Thank u for this video. It amazes me that people could thumb down a video like this. Just because you would build a system a different way doesn’t mean this video is bad.. I now know what to buy and I don’t even have to do the shopping!!
thats why they are thumbing it down! the pond tubing for example is profoundly stupid, its going to get so much gunk in each of the ribs and be impossible to clean. RO water is usually overkill too unless you live in a third world country. the product he shows doesnt do the exact same thing as hydroguard. i could go on and on. oh! air pump in tent is stupid too because it adds heat. he tries and thats great, but get your information from somebody who REALLY knows what they are talking about.
FML!?! I wish I would have seen this video a year ago. I bought a Current Culture undercurrent system that was EXTREMELY expensive . Very nice work man.
i used to use ro water then upgraded to 2 systems with about 150 gallons of water combined and doing that in ro was going to cost and arm and leg so swapped to just tap + 3 stage filter
You can cut the pipe between the two buckets that have the bulkheads on backwards and add a union. This way you’ll be able to break those buckets apart.
Good information on constructing the RDWC system. I've been looking for inexpensive square buckets for a while now. I know I can pick up Current Culture's buckets and bulkheads, but they are pricey. Happy growing and Grower's Luv!
Bro, hats off to you! This system is killer! You didn't cut any corners here. Bravo. The only thing I would change would be the RO system. I would 86 it in favor of just a simple filtration system, but that's just my preference.
Thank u very much. I agree with you, the RO is not a must, actually i build a new 20 bucket 4 light system and im using a 3 stage filter only ( just to remove some sediments)
Thats an interesting concept, I would love to know if it ends up working out. Normally in RDWC u want to make sure you move the volume of your total system about 7 times an hour and evenly as so that the nutrients reach all the plants in all the buckets. Good luck and happy growing
Great video 👍 very informative. I guess now can you please explain how to maintain the system as far as how to add water and when and how to measure and add nutrients
@@bounmeeyang8854 Hi, thanks for watching my video, much appreciated. Here is a link to the video i made for the new system and in my channel u will find another video relating to nutrient change and system clean out. ruclips.net/video/j2edLXP79cw/видео.html ruclips.net/video/GdsjDItN4kU/видео.html
What do you think about raising the reservoir in setups about 6 inches or so? Any particular reason you didn’t? Reason I ask is a) I built your EXACT setup to a T and ordered every single part that you suggested in your upgrades (ie. 1inch pond hose instead of 5/8 or 3/4, 1000 gph pump size, went with the mounting out the fourth bucket set instead of between them, installed a flow rate control just before the pump as you suggested would be wise etc.) b) the faster pump would require a faster flow of water that is gravity fed c) I would never use vivosun products as they’re cheap (although I understand why a beginner would be tempted and why you suggested it since you’re being efficient with product costs which is commendable on most of these products) but I am simply suggesting that a setup is only as good as the weakest link and thus, people should use AC Infinity or other high end products if they’re going to spend this kind of money anyways. My AC Infinity tent does not have a port directly on the ground and requires raising the reservoir by at least 6 inches, as do most higher end tents unfortunately. Only things I didn’t replicate that others might consider changing their configuration to was: 1) Respectfully (cause I’m a subscriber that appreciates your videos and insight), the way you did your solvent union made little sense because there may be a lack of understanding as to what exactly the solvent union does and is for (which should be used for being able to turn your pipes at odd degrees when you don’t know exactly what degree bend or the one you’ll be using or it may fluctuate in the system as well as serving as a quick disconnect). Better place for it is raising reservoir and putting it before the second 90 degree turn coming from the res. 2) to solve the issue as to the whole “can’t drain the system entirely because the system bulkheads are raised up an inch from the bottom of the inside of the bucket leaving some on each” (yes I know you explained that you RO until PPM’s are near zero and repeatedly flush but that seemed far too wasteful and inefficient for me which you normally consider so this is likely just simple oversight) but I raised up each 5 gallon tote with a 4 inch riser and put a drain hole on the bottom of each (1/2” barb with hose connecting nearly immediately to a shut off valve that stays off unless draining) and to empty the system of every drop (which I have to do once every 2 weeks) all you have to do is connect a pump with 1/2” hose and open the valves and it gets every single bit of water in the buckets. 3) I raised my reservoir about 7 inches and accommodated the raise with angles of the 90 degree fittings etc. 4) I used some long 90 degree drainage pvc fittings in some spots to assist in better flow around would be too tight of corners reducing the flow 5) I also spaced my buckets more efficiently (for better light dispersion and to minimize training needs) by doing 14” pipe between first and second bucket, 15” between second and third, 14” between 3rd and 4th buckets, 3” out from back of 4th bucket to the 90 degree, then it’s 7 3/4” from each 90 to the T joint on the far end where pump pulls from. I’ll edit the comment tomorrow when I’m not dead tired with exact PVC dimensions for those building this that don’t want to calculate all the cuttings individually and have a saw to do the cuts exactly perfect and very quickly. Save you all the trouble I went through. Overall though man, nice build and thank you for all your insights fellow growmie! You’ve got some seriously cool setups and some stellar looking product! Keep on keeping on brother 🤙🏻
Also those little fans are almost worthless. Also the original return tube to the pump was plenty big enough, you don't want too quick of a return anyways
the idea is to circulate your entire total water volume about 7 times an hour and with a small return hose its hard to do. Most water pumps from amazon are not high quality and as soon as pressure builds up they have a hard time moving a decent volume of water. the buckets i bought from lowes so there is no real link, if you have a local lowes u can pick it up from there. cheers and happy growing :)
How did you go from the inlet side of the water pump to a direct feed line? looks to be 3/4in or 1in instead of the pump being a submersible? I have the same pump but it didn't come with a ring to screw onto those threads(just has a plastic cage over the inlet port that I removed). Im looking to attach a 3/4 barb fitting to accept 3/4in pond tubing? Please help what parts did you use, or will I need? Thank you in advance anyone's input is appreciated
Did you go with the 1 inch ponding tubing for the return on your next system? If so, on the 2" X 1" Tee for the end of the return at the end of the buckets, does the 1" part of the Tee have a thread clear exit hole? Im looking at the fittings to the Tee and how to connect it to the pond tube. On 1:54 you mention needing this part, but i am struggling with those fitting. The names of the fittings and pipes are confusing. I did get the 1 inch pond tube, but cant figure out the connection back.
on my new systems my pipes are 2" so the T at the end is also 2" , then i got a 2" to 1" threaded reducer then screwed in a 1" threaded to barb fitting. example " amzn.to/3vcuAcD " this is way over priced in my opinion but just wanted to show u. " amzn.to/3azV7J3 " this is the reducer i used to go from 2" to 1" threaded. hope this helps good luck and happy growing
@@paulbbad145 Yes as long as your barb fitting is 1" it should work perfectly. Also if u can use this instead of the pond tubing " amzn.to/3tOPfDt " its more expensive but its tougher build, I just upgraded one of my systems to this tubing and will do same for next one. but i used the pond tubing for almost a year now with no issues, so if u want to save some money use the pond tubing " amzn.to/3njwc1E " - this is the pond tubing i used before. good luck
Im basically done just need to connect the top off to the drum do I just need a 3/4in to 1/4in adapter? Also what top off would I need to shut off the filter when the drums full?
