I was out on that giant day in the 69 swell when Nuuhiva and a couple other guys were out. I jumped off the seawall right into the slamming wave and rode the backwash out and barely made it during a lull between sets. At first I just paddled into the lineup and over to the point till I saw a guy waving at me to hurry up and get outside in the direction of the oil piers. Then a set started coming in. It was huge. The first waves were at least triple overhead and I barely made it over them but then I had to really scramble much further outside because the bigger waves of the set were charging in and they were just awesome. I was exhausted ~ My arms were like rubber bands but I didn't stop paddling. I was on a homemade 7 foot 6 inch~ wide tail with a narrow fin that hummed everytime I turned. I had to rest for at least a half hour after paddling out and the sets just got bigger and bigger and we all paddled out again and again each time they came. Some said that it was 20 feet. I watched a guy take off on a set wave in a late takeoff and when he hit the bottom looking good at first ~ His board broke from the impact. He went through it like nothing. I was mid way in the lineup and nobody was out at the indicator. I got about 4 waves that day and the guys who gave me a ride would not go out and they said they saw that guy's board get destroyed on the sea wall. The waves were washing over the highway and they had to move the van to safety to the opposite side of the highway. My first big wave day. I think I was 17.
We would go there in the late 60s to clam and get mussels at low tide. I remember watching the surfers in awe. Later on, I started surfing it and one night stands out. I was driving back to college (San Diego State, 75) and it was a full moon. Must have been the fall and as we made the turn, we could see perfect 4-6 foot lines with an offshore. The house at the bottom of the cove had a spotlight back then on the water. We pulled over on 101, and went out. It was fantastic, surfed until about midnight all by ourselves. Magic.
Some of my older surfer friends told the stories of ethe once a century swells of '69 in Huntington Beach... I was just getting into it so... and Surfer Magazine
The immortal Bob Cooper lives today on the NSW North Coast, Australia. Still up at Coffs Harbour, I believe ? Man .. this entire clip sure brings back some great memories ... fantastic ...
The 'Con......I remember the OG's with their pot bellies and their long white beards ripping on a broken 1/2 a long board in the early 1970's. No cords and dive suits. Those we're the Days My Friend.
I owned a few myself. This past week in Oxnard I saw two different people with Liddles. One was a 6 foot egg, and the other was 6’10”. Weird. Not a decent point break around here for miles lol
It is @ Whitenacho. Thank you very much. I wrote it for the “ high frequency tribe”. They are the subscriber base to Malibu surfer/RUclipsr, Hamish Patterson, aka “ the Illusion” RUclips channel. Check it out sometime.
Is this available on DVD? I recall seeing Jamie, at Vintage Board Collector meets, and he had an online presence. If anyone has an extra copy... I would be stoked to purchase!
..he was an asshole and, yes, I was one of the kooks he used to shove around at Malibu. Great surfer but just an annoying butt plug who could bring down a really nice day at State Street, Trancas, Malibu, Latigo, and all points North. Want to know the definition of "bummer"? Imagine you're surfing Secos (Leo Carillo) on a warm day with a slight Santa Ana blowing out of the canyon and the waves are just perfect. Everyone takes their turn from behind the big rock and having a grand old time. Then this dickwad shows up and drops into every wave he can; 100% distilled selfish entitlement. I saw him clean out Secos one day like that because he thought his shit did not stink. Glad he's dead!
I'm proud to say I've surfed Rincon mor ethan the guy who taught me to surf, who had a 20 years or so head start on me, lol. Some people just have more wanderlust I guess.
Michael Peterson is "The Legend" in the surfing World. Terry Fitzgerald and Michael Peterson. Peter Townend. Simon Anderson. Dick Brewer. Jerry Lopez. Rory Russel. These are some of my favorite people in the surfing world.
@@fernandomaron87 Pardon me. No disrespect to the Duke. MP is IN FACT a Legend amongst Modern Surfers and the breakout of Modern professional surfing which the Australians we're prome movers of. The Australians changed everything for better and/or for worse for native Hawaiians. And, the Australians still crank out lots of really good surfers and swimmers The origen of the 'Australian Crawl' aka Free Style aka American Crawl.
