Thank you for a very informative video, I seem to collect multi-meters via Christmas tree presents, could never bring myself to confess to Father Christmas I have no idea how to use them. I rely on the old screwdriver with a bulb and crocodile clip 6-24 volt auto tester. I used to use this to check and set the timing on my first car - a Triumph Herald in the early 80's. A bit limited in its use for modelling. So thank you for the walk-through- I'll have to check to see if any have a beep for ease of use!
I used to use a wee bulb wired to a 9v battery with two wires to test for continuity. I also had a tester for setting car timing that got used as well. Hours spent in a cold dark garage with a Hillman Avenger!
Hi Bill, a great, easy to follow tutorial and just what I needed to work out what's wrong with my old ringfield motor Mallard. The motor works when battery tested but not when the battery is applied to the wheels. I knew there must be some sort of connection issue but couldn't work out where. Hopefully I'll be able to sort it out now. Thanks!
Thanks Bill. I have previously used a simple bulb and wire method for continuity then a friend bought me a multimeter and I have not had a clue how to use it until now. Perhaps my layout will run better now!!
Evening Bill, what a useful video you have put on You Tube, generally I use the multi meter to check the readings of my batteries on my narrow boat, but never used it across to the modeling area. Due to (like many) have no I idea what the other settings are for! The instructions which come with a multi meter(s) are generally useless as they are over complicated to the layman.
Hi Bill, excellent video. The multi metre can be an excellent tool to have, you don’t have to be an electrician to use it. For many issues it a great help. Read the manual and instructions that come with it. Dealing with small currents on the model side. I’m thinking of having some amp meters on the layout, can the see the draw on the various controller, one meter for each controller though, thanks again for a great informative video, all best Marc
Very very good Bill. This brings clarity to an area of the hobby which up till now seemed like a black art. Now I will be able to begin the process of problem solving a number of non runners. Thanks very much for taking the time to prepare this video, it is greatly appreciated. This in combination with the track analysis should improve running on my layout. I am writing this as I watch. Cheers👍
Thank you very much for this video. Really useful. I should have known all this but sadly have forgotten over the years. I do have a multimeter but to date have only really been using it for continuity. As you suggest I have now ordered one with the sound for continuity. Excellent idea. The measuring of resistance across track joints is a must and I will now be doing this. I do solder all my track but it is surprising how the difference in Summer and Winter temperatures can cause breaks.I actually now model 0 gauge but I find no end of useful tips for servicing with your channel.....and it brings back many memories of my 00 gauge locos and layouts. Interestingly most of the motors in my locos are sealed and one cannot really get into them/take them to bits but the cleaning/oiling etc is exactly the same.
Hi Bill. I noticed in the comments section of Barrie Davis' video on 0-6-0s, that you stated you wanted a J52. Well, there's a Hornby R861 LNER J52 0-6-0T No:3980 available on the well known auction site in excellent condition for £42.50p + p&p. I did post it on Barrie's comment section but it was deleted not long afterwards. Good luck!
Yes Bill, but in what condition? In life you get what you pay for. I never had you down as a cheapskate. Put your hand in your sporran for once and prove us Sassenachs wrong about your spending.
Thank you, Bill. Very clear and concise. I've been using multimeters since I was little, but never thought to test the continuity over a fishplate! Good idea. Not keen on using cutters to 'crimp' them though, I would prefer to use pliers to avoid cutting the fishplate! Keep up the good work.
Snippers give a better pinch than pliers and are more effective when the track is ballasted I find. Just don't pinch at the actual join and don't squeeze too hard.
Thanks for a very informative video. I'm new to the hobby and like other contributors I bought a multimeter sometime ago and until now didn't know what to do with it. I've tested my track and all seems well. However, even after cleaning the track, the locos don't seem to run smoothly. I think the problem might be with the el cheapo Hornby controller and so I'm thinking of investing in the Morley Crawler, which you highlighted in one of your other videos. Thanks again for the videos.
Hi Bill, Multimeters can be an excellent tool for modellers. It’s ok for checking and testing but it’s knowing how to understand the readings when you get one, if you are looking for a reading, that is. My message to all readers: All multimeters come with instructions please read the instructions and check the examples in them. There is no doubt that it’ll enhance your understanding of how your models work.
The problem with the instructions for multimeters (at least the four I've owned) is that the instructions usually need instructions! I'm guessing more expensive ones have better instructions.
@@oobill the more expensive ones tend to use the knowledge that a electrically qualified guy would have ( being one myself ) I think it’s to limit it to peoples ability to use them without training
Very informative video. It is worth noting that the track voltage method will only work with DC as DCC will give incorrect and strange results as it is a digital pulse that is best measured and seen with an oscilloscope. DCC track continuity can be measured the same way but just ensure the track power is switched off as the multimeter may not like it and sound a bit strange, I found that out one day when I forgot my controller was on and wondered why it had a strange buzz rather than a normal beep, pressed the track power button to off and all was fine.
