I was thinking the same, and in your lab the cable duct isn't ugly. Thats not a place for visitors or something. Or use an industrial looking duct so its a feature. Btw congrats with your newborn!
You might consider making the external handle one that has a key for an override. That way if there is ever a failure of the electronic lock (or a power failure), you can still get in your office.
I would use an electromagnet designed specifically for low security control access applications. If there is a power failure it releases the door, you don't need a backup method to open it
Also, for anyone wanting to DIY your own security door, mount your electronics on the INSIDE of the secure room. The only thing that should be outside is the reader. Otherwise someone can open up the electronics and bypass the security features. (LPL has a few videos showcasing this)
I think for a lock that is meant to keep a child out it's good enough. By the point the child is able to mess around in there and bridge the lock open you have no need for it anymore anyways
that was such a big mood. same reason i'm not allowed to build anything for the house unless i make it pretty. struggles of living with a designer. on the upside, it pushes my crafting skills a bit.
As someone who also has a locked area (my attic access and server closet) with a fingerprint reader, I would suggest adding a couple more of your finger prints from other finger. I cannot count the times I locked myself out because I cut/burned my finger, it was dirty, etc. I finally added a couple other fingers. Also you should put a hole through the wall and plug it in from inside your shop area. I assume the significant other doesn't care so much about what goes on in that room. If that is not an option either you can get flat ribbon speaker wire that you can barely see once applied on the wall and painted over. You would need to do you AC-DC conversion before your box, but you could throw that under that table, or put it in the wall behind a blanking plate. Congrats on the baby! He/she going to have a very cool dad!
Just an FYI about your how to power something on the door side of things. There are hinges called electrified hinges, they are used for hotels and such where the readers need continuous power on the door. You can use a drill and drill a small hole from one side to the other or as some doors do it around the permitter. Still love your implementation, and yes I wish these are more common.
@@greatscottlab Never tested it but I feel any regular metalic hinge can become electrified with easy and minimal modifications - add 2 holes for connections, 1 on fix part, 1 on rotating part - then it's "only" wiring. As long as using 2 distinct hinges for each polarity and the frame nor the door aren't metal. Of course limited to low voltage below 24v.
@@vincentdesjardins1354Electrified hinges are essentially just a hinge with integrated slip-rings. There's an easier method of the wiring is in a protected space (ie on the lab side of the door), which is really just a pair of terminal blocks with a coiled cord between them. These were used before electrified door hinges existed or electronic glass break detectors. There would be an adhesive backed foil tape applied to the door glass and the coiled cord would bring the circuit from the door to the door frame where it could be permanently wired into the business's burglar alarm system.
For future reference, the electromagnet piece, it's called an Electronic Strike Plate, which helps with locating versions for both inner and external doors. Generally though, you're not gonna find many that fit within existing strike plate designs, simply because the latch does have to allow the pin to pass through where the strike plate is (and thus through part of the wall).
You should add a backup battery to the fingerprint box that can power it for at least a day straight, so if the power goes out you still can access the room. Or add a way for the keyhole to activate a mechanical bypass to get access to the room when the fingerprint reader isn't working for whatever reason.
@@greatscottlab I noticed you still have a key hole. On some locks when rotating the key past the normal unlock position, it moves the position of the upper tab (I forget what it's called) so the door can be opened without using the door handle.
On most doors (at least where I live) turning the key towards the open position when the door is already unlocked will retract the latch just as if you pressed the handle. With that, you could still open the door with a key regardless of the electronics (the same way you can open it with the handle from the inside).
Congratulations with your new born! I had the exact same issue. My "lab" (mancave) is not the safest place. But I told my daughter what she can and cannot touch, and she listens very well (so far). I also installed a normal manual lock to the door. ;)
personally id set the led ring to blue as soon as the sensor is touched and reading, and then display either a solid green as it's approved, or a flashing red as it's ejected to make it feel a little more responsive :)
Exactly. No button (or website) is ever permitted to take more than 0.1 seconds to react to a push in a noticeable way, even if the actual function takes longer to do!
Hi Scott, So glad you chose a solenoid striker. However, as other commenters have noted, you need to do one or two modifications for safety. When using this type of access mechanism, you always need a mechanical override. The easiest solution is to configure the latch with a mechanical lock. Normally this is kept locked and the striker is used to enable access. But when there is a failure the door can still be unlocked and unlatched as normal. You should be able to find a "privacy" version of the same latch handle, or one with a lock. You can then ignore the lock below. Alternatively, if the bolt on the lock can be shortened to work with the solenoid striker, then you can swap which ones use the solenoid striker and just leave the deadbolt locked normally. Finally, a couple security and safety fixes for the sensor/controller. You can add a battery backup as others have suggested, or you can provide a auxiliary power input. This will not be as secure, as someone could destructively apply over voltage from the outside, but I don't think that's in your threat model. So maybe it's a good solution, just put a barrel jack. The other thing is to move the controller inside the door. You want the controller inaccessible, and also maybe the wiring ducts will be less offensive if they are inside your studio and not in the hallway. Cool project! Excited for phase 2!
Go through the wall into the shop side. You could also move the controller in there and extend the sensor wire to only have that component on the entry side. Much cleaner install that way imo
You could also do an electromagnet at the top of the door if the latch isn't an option. You just give it main's voltage attached to a normally-closed relay. It's just a matter of triggering the relay to break the circuit and turn off the magnet. The best part is that if the power goes out, you can just use the doorhandle as normal. I believe here in Florida, USA these are required for any security door that's blocking an emergency exit. The office I work at has one of these to access a stairwell. The lock can be bypassed by holding the door knob open for 30 seconds, but doing so triggers an alarm. Similar to what you see at grocery stores.