Great informational video. thanks. Question: When doing a complete water change, how do you drain the entire system? would there not be left overs in each bucket due to the pipe not being flush with the bottoms of the buckets? thinking of making the switch. thanks
I have a new video on a bigger system ( same but 20 buckets ) and i explain exactly what you asked. here is a link ruclips.net/video/GdsjDItN4kU/видео.html . hope this helps answer all your questions regarding changing water without a bottom drain. Cheers and happy growing.
Funny when you talk about the Garden friendly fungicide and how cheap it is. That is for 8 oz sir. X that by 4 to get 32 and its more money than Hydroguard for the same size. Same application rate as the guard to. haha
Hi Steve, Actually if you give Garden friendly fungicide at the same dose as hydroguard then u have a pretty good chance of killing your plants, the dose is 1ml to 2ml per 10 gallons vs hydroguard being 2ml per gallon. so for example, on my 65 gallon system i give about 8 to 12ml MAX of garden friendly fungicide vs giving 120ml of hydroguard, as u can see that is 10x lower dosage for the same outcome. cheers , hope this helps.
2" works great but issue will be if you veg too long then you might get blockage in the pipes and that wont be good. I just built a 20 bucket system and had to veg for about 1.5 months, towards the end i noticed that the water level was not the same in all buckets, after inspection i found that some of the plants that had grown toooo much had partially blocked the 2" pipe and water was having a hard time flowing and distributing between the buckets which in turn was causing my total water volume to be less. Just something to think about if going with 2", but all of these can be solved by not over vegging and if needed roots can be successfully trimmed with no ill effects.
I would suggest the same size but there would be no difference in getting a bigger res. in theory the more total water volume u have the easier it gets to manage your ppm's and ph levels. But if you have watched my other videos, i have now systems with 24 buckets and the res is the same size and it makes no difference for me to make it bigger or smaller. cheers and happy growing.
Yes I watched all your videos and another question sir , there’s some guys running these system but they have 2 lines on top of the bucket and one at the bottom , do you have any idea why that is ?
WOW $5.98 for the 5 gallon totes at Lowe's. Twenty two months later Lowe's is now selling the 5 gallon totes for $11.48 ea. At least at the Lowe's near me.
what attachment do you use for the 3/4 return tube into the water pump so it can return into the reservoir, been having trouble finding a piece to fit the side of the water pump to put the tubing in
Actually my water pump came with the barb 3/4 fitting that i used for it. Every pump thread is different i guess. Your pump should of came with some connections, if you dont have a 3/4 i would say take whatever that came with your pump to a local hardware store and see if u can find a barb to your pumps thread. Sorry cant really help in this category. good luck and happy growing
Thanks for all of the very detailed information! Very helpful. I tried to do the same thing with the parts you specified but the bulkheads leaked around the bucket. Could it be from the taper in the buckets? How did you solve this? Silicone? Leak ender 2000?
Food grade silicone should be ok. NEVER put chemicals INSIDE your system. I’m sure you know this but I cannot stress this enough for newbies because this is how you severely contaminate your buds in very unsafe ways. Also, technically, food grade safe plastics and buckets should be used to avoid leaching of chemicals into the water which then get absorbed by plants and smoked into the lungs. Very dangerous.
Yes u need to hot glue the 2" pvc to the bulkheads and to each other, but if done correctly then should be easily disassembled. This is a recirculating system designed so you dont need to have a top feed, if you are looking for a way to do a top feed i would suggest u google it around or look at vidoes on youtube. This system feeds the water back to the system from the 2" pvc and sucks it back to the main reservoir from the back of the system so adding a top feed defeats the purpose of the system. hope that makes sense.
Hello, Yes 100% i use pvc all purpose glue. It has happened that even after using the glue i got a small leak. Its important to make sure u apply a good amount ( not too much as to leak everywhere) but also not too little. The thing is that the 2" pvc is, well, its pvc, lol but usually the bulkhead will be made out of abs or something else so make sure when u do pick out a glue from the hardware store it lists the 2 materials on the can. That's why I ended up getting the all purpose plumbing glue from Lowes since both pvc and abs are listed on the bottle.
@@f5f5quick appreciate you for making this video and providing links and all. I been struggling finding the right square buckets but thanks to you, I now see them at my local Lowe’s.
So that white pipe is for both filling ur buckets and taking water back to the resovior? Some of ur pictures had a black pipe with it some didn't kinda confused how it all works. Could u make a small vid explaining how exactly it runs?
No the white 2" pvc pipe is the return water from the reservoir. The black pipe u see which is a 3/4" or u can even use 1" pond tubing or any black flexible pipe which connects to the last 2 buckets and the pump in the front sucks the water from the back of the setup into the res and so the cycle continues.
Can u add a link for the tee with the reducer where your return hose connects too.. cant find tht tee at home depot or lowes.. the tee and adapter for the hose to attach if u can please
If your talking about the section where the 2" pvc T is then its not a 1 peace. its just a 2" T then from lowes i got a 2" to 3/4 reducer with threads and then i used a 3/4 threaded to barb fitting. hope this makes sense. If you want u can even use a 1" return hose for better performance then just reduce the 2" T to a 1" thread and get a 1" thread to barb fitting. also if you have a hard time finding 3/4 thread to barb or anything like that you can buy it from usplastic.com or similar websites. good luck and happy growing.
I sold that system in the video and built a bigger ( 20 bucket / 4 light ) system. its pretty much the same concept. I will try to make a video showing a water change and adding nutrients on my next water change.
With the 2in pipes in your buckets, did your roots get the pipes clogged up? I like your system, but my buddy keeps telling me to go with 3-inch pipes. idk, thoughts?
Depends on how long you veg for honestly. I now have built a 20 bucket and a 12 bucket ( which will be 24 buckets soon) systems ( video's are on my channel) that have gone through 3 cycles now. Only 1 plant during the 3 cycles grew roots so massive that it semi blocked the pipes( not clog just slowed down the flow). I do a check, by looking in the last few buckets of the system to make sure water level is same as the front and that tells me if there is a blockage somewhere. One important but often overlooked peace of that puzzle is the speed of your water pump, people often think getting a fast one / good one is the way to go but in my opinion that's wrong. If your water pump is not super fast or strong it wont create a strong pulling / vacuum effect and your roots wont get sucked too deep into the pipes. Anyway , i would also suggest you go with a 3 inch pipe if you can , at the time i build my system the most reasonable and yet functional was the 2" option, 3" bulkheads are like 2x to 3x more expensive and so is everything else.
