Just recently discovered your channel and I'm struck by it's high quality - thanks a lot, I'm learning so much! Also thanks for not adding tons of distracting imagery, like that it's waaaaaay easier to focus on the dense and super helpful information.
Extremely high quality content, as a teacher, I appreciate the depth of the information you shared. Presentation/speaking inflection isn’t perfect as nitpicked by others, but that’ll come I time. Please keep making content! I can see this channel moving up the ranks with some of the biggest names in the climbing space (lattice, movement for climbers. Etc)
Great video, nice content, really clear! I'm one of those not paying attention in the GYM about aerobic endurance, and focusing on power and power-endurance. Only last months (since I started to do lead outside..) I've been thinking more about aerobic energy. This video made me realize I do have to add more much endurance to my training and do less power-endurance. I'm curious about how low carb-diet or climbing in a fasted state can affect these energy systems.
I believe Thomas Cunningham is doing some research on this topic but for right now, we primarily deal with athletes performing carb-fueled training sessions
Is the take home here that training focus for general climbing performance should focus on alatic power and aerobic capacity with anaerobic power endurance being something that by virtue of those other two will improve and training like 4x4 / repeaters are most effectively as a 'top up' perhaps when getting near a performance phase. aka - max strength x endurance = power endurance
Thanks for the simplified explanation. What would be a good strategy for a lead climbing training plan. I’m always unsure how to combine strength (bouldering, fingerboard) and endurance training (repeaters, long easy circuits) and redpointing while training. Would be great to have a video about it.
Periodzation. Base training, build training, peak training. Hypertrophy, strength, power/speed. Hypertrophy is not great for climbing/mountaineering. A lot goes into sports medicine, oh yeah and at high levels don't forget plenty of peds. For me (amateur) base training is getting to the point where I can shake out on a decent overhang on jugs indefinitely or at least enough to up/down (unclipping on way down) climb 140 ft non stop with overhang. Shake out drills at each clip really help, so shake out on each hand for 20 seconds at each clip on something easy. It will give you an idea of where you limit is and its cool to see it increase. It takes a very patient belayer, but the results are amazing. So basically can spend 8+ hours a week in gym on just easy training. Still get on harder stuff of course, but focus on getting that base up. Then build phase where you work on strength and power. Also, talk to coaches at your local gym and watch team kids )
Y'all have been on tiktok too much, this video is just fine your attention span is the issue there's literally climbing eye candy overlayed on top of useful explanations
Interesting topics. Some aspects that could use more elaboration imho: what causes pump? How do you know pump only occurs in glycolytic state? How does neurological adaptation affect muscle recruitment and metabolic state? Does glycolytic training increase the threshold where aerobic stage is dominant over glycolytic? By alactic are you talking about usage of creatine monophosphate? Is it the metabolic output during alactic that really leads to strength or are we not accounting for neurological adaptation and muscle fiber type changes?
They all work together and we don't really know how it works. A big hold is like slow run relying on Aerobic respiration. When we get pumped and feel like we re gonna puke that is Glycolysis, which happens because the hydogen ions are making our blood acidic. Acidic blood means muscles stop working. I have always assumed calming down, lowering heart rate, gets us back to where we can get back to using glycolysis (using more energy on big moves or tiny holds). Our body adapts in a bunch of ways which increases our ability to recover, etc. What is really interesting is how hypertrophy comes into play and how a skinny climber has grip strength on par with a big bodybuilder.
The commenter above went about it in the wrong way, but I agree that the only thing that could really be improved about this video is your oration/presentation style. This was monotone and low-energy almost to the point of being distracting. I can't tell exactly, but it seems like you may be reading off of cue cards or a prompter- if you go over your lines a number of times before each take you can ad-lib them better and add emphasis in places where it seems appropriate more easily.
As others have said but worth emphasizing, the topic is interesting but the delivery was a bit dry to listen to. You come across like you don't want to be here.
Stopped watching after the first minute. A very interesting topic but I need somebody to catch my attention. Having said that I do appreciate all the free content Steve is putting out there! Big fan here ❤
Damn add or something you should work on developing your attention span if you want the information but can't absorb it without being entertained you may have some issues
Just recently discovered your channel and I'm struck by it's high quality - thanks a lot, I'm learning so much! Also thanks for not adding tons of distracting imagery, like that it's waaaaaay easier to focus on the dense and super helpful information.
Super useful, very good explanation, thanks. Love the buildings analogy.