Take off the door frame and the skirting board and chase out a channel on the back, rub the cable along is that completely concealed, you also then cut a small channel into the plaster board, and connect it behind the outlet, meaning you get to keep both outlets for use and the door is always powered.
Might be worth thinking about adding protective earth to the button metall hull. As its impropable but not impossible to get a connection in this case to L or N. Could do it with a metal sheet or pcb on the inside to which the button screws against.
IMO the best way to power this would be to just put a new cable in the wall, then put plaster and paint over it, if this lock system is a permanent solution. Otherwise, You could just drill a hole through the wall behind the box, and power it from the lab's side
I use the same type of circuit to unlock and start my bike it was a lockdown project works like a charm and have been using the old fingerprint sensor will upgrade to the new one soon
I think much better solution would be to place the electronic lock in the lower hole. That way the door could be "closed" all the time and in case of power outage you could unlock it manually with a key.
I was SO excited to see this video, and here's why. For quite some time now I've been designing garage doors that open upwards (like a doggy door) with a hydraulic ram, there will be two, however I still want to be able to walk in and out without needing to open the entire bay. So one of the garage doors will have a person door and that is what I'm here to talk about. I basically had the same idea as you for security, fingerprint. But to hold the door closed I remembered something I've seen long long time ago, magnetic locks, so electro mag on one side and receiver or whatever it's called on the other, when powered you will NOT move the door but when un powered it will move freely, so I just need to get the proper pieces to operate the magnets and code a raspberry pi to turn the magnet off when I scan my finger or tell it over software to turn off. But it will also have a backup normal lock that I typically won't keep locked in case power goes out. And just for further background, my garage runs pretty much solely on solar power and batteries so I'm running it all off DC, the PC, cameras, hydraulics and security, so if its like winter and can barely charge my batteries I can still get in the garage when it's powered off. I completely failed at proper grammar in this, got way too excited to think properly and just spat out a super condensed version sorry about that. But I would recommend looking into the electromagnetic locks because when un powered they're off which means if you ever experience technical difficulties, just cut power and you can get in. Yes, I'm now realizing I could've just said that Instead of my huge tangent, sorry about that too lol
For the door mounted locks, you could theoretically make some system with springs or pogo pins that would make contact when the door is closed, and keep the battery topped up that way. But it would add a lot of complication, and you would still have to power it just like the solution in the video
@@rancidbeef582just recycle some hinges from an old laptop Laptop hinges are designed to do this, there is a small channel where you can pass a display/power cable
I would have done it a bit different. Ideally I would have used the electronic lock on the locking part of the lock, and always keep the door locked. Some modification is probably needed to the locking bolt so it won't stick out too much, but that way there is a solid backup if the electronics for some reason fails. The second thing would have been to power the lock from inside the room, and use a fail safe instead of fail secure lock. That way it would be possible to just trip the HPFI and then gain access to the room in case of electronics failure.
Just started watching this video. My first thought on how to keep the door closed would be with a magnet. When energized you would not be able to open the door. Easy installation of a iron plate to the door and an electrical magnet on the door post. Oh and btw, the grubscrew for securing the doorhandel to the shaft will be flush if you position the shaft so that the grubscrew will sink into the groove in the shaft. That will stop you hurting your hand.
You absolutely can build this into the door without batteries. Contact pads in the door jamb so when you close the door is closes the electrical circuit and powers the device. You can make them small and recessed to make them safe (like regular plugs have the contacts hidden from accidental touch).
I know security is not your primary goal, but you generally don't want to put the brains of the door unlock system on the side that your wanting to have people locked out.
While I love your videos and I learn new things every time, this could have been done with a ASSA ABLOY Code Handle 8811. The batteries last FOREVER in them.
Congrats on the addition to the Great Scott family! Could you run the conduit on the inside of your shop and connect the low voltage wires through the back? That would look clean from outside, which is probably what matters most.
Another great video! About babies, I still remember that day when, coming home after job, I find out, that my daughter peeled off all roll with smd resistors at supervision by shes mom.. 😂 About indoor brackets from industrial segment - You can get them for indoors too, but, usually, they come as an kit with release magnet and bracket.. For powering - just drill through wall and add from inside battery backup system from industrial or commercial door alarm (access control) systems.. Thats means - power supply, battery charging module (usually come in one box) and deep discharge SLA battery.. 😉 Works every time for years..
There are solutions to power from outlet lock mounted in door leaf, they are concealed door loops which allows run cables hidden between door and frame or pin connectors when there is no need to have power supply in open position and capable to supply up tp 30v dc 3A, but you need to do milling in frame and leaf to mount it plus drilling through leaf for cable, so a bit more work and costs, but gives more options. For home use and without requirements regarding the level of security and excluding fire protection issues of such access control there is few more solutions.
There are 2 ways you can make it appealing, you can cut a channel so that it goes directly UP from the security door, around the ceiling cavity, and down to the nearest 240v outlet, or if there's not much insulation behind you can drill back into the wall cavity, up and over. Final product will have wife approval factor of 10 and local laws approval of 10 because it's using the standard up and over. I know it feels like a waste of material, but it's a lot more safer, it takes the guess work out of horizontal when trying to put screws in for fixtures such as pictures and shelves. I do like this project and it would be a fantastic thing, so glad you engineered an exit that requires no electricity.