Remember the audible sound will go off over a wide range. So checking the screen and resistance reading as well is always a good thing. If you are looking for a low resistance double check. Audible is a good first indicator.
Update - the measuring across joints has worked a treat and has allowed me to completely resolve the problems on the track circuit which was causing problems. Many thanks indeed.
Omg. That video is such a help! I’ve had a couple of multi meters for years. As you say only cheap to buy. But never actually found out why people in the know use them. Now I do! One question, why is you layout 12v DC and yet shows 17v? Am I missing something?
Interesting, the continuity setting is for testing Diodes which for a better description is a one way switch, when testing motors etc it is always best to isolate motor windings as you could get a reading via a path that may still be connected out of sight.
Dear Sir, Great video, excellent explanations! A question: What is the commercial name of your magnetiser? I am having difficulty even in finding one similar to yours. Thanks! Cheers from Brazil!
Hi, great simplistic easy to follow tutorial, thank you. I have a problem on my dcc layout and will use my multi meter (after blowing off dust)to check continuity. Does using droppers instead of fish plates help continuity? Thanks once again. Also subscribed 👍🏼
I'm not a DCC person, but I would have thought that having droppers to every section of track will (a) avoid you relying on the fishplates for power and (b) will interfere with the continuity reading across the fishplate. (The route between two droppers is hopefully a lower resistance than through the rails!). You may be quicker checking you have voltage on each section first. (But see Rob Arnold's answer too!!)
Thank you Bill had a multi meter for years never new how to use it properly..I am a bit more educated now thank you. Love your channel....
Thank you Bill, this could have been tailor made for me - I learnt a great deal
Likewise, simple explanation and demo, very helpful.
Hi Bill, I often use a multimeter. It is great for finding broken wires and electracl shorts. A really clear and instructive video. Many thanks.
Thanks for that . I just bought one and was completely lost....Now I know how to use it . Thank you
Thank you for a very informative video, I seem to collect multi-meters via Christmas tree presents, could never bring myself to confess to Father Christmas I have no idea how to use them.
I rely on the old screwdriver with a bulb and crocodile clip 6-24 volt auto tester. I used to use this to check and set the timing on my first car - a Triumph Herald in the early 80's. A bit limited in its use for modelling.
So thank you for the walk-through- I'll have to check to see if any have a beep for ease of use!
I used to use a wee bulb wired to a 9v battery with two wires to test for continuity. I also had a tester for setting car timing that got used as well. Hours spent in a cold dark garage with a Hillman Avenger!
Nice video. Easy to follow
Hi Bill, a great, easy to follow tutorial and just what I needed to work out what's wrong with my old ringfield motor Mallard.
The motor works when battery tested but not when the battery is applied to the wheels. I knew there must be some sort of connection issue but couldn't work out where. Hopefully I'll be able to sort it out now. Thanks!
Thanks Bill. I have previously used a simple bulb and wire method for continuity then a friend bought me a multimeter and I have not had a clue how to use it until now. Perhaps my layout will run better now!!
Evening Bill, what a useful video you have put on You Tube, generally I use the multi meter to check the readings of my batteries on my narrow boat, but never used it across to the modeling area. Due to (like many) have no I idea what the other settings are for! The instructions which come with a multi meter(s) are generally useless as they are over complicated to the layman.
Hi Bill, excellent video. The multi metre can be an excellent tool to have, you don’t have to be an electrician to use it. For many issues it a great help. Read the manual and instructions that come with it. Dealing with small currents on the model side. I’m thinking of having some amp meters on the layout, can the see the draw on the various controller, one meter for each controller though, thanks again for a great informative video, all best Marc
Very very good Bill. This brings clarity to an area of the hobby which up till now seemed like a black art.
Now I will be able to begin the process of problem solving a number of non runners.
Thanks very much for taking the time to prepare this video, it is greatly appreciated.
This in combination with the track analysis should improve running on my layout.
I am writing this as I watch. Cheers👍
Cheers Charlie hope you have success.
Absolutely superb Bill thanks for pointing me in the direction of this video
Great instructions Bill
Good onya Bill ,, very handy to know whats what on a multimeter as in the test the current draw etc.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Fantastic guide. Just bought one and wanted simple instructions.
Thank you very much for this video. Really useful. I should have known all this but sadly have forgotten over the years. I do have a multimeter but to date have only really been using it for continuity. As you suggest I have now ordered one with the sound for continuity. Excellent idea. The measuring of resistance across track joints is a must and I will now be doing this. I do solder all my track but it is surprising how the difference in Summer and Winter temperatures can cause breaks.I actually now model 0 gauge but I find no end of useful tips for servicing with your channel.....and it brings back many memories of my 00 gauge locos and layouts. Interestingly most of the motors in my locos are sealed and one cannot really get into them/take them to bits but the cleaning/oiling etc is exactly the same.
Hi Bill.
