FYI, OEMS use a Teflon / PTFE insulation on phase wires. It why it’s so thin compared to silicon. Motors hit 100c which is why heat shrink is a poor idea. Kapton tape is your friend, as is die grinding burs on axle passage. One can use wire “braid” sheathing to draw the wires through the axle hole. Halls and thermistor are logic current, so can be far thinner gauge. Lastly, one puts the logic wires in the gaps between the thick phase wires. Look into Motorsport harnesses
Ah, didn't know you could get teflon wires. Perhaps save that for another motor, but given that heatshrink doesn't activate till at least 150C and the previous wire was PVC the temp can't be that much of an issue with ferrofluid and hubsinks I'm guessing? Cheers for the tips tho 👍
my motor hall harness got 5 wires but on controller side i have 6 wires with white wire as extra ... how can i tell if its a temp sensor or what else could it be plz help
I use the QS205 and I noticed that the brake disc bolts or something has rubbed away the gauze sleeve and half the plastic insulation from one of the phase wires, i'm quite surprised by discovering this, I guess I didn't secure it properly in a suitable position. The process you went through to replace the wires seems so difficult ! I hope I can get away with just covering the bare wire with glue to replace the missing plastic wire insulation. My cheap 1500w hub had a metal spring thing that protected the wire from damage. I was only supposed to be changing a punctured tyre and noticed a few big problems !
Yep if the wire isn't pulled out the way, it will likely get caught on the rotor bolts as they stick out. Be VERY careful to insulate the bare metal properly if you're not replacing the wires as if they touch it will certainly take out the controller and let off some sparks! Properly speaking the motor should be rewired but I know it's a pain :)
what causes these to go bad? using your video and a few others i was able to determine my yellow wire hall sensor was bad. the other day i ran 95volts through my controller just to see what happens and it didnt like it so i backed it down to 85 and all was good again, until tonight on the trail. shreading on a dirt trail in the complete dark after work all of a sudden the motor sounded like it was grinding if i applied to much throttle over 10 amps
If you run the motor on a bad sensor, I expect it could damage the controller as well. I'm no expert but the grinding is probably either a bad bearing or faulty controller?
Uphills and on dirt mud trails sometimes even on rain high speeds can cause bearing damages due to struggling going hard and yes the yellow wire is first burning on the connection maybe even damage sensor
The ones I used and from what I can gather from other guides are bipolar. I'm not sure if it would matter as I'm guessing all the magnets are orientated the same way around the hub but could be wrong so stick with bipolar. 👍
someone once asked in a video why is the wheel stiff when phase is shorted , i assume its because turning the wheel generates output current to cause resistance ?
I used 8AWG for the phase wires and or 8000w would strongly recommend lugs directly to the controller rather than choc blocks as they have much higher contact resistances and could get very hot or even catch fire.
Hello sir I have a 6 wire motor and 1 hall connection... When i connect the 3 wires of motor from the controller then with the load starting torque is zero and the main wire of the motor is heat...... I also connected the 2 controllers with the motor but the problem is the same.....
hey i got a question for ya. i took my motor apart to rewire it and like an idiot i did it while i was tired and never took pics. now it would be pretty simple if it was just hall wires connected to a pcb to sensor but my setup has no pcb for the sensors. its straight twisted wire and ghetto i couldnt believe it when i opened it up but im pretty sure its not connected correctly. i was wondering if u knew if there was a video i could just take a look at to see the wire placement for non pcb board hall sensors.
I replaced 2 hallsensors that was bad, but for some reason it keeps blowing up. I used a tester to check if hall sensors are toggling before putting power( it does). I also used same controller on a different motor and it works. Any help will be appreciated.
Hi ! I recently bought a wheel of this type, I did everything as you did. But the wheel turns in the opposite direction. What do you suggest I do with it? Thx G.
White one is most likely the temperature sensor output and blue one is a phase wire. Watch what I did and that's how I managed to get mine done at home and I am no expert - first time here!
