Heat the stud up till it's hot. Melt paraffin wax at the base of the stud. Let it cool down until you can touch it. Use 2 nuts or a stud extractor and it should come out easily no matter how stuck it was. Haven't broken off a stud or bolt in years using this method. Got the tip from a guy that restores old cars to showroom condition.
If you can find an old Vee blade for it makes cleaning old fence rows a breeze, I've still got an old Allis Chalmers HD20 with a kg blade which works good buy not as good as a Vee blade, the only advantage to a KG blade is you can split with the stinger, cut off at the ground and pile up or windrow, it's impossible to pile up with a Vee blade, friend of mine has an old 9g with a Vee Blade, he cleared an old drainage ditch out that had filled in with deposit and grown up in trees, he made a pass on each side and rolled the trees out the way, he then put the stinger down in the center of the ditch and took off, not only did it reshape the ditch but the freshly cut stumps were rolling out both sides, just an example when you have enough power what you can do. On that old 9 it's got a power shift I never looked but I bet top RPM is under 1500 just a fast idle the torque does the rest!!
Excellent video Brandon :) yes take lots hard work get studs out also sometimes break off and be drill out or cap to impact gun off ! When put new studs use some Anti Seize on threads plus bolt manifold it save trouble for years ahead and remember my one elder in mechanics said before anti seized used Bakeing Soda then went Vaseline after that used Grease or 80w90 differential fluid on threads plus bolts then Anti Seize come out said horray some one made some things for mechanic finally Lol!
We checked them they are all good I should probably put new ones in it but who knows these old ones might be better than the new replacements now days in less we found some old stock
Great job on those studs! I have to check my tool box. I may have some long stud extractors for you. They grip the whole stud and lessen the breaking of them. I really look forward to seeing this out pushing. Plus it’ll be fun watching Dad Strength work his magic too
Just a point about the stud holes being a 1/4 inch deeper on the one head, you can see the two core plugs where the heads join are different depths two. One sits deeper than the other, or certainly looks that way from the camera angle. It does seem odd they are different. Looks like this will turn into a nice series off videos. Thanks guys
I'm pretty sure the front head is OEM the back head is odd its got a strange casting mark on the other side that I found so the definitely are different....thank you!
that is a unique method with paraffin wax! the wax acts as a lubricant, then it is only to brake it free. it must wet out the threads. that Co. for the tap & dies is one of the best out there. well made and tight tolerances. good luck with the D8 dozer.
So by heating the stud, or welding a broken bolt, you heat the stud but it is confined by relatively unheated iron, which results in the stud getting compressed by a couple thousandths breaking the rust bond.
@@dirtgrainsteel BTW, while most of these low track machines went out of production in the 70s they kept making the chassis as sideboom pipe layers, there is a guy just south of Kingman Kansas that is parting out a bunch of those. I can't remember his name at the moment, I don't know if they will let me drop a link for his location here.
It is good to know younger generations appreciate quality tools produced by manufacturers that have survived from a time when quality and the durability that a good reputation guarantees were a norm rather than an exception. Besides a strong preference for quality tools and equipment I hope I share with most folks who like to work on old equipment. I much prefer to pay more for something made in any technologically sophisticated country except communist China if only to avoid contributing to the economy of an oppressive, aggressive, environmentally unscrupulous and irresponsible dictatorship that is an enemy of democracy. On that note I recently did a bit of internet research regarding ultimate corporate ownership for a quality brand of tools long associated with the US. The relevant products are famous for their characteristic red color but apparently the parent company which currently own that brand is based in Hong Kong, therefore revenue gained by it is quite likely benefiting the economy of communist China.
When using air impact tools there are a couple of things you should consider. First please wear eye protection and you should also consider eye plugs. My brother was a heavy duty mechanic for his whole working career and ended up with significant hearing issues as he aged. But your ears and eyes.
I've gotten lots of the out by welding a nut on them and I've twisted alot of nuts off and for some reason I just had a gut feeling this one was going to need to be drilled out
Get the dimensions and check with ARP for replacements. They make very tough fastners that are good are high intensity racing and should be good for a Cat engine.