I noticed in the comments section of Barrie Davis' video on 0-6-0s, that you stated you wanted a J52. Well, there's a Hornby R861 LNER J52 0-6-0T No:3980 available on the well known auction site in excellent condition for £42.50p + p&p. I did post it on Barrie's comment section but it was deleted not long afterwards. Good luck!
£42.50p + p&p?? I'll get one cheaper than that just wait and see... ;)
Yes Bill, but in what condition? In life you get what you pay for. I never had you down as a cheapskate. Put your hand in your sporran for once and prove us Sassenachs wrong about your spending.
Great video Bill. Thanks for your tutorial and I've now ordered the same multimeter from Amazon.
Thank you, Bill. Very clear and concise. I've been using multimeters since I was little, but never thought to test the continuity over a fishplate! Good idea. Not keen on using cutters to 'crimp' them though, I would prefer to use pliers to avoid cutting the fishplate! Keep up the good work.
Snippers give a better pinch than pliers and are more effective when the track is ballasted I find. Just don't pinch at the actual join and don't squeeze too hard.
Thanks for a very informative video. I'm new to the hobby and like other contributors I bought a multimeter sometime ago and until now didn't know what to do with it. I've tested my track and all seems well. However, even after cleaning the track, the locos don't seem to run smoothly. I think the problem might be with the el cheapo Hornby controller and so I'm thinking of investing in the Morley Crawler, which you highlighted in one of your other videos. Thanks again for the videos.
Hi Bill, Multimeters can be an excellent tool for modellers. It’s ok for checking and testing but it’s knowing how to understand the readings when you get one, if you are looking for a reading, that is. My message to all readers: All multimeters come with instructions please read the instructions and check the examples in them. There is no doubt that it’ll enhance your understanding of how your models work.
The problem with the instructions for multimeters (at least the four I've owned) is that the instructions usually need instructions! I'm guessing more expensive ones have better instructions.
@@oobill the more expensive ones tend to use the knowledge that a electrically qualified guy would have ( being one myself ) I think it’s to limit it to peoples ability to use them without training
Excellent, I got one for Xmas ,just to play with. Now I might have a use for it.
Very nice job
Good clear and instructive video, thanks Bill.
Very informative video. It is worth noting that the track voltage method will only work with DC as DCC will give incorrect and strange results as it is a digital pulse that is best measured and seen with an oscilloscope. DCC track continuity can be measured the same way but just ensure the track power is switched off as the multimeter may not like it and sound a bit strange, I found that out one day when I forgot my controller was on and wondered why it had a strange buzz rather than a normal beep, pressed the track power button to off and all was fine.
Remember the audible sound will go off over a wide range. So checking the screen and resistance reading as well is always a good thing. If you are looking for a low resistance double check. Audible is a good first indicator.
Very useful. Good for repairing points too.
Update - the measuring across joints has worked a treat and has allowed me to completely resolve the problems on the track circuit which was causing problems. Many thanks indeed.
So simple and so clear. Thank you, thank you, thank you
great job bill
Omg. That video is such a help! I’ve had a couple of multi meters for years. As you say only cheap to buy. But never actually found out why people in the know use them. Now I do! One question, why is you layout 12v DC and yet shows 17v? Am I missing something?
Brilliant video Bill.
Very clear explanation and just what I needed. I can.now get my one out of it wrapping 😀
Started out my working life using an Avo standard 8. Things have moved on a lot in the last 45 years.
I’ve got the exact same multimeter. Easily the best money I ever spent.
Thanks, Bill. Very useful video. And a Happy New Year!
Nice video you done for 2022.Hope there more to come.
Another great video
Really useful and clearly explained, thanks
Very very helpful Bill thanks for sharing this
Interesting, the continuity setting is for testing Diodes which for a better description is a one way switch, when testing motors etc it is always best to isolate motor windings as you could get a reading via a path that may still be connected out of sight.
that was brilliant i now know what to do with my multimeter
Brilliant video
Brilliant video and very informative 👍
Excellent. Thank you.
very helpful - thank you!
I assume if when testing for continuity I would get some kind of numbers coming up if I don’t have audio ?
Dear Sir,
Great video, excellent explanations!
A question: What is the commercial name of your magnetiser? I am having difficulty even in finding one similar to yours. Thanks!
Cheers from Brazil!
Amazing Bill, over 1.3k views 👍
Hi, great simplistic easy to follow tutorial, thank you. I have a problem on my dcc layout and will use my multi meter (after blowing off dust)to check continuity. Does using droppers instead of fish plates help continuity? Thanks once again. Also subscribed 👍🏼
I'm not a DCC person, but I would have thought that having droppers to every section of track will (a) avoid you relying on the fishplates for power and (b) will interfere with the continuity reading across the fishplate. (The route between two droppers is hopefully a lower resistance than through the rails!). You may be quicker checking you have voltage on each section first. (But see Rob Arnold's answer too!!)
First turn your multimeter on. Also ensure a known good working battery is in the multimeter.
Thanks for sharing this video, very useful and understanding of the multi meter, time to get mine out now, J