I would recommend a solenoid deadbolt that mounts in the frame, and wiring from the inside of the shop. Just requires putting a cavity in the door. A backup battery or a manual turn key would prevent issues if power fails and you need to get into the shop. Alternatively, you could use a magnet and frame mounted electromagnet. Easy to bypass, but probably not for a small child.
They do exist, just the naming is tricky if you haven't worked with building security systems. They are called an 'Electronic Door Strike' (in Australia at least), and fully replace the strike plate. Clones can be had for < $100, and often include door open/closed/latched/unlatched sensors in the wiring, can be configured to power to lock, or power to unlock. Keeps the door fire safe with the appropriate handle (locked from the locked side, exit is always 'free egress'). They cheaper strikes, as you've found are a bit of a pain, and they also generally not as robust. It's worth spending a little more for the full strike replacement, but the clones are more than robust enough for home use.
Wow seeing you having a little new family member is such a weird feeling. I follow your Channel for a long time and this reminds me of the time that just flied by. But I wish you and your family only the best!
3:03 You can actually charge the battery with the door closed. Four conductors can be placed on the face plate and strike plate part of the door lock. Two conductors will be attached to the face plate part. The other two conductors will be attached to the strike plate part. When the door is closed, the circuit closes and charges the battery. When the door is opened, the battery feeds the circuit.
You can drill a small hole inside your finderbox to get through the other side of your makerspace,then install an outlet there,its convinient because you can mount an outlet and route everything with electric pipes so its not unappealing,plus is safety proof cause its inside the makerspace which you already dont want anyone to go in.
We have a professional electric doorhandle thingy from Simens at work, and everyone hates it. Battery failing without warning, overcomplicated opening mechnism using servos, mechanical instability unreliable service. Using your sytem replacing the fingerprint reader with an rfid-chip and many problems would be easely avoidable. So great project.
I think what I would have done is recessed just the fingerprint button into the door frame and the electronics I would have hidden inside the plasterboard wall. If I need access to the electronics I can fit a ready made plastic accessory panel from the inside. I would have also tapped the socket and run a cable through the wall for the connection via a spur. It would have been a very clean install. This is my opinion.
The same thing I build some years ago;) I also had to drill and file on the door. I used an rfid reader and writer with an Esp32 and a custom circuit with and 24v AC Transformator to alternate the door opener. Special to make the door summing noise, to know the exact moment where a user can open the door. I created a webinterface to managed multiple users and log access times. Currently I planning to change the Transformator with an H-bridge to make the device smaller. If you’re interested, I can send you some pictures. 😅
What you do is take your oscillating cut tool and cut the exact same sized home in the wall insert your eletronics on the back side of the dry wall cutout and also cutout a circle in the rectangle you cut to insert the thumb sensor and then plut the dry way back and then patch it sand it and repaint it and it will be flush on the wall without that box sticking out of the wall
in this design, I feel like if someone had to really break in, they could easily do that by removing the housing for the locking system and giving it power which defeats its whole purpose. In my opinion, the mechanics and wires should be inside the room and only the fingerprint sensor should be outside.
Yeah, i was about to say that only the fingerprint sensor should be external, but not the circuit. I mean, it's just a plastic box he used so somone could cut it open l, apply voltage to the lock and open. So, better hide the electronics
To be honhest, if it's just a small child you're trying to keep out, a knob will do the trick. They lack the grip strength to operate a round door knob. More important will be a spring door closer to make sure you don't leave the door open.
I've found knobs to be fairly uncommon in Europe. I'm not sure if that's building regulations but there's places in the US (or maybe it's Canada) where they're no longer code on new construction. It's not just children that have problems with them. In actual fact, I don't even have problems with them but I 3D printed an add-on handle so I could open a door with my hands full.
@@chaos.corner Plenty for sale in the UK, there's a lot of older housing stock and people like to replace old stuff with something very similar (an anodised aluminium or satin chrome handle doesn't sit well on a Victorian panel door in a tiled hallway). I've fitted oval style handles on the last couple of restorations I've done, a compromise between old style and ease of operation.
Congratulations on your newborn! For power you can drill thru the wall and inside your lab and then you can make a video on how to make a small power backup so you still can use get inside when the power is out
Congrats to the effort you put in every project. The solution you make has its drawbacks dow. Its required to remove standart handle from one of the door sides. Much easier solution is to put dropbolt/deadbolt type lock below standart as is not need to remove anything from original solution and will be less digging and grinding. There is also surface mount dropbolts and magnets. Of course this need constant power supply but is fail safe and fire safe. Also AMS voltage regulator on the NANO takes 12v anyday. Sometimes simple project like this takes time and money and become not that simple as just buying cheap chineese solution with all in one package. Big fan of you!
You could try to get the electrical power from inside your office room, across the wall. Another concern. If for some reason there is no power in the house, you can't get into your room. However, i love the idea of electrical lock with personal identification.
Have you considered a Maglock? These are electromagnets you install on the top of the door and frame that while energized the door remains locked no matter the door handle state. Much easier to install too.
Nice video, regardless of someone saying the look is unappealing... I like it very much. Btw, with elektronic locks... always make sure there a backup system... Many years ago I made a very ruggedized, rock solid lock... but eventually I had to break out the door.
Well you can put a small solar panel with a charging circuit board to keep the battery always charged. Even if the light is dim, it will charge up the battery and make the manual recharge process less frequent
Great project thank you, just some ideas here - Could you put the release on the lock instead of handle latch and leave it locked so the release will allow it to open and you will have a failsafe of the key? Also, to keep people happy on the aesthetics, have the control box on the inside with just the fingerprint reader on the outside? (Maybe a nice bezel for it but still sitting flush). Remote control too if you use an ESP!