I saw a poor guy almost get killed in the El Nino's of 1997. He couldn't get out of the "Seawall Shorepound" and it was still high tide (but dropping). The poor guy paddled his ass off and got out of the jam. Otherwise the only way out would have been to drift down to La Conchita. Which probably would not have worked out as the waves were huge. (the cove was MT it was so big).
That happened to me this winter. Hectic. What is MT? I saw the cove closing out this year Jan 5 7pm 2023. It had a left bombie connecting into closout adjacent to normal takeoff. You can see the reef on soundings maps.
Michael Peterson is "The Legend" in the surfing World. Terry Fitzgerald and Michael Peterson. Peter Townend. Simon Anderson. Dick Brewer. Jerry Lopez. Rory Russel. These are some of my favorite people in the surfing world.
Is this a long story anybody that grew up in beach towns nose of the story that you can't grow up and you put your bored by the road while go to buy the road now
Dora was overrated as a surfer, and under reported as a scammer who ripped off his friends. Skip Frye was a much better stylist in the same time period.
Развлечения
I was out on that giant day in the 69 swell when Nuuhiva and a couple other guys were out. I jumped off the seawall right into the slamming wave and rode the backwash out and barely made it during a lull between sets. At first I just paddled into the lineup and over to the point till I saw a guy waving at me to hurry up and get outside in the direction of the oil piers. Then a set started coming in. It was huge. The first waves were at least triple overhead and I barely made it over them but then I had to really scramble much further outside because the bigger waves of the set were charging in and they were just awesome. I was exhausted ~ My arms were like rubber bands but I didn't stop paddling. I was on a homemade 7 foot 6 inch~ wide tail with a narrow fin that hummed everytime I turned. I had to rest for at least a half hour after paddling out and the sets just got bigger and bigger and we all paddled out again and again each time they came. Some said that it was 20 feet. I watched a guy take off on a set wave in a late takeoff and when he hit the bottom looking good at first ~ His board broke from the impact. He went through it like nothing. I was mid way in the lineup and nobody was out at the indicator. I got about 4 waves that day and the guys who gave me a ride would not go out and they said they saw that guy's board get destroyed on the sea wall. The waves were washing over the highway and they had to move the van to safety to the opposite side of the highway. My first big wave day. I think I was 17.
I loved watching Mickey Dora surf. He was an amazing surfer. I don't care if he was difficult. I always stayed out of his way. He was legendary.
i dont get it… he looks like a mediocre longboarder in this clip
We used to ditch school -- elementary school in Summerland and hitch a ride with Jeff White to Rincon - uh 63 -- good times
wow - this is vintage surf art - love the color commentary - makes for a very special experience of a exceptional era - well done !
"Embryonic Journey"...Jorma Kaukonen playing on the Airplane record Surrealistic Pillow...classic
The song is "Embryonic Journey" by Jefferson Airplane.
We would go there in the late 60s to clam and get mussels at low tide. I remember watching the surfers in awe. Later on, I started surfing it and one night stands out. I was driving back to college (San Diego State, 75) and it was a full moon. Must have been the fall and as we made the turn, we could see perfect 4-6 foot lines with an offshore. The house at the bottom of the cove had a spotlight back then on the water. We pulled over on 101, and went out. It was fantastic, surfed until about midnight all by ourselves. Magic.
Unforgettable kind of thing
Peak experience. I'm glad you got to live that. I've had em, too.
Dora was the king of surfing back in the day.
An incredible athlete. So much a part of the 60s. He was always at Malibu, mid-Sixties. I was lucky to have been around to watch him surf.
COuldn't have run over you had you not taken off in front of him. Very definition of kook.
William Phinizy Yea, maybe so, but Kemp and the others were not Dora.
My dad took 8mm footage of him & Fain at Malibu and sure wish I had that to share here!