@@f5f5quick Thank you. I really like your videos. I did research the 3in bulkheads, and you are right, they are expensive. Your system is economical and easy.
@@paulbbad145 I got my bulkheads from here ( www.aussieglobe.com/2-Bulkhead-Fitting-ABS-Slip-x-Slip_p_47.html ) pretty good price ( not affiliated with them, just sharing) **tip, i had 1 or 2 buckets that just wouldn't seal well around the bulkhead so i ended up putting clear waterproof silicone. I know this defeats the purpose of being able to take it apart but honestly not planning on taking it apart anytime soon lol. cheers , good luck and happy growing.
if u have any questions, feel free to comment and ill try to help out. I just built a bigger system ( 20 buckets 4 lights ) based exactly off this system. its easy to make , it works and gives u ok to good yields. enjoy and happy growing
Im going to be honest and say no unless u want to experiment and have fun. its a lot of work and lot of issues come up with hydroponics. I have been constantly battling slime then root rot then fungus gnats and slew of other issues. Yes i have a chiller and been doing it for a few years now but im starting to miss the simplicity of growing in coco. but again it was the most amount of fun i had building and growing with rdwc
@@Adeft Ok so the key to RDWC OR DWC is your water quality to begin with. Maybe if i wanted to waist money and use a 5 stage RO filter i would not have some of the issues but in all reality making 150gl of ro water every 7 days then top off was going to be too much so i used 3 stage filtered water. from what i know root rot can spread through a RDWC system and hit other roots which is not the case in DWC since every bucket is separate. In my opinion DWC is really much much harder to manage then RDWC. For example, in RDWC its much easier to control ph and ec since you have a larger amount of water, also ur not checking 10 buckets every day to find out if the water level is too low or ph is down or so on and so on , in RDWC u can see all that in your reservoir then if u have an auto top off you dont have to worry about water dropping too low and your ppm's should never go up since plants take nutrients and water and u top off with plain water driving your ppm down , u can add back ppm but its hard to remove ppm. anyway lol sorry for the long post, my point is that in soil or coco u have no real idea whats going on and i guess ignorance is bliss , in rdwc every problem stares u in the face and I cant just walk away from it, i end up spending more time researching and trying to fix things vs if it was just coco, i would water every 2 days and pray the rest of the days lol. good luck
It may be a stupid question but how exactly do you add your nutrients into this system? Like how much nutes/per day/just mixing into the main reservoir? Thanks this video is great🙌
Hi Jay, its actually a very important question :) adding in nutrients the wrong way is a sure fast way of killing all your plants. I made a video on how i do this for my new 20 bucket system so here is a link to it, and i have a video regarding how i built the 20 bucket system ( u can find it in my channel ) anyway here is the link to the video regarding nutrients and water change. feel free to ask any other questions u might have, cheers and happy growing ruclips.net/video/GdsjDItN4kU/видео.html
I used the 3-inch 76 mm hole saw to cut the hole. The hole is a like a millimeter too big. I inserted the 2 " Bulk head, but there is some play their. it doesn't fit like a glove, but kinda loose. is that ok?
i would suggest you apply some Silicone from the inside. I had a few leaks on another system i built so i tried the silicone and it worked like a charm. 2 grow cycles and no issues, no leaks all good. here is a link to the one i used " amzn.to/2PBYtn6 "
@@f5f5quick You are using the 73 mm hole saw for the 2-inch bulkheads, instead of the 76mm? I'm not too far into it, I only cut 2 holes in me buckets, so I still have time to switch holesaws.
@@paulbbad145 Yap , just made 12 more buckets today for my new setup and used the 73mm ( 2 7/8 ) the one i likened from amazon, and it works perfectly, but i still use silicone to be honest, for some reason the bulkheads i have are a hit and miss, some never leak some do so i just silicone everything just incase.
Hi Eric. Yes I used it on every single one of them and made sure to apply a good amount as before i had a small leak due to it not gluing well enough. I used this one amzn.to/3mE5rDR
Hey Jay, Im gonna give my opinion as i have not tested anything like that. I dont see why staggering the pots would be an issue as long as your water pump is cable of moving the total volume of water you have. I would say its all about volume of water and since pipes dont add that much volume vs the pots again leads me to think u wont have an issue. Now, if you do run into an issue it should be related to the pump not being able to pull the water then all u would need to do is upgrade to a stronger pump. Hope this helps
Nop, as long as you have one in each grow bucket then you can skip the nutrient bucket. Also I noticed that having an air stone or waterfall effect in the nutrient bucket can give you incorrect ppm and ph readings if you have a bluelab in there
sure it was about 1.5 per light but do keep in mind, i did not use co2 and used only 2 part feed system ( lucas formula), also it was not properly defoliated. I did this just to get a sense of how easy or hard it is to grow without over complicating things. Now if you add co2 ( which is huge boost in growth) and feed booster supplements, defoliate correctly, i dont see a reason not to be able to get in the 2.5 range.
Minimum 1.5lb per light, this was a 2 light setup so easily 3lb, however co2 was not used and only Lucas formula was used meaning you can get up to 2lb and even higher depending on your skill level good luck and happy growing
Do you have any experience with uniseals instead of bulkheads? I really like your setup but adding everything up, total cost is a bit pricey. Trying to save where I can. Thanks!
Hey, I would say stay away from uniseals, They are cheap and easy but they do crack and are not as stable as a bulkhead. I have another video of an outside setup which i used all uniseals and regretted it. some of my buckets started to crack from the pressure and honestly its a few dollars more ,i say better safe then sorry with 50+ gallons of water in your grow area :)
No I'm sorry but one way to reduce the noise is to hang the air pump from the frame of the tent or any place as long as it doesn't touch anything then sound is substantially reduced. Cheers
well the ro system needs a water source and a drain source. if u say connect it to a garden hose or some other source of water then all u need is a place for the ro system to drain out the dirty water. so technically u dont need a sink but it helps to have one near by.
Here is a link to a di filter u can purchase from amazon ( amzn.to/2RqGXQF ) for the length of the hose i would say get about 16 to 20 feet and u can cut it to your length. the tent is 8ft inside and if your reservoir outside like mine then a few more feet for the outside , thats why i suggest u get a bit longer so u can cut it.
