Please follow my advise to perform this procedure better than in this video. After sucking old oil out remove the return line from the pump- one nearest to rear of car. Fill the oil tank to normal level. With an assistant start the engine and cycle the roof up and down whilst catching the old fluid from the return line into an empty container and keeping the oil tank topped up. Once you have all old fluid out of the return line and the colour of return fluid is clean stop. Fit return line back onto pump and make sure oil tank level is between minimum and maximum. Using this procedure ensures you arent mixing any old fluid from the lines with new fluid in your tank.
I am looking to pick up a 92 r129 as my next project. The seats need new leather but the seller says it leaks gas around the the injectors. If you were evaluating what other things would you be looking for? How do i review the hydraulic system to make sure the roll bar and top work to identify leaks? Thanks again for the videos
On your version of the pump, which line is the return line out of the two? I would like to disconnect the return line so that I can get out all of the older fluid in the system when replacing the tank with the new fluid. Many thanks for your videos
Has anyone tried putting Seafoam Trans-Tune in one of these roof systems? It works great to help condition and swell seals on hydraulic systems, wasn't sure if anyone tried it on an SL.
Can i use Mercedes Benz Multi-grade Oil for my Mercedes Benz convertible top, although what was written on it are : for power steering clutch and gear shift controls. I tried looking for the exact type you used in this illustration but couldn’t find it. Thanks
91 r129 no leaks bought 8months ago (roll bar works medeum speed not fast not slow) top wants to work seems like it doenst have enough pressure to unlatch should i try changing the fluid ...?
Been looking to the hydraulic 2003 clk 320 unit to add fluid Have not seen the unit yetPulled the wheel out, nothing side panels nothing What you advise ?
Wrong fluid. Dont use the multi grade. Use the Mercedes hydraulic flyid p/n 0009899103. The additives in the multigrade fluid will immerse water and make the rest of the system fail sooner. Hydraulic ZH-M fluid makes the water drop to the bottom of the reservoir.
if your 2000 is a 600sl the seats from a 1995 will fit...the 1995 320 and 500sl seats will only swap up until 1998. the 600sl retained the old style seats for 4 more years
My hard top wont latch in the back even when I try to do it manually with the speciality tool from Mercedes on the red tabs in the trunk. What should I try if changing this fluid doesnt work?
that's an odd one . Never seen one not latch manually . Possibly something jammed in the mechanism ? Have you tried to see if the rear is already in the down position and unlatching the locks first ?
Also check that the latch pins on the bottom of the hardtop are aligned correctly on the holes . You can loosen them and adjust . If they are too far out of adjustment the manual latch may not grab them properly .. Just checked my manual and that seems to be the only other reason they wouldn't be able to lock
I put in new fluid and the reservoir was practically empty. The roll bar works amazingly. The hard top will lock in the back now but it wont sit down all the way. When I try to lock the hard top into place, it will but the roll bar will move up by half an inch then a thunk can be heard after it stops. The seals in the front are busted since whenever I try to use the roll bar or the hardtop controls it will leak. I'm gonna try to get help lifting the hardtop out of place since I don't feel comfortable doing it alone and get a direct look at the pins.
@@flawandalason you need to fix the front cylinder leaks first , The system relies on each area retaining its pressure or the other areas will gain and lose pressure in weird ways ..IE the roll bar moving and clunking .
1.25liters in the whole syatem, but he should flush it, when you flush it you willl use about 2 liters. You can see how it´s done here ruclips.net/video/SAC1v1D-oSI/видео.html
Hi there, I've got a problem with my `95 A124 Mercedes, after replacing seals in the cylinders of the main hood lifters, the roof does not open. I had to let it replace, coz the left one was leaking badly (my mechanic replaced both sides just to be sure). The one that (un)locks the roof was replaced last year (received new seals too). Hydraulic fluid was topped up to maximum level (original one from MB). Now when I try to open the roof, the rear lock opens but the roof part where the glass window is lifts very very slow, and if finally rises so the front part can rise nothing happens. The button to open the roof blinks (I think even right from the moment on i pull it to open). Did you have such situation, do you know what the reason might be? Te engine runs when I operate the roof and I'm in P mode of course.
a few things could be the culprit . start with the easiest .. window sync. Unhook negative battery terminal (key out of ignition while battery unhooking and rehooking it up ) after 10-15 seconds re attach the neg battery cable. start the car and push the window switches one at a time.. up, and hold 5 seconds after it reaches the top . lower window and hold 5 seconds once all the way down . Do this for all the window switches. The roof needs to verify the windows are down to allow the roof to open past 1/2 way. It verifies by counting the number of times the window motor has turned from full up to full down . if the roof still won't open . check the microswitch on the hard tonneau cover (they need to confirm the tonneau is open ) on the right tonneau hinge . The other microswitch on the top bow extension could also be not operating.