@@EverythingEbikeChannel oh mate thank god its all fixed just soldered the cables after i chopped the wire and pulled it back into the hub thanks to the manufacturer for offering such vast wires
A generic 10k NTC one but haven't got it working with the sabvoton yet. It needs to be part of a voltage divider but haven't had a chance to fiddle around with values yet
The sensor I installed here didn't work, it showed 130˚ all the time. I need to get a PTC thermistor and 22kΩ potentiometer to get it to work I believe. The sabvoton is very sensitive to changes in voltage from the sensor so there is only a range of about 0.25-0.5v.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel the sabvoton manual suggests a kty83-122. However these are discontinued so an alternative is the kty81-122. I have ordered one and now looking into wiring. Are you 100% sure the sabvoton needs a voltage signal return for temp sensor? I was thinking for the kty sensor it maybe just needs a resistance to ground reading and the controller interprets this into a temperature. So basically wiring white sabvoton to kty leg, then second leg to ground. It’s really hard to find any info from siacosys
copper wires have 40 percent better electrical transmission through them, less resistence actually, so wires 40 percent thinner toi do the same job as those big alumiminum u struggle with
fantastic video, but i would very much like you to tell whats the recistance between phase wires ....if any ? my ebike is fucked, and as far as im guessing there shouldnt be any connection between the phase wires correct ? i took my motor out as you and meassured the ressistance between phase wires and beeeeep they are all connected ! they shouldnt be right ? thanks for the awesome video
Yeah your multimeter will beep when you connect it between any 2 as they're essentially loops of wire connected together but with a tiny bit or resistance. Normally the resistance should be between 30-200mΩ, anything over that could suggest the phase wires are burned out but the larger the motor the higher the resistance so measure it the post back here.
It's a generic 10 ton hydraulic crimp off ebay. If you look them up there are loads around the £30 mark that come with all the dies for different size crimps.
Great video. Question. My ebike works fine, but when I do the motor phase wire test and turn wheel (backwards) for resistance I don't get any but motor works fine and hall sensors work fine. This is not normal but it hasn't caused problems. And ideas why? /bklyn 👑
Nice job What model temperature sensor and do u know where can I get pls? Did u use automotive silicon on the side plate to seal and waterproof the hub? That would be great help
Just added the link to the description, they are generic 1kΩ thermistors as that is the same value as the KTY83-122 that comes in most hub motors. I haven't actually tested it with the sabvoton so don't know if the extra PCB I added is wired up correctly with the polarity and voltage divider. And yes, I will be using the silicone to seal it once I've added ferrofluid at a later date.
@@EverythingEbikeChannelhi did u test temperature sensor with display? where do u have to solder the other pin of temperature sensor as only one wire comes of the hub?
@@alireza071 With the sabvoton, the middle wire from the voltage divider between the potentiometer and thermistor goes to the white wire of the hall sensor conenctor. The thermistor then goes to +5v and pot to 0v
hi , how many watt is the motor ? as i have just ordered them same hall sensors, to replace the ones on my 1500 watt motor , im using a 48v battery , and notice in the specs of hall sensors -- Operating Voltage : 4.5V - 24V .do you think they will be ok , or will i end up burning them out quickly ,? and thanks for sharing your knowledge !
Hall sensors run off 5-12v supplied through the separate hall sensor connector NOT the main battery so no issues there. Motor is rated for 3kw but will be pushing for 8kw with some additional cooling from heatsinks and ferrofluid.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel how did it work? I already put ferro in already and im waiting for my hubsink to arrive. Will also upgrade phase wire. Did your set up mitigate heat on the hub? Thanks man
Nice work mate 👍🏾 are u by any chance able to help me sort out my damaged motor wire need them thick gauges if that's possible are u able ?if so how do I get intouch with u thanks ps the hub motor is a citycoco 60v60h 2000w
It may be possible, but you might lose warranty and because of the wire size, you won't be able to run the hall sensor cable through therefore losing sinusoidal signal
hi again mate , i managed to make a complete mess of my hall sensors , and in doing so somehow snapped the little Circuit Board that sensor went into , please could you point me in the right direction , to where i could buy the board with sensor attatched , i dont want to buy wrong one .
I've never had to purchase the board itself, but I think you'd be looking at one of these bit.ly/3cmO1se . You might need to replace the factory sensors with whatever you were going to use. As long has the new sensors are in the same place on the stators as the old ones, the board just acts as a connecting place for the wires.
That's the one thing I don't like about hub motors, wires can get chewed up as there is hardly any room from the brake disc. How did yours end up getting damaged?