Good question. I actually used the lucas formula for my 2 grows and it worked out great. Now, Lucas formula recommends using 8ml micro and 16ml bloom from general hydroponics for every gallon of water and nothing else. Starting off my ppm @500 scale was usually about 1000 to 1200 and they would consume about 100 ppm a day, I knew this since my top off was just water and i can see the ppm drop daily. I usually would wait about 3 days and then do an about 20 to 30% top off, meaning like say 2ml micro and 4ml bloom per gallon and bring the ppm's back up until the 7th day and do a water change with new nutrients. I have also used calmag with my regular nutrients. Hope this helps.
1st put empty net pots in the buckets(after making the whole on the lids), now fill the system up with water, when water touches the bottom of the net pots( you should see a little bit of water in the net pots) then go and install your top off. this way you know that it will maintain that water level, from there you can always lower the top off a little when your plants have roots and your water level does not need to be that high anymore. Make sure your water level is not too much in the net pots and never covers the stem base, if your stem base is in water your plant will die. What i do , is add a little bit of Hydroton and see if its getting wet then i place my clone on that then cover it all the way up with Hydroton. so far this has worked for me. good luck.
@@Jaychase69 Also you can and probably should top feed them for a few days until u see roots coming out the bottom of the net pots and hitting the water, I made the mistake once and didnt do that, thinking it should be ok my water level is up enough to hit them but not drown them but my plants started to die, so now I always top feed for a few days till i see roots then its on auto pilot after that. good luck Jay and happy growing.
@@f5f5quick Im trying to put that in right now and I just realized I cant fill the system until i put the top off in because my drum is outside. Is there any way you could measure how many inches it is from the top of the bucket to the top of the top off? I built this exact system pretty much
depends on the ppm of the water and whats in it actually. I would not be able to give you sound advice here honestly but what you can do is get your water tested then call say general hydroponics and they can guide you from there.
you'll wind up with brown sludge on roots using well water. Hook up ro system and using great white no problems on well water of 390 ppm after ro is 17 ppm😊
U want the water temp to be at 68f maybe up to 72 max before you get root rot they will start to turn brown it can be done if u keep ur room temps down at like 72 ur gonna pay for more a/c or buy a chiller to keep the water temp within range
I dont remember anymore honestly since i now have a full grow room but i would suggest you get the buckets, line them up in the tent and measure that way. u can probably fit more buckets if u wanted to. cheers and happy growing
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I now mostly use HLG lights, like the 650r and the diablo scorpion, amazing lights in my opinion. maybe on my next build i will try those out. cheers and thanks for the advice.
No lie, this looks dope!! However, these plants don't need all these thousand dollars system to produce. Just grab some good genetics and a bag of fox farm soil and your good to go. A pair of Levi's will keep me warm the same as a pair of $2000 Gucci jeans.
HaHa well said Ace, however, the point of the video was to show that you dont need a few thousand dollar hydroponics system, and that you can build it yourself for the fraction of the cost. Now true, u can grow them in soil, but hydroponics has its own upsides that people choose to go for, example, I never buy soil, i dont use quarter of the nutrients people use with soil. and it grows like a monster due to the constant nutrient and water availability . The list of positives goes on but there are drawbacks just like in anything. I guess it comes down to personal choice. and 1 last thing. Since i have auto top off, i can go on a trip for 7 to 10 days and not worry about my plants Whatsoever !
Thank u for this video. It amazes me that people could thumb down a video like this. Just because you would build a system a different way doesn’t mean this video is bad.. I now know what to buy and I don’t even have to do the shopping!!
thats why they are thumbing it down! the pond tubing for example is profoundly stupid, its going to get so much gunk in each of the ribs and be impossible to clean. RO water is usually overkill too unless you live in a third world country. the product he shows doesnt do the exact same thing as hydroguard. i could go on and on. oh! air pump in tent is stupid too because it adds heat. he tries and thats great, but get your information from somebody who REALLY knows what they are talking about.
FML!?! I wish I would have seen this video a year ago. I bought a Current Culture undercurrent system that was EXTREMELY expensive . Very nice work man.
How much was it?
Great video, you took a lot of time and effort to show it’s done. Much appreciated.
So are the unsealed bulkhead any good, thanks
Sorted informational video, thanks 4 taking time to create & post. Using R/O water with 0 EC saves loads of hassle.
i used to use ro water then upgraded to 2 systems with about 150 gallons of water combined and doing that in ro was going to cost and arm and leg so swapped to just tap + 3 stage filter
You can cut the pipe between the two buckets that have the bulkheads on backwards and add a union. This way you’ll be able to break those buckets apart.
Thanks for the list. If I build my own I'll recheck this for a few of those links.
I'm really hoping this is the video I was looking for. I'm in an 8*4 and have been looking to switch over to rdwc
Good information on constructing the RDWC system. I've been looking for inexpensive square buckets for a while now. I know I can pick up Current Culture's buckets and bulkheads, but they are pricey. Happy growing and Grower's Luv!
Glad it was helpful!
I arrived at a very similar process after 3 years of research and experimentation
Now you need to add a waterfall system, Great video!
That would be cool!
Bro, hats off to you! This system is killer! You didn't cut any corners here. Bravo. The only thing I would change would be the RO system. I would 86 it in favor of just a simple filtration system, but that's just my preference.
Thank u very much. I agree with you, the RO is not a must, actually i build a new 20 bucket 4 light system and im using a 3 stage filter only ( just to remove some sediments)
I appreciate this video, I'm in the process of building a very similar system and this video was great to reference.
I'm glad my video was helpful
thanks for sharing,respect from Scotland
I have the same tent with a 4 bucket undercurrent. Your spot on man, great work. I'll being going 8 buckets in a few weeks.
Good luck!
@@f5f5quick ended up going 6 buckets to keep the reservoir instead they tent. Working great.
Thank you
Building my own hydro set in a few months in my 5x10 tent. This is everything
It's crazy seeing how much the prices on everything have skyrocketed the last 2 years.
I looked up the price of the buckets I got after your post and could not believe that the price of a plastic 5 gallon bucket doubled, wtf !
At 22:55 you were talking about the air vent. Could you not use the round holes on the sides I'm doing my best not to cut new Holes
what if you keep the supply and return water loops seperate. may help with water flow.
I'm building a similar system, but I'm going to try aquarium power heads to move water instead of getting a bigger pump
Thats an interesting concept, I would love to know if it ends up working out. Normally in RDWC u want to make sure you move the volume of your total system about 7 times an hour and evenly as so that the nutrients reach all the plants in all the buckets. Good luck and happy growing
So they slip Into the fitting basically have you had any leaks? With the slip bulkhead?
What setting did you use for the Homelabs dehumidifier? Continuous? Or just regular setting with auto shut off?
With the new 20 buckets system, are you still using the 5 gallon buckets? learning a bunch!
