Installing the Cheapest “Performance” Brakes on AMAZON!
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- The F350 needed some help stopping all that power under the hood lol
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It is nice to know that other people run into the same stupid issues I do. It's a brake job! I'll be done in an hour or so. (Two weeks and 3 teardowns later, it's finally done.) Glad to see you got it taken care of, and another great vidya!
Gee, and I thought me taking 8 hours to get a brake job done was bad... It takes me that long purely because of my attention to detail and not because I make 47 thousand stupid mistakes, lol
Wow ! Red callipers, that's gotta add 70-90 horsepowers to the old girl 😂
I agree with you on the cordless impact. Bought one a month ago and I do not regret it and neither does my back. Take care.
6:38. Add anti-seize! Future you will thank you
Good video as always Matt 20:14 @Diesel Creek
Matt , looks like those spring packs could use a little re arching and I always put a little grease on the hub face so next time the drums or rotors come off a little easier.I also use high temp silicone for anti chatter on the pads.
I use never seize on the hubs, but I’m taking that back off soon again anyway, I like the silicone idea
@@DieselCreek I was thinking the same thing. Muller Kupps makes a really good stud and hub cleaner simple and fast
I noticed you "kidnapped" a helper or two near the end of the job. WELL DONE!!!!
I’m glad you had your Dad to help on the second side. He’s proud of you.
Cross threads are better then no threads Lmfao 😂 10:00 @Diesel Creek
My tow vehicle is a Taurus Wagon so when it came time to do the brakes I got the Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with matching pads. People laugh sometimes when they notice the "High Performance" brakes on such a NOT high performance car but it stops MUCH better than it used to and I have no worries about the brakes heating up when hauling a loaded trailer.
Great video, just goes to show what a pain rust is, when I don’t have a jackstand available I always take the wheel and tire assembly and strategically place it under the vehicle, just in case the jack were to fail, The truck would only drop so far
Matt
Seems I learn something every time I watch your videos. I'll be putting that brake pedal truck to work. Thanks for making these videos for this amateur.
I have corded impacts, and one cordless impacts. Saves space on an over size air tank that I hardly ever used.
I love the Power Stop brakes, have them on my 2013 Edge.
Old school method = brake fluid goes on the ground! I love the honesty of this channel. Matt, how about a video of you and your crew riding ATVs?
I was hoping to do just that but apparently I never hit record
Have z36 power stops on my trucks. They are great. Good life and great for towing.
Thank you for the video, Matt.
I must interject-
When the friction material (lining) shears against the drum or rotor-
it turns into a gas. The cushion of this gas is otherwise known as
"pedal fade", greatly decreasing the friction contact and braking action.
Rotors are "drilled and slotted" to allow venting of this gas, virtually
eliminating pedal fade. The one inherent drawback of these is
their wear factor is increased- you will be replacing them more often.
When possible, buy organic pads. Even "semi metallic" wear very quickly,
and rust out. Ceramic have little dust, huge stopping power- but don't
last at all, comparatively. Regular cleaning & lubrication add to even
action and longevity; a good pressure rinse once a week. Keep soaps
& detergents away from brake components that remove the lube.
So, if the pad material sublimates into a gas, where does the non-magnetic dust come from? Brake fade really comes from boiling of the brake fluid in the pistons. This is why aircraft and racing brake fluids are silicone-based, the boiling point is *much* higher than automotive brake fluid. The drilling and slots improve the airflow through the ventilation vanes in the rotor. The brake is a machine that changes kinetic energy into heat energy and then radiates it into the surrounding air.
I don't know where you came up with the bullshit about the pads out-gassing and then whizzing out through the rotors but your theory is wrong. I was one of the first certified auto service techs in the nation and was a mechanic and crew chief on NASCAR modifieds and SCCA sports cars. I've seen the rotors glowing in the night at about 1200 - 1400 F, just between dull red and bright red.
Here's another little brake fact for you to ponder, Did you know that disk brakes can hydroplane? If the system is too cold to dry off water accumulation, a laminar film of water can build up on the rotor and cause the pad to float on it until enough heat (or brake pad gas, your choice) builds up to evaporate the water.
At around 21:32 I was thinking no way is this going to work. I thought the boards would break or the tires would slip off of them as you drove up. You made it look easy.
What he do may look janky as hell but apparently he knows what he's doing.
Matt is a rather daring type of guy using those ramps.
I use them all the time, never had an issue yet, they have a flange bolted on them to sit on the truck nice
Diesel Creek
Your young yet, loaded n unload small tractor that way, planks only difference. Moved lot between jobs.
One day must been to tired. One plank shot out , & implement caught on truck saving a turn over.
Neighbor happened to have hoist arm on his tractor n we got it on.