Hi mate, thank you for your reply, and sorry for my late. not easy finding a minute time when small kids at home. I let my mechanic change the seals in two side cylinders and from my observation nothing leaks now. I just topped up the hydraulic fluid and operated the roof while the fluid container was open. I thought it was a good way to bleed the mechanism. I guess I was successful as after that I had to top up again and the mechanism worked a bit faster. The lid that covers the roof when it's closed didn't popped up unfortunately and I think the cylinder that opens and closes it got stacked. The window opening/closing mechanism before /after opening / closing the roof never worked, but the right rear window can't open, since the slide mechanism is broken since a couple of months now. Perhaps this might be the reason why the lid wouldn't open to hide the roof. Just my assumption. Do you know by any chance how to bleed the mechanism? I think it might be full of air, as the fluid leaked previously. I also unhooked the battery as you suggested and tried to operate the windows as you told me, unfortunatly it didn't helped. Anyways if something pops up to your mind what the reason can be or where to look for a fault please let me know, my eMail is bartosz.chrzanowski@gmail.com I appreciate your support.
No .. absolutely not lol.. brake fluid will eat the seals in your hydraulic roof or shock absorber lines. brake fluid is glycol based and hydraulic oil is mineral oil based
@@fupabox is there any other alternative instead of Mercedes Benz hydraulic fluid to replace for convertable fluid, cos i couldn*t find the Mercedes Benz fluid product. Thanks
sunvisors are gone, the drivers side ext mirror is good lubed and tested.. I have 4 16x8s with good tires on the car which you can have real cheap as long as you can swap me a set of rims and tires (any condition ..just needs to roll when wrecking yard removes the car from driveway)
***** just want to say thanks for all u do reguarding mercedes diy, u make it almost affortable to own. (LOL).I have a 1992 300sl non bose or optic factory sound setup.Would u happen to know the speaker colors for the doors and dash tweeters.The factory radio really blows with the top down.Iam looking to replace the radio and by pass the the factory amps asap....thanks again for all you do.
Hydraulic top... Man.. Do I really want to get into that mess. Why does Mercedes not believe in electronics? I'm evil I disconnected my vacuum actuated door locks and headrests
The hydraulics are pretty reliable...the early ones are all analogue and run by relays and microswitches..fairly simple stuff....did the disconnected headrests and door locks make a difference?
Please follow my advise to perform this procedure better than in this video. After sucking old oil out remove the return line from the pump- one nearest to rear of car. Fill the oil tank to normal level. With an assistant start the engine and cycle the roof up and down whilst catching the old fluid from the return line into an empty container and keeping the oil tank topped up. Once you have all old fluid out of the return line and the colour of return fluid is clean stop. Fit return line back onto pump and make sure oil tank level is between minimum and maximum. Using this procedure ensures you arent mixing any old fluid from the lines with new fluid in your tank.
Thank you from those of us still working on these great cars!
Mr W! four years later now and my right rear cylinder is now leaking do you have any videos on replacing?
I am looking to pick up a 92 r129 as my next project. The seats need new leather but the seller says it leaks gas around the the injectors. If you were evaluating what other things would you be looking for? How do i review the hydraulic system to make sure the roll bar and top work to identify leaks? Thanks again for the videos
Good video, Lowes and WalMart sells a hand pump that works great for this purpose
How do you install the hydraulic fluid when there’s no cap On the reservoir
Good thank for experience
Very welcome
On your version of the pump, which line is the return line out of the two? I would like to disconnect the return line so that I can get out all of the older fluid in the system when replacing the tank with the new fluid.
Many thanks for your videos
I believe the one on the cap is the return .the other two are flow direction
sl r 129 🔧👍 ein danke schön, und ein lieben gruß' an fupapox 💢🤗💢
Has anyone tried putting Seafoam Trans-Tune in one of these roof systems? It works great to help condition and swell seals on hydraulic systems, wasn't sure if anyone tried it on an SL.
very good question .
Old video but has anyone tried this?