Yap 5 gallon, gave you a little more context on the other video comment. Cheers and happy growing
Great video 👍 very informative. I guess now can you please explain how to maintain the system as far as how to add water and when and how to measure and add nutrients
sorry for the late reply. I built a new 20 bucket system and will do a video on that one and explain the stuff i missed in this video.
@@f5f5quick lets see your new built and what nutrients you use and your yields. Very detailed 👍👍
@@bounmeeyang8854 Hi, thanks for watching my video, much appreciated. Here is a link to the video i made for the new system and in my channel u will find another video relating to nutrient change and system clean out. ruclips.net/video/j2edLXP79cw/видео.html ruclips.net/video/GdsjDItN4kU/видео.html
What do you think about raising the reservoir in setups about 6 inches or so? Any particular reason you didn’t? Reason I ask is a) I built your EXACT setup to a T and ordered every single part that you suggested in your upgrades (ie. 1inch pond hose instead of 5/8 or 3/4, 1000 gph pump size, went with the mounting out the fourth bucket set instead of between them, installed a flow rate control just before the pump as you suggested would be wise etc.) b) the faster pump would require a faster flow of water that is gravity fed c) I would never use vivosun products as they’re cheap (although I understand why a beginner would be tempted and why you suggested it since you’re being efficient with product costs which is commendable on most of these products) but I am simply suggesting that a setup is only as good as the weakest link and thus, people should use AC Infinity or other high end products if they’re going to spend this kind of money anyways. My AC Infinity tent does not have a port directly on the ground and requires raising the reservoir by at least 6 inches, as do most higher end tents unfortunately.
Only things I didn’t replicate that others might consider changing their configuration to was:
1) Respectfully (cause I’m a subscriber that appreciates your videos and insight), the way you did your solvent union made little sense because there may be a lack of understanding as to what exactly the solvent union does and is for (which should be used for being able to turn your pipes at odd degrees when you don’t know exactly what degree bend or the one you’ll be using or it may fluctuate in the system as well as serving as a quick disconnect). Better place for it is raising reservoir and putting it before the second 90 degree turn coming from the res.
2) to solve the issue as to the whole “can’t drain the system entirely because the system bulkheads are raised up an inch from the bottom of the inside of the bucket leaving some on each” (yes I know you explained that you RO until PPM’s are near zero and repeatedly flush but that seemed far too wasteful and inefficient for me which you normally consider so this is likely just simple oversight) but I raised up each 5 gallon tote with a 4 inch riser and put a drain hole on the bottom of each (1/2” barb with hose connecting nearly immediately to a shut off valve that stays off unless draining) and to empty the system of every drop (which I have to do once every 2 weeks) all you have to do is connect a pump with 1/2” hose and open the valves and it gets every single bit of water in the buckets.
3) I raised my reservoir about 7 inches and accommodated the raise with angles of the 90 degree fittings etc.
4) I used some long 90 degree drainage pvc fittings in some spots to assist in better flow around would be too tight of corners reducing the flow
5) I also spaced my buckets more efficiently (for better light dispersion and to minimize training needs) by doing 14” pipe between first and second bucket, 15” between second and third, 14” between 3rd and 4th buckets, 3” out from back of 4th bucket to the 90 degree, then it’s 7 3/4” from each 90 to the T joint on the far end where pump pulls from.
I’ll edit the comment tomorrow when I’m not dead tired with exact PVC dimensions for those building this that don’t want to calculate all the cuttings individually and have a saw to do the cuts exactly perfect and very quickly. Save you all the trouble I went through.
Overall though man, nice build and thank you for all your insights fellow growmie! You’ve got some seriously cool setups and some stellar looking product! Keep on keeping on brother 🤙🏻
Also calculate the Volume of the air-pipes to choose the right fan
So I should move the bulkheads to the front of the bucket?
Can you list the shut-off valves you think are needed?
So is the the slip in slip out bulk head reuseable,, do u have to use any PVC cement
I don't see any link for the buckets?
Also those little fans are almost worthless. Also the original return tube to the pump was plenty big enough, you don't want too quick of a return anyways
the idea is to circulate your entire total water volume about 7 times an hour and with a small return hose its hard to do. Most water pumps from amazon are not high quality and as soon as pressure builds up they have a hard time moving a decent volume of water.
the buckets i bought from lowes so there is no real link, if you have a local lowes u can pick it up from there. cheers and happy growing :)
How much pvc did you need for the complete set up
How did you go from the inlet side of the water pump to a direct feed line? looks to be 3/4in or 1in instead of the pump being a submersible? I have the same pump but it didn't come with a ring to screw onto those threads(just has a plastic cage over the inlet port that I removed). Im looking to attach a 3/4 barb fitting to accept 3/4in pond tubing? Please help what parts did you use, or will I need? Thank you in advance anyone's input is appreciated
Your a legend thanks mate ☝️
Did you go with the 1 inch ponding tubing for the return on your next system? If so, on the 2" X 1" Tee for the end of the return at the end of the buckets, does the 1" part of the Tee have a thread clear exit hole? Im looking at the fittings to the Tee and how to connect it to the pond tube. On 1:54 you mention needing this part, but i am struggling with those fitting. The names of the fittings and pipes are confusing. I did get the 1 inch pond tube, but cant figure out the connection back.
on my new systems my pipes are 2" so the T at the end is also 2" , then i got a 2" to 1" threaded reducer then screwed in a 1" threaded to barb fitting. example " amzn.to/3vcuAcD " this is way over priced in my opinion but just wanted to show u. " amzn.to/3azV7J3 " this is the reducer i used to go from 2" to 1" threaded. hope this helps good luck and happy growing
@@f5f5quick so you used the 1" diameter Pond tubing, and that worked with these fittings?
@@paulbbad145 Yes as long as your barb fitting is 1" it should work perfectly. Also if u can use this instead of the pond tubing " amzn.to/3tOPfDt " its more expensive but its tougher build, I just upgraded one of my systems to this tubing and will do same for next one. but i used the pond tubing for almost a year now with no issues, so if u want to save some money use the pond tubing " amzn.to/3njwc1E " - this is the pond tubing i used before. good luck
Thank you!! I build my by your , but 10 buckets
Ya the more buckets u can fit the better your harvest will be, good luck
Im basically done just need to connect the top off to the drum do I just need a 3/4in to 1/4in adapter? Also what top off would I need to shut off the filter when the drums full?
Great informational video. thanks.
Question: When doing a complete water change, how do you drain the entire system? would there not be left overs in each bucket due to the pipe not being flush with the bottoms of the buckets?
thinking of making the switch. thanks
I have a new video on a bigger system ( same but 20 buckets ) and i explain exactly what you asked. here is a link ruclips.net/video/GdsjDItN4kU/видео.html . hope this helps answer all your questions regarding changing water without a bottom drain. Cheers and happy growing.