After that added to them metal lips ya kind locked in.
Next week or so every load unload made it pucker, & passage was not a smooth transition while on the porcelain throne in the reading room.
Yeah that’s the stuff RUclips is famous for...😅✌️
Extream duty For towing are actually pretty good been using them for years Matt 5:23 @Diesel Creek
Not fucking around when it comes to putting the quad on the truck lol 😂 your class
Your distain for working on brakes is like my working on plumbing Matt. Any ten minute fix turns into a two hour marathon with plenty of leaks until I get things sorted out. Cool trick for bleeding brakes, I sure could've used that knowledge back in the day when I worked on brakes on the family vehicle or my truck. I look forward to your next episode Matt and I hope you and yours remain healthy and safe. Cheers from an old retired coot living in Tennessee.👍❤️😷🍻✌️
Thanks Mr. Bob!
The ying of brake jobs against SMA's yang !😃
Good job, but should use jack stand to support the truck while you are working on it.
I made sure I never got under any part of it Incase it came down
13:01. Bleeder on top for hydraulic brakes but bottom for air brakes so the air doesn't escape. 😉
Board on break pedal is a genius idea , thank you :)
the old power seat trick, LOL
Here's some tips from a ex ford tech.before you put your rotors back on, put some cooperkote on the mating surfaces. You can thank me later,LOL.Your caliper bracket bolts use some blue loctite. You don't want them coming loose. Also use cooperkote on the caliper pins too. They won't sieze up on you. The wheel nuts have washers and you should put a drop of oil between the nut and the washer. It helps to lubricate them and they will last longer and give you proper torque specs. I figured I should share some knowledge. If you are having issues with your engine, check out powerstroke help on RUclips. He is extremely knowledgeable about ford diesels. I enjoy the videos and keep them coming.
Same here with the cordless tools..i haven't used my air tools in about a year except for my cutoff tool. So dang convenient!
You did a good job on your brakes. The only suggestion I have is to use a drain pan or can to capture the brake fluid.
Thanks for the great videos Matt. Always informative and entertaining, plus I know it's a lot of work for you. Nice seeing dad again too.
Thanks! He helped me bleed the breaks better. Gave the 2x6 a rest
lol
That power seat trick is gold!!!!
Gotta do what you gotta do when it’s just up to you
I've used the same rotors on two ford trucks now. I don't use them anymore. Both developed small cracks coming from the drilled holes. Within a couple months, the slots were packed full of crud and not doing anything. They ended up warping on both trucks. Trucks are on road only and tow about 30% of the time (8k trailer). I've switched to just sticking with OEM rotors and not had any problems.
I’ve had the great luck with them as have my friends! Maybe you got a bad batch? 🤷🏼♂️
Your a handy man Matt . Good for you ,nice to see young people that can do stuff
Thank you!
I'm just here for all the jackstand comments.
There’s a lot of them enjoy!
good luck your going to need it.
I love all the things you do
Have you seen the idea of using trigger bottle sprayer to pull fluid from the bleeder. How can you do a brake job without taking the rubbers and bushings apart filling them with grease or high temp anti-seize?? Also there's a little spring thing that stops the pad from rattling but also makes it harder for the cylinder to back off you can use pliers to lighten up the pressure on that spring so your shoes back off better.
Matt, Great video doing the brakes. Even when they send you the wrong size calipers. I guess I'm not alone.
Just installed Powerstops on my 2013 Rubicon with 37’s .... so nice! Only a Furd owner would think that 3/4 pedal is good!
Matt when you go to bleed your brakes to stop making a mess, connect a plastic tube from the bleeder screw, to a small glass jar, thats what I use when i have to bleed my brakes, even on my motor cycles!!
I do watch your videos and enjoy them a lot... Keep them coming...
Thank you!
That was funny seeing your board for the brake pedal to the seat that’s how I bleed all mine on my trucks never use the fancy tool... 😊👍
Hi Matt! Like your videos I'm a semi retired heavy equipment operator did it for 41 years ran cranes for most of those years anyway keep the videos coming be blessed
I was going to tell you that the 'sludge' in the transfer pump on the corn popper can be the dye in the off road fuel. The job had a diesel Miller welder with a Kubota engine and a NAPA inline fuel filter like a car, a clamp on each end thing. When it ran out of fuel with a tank full we pulled the filter and the same stuff but red came out of it. After a little gravity inducement of course. Put the filter back on and a welding we went. Never failed to be the same stuff. Hope that helps. GBWYall!
Great video; I have the same model truck; will use your video for help. Thanks
When you do brakes and rotors and calipers to replace the caliber, also you gotta check the master cylinder and make sure it’s topped off before you start bleeding the breaks
Loading that 4 wheeler was THE SKETCHIEST THING I'VE EVER SEEN on this channel !