What are you going to do with that exhaust port face that seems to be seriously erroded away. Are you just going to use high temp silicone sealer on both sides of the exhaust gasket. Harborfreight has sets of drill stop rings for cheap.
Great video!! I have a D8H 46A26253. What serial number is your tractor? I have the same issue with rail, pads and segments. Be interested in what you find on solution. Thx for sharing..
Yeah Clint is awesome. He has a heart of gold. God bless
Glad Clint from C&C was able to help you guys out on the dozer repair/overhaul.
Old Clients the Man at C&C for sure...Love these old Dozers. Back when Dozers pushed...Great job on it..
Yes he's is!..Thank you!!
Heat the stud up till it's hot. Melt paraffin wax at the base of the stud. Let it cool down until you can touch it. Use 2 nuts or a stud extractor and it should come out easily no matter how stuck it was. Haven't broken off a stud or bolt in years using this method. Got the tip from a guy that restores old cars to showroom condition.
I need to try this sometime I never have
Heat is all you need. There isn't a lubricant on the market that makes one bit of difference.
Paraffin really got to try that one thanks
You guys know people have fully debunked this right... Some even went through the trouble of recording their findings....
Nice job of extracting the broken stud, have done that many times myself and they can be a bear sometimes, look forward to seeing it running.
Great video.
Clints a good dude . Cant wait to see the ole kitty purr
Yes he is! I've had a few random questions I text him and he always has a answer
Brandon you made a patient man video great job great video thanks
If you can find an old Vee blade for it makes cleaning old fence rows a breeze, I've still got an old Allis Chalmers HD20 with a kg blade which works good buy not as good as a Vee blade, the only advantage to a KG blade is you can split with the stinger, cut off at the ground and pile up or windrow, it's impossible to pile up with a Vee blade, friend of mine has an old 9g with a Vee Blade, he cleared an old drainage ditch out that had filled in with deposit and grown up in trees, he made a pass on each side and rolled the trees out the way, he then put the stinger down in the center of the ditch and took off, not only did it reshape the ditch but the freshly cut stumps were rolling out both sides, just an example when you have enough power what you can do. On that old 9 it's got a power shift I never looked but I bet top RPM is under 1500 just a fast idle the torque does the rest!!
Real good work Brandon.
It's good to listen to your thought process.
Ed from Chicago 🙂
Yay, kitty!
Left twist drill bits work good for removing broken studs
Try picking up a set of left hand drill bits for drilling out broken bolts when the bit grabs the bolt it may just remove it
I've got a set they just don't cut very good I need to find a better set
Long cycle time at work today means catching up on some videos great stuff Brandon
Thank you!
Them guys at c&c are good guys and know there stuff 👌🤘🤘🤘🤘
Excellent video Brandon :) yes take lots hard work get studs out also sometimes break off and be drill out or cap to impact gun off ! When put new studs use some Anti Seize on threads plus bolt manifold it save trouble for years ahead and remember my one elder in mechanics said before anti seized used Bakeing Soda then went Vaseline after that used Grease or 80w90 differential fluid on threads plus bolts then Anti Seize come out said horray some one made some things for mechanic finally Lol!
Good time to check/replace the glow plugs. Check the tips, they can get bad and break off and do damage.
We checked them they are all good I should probably put new ones in it but who knows these old ones might be better than the new replacements now days in less we found some old stock
@@dirtgrainsteel Ok
Be sure and video all the work you do on the dozer. Thanks, I enjoy all your videos and watch them.
Hi all you could try some left handed drill bits they work great and I use them all the time
I need to get a good set I have some cheap ones but they don't work the best
Great job on those studs! I have to check my tool box. I may have some long stud extractors for you. They grip the whole stud and lessen the breaking of them. I really look forward to seeing this out pushing. Plus it’ll be fun watching Dad Strength work his magic too
I don't think I've ever seen long ones I would be interested to see them! Thank you!
Ask tim gentry from Gentry and sons trucking channel about shop fires.
Just a point about the stud holes being a 1/4 inch deeper on the one head, you can see the two core plugs where the heads join are different depths two. One sits deeper than the other, or certainly looks that way from the camera angle. It does seem odd they are different. Looks like this will turn into a nice series off videos. Thanks guys
I'm pretty sure the front head is OEM the back head is odd its got a strange casting mark on the other side that I found so the definitely are different....thank you!
