Thankyou Nelson. I love to share knowledge, we didn't have internet until I was like 16 then it was dial up and I didn't have the patience for it. information like this was a needle in a haystack I would have had to talk to 4 different people and call in favors I didn't know I had to figure something like this out 😆. I love that we can just ask eachother and get a video up. Thanks for watching Nelson. You got to see him ask and then the answer from, N.C to Maine, then to Illinois, and Ed out west, I find this to be so neat.
Thanks for this, I commented below, but my question is basically how to get independent control of the 3 point rams in this situation. It looks like the way you have it plumbed you would have the same problem I have now on my d17, which is that the 3 point arms go up all the way before I get power to something else that's attached to the remote. Maybe I'm seeing it wrong. Is it possible to remove the power in line to the 3 point and connect that to the spool in, and then use one of the spools to control the 3 point arms? Basically everything goes through the spool and the return to sump for the 3 point would also get routed through the spool? --- update: it actually looks to me like you have the return line going through the spool, but the power to line goes to that tee and it should feed both the spool and the 3 point arms at the same time. couldn't you just take that tee out and connect the power to line directly to the spool and then connect a line from one of the valves to the power in for the 3 point where the tee used to be? that way you'd have independent control of the 3 point arms and whatever other implements you connect to the other two valves.
So the only output that doesn't work independently from the lift arms, with this set up, is the single acting one. It's set up like this for a plow with a rear guide wheel. The adjuster under the single connector controls how fast and what lifts 1st out of the 2 like a wd45. So the spool runs the lift arms and the single acting off of one spool then the other 2 double acting off of the other 2 spools that are completely independent. If that makes any sense lol. The lever on the dash is just too turn hydraulics on and off at this point.
@@TimothyFluegel Ok, I see, thanks for your reply. Can you tell me please how you can control which of the two between the 3 point arms and the single acting remote lifts first? If you turn the adjuster all the way clockwise or counterclockwise it will then make one or the other lift first?
@@TimothyFluegel thanks, and I guess this wouldn't work if you cut out the spool valve and tried to put a selector valve instead right? If I disconnected the power to the 3 point and connected it to a selector valve and then plumbed one of the outs from the selector back to the 3 point and the other I could use for a front loader, I'd continue to use the lever from the dash but then I'd get an option to use the loader independently and I could just trap some oil in the loader rams to keep the loader off the ground while I switched over to using the 3 point. you think that would work? sorry to bother you, but I can't seem to find anyone with experience on these to help. really appreciate your help
Also do you think there’s a a way on my d17 to run a loader with a Separate loader valve bank instead of using the tractors but the way people are telling to do it plumb the pressure line from the pump into the loaders valve bank then into the tractors valve bank but I really don’t want to do it that way
I have an extra 3 spoil valve and the transport valve for a D19 that I had all rebuilt. I had planned on using it on my series 3 D17 but a guy kept bugging me to sell it and he finally offered me way more than it was worth so I sold it and my series 2. I’ll probably regret selling them but I guess now I can try to find a series 4 gas and diesel to replace them
Sounds lie you'll only regret it until your driving your new to you series IV 😆.. I'm curious what the spool for the 19 is worth I'm probably going to put the extra one I have for sale.
I paid $400 for my extra one and then paid $150 to have it all rebuilt so I could use it on my 17 but never got around to it. Too many projects and not enough spare time. There should really be a law against work interfering with a guys hobbies
You probably won't see this comment but to hook that spool up and everything do you need a hydraulic pump that runs off of the crank of the motor, or can you just use the hydraulic pump that is in the rear end of the tractor? I have a series 2 d 17 and I am hoping to put double acting hydraulics on it and I don't have a pump that runs off of the crank, will I need one or can I do it without? All I trying to do is have one double acting remote to use a 10 foot wheel disk behind it and I still want to be able to use my three point to brush hog. If you could help me along this process that would be great!
@@TimothyFluegel I think a lot of the people on Facebook act like they know it the best but really people just apparently want other people to do more work for know reason. Thanks for your help, I love watching your videos they are very informational.