A roll of emery cloth is always handy.
You put on slotted rotors because you run in the mountains but you use Barrel fittings on your brake lines. One good stomp on the brakes there goes your brakes.
Barrel fittings?? The fitting i installed was same as factory with a double flare
extremely entertaining, Matt's humor is the icing on the cake. One of the best of RUclips.
2 things that I like to do are, put anti seize between the brake line & the nut, also on brake line threads, & bleeder screw threads. I also like to rebleed the brakes after a week of use. Get real tight brakes then.
Hello from north east Montana.
I like that idea of never seize on the lines and fittings
I'm amazed that u have a collection of tools for everything!!!!
I’ve got tools that fix the tools that fix my other tools lol
Say what you want against rock auto but in 15 years I've yet to get the wrong part/part that won't fit (biggest reason I still buy from there). There are items that req a core, but not all the time, I've done several brake jobs on various vehs, not once have I bought a item that needed a core return...
I would suggest (what I use on all my own equipment ) is every autumn treatment of bar oil/lend seed mix spray. I first wash the frame /suspension very good let it dry completely then apply the mix. It soaks into the metal and the bar oil is very Sticky it stays. I've had no more surface rust issues.
what is "lend seed" oil??
What do you like more, the feel of brake fluid or the smell of burnt dif fluid
Matt, who are these 53 people/bots that don’t like this video?? I just don’t understand this. I guess they are trolls but why waste their time following your channel if they are going to do this. Assholes. I loved this and all your videos!
Soon as I saw those board ramps, all I could hear was, hold my beer watch this, dont worry honey I've done it before
Say, Matt, I did’nt see you use BrakeClean on those new rotors... Did it off camera? If not, waarped rotors in a very short time. Tthey are always coated with oil fro m factory...
You can call that lumber to hold the brakes, " WOODY" your helper. Lol
When you drive that quad up that strep ramp, my Butt puckered.
Lol first few times I did it mine did too but it’s really not bad at all
Hey Matt , I think you put the left rear caliper on the right side as the bleeder is on the bottom and should be on the top .
He corrected it on final installation
1- SAFETY FIRST Use cribbing or jack stands to hold up truck if jack fails.
2- When doing a project, a total cost breakdown would be interesting. (Breaks, containers/roof, whatever the project is.)
3- Thanks for posting.
Did you follow the Power Stop Break-In Procedure for Performance Upgrade Brake Kits With Drilled & Slotted Rotors?
5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you’re forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Yep sure did
@@DieselCreek Just purchased these for 2001 S10 ZR, can't wait to get them on and try them out.
FrostE One I’m happy with them
Show me what goes wrong is an honest video and it's worth having because then people could see that you can overcome the challenges and it's when you don't try that you fail
Success is from trying no matter what. Loving your videos
"Cooler stuff"??? I come for the mundane! :) Love my DC long sleeve shirt too! Cheers #etekrestorations
I actually bought myself an after Christmas present at Lowes and got a craftsman cordless impact driver on a huge sale. I love it I mostly use it on small engines and stuff and it works great not the biggest one they make but for $79.99.... 50% off I can't find anything to complain about.. For wheels I have 2 electric heavy duty impact guns, so I don't need a huge one
Popped a brake line on my Cavalier the other day. Has to get my roll of 3/16's brake line and fittings and make up a line and also replaced the rubber line too. Know what you were going through on that repair. Also when a bracket hole strips out and you need to drill and retap to the next bigger size.....
You don’t need that bracket hole anymore 😂👍🏼
16:14 just use the gravity bleed and then the bottle trick. I did it that way it worked perfect.
Check the back side of those rims...the tires will ware the lip(where the weights mount) off leaving a sharp edge to cut the tire.
I would say get you brake kits from Rock Auto because they always get things right but the Power Stop kit I ordered a couple months ago for my girlfriend's Saturn came with the entirely wrong pad hardware on one side!!! Well I guess they got one side right, lol... At least I didn't have to wait two weeks and a quick trip to O'Reilly's and $9 later I had the job done, lol
Peg over at zip ties and bias plies would say "sway bar, you don't need that".
Best opening line ever!!! Lmao
Motive power bleeder..only way to go... love mine
Great videos!! I don't miss a single one and I love your ambition to tackle big jobs. I'm not trying to tell you what to do, but having a few more years of experience compels me to share. Just watching this video and noticed you didn't torque lug nuts. Speaking from experience after hundreds of tire changes I had two wheels fall off within a month of each other. I torque every lug nut every time now. It's an expensive lesson to learn and would hate to see this happen to you.