I've heard of using a left handed drill bit works too
When you break a drill bit or a tap, you’ll never drill out a broke stud/bolt again. Weld a nut and be done with it.
Dark thread cutting oil when drilling and slower speed
Yeah I need to get me a bottle of it for the big shop that's what I use at my home shop
that is a unique method with paraffin wax! the wax acts as a lubricant, then it is
only to brake it free. it must wet out the threads. that Co. for the tap & dies is one
of the best out there. well made and tight tolerances. good luck with the D8 dozer.
So by heating the stud, or welding a broken bolt, you heat the stud but it is confined by relatively unheated iron, which results in the stud getting compressed by a couple thousandths breaking the rust bond.
Yes exactly or that's how it should go
@@dirtgrainsteel "thermal persuasion"
@@dirtgrainsteel BTW, while most of these low track machines went out of production in the 70s they kept making the chassis as sideboom pipe layers, there is a guy just south of Kingman Kansas that is parting out a bunch of those. I can't remember his name at the moment, I don't know if they will let me drop a link for his location here.
JV7P+XHQ Kingman, Kansas
It is good to know younger generations appreciate quality tools produced by manufacturers that have survived from a time when quality and the durability that a good reputation guarantees were a norm rather than an exception.
Besides a strong preference for quality tools and equipment I hope I share with most folks who like to work on old equipment.
I much prefer to pay more for something made in any technologically sophisticated country except communist China if only to avoid contributing to the economy of an oppressive, aggressive, environmentally unscrupulous and irresponsible dictatorship that is an enemy of democracy.
On that note I recently did a bit of internet research regarding ultimate corporate ownership for a quality brand of tools long associated with the US.
The relevant products are famous for their characteristic red color but apparently the parent company which currently own that brand is based in Hong Kong, therefore revenue gained by it is quite likely benefiting the economy of communist China.
What’s funny is that they’re 11 miles from me and I had no idea that they were big youtube stars for the longest time 😂
When using air impact tools there are a couple of things you should consider. First please wear eye protection and you should also consider eye plugs. My brother was a heavy duty mechanic for his whole working career and ended up with significant hearing issues as he aged. But your ears and eyes.
Seems like it would have been a whole lot easier to weld a nut on that broken stud. Wouldn't even have to take the intake manifold off..
I've gotten lots of the out by welding a nut on them and I've twisted alot of nuts off and for some reason I just had a gut feeling this one was going to need to be drilled out
@@dirtgrainsteelI found letting the welded nut cool completely then reheating the surrounding metal improves sucess quite a bit for stubborn ones
Factory cat bolts and studs are grade 8 strength.
The replacements I got for it are OEM Caterpillar
Get the dimensions and check with ARP for replacements. They make very tough fastners that are good are high intensity racing and should be good for a Cat engine.
Ever had any luck with using left handed drill bits to remove broken studs? Ive heard it works but hadnt tried it.
maybe the heads were finished on 2 different machines when built or one was remanufactured and and retaped the holes to be sure the threads were good
you gonna have one fine machine when done those ol cat,s never give up if maintained these new junk wont last like those ol babies
I would have tried welding a nut on that stud before drilling it.
It's a money pit..
😂😂😂😘😂
What are you going to do with that exhaust port face that seems to be seriously erroded away. Are you just going to use high temp silicone sealer on both sides of the exhaust gasket.
Harborfreight has sets of drill stop rings for cheap.
Great job what brand of drill bits are you useing they seem to cut good on those studs
Them are Hertel brand is what the say on them I got them at a fleamarkt one time from a traveling tool guy I just bought a few of each size
Great video!! I have a D8H 46A26253. What serial number is your tractor? I have the same issue with rail, pads and segments. Be interested in what you find on solution. Thx for sharing..
My dad burnt his D8 cat .
Couldn't you just leave that stud in ?
Threads were really bad on most of them including this one
An induction heater works best
I've been looking at them but I'm not sure which one is the best to buy