I bought the inline pump but the barbed fitting isnt small enough for the 3/4 return line I bought ? It’s a inch fit so where do I get the fitting ?
Funny when you talk about the Garden friendly fungicide and how cheap it is. That is for 8 oz sir. X that by 4 to get 32 and its more money than Hydroguard for the same size. Same application rate as the guard to. haha
Hi Steve, Actually if you give Garden friendly fungicide at the same dose as hydroguard then u have a pretty good chance of killing your plants, the dose is 1ml to 2ml per 10 gallons vs hydroguard being 2ml per gallon. so for example, on my 65 gallon system i give about 8 to 12ml MAX of garden friendly fungicide vs giving 120ml of hydroguard, as u can see that is 10x lower dosage for the same outcome. cheers , hope this helps.
3 inch bulk heads is an over kill anyway. 2 inch is more than enough. This is very informative!!!
2" works great but issue will be if you veg too long then you might get blockage in the pipes and that wont be good. I just built a 20 bucket system and had to veg for about 1.5 months, towards the end i noticed that the water level was not the same in all buckets, after inspection i found that some of the plants that had grown toooo much had partially blocked the 2" pipe and water was having a hard time flowing and distributing between the buckets which in turn was causing my total water volume to be less. Just something to think about if going with 2", but all of these can be solved by not over vegging and if needed roots can be successfully trimmed with no ill effects.
I swear I'm dumb. I have to look at this line 8 more times
This video is great , thank you my man , do I need my resorvior bigger than the rest of the bucket ? Or the same size ?
I would suggest the same size but there would be no difference in getting a bigger res. in theory the more total water volume u have the easier it gets to manage your ppm's and ph levels. But if you have watched my other videos, i have now systems with 24 buckets and the res is the same size and it makes no difference for me to make it bigger or smaller. cheers and happy growing.
Yes I watched all your videos and another question sir , there’s some guys running these system but they have 2 lines on top of the bucket and one at the bottom , do you have any idea why that is ?
WOW $5.98 for the 5 gallon totes at Lowe's. Twenty two months later Lowe's is now selling the 5 gallon totes for $11.48 ea. At least at the Lowe's near me.
thats crazy, seriously.
Can you post a video of the 20 bucket set up?
Ya i was planning on making a video after i harvest but i guess i can make one with the plants in it. Stay tuned, it should be up in a week or so max.
what attachment do you use for the 3/4 return tube into the water pump so it can return into the reservoir, been having trouble finding a piece to fit the side of the water pump to put the tubing in
Actually my water pump came with the barb 3/4 fitting that i used for it. Every pump thread is different i guess. Your pump should of came with some connections, if you dont have a 3/4 i would say take whatever that came with your pump to a local hardware store and see if u can find a barb to your pumps thread. Sorry cant really help in this category. good luck and happy growing
Thanks for all of the very detailed information! Very helpful. I tried to do the same thing with the parts you specified but the bulkheads leaked around the bucket. Could it be from the taper in the buckets? How did you solve this? Silicone? Leak ender 2000?
Food grade silicone should be ok. NEVER put chemicals INSIDE your system. I’m sure you know this but I cannot stress this enough for newbies because this is how you severely contaminate your buds in very unsafe ways. Also, technically, food grade safe plastics and buckets should be used to avoid leaching of chemicals into the water which then get absorbed by plants and smoked into the lungs. Very dangerous.
Do you need to glue the 2' pvc together?
And could I easily add a waterfall with 1 inch top feeding ?
Yes u need to hot glue the 2" pvc to the bulkheads and to each other, but if done correctly then should be easily disassembled. This is a recirculating system designed so you dont need to have a top feed, if you are looking for a way to do a top feed i would suggest u google it around or look at vidoes on youtube. This system feeds the water back to the system from the 2" pvc and sucks it back to the main reservoir from the back of the system so adding a top feed defeats the purpose of the system. hope that makes sense.
Do you add any type of glue or sealer on the 2” pvc pipe where it slides into the bulkhead? Or does it create a tight seal just by sliding in?
Hello, Yes 100% i use pvc all purpose glue. It has happened that even after using the glue i got a small leak. Its important to make sure u apply a good amount ( not too much as to leak everywhere) but also not too little. The thing is that the 2" pvc is, well, its pvc, lol but usually the bulkhead will be made out of abs or something else so make sure when u do pick out a glue from the hardware store it lists the 2 materials on the can. That's why I ended up getting the all purpose plumbing glue from Lowes since both pvc and abs are listed on the bottle.
@@f5f5quick appreciate you for making this video and providing links and all. I been struggling finding the right square buckets but thanks to you, I now see them at my local Lowe’s.
@@KingEversProduction Cheers and happy growing :)
So that white pipe is for both filling ur buckets and taking water back to the resovior? Some of ur pictures had a black pipe with it some didn't kinda confused how it all works. Could u make a small vid explaining how exactly it runs?
I got same exact size tent so was planning to do this exact setuo
No the white 2" pvc pipe is the return water from the reservoir. The black pipe u see which is a 3/4" or u can even use 1" pond tubing or any black flexible pipe which connects to the last 2 buckets and the pump in the front sucks the water from the back of the setup into the res and so the cycle continues.
Can u add a link for the tee with the reducer where your return hose connects too.. cant find tht tee at home depot or lowes.. the tee and adapter for the hose to attach if u can please
If your talking about the section where the 2" pvc T is then its not a 1 peace. its just a 2" T then from lowes i got a 2" to 3/4 reducer with threads and then i used a 3/4 threaded to barb fitting. hope this makes sense. If you want u can even use a 1" return hose for better performance then just reduce the 2" T to a 1" thread and get a 1" thread to barb fitting. also if you have a hard time finding 3/4 thread to barb or anything like that you can buy it from usplastic.com or similar websites. good luck and happy growing.
Can you do a video showing us how exactly you feed and how you replace all the water and nutes Please. Thank you for this video it helped greatly.
I sold that system in the video and built a bigger ( 20 bucket / 4 light ) system. its pretty much the same concept. I will try to make a video showing a water change and adding nutrients on my next water change.
great video
With the 2in pipes in your buckets, did your roots get the pipes clogged up? I like your system, but my buddy keeps telling me to go with 3-inch pipes. idk, thoughts?
Depends on how long you veg for honestly. I now have built a 20 bucket and a 12 bucket ( which will be 24 buckets soon) systems ( video's are on my channel) that have gone through 3 cycles now. Only 1 plant during the 3 cycles grew roots so massive that it semi blocked the pipes( not clog just slowed down the flow).