Now I just need to learn all the steps before your brake bleeding hack and I'm ready to open my own shop.
There's always little jobs that need taking care of! Like housekeeping! :-)
Good video though Matt, despite the 'lost' footage! :-)
Stay safe! :-)
Thanks!
Two things; shouldn't the lube that comes with the pads be applied to the tabs and slots they ride in not the back of the pad, number 2 I got a glimpse of brake shoes behind the rotar which I assume is the emergency brake. Was that dealt with?
Been like that for 8 years I’m not fixing it now lol
Yes those are the parking brake shoes. Most vehicles with rear disc brakes have a drum parking brake.
Good video. but you are braver then me , i would never have drove that ATV up thous board's i would have fell off four sure. lol
And the fluid on the ground for dust control!
Performed this job many times on my 2005 Excursion with junk over the counter NAPA hardware under their parts warranty. Finally decided to quit with NAPA and ordered a Power Stop kit off Amazon, that fixed it up nice.
Yes!! 90% of my parts come from Napa and I’m generally satisfied, but their brakes are garbage!!
Great video. Nice Christmas night 2021 viewing. Hopefully you never spin one of those ramps out from under you when loading the quad. It blows when that happens. I did it once before taking a few extra seconds to pin them to the truck.
Yeah some time things don't work out like we would like them to. BUT, when you think about the money you saved doing the brakes yourself, you can put up with a little inconvenience. Need to post some more work on the old church. I really like seeing those videos. Thumbs Up!
I would sure like to see you have a jack stand under that thing with your jack for safety reasons. I know jacks seldom fail all at once but it can happen.
Nah,..he doesn't need those legs!!
My legs were never under the axle, not like the bed can come down that far
@@DieselCreek You'd have to admit, that many 'nasty accidents' occur because axle stands were not used in instances like this shown here.
@@DieselCreek I imagine you would just blame the jack if it fell rather than take a few seconds to use a jack stand in case the jack failed.
Hey safety Sally... You forgot to give him crap about not wearing a helmet while loading the ATV. He wasn't wearing gloves or ear muffs either. What about that? Maybe he needed to wear a nomex suit in case something spontaneously combusted. Geez.
great show keep them coming
Matt, from the looks of it you might consider adding over load springs.
NO NO NO jackstand! You really like to ride the lightning. Keep rolling the dice.
Did you put grease on the lug nuts when you put them back to hold the wheels on? If you did, that is the worst mistake you can ever make with them. That creates the lug nuts to self loosen on the threads and come off the lugs and the tire to loosen up.
A piece of clear pipe connected on the end of the bleeding nipple is best way to make sure there is no air left in the brake system, as you see if and when air bubbles start and stop
C'mon dude, use a board and a jackstand under that axle. You won't look good missing a foot.
At least put a stand under the back bumper or something
At least pick it up with the fork lift
Save some of that impact tool money for a jack stand.
How about you make a video, with your truck and your jack stand. Nope, you rather “c’mon dude”
Hey he could have been using HF silver jack stands Lol
You didn't have to pull the axles to get the rotors off? My dually needs rear rotors but I didn't feel like pulling the axles.
A very enjoyable vid AND informative1
No jack stands, loads atv on the truck instead of having to use a trailer like most parking lot queens....hero! People talk shit about not having jack stands and only having a hydraulic jack but fail to remember they trust their hydraulic brakes daily with 100k mile fluid in them👍🏻👍🏻
Exactly, plus even if it falls I was never under the dang thing! Nothing would happen!
$100 brakes on a $10 truck. But, hey, it's paid for. :)
Sings how you're made of money why don't you go by my new one then
Man... that's what you would call back log maintenance.... ;-).... BTW the F350 stands and goes on 3 wheels... so give the man a break... I do however feel sad about the driveway where Matt spilled some DOT4 brakefluid... man... need to call the authorities on that. Where do you live Matt??? LOL
Another great video, Matt. Weather is really improving there in Pa. Thanks, Matt.
it’s been real nice out 80 some yesterday and same with today
recommend rock auto for parts. You pay shipping but you get a choice of quality.
Where did you get that ratcheting adjustable wrench? Great video!
I like the way he capped off the brake line. I have hammered it flat, folded it over about 3 Times, never leaked. As long as it works, it's good
Just shows many times what seems like an easy job can turn bad in a hurry.
Ya I’ve done road side repairs like that but welding is much more dependable lol
Tip: when replacing the caliper/banjo if your crush washer (copper washer) doesn't seal and leak. Heat it till it flows with a propane torch. Had the issue on my s10. Some kits will come with a harder washer that doesn't imprint well. :)
Bleeder goes up top.
As stated in the video
Copper grease on the back of the pads is a good idea