@@EverythingEbikeChannel Nicely detailed, I luckily caught mine early on, put a thick gauged bit of industrial heatshrink over it the stuff with the glue inside it, and also replaced the round head bolts with flat ones on my disc rotor. Hey Cameron, the other thing you mailed me about, it's one patreon that T did the shout out to you. The other tip I could give you when squeezing through tight holes with cables is to use silicone spray helps heaps. I know, I've done it myself.
Absolutely love the hard work and passion you show
Thanks mate 😁
FYI, OEMS use a Teflon / PTFE insulation on phase wires. It why it’s so thin compared to silicon. Motors hit 100c which is why heat shrink is a poor idea. Kapton tape is your friend, as is die grinding burs on axle passage. One can use wire “braid” sheathing to draw the wires through the axle hole. Halls and thermistor are logic current, so can be far thinner gauge. Lastly, one puts the logic wires in the gaps between the thick phase wires. Look into Motorsport harnesses
Ah, didn't know you could get teflon wires. Perhaps save that for another motor, but given that heatshrink doesn't activate till at least 150C and the previous wire was PVC the temp can't be that much of an issue with ferrofluid and hubsinks I'm guessing? Cheers for the tips tho 👍
Great job! I had no idea about the pull up resistor.
thinner insulation im sure is fine as long its the good high heat stuff
Awesome. Back at it!
Certainly am!😁
Very interesting topic :)
😁
Lovely little video. Useful stuff.
Thanks!
Thanks man I really appreciate this!
my motor hall harness got 5 wires but on controller side i have 6 wires with white wire as extra ... how can i tell if its a temp sensor or what else could it be plz help
I use the QS205 and I noticed that the brake disc bolts or something has rubbed away the gauze sleeve and half the plastic insulation from one of the phase wires, i'm quite surprised by discovering this, I guess I didn't secure it properly in a suitable position. The process you went through to replace the wires seems so difficult ! I hope I can get away with just covering the bare wire with glue to replace the missing plastic wire insulation. My cheap 1500w hub had a metal spring thing that protected the wire from damage. I was only supposed to be changing a punctured tyre and noticed a few big problems !
Yep if the wire isn't pulled out the way, it will likely get caught on the rotor bolts as they stick out. Be VERY careful to insulate the bare metal properly if you're not replacing the wires as if they touch it will certainly take out the controller and let off some sparks! Properly speaking the motor should be rewired but I know it's a pain :)
Use silicon paste
What if you don't have a hall sensor where were the wires go?
what causes these to go bad? using your video and a few others i was able to determine my yellow wire hall sensor was bad. the other day i ran 95volts through my controller just to see what happens and it didnt like it so i backed it down to 85 and all was good again, until tonight on the trail. shreading on a dirt trail in the complete dark after work all of a sudden the motor sounded like it was grinding if i applied to much throttle over 10 amps
If you run the motor on a bad sensor, I expect it could damage the controller as well. I'm no expert but the grinding is probably either a bad bearing or faulty controller?
Uphills and on dirt mud trails sometimes even on rain high speeds can cause bearing damages due to struggling going hard and yes the yellow wire is first burning on the connection maybe even damage sensor
Bad soldering, corrosion, high voltage, high current...
@Everything bike channel where did you get the replacement cable
Hi were can I buy lug connectors for phase wires from motor to controlleri thanks
Great video.
Question…does it matter if the hall sensor replacement is unipolar or bipolar?
Can’t find any information online or on RUclips.
/Bklyn👑
The ones I used and from what I can gather from other guides are bipolar. I'm not sure if it would matter as I'm guessing all the magnets are orientated the same way around the hub but could be wrong so stick with bipolar. 👍
Put a little cooking spray on the wires and it will go through easy
Good job! I’ll share this on the @Ebike Riderz Facebook page for ya👍🏼
I'll take a look at that page, cheers!
what wires did u attach the thermister to?
someone once asked in a video why is the wheel stiff when phase is shorted , i assume its because turning the wheel generates output current to cause resistance ?
Hi what size are phse wires lug connectors or can I use choc block connection and what is the amps. I bought from Amazon lug connectors to thin
I used 8AWG for the phase wires and or 8000w would strongly recommend lugs directly to the controller rather than choc blocks as they have much higher contact resistances and could get very hot or even catch fire.
hey man what kind of stand is this
Just what i was thinking.strip the silicone and put heat shrink on them...but i hope it works for my gearerd hub 🙏
Hello sir
I have a 6 wire motor and 1 hall connection...