I do a check, by looking in the last few buckets of the system to make sure water level is same as the front and that tells me if there is a blockage somewhere. One important but often overlooked peace of that puzzle is the speed of your water pump, people often think getting a fast one / good one is the way to go but in my opinion that's wrong. If your water pump is not super fast or strong it wont create a strong pulling / vacuum effect and your roots wont get sucked too deep into the pipes. Anyway , i would also suggest you go with a 3 inch pipe if you can , at the time i build my system the most reasonable and yet functional was the 2" option, 3" bulkheads are like 2x to 3x more expensive and so is everything else.
@@f5f5quick Thank you. I really like your videos. I did research the 3in bulkheads, and you are right, they are expensive. Your system is economical and easy.
@@paulbbad145 I got my bulkheads from here ( www.aussieglobe.com/2-Bulkhead-Fitting-ABS-Slip-x-Slip_p_47.html ) pretty good price ( not affiliated with them, just sharing) **tip, i had 1 or 2 buckets that just wouldn't seal well around the bulkhead so i ended up putting clear waterproof silicone. I know this defeats the purpose of being able to take it apart but honestly not planning on taking it apart anytime soon lol. cheers , good luck and happy growing.
Never showed the video you had. Amazing setup gonna base my build off of this for sure.
if u have any questions, feel free to comment and ill try to help out. I just built a bigger system ( 20 buckets 4 lights ) based exactly off this system. its easy to make , it works and gives u ok to good yields. enjoy and happy growing
Love your vids, do you think its worth making this kinda of setup for only 4 plants? any recommendations?
Im going to be honest and say no unless u want to experiment and have fun. its a lot of work and lot of issues come up with hydroponics. I have been constantly battling slime then root rot then fungus gnats and slew of other issues. Yes i have a chiller and been doing it for a few years now but im starting to miss the simplicity of growing in coco. but again it was the most amount of fun i had building and growing with rdwc
@@f5f5quick I see. Thanks for the answer! Do you think the issues you have been facing got anything to do with Rdwc compared to DWC?
@@Adeft Ok so the key to RDWC OR DWC is your water quality to begin with. Maybe if i wanted to waist money and use a 5 stage RO filter i would not have some of the issues but in all reality making 150gl of ro water every 7 days then top off was going to be too much so i used 3 stage filtered water. from what i know root rot can spread through a RDWC system and hit other roots which is not the case in DWC since every bucket is separate. In my opinion DWC is really much much harder to manage then RDWC. For example, in RDWC its much easier to control ph and ec since you have a larger amount of water, also ur not checking 10 buckets every day to find out if the water level is too low or ph is down or so on and so on , in RDWC u can see all that in your reservoir then if u have an auto top off you dont have to worry about water dropping too low and your ppm's should never go up since plants take nutrients and water and u top off with plain water driving your ppm down , u can add back ppm but its hard to remove ppm. anyway lol sorry for the long post, my point is that in soil or coco u have no real idea whats going on and i guess ignorance is bliss , in rdwc every problem stares u in the face and I cant just walk away from it, i end up spending more time researching and trying to fix things vs if it was just coco, i would water every 2 days and pray the rest of the days lol. good luck
It may be a stupid question but how exactly do you add your nutrients into this system? Like how much nutes/per day/just mixing into the main reservoir? Thanks this video is great🙌
Hi Jay, its actually a very important question :) adding in nutrients the wrong way is a sure fast way of killing all your plants. I made a video on how i do this for my new 20 bucket system so here is a link to it, and i have a video regarding how i built the 20 bucket system ( u can find it in my channel ) anyway here is the link to the video regarding nutrients and water change. feel free to ask any other questions u might have, cheers and happy growing ruclips.net/video/GdsjDItN4kU/видео.html
Whats the spacing between the buckets brother got the same tent.
I used the 3-inch 76 mm hole saw to cut the hole. The hole is a like a millimeter too big. I inserted the 2 " Bulk head, but there is some play their. it doesn't fit like a glove, but kinda loose. is that ok?
i would suggest you apply some Silicone from the inside. I had a few leaks on another system i built so i tried the silicone and it worked like a charm. 2 grow cycles and no issues, no leaks all good. here is a link to the one i used " amzn.to/2PBYtn6 "
oh and also i swapped to using a 73mm hole saw , this is what i use incase u build another system or something " amzn.to/3sscC5d "
@@f5f5quick You are using the 73 mm hole saw for the 2-inch bulkheads, instead of the 76mm? I'm not too far into it, I only cut 2 holes in me buckets, so I still have time to switch holesaws.
@@paulbbad145 Yap , just made 12 more buckets today for my new setup and used the 73mm ( 2 7/8 ) the one i likened from amazon, and it works perfectly, but i still use silicone to be honest, for some reason the bulkheads i have are a hit and miss, some never leak some do so i just silicone everything just incase.
Thank you for the info! I turn my friends on to your videos! They love em
One last question did you use pvc cement to join the pipes to the bulkheads? This is something alot of us are asking online
Hi Eric. Yes I used it on every single one of them and made sure to apply a good amount as before i had a small leak due to it not gluing well enough. I used this one amzn.to/3mE5rDR
Would the system work if i staggered the pots for monster cropping? Or do the pipes have to be even for the system to work? Thanks
Hey Jay, Im gonna give my opinion as i have not tested anything like that. I dont see why staggering the pots would be an issue as long as your water pump is cable of moving the total volume of water you have. I would say its all about volume of water and since pipes dont add that much volume vs the pots again leads me to think u wont have an issue. Now, if you do run into an issue it should be related to the pump not being able to pull the water then all u would need to do is upgrade to a stronger pump. Hope this helps
@@f5f5quick Thanks brotha, I think im gonna try it and see what happens
Another question, Do I need a airstone in the nutrient bucket?
Nop, as long as you have one in each grow bucket then you can skip the nutrient bucket. Also I noticed that having an air stone or waterfall effect in the nutrient bucket can give you incorrect ppm and ph readings if you have a bluelab in there
Can you also please tell us what your yield was for the 8 buckets?
sure it was about 1.5 per light but do keep in mind, i did not use co2 and used only 2 part feed system ( lucas formula), also it was not properly defoliated. I did this just to get a sense of how easy or hard it is to grow without over complicating things. Now if you add co2 ( which is huge boost in growth) and feed booster supplements, defoliate correctly, i dont see a reason not to be able to get in the 2.5 range.
Good morning, what approximate production offers a system like this with that number of plants. Thank you
Minimum 1.5lb per light, this was a 2 light setup so easily 3lb, however co2 was not used and only Lucas formula was used meaning you can get up to 2lb and even higher depending on your skill level good luck and happy growing
Do you have any experience with uniseals instead of bulkheads? I really like your setup but adding everything up, total cost is a bit pricey. Trying to save where I can. Thanks!