Oooo! That fingerprint reader is really nice! Never forget accounting for the WAF! huh, somewhat off topic, but I just realized we live under 300km apart :D
Eletrical power tapes, this will do the job like a charm! Just taped to the wall, and than put some fresh paint over it. will look wai better than those tubes
Always remember that fingerprint access is more about letting the good guy not accidentally walk in, as you can fake them easily. Do not lock guns behind just a fingerprint. It's way more secure to have a trusty phone app with an nfc app on it, that still requires a code or fingerprint on the phone. For this purpose however it is good. Also: make sure you can open the door with an override somehow if you lock yourself in and get unwell (like from soldering fumes, or an accidental fire).
Drill a hole through the wall into the lab and take the power from there. That way its neat on the outside. I will also say you are a very good looking guy too.
😀😀" i was told that they look unappealing, i should come up with another solution" I feel you... it's hard to guess who made that statement. Every project outside of my office is heavily inspected for cable management and some had to be rebuild. I hope you'll find a good solution. PS nice video, I am currently testing stuff with RFID/NFC for kind of a similar approach to lock a closet.
Put a hole through the outside handle. Put the sensor withim thay knob and feed the power wires through to the crack in the door frame. Wires will be hidden, the sensor will look nice and itll be more convinient having the sensor in the handle, renoving the need for the extra box on the side
The reason commercial solutions are battery powered is that if power goes out, you dont have a way to get in since it has no emergency override or something like that. What I would do is make it battery powered, have the micro controller in deep sleep and wake it up whenever the scanner reads a fingerprint. Then, if the fingerprint is the right one, a servomotor turns to temporarily move the mechanism and open the door. After 10 or 15 seconds it resets and thats it!
Nice work, my father used the same system nearly 30 years ago too, so you dont need a key if the entrance door falls into the lock while being outside in the garden. He used a keypad instead of a fingerprint sensor, but the principle is the same :) As people have pointed out, electronics always on the inside to make it temper proof :)
![[TF2] The Russian Bear Trap](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YFNSwz2_rOA/mqdefault.jpg)
for the power just drill a hole through the back of the box into the shop and then you can use whatever method you want to connect it.
Yea
@@FlammableElectronics Not a bad plan. But inside the lab the next outlet is even further away. Hmmm I will see.
I was thinking the same, and in your lab the cable duct isn't ugly. Thats not a place for visitors or something. Or use an industrial looking duct so its a feature.
Btw congrats with your newborn!
@@greatscottlab Isn't there a light-switch inside next to the door, right behind your enclosure? You could just tap off of there.
Also, what about the situation, where there is no main power in the house.. You can't get in at all.
You might consider making the external handle one that has a key for an override. That way if there is ever a failure of the electronic lock (or a power failure), you can still get in your office.
True👍
Nah he could just pop the cover off and pull the power over directly to the lock - just like in the movies.
The key can open the door nope ?
When your kid get some knowledge about electronics then you can just put handle back. Btw amazing video like all !
I would use an electromagnet designed specifically for low security control access applications. If there is a power failure it releases the door, you don't need a backup method to open it
Also, for anyone wanting to DIY your own security door, mount your electronics on the INSIDE of the secure room. The only thing that should be outside is the reader. Otherwise someone can open up the electronics and bypass the security features. (LPL has a few videos showcasing this)
I’m surprised I didn’t see more comments about it. It was my first thought when I realized the electronics were on the outside 😅
Definitely true. But for child security. This is definitely good enough.
I think for a lock that is meant to keep a child out it's good enough. By the point the child is able to mess around in there and bridge the lock open you have no need for it anymore anyways
Babies pull on things, and door handles get pulled down by them
Thought the same and this leaves some audience with false sense of security if the feel the need to "secure" what ever room the want.
You were told that’s it was unappealing huh? 😂 happens to me too sometimes. Awesome project as usual!
haha no matter if its the wife, mother or a significant other there is always resistance ! 😁
Thanks ;-)
that was such a big mood. same reason i'm not allowed to build anything for the house unless i make it pretty. struggles of living with a designer. on the upside, it pushes my crafting skills a bit.
It is.
He seems to forgot to take premmision from upper managment (aka wife approval 😀)
As someone who also has a locked area (my attic access and server closet) with a fingerprint reader, I would suggest adding a couple more of your finger prints from other finger. I cannot count the times I locked myself out because I cut/burned my finger, it was dirty, etc. I finally added a couple other fingers.
Also you should put a hole through the wall and plug it in from inside your shop area. I assume the significant other doesn't care so much about what goes on in that room. If that is not an option either you can get flat ribbon speaker wire that you can barely see once applied on the wall and painted over. You would need to do you AC-DC conversion before your box, but you could throw that under that table, or put it in the wall behind a blanking plate.
Congrats on the baby! He/she going to have a very cool dad!
Thank you and thanks for your great input. Love the ideas.
@@greatscottlab Also get your SO's fingerprint on there too, you really don't want to be hurt and them unable to unlock the door.
@@greatscottlab You could also replace the lock with the kind that retracts the latch when the key is turned past the open state.
That is exactly what I was going to add as a comment, when finished watching the entire video.
Just an FYI about your how to power something on the door side of things. There are hinges called electrified hinges, they are used for hotels and such where the readers need continuous power on the door. You can use a drill and drill a small hole from one side to the other or as some doors do it around the permitter. Still love your implementation, and yes I wish these are more common.
What? Never knew about them. Will check them out :-) Thanks.
Thanks for the info!