Jeff Ho & Wayne Inoue are so smooth and stylish!
Been coming back to this video for, oh, 10 years or so.
Me and this video have been through a lot together.
Funny how certain videos stay with you
Thanks so much for this. ....
Before the wavejets and cheeseball kooks, there was this...
"dora alone with his thoughts" is a scary proposition
Dora’s ashes were scattered off a trail in the Montecito hills, just minutes from this fabled point
That poor trail. I wish I could send it a sympathy card.
Mahalo Nui for sharing this treasure of a video along with perfect commentary
Excellent narration. Truly captures the era. I can smell the buds.
Best day I have ever surfed was at Rincon,about this size.Been all over the world,only got dialed into the perfect wave once,here at RINCON.
Dora "da Cat".....R.I.P. Miki !
One of the best waves I had ever surfed ,& I have been to Mexico Hawaii-Malibu 2nd reef was Rincon 1 early morning during a big north swell.
All I can say is fusk yes you guys were heavy ! nice video, commentary and surfing soul...
Some of my older surfer friends told the stories of ethe once a century swells of '69 in Huntington Beach... I was just getting into it so... and Surfer Magazine
Great narration and a lot of experience and history to back it up.
Excellent footage!
The good old days at Rincon....thank you Kevin Law..
great footage
Excellent! Thanks
I got a hold of some classic Hal Jepson stuff he signed for me before he died
So cool. Really captures the era. All peace and love....yeah, right.....
Look up footage of. Dec. 25, 2000. Exhilarating and terrifying all at once especially on a 7'-8" fun shape. Exploding cannons!
The immortal Bob Cooper lives today on the NSW North Coast, Australia. Still up at Coffs Harbour, I believe ? Man .. this entire clip sure brings back some great memories ... fantastic ...
i remember him riding Malibu on that rainbow pigmented board, good guy.
The 'Con......I remember the OG's with their pot bellies and their
long white beards ripping on a broken 1/2 a long board in the early 1970's.
No cords and dive suits. Those we're the Days My Friend.
In a world of slaves, anybody who's free looks crazy.
never truer than in lockdown ;)
muchly enjoyed
Wayne Innoya I spent time on the north shore surfing with him. Good surfer ping pong player and a great guy
I lived on Bates Road from 1974 to 1979 I rode nothing but Greg Liddle eggs.
I owned a few myself. This past week in Oxnard I saw two different people with Liddles. One was a 6 foot egg, and the other was 6’10”. Weird. Not a decent point break around here for miles lol
@@calfolk7381 Yeah but ya have some really good beach breaks!
Whitenacho you know it!
@@calfolk7381 Hey is that your song "Illusions" ? It's pretty darn good!
It is @ Whitenacho. Thank you very much. I wrote it for the “ high frequency tribe”. They are the subscriber base to Malibu surfer/RUclipsr, Hamish Patterson, aka “ the Illusion” RUclips channel. Check it out sometime.
Amazing
I can’t imagine how relatively empty these line ups were
Dora you lived the life
The song at 02:20 is "On With The Show" by The Rolling Stones.
More sand like everywhere back then.
Is this available on DVD? I recall seeing Jamie, at Vintage Board Collector meets, and he had an online presence. If anyone has an extra copy... I would be stoked to purchase!
Dora was groovy man that’s an ace memory
..he was an asshole and, yes, I was one of the kooks he used to shove around at Malibu. Great surfer but just an annoying butt plug who could bring down a really nice day at State Street, Trancas, Malibu, Latigo, and all points North. Want to know the definition of "bummer"? Imagine you're surfing Secos (Leo Carillo) on a warm day with a slight Santa Ana blowing out of the canyon and the waves are just perfect. Everyone takes their turn from behind the big rock and having a grand old time. Then this dickwad shows up and drops into every wave he can; 100% distilled selfish entitlement. I saw him clean out Secos one day like that because he thought his shit did not stink.
Glad he's dead!