When i connect the 3 wires of motor from the controller then with the load starting torque is zero and the main wire of the motor is heat......
I also connected the 2 controllers with the motor but the problem is the same.....
hey i got a question for ya. i took my motor apart to rewire it and like an idiot i did it while i was tired and never took pics. now it would be pretty simple if it was just hall wires connected to a pcb to sensor but my setup has no pcb for the sensors. its straight twisted wire and ghetto i couldnt believe it when i opened it up but im pretty sure its not connected correctly. i was wondering if u knew if there was a video i could just take a look at to see the wire placement for non pcb board hall sensors.
Hmm that's weird haven't seen that before, sorry can't help much!
I replaced 2 hallsensors that was bad, but for some reason it keeps blowing up. I used a tester to check if hall sensors are toggling before putting power( it does). I also used same controller on a different motor and it works. Any help will be appreciated.
Hi ! I recently bought a wheel of this type, I did everything as you did. But the wheel turns in the opposite direction. What do you suggest I do with it? Thx G.
help me bro, my hub has 2 sliced wires small white one and the big blue??? can i fix it ath ome????
White one is most likely the temperature sensor output and blue one is a phase wire. Watch what I did and that's how I managed to get mine done at home and I am no expert - first time here!
@@EverythingEbikeChannel oh mate thank god its all fixed just soldered the cables after i chopped the wire and pulled it back into the hub thanks to the manufacturer for offering such vast wires
How important is the black negative phase wire for the throttle. My cable got worned down, and small black wire got severed..
You needed all 3 wires for the throttle. One is positive, one is negative and the last one is the signal
@@EverythingEbikeChannel it's a 5 wire phase. I don't have a signal either...
I just don't know how important the black negative wire is..
That was a pic of the severed black negative phase wire. I am going to have a heck of a time splicing this extremely small gauge wire back together 😒
what temp sensor did you use?
A generic 10k NTC one but haven't got it working with the sabvoton yet. It needs to be part of a voltage divider but haven't had a chance to fiddle around with values yet
so how do you get the magnito away from the hub or did u neglect to show that
Did that in a previous video here ruclips.net/video/3VW67jY5XJU/видео.html
Is there a certain sensor to buy I'm wanting some for a stealth bomber 5000w hub but unsure on what to buy ?
Look up 'hub motor hall sensor' and any one should do. Ideally check the part number on the ones you're replacing but any digital sensor should work.
Good
Did you ever see if the temp sensor worked with your sabvoton controller at all and output a realistic temperature?
The sensor I installed here didn't work, it showed 130˚ all the time. I need to get a PTC thermistor and 22kΩ potentiometer to get it to work I believe. The sabvoton is very sensitive to changes in voltage from the sensor so there is only a range of about 0.25-0.5v.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel the sabvoton manual suggests a kty83-122. However these are discontinued so an alternative is the kty81-122. I have ordered one and now looking into wiring. Are you 100% sure the sabvoton needs a voltage signal return for temp sensor? I was thinking for the kty sensor it maybe just needs a resistance to ground reading and the controller interprets this into a temperature. So basically wiring white sabvoton to kty leg, then second leg to ground. It’s really hard to find any info from siacosys
@@lhk8558 have you finde Out how to Wire the Sensor ? Im stand in the Same as you above one year 🤣 have the Sensor but dont know how to Wire
copper wires have 40 percent better electrical transmission through them, less resistence actually, so wires 40 percent thinner toi do the same job as those big alumiminum u struggle with
Can I just remove all sensores out and make it go without them ??
Yes, but only if your controller supports that. Otherwise it either won't work or will be very juddery.
fantastic video, but i would very much like you to tell whats the recistance between phase wires ....if any ? my ebike is fucked, and as far as im guessing there shouldnt be any connection between the phase wires correct ? i took my motor out as you and meassured the ressistance between phase wires and beeeeep they are all connected ! they shouldnt be right ?
thanks for the awesome video
Yeah your multimeter will beep when you connect it between any 2 as they're essentially loops of wire connected together but with a tiny bit or resistance. Normally the resistance should be between 30-200mΩ, anything over that could suggest the phase wires are burned out but the larger the motor the higher the resistance so measure it the post back here.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel thanks for helping , as soon as i get some time off from work i will try and let you know
Can I ask what type of crimper you are using and where'd you get it?