Wow. Never knew about those. But I'm pretty sure I saw something like SOSS invisible hinge.
@@greatscottlab Never tested it but I feel any regular metalic hinge can become electrified with easy and minimal modifications - add 2 holes for connections, 1 on fix part, 1 on rotating part - then it's "only" wiring. As long as using 2 distinct hinges for each polarity and the frame nor the door aren't metal. Of course limited to low voltage below 24v.
@@vincentdesjardins1354Electrified hinges are essentially just a hinge with integrated slip-rings. There's an easier method of the wiring is in a protected space (ie on the lab side of the door), which is really just a pair of terminal blocks with a coiled cord between them. These were used before electrified door hinges existed or electronic glass break detectors. There would be an adhesive backed foil tape applied to the door glass and the coiled cord would bring the circuit from the door to the door frame where it could be permanently wired into the business's burglar alarm system.
For future reference, the electromagnet piece, it's called an Electronic Strike Plate, which helps with locating versions for both inner and external doors. Generally though, you're not gonna find many that fit within existing strike plate designs, simply because the latch does have to allow the pin to pass through where the strike plate is (and thus through part of the wall).
Congratulations. May your child be blessed with all the electronic knowledge that you have.
Hope so!
Congrats as well!
I taught my son to solder at around 7 years and can now offload doing all the SOIC parts to him 😊
Congrats, just be careful how quick you teach the kiddo, or that lock will be hot-wired in no time!
You should add a backup battery to the fingerprint box that can power it for at least a day straight, so if the power goes out you still can access the room.
Or add a way for the keyhole to activate a mechanical bypass to get access to the room when the fingerprint reader isn't working for whatever reason.
True. Need to add something like this.
@@greatscottlab I noticed you still have a key hole. On some locks when rotating the key past the normal unlock position, it moves the position of the upper tab (I forget what it's called) so the door can be opened without using the door handle.
On most doors (at least where I live) turning the key towards the open position when the door is already unlocked will retract the latch just as if you pressed the handle. With that, you could still open the door with a key regardless of the electronics (the same way you can open it with the handle from the inside).
he has a box with all logic out the defending area. He can just power it via any 10-14V battery because there is a simple solenoind
The only real way to fix the issue is to have the lock be actively powered, so if the power goes out the doors default to open.@@greatscottlab
"Wife approved" is the most glorious label in our home. 😂
Ps. Congrats to the new family addition.
Thanks :-)
True 😂😂😂😂
Congratulations with your new born! I had the exact same issue. My "lab" (mancave) is not the safest place. But I told my daughter what she can and cannot touch, and she listens very well (so far). I also installed a normal manual lock to the door. ;)
I had the same problem the fix was that i used an Ikea suction cup to hang the key to the dor - less fancy still usefull
CONGRATULATIONS on your new baby!
Congratulations on having a baby!
Thank you so much. It certainly is a wild journey ;-)
personally id set the led ring to blue as soon as the sensor is touched and reading, and then display either a solid green as it's approved, or a flashing red as it's ejected to make it feel a little more responsive :)
Exactly. No button (or website) is ever permitted to take more than 0.1 seconds to react to a push in a noticeable way, even if the actual function takes longer to do!
Hi Scott,
So glad you chose a solenoid striker. However, as other commenters have noted, you need to do one or two modifications for safety. When using this type of access mechanism, you always need a mechanical override. The easiest solution is to configure the latch with a mechanical lock. Normally this is kept locked and the striker is used to enable access. But when there is a failure the door can still be unlocked and unlatched as normal. You should be able to find a "privacy" version of the same latch handle, or one with a lock. You can then ignore the lock below. Alternatively, if the bolt on the lock can be shortened to work with the solenoid striker, then you can swap which ones use the solenoid striker and just leave the deadbolt locked normally.
Finally, a couple security and safety fixes for the sensor/controller. You can add a battery backup as others have suggested, or you can provide a auxiliary power input. This will not be as secure, as someone could destructively apply over voltage from the outside, but I don't think that's in your threat model. So maybe it's a good solution, just put a barrel jack.
The other thing is to move the controller inside the door. You want the controller inaccessible, and also maybe the wiring ducts will be less offensive if they are inside your studio and not in the hallway.
Cool project! Excited for phase 2!
Exactly the things that I wanted to suggest! Last comment will probably help with “wife” acceptance.
Congratulations on the addition to the family! Speaking from experience, kids are the most complex project you can work on. 😊
Go through the wall into the shop side. You could also move the controller in there and extend the sensor wire to only have that component on the entry side. Much cleaner install that way imo
You could also do an electromagnet at the top of the door if the latch isn't an option. You just give it main's voltage attached to a normally-closed relay. It's just a matter of triggering the relay to break the circuit and turn off the magnet. The best part is that if the power goes out, you can just use the doorhandle as normal. I believe here in Florida, USA these are required for any security door that's blocking an emergency exit. The office I work at has one of these to access a stairwell. The lock can be bypassed by holding the door knob open for 30 seconds, but doing so triggers an alarm. Similar to what you see at grocery stores.
Thanks for the info. Good to know.
@@greatscottlab You can look those up by searching "access control lock", only problem is they have constant power draw.
You can also install a motion sensor on the inside to unlock it although that likely would get falsely triggered in a home.
Take off the door frame and the skirting board and chase out a channel on the back, rub the cable along is that completely concealed, you also then cut a small channel into the plaster board, and connect it behind the outlet, meaning you get to keep both outlets for use and the door is always powered.
Oh my goodness, I do not think that I knew you were expecting to become a father. Congratulations! It is the *very greatest* project.