Can i use Mercedes Benz Multi-grade Oil for my Mercedes Benz convertible top, although what was written on it are : for power steering clutch and gear shift controls. I tried looking for the exact type you used in this illustration but couldn’t find it. Thanks
The dealer should carry it .. If it is the Benz multi grade for clutch and power steering it should be good .
91 r129 no leaks bought 8months ago (roll bar works medeum speed not fast not slow) top wants to work seems like it doenst have enough pressure to unlatch should i try changing the fluid ...?
Hmm . Yeah you could try that . Newer hydraulic fluid would hold pressure better and lubricate better .
Thanks for sharing this 👍
Thank you.....very helpful
Why didn't you replace the filter too?
do you know where the pump is for the sl500?
Has the fluid color changed? Or maybe it differs depending on model years? I purchased the fluid and it was clear, not opaque green.
The Febi branded fluid is sometimes a different color than the Mercedes fluid... both are compatible
is there a part number for the fluid or just give the vin or year and model to the parts dept
the dealer will have a newer version of the fluid that will be compatible if you give them the year of your car
Hi , do you know how to replace the hidraulic fluid of the convertible pump in a slk 1998? doesn´t have a cover...
+paulo pombo workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/slk_230_(170.447)/l4-2.3l_sc_(111.973)/body_and_frame/roof_and_associated_components/vario_roof_(retractable_hard_top)_-_convertible_top/convertible_top_hydraulic_fluid/component_information/service_and_repair/ar77.37-p-3501g_check_correct_oil_level_of_hydraulic_unit/page_8068/
I have sl55 still can’t see where to add Hydraulic fluid for the roof. Mine does not have a cap either?
thanks for the advice
Been looking to the hydraulic 2003 clk 320 unit to add fluid Have not seen the unit yetPulled the wheel out, nothing side panels nothing What you advise ?
here's the photo removal process and location www.tophydraulicsinc.com/w209pumpremoval.pdf
Mercedes benz clk230 idralicar top
Wrong fluid. Dont use the multi grade. Use the Mercedes hydraulic flyid p/n 0009899103. The additives in the multigrade fluid will immerse water and make the rest of the system fail sooner. Hydraulic ZH-M fluid makes the water drop to the bottom of the reservoir.
Do you know a lot about the SL 500? Do you think you could swap seats from a 1995 to a 2000????
if your 2000 is a 600sl the seats from a 1995 will fit...the 1995 320 and 500sl seats will only swap up until 1998. the 600sl retained the old style seats for 4 more years
My hard top wont latch in the back even when I try to do it manually with the speciality tool from Mercedes on the red tabs in the trunk. What should I try if changing this fluid doesnt work?
that's an odd one . Never seen one not latch manually . Possibly something jammed in the mechanism ? Have you tried to see if the rear is already in the down position and unlatching the locks first ?
Also check that the latch pins on the bottom of the hardtop are aligned correctly on the holes . You can loosen them and adjust . If they are too far out of adjustment the manual latch may not grab them properly .. Just checked my manual and that seems to be the only other reason they wouldn't be able to lock
I put in new fluid and the reservoir was practically empty. The roll bar works amazingly. The hard top will lock in the back now but it wont sit down all the way. When I try to lock the hard top into place, it will but the roll bar will move up by half an inch then a thunk can be heard after it stops. The seals in the front are busted since whenever I try to use the roll bar or the hardtop controls it will leak. I'm gonna try to get help lifting the hardtop out of place since I don't feel comfortable doing it alone and get a direct look at the pins.
Also how would I check if the rear mechanism is jammed? Do I look at the cylinders in the trunk?
@@flawandalason you need to fix the front cylinder leaks first , The system relies on each area retaining its pressure or the other areas will gain and lose pressure in weird ways ..IE the roll bar moving and clunking .
Could this be my problem that my top will not go up or down now?
YES
This fluid is compatible for a E class Cabriolet ?
yes .. should be the same
is it the same for 2013 e350?
I'm not sure..haven't worked on that model. Sorry
Is it possible to shake the camera more? How many energy drinks did you have?
How much fluid did you eventually put in the reservoir? More than a litre?
1.25liters in the whole syatem, but he should flush it, when you flush it you willl use about 2 liters.
