq_WE/видео.html
Hi guys. I watched your video on wall insulation and found the explanation of the air gap very useful and easy to understand. However, is there a reason people don’t do this on the roof? Or is it just so you are not loosing standing space? Could the insulation not come part way down each section, instead of inline with the metal framework? Or is loosing the insulation thickness not worth it? Thank you.
Actually we recommend doing it on the ceiling, it's probably more important to do it on the roof than on the walls since the sun hits the roof directly most of the time and also heat rises. So there's 2 ways you can do it, 1 is to only use 25mm PIR board insulation and then the cladding gets attached directly to the metal ribs. That gives the airgap without loosing any extra height, but you have the insulation effeciency on the ceiling, and if you're going extreme clients (very hot/cold) this is probably not the best idea. The other way I'd what we are doing, we've put 50mm PIR board in the gaps and we've put 18mm plywood framing ontop of each metal rib on the roof and will attach the ceiling cladding to those. That gives us an airgap but we do loose 2cm of headroom (but we are short so doesn't matter to us 🤣). Still plenty of headroom even with the floor raised. Depends on your plans and how tall you are 😉
Do you remember how many 2400x1200mm board you needed for the roof, the floor and the walls? Hoping to get 50mm for roof and walls and 25mm for floor -just not sure how much to order! Thanks :)
We definitely removed the paper on the stick pins. We had troubles with the batch of stick pins we ordered - no matter what we did the pins original adhesive would unstick. So at the end, we did put our own adhesive on the stick pins (instead of buying new ones).
Hey again guys, Why is it a problem to stick the pins to the sound deadening? I'm asking because i already covered big% of the all metal sections and there is no space left to stick the pins to the bare metal.
In general, it's best to reduce the number of things you've stuck in sequence, so sticking stick pins on sound deadening on the van would basically give more opportunities for things to come "loose". Having said so, the sound deadening is pretty hard to remove so attaching stickpins (with good quality adhesive on them) that just support the weight of the PIR board will probably be fine. But as best practise, it would be better to stick the stick pins to the metal roof since in that case, it would only be the stick pins that could fail, not the sound deadening. Hope that made sense and didn't confuse you more, but if you have to remove a lot of the sound deadening, I would just try and stick them on top of the sound deadening - maybe do a test piece and see how it sticks.
@@FreedomStrider Ще пиша на български, че ми е доста по удобно, стига да нямате нищо против. А дали метала няма да се нагрява повече отколкото саунддеденинга и т.е. да нагрява лепилото на пиновете и те да са по склонни на отлепяне ?
You can write in Bulgarian, I can understand - I may need to answer in English for technical detail. 😊 We don't have a very good experience with stick pins. I believe they should stick better on warmer surfaces and be able to withstand the heat from the hot roof and other people have successfully used them. The sound deadening can act as an insulator but I don't know how the stick pin adhesive will react to the sound deadening surface.
I was feeling your pain.... I’ve had very good results with Adiseal Hi-Grab sealant/adhesive adiseal.com/products/hi-grab/ Reasonable price, flexible when cured and incredibly strong adhesion. I’ve tested it on a range of materials, wood, plastic, metal, foil, applied to painted metal and it’s excellent. I’m intending to use it as my go to adhesive/sealant on my van build. A spot at each corner and in the middle would be sufficient to hold the PIR I reckon. Either that or high temp contact adhesive. Enjoying your vlog immensely and the way you experiment and try novel problem solving solutions.
Thanks, glad you're enjoying the vlogs 😊 We've heard of Adiseal before, it looks a good product to use. We didn't really want to just stick it all with sealant since sealant is a bit messy (although, given how much trouble we've had with the stick pins, in hindsight it would have been a lot faster). We have about 20 tubes of Sikaflex Pro 3 (mistake by the vendor, we only paid for 1, got a whole box and the vendor said to keep them) so that's our go-to right now - although it's not an instant grab, takes 3 days to dry.😂
You should of read the instructions for the stick pins, it clearly says to install at the least 24 hrs before you hang insulation on them There are stick pins that don’t have a sticky pad but have holes in them so you can use a glue gun and it Oozes through the holes and clings onto the stick pin
Well, technically, this is our first batch of stickpins, so we can confirm that these stickpins are garbage - as for any other stickpin out there, I can't say, I don't want to discriminate 😂
If you position the pins on the insulation board first and poke the pins in, then push the board and pins to the roof.. Then use something like a piece of wood to push the pin against the metal roof. It's a load easier. ;)
Easier than holding it up for ages, yes 😂 We did start utilizing that technique, but in all honestly, we just didn't have enough tall wood to keep them all up, so we had to pick which ones needed them the most. As for the actual stickpin adhesive, it seems the batch we got was defective. 😑
Hi, once again a suggestion for an issue you experienced in the past but hopefully useful to others. I have seen telescoping support poles utilised by other van builders to hold up ceiling insulation / cladding whilst adhesive goes off.