@@ryanhawthorne7893 o yes there is a reason I don't get on the facebook forums and help people out, I like to help out don't get me wrong but, I don't like arguing with random people about the answers I give 🤦♂️🤣. Like you said most people just want to feel important 🤣, I hope you get it figured out. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@TimothyFluegel Hi, thanks for this. I don't see how the lift arms work independently from the spool here like Tanner is asking. Since the power line is tee'd into the lift arms and the spool, doesn't oil go to the lift arms at the same time as it goes to the spool when you push the lever up by the steering wheel to "turn on" the hydraulics? I've got a D17 and I can't figure this out. I think I need to put a selector valve in line between the spool and the lift arms don't I?
Hmm.. from what you said about the baby toy baler you were drooling over... I'm not sure if you can figure it out 🤔 Seems to me, you said no one in Maine was talented enough to make it work...😂🤣😂🤣😂😂🤣😂🤣 Just had to flick you 💩👍😎
@@mcleanfarmsryan3897 lol it is simple with the right diagram lol but not having seen one before it can be a bitch to say the least lol. If you read Luke's comment he explains how to get around the valve on the back I knew there had to be a way to do it and so make the lift arms work.
That's what makes you who you are Tim! Always helping others!! Love it, keep up the awesome work!! Hope ryan gets it fixed like he needs to!
Thankyou Nelson. I love to share knowledge, we didn't have internet until I was like 16 then it was dial up and I didn't have the patience for it. information like this was a needle in a haystack I would have had to talk to 4 different people and call in favors I didn't know I had to figure something like this out 😆. I love that we can just ask eachother and get a video up. Thanks for watching Nelson. You got to see him ask and then the answer from, N.C to Maine, then to Illinois, and Ed out west, I find this to be so neat.
@@TimothyFluegel That it sure is my friend amazing how easily word travels, and the circle of friends and good people here are amazing!!!
@@Pennies_on_the_dollar you got that right my friend.
Don’t neccesarily need to do that but very informational and good to know in case I ever get in that situation. Great video!
Thankyou. You never know you might upgrade in color some day 😆 jk... thankyou for watching.
@@TimothyFluegel 😂 my buddy has an allis for sale and I would like to buy it, but I’m about to buy a skid steer I’m splitting with my dad😂
@@countrysidecowboy4464 😆 who good luck the skid steer is pretty awesome to have too
Thanks for this, I commented below, but my question is basically how to get independent control of the 3 point rams in this situation. It looks like the way you have it plumbed you would have the same problem I have now on my d17, which is that the 3 point arms go up all the way before I get power to something else that's attached to the remote. Maybe I'm seeing it wrong. Is it possible to remove the power in line to the 3 point and connect that to the spool in, and then use one of the spools to control the 3 point arms? Basically everything goes through the spool and the return to sump for the 3 point would also get routed through the spool? --- update: it actually looks to me like you have the return line going through the spool, but the power to line goes to that tee and it should feed both the spool and the 3 point arms at the same time. couldn't you just take that tee out and connect the power to line directly to the spool and then connect a line from one of the valves to the power in for the 3 point where the tee used to be? that way you'd have independent control of the 3 point arms and whatever other implements you connect to the other two valves.
So the only output that doesn't work independently from the lift arms, with this set up, is the single acting one. It's set up like this for a plow with a rear guide wheel. The adjuster under the single connector controls how fast and what lifts 1st out of the 2 like a wd45. So the spool runs the lift arms and the single acting off of one spool then the other 2 double acting off of the other 2 spools that are completely independent. If that makes any sense lol. The lever on the dash is just too turn hydraulics on and off at this point.
@@TimothyFluegel Ok, I see, thanks for your reply. Can you tell me please how you can control which of the two between the 3 point arms and the single acting remote lifts first? If you turn the adjuster all the way clockwise or counterclockwise it will then make one or the other lift first?