Hey,
I would say stay away from uniseals, They are cheap and easy but they do crack and are not as stable as a bulkhead. I have another video of an outside setup which i used all uniseals and regretted it. some of my buckets started to crack from the pressure and honestly its a few dollars more ,i say better safe then sorry with 50+ gallons of water in your grow area :)
Is there a quiet air pump youbcan recommend?
No I'm sorry but one way to reduce the noise is to hang the air pump from the frame of the tent or any place as long as it doesn't touch anything then sound is substantially reduced. Cheers
Yesssir
Hey how did you get the pvc of side the tent cut a hole?
sorry for the late reply, yes i cut a whole and took it out then just taped around the pipe to prevent the smell from leaking out and bugs getting in.
I got around this by using the lower zippers for the tent!
Do I have to connect the r/o system to my sink ? Is there another way ?
well the ro system needs a water source and a drain source. if u say connect it to a garden hose or some other source of water then all u need is a place for the ro system to drain out the dirty water. so technically u dont need a sink but it helps to have one near by.
Bro I am so stuck, I wish I could talk to someone about setting up something like this. I'd cash app them if I had too. I'm so done
🐐
Thank you
I bought the r\o system you have but I’m confused looking for a di filter ? Can’t I use it strait out of the box ?
Yap you can use it without a di filter. Di filter just cleans the water a little bit more after the 5 stage but 100% your fine without it.
vick sarkis Can you send me a link for the di filter for that model and how much length for the return 3/4 hose from the return connection?
Here is a link to a di filter u can purchase from amazon ( amzn.to/2RqGXQF )
for the length of the hose i would say get about 16 to 20 feet and u can cut it to your length. the tent is 8ft inside and if your reservoir outside like mine then a few more feet for the outside , thats why i suggest u get a bit longer so u can cut it.
Thanks. With this system how low does the Ppms drop?
Good question. I actually used the lucas formula for my 2 grows and it worked out great. Now, Lucas formula recommends using 8ml micro and 16ml bloom from general hydroponics for every gallon of water and nothing else. Starting off my ppm @500 scale was usually about 1000 to 1200 and they would consume about 100 ppm a day, I knew this since my top off was just water and i can see the ppm drop daily. I usually would wait about 3 days and then do an about 20 to 30% top off, meaning like say 2ml micro and 4ml bloom per gallon and bring the ppm's back up until the 7th day and do a water change with new nutrients. I have also used calmag with my regular nutrients. Hope this helps.
do you have uk version?
what do you mean by UK version ?
res should be bigger with water chiller and uv light
How low do I put the top off with this exact system? Im almost done with it
1st put empty net pots in the buckets(after making the whole on the lids), now fill the system up with water, when water touches the bottom of the net pots( you should see a little bit of water in the net pots) then go and install your top off. this way you know that it will maintain that water level, from there you can always lower the top off a little when your plants have roots and your water level does not need to be that high anymore. Make sure your water level is not too much in the net pots and never covers the stem base, if your stem base is in water your plant will die. What i do , is add a little bit of Hydroton and see if its getting wet then i place my clone on that then cover it all the way up with Hydroton. so far this has worked for me. good luck.
@@f5f5quick Okay so just touching the net pots got it, hopefully it works well🙏
@@Jaychase69 Also you can and probably should top feed them for a few days until u see roots coming out the bottom of the net pots and hitting the water, I made the mistake once and didnt do that, thinking it should be ok my water level is up enough to hit them but not drown them but my plants started to die, so now I always top feed for a few days till i see roots then its on auto pilot after that. good luck Jay and happy growing.
@@f5f5quick I will do that, thank you sir ill check back when its done to see how it went.
@@f5f5quick Im trying to put that in right now and I just realized I cant fill the system until i put the top off in because my drum is outside. Is there any way you could measure how many inches it is from the top of the bucket to the top of the top off? I built this exact system pretty much
Will well water work?
depends on the ppm of the water and whats in it actually. I would not be able to give you sound advice here honestly but what you can do is get your water tested then call say general hydroponics and they can guide you from there.
you'll wind up with brown sludge on roots using well water. Hook up ro system and using great white no problems on well water of 390 ppm after ro is 17 ppm😊
Is the chiller reaaalllly necessary?
U want the water temp to be at 68f maybe up to 72 max before you get root rot they will start to turn brown it can be done if u keep ur room temps down at like 72 ur gonna pay for more a/c or buy a chiller to keep the water temp within range
3 yrs later the 5 gal totes are $11.
Total cost overall?
I would say about 300 to 400 dollars , here are the major costs. 9 buckets ( $60) 2" pvc ( $20) tubing ($40) 17 bulkheads ( $100) water pump ($40)
What the spacing between the buckets with pvc?
I dont remember anymore honestly since i now have a full grow room but i would suggest you get the buckets, line them up in the tent and measure that way. u can probably fit more buckets if u wanted to. cheers and happy growing
hey man for lites check out SonoFarm LED,meanwell drivers Samsung,and a heatsink thats almost twice as thick as Spider Farms Telling Pauly BUds sent ya,oh five year warranty,quantum boards which got and full coverage bar lighting,check they out.
I now mostly use HLG lights, like the 650r and the diablo scorpion, amazing lights in my opinion. maybe on my next build i will try those out. cheers and thanks for the advice.
No lie, this looks dope!! However, these plants don't need all these thousand dollars system to produce. Just grab some good genetics and a bag of fox farm soil and your good to go. A pair of Levi's will keep me warm the same as a pair of $2000 Gucci jeans.
HaHa well said Ace, however, the point of the video was to show that you dont need a few thousand dollar hydroponics system, and that you can build it yourself for the fraction of the cost. Now true, u can grow them in soil, but hydroponics has its own upsides that people choose to go for, example, I never buy soil, i dont use quarter of the nutrients people use with soil. and it grows like a monster due to the constant nutrient and water availability . The list of positives goes on but there are drawbacks just like in anything. I guess it comes down to personal choice. and 1 last thing. Since i have auto top off, i can go on a trip for 7 to 10 days and not worry about my plants Whatsoever !
Watch out bro, your address can be seen at the amazon pages.
Pm me for Led quantum board ir and uv. Great job mate.
Elon musk is that you?
:) :)
any link for the buckets ?
oh sorry no link but i bought them from my local lowes.
Where’s the buckets
If your asking me where to buy the buckets the answer is lowes. i got them from there, not sure where else they sell them.
@@f5f5quick damn they don’t sell square ones anywhere in stores near me
It’s too bad. Those systems are way overpriced. They want like four grand for that one probably not even $200 worth of material and labor.
naah. nice try tho.