I watched this video because my grandma Dora rincon rest in peace grandma
rip
I'm proud to say I've surfed Rincon mor ethan the guy who taught me to surf, who had a 20 years or so head start on me, lol. Some people just have more wanderlust I guess.
Moran Caru from the Tijuana slew. Funny!
Jeff Ho -- the Godfather of Dogtown!!!
Michael Peterson is "The Legend" in the surfing World.
Terry Fitzgerald and Michael Peterson. Peter Townend.
Simon Anderson. Dick Brewer. Jerry Lopez. Rory Russel.
These are some of my favorite people in the surfing world.
Sorry, but Duke Kahanamoku is "The Legend", i love MP, but THE legendary surfer, that was Duke.
@@fernandomaron87 Pardon me.
No disrespect to the Duke.
MP is IN FACT a Legend amongst Modern Surfers and the breakout of Modern professional surfing which the Australians we're prome movers of. The Australians changed everything for better and/or for worse for native Hawaiians.
And, the Australians still crank out lots of really good surfers and swimmers The origen of the 'Australian Crawl' aka Free Style aka American Crawl.
I have to give tribute to David Nuuhiwa. One of the most graceful and beautiful surfers to watch of all time. He was ballet on water!!!
@@fernandomaron87 sorry but the duke was a kook. Did NOT bring surfing to Australia. Surfed a nothing beach and claimed it… no way
Embryonic Journey....Jefferson Airplane and Hot Tuna....Jorma Kaukonen
Where can I find the rest of this?!?
@ChessieSystemE645
Embryonic Journey by Jefferson Airplane (played by Jorma Kaukonen)
Backyard dock. Straight down
Man ,the California coast line is a thing of extreme beauty but those oil platforms are horrendous.😥
Anyone know where to find more old footage of Jeff ho?
Anyone know where the full film is?
I saw a poor guy almost get killed in the El Nino's of 1997. He couldn't get out of the "Seawall Shorepound" and it was still high tide (but dropping). The poor guy paddled his ass off and got out of the jam. Otherwise the only way out would have been to drift down to La Conchita. Which probably would not have worked out as the waves were huge. (the cove was MT it was so big).
That happened to me this winter. Hectic. What is MT? I saw the cove closing out this year Jan 5 7pm 2023. It had a left bombie connecting into closout adjacent to normal takeoff. You can see the reef on soundings maps.
Merangue Caroo from the Tijuana slew....
Whats the first song?
Hey Scott where's that old footage of Nuuhiwa on a fish at C-street?
@ChessieSystemE645 It sounds a little like Canned Heat or Country Joe & the Fish.
If you think miki was a character you should check out MP Micheal Peterson. Kirra legend with a back story straight out of a movie
Michael Peterson is "The Legend" in the surfing World.
Terry Fitzgerald and Michael Peterson. Peter Townend.
Simon Anderson. Dick Brewer. Jerry Lopez. Rory Russel.
These are some of my favorite people in the surfing world.
@ChessieSystemE645 Jefferson Airplane - Embryonic Journey
Hey will
Who's the goofy foot? he's good
@ChessieSystemE645 Jefferson Airplane i think
Surfstyle4 Think early Rod Stewart with The Faces backing him up.
Twead Coast NSW.
Is this a long story anybody that grew up in beach towns nose of the story that you can't grow up and you put your bored by the road while go to buy the road now
Could Miki Dora fight? Because he really needed to have his ass kicked.
Isn't it pronounced "ring-kon", not "rin-kon"?
Spanish, means corner. rin-con del mar is the full name
Don't see why you think it's ok to copy Scott Star's work and post it on you tube as your own, poser.
Alien Trailerpark doing him a favor to get it out there so i can watch it
POSEUR , Jeez .
Dora was overrated as a surfer, and under reported as a scammer who ripped off his friends. Skip Frye was a much better stylist in the same time period.
Shan Timothy didn’t skip rip off a lot of skate groms etc?
Edipus theory
Ugly surfing really. Beautiful waves.