Good tip, we didn't have any to hand but yes we've seen them before 😊
Oh man you must have got a batch of crappy stick pins . We had had to take a few of ours off and man they didn’t wanna come off . But we used a lot of stick pins as well . We also used 25mm insulation as well which made the beams perfect for the cladding . Hopefully yours don’t give you any problems if they do blame sam. You don’t need foam there up fine and the corners will move a little . Don’t forget to go over them with 50mm silver tape get it from screw fix and that stuffs propper sticky that will take alll the wobble and seal the vapor barrier . You don’t need reflective on the roof remember cos the insulation already had it
Just our luck to get the crappy stick pins 😂 The foil tape is ready to go, just adding a few things to the ceiling beforehand. Since we are going from Arctic to Sahara temperatures we though 50mm insulation would be wise, though it would have been soooo much easier with 25mm.
Oh, it's always Sam's fault 😂 - I mean it's not like I cut a notch in our headliner shelf on the wrong side - while he was 'distracted' making dinner 👼😈... not at all.
Hi guys are used extra strong double sided carpet tape industrial
That works too, excellent idea, so it had held over time?
PIR board looks like trouble to install because it is flat and is being affixed to a radius surface. Maybe if you had used a thinner board it would have had just the right amount of flex to conform to the surface of the ceiling. May have been worth the reduced R value. Still you are doing a great job with all these annoying frustrations. Good video and looking forward to next one.
We were quite happy with the way it curved to the roof (with the chiselling, of course), our problem was just finding an efficient way of sticking them which kept them up there, especially when the roof was boiling hot. We were just trying to use what we had leftover instead of buying yet more stuff, as we have plenty of stuff to use. 🙂 And personally losing the R-value for us is not ideal, as we are going arctic (one day).
@@FreedomStrider thanks for your response. Going Artic.................brave!
i did mine like yours, once that part is dome I then put wood bonded then wood of 5mm ply board all with the auto screws to metal then put up adisiver tiles well to tiles it looks like wood flooring but on the roof LOL
Sounds cool, glad it worked out 👍
Remember, packing it in too tightly will cause that annoying squeaking sound like at time marker 12:20. Better to have it loose and fill in the gaps with recycled plastic or closed cell spray foam. I guess it depends if you like squeaking whilst driving.
Precisely! We've had it in a few weeks, no squeaking but you're right that if they do losen, they will start to squeak, so as we said, we might end up filling the gaps with spray foam to jam them in even more because we don't have enough room to stuff in recycled plastic insulation like on the walls. 😜
If you run a circular saw through a board, but set to half of the depth of the board, then it will bend a bit... (you mount it with the cuts facing upwards). It's a great way to make the board fit the contour of the roof and it doesn't break the foil seal of the insulation. I did this with the roofing battens that I mounted on the ribs too - two cuts across it and it bends to match the contour of the ceiling. Great guide to doing this here! ruclips.net/video/-aeanzxq_WE/видео.html
Good tip. 🙂 We'll try it next chance we get.
Yay no PIR for me, mainly cause I can't afford it but secondary reason is it always looks like hell to use.
Rigid foam in a curvy van is bound to have its challenges 😂
Hi guys. I watched your video on wall insulation and found the explanation of the air gap very useful and easy to understand. However, is there a reason people don’t do this on the roof? Or is it just so you are not loosing standing space? Could the insulation not come part way down each section, instead of inline with the metal framework? Or is loosing the insulation thickness not worth it? Thank you.
Actually we recommend doing it on the ceiling, it's probably more important to do it on the roof than on the walls since the sun hits the roof directly most of the time and also heat rises.