Yes sir, you are correct. Now I can't remember off the top of my head witch way to turn it. 🙃 just gotta experiment I suppose lol
@@TimothyFluegel thanks, and I guess this wouldn't work if you cut out the spool valve and tried to put a selector valve instead right? If I disconnected the power to the 3 point and connected it to a selector valve and then plumbed one of the outs from the selector back to the 3 point and the other I could use for a front loader, I'd continue to use the lever from the dash but then I'd get an option to use the loader independently and I could just trap some oil in the loader rams to keep the loader off the ground while I switched over to using the 3 point. you think that would work? sorry to bother you, but I can't seem to find anyone with experience on these to help. really appreciate your help
Put the P port from the pump, work ports to the remotes and return to the reservoir or reared
You could get away with that... as long as ya put a T at the original valve he would still have lift arms. 👍👍 over thinking a little I was 😆
@@TimothyFluegel LOL 🤣😂😎
Good explanation
Thankyou
Also do you think there’s a a way on my d17 to run a loader with a Separate loader valve bank instead of using the tractors but the way people are telling to do it plumb the pressure line from the pump into the loaders valve bank then into the tractors valve bank but I really don’t want to do it that way
I have an extra 3 spoil valve and the transport valve for a D19 that I had all rebuilt. I had planned on using it on my series 3 D17 but a guy kept bugging me to sell it and he finally offered me way more than it was worth so I sold it and my series 2. I’ll probably regret selling them but I guess now I can try to find a series 4 gas and diesel to replace them
Sounds lie you'll only regret it until your driving your new to you series IV 😆.. I'm curious what the spool for the 19 is worth I'm probably going to put the extra one I have for sale.
I paid $400 for my extra one and then paid $150 to have it all rebuilt so I could use it on my 17 but never got around to it. Too many projects and not enough spare time. There should really be a law against work interfering with a guys hobbies
You probably won't see this comment but to hook that spool up and everything do you need a hydraulic pump that runs off of the crank of the motor, or can you just use the hydraulic pump that is in the rear end of the tractor? I have a series 2 d 17 and I am hoping to put double acting hydraulics on it and I don't have a pump that runs off of the crank, will I need one or can I do it without? All I trying to do is have one double acting remote to use a 10 foot wheel disk behind it and I still want to be able to use my three point to brush hog. If you could help me along this process that would be great!
You can use the pump that is in your tractor already. This shows how to run the lines. Don't over think it is my best piece of advice lol
@@TimothyFluegel Thanks!
@@TimothyFluegel I think a lot of the people on Facebook act like they know it the best but really people just apparently want other people to do more work for know reason. Thanks for your help, I love watching your videos they are very informational.
@@ryanhawthorne7893 o yes there is a reason I don't get on the facebook forums and help people out, I like to help out don't get me wrong but, I don't like arguing with random people about the answers I give 🤦♂️🤣. Like you said most people just want to feel important 🤣, I hope you get it figured out. Let me know if you have any other questions.
If I put this on my d15 will the remotes operate independently of the lift arms? I want to use my new rowse mower on the tractor.
Yes everything with have is own independent spool as long as you install enough spools. The possibilities are endless really.
@@TimothyFluegel Hi, thanks for this. I don't see how the lift arms work independently from the spool here like Tanner is asking. Since the power line is tee'd into the lift arms and the spool, doesn't oil go to the lift arms at the same time as it goes to the spool when you push the lever up by the steering wheel to "turn on" the hydraulics? I've got a D17 and I can't figure this out. I think I need to put a selector valve in line between the spool and the lift arms don't I?
Dang made it first thanks for the video alright that’s a bit clearer now
Hmm.. from what you said about the baby toy baler you were drooling over... I'm not sure if you can figure it out 🤔
Seems to me, you said no one in Maine was talented enough to make it work...😂🤣😂🤣😂😂🤣😂🤣
Just had to flick you 💩👍😎
@@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin 😂😂🤣🤣🤣 I mean so are but 95% of use aren’t bright and I am one of them
@@mcleanfarmsryan3897 lol👍😎😂🤣
@@mcleanfarmsryan3897 lol it is simple with the right diagram lol but not having seen one before it can be a bitch to say the least lol. If you read Luke's comment he explains how to get around the valve on the back I knew there had to be a way to do it and so make the lift arms work.