You can see how it´s done here ruclips.net/video/SAC1v1D-oSI/видео.html
Hi there, I've got a problem with my `95 A124 Mercedes, after replacing seals in the cylinders of the main hood lifters, the roof does not open. I had to let it replace, coz the left one was leaking badly (my mechanic replaced both sides just to be sure). The one that (un)locks the roof was replaced last year (received new seals too). Hydraulic fluid was topped up to maximum level (original one from MB). Now when I try to open the roof, the rear lock opens but the roof part where the glass window is lifts very very slow, and if finally rises so the front part can rise nothing happens. The button to open the roof blinks (I think even right from the moment on i pull it to open). Did you have such situation, do you know what the reason might be? Te engine runs when I operate the roof and I'm in P mode of course.
a few things could be the culprit . start with the easiest .. window sync. Unhook negative battery terminal (key out of ignition while battery unhooking and rehooking it up ) after 10-15 seconds re attach the neg battery cable. start the car and push the window switches one at a time.. up, and hold 5 seconds after it reaches the top . lower window and hold 5 seconds once all the way down . Do this for all the window switches. The roof needs to verify the windows are down to allow the roof to open past 1/2 way. It verifies by counting the number of times the window motor has turned from full up to full down . if the roof still won't open . check the microswitch on the hard tonneau cover (they need to confirm the tonneau is open ) on the right tonneau hinge . The other microswitch on the top bow extension could also be not operating.
Hi mate, thank you for your reply, and sorry for my late. not easy finding a minute time when small kids at home. I let my mechanic change the seals in two side cylinders and from my observation nothing leaks now. I just topped up the hydraulic fluid and operated the roof while the fluid container was open. I thought it was a good way to bleed the mechanism. I guess I was successful as after that I had to top up again and the mechanism worked a bit faster. The lid that covers the roof when it's closed didn't popped up unfortunately and I think the cylinder that opens and closes it got stacked. The window opening/closing mechanism before /after opening / closing the roof never worked, but the right rear window can't open, since the slide mechanism is broken since a couple of months now. Perhaps this might be the reason why the lid wouldn't open to hide the roof. Just my assumption.
Do you know by any chance how to bleed the mechanism? I think it might be full of air, as the fluid leaked previously.
I also unhooked the battery as you suggested and tried to operate the windows as you told me, unfortunatly it didn't helped.
Anyways if something pops up to your mind what the reason can be or where to look for a fault please let me know, my eMail is bartosz.chrzanowski@gmail.com I appreciate your support.
Where are you located in Canada?
about an hour North of Toronto...Barrie
I'm parting the black 1991 sl in the other videos...
Please is brake fluid DOT 4 PLUS, sheet 331.0 can be used as convertible fluid?. Thanks
No .. absolutely not lol.. brake fluid will eat the seals in your hydraulic roof or shock absorber lines. brake fluid is glycol based and hydraulic oil is mineral oil based
@@fupabox is there any other alternative instead of Mercedes Benz hydraulic fluid to replace for convertable fluid, cos i couldn*t find the Mercedes Benz fluid product. Thanks
www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Hydraulic-Fluid-Suspension-Convertible/dp/B00QB23FGC
google this one as well pentosin chf 11s
I eventually got this, hope it works well for it. Thanks
I could use the DS sun visor and DS outside door mirror if the retractor motor still works. I also need a set of wheels for this car. 8x16 ET34.
sunvisors are gone, the drivers side ext mirror is good lubed and tested.. I have 4 16x8s with good tires on the car which you can have real cheap as long as you can swap me a set of rims and tires (any condition ..just needs to roll when wrecking yard removes the car from driveway)
***** just want to say thanks for all u do reguarding mercedes diy, u make it almost affortable to own. (LOL).I have a 1992 300sl non bose or optic factory sound setup.Would u happen to know the speaker colors for the doors and dash tweeters.The factory radio really blows with the top down.Iam looking to replace the radio and by pass the the factory amps asap....thanks again for all you do.
fritzduval sorry for the late reply..check this link www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1708692-1991-500sl-wiring-radio.html
Hydraulic top... Man.. Do I really want to get into that mess. Why does Mercedes not believe in electronics? I'm evil I disconnected my vacuum actuated door locks and headrests
The hydraulics are pretty reliable...the early ones are all analogue and run by relays and microswitches..fairly simple stuff....did the disconnected headrests and door locks make a difference?
Just in that my aux vacuum pump never runs.. Diagnosis will tell.if its affecting engine vacuum
$10,000 for what?
ooops..read on. Looks like you only needed 1 litre...right?
unfortunately just over a litre so I had to buy the second bottle