So there's 2 ways you can do it, 1 is to only use 25mm PIR board insulation and then the cladding gets attached directly to the metal ribs. That gives the airgap without loosing any extra height, but you have the insulation effeciency on the ceiling, and if you're going extreme clients (very hot/cold) this is probably not the best idea. The other way I'd what we are doing, we've put 50mm PIR board in the gaps and we've put 18mm plywood framing ontop of each metal rib on the roof and will attach the ceiling cladding to those. That gives us an airgap but we do loose 2cm of headroom (but we are short so doesn't matter to us 🤣). Still plenty of headroom even with the floor raised.
Depends on your plans and how tall you are 😉
Thank you kindly for clarifying! Height is an issue but we will make it work :) Thanks for sharing your expertise and great videos.
Do you remember how many 2400x1200mm board you needed for the roof, the floor and the walls? Hoping to get 50mm for roof and walls and 25mm for floor -just not sure how much to order! Thanks :)
We ordered 4x50mm boards (for the walls and roof) and 3x25mm boards for the floor 🙂
@@FreedomStrider Gems! Thanks so much! Hope you are enjoying your time in Europe! :D
It looks like you didn't peel off the stick pin paper to reveal the sticky surface, but added glue on top of the paper?
We definitely removed the paper on the stick pins. We had troubles with the batch of stick pins we ordered - no matter what we did the pins original adhesive would unstick. So at the end, we did put our own adhesive on the stick pins (instead of buying new ones).
Hey again guys,
Why is it a problem to stick the pins to the sound deadening? I'm asking because i already covered big% of the all metal sections and there is no space left to stick the pins to the bare metal.
In general, it's best to reduce the number of things you've stuck in sequence, so sticking stick pins on sound deadening on the van would basically give more opportunities for things to come "loose". Having said so, the sound deadening is pretty hard to remove so attaching stickpins (with good quality adhesive on them) that just support the weight of the PIR board will probably be fine. But as best practise, it would be better to stick the stick pins to the metal roof since in that case, it would only be the stick pins that could fail, not the sound deadening.
Hope that made sense and didn't confuse you more, but if you have to remove a lot of the sound deadening, I would just try and stick them on top of the sound deadening - maybe do a test piece and see how it sticks.
@@FreedomStrider Ще пиша на български, че ми е доста по удобно, стига да нямате нищо против. А дали метала няма да се нагрява повече отколкото саунддеденинга и т.е. да нагрява лепилото на пиновете и те да са по склонни на отлепяне ?
You can write in Bulgarian, I can understand - I may need to answer in English for technical detail. 😊
We don't have a very good experience with stick pins. I believe they should stick better on warmer surfaces and be able to withstand the heat from the hot roof and other people have successfully used them. The sound deadening can act as an insulator but I don't know how the stick pin adhesive will react to the sound deadening surface.
I was feeling your pain.... I’ve had very good results with Adiseal Hi-Grab sealant/adhesive adiseal.com/products/hi-grab/
Reasonable price, flexible when cured and incredibly strong adhesion. I’ve tested it on a range of materials, wood, plastic, metal, foil, applied to painted metal and it’s excellent. I’m intending to use it as my go to adhesive/sealant on my van build. A spot at each corner and in the middle would be sufficient to hold the PIR I reckon. Either that or high temp contact adhesive. Enjoying your vlog immensely and the way you experiment and try novel problem solving solutions.
Thanks, glad you're enjoying the vlogs 😊
We've heard of Adiseal before, it looks a good product to use. We didn't really want to just stick it all with sealant since sealant is a bit messy (although, given how much trouble we've had with the stick pins, in hindsight it would have been a lot faster).
We have about 20 tubes of Sikaflex Pro 3 (mistake by the vendor, we only paid for 1, got a whole box and the vendor said to keep them) so that's our go-to right now - although it's not an instant grab, takes 3 days to dry.😂
You should of read the instructions for the stick pins, it clearly says to install at the least 24 hrs before you hang insulation on them
There are stick pins that don’t have a sticky pad but have holes in them so you can use a glue gun and it Oozes through the holes and clings onto the stick pin
I would have gladly read the instructions had they come with any.
Stick pins are garbage!
They are all bad, Greg lied to us all!!
Well, technically, this is our first batch of stickpins, so we can confirm that these stickpins are garbage - as for any other stickpin out there, I can't say, I don't want to discriminate 😂