Might be worth thinking about adding protective earth to the button metall hull. As its impropable but not impossible to get a connection in this case to L or N. Could do it with a metal sheet or pcb on the inside to which the button screws against.
IMO the best way to power this would be to just put a new cable in the wall, then put plaster and paint over it, if this lock system is a permanent solution. Otherwise, You could just drill a hole through the wall behind the box, and power it from the lab's side
congratulations, a mini great scott, that's awesome
Thanks 👍
I use the same type of circuit to unlock and start my bike it was a lockdown project works like a charm and have been using the old fingerprint sensor will upgrade to the new one soon
As soon as the kid grows up enough to gain some knowledge about electronics, they will open the cover and manually power the lock.
By that time the same kid will know not to insert screws into wall sockets or to lick power supplies.
So the whole lock thing will be overkill anyway.
I want to see that. I will turn off mains power before that though.
I think much better solution would be to place the electronic lock in the lower hole. That way the door could be "closed" all the time and in case of power outage you could unlock it manually with a key.
My youngest just turned two. Everything is like upgrading security and subjecting it to pen testing. Children are great pen testers.
I was SO excited to see this video, and here's why.
For quite some time now I've been designing garage doors that open upwards (like a doggy door) with a hydraulic ram, there will be two, however I still want to be able to walk in and out without needing to open the entire bay. So one of the garage doors will have a person door and that is what I'm here to talk about.
I basically had the same idea as you for security, fingerprint. But to hold the door closed I remembered something I've seen long long time ago, magnetic locks, so electro mag on one side and receiver or whatever it's called on the other, when powered you will NOT move the door but when un powered it will move freely, so I just need to get the proper pieces to operate the magnets and code a raspberry pi to turn the magnet off when I scan my finger or tell it over software to turn off. But it will also have a backup normal lock that I typically won't keep locked in case power goes out. And just for further background, my garage runs pretty much solely on solar power and batteries so I'm running it all off DC, the PC, cameras, hydraulics and security, so if its like winter and can barely charge my batteries I can still get in the garage when it's powered off.
I completely failed at proper grammar in this, got way too excited to think properly and just spat out a super condensed version sorry about that.
But I would recommend looking into the electromagnetic locks because when un powered they're off which means if you ever experience technical difficulties, just cut power and you can get in.
Yes, I'm now realizing I could've just said that Instead of my huge tangent, sorry about that too lol
For the door mounted locks, you could theoretically make some system with springs or pogo pins that would make contact when the door is closed, and keep the battery topped up that way. But it would add a lot of complication, and you would still have to power it just like the solution in the video
Or just use a cable at the hinges with holes.
Many doors are hollow anyways
I thought about flexible cable carry like spring shield or something, but this idea may have a place.
They make hinges that can pass signals or low-voltage power through them. But they are not cheap.
@@rancidbeef582just recycle some hinges from an old laptop
Laptop hinges are designed to do this, there is a small channel where you can pass a display/power cable
Maybe drill a hole through the wall to your lab to power it from the other side
that's obviously the way to keep the mess inside his man-cave (lab)
Congratulations on your newborn. Wish you and your family the best.
Congratulations on the baby! I'm sure you'll be a Great Dad.
I would have done it a bit different.
Ideally I would have used the electronic lock on the locking part of the lock, and always keep the door locked. Some modification is probably needed to the locking bolt so it won't stick out too much, but that way there is a solid backup if the electronics for some reason fails.
The second thing would have been to power the lock from inside the room, and use a fail safe instead of fail secure lock. That way it would be possible to just trip the HPFI and then gain access to the room in case of electronics failure.
Just make a video. We will watch it once you post it here.
Can't wait to see your video!
Woman is the master in the house.
Happy wife happy life ;-)
Look up "Flinke Klinke". That might get approval.
😂 true....💯
Just started watching this video. My first thought on how to keep the door closed would be with a magnet.
When energized you would not be able to open the door. Easy installation of a iron plate to the door and an electrical magnet on the door post.
Oh and btw, the grubscrew for securing the doorhandel to the shaft will be flush if you position the shaft so that the grubscrew will sink into the groove in the shaft. That will stop you hurting your hand.
You absolutely can build this into the door without batteries. Contact pads in the door jamb so when you close the door is closes the electrical circuit and powers the device. You can make them small and recessed to make them safe (like regular plugs have the contacts hidden from accidental touch).
I know security is not your primary goal, but you generally don't want to put the brains of the door unlock system on the side that your wanting to have people locked out.
It's horribly common. But on the other hand, often you're not guarding against people who really want entry.
While I love your videos and I learn new things every time, this could have been done with a ASSA ABLOY Code Handle 8811. The batteries last FOREVER in them.
Congrats on the addition to the Great Scott family! Could you run the conduit on the inside of your shop and connect the low voltage wires through the back? That would look clean from outside, which is probably what matters most.
Another great video!
About babies, I still remember that day when, coming home after job, I find out, that my daughter peeled off all roll with smd resistors at supervision by shes mom.. 😂
About indoor brackets from industrial segment - You can get them for indoors too, but, usually, they come as an kit with release magnet and bracket..
For powering - just drill through wall and add from inside battery backup system from industrial or commercial door alarm (access control) systems.. Thats means - power supply, battery charging module (usually come in one box) and deep discharge SLA battery.. 😉 Works every time for years..
