Great video, I had version 2.04 and didn't know about the heat sink being close to the live. I did always think the aluminium case was a safety risk so thanks to your video I've successfully grounded my case and lifted the heat sink slightly for safety. I noticed the soldering tip was grounded on my version so didn't need to add a wire to ground the tip. Feel much safer using it now ☺️ thank you
This is a helpful video. However, the step where you are grounding the soldering tip is not visually clear. Are you connecting the spot labelled PE in the front left of the board to the negative spot over by DC terminal? Am I reading correctly that the failure here is the use of a two prong connector instead of a 3 prong connector since there is already an earth spot but the connector is not using it?
@@Four_X so you are attaching the end of the cable to the quite small PR pad that is unused on the DC connector? Is there enough of a route around that to connect the negative terminal to the earth? A camera shot in that video showing the ends soldered would have been perfect.
@@seanperry3667 Sorry I've no got back to you sooner, The conection is between The negative (-) that goes to the front panel controller board and the Potential Earth (PE).
My unit also has a black PCB but there's a difference, it has the clock battery glued to the transformer while yours I don't see any battery. Could the ground bolt and nut be screwed to the bottom of the case instead of the plug panel of the case like you did here?
@@Four_X All the videos on youtube use the same method so I was wondering why that would be, on the bottom it makes cleaning the metal shavings much easier and there's no bolt sticking out on the case, as long as I sand the edges on the case and the screws it should all be grounded but maybe I was missing something. On my unit the handle is earthed, I've checked with a multimeter, it's the V3.1S version on banggood.
@@Four_X I got the one from the CZ warehouse and official store, I figured if I paid more I would get one unit where some resemblance of quality control was done. They sure vary in quality, I've seen people complain that the t12 tips wobble in the 9501 handle, capacitors that were damaged and leaking, tons of issues.
Brilliant! Thanks for the clear explanation. The black board V 2.05 definitely needs the ground cable between PE and - (neg) on the board for the tip (pin 3) to be gounded. I received mine from the official KRGER store and the tip on this version of the board was definitely not gounded. For good measure I also did the chassis ground and the kapton tape under the raised heasink and flipped the on/off switch as well.
I've ordered the t12 2.1s in this as it seems more popular not sure why and looked at grounding , once you bolt all the case together wont the iron be grounded anyway ? and why insulate the bottom of the case?
As I think to know by looking into the subject what to buy for quite some time now... KSGER 2.1S/3.1S vs. Quicko/Quecoo T12-955/956/958... The 2.1S Version has an STM32 (ARM)Processor installed. This chip can be flashed with custom firmware. Later Version 3.1S and others like the one with big OLED in red/white screen colour use MM32 or others as Processor. Clones of the STM32 but with other PinOut and less Documentation and maybe different internal CPU architecture = No/less mods available/possible. Theres an Monster-Thread of 192 pages + growing on EEV-Blog about modding the firmware. If the Tip has electrical connection to the outside metal casing of the GX-Plug, and the plug has connetion to the Front Panel, and the unit is screwed togehter, the Tip Grounding should work without the Jumper Cable Mod. But the jumper cable is another level of failsafe. The legs of the PSU´s PCB components are sometimes trimmed not properly = too long. The mounting space of the PCB sitting in the slit of the case is very tight. So the legs (e.g. 400V capacitor) could contact the case and rub off the isolating anodization layer over time. -> Plastic Protection + Retrim legs (so they can´t short each other, another failure mode) How do you like it after 1 year now? Which handle do you use? 907 / M8 / 9501 / P9?
@@hectorpascale1013 the standard handle i use works fine, i have grounded the case when i got it but when you buy them now they are grounded by default, its a good unit for the money also some pics are older as when you get it they have different caps and better pcb design over whats been reported over the years as them issues have been fixed
Elektronik on the forcue forum says it is not to ground between PE and -. It says that it is said to go through the dividing transformer or something. The abbreviation of it is nonsense, etc. I'm not electronics please explain. (I'm only changing sprawled condensers.) I have one more question, my problem: IALSO HAVE AND BROKEN WHEEL. I HAVE TO TURN 6 TIMES TO MOVE THE MENU :( Thank you for answering and help (I'm delighted for bad english - translates googletratorslator )
Nice and neat, as always. This later revision seams allot better. I think this one also has newer firmware. Have the older one myself, so had to do all the mods. Will go back in and insulate under the board. Nice touch that. Happy soldering.
Thanks Dermot, I was quite surprised when I saw they'd fixed some of the issues in this later revision board. I've been using the Iron for just over two weeks and it's surprised me how good it is.
In this year of 2022, I bought one with no power supply inside, I used a 200W 24V meanwell power and the DC version went dead day one in a few hours with no sign of damage at all. The parts are cheap alternatives which could be led to catastrophic malfunction. Don't buy KSGER now~
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
2:00 thanks, that was perfect way to show ground.
Great video, I had version 2.04 and didn't know about the heat sink being close to the live. I did always think the aluminium case was a safety risk so thanks to your video I've successfully grounded my case and lifted the heat sink slightly for safety. I noticed the soldering tip was grounded on my version so didn't need to add a wire to ground the tip. Feel much safer using it now ☺️ thank you
Thanks a lot for the video! Finally I find the way to ground the tip!
Thanks, it's shocking this thing didn't have a ground tip. Ha
This is one of the best stations out there for the price!
Yep, 100% Agree.
This is a helpful video. However, the step where you are grounding the soldering tip is not visually clear. Are you connecting the spot labelled PE in the front left of the board to the negative spot over by DC terminal?
Am I reading correctly that the failure here is the use of a two prong connector instead of a 3 prong connector since there is already an earth spot but the connector is not using it?
PE is Earth not negative of the DC terminal.