It's a generic 10 ton hydraulic crimp off ebay. If you look them up there are loads around the £30 mark that come with all the dies for different size crimps.
Great video. Question.
My ebike works fine, but when I do the motor phase wire test and turn wheel (backwards) for resistance I don't get any but motor works fine and hall sensors work fine. This is not normal but it hasn't caused problems. And ideas why?
/bklyn 👑
Is it a geared motor that only engages when spun forwards perhaps?
Nice job
What model temperature sensor and do u know where can I get pls?
Did u use automotive silicon on the side plate to seal and waterproof the hub?
That would be great help
Just added the link to the description, they are generic 1kΩ thermistors as that is the same value as the KTY83-122 that comes in most hub motors. I haven't actually tested it with the sabvoton so don't know if the extra PCB I added is wired up correctly with the polarity and voltage divider. And yes, I will be using the silicone to seal it once I've added ferrofluid at a later date.
@@EverythingEbikeChannelhi did u test temperature sensor with display? where do u have to solder the other pin of temperature sensor as only one wire comes of the hub?
@@alireza071 With the sabvoton, the middle wire from the voltage divider between the potentiometer and thermistor goes to the white wire of the hall sensor conenctor. The thermistor then goes to +5v and pot to 0v
Red varnish insulator from MG chemicals is what you're looking for...
hi , how many watt is the motor ? as i have just ordered them same hall sensors, to replace the ones on my 1500 watt motor , im using a 48v battery , and notice in the specs of hall sensors -- Operating Voltage : 4.5V - 24V .do you think they will be ok , or will i end up burning them out quickly ,? and thanks for sharing your knowledge !
Hall sensors run off 5-12v supplied through the separate hall sensor connector NOT the main battery so no issues there. Motor is rated for 3kw but will be pushing for 8kw with some additional cooling from heatsinks and ferrofluid.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel thanks bro !
@@EverythingEbikeChannel how did it work? I already put ferro in already and im waiting for my hubsink to arrive. Will also upgrade phase wire. Did your set up mitigate heat on the hub? Thanks man
You should test the hall sensors instead of refitting them, that's like changing 2 wheels when one wheel is flat.
Well they came in a pack of three and I was bored... 😂
Nice work mate 👍🏾 are u by any chance able to help me sort out my damaged motor wire need them thick gauges if that's possible are u able ?if so how do I get intouch with u thanks ps the hub motor is a citycoco 60v60h 2000w
It may be possible, but you might lose warranty and because of the wire size, you won't be able to run the hall sensor cable through therefore losing sinusoidal signal
hi again mate , i managed to make a complete mess of my hall sensors , and in doing so somehow snapped the little Circuit Board that sensor went into , please could you point me in the right direction , to where i could buy the board with sensor attatched , i dont want to buy wrong one .
I've never had to purchase the board itself, but I think you'd be looking at one of these bit.ly/3cmO1se . You might need to replace the factory sensors with whatever you were going to use. As long has the new sensors are in the same place on the stators as the old ones, the board just acts as a connecting place for the wires.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel thanks bro !
Yes I have also ordered the same too as. I messed up my PCB board
Where can i purchase the motor cable?
Here www.componentshop.co.uk/10awg-silicone-cable-wire.html
That's the one thing I don't like about hub motors, wires can get chewed up as there is hardly any room from the brake disc. How did yours end up getting damaged?
Rubbing on the disc bolts and I didn't notice 🤦♂️
@@EverythingEbikeChannel Nicely detailed, I luckily caught mine early on, put a thick gauged bit of industrial heatshrink over it the stuff with the glue inside it, and also replaced the round head bolts with flat ones on my disc rotor. Hey Cameron, the other thing you mailed me about, it's one patreon that T did the shout out to you. The other tip I could give you when squeezing through tight holes with cables is to use silicone spray helps heaps. I know, I've done it myself.
why are the replies hidden
Shouldn't be, I can see them all...
DUDE,just switch to copper
Not looking forward to be doing the same.....
There's a lot of posts making it sound much harder than it is I think. Main advice is take your time and do things properly so nothing shorts out.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel Alright, thanks for the advice.
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