There are solutions to power from outlet lock mounted in door leaf, they are concealed door loops which allows run cables hidden between door and frame or pin connectors when there is no need to have power supply in open position and capable to supply up tp 30v dc 3A, but you need to do milling in frame and leaf to mount it plus drilling through leaf for cable, so a bit more work and costs, but gives more options. For home use and without requirements regarding the level of security and excluding fire protection issues of such access control there is few more solutions.
There are 2 ways you can make it appealing, you can cut a channel so that it goes directly UP from the security door, around the ceiling cavity, and down to the nearest 240v outlet, or if there's not much insulation behind you can drill back into the wall cavity, up and over.
Final product will have wife approval factor of 10 and local laws approval of 10 because it's using the standard up and over. I know it feels like a waste of material, but it's a lot more safer, it takes the guess work out of horizontal when trying to put screws in for fixtures such as pictures and shelves.
I do like this project and it would be a fantastic thing, so glad you engineered an exit that requires no electricity.
I would recommend a solenoid deadbolt that mounts in the frame, and wiring from the inside of the shop. Just requires putting a cavity in the door. A backup battery or a manual turn key would prevent issues if power fails and you need to get into the shop.
Alternatively, you could use a magnet and frame mounted electromagnet. Easy to bypass, but probably not for a small child.
9:57 perhaps drill through the wall into the office to run the power cables to
They do exist, just the naming is tricky if you haven't worked with building security systems. They are called an 'Electronic Door Strike' (in Australia at least), and fully replace the strike plate. Clones can be had for < $100, and often include door open/closed/latched/unlatched sensors in the wiring, can be configured to power to lock, or power to unlock. Keeps the door fire safe with the appropriate handle (locked from the locked side, exit is always 'free egress'). They cheaper strikes, as you've found are a bit of a pain, and they also generally not as robust. It's worth spending a little more for the full strike replacement, but the clones are more than robust enough for home use.
Congratulations on your promotion to father. I hope your little one carries on your great work.
Wishing you many more...
To transfer energy to door you could charge one hinge positively and other one negatively.
You can run a simple cable chase at the top of the door near the hinge. This easily supplies mains power to the door.
Wow seeing you having a little new family member is such a weird feeling. I follow your Channel for a long time and this reminds me of the time that just flied by. But I wish you and your family only the best!
3:03 You can actually charge the battery with the door closed. Four conductors can be placed on the face plate and strike plate part of the door lock. Two conductors will be attached to the face plate part. The other two conductors will be attached to the strike plate part. When the door is closed, the circuit closes and charges the battery. When the door is opened, the battery feeds the circuit.
Congrats on the newborn! My best ongoing "project". Have fun and learn something new every day
You can drill a small hole inside your finderbox to get through the other side of your makerspace,then install an outlet there,its convinient because you can mount an outlet and route everything with electric pipes so its not unappealing,plus is safety proof cause its inside the makerspace which you already dont want anyone to go in.
Congratulations on the addition of the new member to the family.
You can drill a hole behind the electronics-box into your Lab and get the power from there 😉
"I was told that they look unappealing" I hear that euphemism about my projects all the time haha
We have a professional electric doorhandle thingy from Simens at work, and everyone hates it. Battery failing without warning, overcomplicated opening mechnism using servos, mechanical instability unreliable service. Using your sytem replacing the fingerprint reader with an rfid-chip and many problems would be easely avoidable. So great project.
I think what I would have done is recessed just the fingerprint button into the door frame and the electronics I would have hidden inside the plasterboard wall.
If I need access to the electronics I can fit a ready made plastic accessory panel from the inside. I would have also tapped the socket and run a cable through the wall for the connection via a spur.
It would have been a very clean install.
This is my opinion.
Congratulations on your newborn baby Mr Scott. 😍😍😍😍😍😍
Thank you! 🤗
The same thing I build some years ago;) I also had to drill and file on the door. I used an rfid reader and writer with an Esp32 and a custom circuit with and 24v AC Transformator to alternate the door opener. Special to make the door summing noise, to know the exact moment where a user can open the door. I created a webinterface to managed multiple users and log access times.
Currently I planning to change the Transformator with an H-bridge to make the device smaller.
If you’re interested, I can send you some pictures. 😅
Congrats on your beautiful new family!❤
Put the power and control unit into the lab, leaving only the reader on the outside, that will make it all look much neater, and more secure
What you do is take your oscillating cut tool and cut the exact same sized home in the wall insert your eletronics on the back side of the dry wall cutout and also cutout a circle in the rectangle you cut to insert the thumb sensor and then plut the dry way back and then patch it sand it and repaint it and it will be flush on the wall without that box sticking out of the wall
in this design, I feel like if someone had to really break in, they could easily do that by removing the housing for the locking system and giving it power which defeats its whole purpose. In my opinion, the mechanics and wires should be inside the room and only the fingerprint sensor should be outside.
Yeah, i was about to say that only the fingerprint sensor should be external, but not the circuit. I mean, it's just a plastic box he used so somone could cut it open l, apply voltage to the lock and open. So, better hide the electronics
@@photonik-luminescence True
Congratulations on the DIY mini GreatScott! GreatScott! !
Great video, and I love how you added the POP sound when the door opens, lets everyone know someone is entering :>)
In theory you could run the power cables through the doorframe/siding but I'd imagine that task to be very difficult (and lease ending)
To be honhest, if it's just a small child you're trying to keep out, a knob will do the trick. They lack the grip strength to operate a round door knob. More important will be a spring door closer to make sure you don't leave the door open.
I've found knobs to be fairly uncommon in Europe. I'm not sure if that's building regulations but there's places in the US (or maybe it's Canada) where they're no longer code on new construction. It's not just children that have problems with them. In actual fact, I don't even have problems with them but I 3D printed an add-on handle so I could open a door with my hands full.
