Making a Steel Hooped Wooden Mallet
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- In this video I make two steel hooped wooden mallets, one entirely from beech and on the other, the head is made from elm and the handle from ash.
In the bigger one after I pressed on the rings, I put 4 screws in every ring and welded them completely so they wouldn't be visible.
The elm hammer has a lot of wormholes and imperfections but I think it only adds to the character.
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Nice work, but just one small correction. I own a 100 yr old mallet like the one you just built. The wood on this mallet extends the iron hoops by almost 1/2" inch. As the wood is hit it starts to mushroom around the hoops. I guess this helps to hold the hoops in place.
Sweet!
I'm reminded of cartoons, for some odd reason...
Thanx bud!
I really think the hoops are too near the ends and they should have been heated and shrunk to fit .
Again, another couple of beautiful and quality pieces.
Thank you!
Very good job!
Thanks for this video, I am hoping to do something similar to make a timberframe beetle mallet.
Great looking mallets, very nice work as always!!!
Thank you!
Thanks! Great simple design and very functional!
very nice work. now glue thick leather to both faces on both mallets, and they will be complete.
Really nice mallet! Well done.
Thank you very much!
Great mallets!
Thanks a lot!
I call these "Attitude Adjusters".
Operating a lathe with a long sleeved blouse? And security, how is it?
Carlos Faria mrs security went on vacation and took his kid common sense with her
Those Rings look like they will literally pop right off after using that mallet just a few times you didn't glue them on you didn't put any retaining pins through by their side how are those Rings supposed to stay on the mallet ? They don't look bad
You hot fit them and put them inboard farther from the ends. The wood ends mushroom from use and retain the hoops.
bravo majstore
I'm really liking your work. Subbed. :)
Awesome channel bro! Subbed!!
NEVER use rotative machines, neither stand next from them, with long sleeves, or with any loose clothe.
very impressive
Thank you!
very good.
Благодарю!
Thank you!
Svaka ti čast, čoveče! Samo nastavi ovako. Svako dobro i očekujem još klipova. :) Voleo bih, ukoliko možeš, da napraviš klip o klepanju sekire, ne bih li ja naučio od tebe, jer sam samouk što se tiče kovačkog zanata.
Puno hvala! Ne znam jel znas, al imam već nekoliko o kovanju sjekira. Pogledaj na mom kanalu.
Pogledao sam, već planiram da napravim onu veliku kao što si ti napravio.
Hvala lepo, pogledaću. :)
Heat the rings to dull red before mounting -> they'll contract as they cool, tighter fit.
I don't think that would work as it would basically burn the wood also and result in an even looser fit. I could be wrong though.
Verdigris Sirgidrev I just heat it with my heat gun, no need to get it red hot
are your wood lathe homemade?
I like your work but I was cringing when you hit the poll of your axe with another axe but good work
Both polls are soft mild steel so there is no real danger. Thanks for watching!
Thats why he wants wooden mallets
Heat the rings b4 putting them on...
I think that the wood burn and that would result in an even looser fit.
In case you are interested.
My old master (he made wood barrels )did this in the next manner with heated rings:
The ring area on wood is turned in a small angle (2-3 degrees ) and if the metal ring are 2 cm wide, the wood area should have 3 cm. One side of the ring is cold hammered to have a "conical" ring (not cilindrical), just like those msde for barrels. The largest part of the ring should have almost the same diameter as the smallest diameter of wood area ( a little smaller will be better), since the metal will be heated , it will become larger . Heat the rings in your forge, but before mount them, the rings area of wood should be dumpened in water. Mount the first heated ring with a hammer as much as possible and cool it fast in water, then proceed to the next (the same procedure we were using for mounting metal rings on wooden wheels for wagons). Using this method, the wood will be strangled by cooling metal and the extra 1 cm of wood will be the working area (no nails for the ring needed). Keep up the good work. I like it verry much!!
The old wagon wheel iron tires were heated until a piece of wood from the mallet stock just browned on contact. Then they were set on the wheel and cooled for a tight fit. Hotter would produce charred wood beneath the wheel, that would compress, loosening the fit.
Why not wedge the handles in the heads?
Well the handle is already glued in and the handle will break much sooner than it will slide out of that hole. Also the hole is straight and you need to have a tapered hole for the wedge to be effective.
Good answer haha!
you could use a dowel to attach head to handle, glue that in(or not). Then if the handle breaks, just drill out the dowel, the handle will come off the head. Not sure how much work it would be to get a glued handle out, then the time it would take to re prep the head. I wouldn't think it would be a huge issue, BUT, if you are going through all the effort of lap bands to make a long lasting head, you probably don't want a ton of work to refit a new handle or to just start over. probably the easiest ways are this: 1 make a top wide handle that the head slides up. 2. Use dry handle wood and green head wood, this method requires the head dry and shrink fit. So it wouldn't be immediately useable. And I wouldn't suggest quick drying in the oven.
Are you french ???
I'm from Croatia actually.
I think you need to take some time and go to WoodPrix website to learn how to make it.
bravo majstore
bravo majstore