@@Four_X so you are attaching the end of the cable to the quite small PR pad that is unused on the DC connector? Is there enough of a route around that to connect the negative terminal to the earth?
A camera shot in that video showing the ends soldered would have been perfect.
@@seanperry3667 Sorry I've no got back to you sooner, The conection is between The negative (-) that goes to the front panel controller board and the Potential Earth (PE).
@@Four_X Why not just short the pins 2 and 3 of the DC connector (from under the board)? The PE trace goes to the pin 3 and pin 2 is negative.
Such a grounded man. Hey 4x 😃
Hey Horse, Hope you Ant and Big Nutz are doing well.
@@Four_X we are all good 😀👍
I am not able to see how you grounded the tip of the iron, is there another view? or a link to more information ?
My unit also has a black PCB but there's a difference, it has the clock battery glued to the transformer while yours I don't see any battery.
Could the ground bolt and nut be screwed to the bottom of the case instead of the plug panel of the case like you did here?
Sure, you can put it anywhere on the outer case.
@@Four_X All the videos on youtube use the same method so I was wondering why that would be, on the bottom it makes cleaning the metal shavings much easier and there's no bolt sticking out on the case, as long as I sand the edges on the case and the screws it should all be grounded but maybe I was missing something. On my unit the handle is earthed, I've checked with a multimeter, it's the V3.1S version on banggood.
I've seen versions with the handle earthed and not earthed. I think these may be made by different factories, it would explain a lot.
@@Four_X I got the one from the CZ warehouse and official store, I figured if I paid more I would get one unit where some resemblance of quality control was done. They sure vary in quality, I've seen people complain that the t12 tips wobble in the 9501 handle, capacitors that were damaged and leaking, tons of issues.
also happy to see content from you.. Love it all!!
also disappointed if it is not a cool repair then 😆
Ha, don't worry I'll have some Repair and Mod Video comming soon.
@@Four_X nice.....
Brilliant! Thanks for the clear explanation. The black board V 2.05 definitely needs the ground cable between PE and - (neg) on the board for the tip (pin 3) to be gounded. I received mine from the official KRGER store and the tip on this version of the board was definitely not gounded. For good measure I also did the chassis ground and the kapton tape under the raised heasink and flipped the on/off switch as well.
Nice one. The KRGER is a great iron if you can get passed the safety issues.
link to ksger's official store please ( I'd rather get the genuine thing instead of a cheaper chinese knock off)
hello, is its safe to follow the grounding you did on my ksger solder station? in my country wall socket there is only two, live and neutral
If you have no earth no, if you do have earth yes.
@@Four_X what if i bury a metal rod to land amd make it as earth ground?
I've ordered the t12 2.1s in this as it seems more popular not sure why and looked at grounding , once you bolt all the case together wont the iron be grounded anyway ? and why insulate the bottom of the case?
As I think to know by looking into the subject what to buy for quite some time now...
KSGER 2.1S/3.1S vs. Quicko/Quecoo T12-955/956/958...
The 2.1S Version has an STM32 (ARM)Processor installed. This chip can be flashed with custom firmware.
Later Version 3.1S and others like the one with big OLED in red/white screen colour use MM32 or others as Processor.
Clones of the STM32 but with other PinOut and less Documentation and maybe different internal CPU architecture = No/less mods available/possible.
Theres an Monster-Thread of 192 pages + growing on EEV-Blog about modding the firmware.
If the Tip has electrical connection to the outside metal casing of the GX-Plug, and the plug has connetion to the Front Panel,
and the unit is screwed togehter, the Tip Grounding should work without the Jumper Cable Mod.
But the jumper cable is another level of failsafe.
The legs of the PSU´s PCB components are sometimes trimmed not properly = too long.
The mounting space of the PCB sitting in the slit of the case is very tight.
So the legs (e.g. 400V capacitor) could contact the case and rub off the isolating anodization layer over time.
-> Plastic Protection + Retrim legs (so they can´t short each other, another failure mode)
How do you like it after 1 year now?
Which handle do you use? 907 / M8 / 9501 / P9?
@@hectorpascale1013 the standard handle i use works fine, i have grounded the case when i got it but when you buy them now they are grounded by default, its a good unit for the money also some pics are older as when you get it they have different caps and better pcb design over whats been reported over the years as them issues have been fixed
So how am i supposed to do this without another soldering iron ?
Chicken and the egg scenario, it's like buying a pair of scissors that are plastic wrapped and you need scissors to open them.
@@Four_X I have a knife to deal with that lol
Elektronik on the forcue forum says it is not to ground between PE and -. It says that it is said to go through the dividing transformer or something.
The abbreviation of it is nonsense, etc.
I'm not electronics please explain.
(I'm only changing sprawled condensers.)
I have one more question, my problem:
IALSO HAVE AND BROKEN WHEEL. I HAVE TO TURN 6 TIMES TO MOVE THE MENU :(
Thank you for answering and help
(I'm delighted for bad english - translates googletratorslator )
Is this 2.1s or 3.1s
3.1s
@@Four_X
Thanks
Nice and neat, as always. This later revision seams allot better. I think this one also has newer firmware. Have the older one myself, so had to do all the mods.
Will go back in and insulate under the board. Nice touch that. Happy soldering.
Thanks Dermot, I was quite surprised when I saw they'd fixed some of the issues in this later revision board. I've been using the Iron for just over two weeks and it's surprised me how good it is.
Nice video beter be Save than sorry 😊👍🏻
Wish they sold the DIY kit cheaper without the PSU, so I can buy a one with proper safety certification lol
In this year of 2022, I bought one with no power supply inside, I used a 200W 24V meanwell power and the DC version went dead day one in a few hours with no sign of damage at all. The parts are cheap alternatives which could be led to catastrophic malfunction. Don't buy KSGER now~