@@chaos.corner Plenty for sale in the UK, there's a lot of older housing stock and people like to replace old stuff with something very similar (an anodised aluminium or satin chrome handle doesn't sit well on a Victorian panel door in a tiled hallway). I've fitted oval style handles on the last couple of restorations I've done, a compromise between old style and ease of operation.
Congratulations on your newborn! For power you can drill thru the wall and inside your lab and then you can make a video on how to make a small power backup so you still can use get inside when the power is out
Mount the finger print scanner in the middle of the door knob. Draw power through some contacts on the strike plate or the lock.
Congratulations on the new family member!
Congrats to the effort you put in every project. The solution you make has its drawbacks dow. Its required to remove standart handle from one of the door sides. Much easier solution is to put dropbolt/deadbolt type lock below standart as is not need to remove anything from original solution and will be less digging and grinding. There is also surface mount dropbolts and magnets. Of course this need constant power supply but is fail safe and fire safe. Also AMS voltage regulator on the NANO takes 12v anyday. Sometimes simple project like this takes time and money and become not that simple as just buying cheap chineese solution with all in one package. Big fan of you!
You could try to get the electrical power from inside your office room, across the wall. Another concern. If for some reason there is no power in the house, you can't get into your room. However, i love the idea of electrical lock with personal identification.
Have you considered a Maglock? These are electromagnets you install on the top of the door and frame that while energized the door remains locked no matter the door handle state. Much easier to install too.
Awesome project! I’m glad you addressed the handle because I was worried you would get locked inside 😂
Hey Scott, nice job.
You could also mount the latch on door frame, instead of mounting it on the door itself.
This is the lock picking lawyer and for today we have great Scots laboratory with fingerprint reader.
Congrats! A new chapter awaits you 🎉.
I hope to see you making toys for your kid
Amazing 😊. Wishing all the best for the newborn 🎉
lol thanks for the toddlers-eye view... I'm imagining you crawling around trying to take that shot as best as you could... :P
"pointless because it looked unapealing" Love It !!!🤣
Nice video, regardless of someone saying the look is unappealing... I like it very much. Btw, with elektronic locks... always make sure there a backup system...
Many years ago I made a very ruggedized, rock solid lock... but eventually I had to break out the door.
Suggestion for the follow up video, could you go over what happens in case of fire? BTW, congratulations on the new kid!!
It's so refreshing seeing the European way of doing the mains outlets and the cable ducting here on RUclips that I do myself.
Well you can put a small solar panel with a charging circuit board to keep the battery always charged. Even if the light is dim, it will charge up the battery and make the manual recharge process less frequent
Congrats man! Our little bean just turned 1 recently.
Great project thank you, just some ideas here - Could you put the release on the lock instead of handle latch and leave it locked so the release will allow it to open and you will have a failsafe of the key? Also, to keep people happy on the aesthetics, have the control box on the inside with just the fingerprint reader on the outside? (Maybe a nice bezel for it but still sitting flush). Remote control too if you use an ESP!
just pop a small hole ( 6mm) behind the wall cover , and run the electrical in your office part
Oooo! That fingerprint reader is really nice!
Never forget accounting for the WAF!
huh, somewhat off topic, but I just realized we live under 300km apart :D
Eletrical power tapes, this will do the job like a charm!
Just taped to the wall, and than put some fresh paint over it. will look wai better than those tubes
Excellent. I immediately imagine LittleScott trying to break dad's safety lock to get into the lab :-)
This will happen sooner than you think ;-)
Always remember that fingerprint access is more about letting the good guy not accidentally walk in, as you can fake them easily. Do not lock guns behind just a fingerprint. It's way more secure to have a trusty phone app with an nfc app on it, that still requires a code or fingerprint on the phone.
For this purpose however it is good.
Also: make sure you can open the door with an override somehow if you lock yourself in and get unwell (like from soldering fumes, or an accidental fire).
Confratulations for your new baby🎉
I LOVE Pickled Cabbage. Thank You, Germany for that and also bringing us Great Scott!! ❤
Drill a hole through the wall into the lab and take the power from there. That way its neat on the outside. I will also say you are a very good looking guy too.
😀😀" i was told that they look unappealing, i should come up with another solution" I feel you... it's hard to guess who made that statement. Every project outside of my office is heavily inspected for cable management and some had to be rebuild. I hope you'll find a good solution. PS nice video, I am currently testing stuff with RFID/NFC for kind of a similar approach to lock a closet.
Ah!!! Mrs Great Scott! has spoken, welcome to the club
Put a hole through the outside handle. Put the sensor withim thay knob and feed the power wires through to the crack in the door frame. Wires will be hidden, the sensor will look nice and itll be more convinient having the sensor in the handle, renoving the need for the extra box on the side
The reason commercial solutions are battery powered is that if power goes out, you dont have a way to get in since it has no emergency override or something like that. What I would do is make it battery powered, have the micro controller in deep sleep and wake it up whenever the scanner reads a fingerprint. Then, if the fingerprint is the right one, a servomotor turns to temporarily move the mechanism and open the door. After 10 or 15 seconds it resets and thats it!
Nice work, my father used the same system nearly 30 years ago too, so you dont need a key if the entrance door falls into the lock while being outside in the garden. He used a keypad instead of a fingerprint sensor, but the principle is the same :)
As people have pointed out, electronics always on the inside to make it temper proof :)
NIce baby, dude! I love this project and work in security and can verify -- I've never seen a good residential answer to this problem