Awesome stuff!! This explains the energy systems concept so much better than what I had previously understood, thank you!
that analogy really made things click for me, thanks a lot! great vid
Great video! Would be great to have more video on the three energy system and how to train each of them
best vid on this topic ive seen so far. excellent work
Thanks for sharing this and great explanations analogy
Extremely high quality content, as a teacher, I appreciate the depth of the information you shared. Presentation/speaking inflection isn’t perfect as nitpicked by others, but that’ll come I time. Please keep making content! I can see this channel moving up the ranks with some of the biggest names in the climbing space (lattice, movement for climbers. Etc)
Thank You for sharing your content!
Great climbing footage!
Great video, nice content, really clear!
I'm one of those not paying attention in the GYM about aerobic endurance, and focusing on power and power-endurance. Only last months (since I started to do lead outside..) I've been thinking more about aerobic energy. This video made me realize I do have to add more much endurance to my training and do less power-endurance.
I'm curious about how low carb-diet or climbing in a fasted state can affect these energy systems.
I believe Thomas Cunningham is doing some research on this topic but for right now, we primarily deal with athletes performing carb-fueled training sessions
Nice video thanks guys
That made a lot of sense. Great info, very well delivered.
Is the take home here that training focus for general climbing performance should focus on alatic power and aerobic capacity with anaerobic power endurance being something that by virtue of those other two will improve and training like 4x4 / repeaters are most effectively as a 'top up' perhaps when getting near a performance phase.
aka - max strength x endurance = power endurance
great V great Cont.
Thanks for the simplified explanation.
What would be a good strategy for a lead climbing training plan. I’m always unsure how to combine strength (bouldering, fingerboard) and endurance training (repeaters, long easy circuits) and redpointing while training.
Would be great to have a video about it.
Periodzation. Base training, build training, peak training. Hypertrophy, strength, power/speed. Hypertrophy is not great for climbing/mountaineering. A lot goes into sports medicine, oh yeah and at high levels don't forget plenty of peds. For me (amateur) base training is getting to the point where I can shake out on a decent overhang on jugs indefinitely or at least enough to up/down (unclipping on way down) climb 140 ft non stop with overhang. Shake out drills at each clip really help, so shake out on each hand for 20 seconds at each clip on something easy. It will give you an idea of where you limit is and its cool to see it increase. It takes a very patient belayer, but the results are amazing. So basically can spend 8+ hours a week in gym on just easy training. Still get on harder stuff of course, but focus on getting that base up. Then build phase where you work on strength and power. Also, talk to coaches at your local gym and watch team kids )
Y'all have been on tiktok too much, this video is just fine your attention span is the issue there's literally climbing eye candy overlayed on top of useful explanations
It's his voice delivery. I'm sure they've watched other videos from this channel
Interesting topics. Some aspects that could use more elaboration imho: what causes pump? How do you know pump only occurs in glycolytic state? How does neurological adaptation affect muscle recruitment and metabolic state? Does glycolytic training increase the threshold where aerobic stage is dominant over glycolytic? By alactic are you talking about usage of creatine monophosphate? Is it the metabolic output during alactic that really leads to strength or are we not accounting for neurological adaptation and muscle fiber type changes?
They all work together and we don't really know how it works. A big hold is like slow run relying on Aerobic respiration. When we get pumped and feel like we re gonna puke that is Glycolysis, which happens because the hydogen ions are making our blood acidic. Acidic blood means muscles stop working. I have always assumed calming down, lowering heart rate, gets us back to where we can get back to using glycolysis (using more energy on big moves or tiny holds). Our body adapts in a bunch of ways which increases our ability to recover, etc. What is really interesting is how hypertrophy comes into play and how a skinny climber has grip strength on par with a big bodybuilder.
That boulder at 1:36 looks amazing, where is it?
The Channel. Southern Idaho.
@@nate_liles cheers!
Perfect, as usual 👌
The commenter above went about it in the wrong way, but I agree that the only thing that could really be improved about this video is your oration/presentation style. This was monotone and low-energy almost to the point of being distracting. I can't tell exactly, but it seems like you may be reading off of cue cards or a prompter- if you go over your lines a number of times before each take you can ad-lib them better and add emphasis in places where it seems appropriate more easily.
As others have said but worth emphasizing, the topic is interesting but the delivery was a bit dry to listen to. You come across like you don't want to be here.
Stopped watching after the first minute. A very interesting topic but I need somebody to catch my attention.
Having said that I do appreciate all the free content Steve is putting out there! Big fan here ❤
He talks slowly but it didn't bother me
Damn add or something you should work on developing your attention span if you want the information but can't absorb it without being entertained you may have some issues
Pearls before swine.
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